#enrichment in the isopod tank

[kabutoden]

bug trolls… i am interested in kankri vantas. if that isn’t too much trouble. your buggy guys are so silly and interesting and i am a fan

here is kankri and his baby brother…. they don’t get along!! i wish they did though id love to see these two go on an adventure together where they look out each other. since kankri is a beforus troll and a vegan, his shell is pretty thin because he’s not getting enough iron. on the other hand, karkat’s shell is heavier then it should be due to stress. thanks for the RQ!! im soooo glad ppl like my sillies :D

[followthebluebell]

Do you have a bio active enclosure for your beardie? Or do your isopods live in a separate tank?

Nah, he's in a pretty basic 4x2x2 set-up because he kept trying to eat the dirt and sticks in a bioactive. He's got a little digbox (and grow box) for enrichment and fresh greens. He generally eats them before they get too tall, but he seems to like it. He's getting on in years--- he's 13, I think, and had a Suspicious Lump removed last month, so I try not to shake his world around too much.

My isopods live in a 10 gallon tank.

[theshitpostcalligrapher]

right before i forget let's have some creature updates:

peppercorn is in an enclosre with a front opening panel now and every day his enrichment is worming his way against the corners in order to tear his thermometer down

apologies for the weird corner I'm zoomed in to like the leftmost third of his tank so it's reflecting my monitor from across the room

chao update: Loamf. cursing my bloodline with that stare i think.

isopod update: i have a hell of a busy next few days but I will but changing out some of the old detritus for a new set of leaves and handful of vegetable scraps, and will update with pics then

[high-theyre-frendough]

I finally bought an adequately sized big stick for my one snake (enrichment for his enclosure), and he is no longer refusing to eat. Huzzah. (I actually got it a while ago but am currently thinking about it)

It is a pain in the ass getting proper equipment for larger snakes, btw. A big stick that supports the weight of a big snake. He uses it to help himself shed and to climb :) big boy wiggle noodle.

I need to get him more moss at some point. Live moss. To help with the humidity.

His enclosure is bioactive with springtails, isopods, and a small plant (the other 5 he crushed btw) but i think i could get him some live moss.

He's a big snekky doodle. Ill feed him tomorrow.

Btw does anyone know anywhere to get decent long feeding tongs? The ones i currently have require grip strength i dont have. They are like 2 or 3 feet long, i think? 2 feet? It's a difficult length.

I've never been bitten, and I'd like to keep it that way. Mike is blinder than I am. He detects motion, and that's about it. If he was face to face with a live rat, he would lose that fight. He's a very friendly and domesticated noodle, but I don't doubt if I handed him a rat without tongs, he'd bite my fucking hand because it would smell like a rat and he's dumb.

Unrelated, but the axolotls attack me/the cleaning scrubber thing when I'm cleaning their tanks. Mike just ignores me when I'm cleaning his enclosure. He does get mildly annoyed if i spray him when im spraying his enclosure (to keep his humidity optimal), but he just hides when im doing that (i dont blame him).

Mike is the name of a large ball python btw. Short for motorbike.

[girlsjustwant2havefun]

there are mushrooms growing in the isopod tank! a very positive sign that ive been doing good at enriching the substrate

[idledoll]

The isopod enclosure is all set up! I'll be ordering my new friends early next week.

This whole thing has taught me that isopods are extraordinarily like hamsters in that they are also the perfect pet for me. Both species are creatures with little to no need for social enrichment from their owner, which means I get to create a really cool environment for them (which is one of the most fun parts of pet ownership imo) and dump them inside so I can watch them do their own thing, completely happy and healthy in their enclosures. They both have pretty easy daily/weekly maintenance and only need huge cage clean-outs a few times a year.

Also, the ways in which you can spoil them silly is almost endless but it is also entirely possible to make them happy without spending a lot of money--funnily enough, I was able to use a lot of things I had on hand for the hamsters already to put the isopod tank together, since I strongly prefer naturalistic enclosures.

[petlover121]

Top 7 Reptile Bedding Options Every Reptile Owner Needs to Know

Creating a safe, clean, and comfortable habitat is crucial for the well-being of any reptile. One of the most important decisions you’ll make is choosing the right reptile bedding. Bedding not only affects the cleanliness of the enclosure but also plays a major role in your pet's health, comfort, and behavior.

