#tan summer sportcoat

[classicgentlemanstyle]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: 𝅺MADISON Taupe Men's Blazer / Sport Coat, 44R.

[menswearmusings]

Dreaming of the Perfect Tan Summer Sportcoat

I don’t know what it is about a tan summer suit or sportcoat, but even when I was a teenager I liked how it looked. One of the first suits my parents bought for me when I was old enough to be part of the buying process was a shade of tan (though in a gabardine wool or something). And looking back, I think I’ve bought, worn and sold around 10 different tan jackets—all looking for the perfect one. Unfortunately the fashion cycle that makes certain color hues popular have just not been on my side this past decade. Usually there’s something about the color of the tan that turns me off—sometimes it’s too yellow, sometimes it’s too beige. Sometimes the fabric isn’t great or the style details aren’t to my liking. I think I’ve explored most of the different variations that you can in this realm. Read on for an overview of those, and at the end are links to the long list of great looking tan sport coats and suits this season from my favorite retailers.

Cotton khaki twill

The easiest to ones to find are unstructured and made in cotton twill fabric like you’d find on chinos. Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, J.Crew all make them. In fact two of the first ones I bought were cotton jackets like this. They can be a slightly more dressed up alternative to a lightweight jacket, but as a warm-weather fabric, the dense twill is not your friend. That said, since they exist on the casual end, they’re easy to throw on and look good with jeans, and even just a t-shirt underneath.

A J.Crew khaki jacket, Obidos, Portugal, 2010

Cotton suiting

Cotton suiting is also a route I explored, and in fact that was my very first foray into this realm. In 2008 I bought a cotton sateen stretch suit from Express, which I wore for a few years, including at my university graduation. Today, I’d avoid the sheen of something like that and go for Drake’s in cotton drill, which is another twill. It’s not going to keep you very cool in the hottest, most humid temps, but on the flip side it can be worn in the cold months and still look good. Drake’s creative director Michael Hill wears their cotton drill suits, and favors them because they gain so much character after lots of wear, much like a pair of raw jeans do. Other brands like Brooks Brothers, Southwick, Hickey Freeman, and Samuelsohn make tan cotton suits, too, in poplin. But of course, I prefer the style and design of the European makers.

Express cotton sateen stretch tan suit, 2009

Pure linen

Linen is the natural summer fabric choice for something like this, for those who embrace the wrinkles it brings. Heavier Irish linen has a better drape than lightweight linen like most Italian mills make, but almost defeats the purpose of linen if your intent is to have something that wears cool in the heat. Either way, a broken in wrinkled tan linen sportcoat is an awesome thing. Worn with pale blue shirt and white or off-white trousers, you can’t go wrong. I’ve never owned a pure linen jacket myself, though I almost pulled the trigger on one last season from Spier & Mackay in a light brown glen plaid fabric.

Spier & Mackay light brown linen jacket I tried but returned, 2020

Linen blends

I have, however, owned one in a linen blend, which is probably the best way to go. Wool-silk-linen is a fairly typical blend of fabrics that helps even out the wrinkle of the linen fibers while also adding visual texture all its own. One such sportcoat I had that I felt was just about the perfect color was from PoLo Ralph Lauren (I ultimately sold it because I preferred the design and styling of other makers). There’s also just a plain wool-linen, like the gorgeous and perfect Sartoria Carrara jacket at No Man Walks Alone made in a Marling & Evans cloth from last year.

Linen-blend Polo Ralph Lauren tan jacket, Southern California 2014

The most recent tan jacket I owned looked like a linen blend but was in fact something different: hemp and wool. After buying and reselling time after time and feeling neurotic about it, a few years ago I just decided to buy something and accept it. I wore it a few years but ultimately, the beige color just wasn’t my favorite. Actually I owned two different hemp jackets over the years; I’d owned then sold an earlier, chunkier fabric that was much more “greige” and was 100% hemp, which I was dissatisfied with the length of back in 2015.

Chunky hemp Eidos jacket, 2015

Finer-weave hemp-wool blend Eidos jacket, 2018

This season’s outstanding crop of tan jackets and suits

This season it’s like every shop I normally buy from has a tan jacket in a beautiful, just-about-right color. When it rains, it pours! Where were all these 5 years ago?!

That previously mentioned No Man Walks Alone x Carrara jacket is the top choice right now (though it’s sold out in nearly every size at this point).

My new favorite entry-level tailoring shop Natalino has a pure linen jacket in what they call “rope” that looks very appealing in the studio photos.

Drake’s is also carrying pure linen suit separates in a warm shade of tan that feels just right.

The other stand-by’s for entry-level Suitsupply and Spier & Mackay typically do something in an attractive shade of tan or light brown each year, this year being no exception. Spier’s is a linen-wool blend jacket in a lighter tan called “sand.”  Suitsupply’s best offering is a light tan in an unstructured model.

