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The Importance of Diversity inside the Fashion Industry

In the United States, injustice is common in our system, where hegemony rules over a society and out lash against opposing groups.  And many times, it goes unaddressed or unchanged for way longer than it should. This is why it’s important to maintain cultural equity in the art world and to challenge inequities to make change happen.  In order to have a healthy society, there needs to be equal access to inspire creativity for young prominent artists (cultural equity).

There are many reasons as to why cultural equity is so important, an example of this comes from a Swedish retailer called Hennes and Mauritz (H&M).  On 7 January 2018, the retailer was criticized for putting a dark-skinned child model in a green sweatshirt saying “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle.”  Soon after, social media users accused H&M of being racist for comparing a comparing the dark-skinned boy to a monkey (Bjerre).

The controversy was immediately picked up by the media worldwide the next day, despite the sweatshirt being only published in the United States and the United Kingdom website.  Being so exposed, H&M was forced to give a public apology.  Soon after, removing the ad and replacing it with a generic photo of the sweatshirt, now no longer available for purchase in several countries, including the United States. However, consumers moved away from the retailer due to the controversy, refusing to buy anything from the company (Bjerre).

By the 18th, H&M as a response to the controversy, explained that they would hire more people of diversity so as to prevent a similar incident from happening again.  A display as to what extent as to what consumers will go to when a company displays negative aspects in their products.  And this shows the increasing importance of diverse leadership in the workplace (Bjerre).

A similar incident was brought upon the Italian luxury brand Gucci after the company released a turtleneck sweater that resembled blackface.  The black turtleneck featured a pull-up collar with a cutout mouth and bright red lips. According to the brand’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele, it was meant to be an homage to the flamboyant Australian performance artist and designer Leigh Bowery (Wharton).

However, it only spurred on the intensive backlash with not just consumers, but celebrities as well. Director Spike Lee used his social media to urge followers to boycott the brand.  Musician 50 Cent posted himself setting fire to a Gucci T-shirt on Instagram.  And in the same month, singer Katy Perry removed shoes from her collection as shoppers said it was similar to blackface.  Then Gucci collaborator Dapper Dan tweets, “There cannot be inclusivity without accountability. I will hold everyone accountable,” inviting the company’s chief executive to meet with him in Harlem (Wharton).

“A mea culpa and quick withdrawal of the offensive products is the right short-term strategy,” said professor at New York University’s Stern School of Business and a luxury branding strategist Thomai Serdari, who later states that the long-term strategy should be hiring a more diverse workforce.  However, it requires the company and others to have a sit down with their executives to convince and reconsider a more inclusive hiring strategy but in an honest and authentic way (Wharton).

Both Thomai Serdari and marketing professor of Lehigh University Ludovica Cesareo explain the headlines go deeper than just the momentary outrage (the two professors visited the Knowledge@Wharton radio show on Sirius XM to discuss the issues facing the fashion houses).  It is an example for up and coming companies to understand the global market and consumer values.  Especially now, where the generation is more diverse and do not tolerate cultural bias that were so evident in past marketing campaigns.  As Cesareo explains, “Advertising speaks to the current times, especially from a cultural perspective.  Through the advertisements that brands put out, but also the products that they design and decide to sell in the market, brands are taking stands on certain social issues.”  And Serdari agreed, stating that these companies and others need to understand how much influence they have and what they should put out on the market.  Or, at least, try not to offend a part of American culture (Wharton).

Americans would initially speculate that the problem is not cause by cultural insensitivity, but due to a lack of awareness of American culture, as Gucci and H&M are European companies.  “But that’s no excuse,” says Cesareo. “A lot of these brands are unaware of some of aspects of American culture and heritage, which by no means is a way of justifying them. It is simply that they just don’t do their research…  Gucci should have been much more sensitive to this issue and should have done its research before putting out a product like that.” And Serdari expresses her concerns, stating that the research from these companies would only be superficial because “they only stop at a certain point, whenever it is convenient or based on whatever resources they have. But to have people who are diverse or who have a better grasp of the culture within the market that they want to enter is what is going to make them more successful in the future.”  (Wharton).

