#wildportugal

[lostmuhnkee]

There's so much to love about this picture that represents the coast of Portugal - the green of the slope, the waterfall, the rolling waves and the approaching storm. It looks like something out of a Nat Geo film, but so much better because I'm actually here! #rotavicentina #travelportugal #hikeportugal #alentejo #wildportugal (at Rota Vicentina)

[wildportugal-blog]

Wild Skinny-dipping in Portugal

Stripping bare and plunging into a lake, a sparkling river or a thrillingly deep clear mountain pool is one of the most direct ways to reconnect with nature. As we bare all to the wild and immerse ourselves in it, we let it shape us, flow around us and so mould us.

Lie back to float, spread like a star, in volcanic lakes under clear skies at Lagoa Azul, or let a gentle current take you downstream as dragonflies alight on your body in Rio Couro. Strip off at a secret beach and let the waves surge around you. Feel your pulse race as you jump into a mountain pool in Gerês or swim bravely up to a thundering waterfall and let it pummel your body. Water gives us unhindered freedom of movement and many of Portugal’s rivers, waterfalls and lakes – and a good number of beaches where naturism is accepted – are in secluded spots, perfect for a skinny dip which only adds to this unhindered freedom. Here are three of our favourite places:

Rio Teixeira

The River Teixeira is one of the cleanest rivers in Europe. At this point, just below the bridge, there is a poço, a well, carved by two millennia of water. Further down, the gleaming river snakes between mottled feldspar and granite worn to smooth pebbles. The river belly dips deeper again and a rope swing dangles over. On a sunny afternoon the glade is shaded by a green, dappled canopy.

Ponte de São João, Rio Coura

A scrabble down a steep stony track yields a vast azure pool. Dive from huge rocks and swim into quartz caves. Filled by the mountain spring which begins high in the hills at monastery of São João.

Queda do Vigário

The name 'Fall of the Vicar' conjures beguiling nymphs and heady sunlight. The waterfall and pool, with its deep cool water, flowery banks and a hidden cave, certainly conjures the requisite Pre-Raphaelite backdrop. Inside the cave, stalactites drip like hundreds of guttering candles in a long-forgotten chapel.

For many more deserted places to shed your shorts and dive in (with maps, coordinates and directions to the wild places) pre-order a copy of the guidebook Wild Guide to Portugal here. Viva!

[naturalswimmingspirit]

eddipitcher

Be brave, take a leap and stay wild at heart 💚❤️💚❤️💚❤️💚❤️💚❤️💚reconnect with Nature this valentine #wildportugal #valentine #skinnydipping #riverswimming #adventure #lovetravel #portugal_de_sonho #portugaldenorteasul #naturismo #visitportugal #visitaveiro #explore #livewild #portugalemfotos #amarportugal

[lostmuhnkee]

One of our guides, André, helping us on a creek crossing (before it dumps into the ocean!) #rotavicentina #travelportugal #wildportugal #reiadventures (at Rota Vicentina)

[wildportugal-blog]

Wild Guide to Portugal

Three years ago I set out on foot from Lisbon to northern Spain with an army-issue water bottle, a bivvy bag and a pocket knife. Since then, with the help of friend and collaborator Diana Matoso, I discovered more and more wild places – hidden beaches, lost ruins, little-known vineyards and star-gazing spots. Now my guidebook to all these places is due out 3rd April 2017 published by Wild Things Publishing - click here to pre-order

This book details places to walk, swim, feast and sleep illustrated with photographs, maps, directions and GPS co-ordinates. We shared our journey with shepherds, discovered ancient earth-dug caves, walking routes, sunset hilltops, hidden springs and tasted mountain cheeses, drank hearty red wines and star-gazed under the moon. I am now sure that waking up to birdsong, river mist and an early plunge into clear water is my favourite way to start the day.

We climbed to peaks and rocky summits and saw Portugal laid flat as a map beneath. We followed forgotten roman roads and locals' directions and began to fully appreciate the Portuguese phrase “if you have a tongue, you can get to Rome.” This book is about a land woven over with paths and stories left by its people: Celts and Moorish settlers, Romans along trade routes and along its sacred routes the saints, sinners, queens, beggars, musicians, miracle-workers and us.