The Armoury has a wonderful linen herringbone jacket (albeit in their ventless Model 12).

They also have an all-silk hopsack cloth tan jacket in their Model 3 that looks really great.

Anglo-Italian has a slightly darker tan linen herringbone in their excellent single breasted model, as well as a khaki suit.

Polo Ralph Lauren has a 3-piece suit separate in plain cotton stretch, and a jacket in a bizarro stretch fabric combo that nonetheless looks pretty good.

How about you? Does the tan summer sportcoat hold such a powerful sway over you as it does me? Let me know in the comments below! And which of the ones I linked is your favorite?

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)

If you’re just getting into tailored menswear and want a single helpful guide to building a trend-proof wardrobe, buy my eBook. It’s only $5 and covers wardrobe essentials for any guy who wants to look cool, feel cool and make a good impression. Formatted for your phone or computer/iPad so it’s not annoying to read, and it’s full of pretty pictures, not just boring prose. Buy it here.

Eidos wool solaro suit jacket I tried on in a shop and was desperately tempted by, 2017

Honey brown Eidos jacket in a super lightweight wool/silk/linen. The color of this jacket was a mistake (the factory mixed up which fabric the coats were supposed to be made in). I might’ve bought it, but my size sold out and the next size up, pictured, was just too big. 2017

Eidos beige with teal overcheck jacket in wool/silk/linen. Eidos always tended greige with their beige/tans, and I just never loved it. I sold this later. 2017

Catch and release D’Avenza jacket in a cotton blend of some kind I tried on via eBay.

This Polo Ralph Lauren wool/silk/linen jacket is probably the ideal color; I sold it only because I was starting to ramp up Italian jackets from Eidos. 2014

Totally unstructured Brooks Brothers tan canvas jacket that fit terribly in the shoulders. 2013

Read more at Menswear Musings

[nomanwalksalone]

FIGHT FOR FALL

by Réginald-Jérôme de Mans

Instead of a gentle close, summer weltered and sweltered on. Social media automatically reminded a friend that on that same date exactly a decade before, she’d written about the joys of a cooler season, the rituals of changing out summer clothes for sweaters and all the changes in clothing colors that accompanied those of the leaves around us.  Now, temperatures continued to notch the 90s under skies where the sun pounded down. 

The seasons are foundational to our idea of cycles and progress, reliable series of changes. Once we could count on the gentle ebbing of temperatures, a growing sense of relief from chokingly muggy mornings and evenings. Now, as with holidays, seasons are announced more by marketing than by breaking peace of mind: cool grey mornings start later and later in the year long after pumpkin spice ads in Starbucks windows. 

Why care, gentle readers? Because if you are reading this then fall is your wheelhouse, its months the time of #menswear man’s greatest plumage.  A plumage of not just colors (leafy oranges, rusts and pine greens accenting the usual greys and tans and blues with which we hide our shame), but of textures and materials. The tiny chains of knits of various fineness, corduroys in jewel tones in velvety wide wales, lush moleskins, shirts in thick oxford or wool-cotton twills, sportcoats in all the speckles, furriness or herringbones of tweed, pebble grains on leather boots or the luxuriantly soft suede of chukkas, to say nothing of the flourish of indulgence for which fall weather is the best excuse:  careless knots of scarves whether madder silk or cashmere, gloves to poke out of pockets in all sorts of colors and materials, the widest possible range of footwear to choose from, all the various types of outerwear from heavy cable knit sweaters to camel polo coats, double riders, quilted huskies, shearlings, and on and on… 

All of the above rely on a certain equilibrium, a transition from heat to cold that climate change threatens. Every year we know more and more scientifically about the effects of our consumption and destruction, and every year each of us learns more, anecdotally, how that manifests in our own lives.

It manifests in destructive extremes, summers of punishing heat in places that were never designed for it (anyone who’s ridden a Métro car in Paris in recent Junes will know what I mean). In brittle winters punctuated with the occasional heavy snow. And in what used to be the gentle shoulder seasons of spring and fall, the seasons that were the most forgiving to our dandified species, violence.  Violence of storms and onrushes of heat replacing chill or vice versa without time for what was once a three-month-long elegant sigh.

Even if so much of #menswear claims military origins, our favored clothing doesn’t do well in this violence. Extremely hot and humid weather simply is no place for sartorial style.  And while extreme cold and the drifts of heavy snow allow us to break out layers of cashmere, luxuriously thick overcoats and various other fopperies, in truth all of us would rather just be inside by a fire with a hot chocolate or something stronger and Philippe Trétiack’s Arnys et moi. 

So fight for fall! Make your voices heard, in order to keep deafening others with the patterns of your sportcoats! Your chukkas and commando boots may no longer be made for marching, but every step counts! If you happen to believe that dressing well is a responsibility to others, then manifest for better seasons, for responsible stewardship of our resources, for the alternative may be a world that burns.

