aquaresources - Tumblr blog

[aquaresources]

Maintaining A Betta Fish Tank

Before you bring your Betta fish home from the pet store, it's a very good idea to have a home ready to go for your new pet friends. When first preparing their new home, it's best to try to replicate a Betta's natural environment. This will lesson stress in their lives and help the fish live a happy and longer life. This article including 7 simple tasks will help you to easily get started your first Betta tank even if you are "brand-new" to the fish keeping hobby.

1 - Choosing A Fish Tank For Your Betta

If you only want to keep one male Betta, a 2.5-3 gallon fish tank is an affordable option that provides just enough space for the fish to thrive in. If you want to stock your Betta together with some tank mates, a 5 gallon fish tank or 10 gallon fish tank will provide a larger house for the fish.

The larger the tank is, it is easier for you to provide a stable water condition for your fish. It has been observed that Bettas that have adequate space and enough exercise will live a longer and happier life.

2 - Placing The Tank In An Appropriate Place

When first preparing their new home, it's best to try to replicate a Betta's natural environment. This will lessen stress in their lives and increase the likelihood of them flourishing in their new surroundings.

Bettas are accustomed to experiencing sunlight in their natural environment. If the room in which the tank sits does not receive natural light, the next best option is to provide artificial light. The light will not only benefit the Bettas but will also help the nitrification bacteria and plants located inside of the tank.

It is better to set your Betta fish aquarium in a space that's consistently climate-controlled. Keep the tank away from sources that produce extremes of hot and cold, such as near windows, heaters, lights, air conditioners, and vents. Bettas can take a temperature change of 3°, at most. Any more might prove stressful for them.

3 - Adding Substrate, Plants, And Decorations

When considering a substrate for the aquarium, it's best to use a natural sort. Gravel that is painted is not a good option because the paint can dissolve into the tank’s water, which can harm your fish. You should also choose gravel free from jagged edges because the edges can cause damage to your fish upon contact. For this same reason, it's also best to avoid metallic decorations.

Natural plants are an excellent choice for your Betta's home and your fish will appreciate your attention to detail in this sometimes overlooked aspect of Betta fish care. Not only do natural plants serve as natural hiding places for Bettas, they also provide your little friends with some oxygen and help to break down nitrates which accumulate in the tank water. Marimo moss balls, Guppy grass, and Amazon Sword plants are some of the best plants for Betta tanks.

If you don't like to use live plants, you can use artificial ones or equip your Betta aquarium with a  floating Betta log and a bed leaf hammock that will provide the fish peaceful places near the water surface to rest and gulp air.

4 - Fill The Tank With Dechlorinated Water

The water added to the tank must be completely free of any trace of chlorine. Tap water is an acceptable option provided it sits for at least 24 hours that enables the chlorine in the water to completely evaporate into the air. Alternatively, you can treat the water with a water conditioner which removes not only chlorine but also any harmful substances from the tap water. To keep Bettas healthy, the water in the tank should also be soft to medium (dGH 5-19) and neutral or slightly acidic (pH 6.8 - 7.4).

You'll also need to remember to leave some space between the top of the aquarium and the water surface. Betta fish are known for their jumping ability, and it's not uncommon for them to occasionally jump out of their aquarium. If a hood or glass cover is not available for one reason or another, a netting or mesh could substitute as a cover for the tank.

5 - Setting Up Equipment

Do Betta Fish Need A Filter?

Like Gouramis, Bettas are so hardy and they can live without a filter in a large enough fish tank; however, you will need to change the water more regular than using a filter. Using a filter, which helps to clean nitrogenous toxins (ammonia and nitrites) produced by fish wastes, is certainly better for the fish.

Bettas like still waters; hence, a filter with too strong flow rate can cause a lot of water turbulence and is not suitable for the fish. A gentle aquarium filter with adjustable flow rate is recommended for any Betta tanks.

Do Betta Fish Need A Heater?

Originally from tropical Asia, Betta fish are accustomed to water temperatures that are sometimes over 80 °F. Like all other freshwater fish, Bettas are temperature-sensitive. Too cool waters (below 75 °F) make them lethargic; too warm waters cause them to become overactive and their metabolisms to go into overdrive.

