#ive had the luxury of traveling often when i was younger since a lot of my family is abroad and my mom loves travelling

[nako-doodles]

seeing tae traveling on his own (going to malta) made me realize how bad i am at traveling, nevertheless alone. i still dont understand the whole process ngl. i have horrible anxiety so even going thru checks makes me so nervous plus w/ how quick it goes and u gotta take all your stuff out and rush and its a mess so id probably forget my own bags if someone wasnt with me. u must've traveled a lot right, are u comfortable doing it on your own by now?

traveling alone is always going to be stressful, esp as an asian woman yknow? travel will always be a rush rush wait affair (unless ur hella rich) and murphys law will hit you at one point or other. however, research and preparedness will be your best friend, and the experience and sights you see will be worth it 🥰🥰🥰

im going to compile some tips after the cut if you need it:

i always keep a list of everything i need to pack, organized by: toiletries (if theyre in your carry-on, you need to make sure its within airline security regulations. creams count as liquids. BRING SUNSCREEN!), clothes, accessories, and shoes (make sure you have enough to change every day, plus 1-2 days extra. also make sure you have layers like a jacket/large scarf which can also be a blanket and COMFY shoes that has room for swollen feet. you can repeat clothes so you can pack light. check the weather! bring an umbrella!), electronics (AND THEIR CHARGERS! bring a socket/voltage exchange if its different from your country), medicine (check your destinations rules on drugs. DONT ASSUME), YOUR DOCUMENTATION (passport/photo ID, visas, vax records, emergency contacts, hotel/destination addresses. keep a hard copy of it away from where you store your OG docs, and keep pictures of your documentations in your phone), and itinerary (where are you staying? do you need travelers insurance? did you call your bank so you can access your cards at your destination? what is your budget? do you need to change currency? you should have emergency money for taxis and a night at the hotel IN CASH)

pack your things into your luggage and DONT TAKE THEM OUT. for last minute things, create a separate packing list for when you leave for the airport. if you are taking a carry-on, make sure it meets airline regulations. keep all of your documents and cash in a secure location AND DONT LET IT LEAVE YOUR BODY. if you need to bring small candies and snacks (like me, i get low blood sugar easily), make sure its packaged and processed. a lot of countries dont allow meats and vegetables and seeds/grains into the country. check customs and immigration. ditto for your meds and other controlled substances and liquids. when you cross immigrations and security, make sure your water bottle is EMPTY. there are water fountains and restaurants past security. if you have a big carryon, you can carry it past security, and if the airlines have space, they usually allow you to check large carryons for free at the boarding gate, you can keep an eye/ear our for that.

usually the airline attendant will stick your checked baggage tags onto your boarding pass as a reminder for you to pick it up, so dont throw away your boarding pass! stick in your passport pages for safe keeping. make sure to stand near the first half of the loop and put really identifiable ribbons/duct tape/buckets on your bags so someone else won't walk away w your stuff. (if youre in a country famous for sm*ggling dr*gs, make sure to plastic wrap your entire luggage, some big airports have this at the lobby before check in)you will not believe the variation of black/navy bags until youve been on the strip 🤣🤣🤣 DONT bring monogrammed luxury luggages w you. thats asking you to be mugged in broad daylight. use your knees and waist and core to lift your luggage out, OR if you look sad enough, usually someone will help you (not that ive had that happen to me....many times......)

look like you know what youre doing, even if you dont! if you look unsure, pickpocketers and bad actors will target you. THUS! always do your research first. be as accurate and specific as you can. learn some helpful language phrases if its a foreign country (i.e. where is..., direction words, thank you, please, could i have...). fake it til you make it fam 🥰🥰🥰 don't draw attention, and make sure you look out for arrows and signs to tell you where to go. remember to keep your hands on your possession at all time. if youre in places famous for pickpocketers, wear your backpack in your front.

dont be afraid to ask for help from airline staff/concierge/info desk. theyre usually really friendly and want to help you! so if youre lost and dont know where your boarding gate is, or you dont know which bus to take, or you don't understand the in flight menu or need extra pillows and blankets (ask early! right after the plane levels out is usually a good time to ask)

at your hotel, make sure to sweep for cams (under mirrors/smoke detectors/paintings/tv etc.), deadbolt your door, and close your curtains. dont let strangers into your room, even if they claim to be staff. be aware of your surroundings at all times, dont talk to strangers, keep your hands on your bags, stay in public spaces, stay safe!

