#simplicity 8447

[meneatyoghurt]

Simplicity 8447 trousers. Gabardine twill with vintage mother of pearl buttons. Made a couple of changes like flat felling the inside leg and crotch seams and switching the front patch pocket for a side pocket, as well as downsizing because I didn't like the way the waist band stuck out on the larger size (which is possibly more authentic to the time period but it's my make so...)

Overall pretty happy with them. They're comfy.

[fitzwibble]

Performing a FBA on Simplicity 8447 is a Whole Process and here’s how you do it

Part 1, where I figure out the bust and waist ease of the bodice because the pattern doesn’t have that info

Even though I’m planning to adapt this pattern to make a different thing, I’m doing the FBA and pattern alterations as though the overalls are endgame, because I DO plan to make them eventually. Once I’ve got the bodice fitted for the overalls THEN I’ll go about raising the height at the back and underarms and figure out where the front closure will go.

I’m starting with the Size 18. The full bust measurement for this size is 40″ (which corresponds to my overbust measurement), and my full bust measurement is 44″. This means I need to add 2 inches to either side of the bodice in this procedure. After I add this width, I then need to remove 1/2″ at the waist seam on either side to make sure the final result will be 39-1/4″ when combined with the waist seam of the full back piece. One thing to note is that a larger portion of the waist seam will be on the front of the bodice, so I will have to modify the side seam of the pants to match. That is a problem for another day.

Performing a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on this pattern needs more steps than usual because 

the pattern doesn’t mark the bust apex so you have to find it yourself

the only dart points towards where the armscye would be on a full shirt, and the standard method needs a side seam/bust dart

This means my procedure is going to be:

Fold the darts and hold the pattern up to myself to mark the bust apex(es)

Measure the length of the waist seam at the seam line (NOT INCLUDING SEAM ALLOWANCE) with a tape measure or French curve to figure out if I need to remove some of the added width at the waist seam.

Open a dart in the side by closing the dart at the armscye

Perform FBA

Transfer side dart back to armscye location

TEST NEW PATTERN ON JUNK FABRIC

HERE I CATALOGUE THAT PROCESS WITH PICTURES

Marking the Apex Points:

MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS IN THE BRA YOU WEAR MOST OFTEN

I marked all the seam lines on the pattern (5/8″ from the edge)

First I measured the separation of the two apex points on my body (approximately nip to nip), which came out to 9 inches. 

I placed the bodice pattern at the level where I wanted the top to sit and measured down to the fullest part of my bust (6 inches, the bodice sits quite high on the model).

On the pattern, I measured down 6 inches from the seam line at the centre front and drew a line across 90º to the centre front line, then marked points on this line 4.5″ (half apex-to-apex measure) on either side of the centre front line.

I drew lines perpendicular to the apex-to-apex line (and parallel to the centre front line) that go to the bottom of the pattern, and lines connecting each dart point to the corresponding apex

Result:

Full Bust Adjustment

1. (Moving the dart to the side seam) Cut the pattern along the centre fold of the dart to the dart tip, then along the line connecting the tip to the apex. Fold the flaps along the dart legs to the back so there’s an empty triangle where the dart should be

2. (Moving the dart to the side seam) Slash a line from the side seam (about 1.5 inches down from the edge) to JUST BEFORE the dart apex, so that there’s a little paper hinge connecting the resulting triangle of paper to the apex. (IMPORTANT)

3. Pivot the triangle to close the original dart and place a small piece of tape to hold it closed at the seam line (this will function as a hinge for the FBA). Don’t tape anything else. The darts are now at the side seam.

4. Continue the cut from the original dart along the line from the apex to the waist seam. DO NOT SEVER THE HINGE CONNECTING THE SIDE DART TO THE OLD DART. The pattern should look like this:

5. I need to add 2″ on each side, so I took a couple pieces of paper and drew two parallel lines spaced 2″ apart as a guide. Align the vertical cut of the centre panel with one of the lines and then use the hinges to pivot the lower side panels out and down to align with the other line. Tape the vertical edges to the paper, but not the upper portion yet.

