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oneheartoneride-blog · 7 years

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Ladakh biking expedition -June 2015

It is 9th of May 2017 and I realise that I am going to pen down a dream that I have lived two years back. If you ask me what makes me to write so late (2 years later), frankly I don’t have an answer to it. May be the memories the place left, may be the want and the desire to hit back to the same roads with the same set of friends, may be for the lessons learnt during the trip, may be the happiness , peace, sanctity of the place , still not a firm answer…

The dream !!

8 years, that's how long I waited for this dream to come true. When I saw the first images of a biker posing at the world’s highest motorable road and having an elder brother who had hit the circuit an year back there was born a dream, a dream which initially was thought to be nothing more than that of a day dreamer but as years passed started to gain momentum.

Introducing myself

Looking at my name “Sriram Venkateswaran” an impression would have hit your subconscious mind, “ how can this tam brahm boy have a dream of having a road trip and that too the deadliest roads of India and that too on a two wheeler. Trust me, I got the same thoughts and more over when my friends and relatives started questioning me as if I was thinking of a suicide mission. To start with a formal introduction about myself. Here I am, A 27 years old , Aaamchi Mumbai ka ladka, qualified as a Chartered Accountant in 2012, working in one of the big 4 accounting firms, having a late father, a mother (house wife) , a brother and a sister in law.

Preparing myself

All said and done and having seen so many brave souls doing this circuit on 2 wheeler and returning alive and unharmed, was an encouragement for me. It was somewhere in mid November 2014 when I was in the office and having had the habit of reading random blogs on biking expedition, I happened to jump into this website so called “ Thrillopia” I was initially a bit hesitant to ask the team since I was in double mind as to whether I should really get into this journey. I had wanted this to be a solo trip but I somehow lacked the guts to say this to my family. I took a screenshot of the itinerary which was mentioned in the Company’s website and forwarded the same to two of my chaddi buddi friends and like minded people (Venkat aka Bala and Rahul aka Vaidu). We three had grown up together and hence knew each others likes, dislikes etc etc..Within an hours time they both gave a thumps up to this plan and set we were.

Discussion rounds

Then began we discussing the dates that would be most suitable to all three and then we made up our mind to start this journey on June 13th 2015 (the best place to visit Leh Ladakh by road since May end to August end is the time when the Manali Leh highway is cleared for commuting by the Border Roads Organization. The panning had begun and I was in constant touch with the organisers. It is said that all things doesn’t come easily.

The hurdle

Just as we thought we are all set, Bala received a call from his boss saying that he was supposed to fly to Amsterdam a week before the decided date of the trip. We were disappointed since we realized that the plan won’t get executed as we three had planned to go on this trip together. After constant discussions and seeing that it is next to impossible for Bala to cancel his official trip , I and Vaidu decided to go ahead on this trip. We discussed quite often about the trip amongst us and when we all other mutual school friends met. Two more school friends Pratima and Sandhya too were all set to join us for the trip as pillion riders. With the unexpected official trip that came Bala’s way we still decided to go ahead for this trip. Pratima also got her colleague, Vishal, a passionate biker and also dreamt of making to Ladakh on a bike, to join in for the trip.

The preparations had begun and the date we finalised was June 13th 2015. We initially had the plan to take the route viz Chandigarh – Leh – Amritsar- Chandigarh. Till the second last day there was news which kept coming on TV that the Manali leh highway (the route via the Rohtaang pass) was not cleared by the BRO. We decided to be watchful and had a plan B which meant we take the route Chandigarh – Amritsar- Leh- Manali- Chandigarh

We hired the bikes and we knew in these tough road and weather conditions, no other bike other than the Royal Enfiield bikes would sustain. Hence we decided to hire three bikes. Myself, Bala and Vishal decided to hire the bike from Thrillophilia, the adventure Company and Vaidu decided to ride his own bike. Hence he had to transport the bike from Mumbai to Chandigarh via rail.

One day before the trip we all checked if all essentials of the trip was there and the same was packed. It was going to be a memorable trip, the excitement of the trip was sky high. I hardly could have a sound sleep. A dream was about to be lived and all I had waited for the clock to tick 7 AM. I doubt if I required an alarm to wake me up, such was the excitement.

13.06.2015 : Mumbai – Chandigarh

The first morning of our Adventure, every rider was excited to start his way out. Can’t describe the enthusiasm level which was running through the four of us. Finally the day had come and we were all set to travel, to live perhaps the best days of our life, out from the city chaos and moving into a world full of peace, silence and pleasure. It was a 13.45 flight from Mumbai to Chandigarh. We reached the airport on time, got through the airport formalities quickly ..Trust me the normal Nescafe coffee at the airport never felt more refreshing... Our minds were filled with too much enthusiasm and eagerness to reach Chandigarh, collect the bikes, fill in fuel and start the journey.

The flight was on time and Indigo as usual never let us down.. We reached Chandigarh airport at around 14.50. We decided to first find the accommodation, drop our luggage , freshen up as early as possible and fill our stomach with the much delightful north Indian food…

Going a bit off the track, I cant stop myself praising the city which I always felt my second home “ Chandigarh”. Being in the audit profession I have had the opportunity to visit Chandigarh for one of the largest cement manufacturing Companies of India.. I knew almost the entire sector 17, 21, 48 ..Knew the best joints for the best north Indian food...Truly an amazing place , with one of the best hospitalities experienced..Trust me when I say this, given a chance to relocate to this place, I would be ready on one leg...

As per the plan we dropped our luggage and headed off to fill in our tummy .. It was around 16.00 and we dropped in one of the roadside restaurants in sector 14 and the city as usual never disappointed me and my friends..We had one of the best Chole Bature’s , dal rice , Aloo Tikkis at this place.. How can any meal in this city get over unless you burp after the full glass of Lassi..

We had filled in our stomach to the core and so much so that we could sit there just admiring the food all evening. However we regained sense and left for the accommodation.. Through Vishal, we managed to find a bungalow wherein we were allowed to spend the whole of day and night.. It saved the money on accommodation as we got this free of cost..

Then began the real wait, Having spoken to the organisers right since we arrived at Chandigarh, we were all eagerly awaiting our bikes from the organisers.. Myself, Bala and Vishal had rented a bullet 350 thunderbird and classic respectively. The bikes were initially were arranged from Delhi, however due to some unavoidable circumstances the same were arranged from Manali.. The change in the plan led to serious delay in the bike reaching us… However after more than 30 35 phone calls with the organiser the bikes finally reached us at around 19.45..We had planned to inspect the bike before we began our journey next day.. However it was already late evening and we hardly could see for cracks, major damage to bikes at that time.. we believed we could trust the organisers for this and heaved a sigh of relief seeing that we were step closer to the journey..

Just when things start to fall in place something has to remind us that we are humans and tensions are an inherent part of our lives.. But this one is a memory of its own, still makes us laugh out loud when we discuss this incident..

The great laughter at Cantonment road..:) :p:p

Vaidu owned a bullet in Mumbai.. He wished to ride his bike when we went on this trip. Me and Bala initially were a bit hesitant in letting Vaidu do so, since we knew the roads weren’t friendly enough and the chance of a major breakdown on the journey can lead to serious damage to the bike. However looking at the willingness of our friend we eventually ended up supporting him to get his own bike.. He had transported his bike through “Gati Courier” renowned for handling vehicles across India.. He couriered his bike for Chandigarh on 07th June 2015, which was six days before this journey.. The bike was supposed to reach Chandigarh on 12th June 2015, but to our surprise the bike had only reached Patna on 13th June 2015.. We thought there would be a delay in the start since Patna to Chandigarh is another 14 hours journey.. However the transporters kept on assuring us that the bikes would reach Cantonment road warehouse by evening 18.00 clock ..

Reality had struck us, We had two options now, either to wait for the transporters to deliver the bike tomorrow in the afternoon which meant we will not be starting our journey on time OR to travel from Chandigarh on the rented bikes which had already travelled from Manali, go to Cantonment road and collect the bikes.. After scratching our brains we decided to go ahead with the second option. Bala took Vaidu as a pillion rider on his bike and left for the destination… Depicting this epic scene, wish we could have evidenced this with the live video..

When they got there, the bike was more of a handicapped one.. The handle of the bike had got a paralytic attack and sheer scene of Vaidu carrying the bike just as a kid could drag his tricycle made bala’s day.. He couldn’t stop laughing looking at the condition of the bike and moreover of our friend Vaidu.. He was completely taken aback since it was very difficult to find a mechanic at that time, get the bike repaired and ride it back to Chandigarh… However Vaidu decided that he will still ride back on his bike following Bala on his way..

They both reached the bungalow at around 1.30 am and immediately slept off.. I was awake waiting for them and sighed a relief when they were back.. Atleast we could start our journey before afternoon next day.. We had arranged for a Break down vehicle (BDV) for our journey. The mechanic in the BDV assured that he will repair the handle and other damage parts if any, by around 8am and we can start our journey at that time…

It was already a tiring day but we had to start the journey on time. I feared the lack of sleep would result in people getting nausea and the energy before the actual ride began would be low.

14.06.2015

Chandigarh – Wagah Border – Amritsar – 320 Kms

We managed to sleep well after being assured that the bikes and the BDV were with us. We got up at 7am and it was a pleasure to see Vaidu’s handicapped bike back in shape. The mechanic “Ajay” had done a fantastic job by putting things in place. We all freshened up and set we were to kick start the journey.. We were an hour beyond the schedule but we hardly cared since we did not want the energy to go down. The energy levels were sky high, all were geared up , the safety jackets were on , the helmets (perhaps the most important safety accessory , I would say a true asset if you are a biker, the reason why I say this , wait for the moment).. We clicked pictures, recorded video with our thumps up and off we were.. The silencer started to roar…

We started the journey, we had decided to follow a formation.. Bala would be the captain, I would be his follower and Vaidu would be the shepherd.. Before the ride we had decided to hault midway for a breakfast. It was an amazing experience when we started the ride, multiple thoughts began running through our mind, the pleasure and the very thought that “ Yes, the ride had begun” , the cool winds , the overnight due still in place, the drizzling rain and the one heart one ride experience. The feeling is beyond explanation.

We rode for 15 odd kms and decided to hault for breakfast. We quickly filled our stomach with Aloo Parathas with Dahi , Maggi and began our journey to Amritsar. Chandigarh to Amritsar is a national highway NH-1 . Chandigarh as a city is very well planned with clean roads with proper directions. So even if the city has junction roads (where 4 roads meet), you don’t feel lost since the directions are available at each junction.

Soon we crossed Chandigarh and headed towards Amritsar. Being the national highway, the journey was extremely smooth, was good to get accustomed with the bikes. We took breaks to hydrate ourselves since the last thing we wanted was to get dehydrated. We stopped for lunch and post lunch continued riding along the national highway.

