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Where to eat in sLOVEnia

Ljubljana

TaBar Ribji trg 6 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

Ana in Slon by Ana Roš Nazorjeva ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

Strelec Grajska planota 1 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Outside Ljubjana Hisa Franco by Ana Roš Staro selo 1, 5222 Kobarid, Slovenia

Gric Šentjošt nad Horjulom 24d 1354 Horjul, Slovenia

Piran Fritolin Pri Cantini Prvomajski trg 10, 6330 Piran - Pirano, Slovenia Rostelin Gallusova ulica 2 6330 Piran - Pirano, Slovenia Ribič Baja Gregorčičeva ulica 20 6330 Piran - Pirano, Slovenia Bled

Gostilna and Pizzeria Pri Planincu Grajska cesta 8 4260 Bled, Slovenia Hotel & Restaurant Starkl Cesta svobode 45, 4260 Bled Slovenia Kavarna Belvedere Cesta svobode 18 4260 Bled, Slovenia

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Those photos that not even the best lens can capture are those from a moment well spent. Thank you sLOVEvenia

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Yerba Mat(t)e(rs)

Every South American kid has an embarrassing baby picture of either eaten a massive piece of French baguette or drinking mate. Today, it seems like Yerba Mate is the ready-to-drink, bitter sweet infusion of choice, available in every bodega in New York City. They even became part of The Coca-Cola portfolio in Japan! But, from someone that comes from Uruguay, and drinks it from her crib, let me tell you something: that is not mate.

Mate can be simply described as a bitter infusion of dried leaves from the yerba plant — a powerfully caffeinated hot drink. But there is a lot more to it. It is a ritual. From its meticulously and almost staged preparation method, to its performative and engaging act of drinking, there is a universe of meaning around it.

Firstly, the yerba leaves should be placed inside the mate, the colloquial name of the gourd it's traditionally served in. The leaves should be leaning towards a side, creating a so called “little mountain.” This is important since it will allow the drinker to twist the yerba around to renew its taste after a couple of sips when the flavor starts to mild down. The little mountain, that Uruguayan obsessions the Argentineans don't understand, also leaves the perfect space for the “bombilla,” the metal straw with a filter on its lower end.

The richer part of the mate, is not its taste, it is how you drink it. It is a personal companion. For people from Uruguay, Argentina, and Paraguay, the day does not start until they kick it off with a mate. It is a social excuse to meet and catch up with friends. It is a professional lubricant: you mingle with your co-workers, in the office, passing the mate around. It can also be an ice-breaker, shared among soon to be ex-strangers and ignite a conversation.  

Whether it is due to its unusual preparation or its energetic boost, mate brings people together, and this is the real mate’s matter.

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Dov'è?

PASTA & CIBI

Armando al Pantheon  Salita de' Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Osteria Coppelle Piazza delle Coppelle, 54/55/56, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Trattoria Da Enzo 29 Via dei Vascellari, 29, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina Via dei Giubbonari, 21, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Hostaria Romana  Via del Boccaccio, 1, 00187 Roma RM, Italy

Da Nina a Trastevere  Via dei Vascellari, 44, 00153 Roma RM, Italy

CAFE

Libreria Cafe Bohemian  Via degli Zingari, 36, 00184 Roma RM, Italy

Ex circus Via della Vetrina, 15, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Materia Cafe Via Andrea Provana, 7, 00185 Roma RM, Italy

Caffe Grecco  Via dei Condotti, 86, 00187 Roma RM, Italy

Libera Soon Via del Teatro Pace, 41, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

APERITIVO & BAR Adele Mixology Lounge Hotel Splendide Royal - 8th Floor, Via di Porta Pinciana, 14, 00187 Roma RM, Italy Secret View  NH Collection Via di S. Eufemia, 19, 00187 Roma RM, Italy

The Barber Shop Via Iside, 2, 00184 Roma RM, Italy

Drink Kong Bar Piazza di S. Martino Ai Monti, 8, 00154 Roma RM, Italy 

GELATO

Fatamorgana Gelato  Multiple locations

Mancuso Gelati Italiani dal 1920 Via di S. Vincenzo, 2, 00187 Roma RM, Italy

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Roma Amor

I know this makes no sense in English but if you read Roma backwards, in Spanish it reads Amor. And this is exactly what the eternal city is. 

I went there this year, almost by mistake. I needed to renew my visa and even though all my plans were to nail this paperwork back home, it ended up happening back in the old continent. It was definitely a surprise and something that without me knowing it, was exactly what I needed. First, a pit stop in Madrid, to have coffee, vermouth and tapas with my dearest friend Anita. 24 hours later, l ended up living on this beautiful airbnb 3 blocks away from the Coliseum -holly shit that was unexpected! And then, when coming back home, a 15-hours-lay-over in Iceland became a short yet sweet roadtrip underneath the midnight sun and surrounded by Icelandic mountains and hot springs. Yes, all that in 2 weeks... cray cray, I know.. But, let’s go back to Rome. 

Roma. I arrived and the taxi driver was cursing and complaining about the traffic. Oh what a beauty, just like home! Italia looks so much like Argentina that is terrifying. I love it. 

Walking around Monti, I discovered the neighborhood I wanted to live in. Someday, I'll move back to Europe, and If I end up living in Rome, I will live in Monti. Yes, it will packed with tourists, but what a beauty. Those old houses, I want to fix them and get that empire feeling in my own home. Mine was charming and nooked inside this beautiful old building with a heritage vibe. I was in love. Imagine my future apartment, while I cook and christen those corners with home-made food scents, oven warmth and citric freshness. And of course, some Italian love, wine-not? One day...

