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Home Cookin'

As I sit at the picnic table with my friends, it becomes quite clear to me that they are all from different ethnic backgrounds. Greek, Bulgarian, English, Cuban, Canadian, Colombian and Panamanian litter this table and we all enjoy a nice crafted brew. As we sit and talk about whatever is going on in our lives, we turn to food as a binding source of what it means to be home.

We all begin to reminisce about "momma's cooking" and all are far from our original birthplaces. I, unfortunately, do not cook traditionally at home. I don't have the patience for Cajun cooking or the knowhow of Asian/Latin cuisine save rice. I'm also lazy. I have my mom in town for that and nothing beats that woman's cooking.

Elena cooks moussaka when she wants to feel like she's in her Bulgarian hometown of Petrich. She also enjoys stuffed cabbage and a fermented beverage called Boza. At this juncture, Elena has not seen her family in 13 years. I could see and hear the sadness in her voice as she describes the ingredients for these dishes. I could also sense everyone else missing home as we talked about the foods we love and how making them brings them back there. It's hard being away from family and culture, you lose a sense of yourself when decide to take up residence here. When you are completely separated from your family by ocean or vast land, sometimes cooking hygge-type dishes consoles the soul.

Some of us have been in America so long that it is the one thing that keeps us tied to our countries and culture. When my mom makes platanos maduros or sancocho, it brings me back to my heritage and where I come from. I asked some immigrant friends what do they make at home to shorten the distance.

"Baked beans on toast, a curry, meat pies (thank you Proper Pie), Cadbury’s Chocolate (must be imported, not licensed by Hershey), McVities Digestive Biscuits. I used to go out of my way to find British bacon and sausages but I gradually started subbing hard to get items with my favourite American foods. Beans on Toast is like an easy cheat that takes me back. I guess I used to cook a nice fry up or bangers and mash."  -- Chris, English

I recall visiting my friend Lisa at her parent's house in college. Her mother was Italian and I remember her making gnocchi. She was preparing the pasta with such care and you could tell how proud she was that she would be serving us real Italian fare. Lisa says loves making her mom's lasagna and since she's passed, I'm sure it brings a whole other meaning to her making the dish. 

My friend Josie (Athens Tavern) doesn't have to go far to feel like she's back in Greece. If she wants to feel a taste of home, she makes Trahana, a poor man's soup basically a lot of feta cheese and good olives with Greek chickpea soup.

"Biltong - sort of like beef jerky but salty. South Africans will pay big money for this when they miss home. Braai vleis - South African BBQ. South African sausage (Boerewors) and lamb chops on a charcoal fire."  -- Paul, South African

When my Kiwi friend, Ashlee misses home, she eats kiwi fruit, vegemite on toast or a meat pie. Proper Pie once again to the rescue!

I think because people forget that our friends are immigrants, it is sometimes hard to empathize with the missing of home. My mister hasn't lived in Canada for almost 20 years, yet his family is there. He feels everyone dismisses the fact that being from Canada is being from a different country. "We have our own culture there too," he insists. I don't think he gets the proper Coffee Crisp and Poutine intake to comfort him. 

Louisiana is far from foreign, but it is safe to say it has its own culture and one I miss greatly. When I eat crawfish, which is never here, it brings me back to sitting in our backyard with my family, listening the elders speak in French while Zydeco plays in the background. When my mom makes gumbo or rice dressing, it takes me to my childhood and I miss our family gatherings, my uncles' cooking, and boudin from the tiny grocery store on the corner. When my mom makes platanos maduros or sancocho it reminds me where I'm from. 

As the sun goes down and the last of the beer washes down our throats, I think about how lucky I am that I have this colorful array of individuals in my life. How each one of them works so hard to make a better life for themselves and their families. I listen to their stories about their mothers' cooking these delightful dishes and how hard it must be for them to be so far away from family. And now I'm starving and nudging each of them for an open invitation for dinner. 

"Hey mom, yeah, whatcha doin? You know I've been craving...."

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CRAFT RVA National Book Lovers Day!!!

I love books. I love the smell of them, the feel of them, and I love libraries. When I was a kid, I couldn't wait until it was my turn to do library duty because I loved books so much. When I was in New York, I read a lot more. Being on a subway for 45 minutes was 45 minutes of pure reading joy, but I find it harder, or rather, I have more excuses for not indulging in the written word these days. Unless you count Anne Marie Pace's "Vampirina Ballerina" or Andrea Beaty books (which are wonderful, by the way), I haven't really been doing much physical reading, unless you count real estate contracts and disclosures, reading. 

Today I would like to celebrate National Book Lovers Day by mentioning RVA's wonderful literary culture. Thanks to bookstores like Chop Suey, Fountain Bookstore, BBGB for providing unique titles, local authors, readings, history lessons, children's literature, and just great places to hang out with literary content. I want to give a special shout out to local authors, Ward Howarth (River City Blues), congrats on being Richmond Magazine's "Best Local Author with a New Book" and congrats to Miss Valley Haggard for "The Halfway House for Writers" I cannot wait to delve into this. These are two people I've grown up with here in Richmond and it's inspiring to see them accomplish what I have wanted to do all my life. Maybe I'll get off my ass and actually do it now. I have to mention Slash Coleman, "The Bohemian Love Diaries". The way that Slash tells a story always touches my soul. I relate to him as a writer and he is one of my favorite storytellers because there's something very empathetic about how he writes that I just love.

Take today, carve out a little moment of time, and sit with your favorite book or you can enjoy these fun facts I have about my book experiences:

SOMEONE has my Neil Gaiman "Good Omens" book. Never let people "borrow" books, best to just give them because you won't be seeing them again! I obtained this favorite while working at Cinema n' Drafthouse from a bartender. It is one of my favorite books.

When asked, "what places do you find sexy", my immediate answer is Libraries, old, beautiful libraries.