The end result of these journeys is this compendium of wild, secret and beautiful places across Portugal. I hope that this book inspires many more wild adventures.

For more info and to place orders click here: Wild Guide Portugal

[susanaaraujophotography]

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A post shared by Susana Araújo Photography (@footroute)

#nofilters #scarceswallowtail #butterfly #centrodeportugal #centrogeodesico #portugallandscape #wildportugal (em Centro Geodésico De Portugal)

[wildportugal-blog]

Ten Wild Things to do in Sintra

The Sintra hills just north of Lisbon have long been considered places of retreat and enchantment. Wild ancient woodland with hidden caves, Moorish castles and princely palaces cover the hills. Along its coast are secret beaches with significantly fewer towels and parasols than the Lisbon beaches to the south. Make like the ancient Lisbon royalty and escape the summer city buzz to these wild places, seemingly forgotten by all but you and the seagulls wheeling overhead. 

1. Praia da Adraga

The enigmatic Sintra hills drop down to dramatic cliffs at the coast with several secret coves. Praia da Adraga lies in a valley between two cliffs. It is sandy and at one end rocks arch into the sea, forming a shape like an elephant's trunk. On hot summer days this provides welcome shade and there’s a small cave to explore at low tide. The crashing waves here make it popular with surfers but the beach itself remains little visited. Just behind the beach is a little restaurant with outdoor seating; a great place to try the local seafood. From here you can follow a walking trail leading up from the cove along the cliffs for 5km south to Cabo da Roca, the most western tip of Europe.

NB For surfing contact Adraga Surf Camp in nearby village of Ulgueira +351 912 590 651 www.adragasurfcamp.net

Getting there

From Sintra take the N247 west towards the coast for 10km, turn right at brown signs for the Praia da Adraga and follow the road for 1km to the coast.

38.8035, -9.4854

2. Azenhas do Mar

Perched on a cliff, this village is built as close to the sea as it is possible to be. It's tiled roofs ramble down to the rocky shore. The town merges gradually into the sea as three natural rock-sided swimming pools fill with the rising tide. There is no beach but a brook babbles down past a grassy picnic area, further up old watermills turn.

Getting there

From Sintra take the N247 NW for 10km. Parking just outside the town.

38.8394, -9.4609

3. Quinta da Regaleira

The Regaleira Palace in an exuberantly Gothic palace with turrets, colonettes, lancet windows and gargoyles that reach up to the misty hills as though they grew from the encroaching forest. Built by the eccentric 19th century architect Luigi Manini, the grounds are riddled with alcoves, secrets tunnels, caves, underground waterfalls and a well with a twisting gothic staircase. A wild garden perfect for explorations and hidden picnics.

Getting there

Follow walking signs from Sintra historical centre for about 2km. Quinta da Regaleira, 2710-567 Sintra +351 21 910 66 50 geral@cultursintra.pt

38.7962, -9.3960

4. Quinta do Pisão

A 450 hectare park in the foothills of Sintra where you can visit woolly donkeys and explore a network of woodland trails. Look out for barn owls, chickadees and larks.

Getting there

Signed off the N9-1 in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. Parking. +351 210 995 478

http://www.cm-cascais.pt/equipamento/quinta-do-pisao-parque-de-natureza

30min 38.7588, -9.4191

5. Cabo da Roca

The most western tip of Europe and famously described by Luís de Camões as “where the land ends and the sea begins.”. On the one side you have misty celtic hills with greens and yellows, on the other brilliant blue sea. The thundering waves crash the cliffs far below. Plenty of smooth dips in the rocks to cradle you as you contemplate the sea. A 5km walking route leads from here to Praia da Adraga (1).

Getting there

Take the N247 west from Sintra for 17km and follow signs for ‘Cabo da Roca’ from  from Ulgueira.

