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wealthypioneers · 2 years

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BLACK WALNUT TREE, Shade Tree, Nut Tree, Valuable Lumber Tree Rooted Large Size Bareroot Live Plant 12"+ , Organic, non-Gmo Black Walnut Strong Rooted Large Size Plant THE PLANT WILL BE DUG UP AFTER PAYMENT TO GET YOU THE FRESHEST PLANT AND GIVE THE PLANT A BETTER CHANCE. The plant may trim short during the shipping due to being very tall for the full growing season and better survive The bare root may trim the leave to better survive during shipping, please put it in a pot or ground immediately. Water throughout and avoid direct sunlight covering with paper or cloth in the first month. if the plant is very stressed during the shipping, remove the plastic wrap and put it in water overnight Whether for Taste or Timber, Black Walnut Trees have it all Can't decide between a tree known for its fine wood and a fruit-bearing tree with a healthy harvest? The Black Walnut will give you all that and more. A wide-branched tree reaching heights between 70 and 150 feet, the Black Walnut does well in open fields, on sloped land, and a diversity of planting sites so long as the soil is well-drained and nutrient-dense. The beautiful dark brown color of its bark makes black walnut wood the most sought-after wood in the world. The tree's nickname, 'American Walnut' is no fluke. Our forefathers adorned their homes, crafted barns and built fences with wood made from the black walnut. The leaflets, as large as some tree's leaves, are dwarfed by the leaves themselves, which can grow up to a mammoth two feet long. And let's not forget the nut. The thick, black husk that gives the tree its name serves as ample protection for a round, savory fruit packed with flavor. The tree yields a nut so rich and delicious, it can be enjoyed right out of the shell, baked in desserts or crushed and topped on your favorite ice cream. With an abundant autumn harvest, a single tree can produce hundreds of nuts in just one season. Black Walnut Trees are self-fertile. You will get fruit with only one plant. However, adding an additional Black Walnut Tree will drastically increase the size of your crop. Count: 1 Name: Black Walnut tree or American Walnut Botanicl Name: Juglans nigra Tree: 3 + years plant with a strong root, bareroot Disease resistant Self-pollinating. Zones 5-10 100% Open Pollinated 100% Heirloom 100% Non-Hybrid 100% Non-GMO Name: Black Walnut Other Names: walnut tree, Juglans nigra Grow Zone: 4 to 9 Growth Speed: Medium Light Requirements: Full Sun To Partial Shade Average Full Grown Height: 50’ to 75’ Average Full Grown Width: 50’ to 75’ Deciduous (loses Leaves) Or Evergreen (Holds Foilage All Year): Deciduous Yields a ripened nut crop in early to mid-autumn. The fruit consists of three layers: a green, fleshy husk; a black inner shell that is hard, thick and corrugated; and the kernel, which is oily and sweet. Begins to bear nuts in 12–15 years. Is prized in the woodworking world for its handsome grain. Features pinnately compound, alternate leaves that are 12–24" in length and consist of 15–23 dark green leaflets that are 2–5" long. The leaflets are finely toothed. Is self-fertile but requires wind for pollination. Plant more than one tree to ensure a better crop. Grows in a rounded shape. Develops a deep taproot, making it difficult to transplant. Can be toxic to certain trees and plants--such as serviceberries, chestnuts, pines, arborvitae, apples, cherries, tomatoes, potatoes, peas, peppers, cabbages, alfalfa, blueberries, blackberries, azaleas, rhododendron, lilacs, hydrangeas, privets and plants in the heath family--if planted too close. Very well known for the delicious black walnuts. Some think of these trees as gold when they know their true value of them. Black walnuts are not exactly common and these trees can provide loads of black walnuts. Then in a few decades, they become nice size harvestable logs that can be worth big money. Win-win situation! These can also make nice shade trees. From October to March, We ship these plants in their dormant state. This means they will have no leaves. The stem will be strewn with buds for this coming spring's growth. If you live in a southern state, these will push new growth upon planting them as dormancy is dependent on hours of daylight and temperature. We are located in IL State and temperatures can differ drastically around the country. Handling and Planting "Bare-Root" Plants Roots, rhizomes, and other parts should feel heavy. If they feel light and dried out then the plant probably will not grow. The plant should sprout leaves in the same year it is planted. If you plant a bare root plant in the spring then it should have leaves by the summer. A plant that sits all season long won't magically sprout next year. Never let the roots dry out, be especially careful with this before you put the plants in the soil. Plant the bare-root plants before you see new growth starting. Trim off any dead or damaged roots and branches. Do not cut healthy roots shorter, even if it would make planting easier. Place the root portion of the plant in water and let it soak before you plant - several hours for woody plants; 10-20 minutes for perennials, asparagus, strawberries, etc. This good soaking will help the plant get a better start. Dig a hole that is wide enough and deep enough to put the plant in without bending or crowding the roots. Place the plant in the hole at the same level it was grown by the nursery. You can find this level where the roots start and the top shoots begin (the crown). Do not plant the plant deeper than this line. Spread the roots out evenly. Fill the hole with good soil while you are supporting the plant and keeping the roots spread (this works really well if you have three hands of your own or if you have someone to help you). Gently work the soil in and around the roots; do not pack the soil. Water the plant thoroughly, making sure that the soil around the roots is moist. Wait at least four weeks before you fertilize the plant! Young roots are easily damaged by too much fertilizer. Mulch the plants with quality bark, straw, or compost. Water the new plants until they get established - never let them dry out. Bare root trees will probably need to be staked for one year. When you put the stakes in, make sure the stakes are in the undisturbed area around the plant (not in the planting hole or the tree may fall over). The Black Walnut tree (Juglans nigra) or “American Walnut” is a moderately growing, cold tolerant nut producing tree that is not only sought for it’s bountiful walnut harvest but also the dark, beautiful brown wood. They are commonly planted in USDA growing zones 4-9 which means they can not only take the cold but a good amount of heat as well. The Black Walnut tree will mature to a gargantuan height of 70-150 feet tall and as much as 30-40 feet wide so make sure there are no obstructions for the tree to grow such as power lines. This full sun loving, moderate grower produces an abundant harvest in the fall around September to October, simply shake the branches and be ready for a showering of delicious walnuts! Seasonal Information: Generally it is best to plant your tree in the early fall, at least six weeks before the first frost in order to give the roots enough time to become established before winter sets in, or in the early spring six weeks after the final frost. However, you can plant your tree at any time of the year as long as your ground isn’t frozen. If you plant during the summer simply make sure that your trees get enough water to balance the heat. Location: When deciding where to plant your walnut trees remember that they will perform best in full sunlight. Although, they can tolerate partial shade as long as they have at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. Avoid planting these nutty trees in an area of your yard that’s prone to flooding, or that collects standing water. Also, account for your tree’s massive size. Give it enough space from structures so it can reach its mature width, and don’t plant them under power lines. Planting directions: 1) Once you have picked the perfect planting location dig a hole that’s just as deep as the root ball on your tree and three times as wide. 2) Take a pitch fork or shovel and scrape it along the sides of the hole to loosen the soil. Check for any debris like rocks, grass, or dirt clumps and remove them from the hole. 3) Next place your tree in the hole and make sure that it’s level with the surrounding ground and standing straight upwards at a 90 degree angle. 