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How to Walk the Camino Correctly and be a True Pilgrim

How to Walk the Camino Correctly and be a True Pilgrim #CaminodeSantiago #pilgrimage

Here is a step-by-step guide in hiking the Camino de Santiago correctly:

Figure out what works best for you

Do that

That is it.  The pilgrimage has changed so much from what it used to be. So, unless you are leaving from your front door, wearing leather sandals, carrying a small bag on a stick, and drinking out of a sheep’s bladder, and basically begging for food and shelter, you are not doing it…

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How NOT to be "That Pilgrim" - General Manners on the Camino

How NOT to be "That Pilgrim" - General Manners on the Camino #caminodesantiago #caminomanners #camino #pilgrim #hiker #leavenotrace

Each person who walks the Camino is doing it their own way and for their own reason.  Some will take a taxi or bus when they get tired or hurt, some will walk every single inch.  Some will carry all their belongings on their back, some will carry a day pack and send the rest ahead.  Each has their own reasons and each are just as valid.

However – there are some common practices and manners that…

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Ireland

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The sweeping mountain vistas bring with them the necessary climb to the top of said mountain and subsequent steep descent.  But wow is it worth the views from O Cebreiro. The town of O Cebreiro is worth a visit not just for the views with colorful local traditions.  The church there is rebuilt as a reconstruction of a church that was destroyed in the 19th century, although there are several pieces of the church that are original.  It is said that the Holy Grail is hidden in O Cebreiro and the church boasts a miracle made official by Pope Innocent VIII.  Long story short, a man traveled a great distance in poor weather to take communion at the church.  As the priest was mocking the man for traveling such a distance, the bread and wine in his hands turned to real flesh and blood while the Virgin, displayed at the alter, is said to have moved her head in order to get a better view.

Passing by the Alto de San Roque, a large statue of a pilgrim fighting the wind, the path finally starts to descend until you reach Triacastela.  The ruins of the three castles for which the town was named are no where to be found, the only reference to them remains on the towns coat of arms.

  Day Twenty Five: La Faba to Triacastela The sweeping mountain vistas bring with them the necessary climb to the top of said mountain and subsequent steep descent.  

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This is one of the days I wish I had taken the harder alternate route.  One path out of Villafranca climbs over one of the surrounding hills, challenging but beautiful.  I took the other path.  This followed the highway, literally walking on the shoulder of the road, separated only by a concrete divider.  The view and small villages are still cute and offer a distraction from the road but after meeting up with pilgrims who had taken the more challenging route, I would opt towards that one next time.

  Day Twenty Four: Villafranca to La Faba This is one of the days I wish I had taken the harder alternate route.  One path out of Villafranca climbs over one of the surrounding hills, challenging but beautiful.  

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After the hills of yesterday, today was nice and flat although the mountains in the distance filled the horizon.  The landscapes changes again, now the surrounding fields are filled with vineyards.  There are a number of small towns that the Camino cuts through, the next town that is large enough to sustain an albergue is nearly 17 km into the walk.

Villafranca is a fascinating town with a mixture of new, modern hotels and albergues and other structures retaining their medieval and renaissance feel.  The little winding streets are fun to explore and the squares are filled with great restaurants.  The albergue where I stayed had a quaint courtyard at its center, filled with tables and with the smell of delicious food coming from the communal kitchen.

  Day Twenty Three: Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo After the hills of yesterday, today was nice and flat although the mountains in the distance filled the horizon.  

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The path becomes more narrow but the vistas become impressive with views of the surrounding mountains. The vegetation becomes much more low laying and scruffy, indicative of the higher altitude.  The was out of Foncebadon continues uphill until you reach the Cruz Ferro, which is nearly the highest point of the Camino.  It is here that pilgrims leave the stone or token that they have carried with them from home, symbolizing the burden that they carry.

On the way down, an albergue and small shop is easily noticeable by it bright flags flying in the wind.  This place is run by Tomas, a modern day Templar Knight and said to be the last of the Templar Knights.  It is possible to stay here but be prepared for a rustic and true historic pilgrim experience – there is no electricity or running water and the outhouse is … lets just say I waited until I got to the next town.

After a steep decent, the town of Molinaseca was a welcome sight.  The large church stood behind the inviting river and Puente de Peregrino, the river being damed to allow for summer swimming.  There were some brave children swimming in the cold water but all I did was slip off my shoes and soak my feet.  Forcing myself to pull my feet out of the water and back into my boots, I finally set off for Ponferrada. This is a city in which I could have spent more time with its large Templar castle, large cathedral, and museum.  But after all the downhill walking, I was happy to take off my boots for the day and give my knees a break.