So what temperature should a Betta fish tank be? The survival temperature range for Bettas is between 72 and 86 °F (22-30 °C) while the optimal range is between 76-82 °F (25-28 °C). You will need a fish tank heater to keep the water temperature in this optimal range. Using a 25-watt aquarium heater for nano Betta tanks under 5 gallons, 50-watt for 10 gallons, and 100-watt for 20 gallons.

Do Betta Fish Need A Light?

If your Betta tank is placed in a room, which does not receive natural light, the answer is yes. The light will benefit not only the Bettas but also the aquatic plants in your tank and the nitrification bacteria in the filtration system.

Make sure the light you use does not heat the tank water beyond what Bettas can tolerate. Placing the light at a safe distance from the tank will usually pose no risk of raising the water temperature. A cheap clip-on LED aquarium light is just enough to light a small Betta tank with under 10 gallons of water.

After setting up all equipment you need for the tank, plug them it and check if they are working properly or not before adding your new Betta fish to the tank. Because Bettas are hardy fish, you don't need to wait for a month for the tank to cycle before stocking fish.

6 - Adding Your New Betta Fish To The Tank

Because the water that the fish is in at the pet store may be very different from the water in your home aquarium, you need to acclimate the new fish to your tank water (chemistry and temperature) before dropping it into your tank. These first hours can make the difference your Betta living a long and healthy life or becoming ill and swimming upside down in your tank.

Here is some important advice to follow to help ensure a happy experience for you and your new Betta fish:

When transporting your fish home they will be in a plastic bag (with water of course). Take the bag and float it in the aquarium for about thirty minutes, this allows the temperature of the water in the bag to adjust to match that in the aquarium.

Carefully open up the bag and add a little water from the tank to the water in the bag, about 10% of the amount in the bag should be enough. Repeat this process every 20 to 30 minutes until the bag is full of tank water. This process will adjust the water chemistry in the bag to match that of the aquarium.

Finally, slowly lower the bag into the water of your tank and allow your fish to swim out. Congratulation! Now you have a new Betta tank with a beautiful Betta swimming around inside the tank. The rest work is so simple, just maintain your tank every week (water changing) to keep it clean and your fish healthy.

7 - Maintaining A Betta Fish Tank

How Much Water Should Be Changed?

Just like it is for any aquarium, regular changing water for your Betta tank is the easiest way to keep the water quality high and your Betta healthy. The amount of water that has to be changed depends on many factors: tank size, amount of fish, live plants, filter or no filter, etc.

At least a 2.5 to 5 gallon fish tank with a filter is required for the less maintenance. As a rule of thumb, weekly 15-20% water change should be performed. If there are live aquatic plants, it will need even less maintenance. Buying Nitrate test kit and testing the water once a week will tell you lot about how often the water needs to be changed. The higher nitrate reading after a fixed time means your tank water needs to be changed more frequently.

If there is no filter in your tank, it is better to change the water a little more often, 10% water change twice a week should be performed. For a tank smaller than 1 gallon, partial water changes should be done regularly to keep your Betta fish healthy.

Four Steps For Cleaning A Small Betta Fish Tank

Cleaning The Algae. You should leave your Betta in his house and use some specific tools for water changes to clean the tank. Firstly, use an algae magnet cleaner to clean the algae on the aquarium walls. 

Cleaning The Gravel And Remove 15-20% Water  Using a gravel vacuum cleaner to remove all leftover food particles and solid fish waste from the gravel. Remove decorations, and vacuum underneath them as well. If there are live plants in the tank, leave them there and vacuum around. NEVER use soap or other cleansers to clean anything that comes in contact with your Betta!

Maintaining The Filter Simply rinse your filter media (foams, ceramic rings...) in the old aquarium water from the previous step. Sometimes, change the foam pads if they are too old; the ceramic rings can be reused for many years. If you use carbon media in your filter, it should be changed once a month to ensure the efficiency of chemical filtration.

Supplement New Water To The Tank Always adding water conditioner to the tap water prior to use it for your fish or shrimps so that harmful chlorine is completely dissipated. Because temperature fluctuations are very stressful for Bettas, you should raise the temperature of the water to match the temperature in the Betta tank before using it. You can use an aquarium heater to do this work.