6. Slash a line a couple inches above the waist seam of the centre panel and shift the slashed piece down to match the seam line of the side panels. LIGHTLY tape this down, you might want to adjust this later. (I used a French Curve to position it). Adding more length in the front like this accounts for the increased surface area of The Boobs.

In a normal FBA you’d then redraw the dart legs. HOWEVER! in this case we want to move the darts BACK to the original position. But here’s the tricky part: the dart apex symmetry is now split! The apex points on the centre panel are the “true” apex, but as far as the side dart is concerned, the hinge point is the apex. If you try to slash new lines to the true apex to close the side dart your side seam won’t line up, because the top leg is now much shorter than the bottom leg. GEOMETRY!!!! So instead:

7. Remove the tape closing the legs of the original dart and pivot the side dart closed using the hinge, and tape in place. We still can’t redraw the dart legs just yet without some wizardry because the distance from seam line to apex is still different lengths, but at least the side seam is as it should be.

8. Removing fullness from the waist: typically you’d add a waist dart by drawing a dart the right width with the point a certain distance from the apex, but I decided to try to keep this as a single dart pattern (for now) and did the same slash and pivot manoeuvre to move the fullness into the top dart (NOTE: this can also be used to transfer some of that arm dart fullness to a vertical dart if you decide to make this into a two-dart pattern, which I eventually did)

Redrawing the dart legs:

For Reasons I chose to have the dart point towards the bust line rather than the apex itself, but I decided after making a mockup that I didn’t like how that looked and my next draft will have it pointing towards the apex following the line of the original dart on the top.

9. Once you’ve picked out where your new dart tip is, (the standard recommendation is 2 inches from the apex for busty people, but my bust is quite rounded so I ended up moving it closer on this first draft).

10. Draw a line connecting the seam line circle mark of the top dart leg to this point. Measure the length of the line, then rotate the ruler to measure the same length from this point to intersect with the line on the side panel. The dart legs NEED to be the same length. You can use a compass centred on your dart point to figure out where the intersection point is

11. Redraw the top seam line on the side panel to intersect with the top of the side seam.

It’s a good idea to trace your altered pattern at this point, in case you want to adjust the position of the dart tip later (I definitely did). If you fold the dart legs closed, the two parts of the top seam are now at different angles on either side of the dart instead of straight across like on the original pattern. 

There are two options: 1) close the dart and trace straight across from the large circle to the top of the side seam or 2) use a French curve to blend the two lines. I decided on the second option because it preserves the sharp point where the straps connect to the bodice. The first option would’ve eliminated that because my adjustment was pretty large.

RESULT, ready for mockup:

And mockup, (made from fabric that was on our old couch 25 years ago) I tweaked the darts a little by ripping them out and redrawing them to blend them with equivalent darts that had their dart point a half inch back. This definitely improved things, but in my case I think it would be more flattering if I move some of the dart width to a waist dart, which will add more underboob shaping. I’ll post about that process also. (I clipped out the excess fabric in the darts so I didn’t have a huge flap getting in the way)

**EDIT: In retrospect, looking at these pics a couple months (and another mockup) later I think I can fix the dart weirdness by scooching the tips back an inch or more, so that the tip is actually 2.5 inches or so away from the bust apex. Being as close to the rounded part of the bust as they are is what’s causing the puckering despite my care in tapering the tips. Did I mention I’m a novice? Because I’m a novice.

[inkofamethyst]

August 15, 2021

Me: I think Jean Luc Picard confuses emotional maturity/having control over his emotions with his abhorrence for being vulnerable with other people.

Also me: Confuses emotional maturity/having control over my emotions with my abhorrence for being vulnerable with other people.

Now, the question is whether I’m projecting or whether I’ve found a character I relate to.

Update: I think I’m projecting.  Cpt Picard can be vulnerable, but he puts his position as captain first and believes that a more stoic appearance allows him to best perform his duties.  At least, that’s what I’ve gathered so far.

--

I have a week left to finish the final few episodes of Star Trek: The Next Generation before I head back off to school and hhhhhhhh there are so many things that I am just not looking forward to :D

I don’t want ST:TNG to end because I love it so much.  The only consolation I have is that apparently there’s a movie for it too.