[wedesignyouny]

Best Summer Wedding Outfits for your GROOM By Giorgenti New York

Best Summer Wedding Outfits for your GROOM!

Perfect Colors for The Classiest Weddings on the Beach!

Summer weddings are absolutely magical, and you have to make sure you’re dressed the part for these happy memories! For these weddings, lighter scale color schemes work so well with the summer feel of these weddings. Robins egg blues, blush pinks, stone light greys, and even sand tans work so well for these weddings.

Robins Egg Blue Suit and Pink Dress Shirt

The lighter blue hues work perfectly for summer weddings, especially a beach or marina wedding! These suit go great with or without ties!

Light Grey Three Piece Suit with Blush Bowtie

Stone grey suits work wonders, as they can be dressed up, or even dressed down. You can dress it up with a nice tie or bow tie, or dress it down and wear the suit with a crisp, open collared shirt with no tie.

White Paisley Brocade Summer Tuxedo Jacket

For a classier black-tie summer affair, a white-on-white printed jacquard tuxedo or tuxedo jacket is absolutely perfect for the classy couple who wants summer elegance!

Light Blue Linen Sportcoat and Light Blue Bowtie

A true aquatic themed wedding works perfectly with a light linen sport-coat and solid pair of pants. This outfit can be dressed up with a bow tie, or dressed down with no tie.

Pink/Blush Two Piece Summer Suit

Pink and blush suits work really well with a man who has a dark or tan skin complexion, as the contrast will give off a pleasing, elegant appearance!

Flaxseed Tan Linen Suit and Linen Shirt

Linen suits and shirts are perfect for the destination weddings in the Caribbean! These will allow you to stay cool and relaxed, even in the hottest climate!

WE CAN CUSTOM MAKE ANY OF THESE OUTFITS FOR YOU AT OUR SHOWROOM AT 1325 FRANKLIN AVE, GARDEN CITY, NY, 11530, SUITE 255! CLICK TO BOOK NOW!

[rogerdscotts]

Spring Must-Have: Pink Dress Shirt

from He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

Wear pink confidently

As I’ve grown and developed my style, I always try and look back to a time where I was just learning. A lot has changed. Most of what I lacked back then was confidence. I had no interest in wearing things outside my comfort zone.

Given the option, some men wouldn’t even consider wearing a pink dress shirt outside of a required uniform. The color pink has long had the connotation of being effeminate. At the risk of looking like they don’t chew leather or rub dirt on their cuts, most men stand firmly on the reasoning that wearing pink is reserved for women.

Like most things in men’s style, we typically associate colors with an appropriate season. The pink dress shirt is one of those garments whose popularity rises during the spring and summer months. Though it’s a welcomed change from your typical white or light blue, the pink shirt in a poplin or oxford cloth is as versatile all year round as it is during the warmer months.

Pink is great for any skin tone. Gentlemen with a darker complexion generally look good in lighter shades. Think sun-faded rose or light blush tones. Fairer skinned guys (or if you haven’t gotten that summer tan yet) will fair better with darker shades. Explore a color like a peach or light salmon color. If you’re unsure, a standard university striped oxford will work on just about every man.

| WEARING | Cotton/Linen Sportcoat (Similar), Bonobos Daily Grind Dress Shirt, Suitopia Suit Pants, Tan Suede Double monk (Similar) | PHOTOGRAPHY | by Victoria Saperstein

I love pairing a pale pink dress shirt with a light tan colored jacket. A jacket like this is so versatile that it can easily be paired with blue or brown trousers as well. In spring, there’s not much a cotton/linen sport coat can’t work with. I particularly love this one for its interesting herringbone texture.

Wearing a tie can feel formal, but not when it’s a summery silk knit. Brian has talked at length about the versatility of the silk knit. This green and pink combination is unexpected, but works well. Don’t be afraid of trying uncommon color pairings when you’re wearing a pink dress shirt. Think of it like you would a blue or white dress shirt.

Rather than your typical loafer, reaching for these tan suede double monk loafers was an easy seasonal choice. Worn with loafer socks of course, it’s great change up to your typical brown leather loafers. The red brick soles keeps them on the casual side, which is perfect for this overall look.

What do you think of this look? Will you wear pink this year?

Stylishly Yours,

Steven D. Elliott He Spoke Style

The post Spring Must-Have: Pink Dress Shirt first appeared on the men's style blog He Spoke Style - Men's Style, Fashion, Grooming, Tips and Advice

from Wellness http://hespokestyle.com/pink-dress-shirt-outfit-2019/ via http://www.rssmix.com/

[menswearmusings]

Win: Spier & Mackay's Neapolitan Cut Is Better Now

This season, I bought a linen-silk suit in the perfect color tan from Spier & Mackay. It has a subtle herringbone pattern and the fabric blend has a wonderful texture. I’m very much looking forward to wearing the jacket on its own, and it will be nice to have the trousers for the full suit…

Read more at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

Back From 10 Days Away

I’m back from a little more than a week away on the Gulf Coast.

