#what does exeller classify as
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Team Exeller
Alright, there's another quick plot point I need to explain.
I'm sure many of you are familiar with Sonic.exe. If you are not, then you're too young to be on this blog.
Anyway, in the Sonic.exe: The Spirits of Hell, he's referred to as Exeller. His origins vary based on the writers, but I've come up with some of my own:
*SPOILERS AHEAD*
We all remember the scene from Sonic X where Maria saved Shadow. But there were supposedly three pods that escaped from the ARK. One of those pods contained Shadow.
With all the trials and tribulations that came with Project Shadow, it led me to wonder whether or not Shadow himself was the only prototype for such an experiment. Were there more 'Shadows'? Were they what was contained in the other two escape pods? And if so, where are they now?
That's where Exeller comes in.
Exeller was the first prototype for Project Shadow. However, he found a way to tap into a power even stronger than the Chaos Emeralds. A power that could warp time and space beyond recognition. Gerald Robotnik had no idea he'd need the inhibitors that our Shadow wears, so he sealed Exeller away until he can find a way to contain his power.
The second prototype was less threatening, but he still had a lust for trouble. He would often pull pranks on the staff and Maria that would go too far, like smashing beakers containing important substances or throwing staining ink on all of Maria's clothes. Gerald grew sick of it, so he sealed that one away as well. He became known as Luster.
Finally, then came Shadow. He was much more disciplined than Luster, and Gerald had finally completed the inhibitors he started working on for Exeller. But then GUN raided the ARK. Maria was killed, she saved Shadow, and the rest is history, right?
Wrong.
Like I said, Maria pulled the lever to eject three pods, and only one contained Shadow. So what was in the other two?
Why, Luster and Exeller, of course.
Why did Maria save the 'defective' prototypes?
Well, it was because she thought they deserved a chance of redemption and also because if GUN got their hands on them, it would be bad.
Anyway, Luster and Exeller awoke long before Shadow did. They were both confused as to why there were two of them. Soon enough, they managed to put the pieces together and were furious with Gerald and Maria. However, the two were already dead, so they couldn't take their anger out on them. So everything was fine, right?
Wrong.
Because, whoopsie, they found out about Shadow.
And double whoopsie, Exeller had no inhibitors, so he was far too powerful to be let loose on Mobius, but he was anyway.
And whoopsie number threesie, neither he nor Luster were big fans of Shadow after learning that he was the Robotnik's 'favorite'.
So the two decide to split up and get revenge on this 'perfect' Shadow. Exeller's powers include - but are not limited to - traversing the different multiverses. He also has the ability to create artificial life forms of his own, made of nothing but pure malice and lust for carnage. So that's exactly what he did. He created his own minions: Stitch and Rosy (who are parodies of Tails Doll and Rosy Rascal). With his powers and lackeys by his side, Exeller became known as the Lord of the Multiverse.
Over time, he came to learn that he needed to find a way to get closer to Shadow with minimal effort.
Enter Opal.
Exeller also has the ability to possess a host and drive them into madness. So he took advantage of Gadget's disappearance to push Opal over the edge. Ever since, she's been doing his bidding to find her brother and bring him home. Only recently has she broken free of his control.
Whatever could that mean, I wonder?
It's unclear what Luster was doing during that time, but he was most likely tracking down Shadow. When he met back up with his 'brother', they became known as Team Exeller. And now, if they find Shadow, they're probably not gonna allow him to live.
And another thing: over time, Exeller has developed something he calls 'Dusk Rings'. The full name of the golden Rings Sonic has is 'Dawn Rings'. The Dawn Rings allow one to traverse space. The Dusk Rings allow one to traverse time. If the two are combined, they become 'Eclipse Rings', which allow one to traverse anywhere in time and space.
Okay, that's all.
#what does exeller classify as#a hedgehog?#we'll just go with exeller for now#exeller#luster#stitch#rosy#they don't classify as mobians for sure#i'll figure it out#dani speaks#sonic the hedgehog#sonic boom#not a quote
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A Short Explanation of pH and the Aquarium Fish, and the Domestic Betta as an Example
I have seen a lot of discourse lately on pH levels and water hardness, and whether they are or are not important factors to consider when keeping fishes. A lot of what I have seen has revolved around yes or no, with little true explanation given as to why that answer is, presumably, the correct one. In sorting out my own thoughts on the matter, I put together this post to share my input on the subject. Nothing in this post was written in direct address to anyone in particular, rather it is my general thoughts on the topic as well as how it might relate to domestic bettas specifically. I am, as always, more than open to conversation if anyone has anything they would like to address or add!