Today, I'm surrounded with vespas, big-ass cars for these tiny and narrow streets, yelling locals, mesmerized tourists and a painfully hot summer heat wave (37 degrees, wtf Europe, have mercy!). Even though Im complaining, this was perfect after a humid and grey Montevideo winter, so shut me up.

I checked out Monti, discovered this little restaurant and had what I was craving since last time I was in Torino with my friend Mau: Pasta alla Vongole. It is nothing extraordinary, really, but done in Italy it has a different taste that makes it yummy: mussels, wine, olive oil, garlic and green onions. Delicious freshness in a dish. 

I started walking and rediscovered this city for the third time. I first went in 2000 with my folks, it was intense, it was wonderful. It was my first time in Europe and I remember, even with my young 11 years old, to be hooked, mesmerized and overwhelmed. A couple of years later, in 2006, I went back with my boyfriend at a time, Federico. We were both young and completely clueless, yet we had a wonderful time. I was 17 and he was 19. Thanks Mom and Dad for allowing me to do this crazy ass shit of discovering the world on my own and with a GUY at such young age. So, 16 years later, I return to this city, that stays the same for centuries although I was a complete different person. Yet, each time I turned a corner, I recognized it very randomly and very surprisingly, like if my body had this internal GPS, physical memory and beautiful reminder of already have walked those cobblestones before. No kidding, after 2 days, as usual, I already was going everywhere without any sort of map. And of course, my Italian was mega oiled and super on point. Or at least that was what I thought!

I made my way to the Coliseum, walked down via Cavour and Via Garibaldi, some of the most iconic streets I remember walking down with my parents almost 20 years ago. I headed up to La Fontana di Trevi, one of my favorite spots in the city. It was packed with people, as usual. Yet I made my way to sit around it and enjoy one of the many gelatos I had in town. 

If the city is pretty during daytime, inviting you freshly squeeze arancia juices or espressos, at night time it shines even brighter. The buildings low dimmed lights, the ruins and the avenues just make you stay awake as much as possible so, regardless of how tired you may be already, you keep walking listening to all the secrets these places have to whisper you. I once ended up at the one of the Foros watching a 45 mins amazing mapping projection on the ruins itself while learning the story behind the Augustus Forum. What a treat!

Street musicians, happy tourists and packed restaurants complete the scenery, inviting you to enjoy the dolce far niente. 

In a nut shell, here's my Roma pocket guide: 

Monti is located in the charming and center part of Municipio 1, where you can find most of the touristic attractions: Via dei Fori Imperiale, Fontana di Trevi, Coliseum, Basilica Santa Maria Maggiori and Altare della Patria with the Imperial Museums and the iconic Luppa. 

Trastevere is the Brooklyn of Rome. Restaurants, old bookstores, Cinema Isole and a bunch of venues and bars by the river. On your way there make sure to explore Piazza Navona, Pantheon, and Ponte Sisto. 

Further away, but on the other side of the Tiber River, you will find the Vatican City and the Vatican Museums with the Sixtine Chapel, Castello Saint Angelo and Belvedere del Gianicolo. Check it out during sunset, you are up for a treat.

Termini. If all the roads lead to Rome, in Rome, all the roads lead to Termini. Although not very pretty, it is where the Central Market and the train station Roma Termini is located where you can commute to all the rest of Italy. You will definitely find yourself there once or twice during your stayed.

Pignetto is a bit far from the touristic circuit, and in order to reach there you will experience some hidden wonders too, like where you the Florist Piazza, the Scala Santa and with a little bit of a detour, the terme. This is the new gentrified, less touristy version of Monti, with a iconic pedestrian street packed with restaurants, bars and aperitivo places.

Roma, ci sentiamo presto, sei fantastica!

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Joshua Tree & Desert Wisdom

What started as a 2 people 10-year anniversary celebration ended up on a new-era-welcoming for 3. What a trip! Shewolf pack at its best!

The desert has so much to teach us about the wonders of adaptation that is striking: lush oasis can happen at the most remote areas of the deserting Californian landscape, unique trees and cactus can beautifully thrive on the driest of environments, and the most charming caravan house can be lost in the middle of nowhere, gifting you one of the most wonderful start gazing nights of your life.

We drove avoiding highways, catching up about the last 6 months (and what 6 months these were!), doing some massive shopping for just one night. We did our groceries at Vons near Yucca Valley and got on it, full on: chocolate, chips and dips right right next to the shift stick. God bless America's roadtrips!

As soon as we arrived at Chiquita in Flamingo, 20 mins away from Joshua Tree National Park, we grilled our veggies and sausages under the Californian Sun. There was a beautiful outdoor space, with a grill and a fire pit, a hammock and some unique scenery.

We had a short yet necessary cold water shower (because we couldn't figure out how to turn the heater on) and continue our retreat chilling while getting some sun and dry breeze.

We cooked a pizza and reheated on the fire-pit while putting some yoga mats on the floor with some pillows for our improv living room with the best and biggest TV screen ever available: the unique, desertic Californian sky.

Crazy sunset, shooting stars, confusing planes, howling coyotes and a very extreme meteor combusting were the perfect frame for a unique night when we celebrated 10 years and embraced the upcoming next ones with open arms: we wrote our intentions, and since there was a crescent moon, we used the power of fire to ignite our desires and wishes: we wrote them on a piece of a paper, we said a little pray and watched them burn into stardust which will certainly come back to us with all their magical blessing.