[aquaresources]

Neon Tetra: A Complete Guide For Caring And Breeding

Scientific Name: Paracheirodon Innesi

Common Names: Neon Tetra, Neon

Origin: South America

Temperament: Peaceful

Maximum Length: 1.2-1.6 Inches (3-4 Cm)

Lifespan: 8 Years

Minimum Tank: 10 Gallons

Tank Level: Mid To Bottom Dwelling

Temperature: 68-77 °F (20–25 °C)

Water Hardness: 0-18 DGH

PH Range: 4-7.5, Optimal 5.5

Filtration: High

Lighting: Low-Medium

Aeration: Medium.

General Information

The Neon Tetra belongs to the Characiformes family of fish, commonly defined by their fin composition of a fan supported by several bones. This family also includes Cardinal Tetra and piranhas. Neon tetra fish are often seen in home aquariums and add a lot of colors to any fish tanks without the need to add larger fish that produce more waste.

Brilliant colors and ease of care are two factors that have contributed to the popularity of this stunning little tropical aquarium fish. The Neon tetra is native to the black water of the river Amazon and other streams in South America where they live in large schools and feeds on worms, small insects, crustaceans and plant matter. It is commonly bred in parts of Asia or caught wild. The vast majority of the Neon Tetras we find in our home aquariums are imported; very few are bred outside of Asia.

Neon tetra has a spindle-shaped body and a blunt nose. The back is light-blue back and the abdomen is silver-white. It has an iridescent blue horizontal stripe along each side of the body. The stripes run from its nose to the base of the adipose fin. The Neon tetra is also decorated with a red stripe on each side of the body. The red stripes begin at the middle of the body and extend posteriorly to the base of the caudal fin. The side over the blue stripe is a dark olive green shade and the fins are nearly transparent.

Tank Setup

They are active and energetic little swimmers that will dart back and forth almost constantly and require room to move. It is best that Neon Tetras are kept in at least a 10 gallon fish tank although smaller tanks can support this fish providing that they are well filtered.

The ideal aquarium should mimic the natural Neon Tetra habitat. The river Amazon and its tributaries are filled with densely grown plant life and the rivers and streams are shaded by jungle vegetation. Neon Tetras will appreciate a heavy planted tank with plenty of hiding spots and some open area to swim. Floating plants to cut down on the light intensity is recommended.

Water

Very soft and acidic water is preferred, but captive-bred fish will tolerate medium hard and alkaline water with few fluctuations in water parameters. Ideally, a water temperature of 68-77 °F should be maintained and water of middle hardness to soft is recommended.

The tank should be well established as Neon Tetras are very susceptible to water quality changes and ammonia build up. Slow acclimation when adding new Neon Tetras is highly recommended for these sensitive fish. Weekly water changes are also really important as the Neon tetra will not tolerate high nitrate levels.

Substrate

Neon Tetras like and are most beautiful in a tank with a dark substrate. Many people choose to keep Neon Tetras in a planted aquarium and if you are planning on doing this then you will need to start with some good quality aquarium plant substrate. The substrate bed should be 1 to 2 inches deep and covered with some gravel.

Plants

Plants that are commonly used in aquariums such as java moss, java ferns and stem plants such as hygrophila. Adding plants such as these to your tank improves the environment for your neon tetras, Plants also remove nitrates from the water as well as providing a surface for tiny organisms and algae to grow, which many fish enjoy eating.

Lighting

The Neon Tetra likes soothing lighting. Unless you are growing very advanced plants then a cheap fish tank LED light fixture will suffice. Many aquarium tanks have a light already and a Neon Tetra aquarium with hardy and undemanding plants is very easy to choose a suitable light. Remember to turn it off at night, or put it on a timer plug.

! Interesting notes: When Neons are at rest, their vibrant colors are turned off; they return to their normal colors after the light have been on for awhile. A good way to tell if your Neons are stressed or sick is to note if the colors still stay dim after lighting for awhile. If the colors remain drab, the fish is either stressed or sick!

Heating

It is generally necessary to heat your tank and neon tetras prefer water that is between 68 and 77°F (20-25°C). Your heater should match the volume of your tank and should ideally have a thermostat to keep the temperature stable, something which is often more important than the actual temperature itself.

Filtration

Neon tetras, like all other aquarium fish, require clean water. Harmful ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites must all be removed from the water by a good filter. An internal filter or Hang-On-Back filter is the best option. These filters are fairly inexpensive and operate by pumping the water through filter media.

