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#we LOVE bud cubby in this household
selfdiagnosedeyemotif · 3 months
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also i do think that we should be talking about bud cubby delivering mail to the applebees and telling them TO THEIR FACES that they're fascists. actual king shit
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allsevenmaidens · 4 years
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Trying to be grateful that these characters the party and I care about are Not in the Forest because horrible things Would happen to them:
Gilear- Thank god they left him. He would already be permadead.
The Cubbys- they are too good for this. Glad Bud Cubby had the good sense to not sign up for this Actual Literal Nightmare.
Cathilda- I was pretty sad when she left, but she is the only functional person in that household. And more importantly: do Not let another one of Fabian's parents die in his arms
Zelda- I desperately want to see her in combat. So bad. (please Brennan). HOWEVER putting her in the forest Right After she and Gorgug said I love you for the first time and after they acknowledged and apologized for their own mistakes to start laying the foundation for a more mature relationship? One of them would die. And knowing how much Gorgug loves to stand between his allies and their enemies, it would probably be him.
Lydia Barkrock- Ragh has been through too much. Riz already chose to sacrifice her once. If someone were to make that choice for her again, which would make sense for the Bad Kids to do to save to save another party member, I don't know if Ragh would be able to, or even Should get past that.
Jawbone- Would turn full werewolf and Would bite Adaine or Sandralynn or hurt Tracker.
Kristen's brothers- literal children who would without a doubt last longer than Gilear. But Kristen deserves the kind of sibling redemption we wanted Aelwen to have for Adaine's sake. And it would hurt really bad for to see the Applebees kids fractured even more before we even get to know them.
Digby and Wilma- they are so constant, so loving, so supportive. You know the sentiment that little kids think their parents are invincible? I genuinely cannot imagine or start to process the implications of Digby or Wilma dying.
But these people aren't in the equation right now! Hallelujah!
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sidbecross · 7 years
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Jamie Benn - Always Dreamed Of This
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Requested: Yes
Characters: Patrick Sharp, Tyler Seguin, Jordie Benn, Jason Spezza, Jamie Benn x reader 
Words: 3,542
Warnings: Language and very intense smut.
Rating: 17+
(Y/N)'s POV
________________________________________________________________
"So, don't forget that you're babysitting Sam on Thursday next week. He's very excited to see you." My neighbor, Katherine said. She has two kids and I babysit Sam, while the older kid goes to school.
"Yeah? I'm excited to see him too. And I have it marked on my calendar." I spoke as I held the phone between my ear and my shoulder grabbing clothes for today's barbecue.
"Well, I'll let you go; I know that the barbecue is today. And all the boys will be there." Mrs. Katherine sighed.
"Alright well, I'll talk to you soon and I'll definitely see you on Thursday." I hung up the phone and threw it on the bed.
I pulled my periwinkle summer shirt off the hanger and pulled some light jeans from a cubby.
I slipped off my pajamas and pulled on the outfit. I paired the outfit with some cute, nude, strappy sandals.
I put on some makeup quickly and straightened my long hair, putting a quick crown braid in to complete the look and I shuffled downstairs.
I grabbed my iPhone off the charger in the kitchen and whipped myself up some eggs and sausage as a late breakfast. It was 11:56 am.
Today was the annual family barbecue of the Benn household. Every year they host a blowout barbecue that has an endless amount of delicious food and shenanigans. The Benn's also know how to throw a party because every year is always better than the last.
I'm Eakin's twin sister, and I've known the team for quite some time now, considering I'm only 25.
Speaking of the devil, my phone rang as I was eating.
'Cody'
I answered, "Yello," as I put a sausage link in my mouth.
"Hey kiddo, what are you doing?" He said.
"First of all just because you're 8 minutes older than I am doesn't mean that you can call me kiddo. And second, I'm eating, why? What's it to ya?"
"Do you want me to pick you up? Because I'm gonna head over about 1-ish." Cody asked me.
"Yeah, sure. Thanks. Is Hanna coming?"
Hanna is Cody's girlfriend of two years. She is the sweetest girl I've ever met. Much better than all of Cody's previous girlfriends.
"Okay. See you at 1. Love you, alright, bye."
I washed up my dishes and plopped on the couch and watched some reruns of 'Friends'.
~ 1 hour later ~
I heard the honk from outside and simultaneously got a text from Cody.
"I'm here. Leggo."
What the hell is Leggo? Isn't it leggo my Eggo? I don't know with Cody half the time.
I grabbed my purse off the counter putting my phone and keys inside and walked out to the car.
~ ~
"No. Kit Kat has no dash, Cody. It's the Mandela effect." I argued with him as we pulled up.
"No, I'm positive on my salary that there is a dash." Cody slammed his car door.
"I wouldn't bet my salary on a dash. Especially when you're wrong." I laughed as we walked on the marble steps.
"I don't know (Y/N). I think you're wrong-er."
"Uhm, Cody wrong-er is not a word." I corrected him.
"Don't tell me how to live my life." He smiled as Jordie opened the door to us.
He enveloped both of us in a big bear hug.
His beard tickled my forehead as he towered over me. I was 5'9, but his 6'2 frame still made me feel small.
"How are you guys. I've missed you! Get ready to party. Grab a beer and come out back. Jamie is cooking on the grill and Sharp and the wifey is here, along with loner Seguin and last but not least the Spezza's."
"Sweet," Cody said walking straight into the kitchen.
I followed behind in need of a beer to nuzzle for the next hour.
~ ~
"Hey (Y/N)! How are you?"
I turned around to find Jamie coming towards me with food on a platter.
"Good how are you? Food looks great." I said taking a swig of my beer.
"Wait here; I'll only be a sec." He said taking off to the kitchen.
~ ~
Jamie embraced me in a big warm hug when he returned. I could feel all of his hard muscles under his tightly fitted Henley. Which, I'm not going to lie, made me a little hot in the lower regions.
"How's it hanging? It's been a while. Like what, a month or so." He asked.
"Yeah about that. How is the offseason life? I'd imagine you'll surpass your burger intake this year?" I smiled.
"Yeah, I'll eat five this year to make it a challenge for next year." We both laughed.
It was obvious I liked Jamie. Everyone knew but Cody. He was blind as hell to it. Or he just didn't want to notice.
It was just something about how Jamie carried himself in certain situations, his mentality about being positive and not to mention he was hot as hell. And he was freaking amazing with children which by the way is hot as fuck.
We made small talk as we joined Spezza, Sharp and their wives along with Seguin, who looked as if he was on his 5th beer even though it was only quarter to two.
"Hey!" I said as I made eye contact with Jennifer, Spezza's wife, as I went over to hug her.
"How are you, Jen?" I asked.
"Great how are you? Still trying to corral 'you know who' in?" She winked obviously.
Jamie.
"Yes. I think I might be ready to tell him, straight up." I said quietly.
She stopped, "Really?"
I nodded. Jen just smiled at me, "Well, honey I hope it all works out well because you deserve well and we all know you two are perfect for each other."
~ ~
~ Later that night ~
As I laughed at a stupid joke told by no one other than my brother, I got up to put my empty beer in the kitchen.
"I'll be back. Anyone want another beer?" I said brushing off my legs from the chips my drunken brother was eating; or better yet, intentionally getting all over me.
"I'll take one,"
"Yeah me too,"
"Well, I guess I'll have another."
"Don't forget about me!"
"4 beers coming up," I spoke walking to the kitchen.
I immediately headed for the fridge and found an endless supply of beer filling just one of the two refrigerators sitting next to each other.
I could hear Sublime's 'Let's Go Get Stoned', from the other room. I swayed my hips to the beat and sang along,
"Bright lights put me in a trance
But it ain't house music, makes me want to dance
I don't gamble, but I bet
I'm gonna die if I don't get a cigarette...."
I held the empty beers in my hand rocking a slight buzz just enjoying the music; when I heard a snicker and then a full-blown laugh.
I turned swiftly to see Jamie leaning against the center island nestling a beer watching me dance that whole time.
I flushed a slight pink embarrassed at my dance moves.
"Don't be embarrassed. It was cute." He said taking a drink. I watched as the liquid slid down his throat and his Adam's apple bobbed; making me lick my lips.
"I was just getting beer for everyone," I said out of nowhere. Explaining my actions for someone who makes me extremely nervous and by the way, didn't ask.
"Ah. I see." He said moving slowly around the island, setting down his beer and coming towards me.
Oh, shit.
It only took him two big steps to reach me. He's so close to me that I could smell his beautiful cologne. I inhale as subtle as I can without him noticing.
I put the empty beers down on the counter as he grabbed the cans of beer on the top shelf for me.
"Thank you," I said politely and grabbed them from his hands.
Our fingers touched, igniting my skin.
The beers fell to the ground rolling in different directions. Well more like I dropped them, but still. We both bent down to get them.
"Sorry about that," Jamie said as he handed me the beers.
"No, it's cool. I'm sorry." I replied.
Our eyes met in an intense stare when we stood up.
I swallowed hard. Fearing what might happen next.
He grabbed me by the waist and pulled me close, bringing the beers to clunk against his hard thigh.
I inhaled sharply, at the way his hands splayed across my lower back and ass. His hand was so huge and so warm. Comforting, safe and sexy all at the same time.
I knew he was slightly drunk by the way he faintly smelled of bud light and his yummy cologne.
We stayed like that only for a moment, until Jamie held my cheek with his other hand and our lips met.
The kiss itself was hot, passionate, but sweet and loving. My body went lax as he moaned into my mouth. I darted my tongue into his mouth.
My arms flew around his torso, feeling the muscles beneath. Then I ran them up and around his neck.
We stood there making out like horny teenagers. His hands cupped my ass.
For some reason, I felt the urge to go. My body was telling me, no, but my brain screamed 'yes'.
"I need to get these beers out," I said retracting myself from him.
I grabbed the beers and looked up at him before I left.
His lips were swollen and wet, from our little make-out session and his breathing was ragged.
He looked so hot, standing there looking at me. Not saying anything.
I feared that if he said anything to me to come back, I would've.
I had to get out of there.
I don't know why, but I just had too.
PART TWO
STILL (Y/N)'s POV
I re-entered the living area. No one noticed my long absence but they did notice the beers.