The following morning, a beautiful pinkish sunrise was greeting us while we prepared some breakfast tacos. We hit the town, and there were some interesting findings around to visit and have in mind:

Natural Sisters Cafe - this was our go-to place for healthy snacks, some ice moccha and lattes, as well as a delicious apple-ginger-cucumber juice. Joshua Tree Coffee Co - packed and outdoorsy, this place is your choice if you are looking for local brews and strong nitro

Roadrunner Grab and Go - a nice alternative as a drive-thru (no website) Crossroads Cafe - This place was packed both times we passed it by. We didnt stay for long in town to check it out, but seems like a very cool and recommended place to grab a bite and relax a bit, while having an escape to the relentless desert sun and heat.

Right next to all these, by the main road -Twentynine Palms Highway-, you got the welcome sign to Joshua Tree, the art gallery next to the hipstery souvenir shop, and unique grafitti around very picturesque streets.

We finally made it and did some mild hiking in between the trees and rocks. The park is massive and we drove thru the eastern part of it while getting lost in the dessert.

What a beautiful way to get fulled by love, sisterhood and enery.

Obrigada, Joshua.

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Uruguay Verano 2022

What a Summer this has been - nothing to envy to 1967, since it could perfectly be described as the Summer of Love. I felt in love with my country again, with its nightlife, with its restaurants and venues, with its people. Falling in love, in summer, roadtripping, going to the beach, sleeping and having sex on car seats, what else can you ask for? Long live Uruguayan Summers, those who amend, fix and make your heart pump love again.

De Guarda, Quesos con Personalidad Dr. Joaquín Requena 1216 - Cordon Soho Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

The Lab Multiple locations Bites&Kms reccomended: Av. Dr. Luis Alberto de Herrera 1057 esquina Echevarriarza - Pocitos Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Cafe Misterio Calle Costa Rica, esquina Rivera – Carrasco Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Bruta Luis de la Torre 818 - Punta Carretas Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

El Fondito Pedro Bustamante 1222 - Buceo Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Costanero Hotel Rbla. República del Perú 1371 - Pocitos Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay Manzanar Carlos F. Sáez 6463 - Carrasco Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Raymunda Luis de la Torre 730 - Punta Carretas Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Arlechino Juan Gorlero - Punta del Este Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

Late Parada 7 de la Mansa esquina Av. Los Alpes - Punta del Este Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

Imarangatu Rbla. Claudio Williman parada 7 - Punta del Este Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

Muelle 3 Rbla. Claudio Williman 22 - Punta del Este Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

Las Carcavas By Lavecchia Laguna Garzon - Garzon Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

Tierra de Osos Obligado 1317 - Pocitos Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Parador El Arroyo Av. Juan María Pérez y Fuentes - Ciudad de la Costa Departamento de Canelones, Uruguay

Escaramuza Dr. Pablo de María 1185 - Cordon Soho Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Candy Bar Durazno 1402 - Palermo Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Petisco Av. Principal S/N, al lado de la Iglesia - La Pedrera Departamento de Rocha, Uruguay

La Cafe no website Izaguirre 21 - La Pedrera Departamento de Rocha, Uruguay

La Balsa Ruta 10 km 191 - El Caracol Departamento de Rocha, Uruguay

La Linda 18 de Julio esquina Montevideo - Manantiales Departamento de Maldonado, Uruguay

La Farmacia Cafe Cerrito 550 - Ciudad Vieja Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Pacharan San José 1168 - Centro Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Imigrantes MVD Juan Paullier 1252 - Cordón Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

La Cantina del 25 Dr José Luis Bado 3186 - Pocitos Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay La Esquina del Mundo Carlos F. Sáez 6695 - Pocitos Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

El Brecha Aquiles R. Lanza 1201 - Centro Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Casa Fauno Dr Luis Piera 2031 - Palermo Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

Misión Comedor Dr. Pablo de María 1015 - Palermo Departamento de Montevideo, Uruguay

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Gracias Bushwick por tanta vida <3

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Bo, tranqui

Lagom is that perfect middle ground between not too much, not too little that the Nordics, specially Swedes, use to refer to that balance. Saudades is that nostalgic feeling that merges longing, missing and love, that is hard to translate from Portuguese, particularly attached to a Lisbon feeling. And I will dare to say Tranqui, is what defines Uruguay.

Tranqui is a state of mind.

It can be translated as something chill, relaxed. But it conveys a way bigger picture. It transmits calmness, it is reassurance, it is encouragement, or just a little sweet and tiny caring wish.

Tranqui is a stroll by the beach, a rambla run, a sunset with sea scent and waves sound, a mate round, an indie playlist, a friendly, coffee talk or an overdue catch up-beer. Tranqui can mean alpargatas, a rainy Wednesday afternoon, or a stolen nap. It invites you, never forces you, to slow down, to appreciate the moment, to carefully think your next move.

Not only is state of mind, sometimes wrongly considered as slow or boring, but a way of life. You can achieve greatness with a Tranqui method. Tranqui is a way, a unique style of living. It is ingrained in Uruguayans and is hard to convey or to put into words. By no means time goes slower here, but it feels a bit lighter by sharing it with mind-like friends and people who surround you within the same vibe.

This does not kill ambition nor drive. It just invites to rethink it in a healthier, dialectic way that promotes a more peaceful lifestyle as a result.