4) Slowly back fill the hole and gently tamp the soil down. 5) Once you’ve completed the planting process give your tree a long drink of water and mulch the area to conserve soil moisture. Watering: We often find that plants are harmed more by over watering than under watering. Keep this in mind when it comes to watering your walnut tree. Allow the soil to dry out two inches below the surface before watering your trees. When it’s time to give your trees more water hold a hose to their bases and count to 30 seconds in order to give them a slow, deep watering. Fertilization: In order to give your walnut trees a boost give them some well balanced fertilizer like formula 10-10-10 twice a year. Once in the early spring and again in the early fall. If your soil is lacking in nutrients you can fertilize up to once a month during the growing season. Always remember to wait until your tree has experienced one year of growth before fertilizing. Weed Control: Prevent weeds from growing under the canopy by spreading 3 to 4 inch thick layer of mulch around the base. The mulch won’t allow weeds to grow, and it will also help your soil retain moisture. If you spot some weeds that need removing you can remove them by taking a firm grasp on them and pulling them upwards out of the ground in a twisting motion. Pollination: Most Walnut varieties are self-fertile. They have both male and female flowers on a single tree. The female flowers open and wait for pollen to be spread from the male flowers, relying on natural pollinators like the wind and bees to make sure the pollen is spread from point A to point B. This being said pollination often has better chances if you have two or more trees for pollen to spread from. Pruning: During the early spring is the best time of year to prune your walnut trees. You will want to prune any broken, damaged, or diseased branches. Also, remove any crisscrossing or rubbing branches. Make sure that your tree has sunlight and air flow through the canopy, this will allow the air and sunlight to knock out molds and fungi. Be sure to look at your tree and plan where to make your cuts. Just like with a haircut, you can always remove more hair later, but if you cut too much it may take a while to grow back. Use a sharp and sterile pair of hand pruners or loppers and make your cuts at 45 degree angles facing upwards in order to promote new growth. DUE TO REGULATIONS: WE CAN NOT SHIP THIS PLANT TO ARIZONA & CALIFORNIA. *************** If you have ANY questions at all - Please send us a message and we will be happy to help. The pictures in this listing are not exact images of what your tree will look like, they depict images of full-grown trees, your tree will be in the size pot that is listed and the height of the tree at shipping can vary based on the specific species, please look above in the details to see approx tree/plant height. We do not focus much on height as some do, instead, we are more focused as very strong root systems which is the most important part of your tree/plant. Please keep in mind we are a small family licensed nursery. Our plants are grown outside 365 days a year, we do not use tons of harsh chemicals and our plants are not grown inside like some commercial nurseries. We believe that our plants being outside all year through all weather makes for a much stronger plant long-term! Plants are alive, they are not perfect. Sometimes there might be some holes in the leaves from a hungry caterpillar or a brown leaf from some damage in the mail. You can cut off or remove these leaves if any of it is severe if we have not already done so. We do not mail out any sick trees or trees with insects as that is not legal nor is it the way to do business. Please know there is no perfect tree out there. We do not use big chemicals to protect them from any naturally occurring nature. We are happy you decided to stop by and check out what we have to offer! We are a small family farm on 4 acres, we are a state inspected nursery here in the great state of Missouri! You can be sure any plants/trees you get from us will be healthy and ready for you to plant. We ask when you order from us that you do not mix our tree/plants in the same order as our other items such as our laser engraved signs. Please order these separately as they will have to be shipped separately. Before you order, please make sure that you have a basic understanding of trees/plants and that you will be able to give them the care they need. Many trees are very easy to care for and only will require you to carefully plant and give the tree a good home and give the tree a big drink of water every week in warmer weather. Please also make sure that whatever plant/tree you are ordering from us or any other nursery - that this tree is not blacklisted to come into your state. We only ship to the USA only, some plants are only allowed to enter certain states. If you order one to your state and it is not allowed there, and the shipment gets confiscated, that will be your responsibility so please only order plants that are allowed in your state. REFUND POLICY: We cannot guarantee for any specific amount of time that your plant will live due to these being live plants that rely on your help to thrive. We can guarantee a live plant upon arrival. You can do a scratch test to make sure the tree is indeed alive if you have any doubts. If your plant is for sure dead, but you don’t think the shipping was the cause like a smashed box or super long transit times, we will need you to message us within 24 hours with images of the entire plant, and an up-close image of the tree showing brown under the outer layer of bark. Both pictures need to be very clear, so they can easily be seen. If we can clearly see it was dead on arrival, we will give you a replacement tree at no cost. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEM with your plant upon getting it in the mail, please let us know ASAP, once it has arrived and is in good shape, it will be your full responsibility to take care of your new live plant. If you did file a mail claim, you will need to keep the box and damaged plant at least until the claim has been closed. WHAT IS A SCRATCH TEST? A scratch test is a simple method that shows you if a plant or tree is dead or alive. You can take your fingernail, or other sharp (clean) item and scratch a tiny area of bark off the outside of your tree, two scratches may be needed to make 100% sure. If the color in the tree under the bark is green, then your plant is alive and well, even if it doesn’t have leaves. If the color is brown, the tree is most likely dead, at least where you scratched it. Sometimes after a rough winter or a lot of stress, some of the branches that are small, and furthest from the roots of the plant can become damaged and die back a little bit. As long as at least the bottom 25% of the tree is green, you have a live tree! Please continue to try and give it care and time. Please make sure to care for the plant/tree you get from us as soon as it arrives, please get it out of the package and place it in a shady area and give it a fresh drink of water. After a plant or tree has been in the mail for a few days, it's usually not a good idea to put it right out in the blistering sun because it will be a shock to the tree or plant, it is best to put that plant in the shade to help acclimate it back to sunlight. We are located in the north, central Missouri so if plants here are currently dormant, that means when you get the plant it will be dormant if it's during our growing season then expect a tree in full leaf. If you are in doubt, you can perform the “scratch test” to tell if the plant is alive/asleep or if it’s dead. Each tree and plant will have its own different specific needs, but something that will cover most all plants and trees is you should dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root system as the tree and make sure to break up the dirt very well. This will allow the tree to easily grow new roots to establish itself much quicker. There is a simple saying when it comes to how deep the tree should be planted into the ground --- Plant it low - it won't grow, plant it high - it won't die. That statement is almost always true. The way you should do this is to find the highest root on the root ball near the trunk portion of your tree. That very top root should BARELY be under the soil. When you plant a tree too deep not only can this cause the bottom of the tree to rot, but believe it or not your tree can drown because the roots need to be able to take in oxygen and if the tree is planted too low and sits in water, the roots cant breathes and thus your tree will die. Also many ask about the growth speed of a tree, there is another general rule for this (SLEEP, CREEP, LEAP) The first year a tree is planted it will mostly sleep above ground as its works to establish roots, the second year the tree will start to slowly put on more and more growth, the third year the tree will put on the most growth as it should not be fully established and ready to grow, grow, grow! http://springsofeden.myshopify.com/products/black-walnut-tree-shade-tree-nut-tree-valuable-lumber-tree-rooted-large-size-bareroot-live-plant-12-organic-non-gmo