Whether you're a first-time reptile owner or a seasoned enthusiast, understanding the best options for terrarium bedding can dramatically improve your reptile's quality of life. In this guide, we’ll explore the top 7 bedding for lizards, snakes, turtles, and other popular pet reptiles.

Why Choosing the Right Reptile Bedding Matters

The type of reptile bedding you use impacts:

Humidity Control: Proper bedding helps maintain necessary humidity levels.

Shedding Assistance: Some reptiles require specific substrates for healthy shedding.

Hygiene: Good bedding reduces odors and prevents bacterial growth.

Natural Behavior: Certain reptiles love to burrow, dig, or hide, which bedding should support.

Safety: The wrong bedding can lead to impaction or respiratory issues.

Not all bedding options are created equal, so it’s vital to match the material to your specific reptile’s needs.

Top 7 Reptile Bedding Options

1. Coconut Husk Substrate

Coconut husk is one of the most popular choices for terrarium bedding. It's ideal for reptiles that require a higher humidity environment, such as geckos, chameleons, and certain snakes.

Benefits:

Excellent moisture retention

Natural odor control

Biodegradable and eco-friendly

Best for: Tropical reptiles and amphibians.

2. Reptile Carpet

Reptile carpet is a reusable, washable fabric layer perfect for beginners and anyone looking for low-maintenance reptile bedding.

Benefits:

Easy to clean and replace

Reduces the risk of impaction

Ideal for desert species

Best for: Bearded dragons, leopard geckos, and juvenile reptiles.

3. Aspen Shavings

Aspen shavings offer a natural, burrow-friendly environment, especially for species that enjoy digging.

Benefits:

Great for dry, low-humidity habitats

Encourages burrowing behavior

Minimal dust if properly processed

Best for: Snakes and bedding for lizards like skinks.

Note: Avoid cedar or pine shavings as they can release toxic oils harmful to reptiles.

4. Cypress Mulch

Cypress mulch is an excellent choice for those needing to maintain a moist environment.

Benefits:

Naturally resistant to mold

Excellent moisture retention

Aesthetic appeal for naturalistic terrariums

Best for: Frogs, turtles, and tropical snakes.

5. Sand (with Caution)

Sand can mimic the natural environment of many desert reptiles, but it comes with risks.

Benefits:

Natural look for desert setups

Supports natural digging behavior

Drawbacks:

Risk of impaction if ingested

Needs careful monitoring and proper reptile-specific sand

Best for: Adult bearded dragons and uromastyx (with proper supervision).

6. Bioactive Substrate

Bioactive setups are growing in popularity for those who want a self-cleaning environment.

Benefits:

Mimics natural ecosystem

Reduces cleaning frequency

Encourages natural behaviors

Best for: Advanced reptile owners comfortable with maintaining live plants, isopods, and springtails.

Bioactive terrarium bedding is ideal for species that benefit from dynamic, enriching environments.

7. Paper Towels or Newspaper

While not the most attractive option, paper products can be very practical for certain situations.

Benefits:

Inexpensive and readily available

Easy to monitor health (feces, shedding)

Perfect for quarantine tanks or hatchlings

Best for: Sick reptiles, young hatchlings, or temporary enclosures.

Choosing the Best Bedding for Lizards, Snakes, and Other Reptiles

When selecting the ideal bedding for lizards or snakes, always consider:

Species-specific needs (desert vs. tropical)

Humidity requirements

Risk of ingestion

Ease of cleaning

Natural behaviors (digging, burrowing, hiding)

Choosing high-quality reptile bedding ensures your pet thrives, remains stress-free, and lives a long, healthy life.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the right reptile bedding is essential to create a thriving environment for your pet. Always prioritize your reptile's natural behaviors, habitat requirements, and health when selecting bedding. Whether you need a lush, humid environment or a dry, sandy desert feel, the right terrarium bedding can make all the difference in your reptile's happiness and longevity.

FAQs

Q1. How often should I change reptile bedding?

It depends on the type of bedding and reptile species. Spot-clean daily and fully replace loose substrates every 2–4 weeks. Bioactive setups require less frequent changes but regular monitoring.

Q2. Can I use sand as terrarium bedding for all reptiles?

No. While sand is suitable for some desert species, it poses a risk of impaction if ingested. Always research your specific reptile’s needs before choosing sand.