Each time I come back *home* is different. This one was no exception. And I believe this was the greater outcome: starting the final countdown of less than two weeks to go back, I wish to take some tranquilidad with me. Tranqui in spirit. Eager of tranqui-ness whenever the frenzy and insanity of NY kicks in. Im packing some tranqui hugs, the most delicious tranqui kisses, tranqui talks and mimos, some outstanding tranqui friendly faces that more and more, inspire me with greatness and love, a tranqui pace of roadway driving and scenery, and most importantly, tranqui sea breezes and living breathes. I guess home is where the tranqui is.

Feb 19, 2022. Make a Wish.

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Reframing

My friend Gaby works with steel framing. She is an architect and a painter. She is also my first friend. 31 years ago, we met and we've been choosing each other ever since. We don't see each other often - yet when we do, it feels like time does not pass by.

I am always impressed by how much she has accomplished by building amazing structures and a career, but mostly building and crafting herself into a wonderful woman I admire. She is delicate, smart, nice. She has a strong foundation and a clear finish, just as her design style. And she has the weird and unique skill of unarmed me and bring me to debris with words. Gracias Melli - you are always a beautiful reminder of who I am and where I am from.

This time, Gaby showed me her favorite den in Rocha. We were suppose to do it together - we are planning this scape for more than 2 years, last time we postponed a Valizas trip which she ended up doing with her partner and now Lynette, my Singaporean-Newyorker friend joined us for the ride. It was wonderful to re-frame Uruguay from their perspective: a local fan and a newly rookie, which together collide my two lifestyles and inner personas.

Uruguay keeps surprising me. Each time even a little bit more. I am not sure if it is because Im getting older, because I am missing it and I get home-sick, because there is a new party in government, because it really has flourished, or all of the above are correct. Still with COVID leftovers, I was able to appreciate the tranqui way of life I crave and miss so much. For the past 9 years Ive been living in cosmopolitan cities, even in Stockholm which was the most "lagom" one of them all, was still huge for a villager like me. So it is rewarding to come and unplug for a bit, eat amazing food, stroll over massive and empty beaches, and the most wonderful things of them all are the breathtaking sunsets. As a recent conversation I had a while ago, in a sunsets competition, Uruguay is world-champion. Im seriously thinking that maybe Uruguay has a place for me. That maybe I needed to leave in order to fully arrive home.

“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently, too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.” - Terry Pratchett

La Pedrera/ Punta Rubia is a wonderful well kept secret. A few kms away from la Paloma, is a very low key yet perfectly diverse and with a wide offer of services ready to host you for the perfect getaway.

A few Bites&KMs reccos are: Petisco, Club Social La Pedrera, La Cafe, where you can find delicious seafood tapas, a great national wine selection, a beautiful terrace with a view, artisanal desserts and specialty coffee.

Thank you Rocha, Gaby and Uruguay, for reminding me what tranqui stands for and how much I crave and need it.

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Ten Thousands Waves

Imagine all the spiritual vibes from New Mexico. Visualize its desertic mountains shaped by a golden sunset. Now, add a bit of Japanese flair. Smell the orchids. Listen to the hollow bamboo woods welcoming you as an angel caller hanging on wooden bridges, that help you cross little ponds full of koi fishes. The steam of the thermal water caresses your skin while the cold of the desert starts to fall upon you during an October eve.

Yes, that place exists. That place is real. Welcome to Ten Thousands Waves. This lodge, spa and restaurant is a unique gem in Santa Fe, just a few mins away from the city center.

There's a beautiful izanami restaurant that serves izakaya-style small plates with exceptional sake in a casual atmosphere. And there we went to celebrate Suse's birthday. Next time, we will stay overnight and enjoy the snow outside, while drinking sake or champagne in our robes! We had a grilled miso bass, some roasted japanese mushrooms with bean sprouts, tamari, yuzu, butter shoyu, picked garlic and scallions, a delicious colorado lamb chop and an open fusion elote

Kampai my dearest Irmã!

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Majestic Milano

Milano is elegant, magnificent, represents in full display the Italian splendor. Without Torino's charm, Milano sets the trend and bar up high when it comes to architecture, schools, tech industry, fashion, packaging and design and conquers the mesmerized eye of those who visit her with an edgier approach.

High-end, cosmopolitan venues, as well as local trattorias create the intricate puzzle of this European capital. I arrived after a wild run in Principe Real Station in Genova, while checking out all the landscape change between Liguria, Piemonte and Lombardia from sunny beaches, snowy mountains to cloudy cities. On arrival, the gloomy yet impressive Milano Centrale welcomed me to my last spot on this Italian adventure. Its art-deco facade and design reminds people of its splendor and importance: it is the 8th busiest in Europe.

After getting my negative PCR I awaited for Ana at Greta's place, my airbnb hostest. Once together, we went straight to the city's core: Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. This was the coldest night of my stayed, yet in Fashionland, we couldnt be shy. We geared up in our fanciest suits and hit the town. We went around the main Piazza, while checking out the subtle Christmas lightening (I would see for myself how two days later, a winter market and a massive display of ornaments and decoration would overtake the city center) while catching up on my Genovese adventures. We revamped our luck by turning on our heels on the iconic tile bull at the Galleria. Let me explain further: under the central dome, there are four mosaics portraying the coat of arms of the four capitals of the Kingdom of Italy, today known as Torino, Firenze, Roma and Milano. Legend says that if a person spins around three times with a heel on the bull's balls from Torino's coat of arms this will bring good luck to the pain perpetrator. 2022, dont you dare to prove me wrong - I have the Kingdom of Torino's backing me up!