I thought I’d post some fit pics I snapped while there, which I posted most days on my Instagram story. We had a wonderful time with family and friends. Our primary purpose for traveling was the same as it is every year around this time: to observe an 8-day biblical festival with great meaning and significance. So I got to dress up for services every day in addition to having fun beach-y activities. Here’s what I packed:

Tailored

A navy suit and two sportcoats—navy double breasted blazer and green windowpane single breasted jacket

Cotton-linen dress trousers x3—faded navy, rich mid-brown and off-white

Four dress shirts—white, blue, and blue/white stripes

Tan suede tassel loafers

7 ties

Casual stuff

Three sportier button up shirts—denim popover, linen fun-stripe shirt and a Leno weave striped shirt with single piece collar

Three polo shirts—navy and seafoam green

White jeans, light-wash jeans, and… a second pair of white jeans (Sid’s natural denim)

Three pairs of swim trunks

White espadrilles, flip flops and Birkenstock’s

It was basically the last hurrah for cotton-linen trousers, swim trunks, linen shirts and summer-weight jackets in 2020. I found the tassel loafers to be very versatile as my only dress shoes on the trip, even with the navy suit. See the results in the pics below to see if you agree.

You’ll notice a couple pics of my dad. He was able to wear a glorious faux-tweed “balloon” Ring Jacket he bought recently during the first half of the week when it was surprisingly cool and low in humidity, and he also wore a Ring Jacket calm twist navy suit; both were purchased from Supply & Advise.

Highlights of the trip besides quality time with loved ones were a 2-hour jet ski rental in the bay (this company definitely recommended if you find yourself in PCB), an afternoon pontoon rental, and racing my brother on go karts with our kids. The time off was really beneficial for me. I’m looking forward to cooler weather and all it entails; I ordered a pumpkin spice latte on the drive home to celebrate :D.

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)

If you’re just getting into tailored menswear and want to level up your style faster, buy my eBook. It covers wardrobe essentials for any guy who wants to look cool, feel cool and make a good impression. Formatted for your phone or computer/iPad so it’s not annoying to read, and it’s full of pretty pictures, not just boring prose. Buy it here.

My brother brought his glorious Seamaster Professional 300m and let me wear it occasionally.

Read more at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

No Man Walks Alone Drops Gorgeous, Tight Tailoring Collection Summer 2020

No doubt originally slated to be made and listed for sale in April before the pandemic forced the nationwide shutdown in Italy and much of the world, the No Man Walks Alone x  Sartoria Carrara tailoring collection for Spring/Summer 2020 has dropped for sale. Better late than never, as these are gorgeous, timeless pieces. Literally every single one is covetable.

If you haven’t read my review of the N.M.W.A. x S.C. tailoring line, go check it out here. Of the various full-canvas ready-to-wear tailoring lines in this general price point ($1k-1500), it’s maybe my favorite or at least tied for first. The styling is mature, the make is high-quality and done by genuine artisans with generations of skill, and the cloth choices from Greg and co. are always sublime.

This season’s is a small collection, with just three suits, three sportcoats and one pair of odd trousers.

My favorite is the sand hopsack in a Marling & Evans wool-linen hopsack. It’s the perfect shade of tan—not too yellow, not too gray (I was consistently disappointed with the shade of tans Eidos always put out, it was always more greige than anything). And it’s got some variation in the coloring with little specks that give it interest when you’re close up, but which don’t call attention to themselves from far away.

The sand has a twin in the same Marling & Evans cloth but in blue, too. Not a dark navy, though not a high or bright blue either. It’s likewise got an outstanding color variation and surface texture. As a summer navy blazer, this would be perfect.

Suit-wise, the two that catch my in particular are the tobacco linen—that ever-popular shade of rich mid brown that yearns for a tall, open collar Italian shirt in pale blue and a pair of loafers-sans-socks—and the navy in Drapers “Ascot” cloth. Greg explains of the Drapers cloth: “For those looking for a really lightweight fabric that doesn’t turn into a hot mess, this is it. Does not fall quite as hard as fresco but exponentially softer.”

Rounding out the collection is a sportcoat in a lightweight gun club check made of tan and charcoal, a suit in lightweight tan cotton gabardine, and a pair of trousers in the Drapers Ascot cloth in a taupe brown.

Check out the full collection here. And you can see their tailoring from the prior seasons here (in case you’re thinking ahead already to colder temps).

Which is your favorite of the whole collection?