Everyone cheered and I cracked mine open, taking a long deserved drink.
Jamie entered the room. My breath hitched in my throat as he burned his gaze into mine.
He sat down on the couch next to Spezza and never took his gaze off of me.
I could feel his brown eyes staring into my soul. I didn't once look at him. I don't know why I left the kitchen. I had wanted nothing more than for Jamie to kiss me, if not take me right on the kitchen island.
I should've stayed.
Jamie's POV
I grabbed her by the waist, letting my hand rest right above her ass. My other hand going to her cheek as I kissed her.
I couldn't believe it. I was actually kissing her. I've wanted this for so long. I'm guessing she did too.
I moaned in her mouth. I couldn't believe i was acting so weak in front of her. Our tongues battled together and we did this for some time.
Her hands wrapped around my waist. Her fingers feeling every muscle making me shiver. She ran them up my chest and ended up around my neck.
All too soon, she ripped away from me,
"I have to get the beers out." And she left.
What the hell?
I was pissed. Did I do something? Or what. I gritted my teeth together and ran a hand through my hair.
I walked out into the living room a minute later and saw her sitting there. Her pretty little lips wrapped around the opening of the bottle.
It went straight to my dick. I had to sit down. I couldn't stop staring at her. I wanted her to look at me.
~~
I sat, and I sat and I sat. Just watching her laugh and joke. She forgot about me once she started drinking again. She was almost completely gone now. Her hair let loose from her braid and her face red.
This always happened when she was drunk.
Her eyes met mine as i got up off the couch. Her laughter ceasing completely. She watched me leave the room and go upstairs. I had to get rid of this hard-on. I couldn't hide it any longer and it started to become extremely uncomfortable.
(Y/N)'s POV
I watched as Jamie got up and left the room. No one else noticed because they were drunk out of their trees. The beers I've consumed over the last hour gave me the confidence to stand. I went to the stairs in pursuit of him, to finish what I should've done earlier.
With every stair, I climbed I wondered where Jamie went off to. This house was so big and I couldn't manage to think clearly due to my drinking. I checked the bathroom, not there. I checked the closet, (a stupid move) not there. Then the bedrooms.
I opened Jordie's first and nothing. Then a spare bedroom nothing, but the third bedroom was Jamie's room at the end of the hall. He had to be in there. I cracked the door, slowly opening it to reveal Jamie sitting at the end of the bed...... relieving himself of a pretty big hard on.
My mouth hung open as he continued his eyes half lidded and his mouth slightly agape, oblivious of my presence.
I bit my lip as I watched intently, feeling myself begin to throb.
My head was spinning, watching him get off. My brain was jumbled, my body stiff as a board.
But my body began to move, my brain getting dragged along as it tried to process my decision.
My feet carried me into the room, his head snapping up as his hand ceased its movement as his face flushed a bright pink.
I swung my leg around his thighs and straddled him. I let my hands run up his arms and wrap them around his neck.
"Was I responsible for this?" I gave a toothy grin, letting my head point down in question to his erection.
He cleared his throat,
"Y-yes." He stated simply as I laughed.
I pulled him towards me fusing our lips together as his hands grabbed at my ass, pulling me closer.
His cock was rubbing against my stomach making me moan.
He was huge. No question I already figured that every time I dreamed that he was the one making me cum, he was always super huge. I wasn't far off.
His hands pulled at the hem of my top and I gladly obliged. I lifted my arms and broke the kiss so he could throw the shirt somewhere.
Good thing I wore my matching bra and panties today or else he would've gotten a glimpse of my granny panties. Not that I think it would’ve mattered.
His eyes rolled back into his head as he saw the silky white lace bralette. I took the opportunity to place my lips on his neck, specifically his Addams apple. I licked and kissed all over his neck.
I kissed right under his ear I whispered to him,
"Take me right here, right now. Please, Jamie.”
I bit my lip as he pulled his shirt off revealing his toned chest and muscles that sculpted his body perfectly. I bit my lip at the sight. I was rid of my pants in seconds after and I jumped him, pushing him back onto the huge bed kissing him feverishly.
His hands gripped my ass as he ground up into me. I groaned as he kissed my neck slowly making his way down to my breasts as he flipped us over. He settled in between my legs, giving my breasts equal attention.
His fingers crept to my back as he undid my bra and pulled it slowly down and off. His mouth instantly latched around my right nipple making my body arch off the bed. I could feel Jamie's smile curving around me.
He switched back and forth sucking, I almost couldn't see straight. Kisses were placed on my stomach, my navel, and right above my underwear making my breath hitch in my throat.
"God, you look so beautiful like this." Jamie's low, rumbling voice told me.
I closed my eyes about ready to burst into orgasm and he has barely even touched me.
His fingers grasped my underwear and he sighed,
"I almost don’t want to take these off; you look so good in them. Maybe model them for me,"
He was getting lost in his dirty, filthy amazing ideas.
"Another time, maybe." I grinned down at him.
His hearty laughed filled my ears and he pulled off my panties in one fluid motion.
"Fuck." I cursed as the cold air hit me, making me squirm.
He wasted no time, sucking my clit making me moan out in pleasure. I gripped the sheets so violently when he stuck two fingers in me.
"Tell me what you want baby. What do you want me to do?" His sweet voice filled my ears and his fingers worked magic on me making me gasp when he hit my g-spot.
"Oh my….." I couldn't form words, and the shit-eating grin on his face told me he knew exactly why.
"K-keep doing t-that."
"Trust me I will. You're falling apart beneath me and I wouldn't miss that."
I was gone in seconds, my orgasm taking over my body making my legs shake.
I moaned his name loudly as I came down.
I pushed myself up to Jamie and grabbed his shoulders, plunging myself down onto him.
"Don't worry; I've been on the pill for years," I spoke as his worried glare ceased and was replaced with hunger.
He grabbed my hips as I bounced furiously on him. Reminisce of my last orgasm gave me shudders as I rode Jamie.
The feeling of Jamie wrapped around me was amazing. Having him buried deep inside was something I'd remember forever.
Jamie's POV
"Are you close?" I asked her in ragged breaths. I tried to act like I wasn't on the brink of an orgasm because I literally just started fucking her. She was too good, and for that reason, I felt like if she did anything sexier than she's already doing now; that I'd cum like a geyser on the spot.
"Yes, very. And by close, I mean that I'm going to cum any second." She squealed the last part.
Thank god, I would've been extremely embarrassed if came before her.
(Y/N) clenched around me as she bit my shoulder to hold in her screams. It hurt like a bitch, but in some twisted way, it felt good with her teeth attached to me.
I wasn't far behind her as I shot my load inside her fucking tight pussy, her nails raked down my back making me grind my teeth together.
"Fuck, (Y/N)." I moaned as I sucked on her nipple, holding her tits in my hands trying to make it as pleasurable as possible.
"Oh good god Jamie." She choked as I kept pounding her, over and over.
I wasn’t going to let her get off that easily. I flipped her onto her back so that she was beneath me.
I fucked her hard. The sound of our skin slapping together filled my bedroom.
My hands pried her legs apart to which she grabbed the bedpost behind her.
She looked so good writhing beneath me. I kept going harder and harder until her eyes were closed and no sound was coming out of that luscious mouth of hers.
I was about to spill over the edge at any moment and then she jerked, letting me know she was going to cum one more time.
"Jamie....." she gripped my forearms as I pounded relentlessly into her sweet core.
"I know," I shut my eyes for a quick second, and then reopened them, "I'm about to cum."
She bit her lip and pulled me close as we came together.
God, it felt so good to cum deep inside her. I've wanted to take her and cherish her like this for so long. I couldn't believe I actually got to fuck her.
"Shit. Jamie!" She screamed.
I moaned out a loud profanity followed by her name as i collapsed on top of her.
She bit her lip looking at me.
"That was great." (Y/N) said, "I'm so glad you fucked me."
REQUESTS
MASTERLIST
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cutshawsnidowoa · 4 years
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Curb Your Cat’s Naughty Behaviors
The post Curb Your Cat’s Naughty Behaviors by Rita Reimers appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.
For those of you at home more now because of the pandemic, have you noticed your cats can be, well, rather destructive? Yes, you always knew they had a little demon inside them — they like to unroll your toilet paper (a precious item these days!) and lie across your laptop while you’re trying to work. But living with them 24/7 while you’re working from home, these little behaviors might start getting on your nerves. Right?
Related: How to Entertain Your Cats During COVID-19 Pandemic
Take the case of one of my clients, Lisa. She recently moved from her upstairs master bedroom down to the first-floor bedroom. Her cats now think 2 a.m. is party time in the new digs, with Lisa caught in the middle as they run and bounce all over her bed. Who could sleep with all that going on?
Why cats behave badly
Usually when cats start behaving in ways that we term as “bad,” it’s because they didn’t get enough activity throughout the day. In nature, cats spend a great deal of time hunting and roaming about, expending energy on activities that ensure their survival.
Of course, our spoiled cats don’t need to hunt and forage. Plus, they spend most of the day sleeping, whether we’re home or not. If your cat hasn’t had enough mental and physical stimulation throughout the day, he now has lots of pent-up energy that he intends to use. Once your own head hits the pillow at night, you’re a captive audience. And your cat knows it.
Engage in positive play
One of the ways we get our kitties to behave in acceptable ways is through engagement in positive playtime. What does that mean? Simply stated, positive play is when your cat gets a reward while interacting with you during structured play. That play needs to occur without your cat biting, chasing his feline friends or exhibiting other naughty behaviors.
For example, pick up a wand type toy or feather on a stick. Mimic your cat’s need to hunt by enticing him to chase whatever is at the end of the wand or stick. You can use feathers, toy mice or toy birds that have movement. The goal is to get your cat to chase — and catch — his prey. Not only are you helping him use up his pent-up energy and satisfy his need to run and chase, but by allowing him to catch his prey, you are also sharpening his appetite.
This interactive playtime triggers your cat’s natural body rhythms, uses up stifled energy and gives you and your cat playtime that strengthens the bond between you. If you don’t help your cat in this way, you may not like what he decides to play with around the house instead, and there’s likely to be more kitty arguments if there are other cats in the household.