Q3. What is the safest bedding for lizards?

For many lizard species, reptile carpet, paper towels, or calcium-based sand (for adults) are considered safer. Always match the bedding with your lizard’s natural habitat and behavior.

Q4. Is coconut fiber good for reptiles?

Yes, coconut fiber or coconut husk is a fantastic natural substrate that supports humidity-loving reptiles, helps with shedding, and is safe if ingested in small amounts.

Q5. Can I mix different types of reptile bedding?

Yes, experienced reptile keepers often blend different materials to better mimic natural environments. For instance, mixing coconut husk with orchid bark can create excellent terrarium bedding for tropical species.

[evil-robot-cat]

A year ago I split the fern in my vivarium and put half of it into a new terrarium (the difference is creatures - I keep isopods).

Recently I added a few isopods from the back yard to my vivarium. Their home was being destroyed by yard work, I happened to be there, I scooped up a few.

Unlike my spoiled third-generation tank-raised babies that lounge around sunbathing all day and ignore me when I add tasty snacks, these new ones are wild animals who have known a life of danger.

And, unfortunately, a life devoid of tasty snacks. They shun the carrots, cabbage, and gut load blocks, and eat almost exclusively fern fronds. The fern is now in danger of being eaten away to nothing.

I have, in an attempt to protect my vivarium fern, harvested some of the terrarium fern's fronds and placed them in the eating area. I hope the isopods will eat those and leave their environmental enrichment alone.

As I put the fronds into the vivarium, I thought to myself, "These were once the same plant. This dying leaf could communicate with the living one and catch up on what they've been doing in their time apart. Or perhaps they have no memory or knowledge of their connection. I don't know if they're still the same plant or completely different ones now."

And that's how you make peace with the different Zelda timelines.

[entei]

ive been planning bioactive enclosures for all my different reptile set ups along with some additional decoration i might throw together for fun/animal enrichment. their tanks have been in need of a deep clean for some time. id like to cohab them with a clean up crew, springtails at least. not sure what i want to do for plants, im so afraid of killing them :| but i also havent tried to raise any plants since i was a kid. im super interested in having an isopod colony and maaaybe cohabbing them? idk i was having trouble finding anyone with first hand experience in doing that and i didnt want to be the first to try it! id really like to branch out into invert keeping in general, and a lot of the ones that i have as a goal someday (interested in longer lived arachnids like ts and vinegaroons) need feeders so ive been thinking about raising some. i LOVE dubia roaches, theyre very cute, im just not sure if thats reasonable for my current collection size, i think i will very quickly get more roaches than i could use. i hate keeping crickets so much. im sorry crickets. youre very smelly. mealworms seem pretty reasonable and also beetles are cute.

[zooophagous]

What exactly is a bio-active enclosure? I assume it has something to do with ~other living things~ in the tank with the reptile but what exactly is it?

It's kind of like a microcosm of a larger environment as a whole. The idea is that you provide a naturalistic enclosure that comes complete with a decay cycle like what exists in the wild. So you have little springtails and isopods living in your soil, often live plants, and its built to encourage good bacteria and beneficial fungi that break down the animal's waste and in turn help feed the plants.

In theory a well established bioactive enclosure shouldn't need much maintenance because the tiny inverts break down all the animal waste, as opposed to a traditional enclosure where all old substrate has to be removed as its soiled.

In addition to being lower maintenance because you aren't removing all your old substrate to scrub down the cage, it provides more enrichment for the animals, as they can dig dens and hunt the little insects that grow in their home and it allows a broader range of natural behavior. It also often looks better, because it focuses so heavily on live plants and natural looking landscaping.

It's not necessarily possible for everyone to do and it is possible to do it poorly, but it looks really nice when it's done well.

[fbwzoo]

Top 5 things you would fix about pet stores…

Oh christ, I’m only supposed to pick five things? XD Okay, I’ll try….. These are in order of my preference for fixing from most important to least important.