Temperament And Tank Mates

They are non-territorial and schooling fish that is why you need to have ten or more individuals in a tank. They are peaceful fish and can be kept in community aquariums, together with other types of Tetras such as Rummy Nose Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Glowlight Tetras… or different species such as Guppies, Mollies, Swordtails, Corydoras… Neons also do well with some types of loaches such as Yoyo, Zebra, Horseface, or Tiger hillstream loach. Don't add them in aquariums with big or aggressive fish that may see them as food.

Feeding And Fish Foods

Neon Tetras are omnivores and will do well on worms, small insects, and crustaceans. However, they will eat most types of tropical fish foods such as flakes, freeze-dried, or frozen. A tropical flake diet can be supplemented with brine shrimp, bloodworm or daphnia. It also needs plant matter existent in your aquarium.

You should feed them two times a day. Very small meals for each time are recommended because the Neon's stomach is very small and they can only eat a small amount of food. Don't offer them more than the amount they can consume in 2-3 minutes. Uneaten food will compromise the water quality and negatively

[aquaresources]

Cryptocoryne Wendtii ‘Red’

Usage: Midground

Difficulty: Easy

Growth: Slow

Height: 4 –12+ Inches (10 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Low

CO2: Low

Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Mi Oya’ grows fast and produces very broad leaves once adapted to the aquarium environment. The submersed leaves in aquariums are reddish brown while the emersed leaves are green in color. The broad leaves are slightly hammered, but not obvious as Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Tropica’. A cluster of this species snuggling against stones in the midground looks very attractive.

[aquaresources]

Cryptocoryne Wendtii ‘Red’

Usage: Midground

Difficulty: Easy

Growth: Slow

Height: 4 – 8+ Inches (10 – 20+ Cm)

Lighting: Low

CO2: Low

This is a new, red variety of Cryptocoryne wendtii with the usage as Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Tropica’. Easy to grow in any water and at a broad range of temperatures. As with all Crypts, lighting and water chemistry should be kept constant if possible and a nutrient-rich substrate should be provided. This will result in fast growth and dense tufts.

[aquaresources]

Pogostemon Erectus

Difficulty: Medium

Type: Stem

Growth: Medium

Height: 6 – 12+ Inches (15 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Medium

CO2: Medium

Several groups of the Pogostemon erectus make the feel of parts of a coniferous forest in the background. This plant can be grown in both hard and soft water as long as enough free CO2 is supplied. Growth depends strongly on the fertilizing regime, plenty of Nitrogen promotes strong growth. Given daily doses of specialized Nitrogen fertilizers, the growth will be lush, fast and dense.

[aquaresources]

Mayaca Fluviatilis – Bog Moss

Difficulty: Moderate

Type: Stem

Growth:Fast

Height: 6 – 12+ Inches (25 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Medium

CO2: Medium

This strong aquatic plant has needle leaves and is suited to the background location of a small aquarium having a width of 24 inches or below. The extremely soft and flexible stem makes it a delicate stem plant for accent groups. It creates beautiful contrast against darker or broad leaved species. Its terminal bud easily turns whitish when not in good condition.

[aquaresources]

Vallisneria Spiralis – Jungle Val

Usage: Background

Difficulty: Easy

Type: Stem

Growth:Fast

Height: 6 – 12+ Inches (20 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Low

CO2: Low

There are a variety of Vallisneria species from Vallisneria nana for small tanks to Vallisneria gigantea for extra large tanks. These plants are very popular in the aquatic hobby because they don’t have much requirement and is very easy to grow. Vallisneria spiralis is a species of Vallisneria that features narrow and long leaves making it an ideal choice for the background.

[aquaresources]

Eleocharis Montevidensis – Giant Hairgrass

Difficulty: Stolon

Type: Stem

Growth: Easy

Height: 6 – 12+ Inches (15 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Medium

CO2: Medium

This hairgrass develops the same shape of leaves as Eleochalis acicularis (a beautiful carpet plant) but it grows taller beyond 12 inches. Because of this characteristic, this species is suitable to be planted in the background. This hairgrass grows a little slower than Eleochalis acicularis.

This hairgrass as well as other tall hairgrass is usually used in the background of the layout. These produce an atmosphere that resembles a grassy field. With such features, the tall hairgrass is suitable for driftwood layouts that focus on the expression of natural ambience.