Reaching Wagah Border

At around 160O hours we reach Attari junction .The place is actually known as Attari Wagah Border. When you reach this place a sense of patriotism evolves. We had decided to wait and watch the Army parade. The parade happens every evening. At around 100 meters is the Pakistan border. Army men of both the countries display their strength by shouting slogans of their respective countries; they get close to each other and perform their regular parade which is a delight to watch when you have around thousands of countrymen cheering for India. I remember it was very hot day there, the sun was scorching above the head, the parade usually starts around 5.15. We still had an hour to go. We somehow managed to find a place to sit in the crowd. The parade started and we enjoyed the event thoroughly. As the sunset we reached our accommodation in Amritsar.

To our relief and joy the accommodation was hardly at a distance of 10 mins from the Golden temple. It was 1830 hours when we had reached the hotel (M.A.International). We had decided to freshen up and leave for Anandpur Sahib or the Golden Temple as it is known.

Just a few points to be kept in mind while visiting the holy place. Men are not allowed to enter in shorts (they should wear trousers, shorts, pants which covers the knee). Similarly women are not allowed to enter in skirts. Both men and women are allowed to enter the temple, however if not in proper attire, he or she can’t enter the wholly shrine area.

As per the plan we went to the temple and ate dinner at the famous “Kesar da dhaba”. Enjoying the all famous Aloo ka Paratha, Mithi Lassi and Dal Makhini was a treat to the stomach. Tired we were but still excited as we knew we were entering the heaven on earth “Jammu & Kashmir” the next day. We all bid good night to each other and went off to sleep.

15.06.2015: Amritsar – Patnitop – 280 kms

It was 0630 hours and we woke up. The sheer excitement of the day could be clearly seen in everyone’s face. The energy as always was sky high.

Patnitop or Patni is a hilltop tourist location in Udhampur district in Jammu and Kashmir State of India on National Highway 44, 112 km from Jammu on the way from Udhampur to Srinagar. Situated on a plateau in the Shivalik belt of the Himalayas, Patnitop sits at an high altitude (6,640 ft). Amritsar to Patnitop is a mixed terrain. Initially it contains a straight road but as you get closer to Pathankot (mid way) you begin to face the mountains. It is actually helpful for you as a biker as it helps you to get accustomed to the roads , the mountains and tests your driving skills before you experience the toughest roads of the country. We had our breakfasts and decided to start the journey. Midway we halted at a small roadside restaurant and enjoyed the lunch out there. We had realised that as you get closer to Kashmir, you will find more of these roadside, hut shaped restaurants but surely they serve you with mouth-watering food.

The military vehicles:-

Being a biker I have always heard that one of the treat to the eyes is to watch the military trucks pass by you and saluting the soldiers out of sheer respect. On these roads you will find more of these vehicles moving in a disciplined order and approaching Kashmir. Luckily we got to see many such trucks moving and we all decided to salute each one on our way. We can’t thank the soldiers for their selfless service but atleast you can salute the brave men who leave their near and dear ones to protect the borders of the country.

Reaching Patnitop

It was around 6 in the evening when we could find our accommodation at Patnitop. The temperature was getting colder as time passed. Would have been around 20 degrees by this time. It was a guest house and the ambience of the place was average, a dim light in the entrance, a room with normal beds, a small TV, an average maintained washroom.

We had decided to rest for the day. We all sat in one room and were chit chatting over a drink. The temperature was just perfect, just as any human being from the city chaos would love to have. A temperature of aroud 20 degrees and a glass of whisky with a soft drink set the mood for the endless talks. We enjoyed the drink and dinner. It was a tiring day and we decided to sleep off early as next day was the journey from Patnitop to Srinagar.

16.06.2015 : Patnitop – Srinagar – 185 kms

Who wouldn’t love to wake up, amidst the trees, a temperature of 17 degrees, early morning and cool wind blowing outside your accommodation. The morning was simply awesome and the sip of coffee was an icing on the cake. We ensured everyone had a good sleep as the circuit today was full of curves passing through the mountains of Banihal, Annatnag and Pampore. We decided to munchin few biscuits and leave for the journey ahead.

We started to ride at 7 am. The circuit today as per maps showed around 185 kms which was approximately 4 hours and 30 mins. But we knew since the roads were full of curves we had to ride safe and at a decent speed since we had planned to visit the famous Dal Lake (in Srinagar) during day light. We halted midway at around 9.am for breakfast at a roadside place. The cook made some amazing maggi, sandwiches and toast for us followed by kadak masala wali chai. We were amazed by the view of the mountains. It was a pleasure to the eyes and our taste buds to experience an amazing breakfast right in the middle of the mountains.

We continued our journey and we experienced some really tough terrains. As time passed we realised that the day was going to get tough, the roads were muddy, the overnight due was playing its part and made the roads more slippery. We passed through the mountains and halted at Anatnag at around 1.30 pm for lunch and a little rest. We felt that we had achieved a great deal by riding on these tough roads.

Having our supper at Anantnag we were talking about the roads, the weather and the food. We ensured we kept informing our parents/ near and dear ones back in Mumbai about the progress of our journey. Soon we saw another group of bikers who parked the vehicle and had halted for lunch. We spoke to those riders and immediately struck a very friendly conversation. These guys had started their journey from Chandigarh and their route was Chandigarh– Manali – Leh – Srinagar – Amritsar. We overheard these guys talking about the roads and soon realised the road ahead for us was going to get tougher when one of them in a friendly sarcasm said “yeh toh bas aapki shuruat hai , asli khatra toh aage baaki hai” . We were confident that however bad the roads be, however it may test our patience, we will complete the journey.

With this positivity and after a nice lunch we started ascending towards Srinagar. Srinagar, Hearing this name since childhood, the first thing that comes to our mind is the scenic beauty of the place. The raw thoughts of the beautiful places in the city, the silence in the valley, the thought of a curfew in no time, etc etc , all thoughts kept rolling over our head as we were reaching Srinagar.

Reaching Heaven on Earth:

You ask any person who has hit the circuit by road, would always explain about the the famous Jawahar Tunnel or Banihal Tunnel viz. a road tunnel in Jammu and Kashmir. Named after the first Prime Minister of India Jawaharlal Nehru, it was constructed for round-the-year surface transport by Alfred Kunz and C. Barsel (both were German) between 1954 and 1960. The Jawahar tunnel has been operational since 22 December 1956. The tunnel facilitates round-the-year road connectivity from Srinagar to Jammu. Later the tunnel was renovated by the Border Roads Organization under the project (BEACON) in 1960. It was designed for 150 vehicles per day in each direction but the number of vehicles is now more than 7,000 in both directions.

We hit the tunnel at around 14.30 and as soon as we crossed the tunnel we stopped besides a roadside board (at around 500 meters) which said “BRO welcomes you to the heaven of earth” and that’s when you realise you have entered one of the best places in the country. The beauty of the place will leave you spellbound.

We knew we were running beyond the schedule so after a few snaps we decided to continue riding till we make it to our accommodation at Srinagar.

Reaching Lankar Resort:

We reached the above accommodation at around 1700 hours and we decided to freshen up and leave for Dal Lake by 1900 hours. Our tour guide had called for a meeting at our room to discuss the next day’s schedule. The tour guide Mr Ali was a Kashmiri resident, a slim body but trust me when he started talking about the schedule he actually gave a reason to be afraid. Our next day’s schedule was to travel from Srinagar to Drass and then to Kargil.

You might be surprised what made a sense of fear ran across each one of us, the schedule looks to be pretty normal. Is it Kargil?? Is it the fear of being hit by a bullet??, is the place so dangerous??.. The suspense was revealed when Mr Ali started delivering his speech. I remember his words quite distinctly, more because of the Kashmiri tone / ascent he spoke in. He said and I quote “ Salaam wale-qum doston, Mashallah aap bahut ache riders honge, aap logon ne apni zindagi mein bahut baar bike chalayi hogi par kal ka jo rasta hai usme bade bade riders haar maan jaan jaate hai”. We asked him trying to take the gimmick out of him. He replied quite sarcastically and said . “Kal aapka saamna hoga Bharat ke sabse khatin raste se, Kal aayega aapko ek ekeess (21) km ki stretch jise keheta hai “Zozilla Pass”. Ye rasta bahut hi Khatarnaak hai and agar aapne safety nahi bharti , toh aap shayad yeh trip se kal hi wapas jaa sakte ho”.

Through the above Mr Ali wanted to say that though we may be riding all these years, we may be the best of riders but tomorrow there would be a stretch of 21kms, namely the Zozilla pass which is considered to be the toughest roads of the country.

Suddenly the atmosphere had turned silent, there was pin drop silence . Me, bala and vaidu looked into each others eyes and last we could do is burst out laughing. Looking at us Ali said having a smile in his face “aap hass lo par savdaani rakho aur mashalla aap safely Kargil pahuche”.

We all broke the silence by assuring him that “YES”, we will ride safe and make our way to Kargil.

1930 hours : Reaching Dal Lake:

We were tired riding and of course we realised that after three days of continuous bike ride ,our bikes needed some rest and much required check on maintenance . Ajay the mechanic took charge of the bikes and we left on local rickshaw (Tumtum as it is commonly called in Kashmir) for Dal Lake. The first thing that comes to your mind when you imagine Dal Lake is a lake surrounded by beautiful mountains, tourist travelling on Shikara (a small boat usually used by tourist for boating) enjoying the scenic beauty. Dal is a lake in Srinagar (Dal Lake is a misnomer as Dal in Kashmiri means lake), the summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir. The urban lake, which is the second largest in the state, is integral to tourism and recreation in Kashmir and is named the "Jewel in the crown of Kashmir" or "Srinagar's Jewel". The lake is also an important source for commercial operations in fishing and water plant harvesting.

People say if you need to experience the aura of the place you need to reach Dal Lake early morning .I second this thought, since by the time we reached Dal Lake, the sun had already vanished and the moon was making its way, it was dark, cool breeze kissed us as we rode the shikara. It was a normal experience, to be very frank it was like a normal boating experience of Mumbai’s Powai Lake. But for the saying we have ticked one in the whishlist.

We came back using the same rickshaw, singing old rafi songs. We were half sleepy and decided to have light dinner arranged in Lanker resort and sleep so that we are afresh to face the mighty roads as described by Mr Ali.

17.06.2015: Srinagar – Sonmarg- Zojila Pass – Drass – Kargil – 209 kms

The day I can never forget but would wish going back in time and make small corrections!!

Distance between Srinagar to Kargil is 209 km by Road and along with an aerial distance of 134 km. No direct flights or trains or buses are available between Srinagar to Kargil. The convenient, fastest and cheapest way to reach from Srinagar to Kargil is to take a taxi from Srinagar to Kargil.

We woke up at around 0530 hours and after having a good breakfast we were full throttle for Kargil. The start of the day was a mixed emotion. The sheer excitement of reaching Drass and hoping to relive the famous Kargil war moments , visiting the war memorial and paying tribute to the martyrs mixed with the anxiety of travelling through the tough Zojilla terrain.

