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Cappadocia & Goreme National Park, Turkey

Located in the heart of Anatolia (modern day central Turkey), this national park and rock formation area is on the a UNESCO World Heritage List citing “In a spectacular landscape, entirely sculpted by erosion, the Göreme valley and its surroundings contain rock-hewn sanctuaries that provide unique evidence of Byzantine art in the post-Iconoclastic period. Dwellings, troglodyte villages and underground towns – the remains of a traditional human habitat dating back to the 4th century – can also be seen there.”

Indeed, this area has much to be amazed by. Due to the unique geological conditions, tufa stone (compressed volcanic ash - highly durable yet easily workable with the simplest of tools) has made evidence of human habitation and innovation possible for millennia. Read my other two post on the underground city of Derinkuyu and the stone cared churches to hear about these further.

Outside of these marvels of human ingenuity and artisanship, the scenery of Cappadocia will take your breath away. Looking back at pictures now, they simply fail to convey the monumental size and sheer expansiveness of the natural rock formations. Everywhere you look there is something new and different to draw your attention. I particularly liked hiking the numerous (an only sporadically marked) trails. The beauty and thrill of exploration make up for any hesitation that one may feel, and luckily due to a few prominent landmarks it is hard to get too lost.

If hiking is not your thing then try taking a hot air balloon to see the entire region from a birds-eye view. As for me I skipped that adventure this time but still enjoyed watching the balloons sail over in the foggy morning sky as I relaxed in my very own cave room. Hotels throughout the town have caught on to the appeal of underground tourism and its hard to find accommodates above ground in Goreme. 

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Stone Carved Churches, Cappadocia, Turkey

In the central geographic region of modern Turkey, lie some of the most amazing Christian churches and monasteries I have ever come across. High up in the stone cliffs and precipices, beautiful religious sanctuaries can be found in large numbers. Thanks to the region’s unique geological conditions, these structures are not so much built as carved directly into the rock! 

Often with precarious staircases leading to entrances 10 m or more off the ground, these man-made edifices are well worth the effort to scale the cliff sides. Inside can be found marvelous vaulted ceiling, columns, and even domes many of which were at one time adorned with amazingly colorful and intricate paintings. And unlike many other religious sanctuaries, much of the original artwork has been preserved due to the lack human interaction and favorable climate conditions. 

While such churches can be found located throughout all of central Turkey, some of the easiest to access (both via travel and the not to be overlooked well constructed staircase) and best preserved churches can be found in Goreme Open Air Museum. The artwork in the ‘Dark Church’ is specifically noteworthy as its lack of external light has preserved the true intensity of the original colors. 

But for those that are up for a more adventurous search, by simply walking the valleys and trails throughout the Cappadocia region one can come across spectacular lesser known sites where you can get to truly take the time and enjoy the splendor while taking in the awe of mans’ artistic capabilities. 

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Underground City, Derinkuyu, Turkey

Scattered throughout central Turkey are a collection of underground cities. No one knows exactly how many such cities there are and new subterranean complexes are being found regularly as this regions of Turkey is being developed for residential purposes. Derinkuyu is the largest such complex open to the public with only a fraction of its entire area open to tourism.

Spanning a depth of 200 ft (60m) the complex is a labyrinth of tunnels, staircases, and various sized living and storage chambers. It is thought that this complex could house as many as 20,000 people in times of crisis (it is believed they were not in constant use). Archeologist date the earliest of these complexes to have been constructed in 8th to 7th century BC, but they have most recently come to fame as the safe haven of Christian seeking to find safe-haven from religious persecution from Roman times all the way into the 20th century.

The entire complex was made possible due to the unique geology of the region. Soft but durable tufa rock (compressed volcanic ash deposits) made the carving of such cities achievable even with primitive tools. Besides for living spaces, inside were wine and olive presses, cellars, storerooms, stables, toilets, and even a chapel. Large stone boulders could be rolled in front of doorways to block the way of intruders, providing its inhabitants with safe refuge and ample living space. 

These unique building structures are definitely a sight to behold and well worth a trip into central Turkey to see if you get a chance.

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Prague (Praha), Czech Republic

Stepping into Prague feels like going back in time. The streets and houses in the central district of old town are much the same as they were 500 years ago. Small winding cobblestone streets, colorful, artistically decorated homes line the streets visited by millions of tourist each year. Street vendors selling fresh confectionary pastries tempt the taste buds as large (cheap) beers entices you into one of the ever so convenient bars on every street. 