I honestly am not looking forward to moving into the apartment.  I am 68% sure that everything will turn out just fine.  That leaves almost a third of me which is convinced that this living arrangement will devolve.  I know that I’m not particularly argumentative and will generally try to avoid conflicts as best as possible, but I can be passive aggressive, and I am hardheaded.  

I have to start and finish the dang paper to complete my internship.  I’m going to start on a draft tonight.  Right after I complete this entry, I... promise(?).  Doing it will be fine, it’s just starting it.

I have to wash and style my hair this week.  I intend to buy some hair this week sometime.  It’ll take a while, I’m sure, because I’m doing medium-sized twists this time instead of jumbo ones, and I don’t intend to blow dry my hair (idk, maybe I’ll get my mom to do it for me, but I’d really prefer to not resort to heat again so quickly, you know?).  I’m taking hair stuff with me, but I don’t actually want to take out the hair for a solid six weeks.

I also need to pack and I need more shorts and this is actually a legitimate issue.  Like, I stopped wearing super short shorts (for a few reasons: they’re super modern-looking lol, I was always self-conscious about the ~hair down there~), so now I’m down to like, four pairs of decent shorts.  I wish I’d made some skirts that end right below the knee (I only have one and it doesn’t fit quite right plus it’s a bit warmer), but alas.  

I need a to-do list and a to-buy list. (update: I’ve started a to-do list an a to-buy list)

Kinda want a teacup lol.

Anyway back to my worries.

I want to bring the waistcoat with me to school as a project that I work on before bed or something.  But I’d like to have the lining fabric and I need more cotton drill because the yard I bought seriously shrunk.  I also need to get some bias tape to finish off quite a few projects and some buttons and I honestly just need Joann to come in clutch for me this week with their sales.  (pretty low on the list of worries btw)

Back to the shorts issue, I’m considering both buying and making some shorts, actually.  One of those pairs being from linen.  I only need two yards of fabric to make a pair of shorts, and it’s honestly not a very time-consuming project,, so (the most complex part might be getting the pockets right, especially since I intend to use French seams and would like to have a side button placket since I’ve no clue how to do a zipper fly (though, I intend to try a different pattern (a vintage one!!) than Simplicity 8447 (a roomy repro), so that means a mockup which will eat up an afternoon/evening)).  Of course, that all depends on whether I’m able to get every other pressing matter fixed this week (mainly the paper and my apartment purchases and my hair). ://

It’s been quite a while since I’ve procrastinated a paper lol.  Not the first time, won’t be the last :/  I’ve written plenty of decent papers post midnight, what’s one more?  I need to make it look like I’ve edited it though which will be somewhat tricky, I think.  Eh, my writing ability tends to be good enough that a first draft for me can pass as a second draft for many, so a reviewed first draft might pass as a third draft, perhaps?  Looks like I’ll be up ‘till 4 again (funny thing is, for the past two weeks I’ve been waking up at 9:30 every day without an alarm, so we’ll see if that holds up).

Also, I only have two Halloweens left on campus (assuming we don’t get sent home by mid-october this year lol (actually not “lol” because I’d be losing money on this apartment)), and I have no idea what I’m going as bruhhh.  I’m a whole sewist and I ain’t made a costume (tbh I’d probably do something Star Trek related and all (I’ll be hanging my Starfleet banner in my apartment which is, at least, something to look forward to in the move, I suppose), but I feel like that’d come off as sorta lame lol), shameful.  This, compared to the other things I’ve mentioned, is quite low on the worry list, I’ll be honest, but it’s there nonetheless because who am I without my unnecessary worries :) (yes I recognize that I should not have unnecessary worries in the first place,, let me be; as y’all can see I’ve got bigger fish to fry than my mental health rn).

AGH I’ve got a couple of big emails to send tomorrow.

I also need to start on my Notion.  Maybe I’ll do that while I’m on campus.  It takes a solid few hours to do, but I’ve got a decent idea of what I want which is good.  I also need to finish that Witcher prequel that I started on vacation.  I wasn’t hooked on the plot, per say, but I do really like Geralt as a character.

Ok ok ok today I am actually thankful for the motorized face brush I managed to find today for a decent price because I’ve been looking for one for ages and I managed to get one today :)  My skin has been pretty clear these past few months, but now that I’m stressin I gotta make sure it stays that way feel me?