Passing Srinagar:

As we were heading towards Sonmarg, leaving behind Srinagar it was a good feeling. Here we were riding through the heaven on earth. Yes, would have been great if we could have taken more time to live with the localites and understand their way of living, but we had little time and we had to cover the difficult terrains today for which we had to ensure that we cover the smooth terrains as early as possible.

Sonmarg gives rise to The Three Sisters (Kashmir). In its vicinity lies the great Himalayan glaciers of Kashmir Valley namely Kolhoi Glacier and Machoi Glacier with some peaks of above 5000 meters: Sirbal Peak, Kolhoi Peak, Amarnath Peak and Machoi Peak. Sonmarg an alpine valley is situated at the bank of Nallah Sindh, 87 km north-east from Srinagar, it is a popular tourist destination, nestled within the imposing Himalayan peaks. It lies at an altitude of 2800 metres above sea level. The ride to Sonamarg is through yet another spectacular facet of country side in Kashmir, this time it is the Nallah Sindh, the largest tributary of the Jehlum River in the valley of Kashmir.

Reaching Zoji la pass :

Zoji La is a high mountain pass in Jammu and Kashmir located on the Indian National Highway 1D between Srinagar and Leh in the western section of the Himalayan mountain range. Though often referred to as Zojila Pass in the foreign press, the correct English translation is Zoji Pass or simply Zojila, since the suffix 'La' itself means pass in several Himalayan languages. The usage of the word "La" can also be seen in the Khardung La, Fotu La, Namika La and Pensi La etc. In modern-day North Indian languages, 'La' and 'Darra' are both used interchangeably to mean a mountain pass.

Zoji La is 9 km from Sonmarg and provides a vital link between Ladakh and Kashmir Valley. It runs at an elevation of approximately 3,528 metres (11,575 ft), and is the second highest pass after Fotu La on the Srinagar-Leh National Highway. It is often closed during winter, though BRO is working to extend traffic to most parts of the year. The Beacon Force unit of the BRO is responsible for clearing and maintenance of the road during winter.

During the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947, Zoji La was seized by Pakistani supported invaders in 1948 in their campaign to capture Ladakh. The pass was re-captured by Indian forces on 1 November in an assault codenamed Operation Bison, which achieved success primarily due to the surprise use of tanks, then the highest altitude at which tanks had operated in combat in the world.

As we were to enter the challenging Zojila Pass, we saw a roadside board from BRO, “Slow and steady always reaches home”, we were sure we are not going to do something adventurous as the pass from beneath looked a bit scary. Zojilla Pass stretches for approximately 21kms and there are hardly any well-built roads. It’s just as you pass through a rough mountain with no fencing as you ascend towards the top. More than passing through a road, in this pass, you tend to create a road of your own. The pass has got some fierce looking curves, a really tough terrain for a beginner, no fencing around the sides which implies one mistake of yours or other passer-by’s could lead to serious injuries or can be fatal too. The roads are so rough that a mere sight of a well-built road can be a treat to the eyes and exactly what happened with me Vaidu and bala.

Another Funny moment

We continued riding our way to the top and after 145 mins of ride we saw a patch of smooth looking terrain. We were happy and felt a sense of victory ran over us as we began clicking pictures by posing on our bikes. That’s when we came across a group of bikers coming from the opposite direction and struck a conversation. We had time as Sandhya and Pratima were coming on the BDV since riding on these tough roads with a pillion rider can really be difficult. That’s when we asked the fellow biker as of their experience of being to Ladakh. They explained to us about the beauty of the place which excited us even more. I had seen a board while reading bikers blogs and pictures of theirs at a sign board saying “Welcome to Zojila Pass”. I was wondering in spite of seeing a smooth terrain for about 100 meters we are not able to find the board. The fellow biker from the other group realised this and said a with smile “asli zojilla toh abhi baaki hai :p :p” and we realized the roads ahead was going to get tougher.

We managed to reach the summit and clicked pictures near the much awaited sign board. It was almost 1230 hours and we had decided to spend an hour or so to rest, to eat something and of course to enjoy the beauty of the place.

At these high passes we realized we will get food only at the roadside tapris managed by localites who set up these stalls during May to June (for the rest of the months it is impossible to visit the place due to the weather conditions). At these stalls you get Maggi, Eggs, Tea / coffee and some basic biscuits. A bowl of magi followed by an Omelette was enough for the afternoon and after spending almost an hour at Zoji pass we rode our way to Drass.

Zojilla to Drass is an hour long ride. It is about 58kms from the base point.

Drass is a town in the Kargil District of Jammu and Kashmir. It is often called 'The Gateway to Ladakh'. It is at a height of 3230 m or 10990 ft. The mountain ridges however range from 16000 feet to 21000 feet.

For centuries, its inhabitants have been known to have negotiated this formidable pass even during the riskiest period (in late autumn or early spring, when the whole sector remains snow-bound and is subject to frequent snow storms) to transport trading merchandise and to help stranded travellers traverse the pass. A hardy people enduring with fortitude the harshness of the valley's winter, the inhabitants of Drass can well be described as the guardians of Ladakh's gateway.

The Kargil war memorial is situated in with Tololing Ranges in background. Drass War Memorial, also known as the Vijaypath, is a war memorial built by the Indian Army, located in Drass, in the foothills of the Tololing Hill. The memorial is located about 5 km from the city centre across the Tiger Hill. It is located on the Srinagar-Leh National Highway - 1D. The memorial is in the memory of the soldiers and officers of the Indian Army who were killed during the 1999 conflict between India and Pakistan. The conflict later became known as the Kargil War. The memorial has a huge epitaph with names of all the officers and soldiers who died in war.

Kargil Vijay Diwas is celebrated on 26th July every year at the memorial simultaneously the Prime Minister of India pays tribute to the soldiers at Amar Jawan Jyothi at the India Gate, New Delhi.

The main attraction of the whole memorial is the Sandstone wall, in the open, which has the names of all the Indian army personnel, who laid their lives during the Kargil war and besides there is also a souvenir shop. Visitors to the memorial can also see from there, some of the peaks that the Indian army captured back from Pakistan. A giant national flag, was hoisted at the Kargil war memorial to commemorate the 13th anniversary of India’s victory in the war.

We reached the War memorial at around 1430 hours. As soon as we reached the place, a sense of patriotism took us over as we saw the giant Indian National Flag waving in glory. We have read in our school curriculum about the famous 1999 war but being in that place and trying to imagine the courage with which our soldiers would have fought that battle was simply amazing. The Army officer who saw us wandering the place was kind enough and was ready to explain the tourists which included us, the history and the actual scenes that happened on that day. Hearing to his speech, we were speechless, tears had rolled down listening to the sacrifice the martyrs had made to ensure that Kashmir remained a part of India. If it wouldn’t have been those men who fought the battle, we wouldn’t have had the privilege to do this biking expedition in the valley. Our heart goes out to the family members of the brave men who sacrificed their life ensuring that the tri-colour and the nation was unharmed. After the speech we visited the museum of the memorial. The museum had all the war equipment’s used during the war, the letters written by the brave men to their respective family promising that they would reach home, but unfortunately couldn’t make their way back.

Soon we sat down at the army cafeteria for slight refreshments. We finished having snacks and decided to leave for Kargil which was another 65 kms from Drass. We left for Kargil at around 1730 hours.

The accident I wish was a just a dream!!!

Yes, what you are thinking is right. We had decided to ride throughout the journey in the same formation as we had started in Chandigarh. It was hardly ten mins since we started riding our way from Drass, I met with an accident. I was at a speed of 60kmps and I went off road to avoid a pebble on my way but I lost control of the bike and hit a big stone. I remember clearly that I was thrown up in the air as the impact was at a fair speed. To my left was the off road and to my right was the river passing by. All I remember is the flip from the bike (I had a double flip) and I hit the road but this time without the bike. The bike was another 10-15 meters away from me. Luckily there was no other vehicle coming from the opposite direction. Pratima and Vishal who were riding behind me, told me that I had a double flip in the air before I touched the ground. For a moment I thought this was the end, not just of the trip but the life perhaps. I hit the ground and within no time I saw the other five surrounding me and asking me if I was “ok”. I managed getting up and had a sigh of relief as their was no symptom of vomiting, since it is said if you fall specially on your head and if you vomit you may have damaged some part of brain , rather the impact could be on your brain. I checked myself by moving my body parts but realised that nothing serious had occurred. I had started experiencing pain in the right side lower portion of the body starting from my hips till the knees since I had fell down on my right hand side. As a cautious rider I always believed in using qualitative safety gears such as helmets, gloves , riding jackets, knee guards , elbow guards etc. I felt lucky that I was safe. However my bike was thrown to one corner of the road.

Vaidu went and picked the bike and bought it to a parking position. The bike was not lucky though. The tank, the headlights, the handle / steering, the silencer from the out looked heavily damaged. The only thing I felt intact was the 350CC engine. Our BDV vehicle had already reached Kargil and getting it back to Drass meant we had to wait for 2-3 hours more. Just when you feel helpless God sends someone to the rescue. I was fortunate enough to be carried by Vishal and a group of localities in their car to Drass Hospital which was close to the war memorial.

Vaidu and Bala decided to wait the girls and the bike. (They had called the BDV to Drass so that they could transport my bike which was not in riding condition). I and Vishal went to the hospital to have a checkup.

The hospital we reached was without a light since there was some power cut in the region. It was 1900 hours already and the moon had made it way. To add to my patience the doctor had left for the day and had to be called back which meant another 30 mins I had to bear the pain. I was given first aid by a nurse and told me to sleep till the doctor came to visit me. Vishal was coordinating with Bala and Vaidu about the BDV and if they were safe. The rest of the four waited till 1900hours and when the BDV arrived they loaded my injured bike on to the BDV and came to the hospital to check my condition.

The doctor came at around 1945 hours and started checking the wound which I had on the right side. I was in terrible pain and found it very difficult to move my right leg. I feared if I had met with a major fracture which could mean I can’t cover the journey again on a bike. I did not want this and prayed some miracle to happen, things would get back to normal as if the last 2 hours was just a dream. The doctor after looking at the wounds told me “Chance hai appko fracture hua rahega, bike mein mat baito aur dus din, ho sakta hai internal fracture hai since wounds gehera lag raha hai”. What he said was may be there was an internal fracture and advised me not to ride for the next ten days atleast. I was totally taken aback and requested him if he could take an Xray. To my surprise he said there was no X ray facility in the hospital. He advised me to take pain killers and reach Kargil and consult Dr. Maksoor Khan, in Leh which was again at a distance of 217kms from Kargil, who could help me with the X ray.

I started moving slightly towards the BDV as I had to sit in it and cover the journey till Kargil. It was very much saddening; I was almost into tears since I could not see myself on my bike again doing the rest of the circuit. I somehow made my way till Kargil on the BDV and once I reached within no time I hit the bed with the pain still there. I could see that the right part till knees was completed wound; I could see multiple cracks which added to the pain. I could not sleep on my right hand side. Perhaps the worst day of the journey. I wish I could go back in time and replace the last 4 hours with me riding till kargil.