Mrs. Serdari explain how creative directors have absolute power over the designs made in these corporate fashion houses and that there is no check or balance when issues pop up. There should have been more diversity in the workplace and the current employees should have been able to express their opinions without fear of retribution.  She also states that “there needs to be diversity at the high-up level of executives, and not just young designers … but people with voice and power.” And Cesareo agrees that Gucci “should have been much more sensitive to this issue and should have done its research before putting out a product like that.”  (Wharton).

Although, despite the backlash, they say that research shows that these brands will most likely not experience any kind of long-term loss because they have loyal customers that are willing to forgive them if they take particular steps in the right direction (Wharton).

Later, that December, Prada apologized for releasing a bag charm that resembled monkeys with red lips and announced that they are forming a diversity council to “elevate voices of color within the company and fashion industry at large.”  Appointing two celebrated black artists, Theaster Gates and Ava DuVernay, to chair the council (Wharton).

However, to others, the backlash is seen as a sign that people nowadays have become overly sensitive. And although Cesareo says she understands their perspective; the size of the offended group doesn’t matter to the company as social media allows negative messages to spreads fast and its important for a brand not to alienate even a small percentage of customers (Wharton).

Both professors state that the controversies surrounding these companies are teachable moments and express a need to reset hiring policies and practices.  “I think this is a really important learning point, not just for the brands involved but also for the industry overall, because there are negative spillovers to perceptions of the fashion industry more generally than just the single brand that made a mistake,” Cesareo said. “Going back to what we said, hiring practices and changes in these hiring practices are so important.”  (Wharton).

Talking about diversity can be uncomfortable but it’s an important discussion because it allows people to come to an understanding of each other’s cultures and resolve both social and personal dilemmas from home and at work.  Social media can open new doors for people, but can also close them to distasteful products that disrespects other’s culture.  And that companies should take note on management and hiring policies and practices because not all designs are considered kosher amongst certain groups (Takacs).

 Photos

· “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle,” Google Images, Google, 2019, web.  https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1368&bih=770&ei=bk9HXb_OJYzktQXQpqnYBw&q=coolest+monkey+in+the+jungle&oq=co&gs_l=img.3.0.35i39l2j0l8.26974.27377..28517...0.0..0.56.202.4......0....1..gws-wiz-img.....0.n6VEC6XF3L4

· “Gucci Blackface,” Google Images, Google, 2019, web.  https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&biw=1368&bih=770&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=i09HXZGrJovaswWYmrGQBQ&q=gucci+blackface&oq=gucci+&gs_l=img.3.0.0i67l4j0l3j0i67j0j0i67.63973.66527..68186...0.0..0.66.357.6......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......35i39.dUstSdtwjvI#imgdii=TaBc16nQPVCE9M:&imgrc=bwRD7YgMuO0dCM:

· “Katy Perry Blackface Shoes Ebay,” Google Images, Google, 2019, web.  https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&biw=1368&bih=770&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=0E9HXYKOKISctgWyj6C4Bw&q=katy+perry+blackface+shoes+ebay&oq=ka+blackface&gs_l=img.3.0.0i7i30j0i8i7i30.108914.109048..110548...0.0..0.65.116.2......0....1..gws-wiz-img.GkoXCYwaLsY

· “Prada Blackface Monkey,” Google Images, Google, 2019, web.  https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1368&bih=770&ei=PmBHXaz9G-O1tgXlopcI&q=prada+blackface+monkey&oq=prada+monkey&gs_l=img.3.5.0l5j0i8i30j0i24l4.1144.7686..12956...0.0..0.57.752.15......0....1..gws-wiz-img.....0..35i39.DEUrFpJl0s8#imgrc=8F8WPIUrV6E16M:

Sources

· “Statement on Cultural Equity,” Cultural Equity, Americans for the Arts, 2016, web.

· Morten Christian Bjerre, “"Coolest Monkey in the Jungle" - A study on correlations between crisis communication and intentional consumer behavior,” Copenhagen Business School, © ResearchGate, July 18, web.

· “Gucci’s Misstep: Why a More Diverse Fashion Industry Is the Answer,” Marketing, Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania, 18 February 2019, web.

· Takacs, Stacy. “What Is the Function of Popular Culture?” Interrogating Popular Culture: Key Questions. New York: Routledge, 2015. pp. 41 – 65.

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An etching I did in 2011.