I have three dedicated books when reading: 1 - The Bathtub Book - (currently and coincidentally, "American Gods", by Neil Gaiman. 2 - The Bedside Table Book (currently Valley Haggard's "The Halfway House for Writers") and 3 - the Travel/Beach/Pool Book (currently, nada since I haven't been anywhere or done anything this Summer!)

When I was in 5th or 6th grade I brought home books on the occult and exorcisms. My mom immediately threw them outside and told me to never bring such evil in the house again. So I read about it at the library.

I love to be read to by men and I found through the years that men loved to be read to.

I have many genres I favor. I love a good fantasy novel. I have an affinity for young adult books, I have no shame in indulging in a good emotionally charged, tragic coming of age romance that may or may not involve mystical creatures.  I have to say my favorite is memoirs. There's nothing richer than reading about how someone else lived.

I've been completely ignored for books before. If i had written a novel on my body, he probably would have realized my story was more interesting.

I've had a few people sign books for me. Funny thing, the only one that made me gush was an art book. Thank you, Mark Ryden. I'm coming after you, Mr. Gaiman!

My favorite autobio is Miles Davis. If you haven't read this, you'll love it.

My favorite book as a kid was "A Wrinkle in Time". My favorite book as an adolescent was anything by Anne Rice. The book that got me into enjoying English class was Nathaniel West, "Miss Lonelyhearts" and to this day is one of my faves. The book that I resembles my life the most is "The Joy Luck Club".

The majority of my reading growing up was through comic books. 

My favorite place to read in Richmond is Libby Hill in Church Hill.

I have never read "To Kill a Mockingbird". Yeah, I know...

I won a bookmark contest in 4th grade. I got a McDonald's watch and a letter from Ronald Reagan. I should have started questioning then...artist? writer? Hmmm...

What are your book stories? Hit me up on Facebook and let's chat!

Tag #craftrvareads on your instagram, I want to see you with your books:)

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A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Ballet...

Written by: Jo Ann L. Breaux

What would seem like a typical interview for CRAFT RVA actually became an instant karmic connection. It is one of the reasons that CRAFT has been on hiatus, but I thought it appropriate to explain myself to my very supportive readers and I thought what a way to get back in the game. 

Let me start by saying that dance for me is an art form and craft I've always been affected by. It is probably the only one that can stir emotional expression so deeply and sincerely. Yes, I am that person who thinks Travis Wall and Sonya Tayeh are choreography gods. So, to say the least I sort of love dance and yes I will, with reckless abandon, dance in my living room. I had no idea I would be submersed into its very world by coming to the aid of a computer challenged technicality. I'm proud to say that I hold a title here at Latin Ballet and yes, I know I'm writing a biased piece, I would like to think I am being subjective with my internal experience.

I speak horrible Spanish. I barely know my Panamanian history. I was never really exposed to that side of my culture besides the incoherent Spanish ramblings of my mother's foreign tongue or the occasional traditional Latin meal or story. I never really understood what my mom went through when she came here in the 70s. I didn't understand how disoriented she must have felt going from the lush jungle and mountains to the humid, flat Deep South. I blocked out all the times she was made fun of for her accent or called certain things for her tanned skin. I was angered how men leered at her in the grocery store, but was just a small child and unable to do anything about it. It wasn't well into my teen years I found my ethnic identity and really comprehended why mom never taught me Spanish or anything about my Panamanian background and learned I was never Latina enough, Asian enough, or white enough to be able to figure out the capacity of my genetic makeup. Which is why, this whole connection with Latin Ballet has been some kind of racial cosmic connection.

I can go on and on about Founder and Artistic Director of Latin Ballet of Virginia, Ana Ines King and her credentials and awards. It would take more room than I've got here. I'd rather concentrate on Ana as an artistic role model and as a native of Bucaramanga, Colombia. It is important to note that Ana's mother was a dancer and she was the one who taught her the art of Flamenco. Her sister. Rosana is also an accomplished dancer, Ana being the Queen of the East while her sister resides in the West, both educators and choreographers. To say this little mouse of a woman is passionate is an understatement. This woman who founded Latin Ballet of Virginia with an idea sprung from an experience her daughter, Melody had when coming to America, has worked relentlessly to implement and engage cultural understanding through dance for 20 years!

Ana's story is similar to my mother's. The likeness between them is uncanny, the way they speak, the way they explain things, and mostly the fervor of determination. Ana sees something she wants and then she makes it a reality, through sheer belief. She's fiery, she's enthusiastic, and she's bold. She does not take "no" for an answer and it is through that she knows nothing to be impossible. Ana came to America just as my mom had, simply put, she fell in love with an American, married, and came to the United States. What isn't easy to understand is the assimilation process. I was lucky, I didn't have to partake in that part because I was very young coming here from Panama, where as Melody was almost a teenager when they arrived in Virginia.  Now, as I'm writing this, I discovered that when I came to Richmond, I was a pre-teen, I had been raised in Cajun country for most my life. Coming to Richmond was incredibly difficult for me. I was extremely shy and people made fun of my accent and my clothes. I was a fish out of water for sure. So, when Ana was telling the story of her daughter's experience, I was not only recalling my mother's, but also my own. Ana's daughter also lost confidence in herself, she didn't speak and she became quite depressed upon arriving here.

For any American who travels abroad, it is difficult to really delve into the language and culture of some countries you visit. We as Americans travel swiftly, usually taking in 3-5 countries in our two week vacation allowance. There's not really time to learn anything. You take a gondola ride and eat pizza in Napoli, you say "Hola" in Spain while drinking Sangria on the beach, you take some photos in front of the Eiffel Tower while eating some cheese and before you know it, you're back on American soil never having learned the language or spending a good amount of time partaking in the culture.