3mins 38.7803, -9.4989

6. Praia Grande do Rodízio

Set in the side of these cliffs are the footsteps of dinosaurs, so large that it will take you a while to see them. It's as though they just ran by yesterday but, in fact, it was 125 million years ago. Their footprints have fossilised, convulsed and been thrust high up the sides of the limestone cliff. The wind cuts sharply down the stairs as you pass the now vertical tracks.

Getting there

From Sintra take the N247 west for 12km until Rodízio and follow signs to Praia Grande, continue until the very end of the road and park. Take the narrow steps down between the cliffs.

10min 38.8096,-9.4797

7. Seteais Walking Trail

This 3.5km circular walking trail follows a stretch of the most beautiful road in Sintra, and then continues through a forest trail with vistas over the slope of the hill overlooking the historical centre. It passes Palácio da Pena and Castelo dos Mouros, an ancient castle with towering battlements and secret woodland paths.

Getting there

Start the walk in Largo Rainha D. Amélia opposite the National Palace in the historical centre of Sintra, walk up until the Turismo and turn left up the stairs just before and follow signs.

38.7974, -9.3904

8. Cantinho de Amizade

This is an old men drinking cups of wine together kind of café or 'tasca' in the tiny village Almoçageme. It's a good place for lunch just inland from the coast, have whatever dish they are cooking. The Bachalau Espiritual is heavenly but every day is different. There is usually a large cake, baked fresh, and ready for sharing.

Getting there

From Sintra take the N247 west for 11km into Almoçageme. Rua Praia da Adraga, 2, Colares, Sintra +351 912706493 7am-8pm

38.7964, -9.4704

9. Quinta da Folgorosa

A farm with 300 years history of wine production. The Duke of Wellington famously enjoyed their wines as the vineyard was close to Torres Vedras, the defensive hills used against Napoleon's invading troops. Now you can visit the vineyard, take a tour of their old building and technology or enjoy a wine-tasting. At tastings their wine is paired with food to fully appreciate its flavour.

Getting there

From Sintra take the N9 north for 20km onto the A21 and after 10km turn off onto the N374 for Dois Portos. Quinta da Folgorosa, 2565-171 Dois Portos www.quintadafolgorosa.pt geral@quintadafolgorosa.pt +351 96 486 11 75 +351 919902914

39.0413, -9.1540

10. Almáa Sintra Hostel

A retreat centre and eco-hostel in the heart of the Sintra hills. The property is twelfth century with 4 hectares of garden, private and shared rooms are available. Spring water supplies the house and the furniture and decor is made with recycled material by local artists.

Getting there

Caminho dos Frades, Quinta dos Lobos 2710-560 Sintra +351 219240008 www.almaasintrahostel.com/

38.7980, -9.3992

Wild Guide Portugal: Hidden Places, Great Adventures and the Good Life by Edwina Pitcher publishes 13th March 2017 (£16.99, Wild Things Publishing). It contains over 700 secret and out of the way places, all across Portugal.

http://www.wildthingspublishing.com/product/wild-guide-portugal-book/

[wildportugal-blog]

Wild Sintra

If you want to escape the crowds of Lisbon, you don't have to travel far. You can reach wild places within the hour, seemingly forgotten by all but you and the seagulls wheeling overhead. The Sintra hills are considered a place of enchantment, with caves, Moorish castles, princely palaces and wild ancient woodland. These misty hills, surrounded by myths and legends, are perhaps of of the best places to be re-enchanted by the natural world.

For more enchanting places to visit, with maps, beautiful images, co-ordinates and directions order an early copy of Wild Guide Portugal here - http://www.wildthingspublishing.com/product/wild-guide-portugal-book/

[wildportugal-blog]

Wild Escapes in Portugal

Portugal’s mountains and hills are riddled with little lost villages, their stone walls and cobbled streets evoking a timeless heritage, in harmony with nature. Take a rustic retreat in the hilltop villages of Comareira or Pena, and listen out for the clatter of returning hooves as evening draws in.  Or breathe in the wild landscape around Porto and open your shutters to dawn over the Montemuro hills. For a fairy-tale refuge, stay at the 16th century fort on the wild island of Berlengas. Wherever you chose, Portugal has some of the most beautiful havens for intimate stays. Here are some of our favourites:

QUINTA DA VILA, PORTO

Throw open your bedroom windows to views of the Montemuro and Arouca Geopark mountains. Just an hour’s drive from Porto, ancient vines grow by the traditional wine press house, and luxurious old stone bedrooms have deep window seats. Relax on the terrace looking out to the views or take a cool dip in the pool. The house has a rich rural history kept alive by the owner, Sr. Alfredo, and his love for the place.