#propation #live plants #organic fruit plants #Bareroot Live Plant #Juglans nigra #Black Walnut tree #American Walnut

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livingcorner · 3 years

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Forest Gardening – The Agroforestry Research Trust

A Forest Garden is a designed agronomic system based on trees, shrubs and perennial plants. These are mixed in such a way as to mimic the structure of a natural forest – the most stable and sustainable type of ecosystem in this climate.

The primary aims for the system are:

You're reading: Forest Gardening – The Agroforestry Research Trust

To be biologically sustainable, able to cope with disturbances such as climate change

To be productive, yielding a number (often large) of different products

To require low maintenance.

The crops which are produced will often include fruits, nuts, edible leaves, spices, medicinal plant products, poles, fibres for tying, basketry materials, honey, fuelwood, fodder, mulches, game, sap products. Forest gardens (often called home gardens) have been used for millennia in tropical regions, where they still often form a major part of the food producing systems which people rely on, even if they work elsewhere for much of the time. They may also provide useful sources of extra income. They are usually small in area, often 0.1-1 hectares (+61404532026 acres).

In temperate regions, forest gardens are a more recent innovation, over the last 30 years. A major limiting factor for temperate forest gardens in the amount of sunlight available to the lower layers of the garden: in tropical regions, the strong light conditions allow even understorey layers to receive substantial light, whereas in temperate regions this is not usually the case. To compensate for this, understorey layers in temperate forest gardens must be chosen very carefully.

Read more: One Thing I Wish Someone Told Me Before I Started a Succulent Garden

There are plenty of plant crops which tolerate shady conditions, but many are not well known. Many of the more common shrub or perennial crops need bright conditions, and it may be necessary to design in more open clearings or glades for such species. Temperate forest gardens are also usually small in area, from tiny back garden areas up to a hectare (2.5 acres) in size.

The key features which contribute to the stability and self-sustaining nature of this system are:

The large number of species used, giving great diversity.

The careful inclusion of plants which increase fertility, such as nitrogen fixers (eg. Alders [Alnus spp], Broom [Cytisus scoparius], Elaeagnus spp, and shrub lupins [Lupinus arboreus]).

The use of dynamic accumulators – deep rooting plants which can tap mineral sources deep in the subsoil and raise them into the topsoil layer where they become available to other plants, eg. Coltsfoot [Petasites spp], Comfreys [Symphytum spp], Liquorice [Glycyrrhiza spp], Sorrel (and docks!) [Rumex spp].

The use of plants specially chosen for their ability to attract predators of common pests, eg umbellifers like tansy.

The use, where possible, of pest and disease resistant varieties, eg. apples.

The increasing role of tree cover and leaf litter which improve nutrient cycling and drought resistance.

There is an excellent free app called Ticl (smart phone and web based) which allows you to walk around a garden with a smart phone and it will describe the plants nearest to you – or you can locate specific plants using a direction-finder. Online you can see a zoom-able map of the garden with location points marked on. If you visit the garden with a smart phone you can use Ticl to help identify what is growing!

Click here to see the ART forest garden. You need to log in to see all the plant points.

Designing in Layers

A forest garden is organised in up to seven ‘layers’ . Within these, the positioning of species depends on many variables, including their requirements for shelter, light, moisture, good/bad companions, mineral requirements, pollination, pest-protection, etc. The layers consist of:

Canopy Trees

– the highest layer of trees. May include species such as Chestnuts [Castanea spp], Persimmons [Diospyros virginiana], honey locusts [Gleditsia triacanthos], Strawberry trees [Arbutus spp], Siberian pea trees [Caragana arborescens] Cornelian cherries [Cornus mas], Azeroles and other hawthorn family fruits [Crataegus spp], Quinces [Cydonia oblonga], Apples [Malus spp], Medlars [Mespilus germanica], Mulberries [Morus spp], Plums [Prunus domestica], Pears [Pyrus communis], highbush cranberries [Viburnum trilobum].

Small trees and large shrubs

– mostly planted between and below the canopy trees. May includes some of the canopy species on dwarfing rootstocks, and others such as various bamboos, Serviceberries [Amelanchier spp], Plum yews [Cephalotaxus spp], Chinkapins [Castanea pumila], Elaeagnus spp, and Japanese peppers [Zanthoxylum spp]. Others may be trees which will be coppiced to keep them shrubby, like medicinal Eucalyptus spp, and beech [Fagus sylvatica] and limes [Tilia spp] with edible leaves.

Shrubs

– mostly quite shade tolerant. May include common species like currants [Ribes spp] and berries [Rubus spp], plus others like chokeberries [Aronia spp], barberries [Berberis spp], Chinese dogwood [Cornus kousa chinensis], Oregon grapes [Mahonia spp], New Zealand flax [Phormium tenax] and Japanese bitter oranges [Poncirus trifoliata].