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)

Read more at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

Profile in Style—Ahmed From Qatar

One of the nicest things about the age we live in, with the technology we have, is being able to connect with people we’d never in a thousand years prior have made connections with. Not only that, but to learn and find common interests with those people. In Florence at Pitti last month, I met all kinds of people I instantly had a camaraderie with simply because we were both Styleforum members, or followed each on Instagram. It’s something truly wonderful that’s somehow easy to take for granted.

One man the miracle of the Internet has connected me with is Ahmed from Qatar, who goes by the handle _a_1970 on Instagram. I’ve been following him for about a year, ever since the guys at Anglo-Italian posted a photo of him (cropping his head, as he often does) in their shop. Besides Anglo-Italian, he posts photos wearing clothes from bespoke tailors like Dalcuore and Zizolfi.

His style is compelling to me for its easiness and simplicity. Sometimes I feel like I need a bit more in my outfits: another accessory, or another layer, or something to make it stand out. But seeing Ahmed’s fits reminds me that finding your uniform and nailing the basics is about as radical act as you can do.

Ahmed in a bespoke jacket by The Anthology. Photo courtesy Charles Yang.

You’ll typically see him wearing a sportcoat, open-collared shirt (or polo or turtleneck) and odd trousers. He doesn’t usually wear colors outside the menswear pantheon of navy, forest and olive greens, maroons, tans, browns, and grays. But what I like in particular is how he combines those colors in a way that I wouldn’t think to do, making it look natural and effortless. Often I’m too afraid to wear more than one dominant color, so I tend to go subdued or tonal with everything else. You’ll see Ahmed combining two or sometimes three colors with ease, naturally pairing complementary or tertiary colors, and it doesn’t look busy nor do the undertones clash.

I also think part of the appeal of his style to me is that he subtly subverts expectations one might have for someone his age. Pairing a polo shirt or washed denim button-up with a jacket isn’t something you see every day on an older man; on him, it adds a little youthful energy to his tailoring (as he says below, 1940s/50s elegance with a modern twist).

I also think he’s a poster child for soft Italian tailoring. Even devoid of personal context, I can tell he is comfortable. Once again, one might think someone his age should be wearing strong-shouldered, structured jackets to compensate for his rounded, slightly droopy shoulders. The subversion of that expectation makes his style appealing as well. Basically I want to dress like Ahmed when I grow up.

I reached out to him to find out a bit more about him, what got him interested in clothing and what some of his favorite pieces are.

Mitchell: Where do you live?

Ahmed Khalifa: Qatar

M: What do you do for work?

A: I am a developer, in the property business.

M: Have you always dressed in tailored clothing, or only recently?

A: Dressing up for work is a personal choice because I work privately. It depends on the occasion—sometimes I dress up for meetings. I have always been interested in tailored clothing, but I only found my proper style in 2016. Before, I was interested in classic menswear, but it was more about buying certain brands, not necessarily quality and fit like from a bespoke tailor.

M: What caused you to move from buying simply based on brands into choosing classic tailoring in bespoke?

A: Firstly is the fit, especially the back and the collar around the neck. It is more comfortable when it fits better. Secondly is the uniqueness of getting to choose your own fabrics and colors; I love that it’s specially made for me.

M: Who is your style icon?

A: I don’t have a particular style icon, but more of an era, which is the ‘40 and ‘50s for the classical style of people like Clark Gable and Cary Grant; I also love Steve McQueen’s casual wear. If I did have to choose an icon I would say Gianni Agnelli or Prince Charles, though honestly I get inspired by any well dressed gentlemen.

M: How would you describe your style?

A: I would consider my style a classic style with a modern twist. Like I said I have an interest in the look of the ‘50s, so I like to wear something like pleated high rise trousers with a turn up, but bring in a bit of a twist with modern colors and texture of fabrics.

M: What are your favorite shops, tailors and/or brands?

A: It’s very difficult to chose between tailors as they each have their own style, like how Neapolitan design differs from Florentine. As you can see on my Instagram I mention a lot of tailors, brands and stores. Some of my favorite brands include Anglo Italian, Spier and Mackay, Drake’s, No Man Walks Alone and Ring Jacket.

M: What are your 5 favorite pieces of clothing, and why?

A: To be honest I love everything I own! But if I had to choose I would say:

Pomella Napoli trousers in Fox Brothers cavalry twill

Polo camel coat by Anglo Italian (made to measure)

Palazi flannel suit by Giannluca X Fox Brothers, trouser by Pomello, jacket by Sartoria Ciro Zizolfi.

Raglan coat also by Sartoria Ciro Zizolfi

VBC double breasted suit by Sartoria Dalcoure.

#gallery-1 { margin: auto; } #gallery-1 .gallery-item { float: left; margin-top: 10px; text-align: center; width: 33%; } #gallery-1 img { border: 2px solid #cfcfcf; } #gallery-1 .gallery-caption { margin-left: 0; } /* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes/media.php */

Pomella trousers in white Fox Bros. cavalry twill.

Polo coat in camel by Anglo-Italian.