  Day Twenty Two: Foncebadon to Ponferrada The path becomes more narrow but the vistas become impressive with views of the surrounding mountains. The vegetation becomes much more low laying and scruffy, indicative of the higher altitude.  

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Today is a bit of a different feeling day.  From the beginning I told myself that I would take a taxi from Astorga to Foncebadon.  Back in April, a woman from the US went missing in this stretch of the Camino.  She has not been seen since, despite pilgrims and police looking for her.  While this is a rarity, easily seen by how much it has shaken the community, I decided that I was going to quiet my fears by just skipping this stage.

**2017 update:  The body of Denise Thiem was found and her attacker has been caught and sentenced.  The entire Camino community mourns her loss and this event has shed light on the safety of the Camino.  The Camino is safe but, just as anywhere in the world, you need to stay alert. **

That being said, taking a taxi allowed me more time in Astorga in the morning.  I was able to take time to explore impressive Cathedral and museum.  I had lunch in Astorga then taxied up to Foncebadon.  This is such a cute little town, comprised of two albergues, one with a grocery store and one with a bar, and a restaurant.  Surrounding the town were pastures with a large herd of cows.  I decided to eat at the medieval themed restaurant next to my albergue which was so much fun.  It was amazingly decorated with pelts and towering melted wax candlesticks.

  Day Twenty One: Astorga to Foncebadon Today is a bit of a different feeling day.  From the beginning I told myself that I would take a taxi from Astorga to Foncebadon.  

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I really enjoyed todays hike – not sure if it was because it suddenly became greener and the Meseta ended or because the towns were larger.    Either way, the brown fields turned into rolling green hills which were irrigated with ancient aqueducts which lead to gorgeous vistas.

I love when I am able to pass through towns with interesting history or lore.  Today that town was Hospital de Orbigo and the “El Paso Honrosos” bridge into it.  This bridge is famed for its legendary jousting tournament of Don Suero de Quinones.  This wealthy knight was rejected by a woman he loved and was so love sick he decided to shackle his neck with an iron collar, only to take it off once he had won back his honor by defeating 300 knights.  His story spread wide and soon knights from all over came to joust on the bridge.  He was successful in his plight and, once defeating the 300 knights, removed the collar and make a pilgrimage to Santiago.  This great legend adds to the beauty of the gothic bridge.

The entrance into Astorga is a bit deceiving, as you can see the town from the Crucero de Santo Toribio while still being 6 km away.  After navigating over a footbridge to cross the train tracks on the edge of town, the trail gets in one last laugh, making you hike up seemingly endless steep hills before getting into the city.  But, once there, the city offers great accommodations, food, and a great cathedral and museum.

  Day Twenty: Villar de Mazarife to Astorga I really enjoyed todays hike - not sure if it was because it suddenly became greener and the Meseta ended or because the towns were larger.    

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It felt really nice to leave the city and come back to the openness and emptiness of the Meseta (never thought I would say that).  While the first part of the hike out of the city was similar to the way in, very industrial and noisy, soon after it returned to the open fields and wide, dirt paths of the Ancient Romans.

Although it was another day where I was left to my thoughts, there were plenty of small towns to break up the long stretches of open road.  These are truly small towns but all pilgrims are welcomed into Villar de Mazarife with a mosaic of a pilgrim scene.  Villar is a well kept town and one that is very pilgrim friendly.  (Plus the albergue served chocolate crepes as dessert so all is well with me!)

  Day Nineteen: Leon to Villar de Mazarife It felt really nice to leave the city and come back to the openness and emptiness of the Meseta (never thought I would say that).  

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Culture shock! I just spent the last few days walking from small town to small town and then suddenly thrust into the crazy bustle of Leon is a bit shocking.  This is a day that many people will skip and just bus or taxi ahead to Leon.  Almost the entire day is walking next to or over a major highway and through industrial areas.  If you are ever going to skip a day of walking, you should choose today.

Adding to the overwhelming environment of the city was the presence of hundreds of people playing instruments and swarming the streets.  There was a sort of festival or competition between these small bands.  While this was fun to watch, it made navigating the streets and finding a place to rest a bit difficult.

    Day Seventeen: Mansilla to Leon Culture shock! I just spent the last few days walking from small town to small town and then suddenly thrust into the crazy bustle of Leon is a bit shocking.  

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If you’ll ever feel like you are in the middle of nowhere, just surrounded by farmers working their fields, today will be that day.  Make sure to bring plenty of food and water today because there is nothing for almost 18 km.  No towns and no shade.  Another day of unchanging scenery but a mentally trying day, between the sense of “where the hell am I” and the hours of time with your own thoughts.

    Day Sixteen: Calzadilla to Mansilla de las Mulas If you'll ever feel like you are in the middle of nowhere, just surrounded by farmers working their fields, today will be that day.  