Gothic architecture is on display in its finest at the Church of Our Lady before Tyn (within Old Town Square) and St Vitus Caathedral (inside the castle situated atop the Western hillside overlooking the Vltava River). Flying buttresses and gargoyles both beckon the eye and give it a sort of fright at the same time. Such intricacies and beauty only add to the expansive cavernous interiors that overwhelm the senses and inspire the soul.

Exploring the hillsides around the center, you can find excellent walking paths with great views of the city. Not far from the castle on one of these paths (and just past a monastery brewery) you will follow the medieval walls leading through a forest and the modern Petrin Tower - that looks awfully similar to the Eiffel Tower. Here you can get probably the best birds eye view of the city.

If not up for a hike, then check out the clock tower lookout point in the Old Town Square. The 360 degree views from here are beautiful as the colors of the city seem to pop in miraculous ways. The astrological clock itself it hailed to be one of the oldest in Europe dating back to 1410. Don’t be suckered into expecting much from its hourly ‘show’, much like a cuckoo clock life-size figurines move around to the ringing of the bells. Definitely worth seeing if you are there, but don’t expect this to change your life. 

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Modern Street Art in Prague, Czech Republic

Walk the streets of the city for any decent amount of time and you are sure to come across some very interesting pieces of art. Between Kafka-esk references and social commentary of communist or post communist society the city seems to relish in expressing itself through art. 

Above is a grouping of faceless naked babies (the lack of faces is truly creepy - supposedly a reference to repression of totalitarian rule), the pissing men (outside Kafka Museum - actual moving parts so the men sort of dance while doing their business), and finally the giant head of Kafka (it spins in different patterns creating a sense of metamorphism). 

These are just a few of dozens that can be found throughout Prague.

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Best (Random) Christmas Find Ever

While wondering the streets of Prague one afternoon, we came across a small courtyard in front of a church. Having a strong curiosity to see the inside of all religious buildings - I mean truly, the artwork and atmosphere inside always has the possibility of being spectacular - we tried the door. It was locked. But as we were leaving we noticed a lot of people disappearing down a mysterious spiral staircases leading under an adjacent building. Being curious as always, I stuck my head down the hole to find that there was music playing and people laughing. 

It turns out that the church was hosting some sort of Christmas Exhibition (there were more details available, but I can’t read Czech and no one inside seemed to speak English - ‘Christmas Exhibition’ were only English words I found anywhere).

Well, from what I gathered it was a regional Christmas/Nativity scene showcase. WOW!! I mean there were hundreds of nativity scenes made out of every material imaginable. Hand-carved scenes made from wood, stone, soap, tree stumps, hand painted masterpieces drawn on all sorts of materials, straw and lace intricately weaved into beautiful figurines, cakes, cookies, and even what appeared to be pretzel renditions of the religious scene - so many that every time you thought that the last one you saw was the most amazing sight ever another table would offer a dozen more to be fascinated by.

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Prague Christmas Markets - Old Town Square

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Windmill in Haarlem, Netherlands

On an impromptu daytrip to Haarlem, I came across this windmill museum, De Adriaan Museum.

Beautiful place and very kind staff gave me a private tour and taught me more than I ever expected to know about windmills. For example, did you know:

1) Windmills first originated in Afghanistan (I never would have guessed this)

2) The position of the arms when stationary are signals to townfolk (happy news such as a birth, sad new such as a death, and whether the mill is open, closed, or being repaired)

3) No nails are used in their construction meaning they can be completely taken apart moved and reassembled 

4) Without windmills a large portion of the Netherlands would still be underwater (one of their many capabilities is to pump water out of low laying areas - in this case utilized by the Dutch using a system of dams, canals, and windmills!)

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Two Amazing and Truly Unique Breweries in Netherland

Jopen Brewery

Just a short distance from Amsterdam in the town of Haarlem is one of the most interesting and best breweries in terms of quality I have been to in all my travels. The brewery is called Jopen (https://www.jopenbier.nl/en/). It’s a modern brewpub housed in an old church which still has its stained glass windows and beautiful ceilings. The environment would be enough just for a visit but the beer is amazing!! The day I went they had 16 beers on tap and I would say about half of those had won some kind of international medals according to their menu and the trophies sitting behind bar. While all the beers I tried were excellent, I must recommend the koyt. Bartender says they handpick the grains for this beer at night, only on full moons, and completely naked. I don’t know about all that, but it is a fabulous beer. 