Double breasted suit by Dalcuore.

Raglan coat by Zizolfi.

Suit in Fox Brothers Palazzi Flannel, jacket by Zizolfi, trousers by Pommella

M: What’s on your wish list of clothing that you want to acquire next?

A: Next I’d like to get:

A double breasted made to measure suit in midnight chalk stripe flannel by Fox Brothers heritage

A double breasted linen summer suit

A summer safari jacket

M: What’s your go-to outfit, the one you tend to put on over and over again whenever you want to look your best?

A: Mid-grey Anglo-Italian flannel trousers (or any of my Pomella trousers) with a Luca Avitabile “Friday polo” (or maybe a nice Davino shirt) and a Ciro Zizolfi jacket.

M: Your bio mentions you love watches. Of the ones you own, which are your favorites?

A: My favorite watches include Vacheron Constantin 1955 ultra thin, the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso (1930’s), and my A.Lange Söhne Saxonia

#gallery-2 { margin: auto; } #gallery-2 .gallery-item { float: left; margin-top: 10px; text-align: center; width: 33%; } #gallery-2 img { border: 2px solid #cfcfcf; } #gallery-2 .gallery-caption { margin-left: 0; } /* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes/media.php */

Vacheron Constantin ultra-thin.

Jaeger le Couture Reverso.

A.Lange Söhne.

M: And what watches would you still like to acquire?

A: I would like to acquire the Patek Philippe 5140P and a JLC ultra thin.

M: Do you pick your watch based on your outfit, or pick a watch first and choose what else to wear?

A: I don’t exactly chose my watch based on my outfit. Since I tend to dress classically, I wear classic watches rather than sporty ones.

M: What about shoes, which you also mention in your bio? Which are your favorites?

A: One of my all-time favorites are the Edward Green Dover on the 606 last in brown suede. They are my go to. I also love the Saint Crispin Oxford on the classic last in snuff suede.

M: Do you pick your shoes first, or your outfit first, when getting dressed?

A: It depends on my mood—sometimes it starts with the shoes, and other times it starts with the shirt or even the trousers.

Many thanks to Ahmed for taking the timehs to answer my questions, and to Charlie for letting me use his outstanding photos of Ahmed from Pitti!

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)

Read more at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

[Updated 7-3] Spring and Summer at Spier & Mackay

Spier & Mackay is putting some early spring arrivals up for sale or pre-order (meaning you pay now and put your name on the list for delivery as soon as it’s available—usually within a couple weeks).

I’ll keep this post up to date with their latest as they come in. [Note: Since Spier & Mackay updated their site, most of my links broke; I’ve fixed most of them on this page though a few products still need updating.]

UPDATED 7/28/20: Take an extra 25% off sale items with code SALE25.

There have been a few sweet new arrivals—a couple of which are exempt from the sale—that I didn’t feature but I’m sure you’ve noticed if you follow Spier & Mackay.

Chocolate brown linen suit. I have a raw silk chocolate summer suit and it’s a really nice alternative to those more orange tobacco suits that are popular, as well as the lighter tans and creams that work well. I 100% would buy this if it weren’t for my silk suit, and even still am tempted because I love how linen ages.

Emerald green linen suit. Not a staple color by any means but if you’re like me and just like cool clothes, that’s totally OK.

Navy “mocklino” sportcoat. This is a glorious wool fabric with lots of texture that comes from its super open-weave. It’s basically hopsack on steroids, and the end result is a breathable cloth.

    [UPDATED 5/13/20: 25% off sport coats except linen ones with code BLAZER25 until 5/14 at midnight. All jackets linked here.]

[NEW 4/24/20] Two great things listed today at Spier & Mackay.

First are cotton-linen trousers, which I recommend heartily. All the colors are great, I’d start with cream or off-white and light brown; then the faded navy looks nice for the next pair I’d get.

Second are linen jackets. In particular, this navy linen double breasted blazer holds great appeal. The lapel shape and collar look basically perfect, in my opinion. I wish it had 6 buttons, instead of only 4. But that’s a personal thing, and might not bug you. Frankly, for the price, it’s something I’m tempted by since it’d be my third navy double breasted blazer.

  Also of note are some sportcoats: a tan sportcoat in a wool-cotton-linen blend, and a mid-brown one as well. Both have some great texture that’s not too out there but also a little extra. A non-Neapolitan-cut jacket in mid-brown also holds appeal as a go-to summer brown jacket. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, if I were just now building my wardrobe from nothing, there are easily 3-5 Spier & Mackay things every single season that would be insta-buys for me.

[NEW 4/17/20] Catching up with all the new arrivals since my last update, Spier’s added a few gems I’d totally buy if I were building my wardrobe anew:

Navy double breasted suit

Light blue reverse stripe OCBD (I linked this elsewhere but included it here for good measure)

White lightweight OCBD (the lightweight nature of it is a little overstated; this works year round)

University stripe lightweight OCBD

Sky blue fine twill shirt with big, sexy Italian collar (Twill’s not my favorite but it’s soft and if you like it, the collar on this is sweet).