Read more: Sauteed Garden Fresh Green Beans

Herbaceous perennials

– several of which are herbs and will also contribute to the ground cover layer by self-seeding or spreading. These may include Bellflowers with edible leaves [Campanula spp], Comfreys [Symphytum spp], Balm [Melissa officinalis], Mints [Mentha spp], Sage [Salvia officinalis], and Tansy [Tanacetum vulgare].

Ground covers

– mostly creeping carpeting plants which will form a living mulch for the ‘forest floor’. Some may be herbaceous perennials (see above), others include wild gingers [Asarum spp], cornels [Cornus canadensis], Gaultheria spp, and carpeting brambles (eg. Rubus calycinoides & R.tricolor).

Climbers and vines

– These are generally late additions to the garden, since they obviously need sturdy trees to climb up. They may include hardy kiwis [Actinidia spp], and grapes [Vitis spp].

Rhizosphere

– Any design should take account of different rooting habits and requirements of different species, even if root crops are not grown much. Some perennials with useful roots include liquorice [Glycyrrhiza spp] and the barberries [Berberis spp] whose roots furnish a good dye and medicinal products. Various beneficial fungi can also be introduced into this layer.

A long-term biologically sustainable system for growing food & other products for a household, school, community group etc.

Once established, little work is needed to maintain.

Planting out and establishment usually requires large numbers of plants and substantial work.

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

source https://livingcorner.com.au/forest-gardening-the-agroforestry-research-trust/

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blackswallowtailbutterfly · 3 years

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I just...want to work in the garden and do nothing else. Stop only to eat and pee. I go in when the daylight’s done. And then all I want to do is look at more plants I can order and talk about my garden. All my plants are native to Ontario or nearby. All with edible parts except one. So. Plant species I have/am getting this year are:

001. Achillea millefolium (common yarrow) The red-flowered cultivar seems to have died over the winter, but the non-cultivar is growing strong and is also creeping past the stone border to become one with the grass. lol

002. Actaea racemosa (black snakeroot/black cohosh) Next weekend!

003. Agastache foeniculum (anise hyssop) Literally migrated from the place I planted it to a place it likes better, I guess. As in, there is no plant where I planted, but there is an anise hyssop in another part of that bed. You do you.

004. Allium canadense (meadow garlic/Canada garlic) Spreading slowly but reliably and super tasty.

005. Allium cernuum (nodding onion) It has flowered each year--this is year 4--but hasn’t spread at all. Very tasty, and I’ve bought some friends to help it along.

006. Allium schoenoprasum (chives/wild chives) Absolutely yum and doing very well.

007. Allium stellatum (prairie onion/autumn onion) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

008. Allium tricoccum (ramps/wild leek) It will be quite some time before it even makes flowers which hopefully let it spread, so I won’t be able to reap the benefits for a while. But, both plants did come up this year and have now died back as expected. Hopefully they’ll continue to come up.

009. Amelanchier canadensis (Canadian serviceberry) Caterpillars. Are. EATING IT. Gypsy moth caterpillars. This is going to be a problem for some time until they pupate, I guess. Plant’s generally okay, though. I won’t be getting fruit anytime soon, though.

010. Anaphalis margaritacea (pearly everlasting) Very healthy plants keeping the sunflowers under some control. This spring was my first year eating the shoots. Can’t say anything about the taste specifically, as they went into a pasta sauce, but that sauce was delicious.

011. Andromeda polifolia (bog rosemary) Next weekend!

012. Aquilegia brevistyla (smallflower columbine) Growing very well, more flowers this year. Next year I’ll eat some (flowers, only the flowers are edible).

013. Aquilegia canadensis (Canada columbine/red columbine) Flower stalk doesn’t seem as tall this year, but it still has a lot of flowers. They’re a lovely refreshing sweet snack (just the flowers).

014. Arabis alpina (alpine rockcress) Next weekend! I had one last year, but it didn’t survive the winter. The poor thing was so root-bound there was no soil in the pot, so I’m not surprised it didn’t make it. Hopefully the new one will be in better condition.

015. Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (bearberry/kinnikinnick/pinemat manzanita) Not doing great and I’m not sure why. That area is reasonably well-drained and it gets part sun, part shade. Oh well. Maybe I’ll move it to the hill in the back. It seemed to like the hill I had it on at my old apartment.

016. Argentina anserina (silverweed cinquefoil) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

017. Arisaema triphyllum (jack-in-the-pulpit) It came up! I was sure it had died last year. But no, it’s fine. Male this year. Hopefully female next year (I’m trying to see if the berries can be dried into edibility like the corms, and if they can I want to make jam or something with them).

018. Armeria maritima (thrift sea-pink) Drooping! It’s a drought-tolerant plant that will die if over-watered so I don’t water it more than once a week and I don’t water deeply, but it’s been hot so maybe it needs more or maybe I managed to overwater it anyway. Frick. Flowering very nicely though.

019. Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry) Doing just fine. No flowers and I don’t expect them for another couple of years at least, but it’s growing well.

020. Artemisia frigida (prairie sagewort/fringed sagebrush) Already spreading in the bed. Should look very nice when it fills in.

021. Aruncus dioicus (bride’s feathers/goat’s beard/buck’s beard) Growing more quickly than the internet told me it would! And going to flower this year too, which will be lovely.

022. Asarum canadense (Canada ginger) Doing fine for now, but burnt a lot in the sun last year. Likely to do so again. I’m going to plant something in front of it to shade it better. See, I wouldn’t have put it there if it was full sun because it’s a shade to part sun plant, but that area isn’t full-sun, it’s part sun; however, the sunlight it does get is very strong in the summer and the poor thing gets burnt.

023. Asclepias incarnata (swamp milkweed) Growing like a beast! Flowers were gorgeous last year. I don’t expect this to be any different, and maybe some monarch butterflies will pay it a visit.

024. Asclepias ovalifolia (oval leaf milkweed/dwarf milkweed) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

025. Asclepias syriaca (common milkweed) Mine seemed to come up much more slowly than those I’ve seen elsewhere, but it is a fairly young plant. I expect it will come up earlier next year. And it’s doing fine now.

026. Asclepias tuberosa (butterflyweed) Hasn’t come up yet, but they can take till middle of June to start emerging, so I’m not going to worry about it yet.

