#imagine seeing a dress worn by the woman whose story you're helping to tell and going

[archduchessofnowhere]

That Vogue interview annoyed me so much that I have to comment it in more detail, so semi rant incoming lol. The translation was made by @sisionscreen (you can find the whole interview in their blog, I also reblogged it earlier). Thank you for enduring the job of translating this mess!

To show the desired modernity, costume designer Gabriela Reumer took a central role. The Swisswoman is known for her work on TV productions like Soko Wismar and movies like “Rabbit without Ears”,“Guardians” and “Traumfabrik” and had to familiarize herself with the 19th century royal fashion first - and wasn’t too fond of some of the things she found. “I immediately had the ambition to choose a different approach to the costumes than the classic-historical one.”

You see the thing about this is that there isn't a single piece of Elisabeth centered media that has historically accurate costumes. The closest one is the 2009 mini series, which respects the silhouttes of the time and recreates some of her most known looks - but it still plays loose with history. There isn't anything groundbraking in modernizing Elisabeth's dresses.

Reumer: Today it is desired in period dramas that everything is modern and different in terms of film making or production. That is a great undertaking and not easy to do. But you have to adapt a bit to the present and adapt the story for the eyes of today because a lot just doesn't work anymore. About 1850, women were like furniture. They were adorned, one could say decorated, so you look at them. The most important thing was that it was a lot. Actually this is unbearable, the women were like dolls. At this time, the crinolines, a kind of hoop skirt, were like a sphere and gave the women this doll likeness. But this didn't fit the story of Sisi for me, this woman, that emancipated herself and freed herself from the oppression and power plays. So I asked myself how could one dress women more dynamically. So I changed the shape of the crinolines towards something that came into fashion in the 1870s: flat in the front and a bit elliptical in the back. I used this shapes for Sisi and Sophie.

I will ignore the whole "women were furnitures" take and just focus on the second part, about crinolines not "fitting" Sisi's story. Because if Sisi is meant to be this free spirited girl that was thrown into a gilded cage, and this is a coming of age story of her emancipating herself, then wouldn't it make perfect sense for her to wear the 1850s crinolines? If your take is that crinolines were oppressive, and that Elisabeth was oppressed at court, then her wearing them to represent that is a no brainer. Then you can signify her freeing herself by having her not wear them anymore by the end of the season (or at whatever point in the show this happens). Forget historical accuracy, giving Elisabeth a 1870s bustle doesn't make sense narratively.

Vogue: So did you also see the originals clothes of Empress Elisabeth?

Reumer: Yes, at Schönbrunn, but I found them awful. Everything was so tacky. I'm usually very minimalistic when it comes to my costumes.

Well Gabriela, Elisabeth didn't dress having in mind getting your approval. Nor should you expect a rich royal woman from the 19th century to have the same taste in fashion as you.

Vogue: Then why did you agree to be the costume designer after all?

I wonder the same thing.

Reumer: At the beginning, I wondered what I was actually doing here. But then I viewed it as a challenge. There are also very nice great from this time. The men's clothing is awesome with its frock-coats from great materials and high tophats. It is crazy what one can do with shapes.

You can tell that Reumer isn't into historical fashion at all because she likes Victorian male fashion aka literally the Most Boring Male Fashion in history.

Vogue: Was there a character you found difficult to dress?

Reumer: In the beginning, this was the case with Emperor Franz. He always showed himself in uniform and we had to figure out how to show him without a uniform. How do you show what kind of person he really is? That wasn't simple. Also to make the uniform fit in a way he can move like an emperor was a challenge. For example, he wears a corsage underneath it to support him.

Ok I actually like this! Men wore corsets too! I hope this makes it into the screen, we have way too many scenes of women being tightlaced and not any of men wearing corsets because they were a practical undergarment that gave support.

Overall this interview deeply annoyed me because the way Reumer talked about it, it seems that the modern look of the costumes (which is a trend in period dramas that recently has become very popular thanks to shows such as Bridgerton) is solely due to her just not liking 1850s fashion. Modernization can work for narrative purposes, Bridgerton is a full-on romance fantasy that has nothing to do with actual history so the glittery dresses work to enphasize that. RTL Sisi is also so loosely based on the actual Elisabeth of Austria's life that the modern fabrics and designs work to separate it from real history. Even the Sissi Trilogy with its Disney-princess-like dresses does this. Many times this is not even the designers fault, usually the director has a vision for the story and the designer has to work around that. But I do expect at least some respect for the source material. To say that you hated what the actual woman wore and instead you took inspiration from random moments in fashion history that you liked is just tasteless, what can I say.

That being said I do hope that the final look of the show's costumes is at least cohesive and do make sense within the narrative of the story. But yeah this was dissapointing.

[insensitivesurgeon7]

Original strange story

‹ Always with me ›

❤️Woman/Womаn❤️

Valeria/Emilia

rating: PG-13

genres: drama, romance

warnings: ER, POV, death of the main character, non-linear narrative

———————

— How far can you go?