tldr; research lots, pack light but right, keep your documents in order, stay in reputable places and public transport, be aware of your surroundings, and most importantly, HAVE FUN! godspeed darling 🥰🥰🥰

[gaygwenpool]

*slams fists on table* MYSTELEON

I knew you wouldnt disappoint! :D  tho you already know most of these lmaoo  lotsa credit to @herbofoo anyway, i dont remember which of these you came up with but Patchwork wouldnt be the same without your Good Good Content! (And of course thanks for all your patience as i cry about comics lmao)

I’ve lost all shame long since ive started shipping them so brace yourself for the self-indulgent cheese that is Chameleon/Mysterio in my Patchwork verse. (its reallly. really Melodramatic. i gave up all pretense.. also under the cut cuz its long..)

ask meme

Who cooks:

Mysterio! Although Chameleon is objectively The Superior Cook thanks to the long years of being a servant to picky russian nobility BUT exactly because of that, he really doesnt enjoy it, even less when cooking for others and not just himself. So it is usually Beck who prepares meals (that are not bad either, they are just simpler) but as often as they can, they eat out. That said, Cham is very well aware Quentin loves his cooking so sometimes, he makes them something. (Being sick isnt so bad when it means Chammy bringin you a big bowl of hot borscht :)

On the other hand, Cham has quite a sweet tooth which Q notices Fast and decides to learn how to bake. It took more effort and failed tries than it could have, mostly because he got cocky, how hard could this be and just. kept forgetting he put stuff in the oven.. But now he makes quite delicious cookies n cakes which make Dmitri almost tear up because tasty + Quentin baked something Specifically for him?? 

Who does the laundry and other chores:

Mysterio’s laundry is usually booby trapped so he has to clean it himself and he doesnt even let Cham near it. And he keeps forgetting gadgets in his civvies. Not to mention that again, for the same servant reason, Cham really doesnt enjoy house chores in general, so he usually just gets his own clothes cleaned somewhere else (especially since his fancy suits and even fancier gowns are the highest quality and delicate materials, he doesnt even Know how to clean them..) 

As for the rest of the chores, its pretty balanced, although Cham has more of an eye for things that needs to be cleaned up (and Beck already has cooking duties) so he does a tad more. 

How many children do they have + Any pets:

In my Patchwork universe there’s a whole Thing about Leon, the Chameleon of the Ultimate universe but I’ve tried to type up a short summary and failed, it’s a long story lmao ^^;; and anyway he isnt exactly their kid, he is just much younger than them and they ended up sorta mentoring him. 

However, they have Celavi, the escaped ex-spy beluga.(Yes, it started as a joke based on this post that accidentally grew more and more serious until @herbofoo and me were too attached to let it go) She counts pretty much as their adopted daughter that they both spoil to hell and back, I mean no surprise, she saved Cham’s life once and sometimes, she helps out with heists. (Mostly for the show, you should have SEEN the look on Spider’s face when a beluga splashed him. He is used to humanoid sharks, to Hydroman.. not like. real life beluga that LAUGHS at him) Beck’s voice: “Dont you dare to insult her, SHE IS PERFECT AND FLAWLESS and A GOODNESS INCARNATE!! -she is literally a deserted russian spy that was trained to gather everything that could be used to harm USA-yea, i have a soft spot for those ;)“

She was always surprisingly clever so she never really counted as a “pet” and at one point, she even bonds with a symbiote (together they are Vague, again long story ah ha). They dont talk but have quite some range of vocalisations so communication isnt a problem. 

Who’s more dominant: 

They both have pretty dominant strong personalities (ok chameleon’s a bit more complicated with that but like.) with big egos who dont like others questioning their superiority. (Of course not at the level of like Doc Ock etc, they are surprisingly flexible and good team players that can be willing to let someone else take the spotlight if they are Nice) But the whole point of their relationship is that neither of them is dominant over the other, they get enough of that literally everywhere else. It’s very reassuring to be so sure that they are on equal footing, cooperating, no hidden nooses around their neck. Especially in their line of work of course! 