I hate that moving back to campus gives me an icky feeling.  With covid and the apartment and note-less exams... it’s probably nothing.  This whole upcoming week gives me an icky feeling.  I just don’t like uncertainty.  No one does, I suppose.

I wanna find a place on campus or close to campus where I can just chill out with my uke next week with no one around.  Ain’t no way I’mma just hole up in my room until the freshmen show up and the uni starts putting on events.  Gotta fill the day some way, especially since I won’t have access to streaming services (@ my dad who hoards the passwords).

Oh!  Oh!  I do think I wanna try joining the archery club this coming semester (if they decide to continue this sem)!!  They say they welcome beginners who don’t even have equipment, so !!!  I think it could be cool!

Aight I’ve put off starting this paper long enough bye.

[carolasindelar]

Plus Size 18W to 24W Shirt Jacket Skirt Shorts and Tank Top UNCUT Simplicity 8447 elastic waist and pull on skirt and shorts https://ift.tt/2Mn2V41

[arseniccupcakes]

What's the number of the simplicity pattern you used for the overalls you just made? I've been looking for a good one and those are super cute!

It's simplicity 8447! It's a 1940s repro pattern and really great!

[pattern-walk]

Just Pinned to Newest Sewing Patterns: Simplicity 8447 Skirt, Short, Tank Top, Shirt-Jacket Size: FF 18W-24W Uncut Sewing Pattern https://is.gd/QSt18m #SewingPattern, #Simplicity Pattern-Walk http://bit.ly/2IK3wuD

[livingwellworld]

Simplicity Misses' Pants Overalls & Blouses Fabric Sewing material Pattern #8447 Best Ever ! $4.99 https://ebay.to/2Y4fzJk

[moondancercrafts]

8447, Simplicity, Women's, Rosie the Riveter, Overalls Pattern, Vintage Pants Pattern, Vintage Blouse Pattern, 40's Fashion, 40's Style by MoonDancerCrafts https://ift.tt/2zgMfYu

[fitzwibble]

Fitz’s magical sewing frankenstein adventure (featuring Simplicity S8447)

So I’ve been wanting to sew my own clothes for a while, because a lot of the time when I’m trying to buy clothes I 1) have a hard time finding styles I like and 2) I run into numerous fit issues because a) I am Ye Busty and b) I have a teeny tiny ribcage. These combine in such a way that if I find something that looks nice in the back, it cannot accommodate the Boobs of Doom, and if it can close over the Boobs of Doom without gaping it is way too broad in the shoulders. Cue up my obsession with historical sewing youtube and A DRESS THAT RACHEL MAKSY MADE FROM A TABLECLOTH and now it is my sole purpose to have a version of that dress in my possession.

Unfortunately that dress is made from a vintage pattern so getting it myself is a no go, but I DO have a pattern for a pair of vintage overalls with a similarly-shaped bodice AND instructions for drafting an A-line skirt are on the internet! HUZZAH!

BEHOLD SIMPLICITY 8447!

This is a reprint of a pattern from the 1940s for a pair of super cute overalls with a side button closure. I had to order the pattern directly from Simplicity because APPARENTLY they no longer have Canadian Distributors (lame).

AND THUS MY PLAN WAS BORN:

Trace the bodice pattern in the size that matches my overbust measurement (NOT my full bust)

Perform a Full Bust Adjustment on the bodice to adjust for the fact that I Am Not A B-Cup (like commercial patterns assume) so I have it on hand for when I ACTUALLY make the overalls

Raise the height of the back to be more in line with the original dress

Draft a skirt to match my waist + ease

DRESS

I’m going to put the logic behind which size I chose under the cut and a separate post on the FBA itself because that is going to be. Fraught. But far be it from me to do something the easy way.

Links to other parts of this project: Part 2 - The One Where I Do The FBA (a WHOLE DANG PROCESS)

The Pattern Breakdown:

So while the the pattern envelope does have SOME finished garment measurements, it’s notably lacking the waist and bust for the overalls, so I went and physically measured the patterns for sizes 16-24 (subtracting seam allowance) and compared them to the size chart on the lip of the pattern envelope. Here are my findings:

The bust of the overalls has 1/2 inch of ease (!!!!)