For Ana, if was her husband's family who gave her the hugs she needed, the warmth that comes from being Latin, to feel comfortable and accepted. For Melody, starting in a new school wasn't so easy. There are no open windows in the schools here in the States, but in places like Panama, Colombia and Costa Rica, the schools are open to nature, you can hear the birds sing, a monkey or two pass by and the sun shining it's beams inside while you are learning. It was a very different "institutional" environment here for her and for someone coming from such topographically beautiful lands, it can be a hard place to adjust. It is quite difficult to feel like you belong or that you are connected to anyone when you've been plopped into a whole different culture. Ana, although hard, was willing to let her go back to her native Colombia and finish out the rest of her school, but it was a simple demonstrative assignment of teaching her classmates Salsa and cumbias that would not only bring Melody out of her shell, but would also spark the conception for Latin Ballet. Ana would soon realize that dance could help these kids identify and feel proud of where they come from. She could teach them English through dance and help them become more confident in speaking and interacting with their American peers and so Ana, would find her mission.

Despite being 20 years established, a lot of people have different notions of what Latin Ballet does. LBV is made of three solid branches on a very colorful tree. Ana not only has implemented successful award-winning educational programming and residencies including the "Be Proud of Yourself" program and the Arts in Education Summer Camps in our Richmond, VA community, but LBV is also made up of a Professional and Junior Company which perform throughout the year, sometimes touring outside the state. If that's not enough, LBV teaches students in Flamenco, Salsa, Ballet, Hip Hop and Contemporary dance techniques four days a week for 16 week semesters. What's beautiful about what LBV does, is it creates an environment where children from different backgrounds and countries can feel confident and safe, yet also gives exposure to those kids who are not always in a gentrified group. In other words, White children are learning about Spanish and Latin language, history, culture, and folklore and they are learning it directly from the source as well as helping these students who don't know English very well, language skills they need in their new home. When you walk into an LBV studio, you see a medley of children from all different races and backgrounds. When they are dancing together, they are one. Ana is a big believer in everyone feeling good and confident about who they are. She embraces all her "children", including her adult instructors and dancers, some of whom have been with her since they were as young as 3 years old. The programs she has brought to many low-income schools and communities has brought exposure to the arts to children otherwise oblivious to this world. Sponsors of Latin Ballet contribute to scholarships given to a lot of high-risk/low-income children, giving them the ability to learn to dance and perform.

Ana and her Professional Company of dancers perform at many charitable events and it is no secret that Ana does it out of pure love. If she wasn't dancing, I think she'd be six feet in and even then, I think the soil would kick up around her. Most of LBV's productions are folklore and myth based. She takes a lot of stories from Hispanic and Latin culture and tells these stories through passionate dance theater performances. Often times, they will showcase many dance forms and she has been known to bring guest artists from Spain and elsewhere to share the stage with them. LBV has quite a spectrum of ethnic backgrounds within the Professional Company itself including Cuban, Puerto Rican, and Italian, all from different dance backgrounds and lifestyles. I think it gives the entire feel a zest not found in most dance companies. When people see an LBV show they leave invigorated and spirited. There's a lot of heart on and off stage.

When foreigners come to this country it is to seek a better life, a better opportunity. It is not only to contribute to their families who don't have the monetary means, but it is also to give to American society. Without Hispanic culture in this country, Texas may not have won their independence, more than half of the street names in America would not exist, you wouldn't know what a taco was, and a lot of white people would not be dancing Salsa at the club. What makes Latin Ballet of Virginia so special is that it is inclusive. It brings something unique to the stage and it gives back to our community by providing education through dance. I've been to Henderson High School. I have seen what dance has done for these kids. It put a huge smile on my face when they proudly show me what they've learned through our residency and yes, they were good, one teen actually choreographed her own routine. It is this type of learning that influences kids to become better people.

This weekend LBV is re-staging the production of "Nuyorican" which tells the stories of real experiences of Puerto Ricans who migrated to New York after WWII and the shaping of a culture in a foreign land where they faced discrimination and oppression. It also touches on the challenges of their offspring, born American, but caught between a cultural war of identity. It's a relevant piece, significantly in current times. Strangers in a strange land. I'm very proud to be a part of LBV. Not only do I get to be around dance, but I also get to understand where I come from more and it has become my little family, my hands flying, fast talking, Spanish speaking, vibrant familia.

For all those interested in learning dance from Latin Ballet (yes, even you adults) visit their website.

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My, My, My Michelle.

There comes a time when you go from drinking PBR to Guinness. There comes a time when you discover that food goes beyond french fries and mozzarella sticks. In the late 90s, I made these discoveries through friends and I call it my "coming of food-age". Now we have Roosevelt, Metzgar, and Saison. Then, we had Helen's, Zeus Gallery and...Bamboo. 

The first time I went to Bamboo, I felt like I had gone from College Prep to my Masters. It was just a grown up place. It wasn't fancy, far from it, but I had heard the food was amazing. Here,  you drank grown up, you talked about grown up things, and you ate some really good food. You felt as part of the establishment as the asses of bar flies adhered to their squeaky stools.  I never felt uncomfortable there, no matter how much I was in someone's armpit. I knew when I went to Bamboo, I wouldn't have to deal with Irish Carbombs and dudes rubbing their crotches against me. 

I sat at a booth with my soon to be fiancé, my best friend, and her husband. It was dark, but cozy on a nice Spring night. I had no idea what to expect, but was ready to indulge in a night of hanging out and taking in the din of the growing crowd. She walked up to the table, licked her fingers, and put the bevvy naps on the table. "What can I get for you guys?" slithered out of her lips as if to say, I don't have time for you to decide if the Bordeaux is from a good year or whether the fish is broiled or grilled. We ordered abruptly and said thank you. I was apprehensive to ask her questions about the specials, but she had a way of assessment with folks. It was like, she could feel out that we were in the "business" that we weren't going to treat her badly and we would send her off with a tip to put a smile on her face. In her lovable rasp, she commented on her night and was happy to tell us which specials were worth splurging on. Then I watched her stand at the bar, cigarette in hand, while she looked at her order pad. I was kinda in love with her whole thing.