IJ Brewery (Brouwerij ‘t IJ)

Sitting a not far from the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam’s center is the IJ Brewery (http://www.brouwerijhetij.nl/). Again, the venue is worth a visit on its own right, as this brewery is situated inside a windmill! So for anyone arriving in Amsterdam looking to check two things off their to see list at once this is a great place, a windmill in the city with tasty beer. The bad news is that the footprint of a windmill is not too big making table space scarce, but that's okay as the bench style tables encourage getting to know locals and tourist alike as everyone is in good spirts sipping on these beers. Again all the beers I tried here were very good, but my favorite was probably their seasonal Ijbok (bock beer) which went very well with their raw ox sausage and mustard.  

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Amsterdam Light Festival

During winter months Amsterdam is aglow with lights and festive cheer.

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Doing the Touristy Thing in Amsterdam

Traditionally known for its windmills, bicycles, and wooden shoes, the city has become a mecca party goers and young people due to its tolerance of marijuana. Interestingly enough, according to a guide in the city, marijuana is NOT legal. It is simply not an offence that is prosecuted and one that is so well organized by businesses and regulated by the government (not to mention being extremely profitable) that all parties feel there is no need to persecute individuals. 

Useful Tip: Coffee Shops are code names for establishments where marijuana usage is sanctioned, while if you actually want a coffee you should steer towards a Café. 

For those like myself that have never been too much into smoking there are many other options to do in the city. Simply walking through the streets offer amazing views of the city’s canal system and picturesque houses. If you look closely you may even notice the houses are leaning. The land the city was founded on was originally a swamp/marsh. Due to Dutch ingenuity using dykes, windmills, and canals they have successfully reclaimed much of their land from the sea. Unfortunately this type of soil is not great for foundations and causes the houses to lean. “Good” lean-age I was told happens when the house leans towards the canal making the hoisting of furniture to upper stories more manageable. (Stairways are generally tiny so when I heard this it made a lot of sense).

Bicycles are a major part of Dutch society. Its said there are almost a time and a half more bicycles than people in the city, and that every year they dredge the canals and find thousands of bikes. Leave it to the Dutch to be thrifty about this as they take these waterlogged bikes, refurbish them and sell them secondhand. In fact I was told most locals have two bikes, one to leave outside (second hand) and take into city/work and one that is a much nicer to use primarily at leisure.

If you are looking for a great view of the city, take the free ferry across the river to A’DAM Lookout where on a clear day you can see the skyline of the entire city. If you find that the weather is not cooperating for you (like it wasn't for me) there is a bar at the top where you can still enjoy a drink or maybe even swing on a giant two person swing that propels you over the edge of the building. 

And finally, what is a trip to Amsterdam without strolling through the (in)famous Red Light District. Situated in the oldest part of town, interestingly often directly adjacent to large churches, can be found the bright red glow of neon lights signaling the work place of prostitutes. Legend has it that the origins of this district come from the city sanctioning church officials to sell indulgences (religious get out of jail free cards) to sailors as they called upon the thriving trading port. Others claim these first women first came here as these same officials’ mistresses. Today, the workers occupy small rooms that are inconspicuous from the street (other than red light - but I mean, really, if you are not looking you could walk through this section of town during daylight and not even know you were there). Again, I must say, the Dutch are excellent at organization and keep everything clean, organized and relatively discreet. That being said, before you jump to the conclusion that this is a seedy of despicable place, it is not at all uncommon to see children being pushed down the street in strollers or riding their bikes in this district. Definitely a diverse area that is worth checking out if you can keep an open mind about it. 

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Amsterdam

What a beautiful city! Whether you prefer to embraces the stereotypes and clichés of the city or find a more off beat experience, this city has more then enough to exceed anyone’s expectations.

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Tblisi Bath Houses

One of the top tourist attractions of Tblisi is the baths. So of course I had to try it. There are some very informative websites explaining what to expect from these experiences so I won’t give a full run down of the setup, but I will tell you some about my experience.

There are many different bath houses to choose from and both public and private room options depending of one’s privacy and budgetary preferences. Due to my typical spontaneous travel habits, I walked into one I had read good reviews of on the internet and simple said I’m here for a bath. The lady behind the counter in broken English then listed off prices and times, the cheapest rooms already being booked at mid-day on a Saturday, to which I said I would take whatever was available now - this of course was the most expensive, a giant private room with bath big enough for a dozen and an attached sauna - it was worth every penny!

I had read beforehand that clothing was optional for tourist, but that locals bathed fully nude (which when you think of it who bathes at home in swimsuit). Not wanting to look too much the novice I decided to do as the locals did and drop trousers and just enjoy it. Let me tell you, it was well worth it. After getting used to the rotten egg smell (sulfur water remember), soaking in the hot water has a transadelic effect on a person. All your thoughts just vanish as a profound state relaxation comes over you.