(Also, for the other interpretation of this question: anythin remotely sexual happens Pretty Late in the story and both of them are somewhere on the ace spectrum so it doesnt happen that often but they are both verses tho Beck bottoms more)

Favorite nonsexual activity:

MOVIES!! Sprawled on the giant comfy couch, closer than technically needed, cuddling and watching old movies with great special effects and/or great actors! Listening to Beck excitedly rant through the most dramatic speech of the story as he explains how the next cliffhanger is done with hydraulics! Focusing so hard on the stars in his eyes and his excited tone and gestures and just the tone of his voice you forgot to listen to the words themselves! Watching Cham’s face flawlessly mimic the faces on the screen in a blink of an eye and secretly guessing which one will he pick next. Feeling his head slowly fall on your shoulder, eyes closed, his mask smooth but not tense, instead just.. peaceful. Slight ping of annoyance, after all, this is A Classic movie dammit, but it’s gone in a second because Mitya hasnt slept since thursday and you are just relieved he is finally getting his rest. Feeling his warmth under your hand on his shoulders and suddenly never ever wanting to get up again.. EHM. anyway

PLANING HEISTS TOGETHER!! and more or less successfully executing them but planning is actually even more fun aside from the Big Reveals and Entrances which are actually harder to coordinate than one would think! 

Lots of shobiz/job talk actually, they really enjoy what they do! Lots of people already mentioned that in their hc compilations but i agree, they love goin to see all kinds of movies and plays and performances as well as acting various scenes with one another!  

Their favorite place to be together:

NEW YORK CITY BABEYY. Sure they love to travel and see other countries (and cause mayhem there) but.. they love their mess of a city, it’s never the same without the webhead around as well as the bazillion of other heroes n villains bashin each other’s heads. 

Any traditions:

Oh so many pop culture references and inside jokes, oh my god. One time, they spent the entire heist (and its planning period) speaking strictly in famous movie lines and titles, Max and other sixers tried to join but didnt last too long :’D 

Beck also has a habit of taking pictures of people with Interesting faces or styles he sees and sends them to Cham. Also another fanon classic: together they have a running game, disguising themselves as moderately famous people and the other guessing who..

Their “song”:

‘This is me’ from the Greatest Showman, i just live for the two of them singin it in Cham’s car,off key but fully immersed and living it. 

What they do for each other on holidays:

Neither of them are religious but that doesnt stop Beck from going ALL OUT at any opportunity, Sin Six doesn’t do any heists around holidays because you Know he’d make them dress for the occasion or worse, write them themed lines…  They still meet for Christmas and Hanukkah and sometimes other holidays too because this is my AU and you can pry festivities-related shenanigans from my cold, cold hands. It’s always at Beck’s place tho because he can turn his hideout into the tackiest holiday-themed showcase but he aint roping them into it.  

On the other hand, Cham despises American commercialized holidays in general and Christmas time especially, since it’s not a big thing in Russia and  also once again, he has family issues for days. (Although relatively speaking, he is pretty over these, he is not gonna like mope around or anything) 

Anyway, what they do for each other is that they try to compromise, Dmitri doesnt sneer at stupid kitsch decorations every 5 minutes and Quentin ..chills a little. :’D To be fair, Beck makes everything fun and having Cham there makes Beck appreciate the details more instead of just goin into BETTER!BIGGER! frenzy.

Where did they go for their honeymoon:

After the fuckin Ages of pinning, when they finally end up together for realsies, they wanted somethin Big and Flashy! (Well Beck wanted and Cham kinda too but also with the option to merge with the crowd unnoticed and take some chill time) Anyway they went on a whole world wide tour! Starting with a luxury cruise, they took their time, lots of crime sprees to plan and execute, lots of local shows to see, lots of dumb heroes to fool, they’re gonna have it all! 