Lugar da Vila 4540-053, Alvarenga +351 918 528 478, Quintadavila.pt 

MORGADO LUSITANO, LISBON A marvellous escape for those seeking an equestrian holiday with views over the Tejo, pine woodland, orchards and the 18th century manor, and only 15 mins from Lisbon airport. The estate was built by the Count of Ribeira Grande after the Great Earthquake of 1755. Now they train the finest Lusitano horses in dressage. Book an intensive week’s riding lessons or simply stay in the estate.

Quinta Da Portela, Cabeço Da Rosa, Alverca do Ribatejo +351219936520, Morgadolusitano.pt

 MUXIMA, COSTA VICENTINA A luxurious African-inspired interior for this guesthouse, with a secret attic-library. Magical by candlelight. Daybeds on the veranda, a treehouse further down, bio-pool and woodland paths for children to run wild. Try the medronho fruit jam for breakfast. See Casas Brancas for more luxury guesthouses.

Montes Ferreiros 265A, Aljezur 8670-000 +351 916 012 830, Muxima-montesferreiros.com

CASA DE CEREJINHA, COIMBRA A gorgeous two-bedroomed centuries-old mountain house in Pena village built with schist stone and with an old recessed fireplace typical of Lousã. Open your windows to incredible mountain views and step out of the front door to narrow cobbled streets winding down to the babbling river.

Pena-Góis +351 914 009 194, Casadacerejinha.wordpress.com

FORTE DE SÃO JOÃO BAPTISTA, PENICHE You can stay in this 17th century fortress on the tiny island of Berlengas just off the Peniche coast. Monks used to provide shelter here for seafaring people. The rooms have views across the sea and its inherent solitude still holds an ascetic appeal. There is, however, a communal kitchen and bar in the courtyard. Reservations through the Associação Amigos das Berlengas +351 912 631 426, Berlengareservasforte@gmail.com

For many more glorious retreats see Wild Guide Portugal - the ultimate guidebook to Portugal’s hidden places, great adventures and the good life. Out 3rd April 2017 and available to pre-order here.

[wildportugal-blog]

Wild Camping Deluxe Portugal

Sleeping out under the stars is a magical experience and several campsites in Portugal have made the experience all the more romantic. Sleep on silks and embroidered cushions in luxurious tipis on the riverbank or a secret treehouse hidden high in pine trees. Stay in a Mongolian yurt surrounded by snow-capped hills. Or put your head down in a log cabin with deer, pigs and goats in the neighbouring fields, and wake up with a morning wild swim.

Wild does not have to mean roughing it – enjoy the sensual side of nature on exquisite daybeds in magical gardens or stay in elegant farmhouses with sparkling fountains, and breakfast on local breads, honeys, jams, fruits and cakes. We discovered many wildly luxurious campsites across Portugal and here are a few of our favourites :

Lima Escape

Escape along the wilder reaches of the Lima river with natural comfort. Lima Escape is set within pine woodland on the banks of the Lima as it meets the Germil and Froufe rivers. Watch the sunrise over the Serra Amarela from your treehouse with a wood-burning stove inside. 'Glamping' is also an option in a tipi with candles, cushions and blankets.

Lima Escape, Lugar de Igreja, 4980-312 Entre Ambos-os-Rios +351 258 588 361, info@lima-escape.pt

Nomad Planet

Four traditionally painted Mongolian yurts in a field with panoramic views of the Gerês mountains. The central tipi has a kitchen and bathroom and each yurt is traditionally hand painted with individual colours. It's stunning when it snows here and the yurts stay toasty warm with their insulation. Cycling and hiking trails nearby and 'Happiness Workshops' on offer. Exquisite attention to detail.