The Galleria is majestic, massive and beautiful. Full of bookstores, patisseries and high-end fashion stores, is the compulsory stop for whomever visits Milano. Not only it is one of the oldest glass-covered galleries in Europe, but it is also a central meeting point and luxury shopping venue. Inside you will find the original Prada store, Gucci and Louis Vuitton, just to name a few.

It is extremely wonderful and personally, I enjoyed it and loved it much more than the Duomo itself. Conceived by the Italian architect Giuseppe Mengoni, it was designed in 1861 and finally built between 1865 and 1877. I guess I've seen impressive churches before, but this approach to gallerias, one that highlights public areas of entertainment, in the main square of one of the wealthiest Italian Monarchies, while generating a meeting and gathering venues between the palace and the church was truly unique. Since it couldnt haven been in any other way, Dutchess Ana and the Princess Daniela, decided to treat themselves to Cafe Cracco, one of the iconic places decorating one of this Galleria's main corners, right in front of Mondadori bookstore. We had two cappuccinos and a delicious pistachio cheesecake - what a delight!

Later on, we checked out more and more beautiful bookstores. We got lost finding the iconic Teatro alla Scalla, which is very somber and plain on the outside, with a very clean facade, but apparently is magical on the inside. There was a line to see a show, so I guess the people kind of support that statement. We had the most delicious dinner at Taberna San Tomaso (Via S. Tomaso, 5). We had a scrumptious cotoletta alla milanese with fries and risotto osobucco to share, and toasted to the last chapter so far (more to come, Anita!) with some delicious red wine. We wont deny nor confirm we had dinner with Stanley Tucci. Not really sure if we had some dessert or not, but we definitely had a digestif by the piazza, at Terrazza Aperol at the Mercado del Duomo, not the best terrace near by but definitely the one with the best marketing. Besides, if you want to try any kind of aperol, this is your place to go. We enjoyed our terrace view and complete the photo book we started at the Galleria.

The following day we kicked it off early on with some croissants at Milano Centrale and said goodbye to episode 7 of Dani and Ana Looking forward to season 8, amiga!

Milano is well known for its vast and extensive museum landscape. You can create a whole itinerary with a different museum for each day if you want. I only focused on two: Cenacolo Vinciano and Museo della Cultura.

Some days ago, I booked my place to attend to Cenacolo Vinciano, the exclusive area of the Santa Maria della Grazie Church where L'ultima Cena de Leonardo Da Vince is being displayed. It's a massive mural that survived WWII, a bomb falling exactly right next to it yet it is still standing, and after many restorations is now being able to excite art fans, Christians and tourists alike. Reservation is required since access is only granted for groups of 30 people at a time, with a visit that last 30 mins.

I took the metro towards Milano Porta Genova and had an espresso at Osteria del Binari (Via Tortona 1/3) to later head over to Museo della Cultura, MUDEC. Although I wanted to check out the Disney's storytelling exhibit, L'arte da raccontare storie senza tempo, I was greatly surprised by Milano Globale: il mundo visto da qui, the recently renewed, permanent exhibit that portrays the global influx, the cultural nuances and the constant exchange between countries, continents and people that happened in Milano. From the colonial transactions between Europe, Americas, Africa and Asia to the Italian boom of the 50s and 60s, to the current reconfiguration of Italian society embracing migration and redefining what being Italian looks like, dresses like, produces ad consumes in the XXI century.

I headed back towards Parco Sempione, very closed to the Castello Sforzesco, and had lunch at a local venue, L'angolo di casa, I randomly discovered it and had some delicious pasta alla vongole. What an amazing double discovery: not only this place had great service and food, but also finding hidden vongole on what I thought was plain pomodoro pasta was pure perfection.

Back in Piazza Duomo, enters Luigi. This sweet, charming Calabrese took me around town, invited me some coffee at B Cafe, showed me around the street artists and the Naviglio area. We toasted with a local beer at Luca e Andrea to finally take a stroll to Nonna's pasta class.

I've never done an Airbnb Experience before, but since Bruna's Master Class, the bar has been set up quite high. This class included an aperitivo, while we learned how to make authentic tiramisu, tagliatelle and ravioli. In my house, cooking is a religion. La mia Nona, (yes, with just one N) cooked deliciously, and so did il mio Nono, and my parents. Each one with their own speciality, great decisions, awful conversations, terrible discussions, grief sessions and joyful announcements have always happened around a set table. And preparing it, was also part of a greater ritual. So, I barely went for the authentic recipe, I mostly went to experience something that resembles home. I wasnt there for the food: I was there as a homage to my own Nona, and this experience really delivered. Bruna was working together with her souschef, her grand daughter, in her beautiful house she got with lire back in the day by Parco Solari. Daughter of an Italian diplomat, she travelled the world and experienced different cuisines while working on the tourism industry. She retired and decided to share the kitchen family secrets with the world. Bruna spoke perfect English and hosted 3 hours of a charming example of Italian hospitality.

I met Mau and checked out Navigli. We went to MAG for a delicious drink. This is an elegant cocktail bar option, with a relaxed atmosphere and they truly serve one of the best cocktails in the city.

Went home, had some panettonino with tea, and got ready for the next morning. Visited Gelsomina and had the most outstanding breakfast treat: the Maritozzo. Originally from Lazio, it is a sweet bread flavored with orange zest and panna. A fascinating flavor and sponginess, I believe this is how angels' kisses probably taste and feel like. Bites and KMs intel: It was tradition that the boyfriend and future husband (maritozzi: husband, from there takes its name this sweet bread) gave the girlfriend this sweet as a sign of his love and also used to hide a ring inside. The sugar glaze symbolized two trapped hearts. I think it would be perfect if someone asked me to marry this sweet… In fact, I would fall down after the first bite and be happy forever and ever.