[UPDATE 3/20/20] Spier is running a promotion on sport coats and trousers at 20% off with code SALE20.

[NEW 3/5/20]

MOAR great new arrivals at Spier today. First up, some beautiful and excellently priced washed denim shirts. Light wash in a spread collar, button-down collar and amazing-looking Italian button-down collar. Also in a darker wash denim (in the same collar options of button down, Italian button-down and spread).

And after that, we’ve got a couple new Neapolitan jackets. First a navy hopsack in a wool/silk/linen/cashmere E. Thomas fabric (looks like a really nice texture in a nice chalky, subdued, less-saturated navy color) and an E.Thomas gun club with beautiful blue over check.

[NEW 2/28/20]

Well, I’ll be: here’s a perfect mid-brown 100% linen glen plaid sportcoat in the Neapolitan cut. This one is strong in the Force, people. Paired just like they do, with a denim shirt and off-white cotton-linen trousers, you’ve got yourself an ideal summer jacket.

Also scope out the short sleeve polos in spread collar and button-down collar configurations. Long-sleeve ones layer better under a jacket but short-sleeve polos are of course summer staples in the hot weather. Can’t go wrong with navy, white and mid blue.

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)

  Read more at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

No Man Walks Alone Starts Its Summer Sale

No Man Walks Alone began its summer sale today, with up to 40% off seasonal products.

Most of note to me is that this is the final season they’re carrying Eidos. After this summer, it’ll only be the random backstock they have, which they put up for sale at their clearance events (which you either have to live in NYC to visit or have someone proxy for you). Looking at the page for Eidos, I see there are some items left from the winter collection you can still check out.

In particular look at the wool-cotton field jacket, the cotton-linen tan high-rise Sal trousers, and cigar linen sportcoat (the trousers to complete the suit sold out, sadly).

The other makers I like the most of theirs are primarily Italian, perhaps not surprisingly: G. Inglese shirt makers, Rota trouser makers,Valstar outerwear in particular. But I’m also noting: Drake’s accessories, La Portegna’s leather goods, Inis Meain’s knitwear and Norwegian Rain’s outerwear.

From G. Inglese, I like their one-piece Miami collar shirts, which are sort of in the same spirit of the one-piece collar Eidos Lupo polo. Their dress shirts are also amazing of course.

Valstar’s classic bomber the Valstarino is grail status for me; someday I will own one!

Inis Meain’s summer knitwear is all good but I like this lightweight Aran knit jumper in particular.

I want to dress with more colors outside the typical brown, blue, gray and whites I wear all the time. Or at least, in bright shades or different hues. This Calabrese pocket square would be a great pop of color, and this tobacco neat-print Drake’s tie has a fun color combination using yellow and red.

See all the sale selection here.

(Help support this site by buying stuff through my links; your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit! Thanks!)

Read more at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

No Man Walks Alone 20% Off Sale for Festa della Repubblica

In honor of Italy’s National Holiday Festa della Republicca, No Man Walks Alone is taking 20% off their entire store, including sale stuff. In years past they’ve taken the discount only on the Italian makers they carry but are extending the joy to everything. Use code FESTA to get the discount.

Obviously check out Eidos—this is the final season they’re carrying them and the last time you’ll be able to find the wide-lapel, NMWA house cut they carry.

The other makers I like the most of theirs are primarily Italian, perhaps not surprisingly: G. Inglese shirt makers, Rota trouser makers, Valstar outerwear in particular. But I’m also noting: Drake’s accessories, La Portegna’s small leather goods, Inis Meain’s knitwear and Norwegian Rain’s outerwear.

From G. Inglese, I like their one-piece Miami collar shirts, which are sort of in the same spirit of the one-piece collar Eidos Lupo polo. Their dress shirts are also amazing of course.

Valstar’s classic bomber the Valstarino is grail status for me; someday I will own one!

Inis Meain’s summer knitwear is all good but I like this lightweight Aran knit jumper in particular.

Eidos’ wool-cotton field jacket, the cotton-linen tan high-rise Sal trousers, and cigar linen sportcoat (the trousers to complete the suit sold out, sadly).

This is probably the last sale from NMWA before their end of season clearance sometime next month, so if there’s something you like in stock in your size, and you’re able, grab it before it’s gone!

(Help support this site by buying stuff through my links; your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit! Thanks!)