Nip naughty in the bud
If you catch your cat doing something naughty, distraction is the best way to go. Yelling at your cat or squirting him with a water bottle will not accomplish what you intend and may even make him afraid of you. A fearful cat who has nothing in the household to keep him engaged in positive activities may become stressed out, anxiety ridden and mean. Bad behaviors could arise as a direct result of his boredom and/or fear of being scolded.
I have a brat cat. His name is Boo-Boo. All he needs to do is sit by another cat, tilt his head at a certain angle while staring at the other cat, and the object of his attention begins to shake, growl and run off. He just LOVES to stir up trouble when he is bored. Just like the human child who causes trouble with his siblings, a cat will do likewise if he has no other focus. Your cat may also get into your things, scratch the furniture and generally run amok in the house if no other activities are going on.
Providing playtime will help nip these behaviors in the bud, so these occurrences become less frequent. Also, provide plenty of self-play activities for your cat. Enrich his environment with cat trees to climb, cat cubby holes to hide inside, catnip plants to nibble and toys to play with when you’re not home. Cats also love to watch the world outside, so a cat seat near a window provides hours of entertainment. It’s even better with a birdhouse at cats-eye level to keep his attention on daydreaming about catching the birds, instead of on shredding your rug!
Engaging your cat in positive activities with you, providing environmental enrichment to keep him active and paying attention to your cat’s natural body rhythms are some of the keys to keeping him away from naughty behaviors. Reward his positive behaviors, replace negative ones with structured playtime, and you will have a peaceful, happy cat in your household.
Featured photo: 101cats | Getty Images
Read Next: Keep Your Cat Busy With These DIY Games
The post Curb Your Cat’s Naughty Behaviors by Rita Reimers appeared first on Catster. Copying over entire articles infringes on copyright laws. You may not be aware of it, but all of these articles were assigned, contracted and paid for, so they aren't considered public domain. However, we appreciate that you like the article and would love it if you continued sharing just the first paragraph of an article, then linking out to the rest of the piece on Catster.com.
from Catster https://www.catster.com/lifestyle/curb-your-cats-naughty-behaviors via IFTTT
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repwinpril9y0a1 · 7 years
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9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
For many of us, pets are such a vital part of our lives that we love them like our own flesh and blood, sometimes more! It’s only natural that we should want to capture them on camera and hold their memory close to our hearts. The problem is that taking great pet photos can be tricky, especially when the animal is a single-minded cat.
If you’re reading this, chances are you have a cat or two of your own, or maybe a whole pride of them (wrong cat, maybe). You might just be someone who enjoys photographing cats around your neighborhood. Whatever your story, I’m going to help you take great feline shots with these tips for getting better photos of cats.
1 – Patience is key
First things first; when photographing cats, you should expect a high failure rate. The more discerning you become as a photographer, the more this is the case. Cats are not an ideal subject for impatient types since they don’t strike obliging poses for long. Just as you’ve framed the shot, they’re likely to walk up to you and sniff the lens. If not that, they’ll turn their heads at the precise moment you release the shutter. Guessing what they’ll do next is part of the fun. Have your camera ready.
Cats tend to strike random funny poses, especially when they’re lolling about half asleep. To capture these comical moments, it’s best to always have a camera handy, even if it’s a phone. If you need to go dig out your camera before taking a shot, the cat will most likely hear you and move. Likewise, if you’re outside with your cat, have your camera ready for some outdoor action shots. You’ll miss great pictures if you first need to fetch your gear from inside a bag.
2 – Attention seeking
By now, you’ll know how much your cat likes to thwart you at every turn and foil your photo attempts. However, there are tactics you can use to get the pictures you want. When working alone, learn to use your camera one-handed, even though it’s not textbook technique. Set everything up on Auto so you don’t have to fiddle around before taking the shot. With the other hand, you’ll be attracting your cat’s attention. Clicking the fingers usually works for a time, until the cat wises up to it.
Cats are intrigued by rustling noises too, so you can crunch a paper bag to make the cat look towards you. Use a cat toy if you want a livelier picture, but the success rate will be lower. You’ll make life easier if there’s a window behind or beside you, so plenty of natural light falls on your cat’s face.
3 – Getting down to your cat’s level
One common mistake made by budding pet photographers is that they photograph their cat or dog from a human height. This rarely works well. Photos of animals taken on their own level tend to have more impact and show the animal’s personality better, from the perspective of an equal.
If you want to capture a cat in hunting mode, getting down to ground level gives the feeling of being the cat’s prey and adds drama to the photo. If it’s hard to adopt these low positions, you’ll achieve the same thing using a digital camera with a swivel screen. Since cats like to climb, you won’t always have to stoop to be at eye level.
4 – Frame your subject
Framing your cat in the shot with surroundings like long grass, shrubs, or tree foliage gives the photo added depth. It also creates the feeling of peeking into the cat’s own natural habitat, or his world. It’s a technique you’ll often see in wildlife photography. Indoors, you can frame your cat by including any cubby holes or hiding places that cats generally like. Comfy towel cupboards are a frequent favorite.
5 – Focus on the eyes
If you’re taking a close-up portrait of your cat, it’s important to make sure the eyes are in focus. This is surprisingly easy to get wrong in animals since it takes only slight carelessness to focus on the nose instead. The camera you use and its sensor size will affect how easy this is. A phone camera will typically give you loads of depth of field, so it’s difficult to get the eyes out of focus, whereas an SLR with a larger sensor gives a shallower depth of field and demands more control over technique.
If you’re taking the portrait from an angle, try to have the nearest eye in focus, as it looks unnatural to have only the far eye sharp. These same principles are generally applied to human portraits, too. They are only guidelines, however, so you can ignore them if you’re going for a specific effect.
6 – Lighting for cats
You’ve probably seen photos of people taken at night that exhibit the dreaded red-eye effect. This is the result of using a flash, either built into the camera or directly mounted onto it. Blood vessels in the back of human eyes create a red reflection. Cats and other animals have a special reflective layer in the back of their eyes that enhances night vision. This causes a variety of colors to be bounced back when a flash is aimed at them, but typically it will be blue in a kitten and green in an adult cat. These colors are more attractive than red, but still undesirable in your photo.
By mounting or holding a flashgun away from the camera, you can take night photos of your cat without this demonic eye effect. Covering the flash with a softbox will help avoid harsh shadows. High-quality flash photography requires a further investment in gear and is not strictly necessary when window light provides an easy and effective alternative. As well, digital cameras have greatly improved in high ISO performance in recent years, so you can grab photos in relatively low household light and avoid excessive noise in the picture. The only downside with that is you’ll be often forced to correct the color cast created by electric light bulbs.
Try photographing your cat outside when the sun is low in the sky. You’ll achieve some very attractive photos if the sunlight catches the cat’s fur, which requires that you shoot towards the sun. In this situation, you can sometimes get away with using a flash directly on your camera for a little “fill-flash”. The harsh green-eye effect that happens at night doesn’t occur if the flash is diluted by enough daylight. This avoids the cat itself being underexposed, which is a possibility when shooting into direct sunlight.
7 – Lens choice
A portrait lens around 85-130mm (or equivalent) works well with cats, giving just enough working distance that they don’t instantly make a beeline towards you. If it’s also a macro lens, like the classic Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, you’ll have the option of moving in for some ultra-close photos of eyes or even paws.
Wider reportage type lenses around 35mm are good for grabbing full-body photos of your cat. At the other end of the scale, a long telephoto lens allows a greater working distance and lets you be more selective about the background, as it will have a narrower field of view. You’ll probably go for a shorter lens indoors since you won’t need as much light to keep the photo sharp.
Compact cameras or a mobile phone will normally let you move in so close to your cat that you’re almost touching him or her, but be aware that this closeness distorts perspective and your cat’s features. Despite this drawback, the resulting photos are often pleasing enough.
8 – Camera settings Manual Mode + Auto ISO
If you have a solely automatic camera, you can ignore this section, but it’s a neat trick for anyone with access to Manual mode and an Auto ISO feature. A lot of experienced pros and amateur photographers routinely set their cameras to Aperture Priority mode (Av/A) and have their ISO set to a low value for minimum image noise. The camera is then left to automatically adjust shutter speed for the correct exposure. This is fine, but it reduces the chances of taking sharp action photos in low light, as the shutter speed will often end up too slow. For cat photography, that’s a potential problem.
By setting the camera to Manual Mode in combination with Auto ISO, you always have control over the aperture and shutter speed settings, while the ISO is sorted out by the camera. In fact, the “manual” setting in this instance is no less automatic than aperture priority (Av/A) or shutter priority (Tv/S) modes but gives more creative control over the photo. This technique is more viable nowadays than it was a few years ago since modern digital cameras produce high ISO images with very little noise. That said, if you try this technique in poor indoor light you’ll be pushing your camera’s limits and may well be dissatisfied by the results. Given a reasonable amount of light, it’s a versatile way of working.
Camera settings – Continuous Drive mode
Capturing pictures of your cat chasing a toy, leaping or running around a garden or scurrying up a tree is not going to be easy if you leave your camera in single shot mode. That is true unless you literally have lightning reflexes or get lucky with the timing. Therefore, if you know you’re going to be attempting action shots, switch your camera to its continuous drive or burst mode. You’ll need to set a fast shutter speed too if you want to freeze the action (I’d suggest a minimum of 1/500th of a second).
While this may be less skillful than snatching single photos with ninja-style dexterity, there is no shame in stacking the odds in your favor. Remember that your audience won’t usually care about how you took the photo but will admire great results.
9 – Black cats, white cats
Left to its own devices, your camera’s exposure meter will often underexpose a white cat and overexpose a black cat, particularly if they take up a large portion of the photo or are set against a similarly toned background. The white cat will look murky gray and the black will lose the deep luster of its fur and appear grayish, too. You can remedy this by using your camera’s exposure compensation feature and dialing in one or two stops of overexposure for a white cat or underexposure for black. While it’s generally better to do this in-camera, with digital you can usually fix it later when editing. Being aware of the issue is the main thing.
Lastly, take plenty of photos
If you keep pets through much of your life, sooner or later they’ll break your heart. Don’t be caught when it’s too late without any good photos of your beloved cat. Think about his or her personality and try to record their various traits on camera. Take lots of photos to enjoy during and after your pet’s lifespan, including selfies of you both together. Cherish your cat and celebrate living!