— Well, at least smile at me, at such an important moment.

— Look, you're glowing!I don't know what it is, but it definitely suits you.Always be like this.

The performances of the terrible! The audience is not interested in this at all, on the contrary, they look at me with horror and disgust, turn pale and burst into screams at what is happening on the stage. Insultingly. Am I making such an effort for such uneducated trash? No one appreciates my efforts, no one except...

Emiliа.

She never missed a single performance of mine, never took her burning eyes off the stage, and looked right into my soul. A bright ray stood out in the crowd of gray and gloomy gentlemen, almost jumping out of the chair in the first row and breaking her voice in one and the same phrase: "encore!"

— And now, ladies and gentlemen, the real horror of this neighborhood will be on the scene. Many lost their minds just seeing it!

The audience was simply dumbfounded, not knowing what else to expect this evening. Some covered themselves with their hands, and others wrapped themselves in their clothes, so as not to see even greater horrors. But that's what they came for, isn't it? So why are sobs and angry exclamations heard instead of cheers?

But only the tiny girl in the front row was waiting with lively interest for the miracle I had prepared especially for her. I removed the fake smile from my face and put on a genuine, real one that was meant only for her.

It's strange, but I don't remember what happened after the intermission. Right now, I'm standing at the door of the dressing room, not understanding how I got here. There was no memory of me going up to my room. Only the people actively moving towards the exit; the head of that old lady with wide eyes, which I held so carefully in my hands; the floorboards stained with dirty blood; the bright image of Emilia…

Still, I burst into the dressing room with a cry of joy, plopping down in an old ragged chair with gold upholstery on the uneven edges. I couldn't help but laugh out loud, throwing my head back. Why was I having so much fun? I suppose I was amused by the ladies, who were as pale as toadstools, who threw up their hands in fright, and who, forgetting their proprieties, screamed like slaughtered pigs. But the laughter didn't last long. I stopped abruptly and looked at the floor mirrors. I liked the reflection: my glasses had slid sideways; my hair, which had been so neatly arranged a few hours ago, was completely disheveled; my shirt was soaked with the blood of the old lady who had been so impudent.

I grinned even harder, my uneven smile with crooked teeth looking creepy, and my gaze, wild and triumphant, lingered in the background. A skeleton in a worn maroon dress and a dark wig with dirty patches.

— How do I look? — Emilia was busy twirling around the mirror, looking at herself from different angles. The full silk dress suited her immensely, and the hem of it rose above the tiled floor as she danced, exposing her pale little legs. She looked like a fragile butterfly whose wings were scorched by a scarlet flame.

— Honey, you look beautiful! — There was no lie in what I said, I really thought she looked amazing. Although in fact, it always looks like this.

— Oh, dear, are you here yet? How did you manage to get here before me?

I got up and went to my beloved, kneeling across from her and taking the leather-gloved hand in my palm, gently stroking the uneven surface with my fingers and gazing in awe at the empty eye sockets.

— Emilia, how do you like my performance? Did you like it? I tried my best, really! — She didn't say anything, just tilted her head, and the wig slid to the right. — Why aren't you talking? Did I do something wrong? I thought I had prepared only the best…

She doesn't answer, why? Did she enjoy it so much that she was speechless? Or is it so bad that she won't talk to me? But wait…

My head is full of holes. How could I forget our anniversary? I slapped my hand against my forehead, looking down guiltily. — Now you must be offended with me." You know what, let me fix it! I'll have a small dinner for the two of us, with your favorite music playing. Just give me some time, okay? — I looked at Emilia with pleading eyes, and I thought she was breaking down a little, but she nodded slightly. Or was it my imagination? .No.

— How soon? — Emilia tapped her heel impatiently, fidgeting with the bandage.

I untied the tight knot of the ribbon, and Emilia closed her eyes for a moment, shielding her hand from the bright light. At the same moment, her eyes widened at what she saw.

— You… Did you do all this? — she gazed with fascination at the ornate gazebo I'd been working on day and night for so long, given its taste. She always wanted a gazebo on this hill next to the twin oaks, and with a view of the cemetery.

— Do you like? - the smile did not leave my face, the pleasant surprise in Emilia's eyes made me happy. She didn't say anything, just came over and hugged me tightly, murmuring her thanks in a low voice. It was an important gift for her. I never understood why she wanted it so much, she only spoke in vague riddles that I never understood.

I stroked her hair, lifted her in my arms, and sat her down in the big chair, getting as close to her face as I could, feeling her hot breath and the tips of her dark brown hair tickling my cheeks.