Also, a quick note: I used The Manual of Fish Health by Dr. Chris Andrews, Adrian Exell, and Dr. Neville Carrington as a reference for several definitions and facts while writing this, but there are many other resources out there that address pH, water hardness, and their relevance to fish health and fish keeping. I have read and cross-referenced many of these myself while doing my own research over the years, and I highly urge everyone to consult some of these resources, if they can, before making their own final judgements on the topic.
So let’s begin with an important definition: what exactly pH even is.
The pH value measures the hydrogen ion concentration of a solution, and is used to indicate “whether a mass of water is acid, alkaline, or neutral” (Andrews, Exell, Carrington, 35). pH is measured on a logarithmic scale ranging from 0 to 14, with everything under 7 being classified as acid, 7 itself being neutral, and everything above 7 being classified as alkaline. The logarithmic component is of particular importance, as it means the difference between numbers on the scale is greater than appears at face value. This looks something like the following:
< 0 --- acid ---7 (neutral) ---alkaline --- 14 >
pH 4 is 10x more acidic than pH 5, and 100x more acidic than pH 6
ph 9 is 10x more alkaline than pH 8, and 100x more alkaline than pH 7
There are a multitude of factors that can affect the pH level of a particular body of water: plant metabolism, the breakdown of organic materials, and the addition of products uniquely developed for the purpose of adjusting pH levels, to name a few. Each body of water will also possess a buffering capacity that determines how easily the pH level rises and falls. For the aquarium, pH and water hardness are dependent both on the source water and any modifications or additions the aquarist makes to that particular aquatic environment.
There are over 30,000 species of fish on the planet, each uniquely adapted and equipped to live in their particular environment. To say that pH is unimportant to a fish species- any fish species- is a fundamental misunderstanding of how exactly it is that fishes work, and how each species has evolved to reach the point it is at today.
The pH level of an aquatic environment has a number of effects on the fishes inhabiting it, and each fish species has evolved over many years to maintain their ideal internal environment at a particular pH level. There are even specific names for fishes that are suited for acid water (acidophiles) and those that are suited for alkaline waters (alkalophiles) (Andrews, Exell, Carrington, 37). Fishes are typically not very tolerant of rapid changes in pH, and any adjustment an aquarist attempts to make to the pH level should be done very gradually over an extended period of time to allow the animals time to adequately adjust to the change. As such it is often said that it is better to leave the pH at a constant level than it is to try and change it to a particular value, but it is important to clarify that proper pH for a given species should still be the end goal, even if the aquarist must wait and only try to adjust the pH once they fully understand what it is they are doing (or else not keep particular species in the first place).
Incorrect pH levels can result in stress, illness, and even death; effects can include symptoms such as abnormal behavior, excess slime coat production, and destruction of fin and gill tissue (Andrews, Exell, Carrington, 38-39). In less extreme, but still incorrect, conditions, long-term stress and the issues that come along with it can also occur. Proper pH levels, in contrast, are extremely important in helping a fish “to maintain a constant internal pH level and an acid/base… balance in the blood” (Andrews, Exell, Carrington, 37). Proper pH levels allow adequate oxygen-carrying in the blood, and also affect other aspects of a fish’s physiology, such as their immune system.
So it isn’t really debatable whether or not pH matters to fishes, not if you look at the vast library of resources available and take into consideration the input of professionals such as ichthyologists and fish veterinarians. And if you take into consideration the logarithmic nature of the pH scale, being even one level away from a species’s ideal pH has the potential to greatly affect them. Where the debate really comes into consideration is when you ask questions such as: “how does pH effect this particular fish species?”, “what exact pH level is best for this fish species?”, and “is it better to leave pH where you know it is consistent, or to try to adjust it to fit the species’s preferred level?”
Because I have seen it come up multiple times now (and admittedly yes, because I keep them myself), I decided to take a look at a domesticated fish species- the domestic betta fish- as an example.