The waist has 2 inches of ease

I think the reason for the tiny amount of ease at the bust is that the back of the bodice falls below the bust line, so there’s theoretically more ease in the bust than the measurements suggest, so it can be pretty fitted in front. 

Comparing my measurements to the sizing chart, I fall at a size 22. However, since I’m not a B-cup, I chose to trace the size 18* and perform a full bust adjustment to add 4 inches, and I will have to remove 1″ to match the waistline of the Size 22 waistband.

*I measured my torso above my breasts and picked the size with the full bust measurement that corresponded to that as recommended here

[inkofamethyst]

August 12, 2021

I just watched Bernadette Banner’s most recent sewing vlog which was sort of like a part 2 to another vlog she released about a month ago in which she designs seven projects for her upcoming to-sew list, and in this vlog she started on one of those seven projects in addition to beginning two whole new projects that were not on the list and buying fabric impulsively for one of those projects and changing her mind about a project’s construction and continuing work on a long-term project.

tl;dr I feel like I have permission to cut out the outer pieces for the waistcoat despite the fact that I am in the middle of three other “active” projects (and at least two other “inactive” projects (projects which I started ages ago but reached a point where I decided not to continue for the time being (though!!  One of those projects may transition into a sort of “active” project (I wanted to make some shorts that buttoned up the side based on Simplicity 8447 a bit ago (because I am terrified of trying to do another zipper fly), but the mockup fit weird so I abandoned it, but I may be able to franken-pattern some bits and pieces together to ultimately try again?))) plus a project that has the pattern and fabric ready and taken out, but it’s been lying on the floor because I’ve no idea how to go about effectively pattern matching, not to mention that I’m going to deviate from the pattern anyway because, you know, I’m a fool :D (ahhh and there’s also the McCall’s 8181 which is just sort of... sitting there because I don’t want to go through the trouble of actually fixing it (though I am considering testing the sleeves anyway because I might as well see if they’ll work before trying the garment again))).  I don’t even have the lining for the waistcoat omg.  Should be no problem to get though, I’m just waiting for buttons/bias tape to go on sale lol so I can pick everything up at once.

(I like how my tl;dr was longer than the initial writing itself lol)

So many of my active projects-in-progress just need buttons and/or other finishing bits.  The button-up I’m turning into a tank top needs bias tape.  The black skirt needs some buttons (I’m thinking copper/brass colored, actually) and some bias tape for the hem.  The convertible collar top (which is coming along swimmingly, by the way) only needs buttons and for me to finish the hem.  At this point, I’m just waiting for those items to go on sale at Joann :/ (and if they don’t go on sale by the time I need to head off for school, well, I might just have to buy them anyway, maybe).

Also!  I finally got the courage to put the buttonholes into the green and black patterned shirt I started months ago, and now it’s done!  There are problems, sure, but from far away, it looks nice, I think.  Next time, I don’t think I’ll follow the way the pattern has a separate piece for the button plackets.  More topstitching = more places for things to go wrong or look messy.  Maybe I should try that technique of stitching threadlessly through lined paper to help me straighten my lines.  Hm.

UPDATE: I actually still have not cut out the waistcoat at all from my fashion fabric.  Instead I cut out and began working on a vintage pattern I got off a Facebook destash for a button down skirt.  I’ve altered the pattern a bit to make it slightly gathered at the waist and I honestly don’t know how that’s going to look lol.  Didn’t maneuver the pieces quite right to get enough for a really good gather, but we’ll see how it goes.  I am doing French seams all around though which will make the finished product look quite a bit nicer, at least.

Anyway now I’ve got four active projects.  As one does.  To be fair, I’ve been heavily thinking about how to properly handle this skirt pattern I’ve just started on for a few weeks, so.  I expect that I should be able to finish it within the next few days though.  In between preparations for move in *shudder*.

I’ve also been thinking a lot about what I’m going to do with the excess fabric after I cut out the waistcoat pattern.  I anticipate having at least two yards left, and I could either do a modernized walking skirt or a half circle skirt.  Honestly?  As cool as it would be to try out a walking skirt style for the first time, I anticipate that the half circle would simply get more wear.  Honestly, that’s more important to me, so I’m leaning toward the half circle skirt.  Then I could wear the items as separates instead of as a suit all the time.  Probably.  Not sure exactly how a houndstooth skirt will look as a separate, but time will tell.