027. Asimina triloba (pawpaw) All three trees are alive, though with very different rates of growth. I got them at the same size at the same time, but in trying to figure out what the best thing was for them, I planted one on a hill next to the door of my at-the-time apartment, one by the fence at the opposite side of the yard, and the third I kept in a pot, which I brought in for the winter. That spring, the potted tree leafed out first at the end of April, and the one on the hill in the middle of May. The third didn’t bud at all. I continued to water it, but I was sure it was dead. Then the house my apartment was in caught fire so I had to go to a new place (same landlords, so still allowed to plant on the new property) and didn’t want to leave my plants behind. It was the end of June. All my plants were potted. and I was going to leave the lifeless stick behind AND THEN IT SUDDENLY HAD BUDS. So I potted it and took it too. All three survived the transplant, but the tree I had initially taken inside (but is now outside) is the biggest, and that little stick is still the smallest. lol

028. Asplenium trichomanes (maidenhair spleenwort) Very little still, but seems healthy. I hope for its fronds to spill over my newly constructed garden wall when it’s bigger.

029. Athyrium felix-femina (lady fern) Doing very well, as a fern that can tolerate full sun.

030. Caltha palustris (marsh marigold) It is a marsh plant and there is no pond on the property to plant it, but there is a leaking eavestrough, which I thought would do well enough along with heavy watering. So far I have been correct.

031. Campanula rotundifolia (harebell) Very lush and green. I struggled to keep it alive that first year, but three years later it’s perfect.

032. Cardamine concatenata (cutleaf toothwort) Sometime this summer!

033. Castilleja miniata (paintbrush) Sometime this summer!

034. Ceanothus americanus (New Jersey tea) Not ready to use in tisanes yet, but growing well.

035. Cerastium arvense (field chickweed) The first two years the thing was barely alive, but this year’s it’s moment to shine as it spreads and flowers.

036. Cercis canadensis (redbud) No flowers this spring, but wonderful foliage. Fingers crossed for next year.

037. Comptonia peregrina (sweetfern) Next weekend!

038. Coreopsis lanceolata (lance-leaved tickseed) The first plant I attempted died, but this one’s doing very well.

039. Cornus canadensis (bunchberry) Next weekend! I mean, my plant from last year would likely be fine if the squirrels hadn’t dug it up, as would the one before that (because that one came from the old place and had survived the winter just fine!). So, I’m going to plant the new one in a different spot and hope the fluffy-tailed rodents leave the poor thing alone this time.

040. Cornus florida (flowering dogwood) Just a baby still, but its leaves are nice and green. I had one before it that really liked the hill I had planted it on back at the old place but died in the pot before I could put it in its new home.

041. Cystopteris bulbifera (berry bladder fern) Doing just fine. I love my ferns.

042. Dalea purpurea (purple prairie clover) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

043. Deschampsia caespitosa (tufted hair grass) Not doing too well. Was fine last year, so I’m not sure what’s going on.

044. Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower) I’ve always loved these. They’re edible, medicinal (with caution), have lovely flowers, and attract lots of pollinators including bees and butterflies. Mine is doing perfectly. No flowers yet this year, but very green healthy foliage.

046 Erythronium americanum (trout lily/dogtooth violet) Still no flowers this spring, but they did come up, so maybe next year.

047. Eupatorium purpureum (sweet-scented Joe Pye weed/gravel root/purple Joe Pye weed) Soon! Also, do you know how this is eaten? Its root is literally burnt and then you use the ashes to flavour your food. The plant is otherwise poisonous, so how it was found out that it could be used this way conjures up amusing scenarios for me.

048. Fragaria vesca (woodland strawberry/wild strawberry/alpine strawberry) I have strawberries! They’re far from ripe yet, but developing well. They’re also spreading over the hill I planted them on and will hopefully give the garlic mustard and dog-strangling vine a run for their money.

049. Fragaria virginiana (wild strawberry/Virginia strawberry/common strawberry/mountain strawberry) Because one native species of strawberry isn’t enough, I have both. This one is also making strawberries and nicely filling out the area I put it in.

050. Galium boreale (northern bedstraw) Newly planted! The first one of these I planted didn’t survive the winter, but I hadn’t been able to plant it until autumn (because I hadn’t yet been told where I could plant). This one has the rest of spring, the whole summer, and fall until frost to establish itself, and I’ve seen a number of them growing wild at the edge of the ravines, so it should be fine.

051. Gaultheria procumbens (American wintergreen/eastern teaberry/boxberry/checkerberry) Next weekend! I actually already have one and have had it for a couple years, but it’s another that came so root-bound there wasn’t any soil in the pot. I planted it hoping for the best, but it seems to be in a very slow decline. So I’m going to plant another one, hopefully not so root-bound and that will maybe either give it a boost (plants of the same species will often help each other when sick by transferring nutrients) or else take over when the first one dies.

052. Geum aleppicum (yellow avens) I didn’t plant this, and I can’t find it for sale anywhere anyway, but it’s a common plant that shows up as a weed. Being native as well as edible, it’s allowed to stay wherever it isn’t directly in my way.

053. Geum canadense (white avens) Same as above. lol Anyway, both species have attractive foliage. They’re likely not used as garden plants because of how common they are as weeds and because their flower stalks are long and leggy. But I’m happy to have them.

054. Geum rivale (purple avens) Newly planted! This one is offered as a garden plant, though fairly rare, and I’ve finally got my hands on one! All of the Geum species in my garden seem to be doing just fine, so I expect this will fine too. It’s the first plant I’ve put in a new area that doesn’t drain very well which makes it perfect for plants like this one that grow in clay on stream banks.

055. Geum triflorum (prairie smoke) Green leaves. Flower stalks up. This is a pretty reliable plant because it doesn’t die back in the winter, it just sort of sits there waiting for spring and then resumes growth like nothing happened. The first year it drooped a lot but once it established itself there was no stopping it and the transplant went smoothly too.

056. Grindelia squarrosa (gumweed) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

057. Helianthus divaricatus (woodland sunflower) This is a sunflower that can actually stand a fair bit of shade. I thought mine had died last year due to the foliage and stemming dying back after a squirrel broke it and it and it was still summer. But it’s come up this year and I’m starting to think nothing short of cooking a sunflower’s roots will actually kill it.