From frequent nights and brunch's at Bamboo to eventually working for her at Cafe Rustica, Michelle Turner had become a fixture in my life that spanned almost two decades. I looked forward to seeing her and hearing how her day or morning was going because I could always guarantee a story full of spitfire and humor.  She was one of my favorite waitresses in town and she was someone I would be scared to party with for fear she would drink everyone under the table, climb on a table, throw the bottle across the room and exclaim, "Children."

Michelle Turner had a personality. She was full of fire, she was funny, she was shocking, she was political, and she didn't give a rat's ass what you thought. She was a complete techsist. If she didn't have to have a cell phone she would gladly trade it in to be surrounded by the pages of books. How she loved to read. She used to get so angry with me when I started the crossword, because just like me, she hated when she went to do it and it had been started. We both had a love for art and we saw eye to eye on her want to do regular shows at Rustica. She provided an intimacy with Rustica you don't get anymore. I loved doing openings there because it was a night surrounded by friends, good food, and she was proud to give these artists exposure.

Her and Sam were my restaurant family. They took me in when I lost a lot in my life. Michelle, although often times, surely, had a kind heart. She always believed in doing the right thing, often times giving the bum a few dollars for washing the windows of the restaurant. I loved sitting with her while drinking her recommended wine while she told stories or we talked about what book she was currently reading or the latest gossip around town. There were times when this bold woman would be seen at her most vulnerable and it was always endearing when she put her arms around Sam, her husband, as he stood tall beside her, coffee in hand, a kiss to her head. Then she would respond with something snarky, but you knew it was in love. She was my Mommachelle, she took care of us when we needed it and she gave us tough love when necessary.

I will always remember the obvious things about her, the rasp, the curly hair, the cool jewelry, the wine tastings, those reading glasses she lost often. Her spirit is what will remain with me for the rest of my days. As I sit here through the tears, I can't help but laugh out loud because I just imagined her standing her and smacking me upside the head and saying, "What the f*ck is wrong with you! Get off your ass and go get a mimosa, it's Sunday for Christ's sake!" That was Michelle and I loved her dearly and I'm only sorry that I didn't get to see her again, to sit and listen to NPR while she mumbled over some issue she was having over her phone, while the beautiful flowers she brought in adorned the bar and I sip on my Tempranillo, tempted to steal her Style and start the crossword puzzle.

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It's National Sandwich Day!

I LOVE A GOOD SANDWICH...

I can remember what my favorite sandwich growing up was. Oscar Myer Ham & American Cheese with Fritos. Yes, I did put Fritos in my sandwich. I later progressed to putting Doritoes. 

I have to say my favorite sandwich in general is an Italian. I have had some great sandwiches in my lifetime, but I thought I'd take this opportunity to list my top five in RVA.

The Industrial at Coppola's. I love Coppola's Deli, for years it has been consistent and provides one with a true New York Deli feel. The Industrial is just a perfect classic Italian Sando.

The Cuban at Kuba Kuba. Hands down has been my favorite Cuban sandwich in the city. The pork is delectable and the bread is always pressed perfectly.

Aosta Valley Panini at Cafe Rusica. Holy hell! This sandwich trumps all chicken sandwiches with tender grilled chicken smothered in Fontina cheese and on homemade bread.

The Fried Green Tomato BLT at Lulabelles. Probably the best Fried Green Tomato sando in town. Fried delicately and perfectly balanced with Pimento cheese on homemade Amish bread. To die for!

U.M.G.C. (GRILLED CHEESE) at Union Market. Sometimes you just want a really good grilled cheese. I found it here and it doesn't hurt that they have some great soups too! Yes, I go the extra mile and add bacon to it. 

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Music at Hardywood!

Music starts at 5:30!!! Shamasuki provides the mobile menu! Fat Spirit Dark, and heavy with pop sensibility. Straight from RVA. https://fatspirit.bandcamp.com/ Muuy Biien Ever evolving experimental noise punk from Athens, GA.  https://muuybiien.bandcamp.com/ The Milkstains Surf-rock sock hop with a dash of Dinosaur Jr. = psychedelic-low-fi garage-rock grunge themilkstains.bandcamp.com

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Ardent & COTU Come Together for VA Pride

Celebrate the release of two craft beers made exclusively for VA Pride and OutRVA at Quirk Hotel and Barcode. On September 1, get your first taste of Georgie Porgie. Inspired by pudding and pie, Ardent Craft Ales' Georgie is a mixed berry pale ale. Porgie from Center of the Universe Brewing is a chocolate pudding porter.  Join them on Quirk Hotel’s rooftop from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. with DJ Amy Alderman spinning. Limited edition Georgie Porgie glassware will be available with donation. Barcode keeps the party going afterwards. There is no cost for admission -- Virginia Pride’s bucket brigade will be on-site to help keep Pridefest on September 24 at Brown’s Island free.

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Beer Brunch at Ardent Craft Ales

Beer Brunch returns this Labor Day weekend on Sunday, September 4 for a special edition with Richmond's Stock Provisions - Richmond butcher and grocer! They'll be there at the brewery cooking up ham biscuits with their housemade Tasso Ham as well as a variety of Breakfast Burritos packed with their own signature sausages and bacon. Do not miss this beer brunch! The occasion will be capped off with Micheladas made with Texas Beach Bloody Mary Mix.  Free to enter and pay as you go for food and drinks. Starts at 12pm.

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Final Gravity Celebrates 1 Year!