1) No more animals available. Stop the breeding mills. Stop selling animals that have horrible genetics, that are overcrowded & sick, that are already pregnant, etc. to people who have very little clue what they’re getting into. Ideally pet stores would work with local shelters to show off adoptable pets they have available. Animals would be displayed either in appropriate set ups in-store or come for designated meet-n-greet days for different shelters. Perhaps pictures from local reputable breeders or breeders that are able to ship (like so many reptile breeders will). The pet store shows off the potential animals & gives access to a greater audience, but interested homes will still have to go through the shelter or breeder in order to adopt/purchase an animal. Pet stores should also have a vetting process for both shelters & breeders to weed out those engaging in shady practices. Wild caught animals should have an even more extensive vetting process to check for background of capture, appropriate capture methods, sustainable capturing, and appropriate handling. No sale of threatened or endangered species (I could see cases being made for experienced breeders hoping to establish captive breeding, or zoos wanting to establish breeding programs, but this should be a limited practice & not widely available).

2) No. Dangerous/Unhealthy. Supplies. Like okay, I know everything has the potential to be dangerous, etc. etc., but christ, can we not have seed/nut treats sold for hedgehogs? Can we not have wire wheels sold? And no more of… literally anything sold for hermit crabs, tbh. Time to ban rawhide. And no more non-meat treats sold for ferrets, or shampoos/bathing supplies with essential oils sold for cats & ferrets. A heavy reworking of foods available for non-dog/cat animals, since so many are just garbage. Some conceding could be made for seed foods for parrots that are still stuck on them & need time to change over, but replace most of that shit with pellets. And can we trash colored heat lights already? Want to buy things like prong collars & electric collars? Better have letters from trainers & vets in order to get one.

3) Appropriately sized enclosures only. No tanks or bowls under 5g. Preferably nothing under 10g, to be quite honest. But I could concede 5g for some insects, maybe, possibly small isopod colonies, or a couple fancy beetles. Those crappy little wire bird cages? Smash ‘em. Maybe keep one line of more medium-ish sturdy cages that have some kind of use for travel or sleep cages. If necessary, provide ordering options for large bird cages (if there’s not room for storage/display in-store). Smash all of those crappy Habitrail nonsense for small animals as well. Sell C&C cubes and other appropriate materials for making enclosures/playpens for guinea pigs & rabbits - maybe sell the materials in a package deal for one enclosure, with instructions on putting together. Extra fee for putting enclosure together if desired. Contracts with viv companies to sell vivs in-store or a discount for shipping or something like that. 

4) Emphasis on enrichment. Larger sections for enrichment for different animal species. Enrichment labeled for the different animals it’s applicable for. Handouts or signs detailing enrichment dangers or hazards to avoid for different animal species (like things that aren’t safe for chewing for hamsters/rodents, unsafe foods, appropriate fabrics, etc.). Larger variety of wood for decor, perches, etc. 

5) Reduced produce section. I have no clue how viable this is, but I think it’d be neat if pet stores had contracts with grocery stores in their area to take produce that’s at or just past their use-by date & the pet stores paid a reduced price for it, then place out each day for people to purchase for pets. Not everything could necessarily be used this way, given some foods that aren’t safe for nearly any pet (onions & such). But it seems like most stuff could be used as such and would possibly reduce how much is thrown out from stores? Honestly I’d just like to see more healthy food options available at pet stores in general, like fresh food options for lots of exotics, & raw meaty bones for dogs/cats/ferrets, and birdy bread & grain mixes & such for parrots/rats/etc.

A lot of this is stuff I’d like to implement into a pet store of my own, if it ever happens. I wish it was something that could be done with all pet stores. It’d really improve pet care in general in this country. And having animals much less available and with less of a dollar value put on them would make it harder for people to abuse/neglect commonly available small animals that don’t have a very high money value like goldfish, betta fish, hermit crabs, hamsters, mice & rats, budgies, anoles, leopard geckos, bearded dragons, ball pythons…. All of these critters just get a really rough deal in most pet care situations and it just really, really sucks.

(Edit: Thank you for asking!!! ♥)

[happylilfrogs]

Eastern Red-Backed Salamander Care

One of the first species of Salamanders I was able to keep and they quickly stole my heart with their tiny size and interesting behaviors.  The red-backed salamander is native to North America and is normally found in deciduous forests hiding under logs, in the leaf litter, or under rocks. 

These salamanders aren’t common in the pet trade however they have easy care and will readily breed in captivity, but it's their shy nature that tends to lose peoples interest sadly. If you like to pay a game of hide and seek where you’re always seeking and the salamanders hiding then this might be the salamander for you then!