The rest safely reached the accommodation at around 2200 hours. I had no idea on when they reached, who got my baggage from the BDV to the room, what did they have for dinner, how could they open the door. They had got fried rice and a gravy, I had some spoons and I was done. The pain was getting worse. I felt helpless as I could not move, stand or walk properly. With every moment of the body, the pain was excruciating. Only thing I remember is continuously saying to myself that tomorrow is going to be the longest day not because since we were heading towards Leh which was at a distance of 217 kms but because of the thought that the entire journey had to covered sitting on the BDV. I somehow managed to closed my eyes and tried having a sleep.

18.06.2015 : Kargil - Leh

In agony I woke up, I felt I could not walk; the pain was pinching and kept reminding me of the accident that had happened. I woke up somehow and thanked god for keeping me alive. Everyone visited me in the morning to check if things were okay with me.

It was the day when we had to travel to Leh. Kargil to Leh is perhaps the finest roads developed and maintained by BRO. It’s a journey of 217 kms, however the duration is not more than 4 hours and 30 mins. On this journey you pass through the smooth mountain terrains of Lamayuru and Alchi. Since it was just a 4 odd hours ride and also considering the stress that everyone had to go through last night we had decided that we will leave at around 1100 hours, so that we can reach Leh max by evening 1800 hours.

Finding another BDV

Since we all were carrying our luggage in this journey with us on the accompanying BDV vehicle, there was no space left in the BDV to load the damaged bike. That’s when Bala and Vaidu with the help of localities met Mr Kasim, the happy go lucky guy and extreme fun to be with who agreed to carry the bike till Leh for ₹ 4,500. By the time Mr kasim had arrived with his vehicle it was already 1200 hours. We had finished our breakfast by then and were all set to leave once the bike was loaded into the Mr Kasims BDV.

Trust me, it was not easy seeing your friends riding on their bikes and you sitting in a BDV trying to pacify yourself that soon things are going be alright. Rest of the group rode till Lamayuru and halted for a snack. It was 1530 hours and the sun was shining brightly. The pain had somehow settled a bit. I realised that the pain was felt only when I tried to move my feet. The wounds had yet not healed.

Lamayuru is one of the largest and oldest gompas in Ladakh, with a population of around 150 permanent monks resident. It has, in the past, housed up to 400 monks, many of which are now based in gompas in surrounding villages.

I was amazed by the roads and the scenic beauty this circuit offered throughout time. The group ensured that they clicked pictures at regular intervals. On both sides you had beautiful mountains running parallelly with the clean roads maintained by BRO. On these routes, you as a rider need to ensure that you have got some good amount of dry snacks with you and carry ample mount of water since these necessities are not easily available. The distance between two eateries / cafes can easily be 50 -70 kms. We all had a decent lunch at a cafeteria maintained and used by the military men.

As told earlier though I was enjoying the scenic beauty but my heart and mind was still with the bikes, I kept saying to myself, I could have had the best time, if at all I could have rode on these roads. However it soon hit me that the bike I was riding was in a damaged condition. Somehow Bala did understand my mind and told me to sit as his pillion and continue the ride to Leh which was still at a distance of 115 kms. I could not resist myself and rode as a pillion till Leh.

Throughout this journey, as a pillion though, I was under tremendous pain, even though I understood that the bike would definitely ask for repairs which would cost me a lot (approx. ₹ 25,000 as estimated by Ajay, the mechanic) I realised that whatever has happened has , because of some reason. I thought god is sending signals to be cautious / to ride safe and to keep your eyes open at all times, may be a lesson for life. As we rode through the beautiful looking mountains we reached Nimmoo where we came across a man-made bridge. Just as a we halted by, we were enjoying cup of tea at a roadside tapri. That’s when I got to interact with the tapriwala who was an average heighted guy and roughly aged 29. Out of curiosity asked him about his routine in these hills. He told me that he was a resident of Amitsar, Punjab and carried on his profession in these hills only during May to July since he could earn a handsome amount of money by serving tea/ coffee and some basic eateries. I was surprised and asked him if he could share the total amount he could collect in day and he said somewhere between 900-1400. Though a decent amount, he was happy in what he did. We clicked pictures at the man-made bridge and started our ride again to Leh.

We reached Leh at around 1930 hours. The day was tiring. I was still in pain. The place of accommodation was a guest house. The interiors reminded me of the traditional Kashmiri residence, more so because of the dinning arrangements. It was a typical dining area where food was supposed to be had by sitting on the floor, a nice red carpet was laid on the floor with a small table arranged for having dinner. That’s how a normal Kashmiri family have their lunch / dinner by sitting together and having it at the same time. We felt we were living this day with our family. We had drinks to celebrate the journey till Leh. It was a tiring day and we went off to sleep at around 2300 hours. I was eager to meet the Dr, the next day so that I could come out of the pain as soon as possible.

19.06.2015 : Rest day at Leh – Shanti Stupa – Shopping

We woke up to a pleasant climate. The mornings are always cold and it was a treasure to the eyes when we saw hot breakfast kept ready for us. The tea had a different taste which went well with the weather outside. The breakfast consisted of corn flakes, bread, butter, jam and poha. The place was owned by a Kashmiri couple, who were localities since the early 90’s. Talking to them gave us an insight of the culture of the people in Leh. They had a very helping nature is what we could make out, a reason for that may be because they interact with the tourist day in day out.

The day we had reserved as a rest day. Not just for the six of us but also for our bikes. We had covered more than 1000 kms and the terrains of Khardungla and Baralachla still awaited us.

Ajay the mechanic assured me that he would get my bike back to a state so that I could continue the ride. Being a rider and owning a bike, I could sense what the feeling would have been had this been my own bike. I had digested the amount of money that would have to be spent to get the bike back to normal. But the fact of the matter was I was in pain, I had to ride again, had to get the bike to a good state and so money was secondary.

I was still feeling the pain. The pain killer was not serving the purpose. May be I had realised that I had an internal fracture. You tend to become your own doctor when you are helpless . It was a bad feeling. After breakfast we spent time relaxing in our rooms, watching TV, listening to music and chatting with each other. We relaxed till afternoon and decided to have lunch at a nearby café that served momos, Maggie, English breakfast and Italian food.

Post lunch it was time to take a nap. That’s when I decided to go to Mr Maksoor (remember the doctor as suggested at Drass). I prayed to god and my late father that please keep the injuries minimal and allow me to get back to normal as soon as possible. I feared the X ray if taken, which was supposedly to be, to show results otherwise. I gathered courage to go to the Dr alone. I was accompanied by Ajay who was going for some bike spares shopping to a nearby market. When we reached the clinic, it was crowded with patients and had a long waiting time. I was the 7th patient to be seen by the Dr. It was a small clinic but seemed Mr Khan was one of the most renowned doctor.

I had to wait for almost 40 mins to meet Mr Khan. After listening to me about the accident and after close examination of the wounds he said something which gave me the biggest sigh of relief, he said “zakhm gehere nahi lagre, internal fracture nahi hai kynki aap chal paa rahe ho, sirf body pe bahar se zakhm hai jo mein dawai deta hoo ussse teek hojayenge”. I smiled like a small boy who would smile when winning award in school. I asked him out of curiosity and concern if needed to go for an X ray and if I could get back to riding the bike. The reply made me jump with joy (I did not of course). Mr khan said “Yeh toh mamooli chot hai, koi zaroorat nahi hai x ray ka, aap bindas bike chalane shuru kar sakte ho (in all he said , the wound is not a serious one, no damage would have happened internally, no sign of internal fracture since I could walk freely, no need of an X ray and I can get back to riding. He gave me a medicine and a lotion which he said to apply twice a day over the wound.

I was happy and felt god was kind enough to help me out. After visiting Mr Khan, I and Ajay left for the nearby markets to fetch for bike spares. We had to purchase the steering, headlights, tale lights, silencer, horn, clutch wire and what not. It was like we were re assembling a old bike. All parts were not that easily available which added to the agony. We somehow managed to get basic parts and the intention was to get the bike to as far as possible to a good condition.

We reached the accommodation at around 1630 hours. Everyone had just woken after a decent nap. It was time to visit the very famous Shanti Stupa and post that, the local shopping. We freshened up and left for the stupa at around 1730 hours.

Shanti Stupa is a Buddhist white-domed stupa (chorten) on a hilltop in Chanspa, Leh. It was built in 1991 by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu, Gyomyo Nakamura and part of the Peace Pagoda mission. The Shanti Stupa holds the relics of the Buddha at its base, enshrined by the 14th Dalai Lama. The stupa has become a tourist attraction not only due to its religious significance but also due to its location which provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The place gives you a feeling of Pagoda (a place in Mumbai usually known for meditation). Such was the place, a deep silence with the stupa standing tall, a panoramic view of Leh added to the beauty. It was late evening and we decided to start the shopping as shops in Leh close down by around 2100 hours.

We visited the local market and bought T shirts, Key chains, Hand made arts etc. If you are a tourist, how can you not make customized T shirt about the journey. With all fancy colours we too made our customized T Shirts.

It was 2130 and we were hungry and decided to have dinner at a chinese restaurant. The plan for the next day was to visit the famous Pangong Lake or Pangong Tso as it is locally called. We reached our room at around 2230 hours and went for a sleep. I had my medicines and as usual prayed to god if Mr Khan’s medicines proved to be a miracle.

20.06.2015 & 21.06.2016: Leh – Shey – Karu - Shakti – Chang La- Tangste – Lukung – Spangmik – Pangong Tso – 175 kms

It was 0630 hours in the morning and to my surprise God had answered my prayers. There was no pain, the wounds were there but I was not feeling any pain. I got up and moved my body and in no time I was jumping with joy. I remember waking bala and vaidu to share the joy of the moment. They were surprised too, seeing that I was feeling no pain. A positive vibe spread in the room. I was positive that I could finish the remaining journey on the bike. Our plan for the day was to visit Pangong Tso which was 175 kms from Leh. Even though we had to cover a decent distance; this journey can still take up to 8 hours because of the frequent stops you will take to enjoy the beautiful sites. Hence an early start from Leh was advised.

We knew that to go to Pangong we require Inner Line Permit, or ILP viz. is an Indian government issued document to Indian citizens from outside the state of Kashmir. It is a permit to be allowed entry to restricted area for a limited period of time. Places located near LOC (Pakistan) & LAC (China) requires civilians to acquire this permit in order to visit. The sole purpose of this permit is to keep a check on movement in these areas. Permit is not required for J&K residents and children under 12 years of age. We had hired our bikes and so we could not get the ILP since we did not own the bikes. However to avoid the hassle of documentation and to give our bikes additional rest we had decided to travel to Pangong by a car. The car was arranged by the organisers i.e Thrillopilia. We all were excited since we knew we were going to one of the most scenic beauties of the world.