It's Final Gravity's one year anniversary! Come by and help them celebrate. They will be tapping a keg of our Bourbon Barrel aged Irish Goodbye that they saved from their opening as well as serving several new beers just for their anniversary. Los Gauchos will be serving up some tasty Argentinian food on site from noon to 7:00 or so, a bluegrass band starts at noon and Zion #5 Dub Squad will be playing the crucial dub starting at 7:00pm. It should be lots of fun and oh yeah, they'll also have cornhole set up outside too!

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ZZQ: When Pig's Fly

It's 4:30am in Lyon's Point, Louisiana. It's August and the sun will emit the overcoming heat that will result in a thickening layer of oppressive air leaving one unable to breathe and resulting in a puddle of a salty sopping mess. The gunshots are heard muffled in the distance from the farm and the lump in my throat is hard to swallow. This is my least favorite part of the day. 

By 5:30am, the rig has arrived from Texas with two very large smokers and fresh beef that's been seasoned to accompany them. They've been marinating for the last 24 hours. The smokers are unloaded and ready to be filled with the wood. My uncles and cousins start early this morning for our annual August birthdays/family reunion fais do do. By that afternoon, we will feast upon the brisket, pork, chicken, sausage and the sides made by friends and members of the family. The drinking of Miller Lite and Budweiser is essential in the cooking ritual. My Uncle Sonny, NEVER cooked without a can of Bud, for his food and for himself. It all starts very early and ends very late, but the one thing that is for sure, it is the best BBQ you will ever taste. Pay no mind to my cousin dancing to "Who Let the Dogs Out" in the church hall.

Texas BBQ is the only BBQ in my eyes. It takes patience and talent to prepare and cook it and when it is done right it is the most succulent morsel.  It is also a food which brings people together and most everyone can remember their father at a grill or pit, beer in hand, sweating his ass off for the family picnic or neighborhood gathering denoting that Summer has arrived. I have lived in Virginia for quite some time and have yet to have a brisket worth mentioning. I've had decent BBQ, (Pierce's, Fette Sau, Ronnie's)  but never the kind that brings back memories of my family's smoked goodness. Until last year...

It has been described as "luscious", "flawless", and "heavenly" and for a decade Chris Fultz has been perfecting his craft of creating the perfect BBQ. Along with his Pitmistress and wife, Alex Graf, this delightful duo have created a sought after savory commodity untouched by the local BBQ scene. Every Friday, they can be seen hunkering down and going through the multi-step process of smoking their wares for the next day.

Alex Graf and Chris Fulz are a lovely couple. When you meet them you just want to invite them over for dinner and a drink. Chris tells stories you listen very hard for and Alex is just a vibrant individual whose energy is contagious. They approach their business the same way. Every Saturday you see them doling out the goods, but always with a flow of conversation. It's like you're in their backyard and they are giving you a piece of themselves. The customers that stand in hour lines to get their BBQ are just as giving. Recently the two had to cancel one of their Saturdays due to sickness and customers were not hesitant with checking up on them to make sure all was ok. Alex even joked of one dedicated customer who had dropped his nephew off at Kings Dominion just so he could come get some ZZQ.

Self-taught in the art of BBQ, Chris claims his self-education is due to a lot of reading, trial and error and participating in BBQ competitions. As he thumbs through a small notebook of intricate scribblings and drawings, It doesn't seem at all odd that his background in architecture has leant itself to his craft. 

"I obsess about making the perfect brisket all the time."

He decided that making BBQ was more fun than doing architecture, but very similar.  As he explains that he documents each cook every time and pays very close attention to details, Fultz denotes the demeanor of a meticulous scientist when explaining his operation. There's a different process for each meat and as he, like most chefs, has an understanding that there is a lot of science required, whether it's the temperature, air flow, or amount of heat. He doesn't hesitate to admit there's a lot of problem solving and tweaking with each step. 

Watching Alex and Chris work together is this ebb and flow of effortless machinery. He brings over the flavor soaked meats for the next step and she pulls the paper for wrapping without missing a beat. Realizing it was five years ago this month that Chris asked her out, she pleasantly recalls the date without a blink and and it's apparent the two are a match made in hog heaven. She expresses that it's not a big challenge for them to work together and she actually enjoys the time they spend on the job. How lucky was she, that her marriage to Chris brought forth an exciting venture she has grown to absolutely love.

I feel like I'm doing something I want to do. I never would have imagined that it would be this...I never would have imagined that making potato salad would be a thing I would enjoy!

Maxine does all the real work. She's the 3,500-pound smoker with a 16-foot smoking chamber they had custom made and designed by Chris. She's impressive, smoking her sister, Mabel under the table with four times the cooking capability. As Fulz chops the wooden logs to feed her fiery chamber, he is dripping of sweat and it's hard to imagine this is pleasurable in any sense.  It does however smell of campfire heaven, as people start to approach the couple with inquiries of when they can get some and will it be done soon. They are withered by the response of "tomorrow".

The symbiotic communal relationship they have with Ardent Craft Ales is no less a love affair in itself. ZZQ debuted their residency at Ardent's annual Swine and Brine in 2015, and it's merged into this beautiful friendship. Ardent has made their stay not only profitable and easy, but has also given them their new apprentice, Ardent employee, Brian Dolenti. Dolenti takes over the first shift these days, making things a little less hectic, allowing the couple some breathing room. While they search for a brick-and-mortar and figure out how this will change the dynamic of the business, Chris and Alex are in hopes of planting themselves in the burgeoning and loved area of Scott's Addition. They recognize their customers at this point and their customers are quite aware of Maxine's abilities, standing in line for hours, as the 14+ briskets and pork shoulders along with their tasty accompaniments are diminished in a matter of hours. What's more is that they've given Vegans/Vegetarians a delicious alternative of smoked seitan which actually tastes fantastic. Now, they too can enjoy the savory flavor of ZZQ. 