For more info check out: Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snap’n Paws
Did I miss anything? Please share your cat photos and tips below as well.
The post 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.
from DIYS http://ift.tt/2kV1OMW
0 notes
exfrenchdorsl4p0a1 · 7 years
Text
9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
For many of us, pets are such a vital part of our lives that we love them like our own flesh and blood, sometimes more! It’s only natural that we should want to capture them on camera and hold their memory close to our hearts. The problem is that taking great pet photos can be tricky, especially when the animal is a single-minded cat.
If you’re reading this, chances are you have a cat or two of your own, or maybe a whole pride of them (wrong cat, maybe). You might just be someone who enjoys photographing cats around your neighborhood. Whatever your story, I’m going to help you take great feline shots with these tips for getting better photos of cats.
1 – Patience is key
First things first; when photographing cats, you should expect a high failure rate. The more discerning you become as a photographer, the more this is the case. Cats are not an ideal subject for impatient types since they don’t strike obliging poses for long. Just as you’ve framed the shot, they’re likely to walk up to you and sniff the lens. If not that, they’ll turn their heads at the precise moment you release the shutter. Guessing what they’ll do next is part of the fun. Have your camera ready.
Cats tend to strike random funny poses, especially when they’re lolling about half asleep. To capture these comical moments, it’s best to always have a camera handy, even if it’s a phone. If you need to go dig out your camera before taking a shot, the cat will most likely hear you and move. Likewise, if you’re outside with your cat, have your camera ready for some outdoor action shots. You’ll miss great pictures if you first need to fetch your gear from inside a bag.
2 – Attention seeking
By now, you’ll know how much your cat likes to thwart you at every turn and foil your photo attempts. However, there are tactics you can use to get the pictures you want. When working alone, learn to use your camera one-handed, even though it’s not textbook technique. Set everything up on Auto so you don’t have to fiddle around before taking the shot. With the other hand, you’ll be attracting your cat’s attention. Clicking the fingers usually works for a time, until the cat wises up to it.
Cats are intrigued by rustling noises too, so you can crunch a paper bag to make the cat look towards you. Use a cat toy if you want a livelier picture, but the success rate will be lower. You’ll make life easier if there’s a window behind or beside you, so plenty of natural light falls on your cat’s face.
3 – Getting down to your cat’s level
One common mistake made by budding pet photographers is that they photograph their cat or dog from a human height. This rarely works well. Photos of animals taken on their own level tend to have more impact and show the animal’s personality better, from the perspective of an equal.
If you want to capture a cat in hunting mode, getting down to ground level gives the feeling of being the cat’s prey and adds drama to the photo. If it’s hard to adopt these low positions, you’ll achieve the same thing using a digital camera with a swivel screen. Since cats like to climb, you won’t always have to stoop to be at eye level.
4 – Frame your subject
Framing your cat in the shot with surroundings like long grass, shrubs, or tree foliage gives the photo added depth. It also creates the feeling of peeking into the cat’s own natural habitat, or his world. It’s a technique you’ll often see in wildlife photography. Indoors, you can frame your cat by including any cubby holes or hiding places that cats generally like. Comfy towel cupboards are a frequent favorite.
5 – Focus on the eyes
If you’re taking a close-up portrait of your cat, it’s important to make sure the eyes are in focus. This is surprisingly easy to get wrong in animals since it takes only slight carelessness to focus on the nose instead. The camera you use and its sensor size will affect how easy this is. A phone camera will typically give you loads of depth of field, so it’s difficult to get the eyes out of focus, whereas an SLR with a larger sensor gives a shallower depth of field and demands more control over technique.
If you’re taking the portrait from an angle, try to have the nearest eye in focus, as it looks unnatural to have only the far eye sharp. These same principles are generally applied to human portraits, too. They are only guidelines, however, so you can ignore them if you’re going for a specific effect.
6 – Lighting for cats
You’ve probably seen photos of people taken at night that exhibit the dreaded red-eye effect. This is the result of using a flash, either built into the camera or directly mounted onto it. Blood vessels in the back of human eyes create a red reflection. Cats and other animals have a special reflective layer in the back of their eyes that enhances night vision. This causes a variety of colors to be bounced back when a flash is aimed at them, but typically it will be blue in a kitten and green in an adult cat. These colors are more attractive than red, but still undesirable in your photo.
By mounting or holding a flashgun away from the camera, you can take night photos of your cat without this demonic eye effect. Covering the flash with a softbox will help avoid harsh shadows. High-quality flash photography requires a further investment in gear and is not strictly necessary when window light provides an easy and effective alternative. As well, digital cameras have greatly improved in high ISO performance in recent years, so you can grab photos in relatively low household light and avoid excessive noise in the picture. The only downside with that is you’ll be often forced to correct the color cast created by electric light bulbs.
Try photographing your cat outside when the sun is low in the sky. You’ll achieve some very attractive photos if the sunlight catches the cat’s fur, which requires that you shoot towards the sun. In this situation, you can sometimes get away with using a flash directly on your camera for a little “fill-flash”. The harsh green-eye effect that happens at night doesn’t occur if the flash is diluted by enough daylight. This avoids the cat itself being underexposed, which is a possibility when shooting into direct sunlight.
7 – Lens choice
A portrait lens around 85-130mm (or equivalent) works well with cats, giving just enough working distance that they don’t instantly make a beeline towards you. If it’s also a macro lens, like the classic Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, you’ll have the option of moving in for some ultra-close photos of eyes or even paws.
Wider reportage type lenses around 35mm are good for grabbing full-body photos of your cat. At the other end of the scale, a long telephoto lens allows a greater working distance and lets you be more selective about the background, as it will have a narrower field of view. You’ll probably go for a shorter lens indoors since you won’t need as much light to keep the photo sharp.
Compact cameras or a mobile phone will normally let you move in so close to your cat that you’re almost touching him or her, but be aware that this closeness distorts perspective and your cat’s features. Despite this drawback, the resulting photos are often pleasing enough.
8 – Camera settings Manual Mode + Auto ISO
If you have a solely automatic camera, you can ignore this section, but it’s a neat trick for anyone with access to Manual mode and an Auto ISO feature. A lot of experienced pros and amateur photographers routinely set their cameras to Aperture Priority mode (Av/A) and have their ISO set to a low value for minimum image noise. The camera is then left to automatically adjust shutter speed for the correct exposure. This is fine, but it reduces the chances of taking sharp action photos in low light, as the shutter speed will often end up too slow. For cat photography, that’s a potential problem.
By setting the camera to Manual Mode in combination with Auto ISO, you always have control over the aperture and shutter speed settings, while the ISO is sorted out by the camera. In fact, the “manual” setting in this instance is no less automatic than aperture priority (Av/A) or shutter priority (Tv/S) modes but gives more creative control over the photo. This technique is more viable nowadays than it was a few years ago since modern digital cameras produce high ISO images with very little noise. That said, if you try this technique in poor indoor light you’ll be pushing your camera’s limits and may well be dissatisfied by the results. Given a reasonable amount of light, it’s a versatile way of working.
Camera settings – Continuous Drive mode
Capturing pictures of your cat chasing a toy, leaping or running around a garden or scurrying up a tree is not going to be easy if you leave your camera in single shot mode. That is true unless you literally have lightning reflexes or get lucky with the timing. Therefore, if you know you’re going to be attempting action shots, switch your camera to its continuous drive or burst mode. You’ll need to set a fast shutter speed too if you want to freeze the action (I’d suggest a minimum of 1/500th of a second).
While this may be less skillful than snatching single photos with ninja-style dexterity, there is no shame in stacking the odds in your favor. Remember that your audience won’t usually care about how you took the photo but will admire great results.
9 – Black cats, white cats
Left to its own devices, your camera’s exposure meter will often underexpose a white cat and overexpose a black cat, particularly if they take up a large portion of the photo or are set against a similarly toned background. The white cat will look murky gray and the black will lose the deep luster of its fur and appear grayish, too. You can remedy this by using your camera’s exposure compensation feature and dialing in one or two stops of overexposure for a white cat or underexposure for black. While it’s generally better to do this in-camera, with digital you can usually fix it later when editing. Being aware of the issue is the main thing.
Lastly, take plenty of photos
If you keep pets through much of your life, sooner or later they’ll break your heart. Don’t be caught when it’s too late without any good photos of your beloved cat. Think about his or her personality and try to record their various traits on camera. Take lots of photos to enjoy during and after your pet’s lifespan, including selfies of you both together. Cherish your cat and celebrate living!
For more info check out: Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snap’n Paws
Did I miss anything? Please share your cat photos and tips below as well.
The post 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.
from DIYS http://ift.tt/2kV1OMW
0 notes
repwincoml4a0a5 · 7 years
Text
9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
For many of us, pets are such a vital part of our lives that we love them like our own flesh and blood, sometimes more! It’s only natural that we should want to capture them on camera and hold their memory close to our hearts. The problem is that taking great pet photos can be tricky, especially when the animal is a single-minded cat.
If you’re reading this, chances are you have a cat or two of your own, or maybe a whole pride of them (wrong cat, maybe). You might just be someone who enjoys photographing cats around your neighborhood. Whatever your story, I’m going to help you take great feline shots with these tips for getting better photos of cats.
1 – Patience is key
First things first; when photographing cats, you should expect a high failure rate. The more discerning you become as a photographer, the more this is the case. Cats are not an ideal subject for impatient types since they don’t strike obliging poses for long. Just as you’ve framed the shot, they’re likely to walk up to you and sniff the lens. If not that, they’ll turn their heads at the precise moment you release the shutter. Guessing what they’ll do next is part of the fun. Have your camera ready.
Cats tend to strike random funny poses, especially when they’re lolling about half asleep. To capture these comical moments, it’s best to always have a camera handy, even if it’s a phone. If you need to go dig out your camera before taking a shot, the cat will most likely hear you and move. Likewise, if you’re outside with your cat, have your camera ready for some outdoor action shots. You’ll miss great pictures if you first need to fetch your gear from inside a bag.