Read more at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

Recommends—Some Spring Drops from Brooks Brothers

Oxfords, knits, shoes, trousers and ties—these are the products I still look at from Brooks Brothers. Their Spring collections aren't usually my favorite, but I'm pleasantly surprised to see a few things I'm going to actually recommend on their site right now. In particular:

Top pick: Sondrio cotton/linen pants

They sound like the exact same fabric my Spier & Mackay linen-cotton pants are made from. They are Red Fleece, which has a slimmer, lower-rise fit. If you don't like Red Fleece's slim fit, there is another pair of cotton-linen pants in their more moderate slim-straight Clark Fit. Also in tan and a light olive color.

Clark fit cotton-linen pants

Knit Button-down Oxford shirt

Like an Oxford cloth shirt, but knit like a polo—kind of the best of both worlds, particular when worn under a sport coat. (No Man Walks Alone has carried a run of G. Inglese, hand-made knit, full-placket button-down collar shirts; Kamakura makes them; and Ring Jacket makes cutaway-collar ones,too—it's a legit product category).

Long-sleeve polo

Dress down a sportcoat with a light blue long-sleeve polo. Frankly, this in light blue or brown + the linen-cotton pants + a navy blazer is a perfect summer uniform.

Casual cotton-linen, wide-stripe sport shirt

The shorter Clifford collar bugs me—but not everybody needs that hardcore collar roll to be happy.

Golden Fleece medallion tie

The price is high, but it looks really nice.

Read the original post at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

Sale Alert—No Man Walks Alone's Sale Begins

No Man Walks Alone has begun their seasonal sale, dropping prices on not only this season’s goods but also prior season’s hangers-on.

Of note, to me anyway, is their tailoring line made by Sartoria Carrara. They did not take a fall/winter delivery for 2020 (I’m assuming the pandemic stopped production for too long to make anything happen), but prior fall/winter seasons are included as well as the spring/summer 2020 season.

The fall/winter 2019 season is the one I featured when I wrote about the line last year—the Abraham Moon navy twill tweed sportcoat I wore is included in the sale. And last summer I wrote about the summer collection, getting excited about the restrained yet super desirable small collection.

Besides that, a few random selections from the sale that caught my eye:

Pinhead cotton shirt by G. Inglese

Button-down light wash denim shirt by G. Inglese

Doppiaa navy bridge coat (this looks insane and I am shocked it’s still in stock in so many sizes)

Doppiaa plush navy blue single breasted coat

Doppiaa plush dark grey single breasted coat

Doppiaa black/white herringbone single breasted coat

Inis Meain alpaca+silk dark blue rollneck

Monitaly navy fisherman knit sweater

Monitaly navy fisherman knit rollneck

Monitaly cream fisherman knit rollneck

Portuguese flannel autumn shades plaid shirt

Tobacco linen suit

Tan wool-linen sportcoat

Dark blue wool-linen sportcoat

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)

If you’re just getting into tailored menswear and want a single helpful guide to building a trend-proof wardrobe, buy my eBook. It’s only $5 and covers wardrobe essentials for any guy who wants to look cool, feel cool and make a good impression. Formatted for your phone or computer/iPad so it’s not annoying to read, and it’s full of pretty pictures, not just boring prose. Buy it here.

Read more at Menswear Musings

[menswearmusings]

Extra 25% Off Clearance at Brooks Brothers 

My picks from a fairly decent selection of goods with lots available in a range of sizes.

Sweaters

Golden Fleece cashmere v-neck

Mainline Brooks Brothers cashmere v-neck (these are good in my experience and the price after the discount is fairly good. Not a steal but a solid deal for the quality). Also a separate product page for basic colors here for some reason.

Camel alpaca-blend cable knit

Cable-knit crewnecks in basic colors (I love this and this is what I’d buy from this sale. Awesome layering piece or good on its own with denim.)

Cashmere turtleneck 

Navy alpaca cable knit hardcore arctic sweater (only XL but it’s too awesome not to include)

Tailoring—Sportcoats

Navy/blue/red Fitzgerald-fit multi-check sportcoat

Tan/navy check with orange overcheck Madison-fit sportcoat

Charcoal windowpane Madison-fit sportcoat

Spring-summer mid-brown windowpane sportcoat

Brown check sportcoat (Milano fit, which I’d size up both in chest and length on if possible)

Dark brown/navy with orange overcheck Madison-fit sportcoat

Tan gun club tweed Own Make sportcoat (pictured above. Own Make is a made-in-USA line Brooks Brothers rolled out a few years ago with mid-century-inspired details like a hook vent and full-canvas construction. I’d recommend sizing up one size if possible)

Brown with red POW-check Own Make sportcoat

Lots of suits included in this sale. See them all here.

Outerwear

Charcoal weatherproof town coat

Charcoal wool topcoat (Red Fleece, in only one size, but looks nice if you’re that size)

Forest green wool utility coat

Navy four-pocket coat

Camel wool duffle coat

Shoes

Edward Green longwings

Edward Green suede penny loafers

Peal & Co. suede longwings

Made-in-USA pebblegrain longwings

The rest of the sale stuff can be found here.