Where did they first meet:

Around the time when Cham and Hammerhead had their criminal empire running Fisk to the ground, Otto decided the Sin Six should team up with them for their ressources needed on one heist or something. They agreed but Cham insisted on actually going in the field, it’s been a while since he really stretched his face legs like this and the mafia life was starting to bore him. Doc made him team up with Mysterio much to the fishbowl’s dismay because why do they need another disguise artist?? He is the Master Of Illusions dammit, he can run circles around this guy, what the fuck Otto?? So at the start, he pouts and fumes under his helmet and in general he is his v unpleasant self but… He can’t help but notice that the new guy is a real professional, he even uses Traditional masks, he likes the same movies… And most importantly, he is actually interested in Mysti’s craft, asking questions and even LISTENING to his long winded answers… At one point he even wondered if that X thing was meant as a HOMMAGE to the Y movie, the Six never did that!! (Usually the rest of the sixers dont know the reference, heathens, and when they do, they mock him for it, that he’s copying ideas and mixin them ridiculously.  BUT THIS GUY GETS IT!!) So it doesn’t take long for them to hit it off, of course at this point without any real Trust behind it but it’s a start. 

(Though Beck does pay a visit to Otto like, buddy pal i know you’ve been planning on manipulating these crimelords to your end somehow and honestly, any other day i’d be down, i actually had a robot prepared for my own backstab but i was thinking they werent that bad and maybe we Could hold our end of the bargain this time and just. leave each other on good terms? Mabye? Obviously it’s purely out of respect for our teammate Kraven since him and Chameleon seem to have some history, nothing more, definitely nothing to do with how bright Cham’s eyes were when i was showing him the back of my stage… ) 

What do they fight over:

this whole post has been a mountain of cheese but im bringing more! Honestly, goin through my notes on Patchwork, their biggest arguments have always been about.. the other one not taking proper care of himself :’D Or them lashing out because they were scared and worried about the other and they cant stand being so vulnerable while the other pretends it’s not a big deal because they dont know how to handle genuine concern directed at them. 

Do they go on vacations, if so where:

GIVE!!! BECK!!!! HIS!!!! ISLAND!!!!!!They actually do have one, it’s where Celavi spends most of the time and they visit her often. But never for too long, neither of them can actually spend too long doing nothing.. 

[trendingnewsb]

The Ghan expedition exploring Australia’s great ‘in-between’

From Darwin, through Katherine, Alice Springs, Coober Pedy and finally to Adelaide, the train journey offers travellers something different each day

In the boundless island continent of Australia, too often visitors and citizens fly right over the top and out of the country rather than seeing whats in the middle. Because of the vast distances of unpopulated areas, Australians and the eight million tourists who visit each year mainly travel the country by aeroplane. We hop from capital city to tourist destination only looking out plane windows to view the barren land beneath. But theres something to be said for seeing the in-between.

Thats what makes the Ghan Expedition so special. The 2,979km train journey allows its guests to see Australia unadorned. The Ghan Expedition is a three-night, four-day journey, starting in Darwin and stopping in Katherine, Alice Springs and Coober Pedy, before arriving in Adelaide. At every stop, a number of off-board excursions are offered to passengers. Most are included in the cost of the ticket, while some such as scenic flights and helicopter rides are optional extras.

There are two classes on The Ghan, gold and platinum. Gold class includes two single bunks and an ensuite bathroom with a picture window out one side of the train. Platinum class features a double bed and window views out of both sides of the carriage. I travelled in gold class and was impressed by the high level of comfort of the cabin. Space is tight but neatly used. The bed linen is hotel quality. It is folded back and chocolates are left on your pillow each night.

The Ghan is a slick operation. Operator Great Southern Rail, the same company that runs the Indian Pacific Railway, has learned how to make its passengers feel special. Nice little touches such as the Appelles Apothecary toiletry range, made from Australian native ingredients and sourced sustainably round out an excellent menu, great logistics and a clever offering of excursions to make this trip value for money.

Its not cheap (the gold class twin cabin costs $3,299 per person) but if you dont have a lot of time, its a good way to see the centre of Australia and get a taste of Indigenous culture. Its an amuse-bouche, but a splendid one.

People of all ages, classes, backgrounds and nationalities hop aboard this train. Most passengers are retirees, but younger couples are attracted by the increasing number of active off-train excursions, and the impressive food and wine menu. I met couples from Austria, UK and US, and many Australians. I met one couple celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary and another celebrating a 40th birthday.