[aquaresources]

Cabomba Caroliniana – Green Cabomba

Difficulty: Easy

Type: Stem

Growth: Fast

Height: 6 – 12+ Inches (15 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Medium

CO2: Low

Green Cabomba is a spectacular addition to the background of any aquarium. This plant is an easy-to-care species and not very demanding provided that plenty of light is supplied. If there isn’t enough light, the Cabomba will begin to lose its leaves and decay its stem. Frequently transplanting or trimming the plant can also kill it or cause it to look really bad until it gets stabilized again.

[aquaresources]

Limnophila Sessiliflora – Dwarf Ambulia

Difficulty: Easy

Type: Stem

Growth: Fast

Height: 6 – 12+ Inches (15 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Low

CO2: Low

Limnophila sessiliflora is a great alternative to Camboba because it requires less lighting and is much easier to raise. It grows in almost any aquarium and is definitely a good beginner’s choice. In well-controlled environment within planted aquarium, this plant expands extremely fast and can affect the overall balance of the layout. It is easy to grow, but requires regular trimming to maintain in the layout for a long time.

[aquaresources]

Myriophyllum Tuberculatum – Red Millfoil

Difficulty: Advanced

Type: Stem

Growth: Fast

Height: 8 – 12+ Inches (20 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: High

CO2: High

This Myriophyllum grows red- brown fine leaves in whorls on its dark, hard stem. Red Myriophyllum makes an excellent contrast to all the greens of other aquarium plants and this planted at the rear of your tank will give impressive structure. Its narrow leaves with oxygen bubbles looks fantastic.

It is rather difficult to grow and requires abundant light and CO2 supplementation along with the application of liquid fertilizers. This plant is often damaged when newly arrived to the retail shop. It is advisable to verify the condition of the plant before purchase.

[aquaresources]

Myriophyllum Mattogrossense

Difficulty: Easy

Type: Stem

Growth: Fast

Height: 8 – 12+ Inches (20 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Medium

CO2: Medium

This Myriophyllum is perhaps one of the easiest to use in the planted aquarium among aquatic plants with pinnately-divided leaves. It grows sideways unlike other members of Myriophyllum. It forms a beautiful thicket which can form a smooth gradient outline through trimming. This Myriophyllum is easy to grow but it turns white as its roots start floating out of the substrate or its lower stem hardens over time. Its density can easily be increased by repeated trimming its abundant side shoots.

[aquaresources]

Hygrophila Difformis – Water Wisteria

Difficulty: Easy

Type: Stem

Growth: Fast

Height: 8 – 12+ Inches (20 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Low

CO2: Low

Water wisteria develops pinnate leaves when grown submersed in striking contrast to its oval immersed leaves. The thread-like divisions of its submersed leaves are not uniform; some are deep and some are shallow. A bush of water wisteria is uniquely appealing. This plant propagates very well by growing roots out of its stem. A fast growing plant for beginners.

[aquaresources]

Hygrophila Pinnatifida

Difficulty: Easy

Type: Stem

Growth: Medium

Height: 6 – 12+ Inches (15 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Medium

CO2: Medium

With its unique pinnate leaves, Hygrophila pinnatifida has a great impact on the overall impression of the layout. Another great feature of this plant is its highly epiphytic roots that can be strongly attached to driftwoods and stones just like ferns. The plant’s leaves turn green or red according to the light source.

[aquaresources]

Hygrophila Corymbosa – Temple Plant

Difficulty: Easy

Type: Stem

Growth: Fast

Height: 8 – 12+ Inches (20 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Low

CO2: Low

This large Hygrophila is suitable for large planted aquarium layouts. It is fairly easy to grow and definitely a good choice for beginners. Its very large leaves will remain mostly green and don’t have the tendency to become brown or red under strong light. This plant will have larger stems and grow thick, long roots over time.

[aquaresources]

Ludwigia Repens ‘Rubin’ (Super Red)

Difficulty: Easy

Type: Stem

Growth: Medium

Height: 8 – 12+ Inches (20 – 30+ Cm)

Lighting: Medium

CO2: Medium

Deep red form of L. repens. Leaves smaller than those of the standard form. Provide ample light and a balanced nutrition to cultivate this plant at its optimum.