058 and 059. Helianthus nuttalli (Nuttall’s sunflower/common tall sunflower) and Helianthus pauciflorus (stiff sunflower/beautiful sunflower) All I know is, I ordered both, I received two small plants, by the time I got them in the ground they were barely alive, that area is now being overtaken by sunflowers, and it could be one species, or it could be both, I don’t know. I did thin out some shoots this spring and add them to a very flavourful pasta sauce. I also thinned out a bunch of their roots last fall. To look at them, you wouldn’t know that either of these had happened, and I’m going to have to thin out more. They’re also putting up shoots between the stones of the cement path. There will be sunflowers here until the end of time.

060. Helianthus tuberosus (sunchoke/Jerusalem artichoke/suntato) Because I don’t learn, I planted yet another sunflower species last year, in a different area, because dammit I want my suntatoes that taste like artichokes. I planted one last year. I took and ate a bunch of tubers in the fall. There are currently five plants. This should be interesting.

061. Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower/sweet oxeye) After getting off to a rocky start last year, this one’s doing just fine, and also looks to be living up to its resemblance to sunflowers in more than just appearance.

062. Hibiscus moscheutos (swamp rose mallow) One of them appears to have died so I hope the other isn’t headed the same direction. Seems to be coming up normally though. Also I learned the flowers can change colour from year to year which was a huge surprise to me from the first year to the second. No idea what it will be like this year.

063. Hierochloe odorata (sweet grass/vanilla grass) It flowered last year, which was lovely. I hope it does so again this year. Foliage is nice and green anyhow.

064. Humulus lupulus (common hop) Growing nicely now, though its first several shoots died this year. It seems to just be a very impatient plant in the springtime despite not being very frost hardy. So it put out shoots, which died in the frost, and then put out more, which also died, etc. until finally there was no more frost so it just kept growing. That’s one way to do it, I guess. lol Most other frost-tender plants tend to be more cautious about when they put out new growth. had a hop plant at my old apartment, which really liked the place I put I put it in, but it died when I potted it to try and take with me.

065. Impatiens capensis (jewelweed/spotted touch-me-not) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

066. Juglans nigra (black walnut) This tree has likely been on this property since before I was born. I tapped it spring before last. I’ll tap it next spring too. Seems to be a healthy tree.

067. Kalmia latifolia (mountain laurel) They’re not native to Ontario but they are native to eastern North America, in the Appalachian mountains. I figured if they could survive mountain weather they could handle south Ontario winters, and so far it has. It’s not edible but I fell in love with them a long time ago when reading David Attenborough’s The Secret Life of Plants. And they’re making buds this year!

068. Lactuca canadensis (Canadian lettuce) Yes! We have a native lettuce. Most people will pull it up as a weed along with dandelions and thistles, though. I let it stay wherever possible. It’s not like I can just buy a new one, so I count myself lucky when they come up in my garden.

069. Lilium michiganense (Michigan lily) It made smaller ones, but they don’t seem to have survived for whatever reason. The older ones are very robust this year, though, and are budding with what looks like will be many flowers.

070. Lilium philadelphicum (wood lily) Newly planted! I have not had much luck with these, but hopefully this year’s the year. I have two plants, so maybe they’ll help each other.

071. Lindera benzoin (spicebush) No flowers or butterflies yet, but it’s a healthy bush and lives up to its name.

072. Linum lewisii (blue flax) Newly planted! I’ve wanted these for a long time but the places that carried them either wouldn’t deliver or didn’t have them as plugs or potted stock (I find seeds too unreliable). But now I have a couple in the large stone garden pot that I specifically filled with dirt that would allow for good drainage, for those plants that can survive the cold but not sitting in water.

073. Lupinus perennis (sundial lupine) Soon! Or I already have it. Not sure. See, I was sent an email by the company saying I’d probably accidentally gotten a bigleaf lupine instead and they gave me a coupon for the following spring to get a confirmed sundial lupine, but there is a chance I already have it. Either way it’s a nice plant, so whether I have two plants of the same species or two different species is fine.

074. Lupinus polyphyllus (bigleaf lupine/common lupine) I actually haven’t been able to find this species available for delivery anywhere, so if that is what I currently have, then I’m delighted and this is the best plant mixup that could possibly happen (there have been a number). Whatever it is is a very attractive plant even with just the foliage. I hope it makes flowers this year.

075. Mahonia repens (creeping Oregon grape) Speaking of plant mixups! The first time I ordered this I got a Potentilla nepalensis instead. I didn’t know it at the time, as it had a tag saying “Mahonia repens”, but then it flowered...I wouldn’t have minded terribly much if it had been a native Potentilla species, but “nepalensis” is definitely not that. Well, I emailed the company with a photo and they promptly delivered not one, but two creeping Oregon grape plants, and both seem to be doing okay, making new growth, survived the winter, which the potentilla did not.

076. Maianthemum stellatum (starry false Solomon’s seal) They seem to be doing well! They flowered, but I don’t know if there will be berries. Next year maybe, but then you don’t really see Maianthemum berries until late summer, so maybe there will be a couple this year.

077. Mentha arvensis (wild mint) It’s doing exactly what mint does. Tastes wonderful, which is a great reason for thinning it out and pulling it out from between the sidewalk stones.

078. Mertensia paniculata (tall bluebells) Currently flowering. Despite the name, though they do grow taller than their cousin the Virginia bluebells, I wouldn’t say they’re a bigger plant overall. Very nice though. The flowers are a delicate light blue.

079. Mertensia virginica (Virginia bluebells) When I planted the rootstock in the early summer and nothing came up at all, I thought they had died. But nope! They came up vigorously this spring, with huge leaves and incredibly blue flowers. The flowers are don and it’s starting to die back now, but what a gorgeous springtime plant it is.

080. Monarda didyma (scarlet beebalm) My theory is if you put two members of the mint family next to each other, they’ll keep each other at bay. I’m probably wrong. Anyway, this is already spreading in two directions. Last year caterpillars at a lot of its flowers. I hope that won’t happen this year.

081. Monarda fistulosa (wild bergamot) Has become a very big plant, but politely hasn’t really left it’s immediate area. They make great dried flowers after the winter, by the way, as the seedheads retain the scent. Especially if you squeeze them.

082. Monarda punctata (horsemint) This is starting to fill out now, but compared to the other members of its genus took a very long time to go past a teeny tiny little growth. Last year it got huge shortly after I planted it, so we’ll see if it does that this year. I hope so. The bees, wasps, and other pollinators absolutely loved it.