It was 7 in the morning and we had decided to start the journey today by 0830 hours so that inspite of frequent halts of we reach Pangong by around 1600 hours to enjoy the scenic beauty of the place. As decided, we left at around 900 hours from Leh. The first halt for a breakfast at a place called Shey which is just 45 kms from Leh. The roads were smooth making the morning journey a pleasant one. Shey is a small town in Leh, which is usually a place where one can get good refreshments. Soon we ensured we had a good breakfast and continued the journey. The road from Shey to Chang la is a smooth one. Unlike the tough terrains we had experienced till now, this was a pretty easy one. The roads are well built and maintained. We had a smooth journey. Just a perfect day where you are with your friends – you passing by the mountains – listening to the best Bollywood tracks and remembering the days you spent together.

1315 hours and we had reached the starting point of the mighty Chang La. Chang La literally meaning “Pass towards the South” is claimed to be the third highest motorable road in the world, located at 17,590 ft. It is called Mighty Chang La because of its steep and “tough near the final ascent” climb. We passed through the tough terrains which was a bumpy ride. However the driver ensured that he rode safely and we reach the top as early as possible. We did encounter traffic on our way but that was complimentary to the bumpy roads. At the top of Chang La we found an army base and small cafeteria, which offered tea. So we enjoyed sipping the tea mesmerised by the beautiful Himalayan peaks around us. We took pictures next to several signboards reading “Chang La, 3rd Highest Motor-able Road in the world” . We spent an hour at the pass. After Chang La, we continue on the descent towards Durbuk. The roads were initially is bad, closer to the top of the pass, after which it remained super smooth for rest of the journey.

1500 hours and we reached the town of Tangste, the big town on this route with several shops, hotels and guest houses. It is again a preferred stop for several people who reach here towards late evening. We had lunch at this place.

After Tangste, it is a straight run to the village of Spangmik, right on the shores of Pangong Tso. Tangste to Pangong Tso is a 2 hour drive and after our lunch at Tangste we ensured we leave as early as possible to Pangong by 1700 hours. The approach roads are extremely good however there are areas where you will find streams of water flowing down from the hill on the road. We were mesmerized by the first sight of the beautiful lake. We were glad that we could reach the lake before sunset. It was one of the best treat to the eyes. The fact that the lake exist at such a height is itself an imaginary thing. We wasted no time in clicking one of the best wallpapers on my DSLR.

The “Dap” step (Ussain bolt’s signature celebrations pose) is something that me Bala Vaidu have done and have clicked pics in this pose. How could we not do that at this time. The place was perfect, camera was in place and so were we. Sandhya clicked a beautiful pic with the three of us doing the DAP. Perhaps this remains to be the best click of the trip. Spending almost 2 hours at the lake it was time to get to our accommodation. Pangong is a place without electricity at most of its tents / accommodations. You can either chose to stay at the tenting accommodation at Lukung or continue to the small village of Spangmik, last point till where civilians are allowed. Pangong Tso mainly has accommodation available in form of Chadar tents and camp sites.

Finding the tents were a task:-

It was a goof up. Remember we had at the last moment (viz 2 days) decided to take the Amritsar Srinagar Leh route instead of the Manali – Rohtaag route to Leh? As per the former plan we were supposed to reach Pangong today viz 20th June, and as per the latter plan we were supposed to reach Pangong on 21st June. The organiser had failed to inform the tented place about the change of our plan. We came to know about this goof up when the tent guys showed us our booking for 21st. Pangong is an isolated place, As mentioned earlier most of the places is without electricity, finding a network tower is out of question. There are no mobile networks in Pangong. This actually lets you find inner peace obviously but during such a helpless situation you feel paralysed if you can’t find a phone. The only phone booth available (because of no network in the place) is the one maintained by the Army people (open till only 8 in the eve) and one which is another 7 kms from the Lake.

Adding to the worry Sandhya and Pratima both had encountered AMS viz Acute mountain sicknesss is the effect of high altitude on humans, caused by acute exposure to low partial pressure of oxygen at high altitude. They were feeling the pinch of AMS and so they had to be settled at the small reception at the tent. Bala and Vishal accompanied them and me and Vaidu went in search of phone. It was completely dark, luckily we met our cab driver mid way in the search who agreed to take us to the 7km away army base where we could find a phone.

I salute the army men living in these extreme conditions protecting the tourists without any expectations. The army base, 7 kms away was no less than a small hut, a complete dark place with just one dim emergency light in the entire vicinity. The small house had a very narrow approach path, just one could walk in the approach road making it a one way. We parked the vehicle outside , I went on to find Graham Bells invention with Vaidu sitting in the car along with the driver. To my agony the organiser’s representative Mr Sayed knew only Kashmiri Language. The people inside the hut however were kind enough to offer me water and help me with the translation of Mr Sayed’s language and vice versa. I explained the entire scene to the person in the hut who in turn translated the same to Mr Sayed. After having a healthy 30 mins discussion with Mr Sayed and the tent incharge we could manage finding ourself a place for the night. The tent incharge agreed to provide us three tents as agreed before.

I thanked the people who helped me, without whom I don’t know what would have been the scene for the night. Me and Vaidu came back to the tent at around 2115 hours. The tents were well built with a decent interior. It had a double sharing bed in one end and a toilet well maintained. We freshened up and had dinner at the place organised by the tent management team. After dinner we decided to sit besides the lake. We did for some, glaring at the sky with the stars being clearly visible. It was as if the sky itself was meditating, such was the unmatched silence backed by the scenic beauty. We had dinner and soon hit the bed as we had nothing to do for the night.

Scenic Mornings!!!

We woke up to the silence in the place. It was cold windy outside. It was 630 hours and the weather outside was as if it was 11 in the morning (in Mumbai). Today was the day to return to Leh. Though it was one of the best places to be,we had to digest that it was time to head back to Leh. I can go on and on to describe the beauty of Pangong but as said some places can better be felt than a sheer description which will ruin the beauty.

We freshened up and after having breakfast we left for Leh. It was a smooth journey on our way back to Leh. This time we spent more time at Chang La Pass clicking some nice pictures with the ice covered mountains in the background. We had a decent breakfast at Chang La at the military café. Since we left Pangong early we had enough time to enjoy the sites on our way.

We managed Leh at around 2030 hours and straight away we headed for dinner organised at the guest house.

The plan for the next day was to visit Tso moriri, a place which is a 220 km drive from Leh. We slept early as we were tired of the journey from Pangong.

22.06.2015: Leh – Tso Moriri - Leh

This was something we had decided at the last moment before leaving from Mumbai and as a result we were not sure and confident if we could cover the entire to and fro route on the same day. We knew the travel itself would take 14 hours and hence we had to leave as early as possible.

Tso Moriri or Lake Moriri is a lake in the Ladakhi part of the Changthang Plateau (literally: northern plains) The lake and surrounding area are protected as the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve. The lake is at an altitude of 4,522 m (14,836 ft). It is the largest of the high altitude lakes entirely within India and entirely within Ladakh in this Trans-Himalayan biogeographic region. It is about 16 miles (26 km) north to south in length and two to three miles (3 to 5 km) wide. The lake has no outlet at present and the water is brackish though not very perceptible to taste.

The lake is fed by springs and snow-melt from neighbouring mountains. Most water enters the lake in two major stream systems, one entering the lake from the north, the other from the southwest. Both stream systems include extensive marshes where they enter the lake. It formerly had an outlet to the south, but this has become blocked and the lake has become a endorheic lake. The lake is oligotrophic in nature, and its waters are alkaline.

Accessibility to the lake is largely limited to summer season, though Karzok on the northwest shore and the military facilities on the eastern shores have year-round habitation.

The lake can be covered by a tourist in two ways. Either one can plan for Pangong Tso along woth Tso morir (instead of coming back to Leh, there is a route which is at a distance of 220 kms from Tnagtse). The other is cover Pangng lake one day and next day return to Leh and the go to Tso moriri.

We opted for the second option since we had a good amount of days with us. Since the route is to some extent the same as Pangong Tso, the vehicle too requires the ILT. We hired the same car which took us to Pangong but just the driver was not the same, a bit rash in his drive and a bit rude in his words.

The journey goes through some isolated mountains, river banks, rough terrains but in the end it ensures it pays your moneys worth.

We reached Tso mori at around 1400 hours, since we started from leh at around 8 and we halted for breakfast at regular intervals. The weather unlike the other day was bright , sunny and the temperature would be around 17 degrees. It was one of most serene places on earth ever witnessed by human eyes. We spent around 2 hours at the river bank , clicking pictures and enjoying the beauty the place offered. At this place you are not allowed to travel beyond the army base which lies before 16 kms of the Tibet border. It was like a no mans land. We decided to leave at around 1600 hours after having snacks at the local tapri.

The return jouney was a pleasant one. We reached back at around 1930 hours. To my surprise Ajay had repaired the bike which was really commendable. The sound of the engine “Dug dug dug “ was a treat to the ears. It was as if the bike wanted to get back to the roads, wanting to be a part of the fellow bikes and cover the rest of the journey.

The plan for the next day was to ride till Nubra Valley which lies on the eastern side of Ladakh. Since it was enough of travelling on cars during these days to Pangong and Tso moriri we had to visit Nubra on bikes. We had to hire three local bikes so as to avoid the ILP. We reached the guest house and in no time went out to hire good bikes from a known gentleman of the guest house owner. If you are riding your own bike, then you don’t require a ILP. Just ensure that you carry the vehicle papers along on the journey. There are many shops in Leh which allow two wheelers to be rented at a reasonable rate. It all comes to the bargain that you can strike with the bike lessors since prima facie the rents are too high. We hired three bikes for the trip at a rent of around Rs 800 per day which meant we shell out Rs 1600 for two days for one bike which we believed to a pretty good deal.

We had dinner at a nearby café and came back to the guest house at around 2130 hours. We slept early as we had to cover a decent 150 kms on the newly rented bike.

Few points to note when you are planning for Nubra valley:-

a.Foreign nationals are required to get a protected area permit to visit the Nubra Valley.

b. Indian citizens (who are not localites) are also required to get an Inner Line Permit to visit the valley.

c. Please also ensure that you always carry multiple photo-copies of your permit as you would be required to submit them at several check-posts.

d. You may be required to submit a copy of your permit at South Pallu. Carry a copy of your permit and submit if you are asked to do so.

23.06.2015:-Leh – Khardungla - Nubra Valley

The day itself started with much excitement as we had to reach the much awaited highest motorable road of the world, the adventurous Khardungla Pass which lies 18,380 feet above the sea level. We knew, to be able to reach the highest point and then to Nubra valley was not going to be an easy affair. As it required us to be quick, careful and ride with caution amongst the tough terrains. This route is the most known, popular, easiest and quickest one. 99% of the tourists take this route to reach Nubra valley, You take the road from Leh towards Khardung La, reach Khalsar crossing the village of Khardung and continue towards Nubra valley.