I checked out the parks and walked around town, to finally made it to Gardine dell Orto de Brea, where I highly recommend to book in advance and check out the Pinacoteca, located at Università degli Studi di Milano. This is where Edward Munch's The Kiss is displayed. Last but not least, I had some well deserved pizza at Napiz (Viale Vittorio Veneto 30) while enjoying a bit of karaoke before closure.

Had another coffee with Luigi at Caffineria, the perfect blend between a winery or a vineria in Italian, and a cafe, before heading to Beltrade Cinema to watch the premiere of E stata la mano di dio.

I run back to the airbnb to rest for a bit and get some warmer clothes before walking to Isola, a gentrified, cool neighborhood 15 mins away from my area. Went to meet Sandro and Stefania at Frida, where great tapas, great drinks, great times happened to occurred. It was fascinating to see how everything yet little changed between us, catching up after exactly 5 years. Grazie dear amici! Once again, a glance of Singapore with Italian flair, courtesy of 2017-18 Ogilvy tenure.

Had an ophthalmologist appointment that evening and it was absolutely wonderful to realized I was wearing the wrong glasses all along. The sight still hurts, but the possibility of seeing life back in technicolor was a relief. And this trip was the best medical prescription. Grazie Dr. Schipani!

The following morning, I woke up early to pack and had a nice coffee at BiancoLatte. I continued my walk to the Montenapoleone area, checked out the high-end stores, got mesmerized at the local fashion, went back to the city center, explored the Galleria and the Duomo while listening to Bella Ciao one last time before heading to Malpensa. Got some goodies at Dispensa Emilia. These were called Tigelle, and are thin, 10cm round breads from the Apennines in the Modena area of Emilia-Romagna that resembles bocadillos from Spain. Italy told me goodbye with this wonderful and delicious surprise, and she knows, it was just the cherry on top for me to say not goodbye but Ci vediamo presto.

[bites-kms]

Cinque Terre - Heaven on Earth

"Silenzio Bruno!" is how Alberto teaches Luca to dominate his fears, either while jumping off cliffs or whenever he dares to ride a Vespa for the first time, encouraging him to be brave, and seize whatever he sets up his mind on. Disney-Pixar movie Luca is one of the latest film from these studios up to date, located in the imaginary town of Portorosso, which is the result of the merge of two actual places by this wonderful area I recently had the pleasure to explore: Monterroso and Porto Venere, both being part of the Italian Riviera area of Liguria.

Cinque Terre is a coastal area by the northwest of Italy. It lies by the west of La Spezia Province, and comprises five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The coastline, the five villages, and the surrounding hillsides are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Silenzio Dani! This encouraging shout-out was exactly what Italy taught me. I took the train with destination Riomaggiore, but as things turned out, I didn't commute in time and ended up stranded for an hour in the town of La Spezia. I was a bit worried that I wouldn't have enough time to see what I wanted, but this pit-stop was exactly what I needed. I had a little espresso and enjoyed the peace surrounding this train station. I wrote myself a letter, and I appreciated the lemon and orange trees that covered me with delightful shade, keeping me safe from the Mediterranean sun, with a beautiful and citrusy scent. Let's remember this was late November, so being able to enjoy a 20+ degree celsius day in Cinque Terre, with little to no tourists due to COVID, was a gift not many people can enjoy.

I crossed the Atlantic hoping to go to the beach in the first place, seeking for the sun, without realizing it was rainy season in Southern Italy (it only rained just a few drops over two mornings during my whole stayed - I was very blessed) so being able to discover this coastline in my bikini was truly amazing. There are many ways to enjoy and travel around this land, although the easiest one is to purchase the day train pass which allows you to get on the train in a hop-on/hop-off modality with the possibility of accessing all five villages. I decided not to do all of them, but instead to focus on three: Riomaggiore, Manarola and Monterrosso.

When arriving in Riomaggiore, I had that wonderful and oh-so-difficult-to-describe sensation of being grateful and in awe at the same time. I always associate it with happiness, and with my most pure state of self: opened in wonder, receptive, marveled at the beauty of this world, hugging life with open arms and a big smile.

I could see many -if not all- the other people that started to stroll those same streets as me were also experiencing something similar with good reason, it was outstanding. Riomaggiore's natural bay and rough pier are its main characteristics. One can walk its steep hills and check out the beautiful views either from shore, the sea rocks, or from the houses on top of its ladders. There were few boats docked, and I was very close to informally ask one of those sailors for a ride, but I didn't have any cash with me (note to self and Bites&Kms advice: regardless of the financial state of the country you are visiting, always carry some cash with you). So, I found this wonderful rock where I sat for a while and breathed in all the wonders from the Mediterranean, Riomaggiore style.

I walked the hidden alleys, I found the famous yet closed road "via dell'amore" or Love Street, the beautiful sigh-seeing road -which reminds me of Sydney's Bondi to Manly walk- that connects Riomaggiore with Manarola ("via dell'amore e chiusa!" they told me, ma cazzo eh!, what a sense of humor, Universe, really) and took some iconic photos.