Little did Chris know the initial introduction to BBQ at Grandma's house would turn out to be a passionate endeavor. They are creating food that has tradition, culture, and melt-in-your-mouth flavor. As they hurdle over the challenges of time management, a search for the perfect venue, catering schedules, and the responsibility of creating the perfect brisket, Alex and Chris are some of the most easy-going people you'll ever meet. The man from Texas and his bride from Virginia, architects of both design and food, are hitting the mark with some lip-smacking grub that will have you counting down to Saturday. Beer and BBQ---the perfect Summer combo! So, gather your friends and make a pitstop, because come Monday, you'll be bragging about how you met Maxine and her most perfectly, succulent brisket.

What They are Tasting

What do you get when you ask one of Virginia's best BBQ vendors where they go for BBQ?  HogsHead Cafe, Deep Run Roadhouse (original location) and surprisingly they are partial to Mission, although a chain, they provide different styles

Must Have at ZZQ

The Brisket, hands down, the most amazing flavor and the time spent on it is evident, the Jalapeno Mac n' Cheese is divine. Get the platter for the real deal and if they have the spare ribs on your visit, you won't be disappointed by the flavor or the size of them. Their BBQ goes quite well with the IPL or the IPA. 

Where to Find Them

Every Saturday from noon to when they sell out at Ardent Craft Ales in Scott's Addition - it is advised that you get there earlier and they also accept pre-orders for early pickup beginning at 11:30 AM. 

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Alewerks and Smartmouth Takeover at Cask Cafe

Williamsburg's Alewerks and Norfolk's Smartmouth have a mini takeover at Cask Cafe. Come try these two great breweries and eat some delicious Sausage Craft.

[craftrva-blog]

Mean Bird: HitchCocked

Eleven years ago, I met this tall, scrawny kid working in the kitchen at Dot's Back Inn. He was just a teenager finding his way into the world. He had a quiet intellect about him, but always had a sarcastic and humorous outlook on things, which made work quite enjoyable. He was mature for his teenage years and was a good listener with a diligent work ethic. Little did I know then, that the kid would grow up to be a husband, a father, and a Fried Chicken Food Truck success story.

A friendship that started in their Freshmen year of high school, the union of Mike and Sarah Moore was no easy feat. After round three of their dating history, Mike finally married "the roommate", as he affectionately calls her. In October, they will be celebrating 6 years of their marriage and their son Jamie (named after the late Jamie Dickerson of Dot's Back Inn and Jazzbo’s Rollin’ Gumbo), will be turning 2. Last year they realized their dream of opening a food truck dedicated to the Southern tradition of Fried Chicken and even added a twist---Southern Vegan Fried Chicken.

There have been some challenges for the first-time food truckers, as Mike transitioned from years of working and managing a kitchen to the confined space of the beautifully designed (Katie Davis of Salvation Gallery) Mean Bird truck. 

"It's a totally different game.  Steep learning curve.  I definitely don’t think I was prepared for the ways you have to think about inventory, prep, and general repairs for a food truck vs a kitchen proper.  Always gotta think about how much water do I have? If I boil pasta will I have enough water to do my dishes? How much propane do I have? How much trash can I carry with me? And at the end of day everything has to be not only cleaned, but tied down. In the beginning, I know our quality suffered. I think we are getting into a pretty good groove now, though sometimes i feel like I’m cooking out of playhouse."

For Sarah, who is more familiar with front of the house presence, working at various restaurants since she was a teenager, there were other predicaments. She didn't have an inkling of the physical demands, nor the obstacle of weather changes. Facing recent Mercury bursting temperatures, has tested their endurance, as the highest reached in Mean Bird was 117º. She says they've had to turn off their iPad register multiple times because of the heat and there just doesn't seem to be enough water for 3 people during a shift. She acknowledges, "I had no idea what Mike was going through all these years!" 

Sarah and Mike, like a lot of Entrepreneurial Couples, have a productive working relationship. Mike does the cooking and truck maintenance, but Sarah is a proactive creative force with her background in design, art, social media, and marketing. She and Mike balance each other's skills when conducting Mean Bird. Not all couples can work together. I find that watching couples who have been in the restaurant business are more likely to succeed due to pure understanding of how the industry works and the stress involved. Sarah and Mike seem to be able to communicate on an even keel, and as some of you may know, working in a busy kitchen does not have a calming affect. 

"More of the pressure is on Mike when it's just the two of us on the truck, but I'd like to think I hold my own. And we can communicate and get everything done with cool heads, even if it's super busy."

Sarah has a harder time "turning it off" at home, and this, she admits, is a difficult result of owning an all consuming business, but always with understanding for Mike's position. She states, "I handle the business side--booking, financials, marketing, etc. I have our son most of the time, so I'm grabbing every spare minute to answer emails and make social media posts and submit event and health applications when he's napping or after he goes down for the night. And this means, I'm constantly peppering Mike with questions after he's spent 10-12 hours in a 100 plus degree kitchen."

Selling out your soft opening in a few hours is pretty spectacular and Mean Bird did just that as they set up shop back in March at Ardent Craft Ales. When they participated in this Spring's Central Virginia Food Truck Rodeo they were overwhelmed at the 100 person line that lasted over 5 hours. Sarah recalls, "After the initial shock, we looked at each other (over the head of Mike's mom who we had swindled into working with us that day), and I remember this moment of,  "Well, we're just gonna do what we can, and get chicken out of the window." And it wasn't pretty, but we kept our cool and got it done." It helps that they are the only food truck doing fried chicken specifically, but they openly welcome any competition. "Bring it!" dares Mike.