— We have the whole night at our disposal... — My voice became eerily low, piercing the silence of the night. In an instant, the reddened Emilia smiled at the corners of her mouth, enticing me into a kiss with her soft pink lips…

The air was cool, and it enveloped my legs and crawled slowly down my back, penetrating my sensitive areas, feverishly tickling my skin. All life seemed to have died out: there was no sound of the confused rustle of leaves that sometimes fell to the ground, no cry of night birds that suddenly appeared from behind the trees, and even the old guard singing sailor songs, even he seemed to be gone.

But to be honest, I didn't care at all. But worried whether it Emiliа?

— The sky is unusually clear today, and the stars seem to Shine brighter today. — Trying to start a conversation and filling the glasses with sweet wine, I took a small SIP, watching the behavior of my beloved. Who behaved... in no way. Her skeleton was leaning back against the carved back of a chair, and her wonderfully shaped skull was hidden behind the remnants of artificial hair. She sat at a little distance from me and looked like a statue ready to shatter at any moment.

There was no response, and the silence was annoying.

I couldn't help laughing as I fiddled with the crystal glass filled with sparkling cherry liquid: too much resemblance to the blood of Emilia. So sweet, with a metallic taste, I remember there was a lot of it…

— Your death pleases me, because now we can always be together! Isn't that great?!

In my arms rested a cooling, lifeless body, dripping blood and staining everything possible. Her eyes were glassy, and there was a pain in them that pleased me so much. Still, I was a little disappointed.

— You promised to die with a smile on your face and a ringing laugh, welcoming a new world for yourself with open arms, so why did you scream and struggle, showering me with curses and bitter tears?

It was as if I felt my beloved's gaze on me, the emptiness of her once-bright brown eyes tearing at my soul, making me shudder with unpleasant memories. She still hasn't said a word. I was beginning to worry about it.

— Oh, honey, are you still mad?I have forgiven you for your incomprehensible affair, so be consistent. — the corners of his mouth twitched convulsively, the glass swayed in a trembling hand, and a scarlet drop fell on the snowy tablecloth, spreading across the rough patterns.

— Stop following me! I told you everything yesterday! We are no more!

— You seem to have forgotten something, my dear — there was a short click, and the revolver in my hand was aimed at a tall, slender young man with large blue eyes.

- No!..

Suppressing a sudden surge of anger, I tried to smile amiably, but I could feel my face shuddering, contorting into a terrible grimace.

— Why are you silent? We see each other so rarely, and the luxury we are allowed now will not come for a long time. So why don't you use it? — She didn't even look at me. What am I talking about, she didn't even touch the holiday table!

— Please say a word! Is that so much to ask?! — My left eye twitched nervously, the first tears came to the corners, and my voice trembled treacherously. I didn't like it, but Emilia seemed to enjoy it. Why do I hear her low, angry laugh?!

I swallowed hard and tried to keep my composure, but it didn't work. I stood up and walked resolutely toward Emilia, hovering over her skeleton, which seemed to me to have shrunk in size. Hot tears ran down my cheeks and into my mouth, and my chest ached, and my laughter was unhealthy.

— Y-You... you like hurting me, don't you? — choking back tears and laughing hysterically, I barely managed a few more words. — Answer me! — I must have looked pathetic from the outside.

No attention, but there was a mocking look directed at me, at my hands, or rather at my prosthetics.

— Are you so concerned that you cut off your own hands?!

— Answer me, you insensitive bitch!— I took her chin in my hand and looked into her empty eye sockets. Oh, my dear, where is your charming gaze? What happened to your velvety voice that soothed me in the evenings? And your delicate skin, pale and sore, where did it go, do you want to tell me?

It was very painful. Very. I've never felt such pain in my life. I couldn't see much because of the tears, and the bubbling, broken laughter tore at my chest.

Something cold touched my face, wiping away tears. These were the knuckles of Emilia's fingers, painfully prickling at the corners of my reddened, I'm sure, eyes. My hand held tight to the radius of my beloved, as if afraid to lose it again, afraid to let go, and the brush of a somewhat yellowed bone soothed my cheeks, and I felt a little relieved.

— Forgive me… Please, I'm sorry, I'm sorry ... — I whispered endlessly, burying my face in the crumpled fabric somewhere in the area of my collarbone, my free hand clutching the fragile piece of bone.

— It's our holiday, isn't it? — I looked at Emilia's face with genuine love as I got up from my knees. — We haven't lost anything yet, so let's dedicate ourselves to each other under these sparkling stars!

— This is my favorite artist playing! Lehr, let's dance!

Everyone was looking at us that night.

Light jazz began to play, and Emilia's favorite tune turned on. You could see that she brightened and seemed to straighten up. I asked her to dance by pulling on me, and she plopped her skull on my neck, and I just giggled. She's funny. Trying to keep my balance, I put one hand on her waist and the other connected with the bone of her wrist, and she bent over and looked at me. I could see her confusion.

We began to circle slowly to the music, keeping our eyes on each other. Even though Emilia no longer had them, I still knew that she was looking at me, and only at me.

— You will always be with me.

———————