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duncanbarker-blog · 6 years ago
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Being a vegetarian in Japan can be difficult, but with some effort and pre-planning it can also be very rewarding. We’ve had some of the most unusual and delicious meals we have ever eaten there.
We love the food culture and find vegetarian food in Japan to be high quality, beautifully presented, and healthy.
Since our first visit to Japan in 2011 the situation has much improved. There are now more vegetarian and vegan restaurants as well as traditional Japanese restaurants offering vegetarian options (with handy English menus).
I update this guide regularly (originally published in January 2012) based on our experiences on multiple return trips. 
Here are our tips for surviving Japan as a vegetarian:
Tips for Vegetarians in Japan
Learn Some Japanese
Simon trying to translate a Japanese menu in 2011. Now we have Google Translate—so much easier.
Not many Japanese people speak English (although this is improving) and learning a few phrases is essential to making your needs as a vegetarian understood.
Don’t be too worried though—although learning to read Kanji takes a lot of time, the spoken language is easier to pick up that I expected. I used the Pimsleur Japanese audio course. 
You could try telling people that you are vegetarian (“Watashi wa bejitarian des”) but they probably won’t understand exactly what this means. It is better to be clearer and instead say “watashi wa niku toh sakana wo tabemasen” which means I don’t eat meat or fish.
We found this phrase very useful and successfully used it in restaurants to get a vegetarian meal.“Tabemasen” means “I don’t eat” so you can add any word in front of that.
A few other useful words and phrases:
yasai – vegetables tamago – egg katsuobushi nashi de onegai shimas – without bonito (fish) flakes please …arimas ka? – do you have…? nan des ka? – what is it? oishikatta des – that was delicious. This always made people smile. arigato gozaimas – thank you sumimasen – excuse me
Print a Vegetarian or Vegan Card
On our second visit to Japan we found it was much easier to explain what we couldn’t eat by showing restaurant staff a card we’d printed from Just Hungry—they have options for a variety of dietary requirements.
We used the vegetarian card that said we couldn’t eat meat, fish or dashi (fish stock) and it saved us from dashi a number of times (this was always the hardest thing to explain verbally). 
Our vegetarian feast at Hotel Musashiya in Hakone. Ryokans are often great places for veggie meals if you explain your requirements.
Buy a Japanese Data SIM Card
I highly recommend taking an unlocked phone to Japan and buying a data SIM card when you arrive. We bought one from the Umobile vending machine at Tokyo Narita airport.
Being connected will make it easier to find vegetarian restaurants using Google Maps and Happy Cow and it also allows you to use Google Translate.
Use Google Translate
Packaging in convenience stores is almost entirely written in Japanese so it’s difficult to know the ingredients of a snack or rice ball.
We used Google Translate��s image feature to translate ingredient lists on packaging just by pointing our phone’s camera lens at it and pressing the camera icon in the app.
The instant translate view doesn’t always work, so for a more accurate translation take a photo of the packet and highlight with your finger the text you want to be translated.
This works for restaurant menus too, although we found most places we visited had English menus. 
Beware Dashi
It is often possible to find meals without meat or fish in them or at least restaurants may be willing to adapt meals for you, but the biggest problem is that fish stock or dashi is used in many dishes.
Soups, noodles in broth, and dipping sauces in non-vegetarian restaurants will likely contain dashi, and you’ll need to decide whether this bothers you or not.
On our first trip to Japan we tried to avoid dashi as much as possible, but there were times when we didn’t have much choice so decided to be flexible about it. 
On more recent trips we’ve found it easier to avoid dashi. The best way is to eat at a vegetarian restaurant—this is easiest in Kyoto, Tokyo and Osaka where there are lots of options.
We’ve also found that non-vegetarian restaurants are increasingly offering dashi-free options, but you do need to hunt these places out in advance. 
Recommended Reading: The 14 Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Tokyo.
Plan Ahead
Vegetarian version of local speciality hoba miso at Sukuya in Takayama
Although you could use the recommended phrase or vegetarian card above and turn up in any Japanese restaurant and hope you get a meal, we found it much more enjoyable to eat stress (and dashi) free at vegetarian restaurants or Japanese places with vegetarian menus.
It’s best to do some research online on sites like Happy Cow and plan ahead where to eat. See the bottom of this post for our favourite vegetarian restaurants in Japan as well as our guide to Kyoto vegetarian restaurants.
If you get stuck, like we sometimes have when the vegetarian restaurant I researched was closed, try looking for Indian or Italian restaurants which always have meat-free options.
Bakeries are also a good place for a snack. The Vie de France chain is found in many train stations and has options like margherita pizza slices, cheese rolls, garlic bread, and pastries. We’d rather eat a Japanese meal, but when that’s not possible it has stopped us from going hungry. 
Recommended Reading: The 14 Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Osaka.
Visit Kyoto, Tokyo or Osaka
Japan’s three major cities for tourists are the best places to find vegetarian Japanese food and the options are growing all the time. See our recommended restaurants in each of these cities below. 
They all have lots of entirely vegetarian or vegan restaurants. We especially love the healthy and affordable set lunches that most of these places offer featuring rice, miso soup, pickles, and an array of tofu and vegetable dishes. 