2 – Attention seeking
By now, you’ll know how much your cat likes to thwart you at every turn and foil your photo attempts. However, there are tactics you can use to get the pictures you want. When working alone, learn to use your camera one-handed, even though it’s not textbook technique. Set everything up on Auto so you don’t have to fiddle around before taking the shot. With the other hand, you’ll be attracting your cat’s attention. Clicking the fingers usually works for a time, until the cat wises up to it.
Cats are intrigued by rustling noises too, so you can crunch a paper bag to make the cat look towards you. Use a cat toy if you want a livelier picture, but the success rate will be lower. You’ll make life easier if there’s a window behind or beside you, so plenty of natural light falls on your cat’s face.
3 – Getting down to your cat’s level
One common mistake made by budding pet photographers is that they photograph their cat or dog from a human height. This rarely works well. Photos of animals taken on their own level tend to have more impact and show the animal’s personality better, from the perspective of an equal.
If you want to capture a cat in hunting mode, getting down to ground level gives the feeling of being the cat’s prey and adds drama to the photo. If it’s hard to adopt these low positions, you’ll achieve the same thing using a digital camera with a swivel screen. Since cats like to climb, you won’t always have to stoop to be at eye level.
4 – Frame your subject
Framing your cat in the shot with surroundings like long grass, shrubs, or tree foliage gives the photo added depth. It also creates the feeling of peeking into the cat’s own natural habitat, or his world. It’s a technique you’ll often see in wildlife photography. Indoors, you can frame your cat by including any cubby holes or hiding places that cats generally like. Comfy towel cupboards are a frequent favorite.
5 – Focus on the eyes
If you’re taking a close-up portrait of your cat, it’s important to make sure the eyes are in focus. This is surprisingly easy to get wrong in animals since it takes only slight carelessness to focus on the nose instead. The camera you use and its sensor size will affect how easy this is. A phone camera will typically give you loads of depth of field, so it’s difficult to get the eyes out of focus, whereas an SLR with a larger sensor gives a shallower depth of field and demands more control over technique.
If you’re taking the portrait from an angle, try to have the nearest eye in focus, as it looks unnatural to have only the far eye sharp. These same principles are generally applied to human portraits, too. They are only guidelines, however, so you can ignore them if you’re going for a specific effect.
6 – Lighting for cats
You’ve probably seen photos of people taken at night that exhibit the dreaded red-eye effect. This is the result of using a flash, either built into the camera or directly mounted onto it. Blood vessels in the back of human eyes create a red reflection. Cats and other animals have a special reflective layer in the back of their eyes that enhances night vision. This causes a variety of colors to be bounced back when a flash is aimed at them, but typically it will be blue in a kitten and green in an adult cat. These colors are more attractive than red, but still undesirable in your photo.
By mounting or holding a flashgun away from the camera, you can take night photos of your cat without this demonic eye effect. Covering the flash with a softbox will help avoid harsh shadows. High-quality flash photography requires a further investment in gear and is not strictly necessary when window light provides an easy and effective alternative. As well, digital cameras have greatly improved in high ISO performance in recent years, so you can grab photos in relatively low household light and avoid excessive noise in the picture. The only downside with that is you’ll be often forced to correct the color cast created by electric light bulbs.
Try photographing your cat outside when the sun is low in the sky. You’ll achieve some very attractive photos if the sunlight catches the cat’s fur, which requires that you shoot towards the sun. In this situation, you can sometimes get away with using a flash directly on your camera for a little “fill-flash”. The harsh green-eye effect that happens at night doesn’t occur if the flash is diluted by enough daylight. This avoids the cat itself being underexposed, which is a possibility when shooting into direct sunlight.
7 – Lens choice
A portrait lens around 85-130mm (or equivalent) works well with cats, giving just enough working distance that they don’t instantly make a beeline towards you. If it’s also a macro lens, like the classic Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, you’ll have the option of moving in for some ultra-close photos of eyes or even paws.
Wider reportage type lenses around 35mm are good for grabbing full-body photos of your cat. At the other end of the scale, a long telephoto lens allows a greater working distance and lets you be more selective about the background, as it will have a narrower field of view. You’ll probably go for a shorter lens indoors since you won’t need as much light to keep the photo sharp.
Compact cameras or a mobile phone will normally let you move in so close to your cat that you’re almost touching him or her, but be aware that this closeness distorts perspective and your cat’s features. Despite this drawback, the resulting photos are often pleasing enough.
8 – Camera settings Manual Mode + Auto ISO
If you have a solely automatic camera, you can ignore this section, but it’s a neat trick for anyone with access to Manual mode and an Auto ISO feature. A lot of experienced pros and amateur photographers routinely set their cameras to Aperture Priority mode (Av/A) and have their ISO set to a low value for minimum image noise. The camera is then left to automatically adjust shutter speed for the correct exposure. This is fine, but it reduces the chances of taking sharp action photos in low light, as the shutter speed will often end up too slow. For cat photography, that’s a potential problem.
By setting the camera to Manual Mode in combination with Auto ISO, you always have control over the aperture and shutter speed settings, while the ISO is sorted out by the camera. In fact, the “manual” setting in this instance is no less automatic than aperture priority (Av/A) or shutter priority (Tv/S) modes but gives more creative control over the photo. This technique is more viable nowadays than it was a few years ago since modern digital cameras produce high ISO images with very little noise. That said, if you try this technique in poor indoor light you’ll be pushing your camera’s limits and may well be dissatisfied by the results. Given a reasonable amount of light, it’s a versatile way of working.
Camera settings – Continuous Drive mode
Capturing pictures of your cat chasing a toy, leaping or running around a garden or scurrying up a tree is not going to be easy if you leave your camera in single shot mode. That is true unless you literally have lightning reflexes or get lucky with the timing. Therefore, if you know you’re going to be attempting action shots, switch your camera to its continuous drive or burst mode. You’ll need to set a fast shutter speed too if you want to freeze the action (I’d suggest a minimum of 1/500th of a second).
While this may be less skillful than snatching single photos with ninja-style dexterity, there is no shame in stacking the odds in your favor. Remember that your audience won’t usually care about how you took the photo but will admire great results.
9 – Black cats, white cats
Left to its own devices, your camera’s exposure meter will often underexpose a white cat and overexpose a black cat, particularly if they take up a large portion of the photo or are set against a similarly toned background. The white cat will look murky gray and the black will lose the deep luster of its fur and appear grayish, too. You can remedy this by using your camera’s exposure compensation feature and dialing in one or two stops of overexposure for a white cat or underexposure for black. While it’s generally better to do this in-camera, with digital you can usually fix it later when editing. Being aware of the issue is the main thing.
Lastly, take plenty of photos
If you keep pets through much of your life, sooner or later they’ll break your heart. Don’t be caught when it’s too late without any good photos of your beloved cat. Think about his or her personality and try to record their various traits on camera. Take lots of photos to enjoy during and after your pet’s lifespan, including selfies of you both together. Cherish your cat and celebrate living!
For more info check out: Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snap’n Paws
Did I miss anything? Please share your cat photos and tips below as well.
The post 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.
from DIYS http://ift.tt/2kV1OMW
0 notes
joya34blanco · 7 years
Text
9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
For many of us, pets are such a vital part of our lives that we love them like our own flesh and blood, sometimes more! It’s only natural that we should want to capture them on camera and hold their memory close to our hearts. The problem is that taking great pet photos can be tricky, especially when the animal is a single-minded cat.
If you’re reading this, chances are you have a cat or two of your own, or maybe a whole pride of them (wrong cat, maybe). You might just be someone who enjoys photographing cats around your neighborhood. Whatever your story, I’m going to help you take great feline shots with these tips for getting better photos of cats.
1 – Patience is key
First things first; when photographing cats, you should expect a high failure rate. The more discerning you become as a photographer, the more this is the case. Cats are not an ideal subject for impatient types since they don’t strike obliging poses for long. Just as you’ve framed the shot, they’re likely to walk up to you and sniff the lens. If not that, they’ll turn their heads at the precise moment you release the shutter. Guessing what they’ll do next is part of the fun. Have your camera ready.
Cats tend to strike random funny poses, especially when they’re lolling about half asleep. To capture these comical moments, it’s best to always have a camera handy, even if it’s a phone. If you need to go dig out your camera before taking a shot, the cat will most likely hear you and move. Likewise, if you’re outside with your cat, have your camera ready for some outdoor action shots. You’ll miss great pictures if you first need to fetch your gear from inside a bag.
2 – Attention seeking
By now, you’ll know how much your cat likes to thwart you at every turn and foil your photo attempts. However, there are tactics you can use to get the pictures you want. When working alone, learn to use your camera one-handed, even though it’s not textbook technique. Set everything up on Auto so you don’t have to fiddle around before taking the shot. With the other hand, you’ll be attracting your cat’s attention. Clicking the fingers usually works for a time, until the cat wises up to it.
Cats are intrigued by rustling noises too, so you can crunch a paper bag to make the cat look towards you. Use a cat toy if you want a livelier picture, but the success rate will be lower. You’ll make life easier if there’s a window behind or beside you, so plenty of natural light falls on your cat’s face.
3 – Getting down to your cat’s level
One common mistake made by budding pet photographers is that they photograph their cat or dog from a human height. This rarely works well. Photos of animals taken on their own level tend to have more impact and show the animal’s personality better, from the perspective of an equal.
If you want to capture a cat in hunting mode, getting down to ground level gives the feeling of being the cat’s prey and adds drama to the photo. If it’s hard to adopt these low positions, you’ll achieve the same thing using a digital camera with a swivel screen. Since cats like to climb, you won’t always have to stoop to be at eye level.
4 – Frame your subject
Framing your cat in the shot with surroundings like long grass, shrubs, or tree foliage gives the photo added depth. It also creates the feeling of peeking into the cat’s own natural habitat, or his world. It’s a technique you’ll often see in wildlife photography. Indoors, you can frame your cat by including any cubby holes or hiding places that cats generally like. Comfy towel cupboards are a frequent favorite.
5 – Focus on the eyes
If you’re taking a close-up portrait of your cat, it’s important to make sure the eyes are in focus. This is surprisingly easy to get wrong in animals since it takes only slight carelessness to focus on the nose instead. The camera you use and its sensor size will affect how easy this is. A phone camera will typically give you loads of depth of field, so it’s difficult to get the eyes out of focus, whereas an SLR with a larger sensor gives a shallower depth of field and demands more control over technique.