Nubra i`s a tri-armed valley located to the north east of Ladakh valley. Diskit is the the capital of Nubra and is about 150 km north from Leh town, the capital of Ladakh district, India. The average altitude of the valley is about 10,000 ft. i.e. 3048 metres above the sea level. The common way to access this valley is to travel over the Khardung La pass. The roads for the first 20 25 kms are a pretty smooth one but once you start your ascend towards Khardungla the road asks for too much caution. The rest of the journey was a complete mountainous terrain which required us to pass through steep mountains, with two way traffic in a narrow road, we lost count of the number of blind turns. If you are someone who can’t travel on steep heights then it is advisable you use a mode of transport other than a bike. It is often said that majority of travellers face AMS on these roads. The roads (if any), gets steeper as you continue ascending towards Khardungla.

Total distance covering Nubra Valley is as follows. Route is as mentioned below.

Leh – Phyang – Khardung La [39 kms]

Khardung La – Khardung Village [31 kms]

Khardung Village – Khalsar [30 kms]

Khalsar – Warshi [90 Kms]

Khalsar – Turtuk [117 Kms]

Leh – Phyang – Khardung La: Like us, there were several people wanting to visit Khardung La. To add to this there were lots of Army and civil supplies trucks, locals crossing the pass to other side and hence we had heavy traffic on this narrow and steep road. To avoid this traffic, an early start on the journey is advised. As you get close to Khardungla the roads get bumpy and more muddy because the climate was foggy, drizzles of rains had made the palace muddy and skiddy. Above all the high altitude places makes it even more challenging. It was a tough terrain to ride on and it tested our riding skills. There are many hair pin turns along the roads. Also one thing to be noted in this terrain is there is no fencing along the mountain edges which bewares the rider to be extra cautious. It is said right “fortune favours the brave”.

All said and done about the tough terrains, one cannot just ignore the eye catching scenic beauties as you climb towards Khardungla. What else a rider would want, cool winds, throttle, sound of the bullet, foggy climate and a never ending hunger to conquer the highest motorable road. We could sense reaching Khardungla, as after almost 1.5 hours of continuous bumpy and off-roading we could hear the sound of cheer at around 50 meteres away. Trust me when I say this the first sight of the sign board gave us goose bumps, we felt like pumping our hands high up in the air and screaming in joy. We made it to the place which every rider wants and dreams of reaching. We could see equal excitement among others peoples face. There were some couples, some children, some foreign nationals, some riders who had come from different parts of the country but it seemed as if all were bonded by the high spirit of the place.

We soon joined the club of people posing besides the sign board which said and we read “BRO welcomes you to the highest motorable road in the world, Khardungla – 18,380 feet above the ground level”. At the top of Khardung La is an army base and small cafeteria, which offers free tea, without milk however. So if you don’t mind sipping down black tea, it is good place to sit with a cup in your hand and beautiful Himalayan peaks all around you. When you are visiting the place for the first time you will hear from people who have been here saying that “Don’t stop at Khargungla for long, since the place is such a high altitude, you may face AMS”. We saw many army men in the place requesting the visitiors to move out of the place in max 15-20 minutes. A sense of satisfaction and a sense of pride was felt standing at the place.

Soon we realized that we were running out of time and our destination was Nubra and not Khardungla, we decided not to waste much time at this place and continued riding towards Nubra. After the break we rode till North Pallu (one needs to submit permits here as well) this is also the last place before the village of Khardung where one can expect to find food. Roughly 30 kms from the Khardung La pass is Khardung Village, it is quite a small settlement and there are only a few restaurants here, a quick stop here for photos and quick refreshment was the need of the hour.

Thereafter the roads from Khardung to Khalsar were in good condition. Few kms down the road from Khalsar the road bifurcates into two, road on the left leading to Diskit while the road on the right goes to Panamik. This is also the place where you first experience the changing vistas Nubra Valley for which it is famous for. The one thing that stands out when you hear Nubra is sand-dunes! Right in the middle of those snow-capped mountains! Its such a jaw dropping sight! :) . We reached Nubra at around 1700 hours and before even reaching out to the tents, we decided to capture the sunset and hence stayed at the valley surrounded by sand all over the place. It is surprising on how can a place covered with sand exist at such a high altitude and more over the camels in the place gave it is twist of a cooler Jaisalmer (a district in the state of Rajasthan).

Maggi had by now become our staple diet. A couple of rounds of it followed by some chi chatting with the local school kids and we were good to go. Greenery, mountains, snow, valleys, desert - we were not turning back to stare again and again at all that was whizzing by. We headed towards our tent and sipped in hot coffee with Maggi. The quick snacks was followed by dinner at around 2100 hours. Soon after chatting for some time we hit the bed before we start for the return journey to Leh, the one final time

24.06.2015: Numbra Valley - Leh

It was 6.30 in the morning and it was time we had to bid farewell to Nubra Valley. We all were set to ride at around 0700 hours. The climate was chilled, the early morning silence in the valley, it was a breezy morning, the roads were calling us to ride and enjoy the beauty of the place as we descend towards Leh. It is always advisable to start the return jouney to Leh as early as possible in the morning since the place has so much scenic beauties to offer.

Clicking pictures at Panmik

If you have ever read about a Leh expedition on a bike, you must have seen the picture of a biker posing with his bike at a long stretch road and in the background you can see a high snow peak mountain. Such is the place called “Panmik”. It was time we stopped at this place and enjoyed the beauty and capture moments which we believed could be lifelong memories. We spent a good 45 minutes at this place not just because we wanted to click pictures but Vishal’s bike got chained out. This was a blessing in disguise as we could spend more time at the valley. Trust me we got some of the best pictures in this circuit.

Journey back to khardungla

We started riding form panmik by 0915 hours and our tummies had started to roar and that’s when we decided to halt at a local place for a quick tea / refreshments. The localites are really polite and genuinely helpful. One more reason for halting at this place was to be fresh before ascending for Khardungla on our return journey. After the quick bite we started our journey towards the mighty Khardungla. The roads was ice covered with very little vicinity of the area. We could see tourists excited as always on reaching this place. It was 12 in the afternoon and we had reached khardungla where we took a halt to capture more moments from the place.

The rest of the journey was a peaceful one with halts being taken at regular intervals to catch the scenic beauty of the place. We reached Leh at around 8 in the evening and were tired by then. Dinner was arranged and we decided to have the same at the guest house since we wanted to avoid straining ourselves more.

The plan for the last three days :-

5 days of experiencing Leh, the unmatched beauty of the place, a sweet memory of the hospitality of the people and more over the best terrains to ride on.. Leh had taken all of us into its spirit. We can’t say when we can make it to Leh again, not sure how many years or decades it would take us to get back this place.

All said and gone we soon realised that we had approached the close end of our trip. We had three days with us and yet approximately more than 650 kms to be covered and endless memories to be captured and made.

The plan for the last three days was as follows:-

25.06.2015 – Leh – Pang – Sarchu – 250 kms

26.06.2015 – Sarchu – Baralachla – Jispa- -Zingzing bar - Keylong -Rohtaang – Manali- 223 kms

27.06.2016 – Local sightseeing at Manali

28.06.2016 - Manali – Chandigarh – 309 kms & then to Mumbai by flight

The days spent here were one of the most memorable one, the place as such has so much to offer. Every nook and corner has a unique scenic beauty, it can’t be described in words, it can just be felt. How many moments you try and capture, it won’t make up for the feeling which one gets, being there. I would always be thankful to the people who met us during the journey and who could provide us insights of the culture of Ladakh.

All these days we were fortunate enough to make it to the destination decided on time and if not at least, before end of the day. But as you feel proud of such things, you never know what challenges could come ahead.

It was 7 in the morning and we left from Leh for Sarchu which was about 7 hours (if a non stop ride) from Leh which was approx. 260 kms.

Visiting the Druk White Lotus School – Ranchos School

The Druk White Lotus School is located in Shey, Ladakh, in northern India, and is known locally as the Druk Padma Karpo School. More than a school it is more famous for the famous scene shot of 3 idiots.

On our way we encountered the much awaited Magnetic hill :-

Magnet Hill is a "gravity hill" located near Leh in Ladakh. The layout of the area and surrounding slopes creates an optical illusion that the downhill road is actually an uphill road. Objects and cars on the hill may appear to roll "uphill" in defiance of gravity when they are, in fact, rolling downhill. (Source : Google :p). All said and done, we hardy felt whatever is written above. I think it’s more of an illusion created by people who have been there.

An important stopover on the Leh-Manali highway, Sarchu lies on the boundary of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir. Situated at an elevation of just over 14,500 ft between the Himalayan mountain passes of Baralacha La and Lachlung La, Sarchu is of great importance mainly due to its location on the Leh-Manali highway. Sarchu (also known as Sir Bhum Chun) is a major halt point with tented accommodation in the Himalayas on the Leh-Manali Highway, on the boundary between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh (Jammu and Kashmir) in India. It is situated between Baralacha La to the south and Lachulung La to the north, at an altitude of 4,290 m (14,070 ft).[1]

Between May and September, Sarchu becomes the starting point for treks to Zanskar in Ladakh. A trip to Sarchu has its own challenges; altitude sickness being the foremost among them. Travellers often ascend from lower altitude to acclimatize to the rarefied atmosphere; traveling from Keylong and traveling up to Sarchu is the preferred route.

The journey along the Leh – Manali highway at high altitude and variable road conditions, normally takes two days, so travellers and tourists use this spot as an overnight stop. An Indian army camp is sited nearby on the banks of the Tsarap Chu river. This spot can also be used as an access to the difficult road / trek into the Zanskar region of Ladakh.

We were all set to ride at 0630 hours. We knew we had to maintain a good kms per hour throughout the day as we had to cover a long distance and the roads were not that friendly. Soon we crossed Shey, a small town situated at a distance of 15 kms from Leh. We soon realised that post Shey we had to pass through some really bumpy roads and at a slow speed to avoid the accidents on a narrow road. We continued riding till 09.30 – 10 in the morning where we had to halt for a breakfast at a roadside restaurant near Hemis which was about 40 kms from Leh. It was important to have a heavy breakfast since the roads ahead would really test the patience and you have to ensure that you remain energised at all times. It was 1100 hours and we enjoyed sipping tea with some delicious omletts and maggi. It was 1200 hours and we had to start our ride so that we make it to Sarchu on time. After the breakfast we continued at our ride till Debring. It is always recommended to start early and to cover such a distance and to avoid running out of time which forces one to drive during the night.

Debring is again a small village situated at the Leh – Sarchu route, this lies at a distance of 94 kms and approximately takes 3 -4 hours to cover the distance. It was freezing cold and I had realised that it was getting difficult for me to ride due to the freezing temperature. We steadily marched towards Debring. Since the route was challenging and had tested our patience to a great extent we took regular breaks for drinking water and refreshing ourselves and at the same time we tried to be with the time so as to make it to Sarchu on time.

It was 0230 hours, when we reached Debring and our stomachs had asked for a break. We had lunch which comprised of roti, sabji and dal rice.. The temperature was slightly rising and we could feel the sun glazing at us. All this put together was making the day and the ride a bit tiring.