The imposing sandstone cliff faces of Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park remind you of your small place in the world. Photograph: Jonny Weeks for the Guardian

Brits Reg and Val Snell were on their 14th trip to Australia when I met them onboard. Each trip we try to do something different, Val told me. While Reg and Val had already been to Uluru and Alice Springs, the numerous excursions available meant they were able to see new sights at every stop.

Onboard the train, guests immediately gravitate to their closest lounge car. No sooner had we had a coffee, followed by a sparkling wine, than we were beckoned off to the Queen Adelaide Restaurant one of nine restaurant carriages on the Ghan for lunch. The restaurant is the stuff of romance novels: smart four-seater booths are set with starched white linen and separated with cut-glass frames. Each booth has a full picture window: this is dining with a view unlike any other.

I chose the buffalo curry for my lunch, which had a lovely depth of flavour with a punch of spice but not too hot. In retrospect, the tomato, sweet potato and beetroot tart would have been a lighter, smarter option given we were about to get off into the searing afternoon heat for a trip to the Nitmiluk Gorge. And again, the ice-cream selection would probably have been a better option for dessert, but how could I resist the mango and lemon myrtle cheesecake?

In Katherine, our first stop, I chose the gorge cruise as my excursion. There was also an option for a cruise to see ancient Indigenous rock art, a visit to a cattle station for those who had seen the gorge before, or a helicopter or fixed-wing plane flight over the gorge.

Nitmiluk Gorge (also known as Katherine Gorge) is a natural wonder. Nitmiluk means cicada country in the local Jawoyn Indigenous language and my memory of the trip will forever be set to the soundtrack of cicadas. The gorge was formed by an earthquake, but the Jawoyn story of Bulan, the rainbow serpent, carving a path through the rock is much more interesting.

The imposing sandstone cliff faces of the gorge are extraordinary, and their orange, yellow and brown reflections on the crisp, still water remind you of your small place in the world as you cruise down the canyon between them. While flying around Uluru on day two was obviously both huge (the largest monolith in the world) and hugely impressive, the gorge cruise was my favourite off-board excursion of the trip. Maybe it has something to do with expectations, but I found the calm cruise between the imposing cliffs, along with the stories of the Jawoyn people, most enjoyable and eye-opening.

The food, wine and top-class service make the Ghan an unforgettable travel experience. Photograph: Ian Routledge/The Ghan

Then an evening surprise turned out to be the highlight of day two. We were promised an outback barbecue under the stars at Telegraph Station in Alice Springs, where you spend most of day two. Feeling tired after the flight to Uluru, and a rather abbreviated tour and lunch at the base, I was not exactly excited about a late night spent outdoors.

But after I had a hot shower (the ensuite showers have great pressure and a plentiful supply of hot water) had washed away all the red dirt that had stuck to me at Uluru, we caught a bus to Telegraph Station and I was greeted with sparkling wine and some delightful canapes, including pork belly, cured kangaroo with bush-spiced apple chutney and a lemon myrtle-infused house-smoked salmon fillet served under a majestic blue gum tree. Tired? Not me.

After a camel ride, a look around the station and more sparkling wine, the sumptuous barbecued thousand guineas tenderloin was served with jacket potato, garden salad and roast vegetables. The St Hallett Garden of Eden shiraz was the ideal match for this quintessential Aussie barbie. And just as it became dark enough to appreciate the blanket of stars we were bathed in, came the surprise an astronomy show.

Later, a band appeared and young and old joined on the dance floor. The band played so many encores that eventually train staff had to intervene to force the dancers back on to the bus so the train could depart on time. So much for an early night. Back on the train, we danced in the lounge car as the drinks continued to be poured.

Kathy Lawrence, who was on the Ghan with her husband to celebrate his 40th birthday, told me that the evening was one of the highlights of the three-week trip that had taken them to Darwin, Uluru, the Tiwi Islands and the Cobourg Peninsula. The astronomer and the live music made it a really good night, she said.

Day three took us to Coober Pedy, an outback town as famous for its underground homes as its opal mines. Coober Pedy is something you should see once, but once will probably do. Its a harsh town, hot and dry, and bleeding stories of fortunes won and lost. People come here to hide, a staff member told me, and it was not hard to believe. No one would come looking here even the wind turbine looked sad.