Rua do Forno 20, 5470-151 Fiães do Rio + 351 936 799 886, Nomadplanet-portugal.com

Camping & Parque Biológico de Vinhais

Set within the Montesinho Natural Park, the Parque Biológico de Vinhais makes for a very wild stay. Bunk down in one of their log cabins or take a dip with the ducks in their natural swimming pool. A centre for wildlife protection, you can learn about native trees, fungi, soil and flowers of Montesinho while also getting closer to the deer, fowl, wild boar and ponies native to the surrounding area.

Alto da Cidadelha, 5320 Vinhais +351 273 771 040, Parquebiologicodevinhais.com

Azenhas da Seda Aquaturismo

This is wild luxury, all the comforts of a rural retreat while sleeping out under the stars. Secluded tipis and tents by the River Raia as it tumbles by the old watermill. This river never runs dry, even in the arid Alentejo summers. The campsite excels in canyoning, canoeing, hike and swim trips, and picnics with local produce.

Signed off N251 between Mora and Pavia. +351 266 448 036, Azenhasdaseda.com

Alqueva Rural Camping, Pedrogão

As the Guadiana river continues its course south after the Alqueva dam, there is this farm with a camping and caravan park. Baby goats gambol around rare Miranda do Douro donkeys. Horses and llamas, black pigs, rabbits, ducks and peacocks all bring a happy energy to this small but vital farm. You can visit just to see the animals or stay the night, waking up to a cockerel calling dawn across the hills. Don't forget to visit Solomon's Throne, a natural seat in some of the giant rocks that litter the farmland.

SE of Pedrogão, off the N258. 7960 Pedrogão do Alentejo +351 213 552 070, Dosdin.pt

For many more glorious wild camping sites -with GPS coordinates, maps and directions- order our guidebook Wild Guide Portugal here.

[wildportugal-blog]

Wild Food Portugal

Here’s a sneaky peek at what you’ll find inside The Wild Guide Portugal....

Slow-food is a prerequisite of dining in Portugal, whether it's porco preto – the black pigs reared for three years free-range in Alentejo- or oak-aged wines from Douro vineyards, the entire process from farm to table is a labour of love.

Portugal's passion for fish is unfathomable.  Along the coast you can dine on stuffed squid, grilled octopus, sea bream, sea bass, cuttlefish, prawns, limpets, barnacles, sardines and nothing beats the simple joy of a crab eaten by the sea with a glass of wine. Inland, the rivers offer fresh-water fish, try grilled eels in Ribatejo or fresh trout from the River Côa.

The cuisine is more varied than simply fish- the diverse dishes reflect a varied geography. We visited mountain cabins where smoked sausages- farinheira, moucela or chouriço - hang above open fireplaces and discovered small-scale farms keeping bees, their honey tasting of rosemary, heather or sweet chestnut, depending on the region. In the Azores we discovered cozido nas caldeiras, a rich stew cooked in a pot buried in one of the island's volcanic vents. I have written about many places to eat in the Wild Guide Portugal guidebook but here are a few of our favourite:

Miradouro do Castelo, Castro Laboreiro

A homely restaurant with a terrace looking out over Laboreiro castle. Sip dry Alvarinho white wine and watch the last rays of the sunset light up the castle turrets. Inside there's pão castreiro frito com chourico, local bread, with a hard dark crust, fried with smoked meats. A good selection of local wines. All food here is typical 'mama food', a great place to try traditional Portuguese dishes.

Vila, 4960-061 Castro Laboreiro +351 251 465 469

Snack Bar Sol é Vida, Consolação

‘Sun and Life’ offered on these Rocks of Consolation which jut out into the wild Atlantic sea. Great fish, very fresh crab. Eat out on the veranda with the salt wind in your hair. Watch fishermen on the rocks below while you console yourself with dressed crab and a sparkling dry white.