If you’re taking the portrait from an angle, try to have the nearest eye in focus, as it looks unnatural to have only the far eye sharp. These same principles are generally applied to human portraits, too. They are only guidelines, however, so you can ignore them if you’re going for a specific effect.
6 – Lighting for cats
You’ve probably seen photos of people taken at night that exhibit the dreaded red-eye effect. This is the result of using a flash, either built into the camera or directly mounted onto it. Blood vessels in the back of human eyes create a red reflection. Cats and other animals have a special reflective layer in the back of their eyes that enhances night vision. This causes a variety of colors to be bounced back when a flash is aimed at them, but typically it will be blue in a kitten and green in an adult cat. These colors are more attractive than red, but still undesirable in your photo.
By mounting or holding a flashgun away from the camera, you can take night photos of your cat without this demonic eye effect. Covering the flash with a softbox will help avoid harsh shadows. High-quality flash photography requires a further investment in gear and is not strictly necessary when window light provides an easy and effective alternative. As well, digital cameras have greatly improved in high ISO performance in recent years, so you can grab photos in relatively low household light and avoid excessive noise in the picture. The only downside with that is you’ll be often forced to correct the color cast created by electric light bulbs.
Try photographing your cat outside when the sun is low in the sky. You’ll achieve some very attractive photos if the sunlight catches the cat’s fur, which requires that you shoot towards the sun. In this situation, you can sometimes get away with using a flash directly on your camera for a little “fill-flash”. The harsh green-eye effect that happens at night doesn’t occur if the flash is diluted by enough daylight. This avoids the cat itself being underexposed, which is a possibility when shooting into direct sunlight.
7 – Lens choice
A portrait lens around 85-130mm (or equivalent) works well with cats, giving just enough working distance that they don’t instantly make a beeline towards you. If it’s also a macro lens, like the classic Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, you’ll have the option of moving in for some ultra-close photos of eyes or even paws.
Wider reportage type lenses around 35mm are good for grabbing full-body photos of your cat. At the other end of the scale, a long telephoto lens allows a greater working distance and lets you be more selective about the background, as it will have a narrower field of view. You’ll probably go for a shorter lens indoors since you won’t need as much light to keep the photo sharp.
Compact cameras or a mobile phone will normally let you move in so close to your cat that you’re almost touching him or her, but be aware that this closeness distorts perspective and your cat’s features. Despite this drawback, the resulting photos are often pleasing enough.
8 – Camera settings
Manual Mode + Auto ISO
If you have a solely automatic camera, you can ignore this section, but it’s a neat trick for anyone with access to Manual mode and an Auto ISO feature. A lot of experienced pros and amateur photographers routinely set their cameras to Aperture Priority mode (Av/A) and have their ISO set to a low value for minimum image noise. The camera is then left to automatically adjust shutter speed for the correct exposure. This is fine, but it reduces the chances of taking sharp action photos in low light, as the shutter speed will often end up too slow. For cat photography, that’s a potential problem.
By setting the camera to Manual Mode in combination with Auto ISO, you always have control over the aperture and shutter speed settings, while the ISO is sorted out by the camera. In fact, the “manual” setting in this instance is no less automatic than aperture priority (Av/A) or shutter priority (Tv/S) modes but gives more creative control over the photo. This technique is more viable nowadays than it was a few years ago since modern digital cameras produce high ISO images with very little noise. That said, if you try this technique in poor indoor light you’ll be pushing your camera’s limits and may well be dissatisfied by the results. Given a reasonable amount of light, it’s a versatile way of working.
Camera settings – Continuous Drive mode
Capturing pictures of your cat chasing a toy, leaping or running around a garden or scurrying up a tree is not going to be easy if you leave your camera in single shot mode. That is true unless you literally have lightning reflexes or get lucky with the timing. Therefore, if you know you’re going to be attempting action shots, switch your camera to its continuous drive or burst mode. You’ll need to set a fast shutter speed too if you want to freeze the action (I’d suggest a minimum of 1/500th of a second).
While this may be less skillful than snatching single photos with ninja-style dexterity, there is no shame in stacking the odds in your favor. Remember that your audience won’t usually care about how you took the photo but will admire great results.
9 – Black cats, white cats
Left to its own devices, your camera’s exposure meter will often underexpose a white cat and overexpose a black cat, particularly if they take up a large portion of the photo or are set against a similarly toned background. The white cat will look murky gray and the black will lose the deep luster of its fur and appear grayish, too. You can remedy this by using your camera’s exposure compensation feature and dialing in one or two stops of overexposure for a white cat or underexposure for black. While it’s generally better to do this in-camera, with digital you can usually fix it later when editing. Being aware of the issue is the main thing.
Lastly, take plenty of photos
If you keep pets through much of your life, sooner or later they’ll break your heart. Don’t be caught when it’s too late without any good photos of your beloved cat. Think about his or her personality and try to record their various traits on camera. Take lots of photos to enjoy during and after your pet’s lifespan, including selfies of you both together. Cherish your cat and celebrate living!
For more info check out: Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snap’n Paws
Did I miss anything? Please share your cat photos and tips below as well.
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The post 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.
from Digital Photography School https://digital-photography-school.com/9-tips-taking-better-photos-cats/
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joya34blanco · 7 years
Text
9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
For many of us, pets are such a vital part of our lives that we love them like our own flesh and blood, sometimes more! It’s only natural that we should want to capture them on camera and hold their memory close to our hearts. The problem is that taking great pet photos can be tricky, especially when the animal is a single-minded cat.
If you’re reading this, chances are you have a cat or two of your own, or maybe a whole pride of them (wrong cat, maybe). You might just be someone who enjoys photographing cats around your neighborhood. Whatever your story, I’m going to help you take great feline shots with these tips for getting better photos of cats.
1 – Patience is key
First things first; when photographing cats, you should expect a high failure rate. The more discerning you become as a photographer, the more this is the case. Cats are not an ideal subject for impatient types since they don’t strike obliging poses for long. Just as you’ve framed the shot, they’re likely to walk up to you and sniff the lens. If not that, they’ll turn their heads at the precise moment you release the shutter. Guessing what they’ll do next is part of the fun. Have your camera ready.
Cats tend to strike random funny poses, especially when they’re lolling about half asleep. To capture these comical moments, it’s best to always have a camera handy, even if it’s a phone. If you need to go dig out your camera before taking a shot, the cat will most likely hear you and move. Likewise, if you’re outside with your cat, have your camera ready for some outdoor action shots. You’ll miss great pictures if you first need to fetch your gear from inside a bag.
2 – Attention seeking
By now, you’ll know how much your cat likes to thwart you at every turn and foil your photo attempts. However, there are tactics you can use to get the pictures you want. When working alone, learn to use your camera one-handed, even though it’s not textbook technique. Set everything up on Auto so you don’t have to fiddle around before taking the shot. With the other hand, you’ll be attracting your cat’s attention. Clicking the fingers usually works for a time, until the cat wises up to it.
Cats are intrigued by rustling noises too, so you can crunch a paper bag to make the cat look towards you. Use a cat toy if you want a livelier picture, but the success rate will be lower. You’ll make life easier if there’s a window behind or beside you, so plenty of natural light falls on your cat’s face.
3 – Getting down to your cat’s level
One common mistake made by budding pet photographers is that they photograph their cat or dog from a human height. This rarely works well. Photos of animals taken on their own level tend to have more impact and show the animal’s personality better, from the perspective of an equal.
If you want to capture a cat in hunting mode, getting down to ground level gives the feeling of being the cat’s prey and adds drama to the photo. If it’s hard to adopt these low positions, you’ll achieve the same thing using a digital camera with a swivel screen. Since cats like to climb, you won’t always have to stoop to be at eye level.
4 – Frame your subject
Framing your cat in the shot with surroundings like long grass, shrubs, or tree foliage gives the photo added depth. It also creates the feeling of peeking into the cat’s own natural habitat, or his world. It’s a technique you’ll often see in wildlife photography. Indoors, you can frame your cat by including any cubby holes or hiding places that cats generally like. Comfy towel cupboards are a frequent favorite.
5 – Focus on the eyes
If you’re taking a close-up portrait of your cat, it’s important to make sure the eyes are in focus. This is surprisingly easy to get wrong in animals since it takes only slight carelessness to focus on the nose instead. The camera you use and its sensor size will affect how easy this is. A phone camera will typically give you loads of depth of field, so it’s difficult to get the eyes out of focus, whereas an SLR with a larger sensor gives a shallower depth of field and demands more control over technique.
If you’re taking the portrait from an angle, try to have the nearest eye in focus, as it looks unnatural to have only the far eye sharp. These same principles are generally applied to human portraits, too. They are only guidelines, however, so you can ignore them if you’re going for a specific effect.
6 – Lighting for cats
You’ve probably seen photos of people taken at night that exhibit the dreaded red-eye effect. This is the result of using a flash, either built into the camera or directly mounted onto it. Blood vessels in the back of human eyes create a red reflection. Cats and other animals have a special reflective layer in the back of their eyes that enhances night vision. This causes a variety of colors to be bounced back when a flash is aimed at them, but typically it will be blue in a kitten and green in an adult cat. These colors are more attractive than red, but still undesirable in your photo.
By mounting or holding a flashgun away from the camera, you can take night photos of your cat without this demonic eye effect. Covering the flash with a softbox will help avoid harsh shadows. High-quality flash photography requires a further investment in gear and is not strictly necessary when window light provides an easy and effective alternative. As well, digital cameras have greatly improved in high ISO performance in recent years, so you can grab photos in relatively low household light and avoid excessive noise in the picture. The only downside with that is you’ll be often forced to correct the color cast created by electric light bulbs.
Try photographing your cat outside when the sun is low in the sky. You’ll achieve some very attractive photos if the sunlight catches the cat’s fur, which requires that you shoot towards the sun. In this situation, you can sometimes get away with using a flash directly on your camera for a little “fill-flash”. The harsh green-eye effect that happens at night doesn’t occur if the flash is diluted by enough daylight. This avoids the cat itself being underexposed, which is a possibility when shooting into direct sunlight.