Most of my Vegetarian/Vegan friends don't get to indulge in the scrumptious crunch that is fried chicken, but thanks to Mean Bird they now have this option. After a lot of trial and error, including a myriad of recipes, Mike finally succeeded at its classic faux counterpart...and yes, it's just as delicious. The Veggie Bird is handmade from fresh vegetables, whole grains, herbs & seasonings and then battered in coconut milk. It doesn't have any isolated whey protein, no isolated soy protein, no textured vegetable product, no vital wheat gluten, so it's not over processed fake meat product. Along with the rotating veggie side dishes and in-house sauces, Mean Bird makes for a great picnic table offering. You can even get it in the bucket! The menu is focused on its main event, but they offer specials per park. And, if you want that wedding catered in Southern Style, they are your people. Although the Mean Bird truck pushes out the fried chicken, they don't just cater fried chicken or Southern fare.

With the success of RVA Street Art Festival and The Richmond Vegetarian Festival, Mean Bird has worked hard in scheduling their vending locations. It isn't an easy task and Sarah says there are many factors involved from the availability of electricity to what kind of people will be in attendance. Social media outlets, such as Instagram, have helped market their whereabouts and they are smart in getting in with the local breweries in town. They can be found in Scott's Addition frequently and are planning to do Third Thursdays at Studio Two Three (Co-Founded by Sarah) where they will donate 10% of their sales to the non-profit). Isley's once a month Farmer's Market is also in their sights and every Wednesday they are doling out the goods at Martin Agency.

Seeing repeat customers or meeting new ones, Mean Bird is keeping up with the difficulty of constant schedule updates, but seeing the line that accompanies their appearances speaks volumes of their success to do Fried Chicken justice. They also have a good support system and having been in the Northside area with the long time residency at Dot's has helped cheered them on. Like all ventures, perfection is a work in progress. When I asked Mike what Jamie would think of his venture, he responded with, "I think he would be equal parts proud of me going for it and disappointed that I kept doing this stupid kitchen shit instead of getting a real job. I think he would also think my son has a dumb name." 

What They are Tasting

Sarah loves Fried Green Hanover Tomatoes and likes to enjoy a Ballast Point Grapefruit Sculpin to cool off while Mike prefers Fried Green Hanover Tomato Sandwich on sliced thin Billy Bread grilled in butter, mayo with salt and pepper as well, but his drink of choice is Stella and Bulleit Rye.

Must Have at Mean Bird

Nashville-style hot chicken sandwich with Green Goddess sauce and Lemon Dill Potato Salad

Where to Find Them

Mean Bird keeps their schedule online HERE. They also update their Facebook page. Check out their Instagram feed as well.

They also have one of the coolest kickstarter videos I've seen and gives you a good idea of who and what they are.

[craftrva-blog]

Années Passées, Boo (Years Gone By, Dear)

The air in Louisiana is so thick at times, you could take a bite of it and chew it up. My favorite time of year there is always Fall/Winter and I grew up loving those seasons for a lot of reasons, but mainly because when those seasons arrived, so did the seasonal fare that came with it. 

The red cemented patio of my parent's ranch style brick home was littered with my family. My brother and me, along with my cousins played in the backyard with the usual excitement, despite the ability to not end up in a pool of sweat from the slightest exertion. My uncles and dad, cap adorned and propped in mesh folding chairs, coozied cold ones in hand while the "old language" flowed from their cigarette smoke clouded mouths, talked eagerly to one another as they caught up on the latest news of friends and family...gossip if you will.

The red mesh bag sat in the sun while the cat circled it's movement curiously. My mom is in the house with my aunts getting corn and potatoes ready while Glen Campbell, Kenny Rogers and Zydecco tunes filled the background. The huge steel pot outside was coming to a boil and the time was near. My dad walked over to the red bag and cut the top open and I could see the bubbles start. Crawfish blow bubbles when they are agitated. Growing up in Cajun Country, you have to come to terms with the fact that your daddies/papas/men of the houses are hunters, farmers, and fisherman and with that comes death. My dad took a few out so we could see them walk around with claws pinching and the cat thinking a new toy had arrived as he pawed and swiped at them. I always mentally said goodbye to them, but never watched my dad initiate the mass execution of these crustaceans, or maybe I blocked it from my childhood memories.

I was probably about 5 or 6 at that time. My Uncle Leroy called me over on one of my loops through the family circle and asked me to come over. My Uncle Leroy had silvery white hair and he slicked it back with pomade like a true old school country/western star. He always wore western shirts, the kind with the pearly buttons, and he had a pair of cowboy boots that would shame any faddist. Uncle Leroy was always a gentle man. He always made me laugh and he had a great smile. "Come see, Chere," he called. I ran up to him and he asked me if I ever tasted a beer before. I giggled, and tell him, "Nooooo, Uncle Leroy!" He tells me to have a little sip, just a little one, and I go for it. For the record, “The Beer that Made Milwaukee Famous” resulted in the face a baby makes when he has grapefruit or peas for the first time --- in other words I would not be making Schlitz famous by any means to my tasting abilities. For many, many years of my life, I resisted beer because of that first time experience. My mother was quite happy with that reaction.

My mom comes out with the potatoes and corn and puts them in the large pot with the Louisiana Crawfish Boil seasoning. It's on! Within the 15-20 minutes of the boil, the picnic table in our backyard gets covered in newspaper and soon it's time to dump all the goodies onto it. All the different shades of red make my mouth water and I cannot wait to shell the first one. My family comes together and we begin to pinch and peel the tails off, dipping it in the drawn butter, taking breaks to eat potatoes and corn. I was always proud if I got a lot of meat from the claws. It was like a rite of passage learning to eat crawfish. I am, however, not one who sucks the heads of these creatures. Yes, I know it's where all the flavor is, but I cannot bear to do this. My mother on the other hand...well, let's just say she isn't one to spare meat of any kind. You should see her eat ribs!

We are all laughing and talking as we devour our 50 pounds of crawfish. People always ask me what crawfish tastes like, I always answer, "Pure heaven!" I always found crawfish to be much more flavorful than lobster and less sweet. The seasoning definitely helps with this and I don't mean Old Bay. For me, crawfish brings back a lot of memories growing up and although my family always got together for eventful meals, I always loved our crawfish boils. Having my Uncle Leroy visit from Texas was always a treat as well and it seemed appropriate that he would be the one to give me my first sip of beer. 