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Passed the halfway point! Another day on the Meseta means another day of small towns and wide open fields.  Many of these towns are built with mud-brick houses and have what I thought (and still think) were hobbit holes, turns out they were just underground wine cellars.  What I find very interesting is that these are ancient Roman roads and that I was walking the same path as Romans – the history major in me was going crazy!

I feel like today is a short post but with not much happening on the walk, there is not much to update.

  Day Fifteen: Terradillos to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos Passed the halfway point! Another day on the Meseta means another day of small towns and wide open fields.  

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I have started to have the feeling that the longer the town name, the less there actually is to the town.  The past two days, and today is not different, the town names have been long but the road to each town goes through open, empty fields and the towns have been few and far between.  Nothing against these towns, they are quaint, small towns that offer exactly what a pilgrim needs.  But it is true, the scenery in the meseta does not change much day to day.

The path today had the fewest places to stop with only a small, pop up trailer offering food in the middle of day.  But empty paths and great company lead to great conversation and deep thoughts.  Many people will say that this is the section to skip but I disagree.  Because the path was easy to follow and the scenery unchanging, my mind was able to wander and I was able to really start thinking about the reasons that brought me to the Camino in the first place.  Boring doesn’t mean bad!

  Day Fourteen: Carrion to Terradillos de los Templarios I have started to have the feeling that the longer the town name, the less there actually is to the town.  

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Today I felt much better, whether because it was just a short term cold or because of the magic of Eduardo who can say, but either way it was my first major interaction to the meseta.  Let’s just say that it would be hard to get lost.

There were two different options today, one that followed the road and was well marked and one that followed the river and wasn’t as well marked.  I decided to follow the main route along the road, wearisome of the less marked trails after Burgos.  While the trail did follow the road, there were very few cars and it didn’t interrupt the scenery that much.  The roads were flat and straight and, although it was well marked, there was no way you could possibly lose the path.  Basically the day was filled with waving fields of grain.

  Day Thirteen: Boadilla to Carrion de los Condes Today I felt much better, whether because it was just a short term cold or because of the magic of Eduardo who can say, but either way it was my first major interaction to the meseta.  

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Today was a rough day mentally.  I got very little sleep last night due to being under the weather – a slight cough, stuffed sinus, and a headache.  I don’t know if something in the area affected my allergies or if I came down with a slight cold but I was miserable.  I trusted my gut and knew that it would not be good for me to try to walk today so I made the decision to taxi to the next town.  While I am sad that I missed the walk today, I know that it was the best decision for me.

This did allow me to take a bit longer to get out of bed in the morning and allowed me longer at the next albergue.  I cannot recommend this place more! En el Camino run by Eduardo and his family is the best place I have stayed so far.  Eduardo, who is multi-lingual, and his mother sat and talked with me in the morning, as I was the only one there after the taxi ride.  He made sure I felt fine and was well fed before letting me into the bunk room as soon as they were cleaned.  The meal that night was family style and amazing! The next morning he asked to make sure I was feeling better and wished me luck on the Camino.  Probably the best experience on the Camino and cannot speak more highly of Eduardo and his family.

  Day Twelve: Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino Today was a rough day mentally.  I got very little sleep last night due to being under the weather - a slight cough, stuffed sinus, and a headache.  

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Welcome to the Meseta! It felt good to start walking again after the day off – although I walked nearly as many miles around the city as I did on any previous day of the Camino.  The trail out of the city brings you along another park and through the gates at the end of a tree lined path (which is a recognizable place if you watched the movie The Way.)

Once outside of the city, you trade lush grass and trees for field after field of wheat.  While no part of the Camino is completely flat, this section is the flattest and often gives views of never ending land as the trail disappears into the horizon.  The towns were much more scarce and far between than previously although one small town today offered one of the best sandwiches I’ve had so far.  It was only a deli-style store with no indoor seating so numerous pilgrims were just sitting on the side of the road eating the great food.

When I started to get close to where Hontanas was supposed to be, according to the number of Km I had walked so far, I started to get worried because I could see no town on the horizon.  Finally, I saw a small, broken stone sign that pointed to a path to the right where the town of Hontanas appeared.  It sat below the rest of the land so that the roofs seemed to sit at the same height as the trail.  The town was pretty run down, with several delapidated houses, but it offered several places to stay, two places to eat, and even a small grocery store.   I have never been happier to not be on the trail when it started to hail hard and lasted for nearly 30 min.

    Day Eleven: Burgos to Hontanas Welcome to the Meseta! It felt good to start walking again after the day off - although I walked nearly as many miles around the city as I did on any previous day of the Camino.