7 – Lens choice
A portrait lens around 85-130mm (or equivalent) works well with cats, giving just enough working distance that they don’t instantly make a beeline towards you. If it’s also a macro lens, like the classic Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, you’ll have the option of moving in for some ultra-close photos of eyes or even paws.
Wider reportage type lenses around 35mm are good for grabbing full-body photos of your cat. At the other end of the scale, a long telephoto lens allows a greater working distance and lets you be more selective about the background, as it will have a narrower field of view. You’ll probably go for a shorter lens indoors since you won’t need as much light to keep the photo sharp.
Compact cameras or a mobile phone will normally let you move in so close to your cat that you’re almost touching him or her, but be aware that this closeness distorts perspective and your cat’s features. Despite this drawback, the resulting photos are often pleasing enough.
8 – Camera settings
Manual Mode + Auto ISO
If you have a solely automatic camera, you can ignore this section, but it’s a neat trick for anyone with access to Manual mode and an Auto ISO feature. A lot of experienced pros and amateur photographers routinely set their cameras to Aperture Priority mode (Av/A) and have their ISO set to a low value for minimum image noise. The camera is then left to automatically adjust shutter speed for the correct exposure. This is fine, but it reduces the chances of taking sharp action photos in low light, as the shutter speed will often end up too slow. For cat photography, that’s a potential problem.
By setting the camera to Manual Mode in combination with Auto ISO, you always have control over the aperture and shutter speed settings, while the ISO is sorted out by the camera. In fact, the “manual” setting in this instance is no less automatic than aperture priority (Av/A) or shutter priority (Tv/S) modes but gives more creative control over the photo. This technique is more viable nowadays than it was a few years ago since modern digital cameras produce high ISO images with very little noise. That said, if you try this technique in poor indoor light you’ll be pushing your camera’s limits and may well be dissatisfied by the results. Given a reasonable amount of light, it’s a versatile way of working.
Camera settings – Continuous Drive mode
Capturing pictures of your cat chasing a toy, leaping or running around a garden or scurrying up a tree is not going to be easy if you leave your camera in single shot mode. That is true unless you literally have lightning reflexes or get lucky with the timing. Therefore, if you know you’re going to be attempting action shots, switch your camera to its continuous drive or burst mode. You’ll need to set a fast shutter speed too if you want to freeze the action (I’d suggest a minimum of 1/500th of a second).
While this may be less skillful than snatching single photos with ninja-style dexterity, there is no shame in stacking the odds in your favor. Remember that your audience won’t usually care about how you took the photo but will admire great results.
9 – Black cats, white cats
Left to its own devices, your camera’s exposure meter will often underexpose a white cat and overexpose a black cat, particularly if they take up a large portion of the photo or are set against a similarly toned background. The white cat will look murky gray and the black will lose the deep luster of its fur and appear grayish, too. You can remedy this by using your camera’s exposure compensation feature and dialing in one or two stops of overexposure for a white cat or underexposure for black. While it’s generally better to do this in-camera, with digital you can usually fix it later when editing. Being aware of the issue is the main thing.
Lastly, take plenty of photos
If you keep pets through much of your life, sooner or later they’ll break your heart. Don’t be caught when it’s too late without any good photos of your beloved cat. Think about his or her personality and try to record their various traits on camera. Take lots of photos to enjoy during and after your pet’s lifespan, including selfies of you both together. Cherish your cat and celebrate living!
For more info check out: Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snap’n Paws
Did I miss anything? Please share your cat photos and tips below as well.
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The post 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.
from Digital Photography School http://digital-photography-school.com/9-tips-taking-better-photos-cats/
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repwinpril9y0a1 · 7 years
Text
9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
For many of us, pets are such a vital part of our lives that we love them like our own flesh and blood, sometimes more! It’s only natural that we should want to capture them on camera and hold their memory close to our hearts. The problem is that taking great pet photos can be tricky, especially when the animal is a single-minded cat.
If you’re reading this, chances are you have a cat or two of your own, or maybe a whole pride of them (wrong cat, maybe). You might just be someone who enjoys photographing cats around your neighborhood. Whatever your story, I’m going to help you take great feline shots with these tips for getting better photos of cats.
1 – Patience is key
First things first; when photographing cats, you should expect a high failure rate. The more discerning you become as a photographer, the more this is the case. Cats are not an ideal subject for impatient types since they don’t strike obliging poses for long. Just as you’ve framed the shot, they’re likely to walk up to you and sniff the lens. If not that, they’ll turn their heads at the precise moment you release the shutter. Guessing what they’ll do next is part of the fun. Have your camera ready.
Cats tend to strike random funny poses, especially when they’re lolling about half asleep. To capture these comical moments, it’s best to always have a camera handy, even if it’s a phone. If you need to go dig out your camera before taking a shot, the cat will most likely hear you and move. Likewise, if you’re outside with your cat, have your camera ready for some outdoor action shots. You’ll miss great pictures if you first need to fetch your gear from inside a bag.
2 – Attention seeking
By now, you’ll know how much your cat likes to thwart you at every turn and foil your photo attempts. However, there are tactics you can use to get the pictures you want. When working alone, learn to use your camera one-handed, even though it’s not textbook technique. Set everything up on Auto so you don’t have to fiddle around before taking the shot. With the other hand, you’ll be attracting your cat’s attention. Clicking the fingers usually works for a time, until the cat wises up to it.
Cats are intrigued by rustling noises too, so you can crunch a paper bag to make the cat look towards you. Use a cat toy if you want a livelier picture, but the success rate will be lower. You’ll make life easier if there’s a window behind or beside you, so plenty of natural light falls on your cat’s face.
3 – Getting down to your cat’s level
One common mistake made by budding pet photographers is that they photograph their cat or dog from a human height. This rarely works well. Photos of animals taken on their own level tend to have more impact and show the animal’s personality better, from the perspective of an equal.
If you want to capture a cat in hunting mode, getting down to ground level gives the feeling of being the cat’s prey and adds drama to the photo. If it’s hard to adopt these low positions, you’ll achieve the same thing using a digital camera with a swivel screen. Since cats like to climb, you won’t always have to stoop to be at eye level.
4 – Frame your subject
Framing your cat in the shot with surroundings like long grass, shrubs, or tree foliage gives the photo added depth. It also creates the feeling of peeking into the cat’s own natural habitat, or his world. It’s a technique you’ll often see in wildlife photography. Indoors, you can frame your cat by including any cubby holes or hiding places that cats generally like. Comfy towel cupboards are a frequent favorite.
5 – Focus on the eyes
If you’re taking a close-up portrait of your cat, it’s important to make sure the eyes are in focus. This is surprisingly easy to get wrong in animals since it takes only slight carelessness to focus on the nose instead. The camera you use and its sensor size will affect how easy this is. A phone camera will typically give you loads of depth of field, so it’s difficult to get the eyes out of focus, whereas an SLR with a larger sensor gives a shallower depth of field and demands more control over technique.
If you’re taking the portrait from an angle, try to have the nearest eye in focus, as it looks unnatural to have only the far eye sharp. These same principles are generally applied to human portraits, too. They are only guidelines, however, so you can ignore them if you’re going for a specific effect.
6 – Lighting for cats
You’ve probably seen photos of people taken at night that exhibit the dreaded red-eye effect. This is the result of using a flash, either built into the camera or directly mounted onto it. Blood vessels in the back of human eyes create a red reflection. Cats and other animals have a special reflective layer in the back of their eyes that enhances night vision. This causes a variety of colors to be bounced back when a flash is aimed at them, but typically it will be blue in a kitten and green in an adult cat. These colors are more attractive than red, but still undesirable in your photo.
By mounting or holding a flashgun away from the camera, you can take night photos of your cat without this demonic eye effect. Covering the flash with a softbox will help avoid harsh shadows. High-quality flash photography requires a further investment in gear and is not strictly necessary when window light provides an easy and effective alternative. As well, digital cameras have greatly improved in high ISO performance in recent years, so you can grab photos in relatively low household light and avoid excessive noise in the picture. The only downside with that is you’ll be often forced to correct the color cast created by electric light bulbs.
Try photographing your cat outside when the sun is low in the sky. You’ll achieve some very attractive photos if the sunlight catches the cat’s fur, which requires that you shoot towards the sun. In this situation, you can sometimes get away with using a flash directly on your camera for a little “fill-flash”. The harsh green-eye effect that happens at night doesn’t occur if the flash is diluted by enough daylight. This avoids the cat itself being underexposed, which is a possibility when shooting into direct sunlight.
7 – Lens choice
A portrait lens around 85-130mm (or equivalent) works well with cats, giving just enough working distance that they don’t instantly make a beeline towards you. If it’s also a macro lens, like the classic Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, you’ll have the option of moving in for some ultra-close photos of eyes or even paws.
Wider reportage type lenses around 35mm are good for grabbing full-body photos of your cat. At the other end of the scale, a long telephoto lens allows a greater working distance and lets you be more selective about the background, as it will have a narrower field of view. You’ll probably go for a shorter lens indoors since you won’t need as much light to keep the photo sharp.
Compact cameras or a mobile phone will normally let you move in so close to your cat that you’re almost touching him or her, but be aware that this closeness distorts perspective and your cat’s features. Despite this drawback, the resulting photos are often pleasing enough.
8 – Camera settings Manual Mode + Auto ISO
If you have a solely automatic camera, you can ignore this section, but it’s a neat trick for anyone with access to Manual mode and an Auto ISO feature. A lot of experienced pros and amateur photographers routinely set their cameras to Aperture Priority mode (Av/A) and have their ISO set to a low value for minimum image noise. The camera is then left to automatically adjust shutter speed for the correct exposure. This is fine, but it reduces the chances of taking sharp action photos in low light, as the shutter speed will often end up too slow. For cat photography, that’s a potential problem.
By setting the camera to Manual Mode in combination with Auto ISO, you always have control over the aperture and shutter speed settings, while the ISO is sorted out by the camera. In fact, the “manual” setting in this instance is no less automatic than aperture priority (Av/A) or shutter priority (Tv/S) modes but gives more creative control over the photo. This technique is more viable nowadays than it was a few years ago since modern digital cameras produce high ISO images with very little noise. That said, if you try this technique in poor indoor light you’ll be pushing your camera’s limits and may well be dissatisfied by the results. Given a reasonable amount of light, it’s a versatile way of working.