The Basics:

Common Name: Eastern Red-backed Salamander.

Scientific name:  Plethodon cinereus.

Lifespan: 10-15 years.

Social: Solitary.

Size: 2.5-5.5 inches. 

Enclosure size: 5 gallons( 16" x 8" x 10" )minimum, but bigger is better. 

Region and Habitat

These little salamanders are found in the eastern region of North America inhabiting damp woodlands. They can be found under logs, leaf little, rocks, or in little burrows most of the time and tend to avoid water or soggy/saturated ground. 

  Appearance and Size

A juvenile red-backed salamander with a penny for size comparison (photo credit).

Red-backed are very small salamanders only getting 2.5-5 inches big. There are very few differences in size or coloration with sexes, but they can be sexed based on the shape of their face. Females having rounded face and males having a crescent-shaped mental glad under the chin, nasolabial glands, enlarged premaxillary teeth, and hedonic glands near the base of their tails. With a salamander so small sexing them is no easy feat though, but an easier way to tell is by looking at their faces since you can see the cirri (downward points on the upper lip) on males well females have smooth rounded faces.

 (photo credit)

Despite their name “red-backed” salamander they actually come a lot of different color morphs, but the three most common being the lead phase, red-backed, and gold-back colors.

(photo credit)

However, those aren’t the only colors they come in and you can check out other cool morphs they’ve been found in here!

Diet 

These tiny guys feed on various small invertebrates such as dwarf isopods, springtails, microworms, bean beetles, pinhead crickets, flightless fruit flies, small earthworms, and blackworms. Adults should be fed 3-4 times a week well babies/juveniles should be fed daily or 4-6 times a week (personally I’ve found my juvi will eat 4 times a week, but results might vary). I’ve found its best to feed them at night when they are most active and mist the tank to mimic rainfall to lure them out to eat. 

Housing

Tank size

One can be kept in 5-gallon tanks (16x8x10) or larger if you prefer it. The footprint being most important since this species does not climb and making sure you’ve chosen a tank where your salamander can’t escape since they can slip through the smallest gap (especially juveniles).

A female red-backed salamander protecting her eggs (photo credit).

Solitary or Communal? 

This species is mostly solitary, but have very complex social structures for amphibians. They are very territorial but seem to be socially monogamous so they will have long-term mated pairs and don’t tend to be aggressive to those that they are related to (offspring, siblings, etc.). Since many being sold will have unknown lineage and sexing being difficult it is safest to house them alone to avoid injury and stress. 

Substrate 

It's best to use a substrate that holds humidity well, but be careful to avoid any acidic soil such as peat and sphagnum since they prefer alkaline/neutral soils.. Eco earth tends to be an easy safe choice, but you can also try a bioactive mix of 3 parts organic topsoil, 2 parts eco earth, and 1 part sand. Be sure to test pH of topsoil since it varies on area, 6.5-8 pH is the safe range for your salamanders. 

I always recommend a bio-active enclosure for these salamanders due to their small size and shy nature. They will thrive in a bio-active tank with plenty of plants for them to use as cover and hide in as well as it being enriching and stimulating their natural habitats. 

Water/Humidity/Temperature

These salamanders are full terrestrial and won’t make use of a water dish so its best to just avoid one altogether.

Temperature is important for these salamanders since they are heat sensitive and if kept too warm too long it can cause heat strokes and death. Its best to keep their enclosures 60-68f (15-20c) and avoid anything 75f(23-24c) and above.

There's no specific humidity listed for them, but I keep mine at 60-80% range, but for the most part, make sure the tank is always damp and moist. Depending on your set up you might need to mist daily, but make sure to prevent the soil from getting soggy and over saturated as they don’t like it.

Lighting

They don’t need UVB lighting(however as with any animal its beneficial), but should be provided with enough light that they can tell day from night. Its best to use LED lights with salamanders since they give off very little heat so they won’t overheat the enclosure.

Sources and Further Reading

Caudata

On the subject of nature

Science Direct

National Zoo  

NCBI 

Amphibia

Academics

[sunfish-exotics]

In that last ask you mentioned used giant canyon isopods in your leo bioactive enclosure, how are they doing in a drier environment? I'm wanting to switch my hoggie over to bioactive but I'm having trouble finding species of isopods that are suited to drier climates. Are there any other species other than the giant canyon isos that you might recommend for a hognose terrarium?