I savored these revitalizing moments until a big hairy Georgian man came barging into the room! To be fair he was just there to provide the ‘scrub down’ portion of the bath (this is completely optional, but as I said I wanted the whole experience). So there I was completely naked as this man in his speedo style underwear proceeds to tell me to lay flat on this marble bed while he commences to throw buckets of water on me before scrubbing me down with a rough oven mit. After a 10 minute delousing process in this manner consisting of repeated stages of having my skin fiercely attacked and then bombarded with buckets of water the ritual was complete and I was deemed bathed! 

Completely a worthwhile experience. Definitely recommend if you get the chance. I would recommend booking ahead of time if you want to save a little money (not that it was too unreasonable - my lush private room for an hour ended up costing 100 lari ($25)). The private rooms are worth while and the scrub is optional as it wasn’t like a massage or anything, simply like having someone else bathe you as you would yourself at home. Can’t say what the public baths are like, definitely worth looking into if you have time to kill and are not shy about public nudity as I heard they are under 10 lari and allow you to stay as long as you like. 

FYI: Dating back to the founding of the city over a millennia ago, the hot sulfur springs are thought to be one of the principle reasons for the cities location. As a prominent stop along the Silk Road, all traders were said to be required to bathe before entering the city. 

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Wine, Wine, Wine, and More Wine 

Georgia is very proud of it’s viticulture heritage. It takes but to walk into the first tantalizing shop one sees stacked high with bottles from floor to ceiling to hear the shopkeeper proudly brag that wine has it’s origins in this region (and rightfully so as archeologist have dated the oldest evidence of grape fermentation to this area). 

Specializing in semi-sweet red wines, the region has a large variety of grapes responsible for the creation of many palate pleasing offerings. With prices ranging from 10 lari (roughly $4) up to several hundred lari per bottle, anyone can find something that suits their tastes and budget. Not sure about what wines are right for you, no worries as the generous hospitality of Georgian shopkeepers will let you sample (free) until you find something you like (just try not to get too tipsy as Georgians have a high alcohol tolerance and enjoy sharing in drinks with guests).

Not a fan of wine at all? Well, try Chacha which is a strong liquor made from the remnants of grape skins discarded in wine making process. 

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An Artistic City - Tblisi, Georgia

Walking the streets of Tblisi will undoubtedly bring a smile to any art lover and a laugh to even those that care little for artistic form. It takes only to open one’s eyes to see that Tblisi loves it’s art and has a good sense of humor about itself.

From the 50 meter high “Mother of Georgia“ statue, to the plethora of half meter statuettes that line the main streets of town, to the life size - and larger than life - depictions of national and local famous Georgians, the city never stops surprising. 

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Eastern Orthodox Churches, Tblisi and Mtskheta, Georgia

Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity) Cathedral (Top Grouping) - Impossible to miss on the Tblisi skyline, especially at night as it is magnificently lighted on the eastern hillside just out of the old city, this recently constructed cathedral (finished 2003) is well worth a visit if nothing else then for the breathtaking views of the river and town below.

Jvari Monastery (Middle Grouping) - Drive North of the city and after about a half an hour you will see a small spec of a building perched like a pinnacle upon a mountaintop. This is no insignificant spec. Indeed it is a 6th century church that is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a shame I could not get any better pictures of the view the site controls of the valley, but somehow the camera just could not take in the grandiose views that the eye captured and I cannot force myself to post anything that does not do it justice. Definitely a must see to grasp the true inspiration of the site.

Svetiskhoveli Cathedral (Last Grouping) - In the former capital of the Georgian Kingdom of Kartli-Iberia, Mtskheta, can be found this last church. Surrounded by medieval walls, this structure feels more like a castle than cathedral. Yet, the day we visited a service was underway and we saw in person the beauty of the design as brilliant natural light streaked through the windows in marvelous patterns giving the interior a true sense of wonder as the congregation sang melodies. 

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Architecture of Tblisi, Georgia.

Tblisi is a city that is filled with such wonderful contradictions. In the midst of century old churches, fortresses, and baths, surrounded by soviet era apartment complexes and 19th century western-stylized public buildings, extravagant examples of modern architecture stand out impossible to ignore. While at first comprehension the sheer contrast in styles can seem overwhelming, somehow the seeming incompatible combination just works in a way that is truly Georgian.