There has been- to my knowledge- no scientific research conducted on domesticated Betta splendens and the effects of various pH levels on their longevity and welfare. A lack of supporting scientific evidence does not, in my eyes, make an idea immediately invalid or unworthy of discussion. However, I think it is important for people to keep this point in mind, and remember that at this point in time, when it comes to this particular topic, all we have are our experiences, anecdotes, and what information can be extrapolated from scientific research that has been done in other areas. No two aquarists will have the exact same fish keeping background or experience, and expressing respect for these varying viewpoints and experiences is important in having conversation and discourse that is fruitful and beneficial to everyone involved (including the fishes!).
This being said, what is the ideal pH level for a domesticated betta fish? As was noted before, scientifically, we don’t know. We cannot say that one pH level or another is ideal for a domestic betta and back it up with scientific evidence demonstrated by a study designed to provide just that. We can look at the natural habitats of the wild animals this species is derived from, and this might, overall, suggest that softer, more acidic waters are the ideal. Some will point out that domesticated bettas are just that- domesticated, and therefore what is or is not a “natural” environment for them can be debated. However, this issue and its relation to pH can also be addressed.
It is, to my knowledge, unknown scientifically how the process of domestication affects a fish’s physiology in regards to pH levels and their effect on the body. However, looking at what is known generally about the domestication process, it seems unlikely that this is something that would be inherently affected by domestication unless specifically selected for. Domestication is known to change components of an animal’s behavior, such as their behavior towards humans, and this is something that is apparent when comparing a domestic betta to many non-domesticated fish species. Domestication is also known to change an animal’s physical appearance, something that is also readily apparent when looking at a domestic betta fish as compared to their wild relatives and ancestors. Lastly, domestication can affect an animal’s physiology, but does not seem to inherently have a large effect on the base physiological processes an animal’s body performs in order to survive.
Domesticated bettas need to be fed daily on a high-protein diet, because their metabolism and dietary needs have not been greatly altered by domestication. They still need to breathe atmospheric oxygen, lest they drown, and this need has not been changed either. They still require freshwater in order to osmoregulate properly, and can still be burned by the presence of harmful chemicals such as ammonia in the aquarium. The physiological processes involving pH and water hardness fall along the same lines as those listed, and it seems unlikely that they would have been affected by domestication where other similar processes were not.
In conclusion, bettas are almost undoubtedly affected by pH in one way or another, as to be affected by pH is simply a fact of life for a fish. And it is logical, given what we know, to assume domestic bettas might prefer a pH level closer to that of their wild ancestors as opposed to one that greatly differs. The true question is how, if at all, this affects their welfare. For clarification, I mean animal welfare specifically, defined as the animal’s ability to cope with its environment. So how does pH affect a betta’s ability to cope with their environment?
I have been keeping domestic bettas for 5 years now, and of the more than 20 individual bettas I have cared for, almost all of them have passed of natural causes related to age. This was true before I started keeping my bettas in acidic water, and it is still true afterwards. I have not observed any signs of poor welfare that I- with the knowledge and resources available to me at the time- have been able to attribute specifically to keeping domestic bettas in water of a particular pH level.
However, I have noticed positive changes over the past year and a half that I have felt comfortable associating with the change I have made to consistently keeping my bettas in softer, more acidic, tannin-rich water. A couple of these include better fin condition (particular for bettas who routinely injure their fins, such as chronic fin biters), and potentially, increased longevity. My current oldest betta, Maes, has gone far longer without displaying typical physical signs of aging than any other betta I have cared for, and he has been kept in this sort of environment for the entirety of his time with me. However, it will likely be a couple of years yet before I can say with more certainty whether or not this is an individual occurrence, or related to pH levels and water hardness and a common experience across individuals.
There are a lot of potential conclusions I could draw from my own anecdotal experiences. Maybe tannin-rich, acidic water provides benefits to a domestic betta fish, but is not absolutely critical to ensuring they are able to cope with their environment. Maybe it is a critical component of betta care, that greatly decreases occurrences of illness while also increasing longevity, and is something that will become more apparent to me over the lifespans of my current and future bettas .
My overall conclusion, however, is that pH and water hardness do matter, but only so much as any other component of betta care does. That is to say, they are important, but no more or less important than proper diet, or proper temperature. At its core this issue is an animal welfare issue, and animal welfare is rarely ever so simple as “this = good, this = bad”. Relationships are always at play and this particular issue, in my opinion, is no different. pH is another component to consider, another cog in the machine and another part of the whole.