All the passengers I spoke to were fascinated by the place, though. The temperate underground homes and churches are unique, and the opals exquisite there was plenty of shopping going on. A Greek lunch of marinated octopus, souvlaki and salad in an underground mine was lovely, but the highlight of the day was a drive out to the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park to watch the sun set over the glorious, multicoloured hills and surrounding desert, washed down with a sparkling wine, of course. (No more alcohol, I heard one passenger groan but with all food and alcohol included in the ticket price, there was not much complaining.)

The high level of comfort of the cabin is impressive, and although the space is tight, its neatly used. Photograph: Heather Dinas Photography/The Ghan

Back at the train, we had some time before we had to board once more, which granted me the luxury of checking out the engines. With 295 guests onboard and 50 staff, the Ghan has two locomotives with diesel electric engines that weigh 132 tonnes each and have 4,400 horsepower. On the flat track of the Ghan, the second locomotive is only for backup, while on the Indian Pacific, it is used to help get up hills. At 1,800m long, it is as long as a train gets, Kingsley Schupelius, one of the drivers, tells me. With the beautiful scenery, he loves the job, which is fortunate because hes been doing it for 36 years. But even that level of experience cant stop you from hitting the odd animal.

You see a lot of wildlife, he tells me. Its mainly kangaroos and camels that get hit, which seems a shame since the trip is named after the cameleers who came to Australia with their camels from 1839 to help carry goods for explorers venturing inland. (The cameleers were believed to be from Afghanistan and nicknamed Ghans by the locals, although they hailed from all over central and middle-eastern Asia.) You know, night-time, you flash your lights, blow your horn, but you cant [miss], Kingsley says. Its dark and there are bushes around.

At almost 2km in length, the Ghan heads north across Northern Territory. Photograph: Tim Wimborne/Reuters

Theres a sombre mood in the lounge car that night, and not only because Ive re-told the drivers story of kangaroos and camels getting stuck underneath the train. Weve become a little pack, those of us who share dinner time and end up back in the lounge afterwards. Some people Ive been on several excursions with. Weve seen so much, weve explored the red centre and gazed at the stars, weve danced and sung and watched awe-struck this beautiful country, which no longer feels so barren. It will be hard to say goodbye the next day, but the memories of the in-between will last a lifetime.

Gabrielle Jackson travelled as a guest of Great Southern Rail.

2017/18 Ghan Expedition prices are:

Platinum Service: $5,239pp Gold Twin Service: $3,499 pp Gold Single Service: $3,139pp

All food, drink and most excursions are included. Advance purchase discounts available for bookings made six months in advance.

The 2017 Ghan Expedition season runs from 3 May to 25 October 2017. All southbound journeys are four-day/three-night Ghan Expedition journeys. All northbound services year-round are standard Ghan journeys, which are three days/two nights. Outside of Expedition season, the southbound services also operate on the standard three-day/two-night itinerary. The Ghan departs Adelaide every Sunday and Darwin every Wednesday.

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[trendingnewsb]

The Ghan expedition exploring Australia’s great ‘in-between’

From Darwin, through Katherine, Alice Springs, Coober Pedy and finally to Adelaide, the train journey offers travellers something different each day

In the boundless island continent of Australia, too often visitors and citizens fly right over the top and out of the country rather than seeing whats in the middle. Because of the vast distances of unpopulated areas, Australians and the eight million tourists who visit each year mainly travel the country by aeroplane. We hop from capital city to tourist destination only looking out plane windows to view the barren land beneath. But theres something to be said for seeing the in-between.

Thats what makes the Ghan Expedition so special. The 2,979km train journey allows its guests to see Australia unadorned. The Ghan Expedition is a three-night, four-day journey, starting in Darwin and stopping in Katherine, Alice Springs and Coober Pedy, before arriving in Adelaide. At every stop, a number of off-board excursions are offered to passengers. Most are included in the cost of the ticket, while some such as scenic flights and helicopter rides are optional extras.

