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Understanding Table Saw Terminology

   If you're in the market for a table saw, you'll have a number of options and features to consider. To make the best decision, a basic understanding of the "inner workings" of this woodshop standard is essential. Below, I'll describe the primary table saw components, what makes them important, and what to look for when it comes time to buy. The Table Saw Base - More Than Just a Firm Footing Beginning at the bottom, the table saw base houses the working parts of the saw, including the trunnions, the arbor assembly, the sector gears, and sometimes the motor. On some saws, the base is a "cabinet" type, meaning that a fully enclosed base extends all the way to the floor. Other saws have an open base, meaning that the base consists of a metal box that surrounds the internal working parts of the saw on four sides, but not the bottom. Open base saws have legs that extend downward from the bottom of the base to the floor. A few recent additions to the table saw market combine features of cabinet-base saws and open-base saws. These "hybrid" saws have both a completely enclosed base and legs. The small, enclosed base of the hybrid saw promotes dust collection and limits noise. A popular choice for hobbyist and small professional shops, hybrid table saws are also lighter and more affordable than traditional cabinet table saws.  If you cherished this article and you also would like to receive more info about Table Saw nicely visit our own website. Table Saw Motor, Trunnions, and Arbor Assembly The motor, trunnions, arbor assembly, and gearing make up the essential mechanical components of the saw. These quality and robustness of these components varies considerably and can greatly impact the durability of the saw, its capacity for cutting heavy stock and its ability to stay in adjustment and hold settings. Most table saws - other than small bench top models - are equipped with induction type motors in the 1 - 5 HP range. On larger saws, you'll most often find a "totally enclosed, fan cooled" (TEFC) induction motor. A TEFC motor is designed for continuous duty and is sealed against dust and other contaminants - a significant advantage in a woodshop. Saws specifically designed for hobbyists and home use are usually outfitted with motors under 3 HP and can be operated on standard 110 volt residential circuitry. In general, motors in this class are powerful enough for routine cutting of sheet goods and hardwoods up to 1'' thick. Professional-class saws, on the other hand, have motors in the 3- 5 HP range and require a 220 volt power supply. Motors in this category are designed to stand up to hours of continuous duty, and have enough power to cut thick, heavy hardwood stock without bogging down. The The Table Surface and Extension Wings The quality of the table saw surface (or "bed") is extremely important to the overall performance of the machine. The table surface needs to be reliably flat and rigid to properly support the workpiece during a cut. As one of the most massive parts of the saw, the table surface also plays a major role in absorbing vibration. Because of the need for mass, rigidity and flatness, cast iron is the material of choice for the top of a table saw. On a quality saw, the table is made using a hefty quantity of cast iron and state-of-the-art foundry methods. The end result of the casting process is then precision ground to flatness in the .0005'' tolerance range. Many table saws can be purchased with optional extension wings. Table extension wings bolt on to the right and left sides of the table and increase the surface area of the saw to help support wide stock and sheet materials. On a heavy duty stationary saw, the extensions are usually cast iron, while on smaller saws, they may be made of lighter stamped steel or the lighter "webbed" style of cast iron. One drawback of lighter-weight table extensions is that they have less mass, and the overall mass of the saw is what soaks up the vibration crated by the motor and other moving parts. The added mass of heavy cast iron extension wings decreases vibration, which in turn helps the saw stay in calibration, and also helps it stay planted firmly on the shop floor. On less expensive saws, extensions made of stamped metal, or ones that aren't precision ground, can also compromise the overall flatness of the table surface. The Rip Fence and Rails The rip fence guides the wood as it is being ripped (cut along its length) and can be positioned to any width of cut within the saw's range. The fence rides on fence rails attached to the front and rear edge of the table. Ideally, the system keeps the fence perfectly parallel to the plane of the blade, regardless of where the fence is positioned. The quality and accuracy of fence systems, however, varies greatly across the spectrum. The quality of a table saw's fence system is an extremely important consideration: A poorly designed or inaccurate fence greatly diminishes the quality and accuracy of the cut, and can be a source of significant frustration. For saws in the price range of most hobbyists, the famous Biesemeyer T-square fence design sets the standard. Fortunately, many smaller, more affordable saws come standard with a reasonably accurate system patterned after the tried and true Biesemeyer design. The Miter Gauge Most table saws use the miter gauge and miter slot system to allow for crosscutting. A miter gauge consists of a cast metal protractor head attached to a length of metal bar. The bar rides in corresponding "miter slot" in the table saw's surface. Protractor on the "no frills" miter gauges that come with most table saws can be set to crosscut stock at any angle between 90 and 30 degrees and, if well made, do a serviceable job with most "routine" crosscutting. One of the more useful add-ons for just about any table saw is either an upgraded system offered by the manufacturer, or an aftermarket miter gauge or crosscutting sled. These tools provide, in various combinations, repeatable incremental angle positioning, longer fences, stop blocks and other advanced features that can come in handy in projects that call for precision crosscutting.

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How to Choose the Best Miter Saw

   Since the birth of the first chop saw, miter saws have steadily become more advanced, more popular and incredibly more useful. In fact, where precision crosscuts and accurate miters are concerned, there is scarcely a better tool than a miter saw. Allowing users to work faster and with far greater accuracy, to perform compound miter cuts, bevel cuts and to work with larger pieces of material, the multipurpose miter saw is a tool that little else can contest. The world of high-performance miter saws, though, offers craftsmen a kind of double-edged sword. Because the tools can perform so many applications, because they're built in many different sizes with different features, focuses and benefits, choosing the best miter saw for your life and work-load can be surprisingly difficult. Accordingly, I've put together the below information to help guide you (or compound slide you) in the right direction. Features and Considerations You: Ultimately, the first point to consider is not necessarily on or about the miter saw at all. Instead, your first thoughts should be about how you are going to use the tool. How often will you use it? What will you need to cut? Where (shop, garage, job site) will you work with it? and etc. Having a plan and a budget before you begin looking seriously for your miter saw will help you make a better decision. Cutting Capacity: The most popular and most universal miter saws typically offer a 10-inch or 12-inch cutting capacity. Though you will find miter saws with capacities that are both larger and smaller than this, I recommend most users stay within those parameters. Across the board, a 12-inch sliding compound miter saw offers the greatest cutting capacity, but it will also be a more expensive, heavier tool. Choosing between a compound and a sliding compound miter saw, then, requires a few considerations.  If you adored this short article and you would like to obtain more facts concerning miter saw kindly see our website. Compound Miter Saws On a compound miter saw, the blade moves in three general directions. First, the blade moves up and down in a chopping motion. Second, the blade moves about 45-degrees to the left and right for miter cuts, and lastly, the blade will lean either to the left or to the left and right to perform bevel and double bevel cuts. Although compound miter saws are typically more portable and less expensive than sliding compound miter saws, they also have less capacity for wider boards. Most often, a compound miter saw will be unable to through-cut a wide board with a single pass. Sliding Compound Miter Saws A sliding compound miter saw does all of the things a compound miter saw does while also adding a few more things to the pot. For starters, a sliding compound miter saw is designed with two rail-like tubes that allow the blade to move back and forth in a larger range of motion. This grows crosscutting capacity by a few inches and allows users to through-cut wider boards (usually with one easy pass). Because of these tubes, though, sliding compound miters saws are typically heavier, they are less portable and they're more expensive. With the exception of some Bosch and Makita saws that utilize a kind of articulating arm in lieu of sliding-tubes, sliding compound miters also require more room (especially at the rear of the saw) to work properly.