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Domaine Georges Mugneret (Mugneret-Gibourg), Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 1995

Thirty years on. Ruby. Ozonic damp forest, chest of drawers, spice mix, damson, a streak of animalistic savoriness. The palate is fluid, offers mature dark fruited content with aromatic length until it amplifies on its structure, shows a more mineralic emphasis. Smoky, flinty late moments with black tea flavors at the end. Now – 2030+.

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Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru 2004

Yellow-gold. Has a honey, nutted aroma with a nice breadth oiliness in it, a little muskmelon and spice, as if this came from a ripe year. The aroma moves securely, and has a squeezy richness, expressive of Vaudesir. Has a rich, tending towards the gourmand start to the palate, and once more a slightly dense and sappy texture comes through, with fine acidity to finish the wine in elegance. It…

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Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2004

Yellow-gold. Reveals elements of honeysuckle and oyster liquor, with a benevolence to its maturity and character, just a shade of beeswax.  Spherical palate shows a layered depth, its golden fruits nuanced and seductively textured. The finish is long, cucumber-saline, and impeccably balanced. Last bottle on a case. Now.

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Domaine Labet, Chardonnay Lias 2019

A vineyard blend of La Pellerine, Le Crêt, and Arteau averaging 40 year old vines. Grown in blue lias clay on top of calcareous Bathonian soils, and raised in old wood for 20 months. Full gold. Fenugreek, straw, sea breeze, and varnish on the nose. Rich start yet refined, with a deeply flavored display of white fruits and limestone minerality. The finish is tapered, saline, and very long. Now –…

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Domaine Antoine Jobard, Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru 2009

Bright yellow robe with golden hints. There is a tangerine-peach duet on the nose, accompanied by sweet hay, vanilla, a hazelnut and toast richness, lemon tart notes. The palate has a round shape and a plump intensity, nashi pear wrapped around its citrus heart, with tangy notes of fruit skin and peel in good evidence. The joyous finish is laced with a white florals and a tinkle of minerality.…

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Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru 2009

Star bright yellow robe with golden hints. Toasted hazelnut and grain as it takes on air. Polished and creamy, sandalwood and verbana, with a peachier inflection drenched over the citrus infused core to this wine. It’s less emphatic but more nuanced in perfume and spice than Jobard’s. Just honey lemon washes over the saline finish. Last bottle on a case. Now – 2030.

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Hospices de Beaune (Jean-Marc Pillot), Meursault Les Genevrières Cuvée Baudot 1er Cru 2009

Shiny yellow robe with golden hints. The nose gives dried fruits, toasted grains, nutty airs, just honeyed lemon, straw, sweeter notions of nutmeg and marzipan. The palate is a mature ensemble and expression of the Genevrières site, fresh and flowing tree fruit with an orange peel twist. It has a bright outer tone, firm flesh on the inside, a touch of lemon peel tang in the mid to late. The…

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Domaine des Héritiers (Maison Louis Jadot), Beaune Clos des Ursules 1er Cru 1993

Ruby.  Opens with skater’s grace and harmony and a gaze way up past the tree-line.  It lands on red berried dust suede.  Umami finish, long and memorable.  Now – 2035+.  

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Domaine Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos-Saint-Jacques 1er Cru 1995

Thirty years on. Ruby. Unlocked nose that is full of fragrance, offers beef stock, forest floor, pressed flower, and blackthorn fruit. The palate is similar – carries a bold sort of black fruit, has a grounded depth and strength. Spice and mineral traces drive it along, covers the palate across and along, and it ends on a bright, positive surge. Now – 2035+.

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Philipponnat, Brut 'Clos de Goisses' Mareuil-sur-Aÿ 1999

65% PN, 35% Chardonnay from a steep, walled south-facing vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ.  30% matured in oak cask.  Disgorged: March 2007.  Dosage: 4.8 g/l. Green gold.  Evinces a very pure, tart choke cherry aspect while retaining sweeter suggestions of blueberry compote with liqueur-like intensity.  Tree sap, cake batter, purple iris and the fat of the clean lees in a peacock’s tail of…

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Dönnhoff, Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese Nahe 2010

Fifteen years on. From magnum. Yellow-green. The nose mixes floral and mineral very well, shows linden flower, sea breeze, smoke, crab apple, white cherry, petrol, and mint. Gains poise with air, gets closer together. The palate is moderately sweet, shows the depth of Brucke now, offers poise, balance, and a true texture of slate, spice, alongside layers of red, yellow, and green fruit. The…

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Dönnhoff, Dellchen Riesling Großes Gewächs Nahe 2010

Fifteen years on. Medium yellow, flecked with green. Embracing bouquet, it’s alert on the inside, ripe on the outside. Eau de vie and mirabelle; sea breeze and forest floor; smoked balsam fir and thai basil. The palate is well-textured, holds a proper depth and fullness of yellow, green, and white fruits that are thoroughly established, with nippy notes of invigoratingly tart fruit skin and…

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Domaine Frederic Esmonin, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1999

Decent ruby robe, has life in it. On the nose there’s good fruit core, ozonic damp woods, sous bois, cepes, a tea aspect like cold brew lapsang suchong. The palate comes with nice drive and an inviting sweetness, with stylish black woodland berries and spice. Has a fresh spine, gains energy and momentum as it goes, holds dark woodsy aspects. There’s a Gevrey savor on the exit. Last bottle on a…

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Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru 1999

Ruby. If mineral can be delicious, then here it is. A perfectly streamlined palate, an apex of berries and calcaire with notes of orchids now turning to baozhong tea. Quite firm really, especially underneath, but the impeccability of fruit and ripeness of the tannin dissuades you of this. Beguiling as ever, another Barthod to celebrate the jubilee. Now – 2040.

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Château Lafleur, Pomerol 1989

January 2025 Ruby. The bouquet has a sweet air, rich, dried fruits such as dates with a mild savory streak of beef stock, dried blood, blackberry undernotes, a mixture of oily and damp touches of age. There are both salty and pressed flower contributors, and creamy sandalwood airs. What a warm breadth to this – an enormously wide and complete bouquet. The palate combines richness and grain,…

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Domaine Bruno Desaunay-Bissey, Grands Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru 1999

Plum red. The nose carries perfume in an unforced style, offers up organic aromas of sous bois, rose hip, woodland berry, damp moss, mint, five spice powder. The palate gains a spur with ripe red fruits, ties in incense and dried floral lift, and finishes on sweet-savory autumnal notes. Last bottle on a case. Now.

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Maison Remoissenet Père et Fils, Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru 1999

Fox red. The bouquet is resolved, has advanced into interesting areas. There is a scented, floral dash before the wine moderates, an immediate thread of asian spice and beet root, an underpinning of forest floor. The palate is correct, spiced, neatly detailed, the fruit streams along, leaves a vivid impression. It lengthens on notes of mineral notes, tea leaves. Last bottle on a case. Now.