After my immersive experience, I thought it was time to make it to Manarola (in my mind, this one was the most beautiful one, and had a famous restaurant with an outstanding sunset view of the bay waiting for me). On arrival, this village didn't disappoint. It was greenly blue, shockingly gorgeous, with a delicate touch. I was so, so, so happy. There were more people at this village, so I knew I was at the right place. I started walking up hill to check out the view, and it was also on my way to this well-known restaurant. The walk-up is charming and tiring, yet when you are running short of breath, you need to think twice whether this is due to your physical condition or to the breathtaking views. When in doubt, lean towards both. The restaurant was closed, but instead of being bumped about it, I found a picnic site and made the utter, most perfect, private lunch I ever experience. This picnic site was located on a natural terrace overlooking the city, ironically on top of the closed restaurant. And no one, absolutely no one was there. Enters Dani.

I went down to this wonderful osteria I saw called La Cantina Zio Bramante, and pretty much asked for everything able to be packed - or per portare in via- from the menu. I asked for a prosciutto, pomodoro, fresh mozzarella and olive oil paninni, and an anchovies, pomodoro, olive oil, rosemary and sea salt focaccia. Then, they had a delicious lemon tart for dessert and I purchased a bottle of local Cinque Terre white wine. I was ready. I went up hill as fast as I possible could, got rid of pretty much all my clothes but the bikini, and played O Sole Mio and Nessum Dorma by Luciano Pavarotti in repeat. I was in heaven.

The sun was caressing my skin, the fresh and simple flavors of my improvised menu were creating an unforgettable feast in my mouth. A Mediterranean breeze was welcoming me once again to Italy, to the land of pleasure and joy, the birds were chirping and the waves were crushing. The wine was popping, my smile was being drawn and the heart was pounding heavily to the beat of life.

It was by far, one of the best lunch moments I ever have in my life. I was happy and I at that moment I knew, making the decision to make this trip was exactly what I was in need of .

Given its location by the Mediterranean, seafood is plentiful in this local cuisine. Monterosso's anchovies are a local delicacy, with a Protected Designation of Origin status from the European Union. The mountainsides of the Cinque Terre are heavily terraced and are used to cultivate grapes and olives. This area, and the whole Liguria region, is known for its pesto, a sauce made from basil leaves, garlic, salt, olive oil, pine nuts, with pecorino and parmesan cheese.

Cinque Terre grapes are used to produce two locally made wines. The eponymous Cinque Terre and the Sciachetrà are made using Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes. Both wines are produced by the Cooperative Agricoltura di Cinque Terre, located between Manarola and Volastra. Other DOC producers are Forlini-Capellini, Walter de Batté, Buranco, Arrigoni.

In addition to wines, other popular local drinks include grappa, a brandy made with the pomace left from winemaking, and limoncino, a sweet, creamy liqueur made from lemons. It is served chilled after meals and often used in the preparation of desserts.

After this god's feast, the heavenly experience and unforgettable memory, I decided to check out the little villa. I went up (of course) the other hills and ended up by the local church, after exploring the local cemetery. Of course I said my prayers and lighted a candle up for all these blessings. Before this trip, I was drawn in sorrow and sadness, and I was lost. I think this moment in particular helped me reconnect with myself and find my course. It brought me to terms to what I want, with how I want it, and how to enjoy the process of pursuing it while being faithful to myself. Grazie Cinque Terre, for grounding me back to terre, for inspiring me to look up, for breathing in acceptance, for feeding my soul.

Last but not least, I went to Monterrosso. Its funny, throughout most of my life in Montevideo, I lived by Acevedo Diaz, by the corner of Monterrosso. So, I literally was finding my way back home. Monterrosso is particularly beautiful because it has a tiny beach area. It was sunset time and I was already sold on the idea of spending it by the beach. If only I had a change of clothes, I would had jumped in - I was just extra cautions of not getting sick in the middle of my trip (I still had all Milan ahead of me, and let's not forget a PCR and customs checking my temperature while arriving to the US). Hence, just my feet should suffice for now. Im not worried, I know I will be back.

I had a little aperitivo before heading to Boccadasse to have a delicious dinner with Mau. I ordered my first negroni sbagliato, another ritual I was missing, to finally set my course straight at Bar Gio 5 Terre. I had a pizza, I toasted to the good memories and the even greater ones that are about to happen. Salute! Grazie per tutti, questa via puo essere chiusa, ma il cuore e sempre aperto.

[bites-kms]

Genova, alleys of beauty

"If you want to catch a glimpse of Italy as it has been lived for centuries, rather than simply something that looks good on postcards, come to Genova". — Nicholas Walton

Genova reminds me a bit of Barcelona. In every corner of the streets, in every little alley, you just need to direct your gaze to the sky to notice facades of sumptuous buildings that you won’t notice if you are distracted and, if you are curious enough, you will find that everywhere there is something that will catch your eye and will leave you speechless. After a beautiful drive through Langhe Region, a delicious and traditional Piamontese lunch in L' Aromatario, a beautiful osteria and B&B in the lost, charming town of Neive, we arrived just in time for sunset to beautiful Genova with my dear Mau. We got lost on their maze-like streets, trying to find a hidden parking, almost like a compulsory welcoming ritual. And then, the fun part of them all, was climbing the steep hills (dont be like me, bring a backpack), carrying my big-ass suitcase, walking down the prostitutes alley, to finally end up in a 4 walk-up, almost 5 flights apartment, covered in unique postcards. What a workout!

Stefano's and Sarah's apartment was a great found gem. Strategically located a few blocks away from Porto Antico, 2 blocks from the Heritage World Site Via Garibaldi where the famous Palazzo Rosso is, and very close by University of Genova, each little corner of this Airbnb was a treasure to be discovered: from movie seats instead of couches, to amazing quotes in the bathroom and unique clocks spread out across the kitchen.