I remember looking over to see a Garter snake in the yard. This was not unusual. I also saw a toad there. Then I saw the Garter snake open it's mouth and eat the toad. This was absolutely awful and fascinating to my 5 year old self. I was unable to comprehend what I was seeing verbally and just sat there wide-eyed and pointing. After much "Well, I'll be's and Look at that sonofa's", we continued to scarf down what was left of our feast.

By the end of the boil there is nothing left. The cat is allowed atop the table to lick the scraps we have amassed. Our bellies are full and I know once things get cleaned up, the preparation for a mad throw down of Bourré will begin. Bourré is a card game played by Acadians and was most popular at my family's gatherings. Then comes the real commotion, but that tradition is for another time. For now, my brother and I will endure the hoopla of my family and make way to "do-do"⁵.

I'm tempted to find a Schlitz and toast my Uncle Leroy (RIP) because it's highly unlikely I'm going to find some crawfish here.

7 Little things you may not know:

In 1902, With over 1 million barrels sold, Schlitz becomes the largest brewery in the world.

Schlitz introduced the now ubiquitous “Brown Bottle,” an innovation that inhibits light from spoiling beer as quickly, the first 16 ounce flat top can, and the now notable, "Tall Boy".

In 1970, Unable to keep up with demand, the Company builds a 34-acre brewery in Winston-Salem, NC. With a 4.4 million barrel annual production capacity, it became the largest brewery in the world.

We do not refer to Crawfish as Crayfish or Crawdads in LA...ever.

"do-do" (doh-doh) is short for Fais do-do, which is a Cajun dance party, but the term is used to denote putting children to bed quickly and away from the noise, the folkore in full can be read here. My aunts used to say "Go do-do" when it was time for us to go to the back room and sleep. 

Crawfish are farmed in the same fields as rice at times. When you drive out in the country sometimes you will encounter a number of escapees, claws up, ready to throw down on the roads. Louisiana accounts for 90% of crawfish in the nation. Before the 1980s they were sought after naturally, but due to high demand, farmers decided to use their rice fields interchangeably with crawfish harvesting.

The slang word "Boo" in Cajun means Dear or Sweetheart. My parents called each other that all the time.

[craftrva-blog]

Standard is the New Black

A few days ago I went to a restaurant to celebrate a friend’s birthday. This restaurant is one I’ve frequented many times and has resulted in mostly ordering take out. This restaurant is noted for it’s fancy cocktails and honestly great food. Perhaps they think the attractive, handpicked servers make up for the lack of bar professionalism that I’ve encountered on several occasions. Why are my panties all in a bunch for this particular experience? Mostly because I’m exhausted from every establishment denoting a high-end experience with lackluster service.

I’ve attended the bar here on four separate outtings. Every time, I’ve left with visions of wanting to plant an open-faced slap to the cheek of my bartender. I feel this is the scenario which resembles that of an ugly baby. Nobody wants to tell someone their baby is less than adorably cute. NOT ALL BABIES are cute and NOT ALL RESTAURANTS live up to their sparkling reviews in Style Magazine. I’ve read reviews of establishments that, to be quite honest, are overrated. Yes, I find it exciting and mouth watering that RVA is on the map for foodietown, but I also disagree that restaurants should get props where they are unworthy of such accolades and mediocrities, nor do I want to pay for such an experience.

I feel every time I go out these days, whether it’s a burger joint or the new Southern fusion installation, I’m paying high dollar for mediocre service and food. I had one server recently not know what’s in a Manhattan and could not tell me one single whiskey they had. I had another bartender serve me whiskey on the rocks when I asked for it neat. I witnessed a bartender describe Blue Moon as a Pale Ale. I went to the “Best Crabcakes in town” restaurant and got a mouthful of shell. I have had a lot of awful service experiences in the past year and honestly I’ve grown quite annoyed to the point where I don’t want to visit these places again. If you are going to pay $20+ for an entree or $10 for a cocktail, you had better provide the same standard of service. If your restaurant is getting rave reviews and all this air is being blown up your yin-yang, then you better not ignore me when I need a refill or just an acknowledgement that I’ve stepped up to the bar.

On this particular early evening at initially mentioned restaurant, I had to move twice just to get the bartender’s attention. I understand busy. I work in a very busy restaurant, but I never ignore a customer once eye contact is made. I understand muddling fruit and making tropical inspired libations is time consuming, but I also expect you to handle your business. I ordered a vodka and soda. Quite simple really. The sweat ladened man behind the bar asked if I wanted to start a tab in which I responded with a “yes” and after taking my card for several minutes, I vacated the bar area. A friend greeted me ten minutes later with my card in his hand. So, this guy just decided to give my card to some random person I may or may not have known. I thought he was keeping it for the tab since he never came back to me. I had the one drink. I went to pay my tab and I was greeted with a close to $8 tab. 

I’ve paid $8-12 for craft beer before. I’m no stranger to paying high dollar for delicious morsels. My problem with all this is, you’re serving me a standard drink and making me pay above and beyond for vodka that costs $20 a bottle and with a very crude disposition. If you had served me that drink with a smile on your face or a willingness to earn the $2 tip I left, it might not have gotten to me that much, but you didn’t. So, the next time I want a standard vodka for half the price I’ll go somewhere where I know my patronage is appreciated…thank you Bamboo. If I want to pay $12 bucks for a fancy cocktail with amazing service I’ll go over to Max’s or Roosevelt where I know I’m not just paying for a drink, but I’m paying to feel like I’m worthy of sitting at the bar. You may have all these “adventurists” fooled, but it takes more than some muddled fruit and tattoos to ignore your apathy.