083. Myosotis laxa (smallflower forget-me-not) I didn’t plant it, I can’t even find it available for sale. It just grows as a weed. It’s just as blue as other forget-me-nots, but with stems that are very leggy and even smaller flowers than the popular garden species. But it’s native so it stays where it’s not directly in my way. It’s very prolific, lots of plants in the garden.

084. Myrica gale (sweet gale/bog myrtle) Only just started making new growth. It seems to be on its way out and I’m not sure why, but it makes me sad. I think last year was really hard on it being so hot so early and I didn’t have a hose then, so I was stuck carrying buckets of water up from my apartment in the basement. But I have a hose this year and I’ve been watering regularly, so maybe, just maybe, it will spring back into action this year. It’s such a pretty bush when in full foliage and the leaves taste like green tea.

085. Oenothera fruticosa (narrow-leaved sundrops) Next weekend! I’ve grown another species which has finished its lifecycle (they’re biennial) and sadly doesn’t seem to have successfully reseeded itself. But maybe this one will.

086. Onoclea sensibilis (sensitive fern) This poor thing struggled hard last year. I planted it between a tree and the house, but it still got a lot of sunlight. Still, it came up this year, and in my experience, second year plants tend to be much more hardy, so we’ll see. It’s doing fine for now.

087. Opuntia fragilis (fragile prickly pear) I did put it in a fairly dry area that gets full sun, but it does struggle in the winter and spring. It is starting to bounce back, though, just like it did last year, and the pieces it scattered are making roots of their own. All of whom are spiky bastards.

088. Opuntia humifusa (eastern prickly pear/devil’s tongue) This did just fine. I had it in a big stone pot which I moved to an area that gets no rain or snow on it, and it’s making new growth now that I’ve moved the pot back into the full sun. It like to spike me whenever I move the pot.

089. Osmundastrum cinnamomeum (cinnamon fern) Next weekend!

090. Oxalis stricta (yellow woodsorrel/sourgrass) It’s not technically native to Ontario, but it is native to Michigan and moved up here decades or possibly centuries ago. I didn’t plant it and you can’t find it in stores because it’s considered a weed, but it is coming up in my garden, it doesn’t hurt anything, and it is a delicious little plant, so it stays.

091. Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper) I didn’t have to buy this because it was already in the yard (it’s common in the ravines), but if it wasn’t I would have, because it’s gorgeous and I like the taste of the berries. It’s a native relative of Boston ivy, so if you’re wanting a wall climber, please get Virginia creeper instead. They’re available at a lot of garden centres and online.

092. Phlox divaricata (woodland phlox/blue phlox) It’s growing, but I think one of the white avens is overcrowding it, so I’ll probably dig that one up and eat it so the phlox can have more space.

093. Podophyllum peltatum (mayapple) Three plants in last year. One plant up this year. Oh well. It’s growing nicely, so hopefully it will spread.

094. Polygonatum biflorum (smooth Solomon’s seal) Hopefully coming by the end of this month!

095. Polystichum achrosticoides (Christmas fern) It doesn’t die back in the winter! I mean, the leaves get kind of yellowed, but otherwise just hangs out and makes new growth in spring. My first attempt with ferns (ostrich ferns) was a failure, but so far all my other fern species have been successful and are currently thriving.

096. Prunus americana (American plum) It’s very top heavy when leafed so it flops over whenever it rains which is kind of funny, but it seems to be doing fine.

097. Prunus nigra (black plum/Canada plum) My first black plum died, but this one seems fine.

098. Prunus pumila (sand cherry) Soon! And it better bloody be a sand cherry and not a purple-leaf sandcherry, which is a hybrid, like the last company I ordered one from sent me. But that company didn’t specialize in native plants and carried both plants, whereas this company does specialize in native plants and does not advertise the hybrid at all.

099. Prunus serotina (black cherry) This is the very cherry that is used to flavour black cherry ice cream! But my little tree (not that little anymore lmao) hasn’t made flowers yet. It has nice foliage though it keeps trying to grow into the neighbour’s fence. Don’t know why. The sun doesn’t come from there. Maybe it will flower next spring.

100. Pycnanthemum tenufolium (slender mountain mint) Despite being part of the mint family, this is actually a very polite plant so far that stays in its immediate area.

101. Pycnanthemum virginiana (Virginia mountain mint) Just as polite as its cousin. My first died and I blame the person who lived in another unit who decided that garden bed was an ash tray. I managed to put a stop to that, got all the cigarettes out, dug out a stump, added new dirt, and planted a new Virginia mountain mint as well as bride’s feathers. That particular tenant isn’t there anymore and nobody else does anything with the outside, except to put a garden hyacinth there, which I’ve left in its pot and been watering. I’m not just going to leave the poor thing to die. Anyway, the Virginia mountain mint flowered last year and I hope it does so again this year.

102. Ratibida columnifera (yellow coneflower/upright prairie coneflower) Newly planted! I don’t like to get the cultivar versions if I can avoid it, but I will if that’s all that’s available, or in this case, to get the plants I really wanted, I needed to get something that would put me over the minimum cost. But I didn’t want to leave it at that, so I bought a non-cultivar this year so they can be friends.

103. Ratibida pinnata (gray-headed coneflower/yellow coneflower/pinnate prairie coneflower) This almost flowered last year and the I accidentally broke it with the hose. That will not happen this year. I don’t see a flower stalk yet, but the leaves look healthy.

104. Rhus aromatica (fragrant sumac) It’s putting out flowers, but it did so last year and nothing happened, so I guess we’ll see this year.

105. Rosa blanda (smooth rose) A rose without thorns! Or almost. It’s got leaves out, but it’s a slow grower for a rose and hasn’t flowered yet.

106. Rubus occidentalis (black raspberry) This was supposed to be a red raspberry because black raspberries are easy to find in the ravines, but that’s okay, and I did order a new red raspberry which will hopefully actually be red. lol

107. Rubus strigosus (American red raspberry) Soon! Sometimes considered a variety of Rubus idaeus, which is the one you find in grocery stores. There is one patch I’ve found of them in the ravines, but they’re not nearly as common here as the black raspberry. Hopefully this new plant I get will actually be the red raspberry.

108. Rudbeckia laciniata (cutleaf coneflower/green-headed coneflower) There are two plants with very different leaves growing there. One of them I hope is the plant I intended, but won’t know until they flowers. They’re both doing well, whatever they are.