It is my belief and my experience that hard, alkaline water alone is unlikely to be the factor that causes your betta to die early, or come down with illnesses constantly, so long as other care conditions are being met. In other words, keeping a betta in this sort of water does not automatically mean they are merely surviving, not thriving. However, creating that acidic, tannin-rich environment for your betta could potentially result in better welfare- and increased health and longevity- overall. If nothing else, it doesn’t hurt to try (so long as you do it right) and see what happens, and the potential benefits, in my opinion, are more than worth doing so!
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Construction Composites Market Overview, Sales, Opportunities, Supply, Share, Growth Analysis, Trends, Forecast to 2025
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In September, Mexico issued rules banning operation of drones by non-Mexicans, nationwide #drones #quadcopters #UAS
Para poder operar un dron sin que te ganes una multa debes cubrir ciertos requisitos. Te decimos cuáles son.
Source: ¿Cómo se tramita la licencia para volar un dron?
Anyone flying a drone over 25 kg mass must meet the requirements for a remote pilot’s license (see below) which birth certificate or document identifying you as a Mexican national, passage of necessary examinations, “proof of pscyhophysical aptitude”.
To operate a small drone (less than 25 kg) you do not need a license but you must register your drone and you must be a Mexican national.
This prohibits the operation of drones in Mexico by all foreign visitors.
Google Translation
The rules to operate drones will come into effect in December of this year, and if you do not comply with them, you can become a creditor, so we give you the steps to follow to fly it under the law.
According to the Ministry of Communications and Transportation (SCT) and the General Directorate of Civil Aviation, this is what you must do to fly an Aircraft Piloted at Distance (RPAS, for its acronym in English) or a drone in Mexico :
The drones are classified according to their size in RPAS micro (2.00 kg or less), small RPAS (from 2.001 kg to 25 kg) and large RPAS (25 kilograms or more).
To obtain the pilot license of the large RPAS:
1.- Written request.
2.-Be at least 18 years old.
3. Birth certificate or document that accredits you as a Mexican.
4.-Formats registration card that you of the Civil Aeronautics.
5.- Proof of payment of fees for training permit, exam application and issuance of license.
6.-Document proving having submitted and approved the practical and theoretical examinations established by the aeronautical authority.
7.- Certificate issued by an instruction center recognized by the aeronautical authority.
8.- Proof of psychophysical aptitude in force 90 days from the date of issue, issued by the General Directorate of Transport Protection and Preventive Medicine.
9.- The license has a validity of three years from its issuance and may be canceled by the aeronautical authority for irresponsible operation, use for criminal purposes and at the request of the interested party.
To operate a micro and small RAPS does not require a license but you must register it :
The registration is free and you can do it online, you will receive the document in 10 business days.
1.-First you have to register it before Civil Aeronautics before operating it. In order to register you must have Mexican nationality, be of legal age (otherwise the parent or guardian can do it) and fill out a form.
2.- Once the form is completed, you must send it clarifying one of these two options: for Registration of RPAS commercialized in Mexico or Regsitros of RPAS by owners as the case may be.
3.- If you are a natural person you have to prove your personality by attaching a digitized copy of your INE or any official identification.
4.- If you are a moral person you have to prove your personality by attaching a digitalized copy of the constitutive act (legal registration of the creation of the company) and the power of attorney of the legal representative.
5.- Take into account that you must have at hand: digitalized copy of the documentation that proves the ownership or possession of your RPAS (supported formats .pdf, .docx, .jpg or .png)
6.- Send an email to the address [email protected] requesting registration for a RPAS, attaching the completed form to Exel, along with a printed version signed by you, manually adding your RFC with homoclave; also the digitized copies of the documentation that proves the ownership or possession of your RPAS.
7.- Finally, wait for your record sheet or the considerations to cover to obtain the same in the electronic address that you gave.
The regulation regulating the operation of drones in Mexico, published in the Official Gazette of the Federation (DOF), will come into effect in December 2018 and the fine for flying drones without a license could cost up to 403 thousand pesos. It is still a project and is subject to 60 business days for consultation.
This regulation is addressed to any individual or entity that owns or owns a RPAS.
Only State RPAS that carry out military, police, border and maritime patrols are exempt . These conform to other regulations.
In September, Mexico issued rules banning operation of drones by non-Mexicans, nationwide #drones #quadcopters #UAS was originally published on Guide to VR 3D Photos and Video
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