There are two classes on The Ghan, gold and platinum. Gold class includes two single bunks and an ensuite bathroom with a picture window out one side of the train. Platinum class features a double bed and window views out of both sides of the carriage. I travelled in gold class and was impressed by the high level of comfort of the cabin. Space is tight but neatly used. The bed linen is hotel quality. It is folded back and chocolates are left on your pillow each night.

The Ghan is a slick operation. Operator Great Southern Rail, the same company that runs the Indian Pacific Railway, has learned how to make its passengers feel special. Nice little touches such as the Appelles Apothecary toiletry range, made from Australian native ingredients and sourced sustainably round out an excellent menu, great logistics and a clever offering of excursions to make this trip value for money.

Its not cheap (the gold class twin cabin costs $3,299 per person) but if you dont have a lot of time, its a good way to see the centre of Australia and get a taste of Indigenous culture. Its an amuse-bouche, but a splendid one.

People of all ages, classes, backgrounds and nationalities hop aboard this train. Most passengers are retirees, but younger couples are attracted by the increasing number of active off-train excursions, and the impressive food and wine menu. I met couples from Austria, UK and US, and many Australians. I met one couple celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary and another celebrating a 40th birthday.

The imposing sandstone cliff faces of Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park remind you of your small place in the world. Photograph: Jonny Weeks for the Guardian

Brits Reg and Val Snell were on their 14th trip to Australia when I met them onboard. Each trip we try to do something different, Val told me. While Reg and Val had already been to Uluru and Alice Springs, the numerous excursions available meant they were able to see new sights at every stop.

Onboard the train, guests immediately gravitate to their closest lounge car. No sooner had we had a coffee, followed by a sparkling wine, than we were beckoned off to the Queen Adelaide Restaurant one of nine restaurant carriages on the Ghan for lunch. The restaurant is the stuff of romance novels: smart four-seater booths are set with starched white linen and separated with cut-glass frames. Each booth has a full picture window: this is dining with a view unlike any other.

I chose the buffalo curry for my lunch, which had a lovely depth of flavour with a punch of spice but not too hot. In retrospect, the tomato, sweet potato and beetroot tart would have been a lighter, smarter option given we were about to get off into the searing afternoon heat for a trip to the Nitmiluk Gorge. And again, the ice-cream selection would probably have been a better option for dessert, but how could I resist the mango and lemon myrtle cheesecake?

In Katherine, our first stop, I chose the gorge cruise as my excursion. There was also an option for a cruise to see ancient Indigenous rock art, a visit to a cattle station for those who had seen the gorge before, or a helicopter or fixed-wing plane flight over the gorge.

Nitmiluk Gorge (also known as Katherine Gorge) is a natural wonder. Nitmiluk means cicada country in the local Jawoyn Indigenous language and my memory of the trip will forever be set to the soundtrack of cicadas. The gorge was formed by an earthquake, but the Jawoyn story of Bulan, the rainbow serpent, carving a path through the rock is much more interesting.

The imposing sandstone cliff faces of the gorge are extraordinary, and their orange, yellow and brown reflections on the crisp, still water remind you of your small place in the world as you cruise down the canyon between them. While flying around Uluru on day two was obviously both huge (the largest monolith in the world) and hugely impressive, the gorge cruise was my favourite off-board excursion of the trip. Maybe it has something to do with expectations, but I found the calm cruise between the imposing cliffs, along with the stories of the Jawoyn people, most enjoyable and eye-opening.

The food, wine and top-class service make the Ghan an unforgettable travel experience. Photograph: Ian Routledge/The Ghan

Then an evening surprise turned out to be the highlight of day two. We were promised an outback barbecue under the stars at Telegraph Station in Alice Springs, where you spend most of day two. Feeling tired after the flight to Uluru, and a rather abbreviated tour and lunch at the base, I was not exactly excited about a late night spent outdoors.

But after I had a hot shower (the ensuite showers have great pressure and a plentiful supply of hot water) had washed away all the red dirt that had stuck to me at Uluru, we caught a bus to Telegraph Station and I was greeted with sparkling wine and some delightful canapes, including pork belly, cured kangaroo with bush-spiced apple chutney and a lemon myrtle-infused house-smoked salmon fillet served under a majestic blue gum tree. Tired? Not me.