Camera settings – Continuous Drive mode
Capturing pictures of your cat chasing a toy, leaping or running around a garden or scurrying up a tree is not going to be easy if you leave your camera in single shot mode. That is true unless you literally have lightning reflexes or get lucky with the timing. Therefore, if you know you’re going to be attempting action shots, switch your camera to its continuous drive or burst mode. You’ll need to set a fast shutter speed too if you want to freeze the action (I’d suggest a minimum of 1/500th of a second).
While this may be less skillful than snatching single photos with ninja-style dexterity, there is no shame in stacking the odds in your favor. Remember that your audience won’t usually care about how you took the photo but will admire great results.
9 – Black cats, white cats
Left to its own devices, your camera’s exposure meter will often underexpose a white cat and overexpose a black cat, particularly if they take up a large portion of the photo or are set against a similarly toned background. The white cat will look murky gray and the black will lose the deep luster of its fur and appear grayish, too. You can remedy this by using your camera’s exposure compensation feature and dialing in one or two stops of overexposure for a white cat or underexposure for black. While it’s generally better to do this in-camera, with digital you can usually fix it later when editing. Being aware of the issue is the main thing.
Lastly, take plenty of photos
If you keep pets through much of your life, sooner or later they’ll break your heart. Don’t be caught when it’s too late without any good photos of your beloved cat. Think about his or her personality and try to record their various traits on camera. Take lots of photos to enjoy during and after your pet’s lifespan, including selfies of you both together. Cherish your cat and celebrate living!
For more info check out: Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snap’n Paws
Did I miss anything? Please share your cat photos and tips below as well.
The post 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.
from DIYS http://ift.tt/2liH0js
0 notes
repwincoml4a0a5 · 7 years
Text
9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats
For many of us, pets are such a vital part of our lives that we love them like our own flesh and blood, sometimes more! It’s only natural that we should want to capture them on camera and hold their memory close to our hearts. The problem is that taking great pet photos can be tricky, especially when the animal is a single-minded cat.
If you’re reading this, chances are you have a cat or two of your own, or maybe a whole pride of them (wrong cat, maybe). You might just be someone who enjoys photographing cats around your neighborhood. Whatever your story, I’m going to help you take great feline shots with these tips for getting better photos of cats.
1 – Patience is key
First things first; when photographing cats, you should expect a high failure rate. The more discerning you become as a photographer, the more this is the case. Cats are not an ideal subject for impatient types since they don’t strike obliging poses for long. Just as you’ve framed the shot, they’re likely to walk up to you and sniff the lens. If not that, they’ll turn their heads at the precise moment you release the shutter. Guessing what they’ll do next is part of the fun. Have your camera ready.
Cats tend to strike random funny poses, especially when they’re lolling about half asleep. To capture these comical moments, it’s best to always have a camera handy, even if it’s a phone. If you need to go dig out your camera before taking a shot, the cat will most likely hear you and move. Likewise, if you’re outside with your cat, have your camera ready for some outdoor action shots. You’ll miss great pictures if you first need to fetch your gear from inside a bag.
2 – Attention seeking
By now, you’ll know how much your cat likes to thwart you at every turn and foil your photo attempts. However, there are tactics you can use to get the pictures you want. When working alone, learn to use your camera one-handed, even though it’s not textbook technique. Set everything up on Auto so you don’t have to fiddle around before taking the shot. With the other hand, you’ll be attracting your cat’s attention. Clicking the fingers usually works for a time, until the cat wises up to it.
Cats are intrigued by rustling noises too, so you can crunch a paper bag to make the cat look towards you. Use a cat toy if you want a livelier picture, but the success rate will be lower. You’ll make life easier if there’s a window behind or beside you, so plenty of natural light falls on your cat’s face.
3 – Getting down to your cat’s level
One common mistake made by budding pet photographers is that they photograph their cat or dog from a human height. This rarely works well. Photos of animals taken on their own level tend to have more impact and show the animal’s personality better, from the perspective of an equal.
If you want to capture a cat in hunting mode, getting down to ground level gives the feeling of being the cat’s prey and adds drama to the photo. If it’s hard to adopt these low positions, you’ll achieve the same thing using a digital camera with a swivel screen. Since cats like to climb, you won’t always have to stoop to be at eye level.
4 – Frame your subject
Framing your cat in the shot with surroundings like long grass, shrubs, or tree foliage gives the photo added depth. It also creates the feeling of peeking into the cat’s own natural habitat, or his world. It’s a technique you’ll often see in wildlife photography. Indoors, you can frame your cat by including any cubby holes or hiding places that cats generally like. Comfy towel cupboards are a frequent favorite.
5 – Focus on the eyes
If you’re taking a close-up portrait of your cat, it’s important to make sure the eyes are in focus. This is surprisingly easy to get wrong in animals since it takes only slight carelessness to focus on the nose instead. The camera you use and its sensor size will affect how easy this is. A phone camera will typically give you loads of depth of field, so it’s difficult to get the eyes out of focus, whereas an SLR with a larger sensor gives a shallower depth of field and demands more control over technique.
If you’re taking the portrait from an angle, try to have the nearest eye in focus, as it looks unnatural to have only the far eye sharp. These same principles are generally applied to human portraits, too. They are only guidelines, however, so you can ignore them if you’re going for a specific effect.
6 – Lighting for cats
You’ve probably seen photos of people taken at night that exhibit the dreaded red-eye effect. This is the result of using a flash, either built into the camera or directly mounted onto it. Blood vessels in the back of human eyes create a red reflection. Cats and other animals have a special reflective layer in the back of their eyes that enhances night vision. This causes a variety of colors to be bounced back when a flash is aimed at them, but typically it will be blue in a kitten and green in an adult cat. These colors are more attractive than red, but still undesirable in your photo.
By mounting or holding a flashgun away from the camera, you can take night photos of your cat without this demonic eye effect. Covering the flash with a softbox will help avoid harsh shadows. High-quality flash photography requires a further investment in gear and is not strictly necessary when window light provides an easy and effective alternative. As well, digital cameras have greatly improved in high ISO performance in recent years, so you can grab photos in relatively low household light and avoid excessive noise in the picture. The only downside with that is you’ll be often forced to correct the color cast created by electric light bulbs.
Try photographing your cat outside when the sun is low in the sky. You’ll achieve some very attractive photos if the sunlight catches the cat’s fur, which requires that you shoot towards the sun. In this situation, you can sometimes get away with using a flash directly on your camera for a little “fill-flash”. The harsh green-eye effect that happens at night doesn’t occur if the flash is diluted by enough daylight. This avoids the cat itself being underexposed, which is a possibility when shooting into direct sunlight.
7 – Lens choice
A portrait lens around 85-130mm (or equivalent) works well with cats, giving just enough working distance that they don’t instantly make a beeline towards you. If it’s also a macro lens, like the classic Tamron 90mm 1:1 macro, you’ll have the option of moving in for some ultra-close photos of eyes or even paws.
Wider reportage type lenses around 35mm are good for grabbing full-body photos of your cat. At the other end of the scale, a long telephoto lens allows a greater working distance and lets you be more selective about the background, as it will have a narrower field of view. You’ll probably go for a shorter lens indoors since you won’t need as much light to keep the photo sharp.
Compact cameras or a mobile phone will normally let you move in so close to your cat that you’re almost touching him or her, but be aware that this closeness distorts perspective and your cat’s features. Despite this drawback, the resulting photos are often pleasing enough.
8 – Camera settings Manual Mode + Auto ISO
If you have a solely automatic camera, you can ignore this section, but it’s a neat trick for anyone with access to Manual mode and an Auto ISO feature. A lot of experienced pros and amateur photographers routinely set their cameras to Aperture Priority mode (Av/A) and have their ISO set to a low value for minimum image noise. The camera is then left to automatically adjust shutter speed for the correct exposure. This is fine, but it reduces the chances of taking sharp action photos in low light, as the shutter speed will often end up too slow. For cat photography, that’s a potential problem.
By setting the camera to Manual Mode in combination with Auto ISO, you always have control over the aperture and shutter speed settings, while the ISO is sorted out by the camera. In fact, the “manual” setting in this instance is no less automatic than aperture priority (Av/A) or shutter priority (Tv/S) modes but gives more creative control over the photo. This technique is more viable nowadays than it was a few years ago since modern digital cameras produce high ISO images with very little noise. That said, if you try this technique in poor indoor light you’ll be pushing your camera’s limits and may well be dissatisfied by the results. Given a reasonable amount of light, it’s a versatile way of working.
Camera settings – Continuous Drive mode
Capturing pictures of your cat chasing a toy, leaping or running around a garden or scurrying up a tree is not going to be easy if you leave your camera in single shot mode. That is true unless you literally have lightning reflexes or get lucky with the timing. Therefore, if you know you’re going to be attempting action shots, switch your camera to its continuous drive or burst mode. You’ll need to set a fast shutter speed too if you want to freeze the action (I’d suggest a minimum of 1/500th of a second).
While this may be less skillful than snatching single photos with ninja-style dexterity, there is no shame in stacking the odds in your favor. Remember that your audience won’t usually care about how you took the photo but will admire great results.
9 – Black cats, white cats
Left to its own devices, your camera’s exposure meter will often underexpose a white cat and overexpose a black cat, particularly if they take up a large portion of the photo or are set against a similarly toned background. The white cat will look murky gray and the black will lose the deep luster of its fur and appear grayish, too. You can remedy this by using your camera’s exposure compensation feature and dialing in one or two stops of overexposure for a white cat or underexposure for black. While it’s generally better to do this in-camera, with digital you can usually fix it later when editing. Being aware of the issue is the main thing.
Lastly, take plenty of photos
If you keep pets through much of your life, sooner or later they’ll break your heart. Don’t be caught when it’s too late without any good photos of your beloved cat. Think about his or her personality and try to record their various traits on camera. Take lots of photos to enjoy during and after your pet’s lifespan, including selfies of you both together. Cherish your cat and celebrate living!
For more info check out: Your Essential Guide to Photographing Cats and Dogs: Snap’n Paws
Did I miss anything? Please share your cat photos and tips below as well.
The post 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats by Glenn Harper appeared first on Digital Photography School.
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