Largo Nossa Sra. da Consolação 9 +351 963 708 840

Restaurante Adega do Lagar, Covas, Viana do Castelo

Come in on a Sunday and they will have only one dish. Go with it. This family-run restaurant has an ancient wood oven, wine press and a generous landlord. Locally sourced meat, wine, potatoes, vegetables and bread. Try the bagaço com mel, a strong spirit mixed with honey, but more than one, and you will leave aterrada.

Ponte Covas, Covas (Coura bridge) +351 251 948 064

Restaurante Aguas Quentes

A good place to try the cozido nas caldeiras, a stew slow-cooked over six hours in pots buried under the earth of the Furnas fumaroles, volcano vents, on São Miguel island, Açores. Each mouthful is heaven, with a slightly sulphuric edge. At the back of the restaurant is a small shrine with electric candles and saints dedicated to the Madonna- and the cozido chef.

Rua Água Quente 15, 9675-040 Furnas +351 296 584 482

Restaurante Os Templários, Monsaraz

Dine on the terrace of Os Templários and look out from the walls of the ancient Templar castle at Monsaraz. Hidden behind the town's oldest gate, the restaurant commands views out across the Alqueva dam, Beja and Spain. Naturally, the wine list is extensive at this restaurant in the heart of Alentejo's wine region. Swirl a glass from Carmim, a world-renowned Monsaraz winery, and try the gooey baked goat's cheese with olive oil, oregano and Alentejano bread to dip. Sopa de cação is a broth made with dogfish, worth a try, but the King of the Dishes here is bochechas de porco assada, roast pig cheeks with potatoes and pumpkin. With the panoramic views, ancient history and joy taken in food and wines, this is a feast for eyes as well as your appetite.

Rua Direita 22, 7200-175 Monsaraz +351 266 557 166

For many more beautiful places to eat, drink and feast (with maps and GPS co-ordinates) pre-order a copy of Wild Guide Portugal here out  3rd April 2017.

[wildportugal-blog]

Caves of Wild Portugal

Imagine a landscape dominated by mountains with castles crowning sunlit caps where the subterranean world is as deep and cavernous as its mountains are steep and towering.  I speak a lot about caves in the Wild Guide to Portugal and here are some of the most enchanting caverns you can discover from Portugal's dark-bellied, glinting other-world:

1. Grutas de Alvados

A cave network discovered by shepherds. Sparkling stalactites over 24,000 years old throng the walls of this subterranean cathedral. This lesser-known cave network takes small tour groups, even individual tours, and the natural lighting allows your imagination to run wild.

2. Varanda de Pilatos, Peniche

A small thinking-place in a sea-carved stone chamber down a ladder in the cliff-side. Let your thoughts soar out across ocean views while sheltered from wild Atlantic winds. Large enough for one or two, depending on the size and scale of your thoughts.

3. Gruta da Furninha

Explore these natural sea-caves worming out from the side of the Peniche cliffs. The sea and sky are framed by wind-pummelled stone mouths. Still used as fishermen’s caves, 19th century excavations revealed an exhaustive amount of ancient remains here: Neanderthal man had inhabited the caves for 20,000 years.

4. Gruta de Salemas

This forgotten cave is set high up on the hillside, a dark portal above the wooded slope reaching to some ancient dark recess. Inside its sides are so black you'll emerge with tell-tale black palms from feeling your way in the pitch black. Archaeological excavations revealed a village on this hill occupied from Neolithic times until the Middle Ages. Little is left today. Perch on a stone and survey the hills of Loures reaching away. Bring a torch.

5. Cova da Velha

Discover you own cave, or the Old Woman's Cave as it's known, hidden in the limestone hills of Fórnea which form a dramatic natural amphitheatre. Dry in summer, in winter the cave becomes a mouth springing with bubbling water. There is a PR walking route which passes by here.

For more magical caves with directions and GPS coordinates, The Wild Guide to Portugal is out 3rd April and retails for £16.99 in UK bookshops. More info here: http://www.wildthingspublishing.com/product/wild-guide-portugal-book/

[naturalswimmingspirit]

eddipitcher

Secret waterfalls of #Açores islands, perfect for a #skinnydip #wildswimming #wildportugal #earth #sea #adventure