After a camel ride, a look around the station and more sparkling wine, the sumptuous barbecued thousand guineas tenderloin was served with jacket potato, garden salad and roast vegetables. The St Hallett Garden of Eden shiraz was the ideal match for this quintessential Aussie barbie. And just as it became dark enough to appreciate the blanket of stars we were bathed in, came the surprise an astronomy show.

Later, a band appeared and young and old joined on the dance floor. The band played so many encores that eventually train staff had to intervene to force the dancers back on to the bus so the train could depart on time. So much for an early night. Back on the train, we danced in the lounge car as the drinks continued to be poured.

Kathy Lawrence, who was on the Ghan with her husband to celebrate his 40th birthday, told me that the evening was one of the highlights of the three-week trip that had taken them to Darwin, Uluru, the Tiwi Islands and the Cobourg Peninsula. The astronomer and the live music made it a really good night, she said.

Day three took us to Coober Pedy, an outback town as famous for its underground homes as its opal mines. Coober Pedy is something you should see once, but once will probably do. Its a harsh town, hot and dry, and bleeding stories of fortunes won and lost. People come here to hide, a staff member told me, and it was not hard to believe. No one would come looking here even the wind turbine looked sad.

All the passengers I spoke to were fascinated by the place, though. The temperate underground homes and churches are unique, and the opals exquisite there was plenty of shopping going on. A Greek lunch of marinated octopus, souvlaki and salad in an underground mine was lovely, but the highlight of the day was a drive out to the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park to watch the sun set over the glorious, multicoloured hills and surrounding desert, washed down with a sparkling wine, of course. (No more alcohol, I heard one passenger groan but with all food and alcohol included in the ticket price, there was not much complaining.)

The high level of comfort of the cabin is impressive, and although the space is tight, its neatly used. Photograph: Heather Dinas Photography/The Ghan

Back at the train, we had some time before we had to board once more, which granted me the luxury of checking out the engines. With 295 guests onboard and 50 staff, the Ghan has two locomotives with diesel electric engines that weigh 132 tonnes each and have 4,400 horsepower. On the flat track of the Ghan, the second locomotive is only for backup, while on the Indian Pacific, it is used to help get up hills. At 1,800m long, it is as long as a train gets, Kingsley Schupelius, one of the drivers, tells me. With the beautiful scenery, he loves the job, which is fortunate because hes been doing it for 36 years. But even that level of experience cant stop you from hitting the odd animal.

You see a lot of wildlife, he tells me. Its mainly kangaroos and camels that get hit, which seems a shame since the trip is named after the cameleers who came to Australia with their camels from 1839 to help carry goods for explorers venturing inland. (The cameleers were believed to be from Afghanistan and nicknamed Ghans by the locals, although they hailed from all over central and middle-eastern Asia.) You know, night-time, you flash your lights, blow your horn, but you cant [miss], Kingsley says. Its dark and there are bushes around.

At almost 2km in length, the Ghan heads north across Northern Territory. Photograph: Tim Wimborne/Reuters

Theres a sombre mood in the lounge car that night, and not only because Ive re-told the drivers story of kangaroos and camels getting stuck underneath the train. Weve become a little pack, those of us who share dinner time and end up back in the lounge afterwards. Some people Ive been on several excursions with. Weve seen so much, weve explored the red centre and gazed at the stars, weve danced and sung and watched awe-struck this beautiful country, which no longer feels so barren. It will be hard to say goodbye the next day, but the memories of the in-between will last a lifetime.

Gabrielle Jackson travelled as a guest of Great Southern Rail.

2017/18 Ghan Expedition prices are:

Platinum Service: $5,239pp Gold Twin Service: $3,499 pp Gold Single Service: $3,139pp

All food, drink and most excursions are included. Advance purchase discounts available for bookings made six months in advance.

The 2017 Ghan Expedition season runs from 3 May to 25 October 2017. All southbound journeys are four-day/three-night Ghan Expedition journeys. All northbound services year-round are standard Ghan journeys, which are three days/two nights. Outside of Expedition season, the southbound services also operate on the standard three-day/two-night itinerary. The Ghan departs Adelaide every Sunday and Darwin every Wednesday.

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