We managed to have a quick bite and left to cover the rest 128 kms left for the day. We all had sensed that we won’t be able to make it to Sarchu during day light and another night ride (first being the tough journey from Drass to Kargil) was on the cards. The road from Debring to Pang is more of a descend with normal roads, well maintained and henceforth from Pang to Sarchu is unlike the normal straight roads , but it consists of many blind turns which required us to be more cautious as the fleet of trucks is a very common site. Since these truck drivers are regular drivers in this route they can overtake you at any damn place including the blind turns.

We reached Pang at around 4 in the evening. The cold breeze had taken me aback. I could not continue riding and my hands were shaking very badly because of the cold weather. I continued riding but after a point I decided to take a break and requested one of the BDV guys to ride while I sat on the BDV for the time.

Reaching Gata Loop:

The significance of the point is what I had heard from many sources and witnessing the place was one of the whishlist on this journey. Gata Loops is a name that is unknown to everyone except for a few who have travelled on the Manali Leh highway. It is a series of twenty one hairpin bends that takes you to the top of the 3rd highest altitude pass on this highway, Nakeela, at a height of nearly 16000 ft. People who do know the name Gata Loops, know it because of its stunning location, breath taking scenery around it and the difficult ascent/descent. But that is not all, there is also the ghost who haunts these loops that only a handful know about.

Several years ago, it was late October when a truck with its two travellers, the driver and a cleaner, crossed Rohtang and moved on its way towards Leh. It had already started to snow at a few places and the driver was warned but he had no choice. He had a time-line and had to reach Leh which meant that it was too late for him to turn back and take the Srinagar Leh highway which was still comparatively safer. It was the last truck to cross Rohtang as it snowed heavily the very same evening at the top and the pass closed. Kunzum Pass was already closed weeks ago and there were no vehicles coming from Kaza as well which meant that it was the last truck plying on Manali Leh highway. The driver managed to bring the truck safely all the way to Gata Loops but this is where disaster struck. On one of the loops, his truck broke down and came to a complete halt. After trying for hours, the driver couldn’t fix whatever was wrong with the vehicle. They waited and waited but no one crossed them by because they were the last vehicle on the route, the driver decided to walk to a nearby village and get some help. Cleaner however was ill and not in a condition to walk. He was so terribly ill that he could barely stand up. To add to this, Truck was also loaded and could not be left abandoned with the cargo because of the risk of getting robbed hence the cleaner stayed back with the truck to guard it and also because he was in no condition to walk. The driver walked and walked for miles until he found a tiny village but alas, there was no mechanic there. He somehow managed to make a phone call to Manali to get someone to come and fix the truck but to his bad luck, while he was still waiting at the village, the weather closed in. It started to snow heavily and became impossible for the driver to get back to the truck. It took several days for the weather to clear and he was stranded in the village all this time. Finally help came from Manali and they all hurried back to Gata Loops, to the spot where the truck broke down only to find the cleaner dead. Poor chap was left alone on the road for several days in freezing temperature, in poor health, with no water and nothing to eat and eventually died of thirst, hunger and cold. The truck was fixed but it was impossible to drive it either to Leh or Manali because passes on both sides were closed. So the driver drove the truck to the village he was stranded in and waited there until it was possible to drive across Rohtang and return to Manali. The body of the cleaner was buried at Gata Loops by the villagers, right at the spot where he died. Next year when the highway reopened, people started noticing a strange thing. There was a beggar at Gata Loops begged the passing vehicles for water. Some people did not stop but the ones who did and offered the beggar some water saw the bottles drop right through his hands. The word spread and sure enough people were scared of the ghost who begged for water, thinking that it might harm them if they stopped or curse them if they didn’t. In order to pacify the ghost, the locals set up a small temple at the spot where he was buried and made offerings of water. Since then, whoever passes by and is aware of the story leaves some water at the temple, as an offering.

The clock had hit 1800 when we crossed Gata Loops. The sun had almost set. Soon after crossing Gata Loops, Vishal’s bike broke down again. The rear tyre had punctured and it needed attention. The BDV vehicle by then had reached the base point from where Sarchu was just 15-20 kms away. The BDV was to be called to the scene and the tyre was then repaired and put back. We wasting no time, decided to get onto our bikes and head towards Sarchu. I was feeling a bit better and decided to ride again from the place where the tyre had got punctured. 15 Kms from Sarchu, we were stopped by military men and refused to let us go ahead as one of the bridges (over which the Tsarap River flows) was shut down due to poor weather and damage caused to the bridge. We tried pleasing the officials to let us go since we had booked the accommodation at Sarchu and we hardly could see any hotels / tents wherein we could halt for the night. The policemen in good faith warned us about the danger ahead and ordered us to stay back at the nearby village. Just where the bridge was about to start, at around 500 meters back we could see some small shops which served food and refreshments to the travellers.

Option 1:It was 7 in the evening and was complete dark. We were stuck in the middle of the road with just few shops around and an army camp which was 2 kms back. We had no option than to search for nearby tents, or some place of accommodation which was manageable for the night. We rested at a nearby tent owned and managed by Mr Bhimsi, who served us with some much needed hot coffee and tea. We enquired with him if we could find some decent tents to stay but unfortunately he too gave thumbs down. He asked if we were okay to stay for the night at a 6*8 size of a room with no attached toilets, no TV , no fan and the worst no electricity. We saw the room which was more like a small place which could just cover 7 people sleeping. There was no space for the luggage too. However he offered the same to us at the rate of ₹ 2,500 inclusive of morning breakfast and tea.

Option 2:Me Vishal and Pratima took the BDV vehicle, rode by ourself and started finding if we could get some alternate accommodation as after a busy day all the least you could expect good food , toilets and a sound sleep. We found one tented accommodation owned by another localite which was already rented out to a group of bikers who were on the journey to Leh. We stuck a conversation with them and they realised the unpleasant situation we were stuck in. The size of the tent was small which could accommodate only 2 people. The bikers group had already a head count of 20 and they were adjusting in 7 tents. It was next to impossible to accommodate the six of us. However they generously lend us a helping hand and agreed to provide us one of their tents. The cost of one tent was ₹3,500 for the night and no breakfast was served.

Option 3:

It was super breezy outside and the temperature would have dropped in single digit. In such a situation you always thank the Army officers who are selflessly helping the travellers in the best possible way. Looking at the misery we were facing, one of the army cadets approached us and informed us about a room that could be made available to us. Me and Vaidu headed for the room to have an inspection while others waited at Mr Bhimsi’s tent. The room he showed was kept locked and not opened since 6-7 months. It was dark with just one bulb overhead. The beds were in a really bad state. It was difficult to manage for the night since again their were no bathrooms and no electricity. The cost of the room was ₹ 1,600 for the night with no other amenities.

We came back to Mr Bhimsi’s tent and discussed the three options. All were tired and somehow reached to the unanimous decision of staying at Mr Bhimsi’s tent for the night. It was super cold and we could manage the day without fans and electricity. Mr Bhimsi helped us with some mouth-watering dinner and off we were to sleep in the 6*8 room.

26.06.2015

After the much adventurous night and having a decent sleep at the small room, we woke upto sunlight. It was 6.30 in the morning. However there was a sense of discomfort as we had to continue wearing the same dress which we had worn the previous day and had continued to wear the same overnight. Today was one of the most challenging days for us. We had to reach Manali (approx. 230 kms from Sarchu) and perhaps the last leg of our trip on a bike. Ahead was a rest day at Manali and then straight to Chandigarh to catch our flights back home.

However the day was not going to be a easy ride as we had to ride through Jispa Camp and cross over the mighty and tagged by many as the most challenging road “the Baralacha Pass”. We freshened up and we were set to ride by 7.15 am. It was breezy outside and soon we encountered “the Pagal nala”. Pagal in literal Hindi translation means foolish and nala means a water pass by usually associated with drainage and waste water passage. To cross the nala is a task and you need to balance yourself over a thin line (Usually of a bikes tyres size) of steel covered bridge and at the same time you can’t afford to wait over the nala due to on-going traffic. It is an experience of its kind. On speaking to one of the localites we realised that the bridge was repaired by the army at regular intervals, however due to the on-going traffic including fully loaded trucks and heavy vehicles the bridge always gets damaged and seeks constant attention of the road officials as this is the only route connection Jispa Camp and Sarchu.

We crossed the Nala successfully and headed towards Sarchu. Sarchu was around `15kms and the roads were not as simple as we expected. It was neither difficult nor dangerous but was filled with small pebbles thereby forcing us to be slow to avoid a puncture or a breakdown. Half past 8, we reached the base camp of Sarchu where we decided to halt for breakfast. Near the Sarchu base camp there are limited stalls that serve refreshment. It was important to have a good breakfast to feel energised to ride on Baralacha pass which we knew would take away our majority of the time of the day and at the same time would test our patience and energy. The stall was a heaven on earth. There were already a group of people who were on their way to Leh from Manali and had decided to halt their as one of their riders was suffering from acute mountain sickness and was not in a position to ride ahead. There were sticks that were kept as if there was a barbeque going on, people were enjoying the breakfast with some rum with hot water which gave them a soothing experience in such a weather. The group was kind enough and offered us to take the benefit of the barbeque and Rum which was to be frank a much needed one. We ordered for breakfast which consisted of Bread toast, Maggi , Parathas and Omlette. We were there for a good hour or so. During this moment we could get insights from the riders about the way ahead and the condition of the roads. One of them warned us if we could be able to stick to our plan as according to him to cross Baralachla would take atleast 2 hours and Manali was again 6 hours from Baralachla which included riding through Keylong and Rohtaang pass (which was again one of the challenging roads because of the steep turns and a two way traffic on those narrow roads). We somehow managed to gather guts and left for the remaining journey after biding good bye to the group of riders.

Leaving Sarchu and within a span of 3 kms we came across a 21 kms stretch. This was again testing our patience. The best part on riding such roads was, the roads were super smooth , with no traffic. However the worst part being there was no help if needed. It tested our patience to a huge level as you continue riding on a barren land for almost an hour.

For a change it was today when we could feel the heat of the encroaching sun above us. Not being used to such weather over the last few days, we felt a bit tired and almost after every 90 -120 minutes we took refreshment intervals. It was 1300 hours and we had just reached Zing Zing Bar.

We stopped over at Zing zing Bar for lunch. The initial plan was to ride till Keylong and have lunch at Keylong so we were good to continue riding in day light towards manali. However we had just reached Zing zing bar. The place was for a change much crowded and we could see many people in and around that are. I precisely remember this place since this was where we ate one of the best rajma chaval. Also one more reason why I remember the place and perhaps has embedded in one of my lifetime memories since I got rid of the long troubled constipation (of course I did not mention this in any time during the story so far but couldn’t resist sharing. One more thing to add on, I for the first time in my life experienced shitting on the top of a mountain.

PS: Of course carrying water cans till the top of the mountain).