They’re doing fine! Keep in mind that even in an arid or temperate bioactive tank you should have more humid areas / humid microclimates so the animals can self regulate properly. I used to keep my hognoses on bioactive and I basically overfilled their water bowls once a week and watered the entire tank maybe once every 2-3 weeks. I am not super well versed in isopods, I only keep a few species, but @tser is an excellent resource for isopods, I actually got my giant canyons from them! The only reason my hognoses aren’t on bio right now is because they’re breeding and finding eggs in bio tanks is a lot more difficult than just having an egg box in with the laying female. I’m toying with moving all of my hogs over to bioactive next season though, and basically turning the entire enclosure into a nest box for the gravid females. I’ve found that males often eat better with the scent enrichment a mixed substrate & leaf litter layer provides as well. Food for thought 😉

[tser]

Hi there, I'm a starter keeper of hermit crabs and I was wondering if you knew any fellow amphibian/reptile/etc tumblrs that keep them or post about them! I'm very interested in up-hauling and upgrading my current setup as it's a very basic tank and my crab's pretty lonely, and I love your bioactive enclosures for the geckos and would love to see if something similar is an option for crabs. Thanks!

Hi! My wife keeps them, but I don’t post about them much since they’re not mine. 

Bioactive is definitely an option for crabs! The best substrate for hermit crabs is a mix of around 50/50 coco fiber (Eco Earth)/play sand. This works very well at creating a bioactive enclosure. Since hermit crabs need very deep substrate, this is a plus for bioactive, as the more volume of substrate you have the better it is able to handle your pet’s waste. 

Then you will need your clean up crew; isopods and springtails will both do great in the humid, damp conditions of a hermit crab enclosure. I would suggest at least dwarf isopods (white, purple, or striped), and springtails, but you can also add some bigger isopods if you want. Isopods are terrestrial crustaceans, just like hermit crabs!

I also suggest adding some kind of leaf litter to cover at least some of the substrate. Make sure it is not exposed to car exhaust or pesticides or fungicides. It’s easy to buy online if you don’t have a source. Oak (including live oak or other species), magnolia, sea grape, and Indian almond leaf are all good choices. You can also provide softer leaf litter like maple. This will provide places for the cuc to colonize under, and also some additional food, along with the hermit crabs’ waste and any leftover food. Hermit crabs will munch it also.

Hermit crabs will destroy any plants you put in there. If you want, you can provide some plants for them to shred and eat (just make sure they’re safe) but make sure you don’t care if they’re destroyed. Think of them as enrichment.

I will open this to my followers who might know of some crab-oriented blogs!

[mossiestpiglet]

Oh yay now i can info dump about bioactive terrariums too!!!!

So I do my enclosures for most of my animals in a way that would be considered bioactive, but also very low tech and low maintenance. The tank described above is just an aquarium, there’s no terrestrial or emergent component since I had to put a lid on it to preserve the wooden furniture near by and to stop any potential bettas from jumping out. I’ve not done a true paludarium/emergent enclosure yet because I don’t have any critters suited to them, but the next animals on my mind are milk frogs, and many people have luck with them in paludariums because the breed very readily in that environment. I also want to get a musk turtle if I can figure out space for a tank with a big footprint, and the basking areas on that would likely have emergent plant growth involved.

People tend to think that doing bioactive with snakes is difficult, but I’ve had really great experiences with mine so far! I have two of my three snakes in bioactive currently. The third is my 22 year old retired breeder rosy boa, and I have her in as minimalistic a setup as I am comfortable putting an animal in (aspen bedding, only two hides and branches, one ring to play with). She’s in this because I needed to make sure she could adjust to moving out of a rack system, to no longer being brumated in winter, and to easily see her feces for health checks. Now that I’ve had her for over six months and have been able to observe her behavior and health, I’ll be moving her into a 75 gallon bioactive once it’s available.

My two young snakes are in fully bioactive enclosures now, but one is temperate and one is tropical.

