carolineleaper-blog - Tumblr blog

[carolineleaper-blog]

[carolineleaper-blog]

Palette

[carolineleaper-blog]

TEXT: Peter Pilotto Pre-Fall 2012/13

[Peter Pilotto Pre-Fall 2012/13] For pre-spring the design duo behind Peter Pilotto (Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos)are showing a sleeker, more crisp silhouette than ever before, hinting at the new directions that they may offer in the full spring/summer 2013 range.

Light seemed important to the kaleidoscopic prints as geometric fragments of colour were sprayed into patterns on dresses or beamed in smooth stripes across curves. On the rare occasion that solid colour blocks appeared to have be used, closer inspection taught us that the panels were actually cleverly printed in a tonal scale, a trompe l'oeil effect that made the copper and teal hues look lustrous and metallic. Overall, the fabrications were a lot more structured than in the designers’ previous pre-spring collections. Quilted jackets went with many looks reminding the spectator that while this is range has a spring aesthetic the weather can still be quite cold in February.

[COLOURS] white, copper, teal, lime, ultramarine, azure, amaranth, orange [FABRICS] silk satin, silk crepe, sport mesh, quilted viscose jersey [SHAPES] straight, hourglass, tapered [ACCESSORIES] cage sandals in blue or in black with scalloped ‘light wave’ straps in contrasting tones

TEXT by Caroline Leaper

[carolineleaper-blog]

[carolineleaper-blog]

TEXT: Erdem Pre-Fall 2012/13

[Erdem Pre-Fall 2012/13] The art of pressing flowers is somewhat underrated, dismissed by many as a dated hobby. Yet season after season, Erdem Moralioglu has been committed to the craft, flattening each season’s key blooms into the most charming, yet fashion-forward, embroideries. They cross panels, blurring through the seams of his creations and softening the silhouette of the woman that is wearing them. 

For his mid-term mini-collection, the mood had taken a decidedly autumnal tone, as florals in warm orange and burnt coral were mounted onto backings of solid camel cotton and ochre wool felt. Several of the prints were magnified- an unusual occurrence for a designer that has perfected the trade of the micro details. Autumnal plants sprayed across a sheath dress and were applied with more caution as they climbed up the cuffs of a classic white shirt. Reminiscent of fallen leaves, the abstract images were orange and still slightly green in places while browned and crisp in others.

Lace and further stitch details added textural dimensions to other motifs within the range, a technique that has quickly become the designer’s signature. Roll neck jumpers, cashmere cardigans and an assortment of enveloping coats reminded the spectator that Erdem’s flowers were definitely in season, the most colourful and spirited way to keep warm as the temperature drops.

[COLOURS:] a whole spectrum of oranges with duke blue and ochre mixed into the bunch. [FABRICS:] matte satin, pleated crepes, lace layers, cosy cashmeres and wool felts.  [SHAPES:] body conscious, prim and streamlined with defined features. Capes and peplums add occasional flare. [ACCESSORIES:] almond toe pumps in yellow, print and black.

 TEXT by Caroline Leaper 

[carolineleaper-blog]

TEXT: Diane Von Furstenberg Pre-Fall 2012/13

[Diane Von Furstenberg Pre-Fall 2012/13] Fall fell slowly on DVF’s pre-winter collection, creeping up on the spectator as the show progressed. The last light of summer was caught by a few of the designer’s signature wrap dresses -in light printed chiffons and draped silk jerseys- before the looks moved into those more equipped for the cold season. The cool pastel shades that were proposed for the spring have been saturated with warmth for winter, as barely-there peach turned to baked terracotta and light grassy greens deepened into a dark forest. Long leather gloves gave an urban edge to the prettiest of dresses and told us that the chill was on the way. As the show and, in turn, the season intensified the colours turned to monochrome, making a whole new palette of textures emerge with prominence. Oil slicked leather appeared to have coated a raffia trench coat, wool flannel suits were pebbled in their marl giving the impression that they had stepped straight off the pavement ,while a lazer-cut jacket with matching boots emulated a metal drain grate – all indeed suitable for a collection titled ‘Asphalt Diva’. The city had even subtly worked its way into DVF’s statement prints, as an edgy version of houndstooth was set off with sharp grid lines – mimicking the New York City blocks the clothes were designed upon, and the metropolitan lifestyle they were designed to lead.

[COLOURS:] warm and rich with acidic undertones: terracotta, forest green, duke blue, monochrome [FABRICS:] draped silk jersey, printed chiffon in layered panels, textured leathers, structured wool felt and tweeds. [SHAPES:] leather-clad skinny arms, dropped waists, cowl necks [ACCESSORIES:] semi sheer stockings, studded leather belts, long leather gloves, bright coloured bowler bags and the Harper chain clutch is reinvented for the new season

TEXT by Caroline Leaper