After the heavy lunch and much needed break from the sunlight, we started riding towards Jispa Camp. The place is about 60 km and contains smooth roads which cut across mountains so we expected to cover the distance in an hours’ time.

However the tyre puncture of my bike added to the frustration of the moment. Having gone around 5 kms from Zing zing bar, I could feel that the bike wasn’t picking up speed on smooth roads. I could sense that something was wrong with the bike. Soon Vaidu was horning from far end and pointed towards my punctured tyre. The BDV all these days rode quite ahead of us and would wait for us at a decent km. We got down on the roadside and waited for the BDV which was luckily just around 6 kms ahead but the fact that we were on a ghat, we knew that the BDV would atleast take half an hour to reach to us. The BDV came down at around 1530 hours and the mechanic Ajay, wasting no time gathered his tools and started repairing the tyre. He managed to work quickly and by 1615 hours we were set to ride towards Rohtaang and if possible to manali which was our next halt.

Among the fuss we all knew one thing that the chances of we not making to Manali today was quite evident as Manali was still 150 kms and still we had to cross Keylong , Koksar and Rohtaang. We continued riding through the hilly areas and approached the Keylong road. At around 1730 in the evening I was feeling tired and a bit insomniac. May be the previous nights shattered sleep and the change in weather was the cause. We decided to halt for a tea which could help us energize. Post tea we continued riding to reach Keylong. Soon one more unfortunate event happened. Another bike broke down and it was Vishal’s bike this time. We were stranded on the middle of the road with the BDV as usual had left and was not to be seen in the vicinity.

We remember we had seen the BDV and the mechanics chilling out as we had instructed them to carry on with their own pace and we would join them at our own pace. The BDV for a change this time was around 15 kms at a place behind us. Soon we called Ajay to reach the spot as early as possible and fix the problem with the bike. It was around 1830 hours when the BDV came to the rescue and Ajay began to repair the bike.

It was a tough moment. Not just because we were stranded on a cold windy evening in the middle of the road but moreover we had to make a choice of one of the two options.

Option 1: We continue our ride to Manali which meant approx. 4 hours of non stop ride.

The Pros: We reach Manali today, we save on the cost of making a nights booking at Keylong, we get the entire day tomorrow to roam around and explore manali.

The Cons :The risk was we had to pass through Rohtaang which I knew was a risky road because it has many steep blind turns cutting across mountains . Also one more point of concern was since Rohtaang is a narrow two way traffic road, the heavy vehicles usually enter this pass during the night as during day the majority of the traffic is of the tourist. A minor accident or a vehicle breakdown can cause a heavy paralyzed traffic and one can get stranded easily upto 8-9 hours. I had experienced such a situation earlier when I had been to Rohtaang on a official trip and the memories are not worth the remembrance.

Option 2: We find a hotel in Keylong and stay overnight. Leave early morning for Manali.

The Pros :We reach Manali tomorrow, we ride during daylight making it easier for us to cross over the last leg of our journey. We avoid the risk of driving in night. We leave early morning and reach Manali at around 2 in the afternoon.

The Cons : We pay extra for a nights booking at keylong, pay additional charges to the hotel at manali for cancellation of a nights booking.

The BDV had at any cause, had to leave for Manali. We knew from the beginning of the trip that the BDV will be with us only till evening of 26th since the BDV had to head towards spiti valley the next day with another group of riders. However the BDV guys ensured us that they would be leaving our luggage at the hotel booked in Manali if we planned to stay back at Keylong.

Through consensus of mind we had opted to stay back at Keylong and avoid riding in the dark. I think it was a good decision. Bala and Vaidu left towards Keylong to fetch a decent hotel. We had decided by the time they come back, we will stand at the same place where the bike was being repaired. There were no mobile networks at the deserted highway and all we had to do was after the bike got repaired we wait at the same place. The BDV had bid goodbye to us and agreed to meet us at Manali the next day.

It was getting darker and the four of us were stranded at the highway in the middle of the mountains. We decided that we too start our ride back to Keylong since it was pointless to wait for Bala and Vaidu and we could cover a good time on our way back.

It was 1930 and it was dark. There were no streetlights to accompany us. We wasted no time and after the BDV left we started the journey back to keylong. It was perhaps a difficult ride back since there were no streetlight and all in the muddy and bumpy road we had the head lights of our bike as the only support and which could guide us in the right direction. Few miles ahead we could see two bikes coming from the opposite direction and we realised that it was Bala and Vaidu who had successfully found a hotel which was 2 kms from the place. The six of us then marched towards the hotel. As soon as we got to the hotel we were served food which was kept ready for us. We booked three rooms. Adding to the frustration of the moment the electricity went off. On talking to the hotel incharge he informed us that power cuts wasn’t a frequent affair in the area. However there seemed to a be a major power failure.

We managed to have a decent candle light dinner and decided to go to sleep. The satisfaction of making it to the second last day of the trip is worth remembering. Inspite of there being no lights we slept well.

Morning 7 the alarm rang and we were fast awake. Today was the last day on our bikes and the journey was to one of the most serene places in the country. Manali, the hot favourite pick up for honeymoon couples and the place which is the enroute for the Himalayas and the spiti valleys. We all woke up and met for the breakfast. After yesterday’s light dinner we all were hungry. We were served with hot coffee and tea and bread butter, Chole Bhature, Parathas etc etc. We were briefed about the roads ahead by the hotel owners who were keen to know our journey. We spent a good hour at the breakfast table interacting with each other and the hotel owners. Soon we realised that we need to move quickly so as to make it to manali before 1400 hours to avoid the heat.

It was 0900 hours and the bikes roared as if it too awaited the visit its hometown, the place where they belonged. Keylong to Manali is a 4 hour ride and approx 115 kms. Since we were already at the outskirts of Keylong, Manali was just 100 kms for us.

The journey comprises of passing through mountains and a ride of 3 hours in the mountains till the time you cross the Rohtaang pass and enter the city of Manali. This was a lazy ride as we had no time restrictions; we could ride at our leisure. We knew we could make it to Manali on time and there was no reason to worry. We took breaks for refreshments and also to get down and click pictures besides the mighty lush green mountains and streams of waterfalls.

We started the journey bidding good bye to the hotel owners and the staff who helped us with the pleasant hospitality. We rode along the Leh Manali Highway. The roads are challenging, since it consist of muddy areas and on the way one can find pebbles lying in the streets making the bikers to slow down. We rode for a good two hours and by 1100 hours we had made it to Khoksar. Khoksar has a total population of 78-100 people. There are about 18 houses in Khoksar village. All we could see alongside were roads, green and snow covered mountains on both sides and a small tapri which served tea. We took a small break and in no time started our journey towards Rohtaang was approx. another 20 minutes from Khoksar. Along the Leh Manali route you may have to pass through several pagal nala and streams of water flowing from mountains at a decent speed. We had to maintain speed as well as balance of the vehicle to avoid getting stuck in the middle of the flowing water or pagal nala.

Reaching Rohtaang Pass :

The pass is open from May to November. It is not particularly high or difficult to cross on foot by Himalayan standards, but it has a well-deserved reputation for being dangerous because of unpredictable snowstorms and blizzards.

This pass is an ancient trade route between the people on either side of Pir Panjal. The local name for this pass is a generic name of pass. There are many other passes in Lahaul and Spiti which have specific names (Kunzam La, Baralacha La, etc.). This is suggestive of the fact that this must have been the oldest and most frequently used pass in the region, or the fact that it is the main pass leading from one cultural region to another, quite different one, to the north.

Several episodes of the History Channel's Ice Road Truckers series spinoff IRT Deadliest Roads dealt with truckers crossing the Rohtang Pass to deliver supplies. With increase in Traffic at Rohtang Valley, Environmentalists fear its impact on the fragile mountain ecology. A rise in average temperature, and the consequent melting of glaciers, are also issues of severe concern.

We reached Rohtaang and memories of my first visit flashed by. The place was still the same. This is a very attractive destination and a crowded one due to its easy connectivity from the town of Manali. Also one more reason for this pass to be an attractive tourist destination is the presence of Solang valley which is a hub for adventure sports. Rohtaang pass is a riders paradise because of it location, it can simply mesmerize anyone. However at the same time it requires one to be cautious of the steep turns at such big heights. One mistake you do at this pass can lead to some serious damage. Many incidents evidence the fact of this pass being the cause for many fatal incidents.

All said and done I could feel a sense of accomplishment today as we rode and descended the Rohtaang pass. The pass tests ones patience to the fullest. It was 2 in the afternoon and we had reached the base point of Rohtaang pass. I was back to the same place where I was two years back during an official visit to Himachal Pradesh. I was happy I had kept and lived to the promise I made to myself when I visited the place in June 2014. We halted for a small cup of tea and some light snacks. Manali was at a distance of one hour from this place. It was the last time we were going to ride on these bikes and the journey in a day was coming to an end. We left for Manali by 1445 hours. Just as we were entering Manali, Bala’s bike gave up for the first time. His tyre got punctured and we had to wait at a nearby garage to fix the tyre. The mechanic repaired the bike in no time and we reached the hotel at Manali “pause by the way” which was not less than a perfect accommodation to end our trip on a happy note. We relaxed for the day and left for Chandigarh early morning on 28th June to catch our flight to Mumbai. Home is where the heart is

Summarizing the trip

I can’t explain the excitement I was going through , 13 days of non stop travelling, starting with religious visit to the Golden temple, witnessing the Army parade at wagah border, experiencing ghats for the first time and reaching patnitop, crossing zozilla pass and reaching Srinagar, boating at the famous Dal lake, paying tribute the martyr’s at Kargil memorial, witnessing the famous tololing top and tiger hill, meeting with an unfortunate accident at Drass, making it to Leh, living to the silence and the ethnicity of the Shanti Stupa, capturing the awesome scenario of Pangong Lake, visiting an equally but an underrated place – Tso Moriri, capturing and riding on the highest motorable road in the world, experiencing deserts at such an high altitude in the form of Nubra Valley, riding across Ghata loops, missing the accommodation at two days viz at Sarchu and Manali and finally making to Manali in a single piece. As I am conclude my journey I still feel I could just try and put my experiences in words all above, however I would strongly recommend everyone to make this trip in your list of to do’s.

I am glad that I could pen down the experiences encountered during this trip. However before bidding a good bye, it would not be complete if I don’t say a thank you to the Borders Road Organization (BRO) who have made the road to heaven accessible to the tourist inspite of the challenges faced by them day in and day out.

PS. I am sure the above would come as a surprise to the fellow members who were a part of the trip. I kept this as a secret from the other four and hope they relive the moments through this post.

I can’t still get a firm answer I asked myself before starting to pen down, I feel its more got to do with the memories it left in my heart and the small desire to get back to the same place..

Its said when you start journeys, make sure you end with experiences.

Thank you for reading this and feel free to post your comments

Thank You and have a blessed life.

#ladhakdiaries #Biking #adventure #memories #travel #culture #incredible india

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