My california king snake is about a year and a half old and a little less than 30” long. I have him in this cool front opening 29 gallon that I got at an expo, and it’s a great size for him for now, since he’s still shorter than the longest side and he tends to climb a lot and fall off things, so the height isn’t a dangerous drop. He can build up climbing skill and confidence with this, and as an adult I want to get him in a 4x2x4 enclosure. He started on aspen but with a potted succulent and hanging air plant, and now has those same two plants plus two 5” tall snake plants. He interacts with them quite a lot when he goes around the enclosure, especially the succulent since it has a rough bumpy texture. I was finally able to add isopods to his enclosure a few weeks ago since I had to order them and winter was too rough for shipping animals. I got a 50 count of the Porcellio scaber “lottery ticket” from smug-bug.com, and someone must have been gravid when they came in because there’s already babies running around. His humidity stays between 20-40% on a daily basis, but there are pockets of high humidity he can access always (and that’s where the isopods mostly live). I also spray the enclosure down once or twice a week, targeting water especially on the plants. The substrate is a mix of organic top soil, cypress bark, play sand, and rehydrated oak pellets meant for barbecuing (food for clean up crew). This mix is the basic base for all my enclosures, the proportions of each just vary.

I also have a 4 month old, ~20” ball python who is in a 3x2x2 enclosure. The substrate in his enclosure is much more tropical leaning than my kingsnake’s and so it also has quite a lot of spagnum moss mixed in for extra humidity. The proportions of other components are less sand, more cypress + top soil. It’s topped off with lots of magnolia leaves which help keep moisture in the soil, act as food for the cuc, and also are a fun texture for my ball python to interact with. As the leaves break down they also enrich the soil, which the live plants feed off of. His enclosure is planted with the same snake plant as the king, as well as a big jade pothos that fills a back corner, and I’ve started to also just stick cuttings or broken bits of my tropical plants in there to see what makes it. I have a tricolor rubber plant that’s struggling in a pot in my bathroom that I’m going to plant in his enclosure to see if it’ll be happier there and actually grow. He doesn’t interact with the plants much that I’ve seen, but he’s also very active while I’m asleep so I don’t know what he’s up to at night. His enclosure has a large springtail colony to handle any mold from the humid conditions, and I got a 50 ct of I think Agabaformis lentus, a dwarf isopod species. I went with those largely just because they were inexpensive and just about any isopod will thrive in a good ball python enclosure. I don’t see them at all unless I really dig for them because they’re so small and buried, so I may end up getting a larger and more colorful species just for my benefit and because it’s such a large enclosure it can likely sustain two isopod species as long as the bigger ones aren’t particularly predatory towards the dwarf ones. I spray this enclosure down about once a day, but much less targeted to the plants since that would be too much water for them to handle.

Both enclosures have 2 foot jump start led grow lights, the ball python has them on for 12 hours and the kingsnake has them on synced up with local sunrise and sunset since I live within their native range. They also have deep heat projectors as the constant heat source, I don’t use under tank heaters except in minimalist quarantine setups because they just don’t work with the deep substrates needed for bioactive enclosures.

Most people are concerned about bioactive snake enclosures for two reasons: snakes will uproot/break plants and the humidity necessary for a cuc is too high for arid and semi-arid snakes to handle.

The first point is fair, snakes absolutely will bulldoze over plants without a care in the world, especially big snakes. They don’t move around small plants, they move over them. The answer to that isn’t not to have plants, it’s to have appropriately sized and strong plants, and to start snakes with them as babies if possible. To pick the right size of “big” plants, get an idea for how big the snake is when coiled up tight, and then get a plant at least 1.5x that size. That also gets you a more established and robust plant in general, so they stand a better chance at adjusting to terrarium life and having animals around. For small plants, pick ones that are known to be problematically prolific. If it’s a weed or something people are warned about climbing everywhere as a houseplant, that’s a good choice. Anything which can reproduce vegetatively by being broken and the pieces sitting on soil is also a good choice because as the snake breaks leaves off the plant, they can land on the soil and possibly grow into new plants. With burrowing snake species there’s always a risk of the snake uprooting and knocking over the plant before they’ve established a firm root system, but I’ve never had that issue with my king snake, who also doesn’t burrow very deep now because there’s so much cover and leaf litter that he isn’t very exposed even above ground. My ball python only uses burrows that I’ve made for him, and doesn’t dig on his own at all, so it’s not a problem with him either.