Today I’m thankful for... for last night’s sleep in my own bed with my own pillow.  Off to do that again.

[inkofamethyst]

April 25, 2021

I... I don’t think I’ve ever come across any man who makes content about how guys should carry themselves while dating who isn’t a misogynist to some extent.  Every once in a while you come across advice given from one “successful” man to an audience of non-successful men, right?  That “successful” man is almost always young-ish, perpetually single but often hooking up, and tends to promote a... skewed view of women.  Specifically ~Western women~.  Often the audience is made of incels, honestly.  I can’t imagine any confident, self-respecting, genuine guy looking for stuff like that.  Also,,,,, wouldn’t the best source of knowledge come straight from the women you’re trying to attract?  And like, women are putting out content about what they do and don’t want, it’s just that this content is mostly shared for an audience of other women.  An audience who laughs at that content more than they learn, really.  There’s immense value in that sort of content for men who are insecure, I think.

I’m really trying to cut down on my hate-watching, though.  It gets to the point of being nonsensical indulging in content that adds nothing to my life except for strong feelings which, frankly,,,,, okay.  I think that in life we so often hunt for strong emotional feelings that even getting angry while watching someone feels like a positive rush, in a way.  I mean, how else would you explain hate-watching?  Clicking on video after video of a person that you grow to dislike more and more with every sentence that comes out of their mouth?  It makes no sense unless we feel in some way that there’s a positive benefit.  Specifically when hate-watching without the goal of developing rebuttals.

I think I just need to get better about recognizing when I start to hate-watch things.  I did this the other day actually!  As soon as I realized that I was only clicking on the person’s page to watch more of their stuff simply to get angry over it, I decided that it was not the kind of feeling that I wanted to welcome into my mental space, and I clicked off the page.  It felt good, I think.  Being more intentional about the content I take in and all.

Oh!  I do have something positive to talk about today though!  I started another sewing project on Friday (lowkey I think I might be stress-sewing... like this is my fourth project I’ve started back-to-back (actually, I started the draft of a fifth one tonight once I reached a point on this fourth one where I could no longer continue), and while part of me feels good to be busting through my stash, I also think that the fact that the semester is nearing its end is getting to me) and this time it was a collared shirt, my first-ever attempt!  A few months ago, I bought two yards of this lovely forest green floral-esque quilting cotton on Facebook, and I knew from the start that I wanted to make a top out of it.  A few weeks ago I bought a ton of patterns during one of JoAnn’s $2 sales (legit 70%-90% off), one of them being a basic unisex button up collared shirt, and I decided on a whim to have a go at it.  I had to take up the hem by four inches, but other than that I didn’t have to make any alterations to the pattern!  I pinked all my seams and most of the topstitching looks neat (though the fabric is dark enough that it’s not super noticeable anyway), but I did screw up the collar a bit, preventing me from placing a top button at the neck, and I also inverted the back pleat, but neither of these should make the shirt unwearable!  All I need now are some black buttons to finish it up!!  I’m really quite excited!  Since it’s cotton, it should be quite breathable in the warmer months, I think.

My next project in the interim are some 1940s shorts, based on the Simplicity 8447 repro pattern.  I cut out all the pieces I’ll need for the mockup, and I’ll get to starting on the draft whenever I get the time to do so.

Also, finished The Falcon and the Winter Soldier with my family yesterday.  Another very good series from Marvel.  Like, there really isn’t much for me to say, you know?  It was written so well, and I was engaged the entire time.  Man, I love these characters so much.  I think that’s what I’m thankful for today.

Two more weeks left of classes.  My grades in most of them seem okay.  Just gotta make sure I don’t slip too much.

[livingwellworld]

Simplicity Misses' Pants Overalls & Blouses Fabric Sewing material Pattern #8447 Act Quickley $4.99 https://ebay.to/2Y4fzJk

[livingwellworld]

Simplicity Misses' Pants Overalls & Blouses Fabric Sewing material Pattern #8447 Act Now ! $4.99 https://ebay.to/2Y4fzJk