109. Sambucus canadensis (common elderberry) It’s making flowers this year! I learned the hard way that this species does NOT like being transplanted to a pot, which I had to do to take with me to my current apartment. However, it did eventually bounce back and didn’t mind being transplanted to its current location, which it likes just fine.

110. Shepherdia canadensis (Canada buffaloberry) Next weekend!

111. Solidago canadensis (Canadian goldenrod) I tried to buy this plant but they accidentally sent me an aster species instead. However, there are a bunch of goldenrods growing a different area that I didn’t plant and I believe to be this species.

112. Solidago nemoralis (gray goldenrod) Droops a lot but bounces back quickly.

113. Solidago simplex (spike goldenrod/sticky goldenrod/Mt. Albert Goldenrod) I’ve tried this once before and it died, possibly from being small enough that the ledge it was next to prevented it from getting enough sunlight. I’ve planted the new one far enough from the ledge that it does not get shaded by it, so hopefully that will do the trick.

114. Spiraea alba (meadowsweet) The first year in the new place it struggled a bit, but it’s fine now and it flowered last year.

115. Symphoricarpos orbiculatus (coralberry) Next weekend! It’s also the first time I’ve seen it available anywhere.

116. Symphyotrichum ciliolatum (fringed blue aster/Lindley’s aster/northern heart-leaved aster) A very polite aster, or maybe it’s just being kept under control by the sweet grass (055). Its foliage is that lovely gray-green colour often referred to as “blue” when people talk about holly, spruce, and hosta leaves, and its flowers are that pale blue people often think of as purple or periwinkle but shows up digitally as light blue.

117. Symphyotrichum cordifolium (heart-leaved aster) Doing fine where I planted it.

118. Symphyotrichum laeve (smooth aster) I didn’t have the tag and thought this was a violet when I planted it. It now thinks it owns the space, but looks very nice when it’s in bloom.

119. Symphyotrichum lanceolatum (panicled aster/lance-leaf aster/willow aster/tall white aster/eastern line aster/white-panicle aster/narrow-leaf Michaelmas daisy) Lots of common names. It decided it belonged on the sidewalk last year, but surprisingly agreed when I placed its branches behind the stone line of the garden. We’ll see if we can come to the same agreement this year.

120. Symphyotrichum novae-angliae (New England aster) Not flowering yet this year, but looks it’s getting ready. They’re such a lovely rich violet to purple and I love that they flower so late into autumn too.

121. Taraxacum officinale ceratophorum (fleshy dandelion/horned dandelion/rough dandelion) Obviously didn’t buy it. lol But it is in my garden along with non-native subspecies. Since they don’t harm the plants they grow among, they can stay as long as they’re not in my way.

122. Trillium erectum (red trillium) Next weekend! And I possibly already have one. See, I ordered three trillium species last year as bulbs and planted them, but lost two of the tags. Only two species came up and only the one with the tag flowered this year. So I don’t know if the one that didn’t flower was erectum or grandifolium, so I ordered both again.

123. Trillium flexipes (nodding trillium) It came up this year and it was lovely. Died back now though.

124. Trillium grandiflorum (great white trillium) Next weekend! And I might already have one: see 109. Ontario’s provincial flower. I once made a set of coat of arms style designs with each of the provincial flowers and animals.

125. Urtica dioica gracilis (stinging nettle) Planted itself in my garden back at the old place and if I didn’t trust the other plants would be safe after I left (I was right, by the way; the whole backyard has been turned over) I definitely didn’t think this would be either, so I potted it to take with and got stung for my trouble, but it’s happy in its new home. Lives up to its name, of course, but I did eat a few of the tops earlier this year in soup and later in pasta sauce, so I suppose we’re even.

126. Vaccinium angustifolium (lowbush blueberry/wild blueberry) When you see “wild blueberries” in the grocery store in Ontario, it’s this. It always seems to struggle with mould in the spring. Every year I’ve had it. I got it a friend in hopes it would help, but they seem to both be dealing with it now. I’ll have cut back the bad branches and hope that helps. It usually does, but I don’t know why it starts in the first place. None of the neighbouring plants are suffering.

127. Vaccinium corymbosom (highbush blueberry) This is the species you’ll most often see in the grocery store in Ontario as “blueberries”. My bush always makes some flowers and berries, but it’s not doing great right now. Not sure why. It doesn’t get mould the way the lowbush blueberries do. I hope it’s not on its way out. You can get them at a lot of garden centres, but there’s usually a minimum amount of plants or a minimum cost, and garden centres that specialize in native plants don’t often carry these, while garden centres that don’t often don’t have any other native species or at least not any I need or have room for. So for my purposes they’re kind of hard to get.

128. Verbena hastata (blue vervain) Was off to a slow start this year, but it’s doing just fine now.

129. Viburnum acerifolium (mapleleaf viburnum) Next weekend!

130. Viburnum lentago (nannyberry) It’s doing fine, just fine, but I doubt I’ll get any berries for some time yet.

131. Viburnum nudum cassinoides (Witherod viburnum) A lovely little bush so far. Maybe I’ll get flowers next spring.

132. Viola adunca (hookedspur violet/western dog violet/early blue violet) Hopefully coming by the end of this month! My first go with this plant was not successful. Hopefully better luck this time.

133. Viola blanda (sweet white violet) Exactly what it says on the tin. There’s a delicate pink to the centre, and the foliage is nice too.

134. Viola canadensis (Canada violet) It’s tall for a violet, and spreading nicely with lots of flowers.

135. Viola labradorica (purple Labrador violet) Next weekend! Despite it’s name, it is also native to Ontario.

136. Viola sororia (wood violet/blue violet) This is most common violet you see generally, which makes it hard, though not impossible, to find in garden centres. However, they’ve planted themselves in the yard and I’ve successfully transferred one to one of the beds. I have other place I want to put the rest before I dig up that area.

137. Vitis riparia (riverbank grape) I have two plants because I didn’t realize when I bought it that hiding among the weeds in another part of the garden there already was one. Oh well. Guaranteed cross-pollination of two genetically diverse individuals. They’re both doing well.

138. Zizia aurea (golden alexanders) They’re doing well. It looks a lot like wild parsnip, which it is related to, but it’s much more friendly, and I ate some this spring.

I may be able to order more. We’ll see. One of my go-to places says they won’t ship until “opening day”. I guess they mean when their area reopens, but that might not be till next year. Meantime, I will continue to construct my garden wall in the back.

#garden #plants #native North American species #native species of Ontario

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