We decided it was time for a Genovese focaccia, a tradition one should not miss while visiting this Ligurian coast city. We barely made it to sunset and it was a beautiful way to discover the port side. A bit windy, a bit cold, but perfectly gorgeous. We later got lost - it is the thing to do, by the way - and ended up by Genova's Duomo or Catedrale di San Lorenzo, patron of the city, to later wonder around the city's main arteries to just keep exploring and check out the different piazzas and buildings around the old town. Piazza Ferrari is the city's heart and between wonderful buildings and fountains one can experience a glance of this city's past glamour and history. Keep your eyes upwards while you walk through the covered walkway via XX Settembre, the main shopping street born in this piazza; you will notice wonderful ceilings and you will see the characteristic colors of the ancient Genova nobility everywhere: black and white.

Moreover, Palazzo Ducale - today's Genova's Museum and Teatro Carlo Felice are by the piazza's sides, framing a beautiful Genova Center ready to mesmerize you. Caruggi is the word in the Genoese dialect that describes the “peculiar and narrow covered walkways and shady alleys of lots of cities and little towns of the Italian Riviera” and exactly by one of those caruggi is where we have the most delicious apperitivo of them all at Il Mugugno, by Via Luccoli. I was excited to taste another Aperol Spritz yet the waitress surprised us with an unexpected and magnificent feast: mortadella, salami, burrata with pomodori sechi, fried ravioli, pancetta, another kind of cheese, fries and probably something else I cant remember. What a wonderful night, drinking with a very good friend, honoring our nonni, enjoying the most delicious cold cuts, appreciating the good and small things in life. I bet a tear or two went down, but hell, that was how we watered the fertile soil of Italian memories. Salutte, amica!

Not only those tiny and curvy caruggi were extremely picturesque, but most of them also had some messages like imagina, credi, memoria. Im not sure if it was due to the Christmas spirit or if it is an ongoing decor, but it made them even more charming.

The following morning, we woke up quite early since I was taking a train to Cinque Terre and Mau was working so we decided to share a short and sweet breakfast around our place: some compulsory cappucino and pastries and off we go. We both have our priorities quite on point so, as soon as we met again that evening, a dinner date was taking place.

Mau surprised me with a short ride to Boccadasse, a near-by fishing villa, to Creuza da Mar, a traditional Ligurian restaurant by a cute little beach and the town's Church. We had some delicious grilled octopus, fresh with with smashed potatoes, pomodori and pinoni (pine nuts), as well as some pasta. We married them with house red wine, a Ligurian treat, and wrapped it with some amaro with orange. It was wonderful. We kept thinking about where and when we will meet again (it ended up being in Milano 2 days later) yet, we were ok with no the no-plan-plan. It always turns out beautifully for us, so we wont jinx it. 2022, we are ready for you! Another one for the books!

We arrived to Stefano's to find out a message with a late-nightcap recco: go down the infinite stairs (again) to find the secret speak-easy called Malkovich, literally 3 mins away from where we were. I lost Mau to the bed and the warm bath, but I couldnt resist finding a secret bar with my rusty Italian on my last night at Genova, after being mesmerized by the beauty of Cinque Terre and having such a wonderful day. So, there I went. One should look out for Groove Hamburger, since there is no sign about the bar, and just casually ask for a drink at Malkovich. Of course I played the lost and charming tourist card, implying that I would be fluent in Italian with a couple of more drinks and even though it was 45mins to closure time, they let me in for one last round. A beautiful, charming wine cellar behind the burger kitchen was the perfect den to do so. Next morning, the red Ferrari of Bites&Kms went out for one last round, checking out Via Garibaldi and Piazza Ferrari. It was rainy and extremely cold. But what a lovely feeling being able to have a delicious breakfast at a charming little cafe by only €1.50. It felt weird to finally be by myself after so much love during these past days. But not for long: 20 mins after my expected arrival at Milano, Ana will be joining me for one last round.

But I yet had one more thing to taste in Genova: the real pesto Genovese, and for that, there is no better place than Trattoria da Mario, by Salita di S. Paolo, 28, a few meters away from Stazione Principe Real. I was soooo sorry I got confused with all my previous day train schedules that I needed to run back to take my train and left half of my plate and house wine. That god's treat was only €7, a big and delicious trofie pesto pasta dish and wine, can you believe it? But what a lovely experienced it was: Mario's was a unique place, the real deal and traditional place, where I happened to be the only woman and obviously the only foreigner (ok, I accept my Italian passport wasnt good enough for the 120% made in Genova sailors) and both, Mario and two other waiters were taking orders like crazy. Hungry sailors, fishermen, working men, and I assume some proper prostitutes frequent this Trattoria from time to time, making this a gold mine for Mario. Free bread basket, an old lady pouring the wine, Mario making speed math on the fly to charge the tables, greasy silverware and very loud guest was as real as it gets, Italy as its best. I was in love. There was no more room, everything was taken, communal tables were happening, disregarding green pass and covid. It felt like good old times. I knew I was on the right place. And damn that food was delicious. I am still hurt for not being able to finish it, but Milan and Ana were waiting!

Dont worry Mario, Ill be back!

[bites-kms]

Caruggi - In Genovese: “peculiar and narrow covered walkways and shady alleys of lots of cities and little towns of the Italian Riviera”.

[bites-kms]

A year ago, on Memorial day, we headed to PR. We thought we were 4, we happened to be 5 all along! Fonsi, watch out, despacito #2 is coming!