As for humidity, a properly sized and setup enclosure should have regions of relatively low humidity and high humidity, no matter how arid or tropical. All reptiles have to have access to higher humidity to help with shedding and staying hydrated and with lower humidity to keep their respiratory systems clear and their skin healthy. What the exact humidity needs to be varies and how much of the enclosure is humid or dry varies, but they all need access to both. Further, the substrate layer in bioactive enclosures needs to be quite deep so that there’s room for plant roots, embedding hard scape like branches and stones, creating burrows, and for the cuc to live in. With deep substrate, the water sinks down and the heat of lights partially dries the top of the soil. The cuc will seek out any area of humidity available, including deeper in the soil, and then they can leave it for short foraging trips in drier areas.

As for snake paludariums, I really want to try it some day when I have the space and an appropriate species, and the only issues are making sure the filter and water micro biome can handle some snake poop and making sure the filter is completely inaccessible to the snake since they love getting into places they shouldn’t be. My moms favorite snake is the rhino rat snake and if I get one of those I want to do a huge arboreal paludarium since they’re semi-arboreal and semi-aquatic which is just so fun!

Biggest benefit of letting a tank really settle in and cycle without adding any animals is you get to see all the microscopic animals that come in on the plants and decor set up their own ecosystem. I set up a ten gallon on my desk mostly just to fill space and to make me want to work at my desk by having someone there to look at, but I’ve been doing a fishless cycle because it’s not my only tank and I didn’t need it stocked immediately. And now it’s got hydra, planaria, bladder snails, copepods, all living and thriving and I could watch them for hours!

[fbwzoo]

Do you know of any pets that would be easy to keep for someone with fibromyalgia? I know all pets require cleaning, enrichment, maintenance, etc but I really love animals and had to rehome mine last year since I couldn't consistently take care of them due to my illness. I've been thinking about a dog a lot, but I just don't know if I could handle all the exercise and training right now. But I really miss having pets. :(

I’m sorry you had to rehome your previous animals! :( That really sucks.

I will note that I do not have fibromyalgia & only know a little about it, so I’m working with the symptoms list I googled - the main symptoms being pain, fatigue, and mental fog.

Smaller animals are probably your best bet, I think. Invertebrates might be a good idea if you have any you take a liking to. Roaches, other beetles, millipedes, tarantulas, isopods, mantids…. all of them are popular pets. For most/all of these, you can set up a bioactive enclosure that is fairly easy to maintain - not removing/dumping/replacing a large amount of substrate each week or monthly. Enrichment is also fairly simple and most of it involves setting the enclosure up to give them room to choose their surroundings. Feeding is obviously still important, but can be pretty simple, which may be easier during brain fog & fatigue periods.

Likewise, you could also try smaller reptiles like small snakes (sand boas, rosy boas…I know there are more, but I’m blanking). Reptiles don’t typically care too much about handling, if you have a period of not being able to do so. You won’t need as big of a tank or as much substrate as larger snakes (like corn snakes & ball pythons), which may be more manageable. Crested geckos are another good possibility, especially given they have an appropriate commercial diet.

I’m hesitant to suggest fish given that water changes can be pretty involved & I know I struggle a lot with them. But if you think you could handle it, a 10g tank with a betta fish might also work.

If you really want to look into a dog, I would take your time & make sure you’re thinking everything through. But adopting a middle-aged/elderly dog from a shelter might be a possibility? Obviously you’ll need to find the right fit for you, but they are usually already trained, don’t often need as much exercise & management as a young dog/puppy, and a lot of older dogs just really need a retirement home where they can hang out & sleep. Just keep in mind medical issues, since older dogs are also more prone to those & vet bills could get pretty expensive.

A large part of managing illnesses + pets is coming up with coping methods. Schedules, notes, and alarms to help remind yourself on feeding & cleaning despite brain fog. Asking for help from friends/family when you’re having a bad period & need a little assistance. And there can be a fine line to balance this, but keeping an eye on yourself to make sure you’re providing appropriate care, but without guilting yourself into a deeper hole if you have to put off a whole-cage-clean for one or two days. Asking a friend to help check you on that can help a lot too.

(Hopefully this doesn’t sound like telling you how to manage your disability, not trying to do that! Just trying to suggest other things that might help with managing animal care, because I’ve had to do some of these things before myself.)

I know I have other followers who are disabled animal owners - does anyone else have more suggestions?