Vegan set lunches at Cafe Atl in Osaka
Vegetarian set lunches are a great way to explore Japanese food as you don’t have to worry about being able to read a Japanese menu and you can be sure that everything is meat-free.
Kyoto is especially worth visiting, as Japan’s ancient capital has a long tradition of shojin ryori or Zen Buddhist temple cuisine, which is entirely vegan.
That’s not to say you should only visit the big cities. There are many amazing places to visit in Japan and you can find vegetarian options in smaller towns. It’s just nice to be able to sample the wider array of veggie-friendly restaurants in the cities for at least part of your trip. 
Travel Tip: Don’t forget to buy a Japan Rail Pass in advance before arriving in Japan. It will save you money and make travelling around the country much easier. See our Japan Rail Pass guide to figure out if it’s worth it for your trip.
Eat Shojin Ryori in Temples
Shojin Ryori lunch at Shigetsu, Tenryuji Temple, Kyoto
Shojin ryori or Zen Buddhist temple cuisine is the beacon of hope for a vegetarian in Japan. The monks make it possible to enjoy delicious, healthy, creative Japanese meals and be sure that it is all vegan.
These multi-dish meals are beautifully presented and use seasonal ingredients. They usually include various types of tofu, an array of vegetables, rice, pickles, miso soup, and more unusual items such as the jelly-like konnyaku (made from the konjac plant). 
The best places to eat shojin ryori are in temples in Kyoto such as Shigetsu in Tenryuji and in the mountain town Koya-san where you can even spend the night in a temple.
It’s not just limited to temples, though, as we saw shojin ryori offered in traditional restaurants in many places around Japan including Nikko, Takayama, and Kanazawa. We had a fantastic fucha ryori meal, which is a version of shojin ryori with a focus on tea, at Bon in Tokyo. 
Although it can be expensive—our lunch at Bon was 5000 yen ($47) each—it’s worth splurging on shojin ryori at least once as it’s an experience as much as a meal. Lunch is usually much cheaper than dinner. 
Stay in a Ryokan
Simon wearing a yukata and enjoying our vegetarian feast in our ryokan room at Hotel Musashiya in Hakone
A great opportunity to try homemade kaiseki, a gourmet, multi-course traditional Japanese meal, is in a ryokan or traditional inn. Meals are usually served in your room and they are some of the best meals we’ve had in Japan. 
Not all ryokans cater for vegetarians, so check with them before you book or see if the reviews mention vegetarian meals. Make sure you specify no dashi. 
We use Booking.com to find ryokans in Japan—tick the Ryokan button in Property Type in the filter list to find them.
We used them to book our stay at Hotel Musashiya, a lovely ryokan overlooking Lake Ashi in Hakone, where you can see Mount Fuji. They are happy to cater to vegetarians and served us an incredible meal in our tatami room. 
We also had a couple of delicious meals in our room at Morizuya Ryokan in Kinosaki Onsen, a small town a few hours from Kyoto or Osaka where you can hop between the town’s seven onsen (hot spring baths) in a kimono. 
Our vegetarian sushi feast in our room at Morizuya Ryokan in Kinosaki Onsen
Staying in a ryokan is pricey, but it’s a unique experience and one of our favourite things to do in Japan.
Read our comparison of different accommodation in Japan for more details. 
Self-Cater
We usually stay in an Airbnb apartment for at least part of our trips to Japan. Self catering helps save money and we get a break from worrying about where to eat.
We found the array of fresh noodles and tofu in supermarkets to be delicious and reasonably priced. Add some vegetables and you can make an easy stir-fry. We’re also a fan of T’s Tantan instant ramen pots when we’re in Tokyo for a quick meal. 
The best places to stay in apartments are the bigger cities like Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka where there are plenty of options. Search on Airbnb here. 
Take a Cooking Class
Taking a vegetarian cooking class in Japan is an excellent way to learn more about Japanese cuisine, make sense of the confusing ingredients, and learn what you can and can’t eat as a vegetarian. Plus they are a lot of fun and you’ll get to enjoy a delicious meal. 
We loved this Kyoto cooking class with Uzuki. Emi teaches small groups of 2-3 people in her own home and offers many vegan options.
Next time I’d like to try this vegan ramen cooking class that’s listed on Airbnb Experiences and has fantastic reviews. It’s in Ibaraki which is 12 minutes from JR Osaka station or 20 minutes from JR Kyoto station by train. 
Other options are this ramen and gyoza cooking class in Osaka with vegan and halal options. 
In Tokyo this vegan class with a Michelin chef in Shibuya looks great, as does this five-course vegetarian meal in Ikebukuro. 
Vegetarian Japanese Food
These are some vegetarian Japanese meals and snacks to look out for. Be aware that anything that includes broth is likely to be fish dashi unless you are eating in a vegetarian restaurant or the menu says it doesn’t use dashi.
Tempura 
Somen noodle and vegetable tempura at Bon in Tokyo
Tempura, deep fried vegetables in batter, is the easiest vegetarian Japanese food to find. Most tempura restaurants have a vegetable option or you can ask for vegetables only. 
We had tempura donburi, tempura on top of rice, at Tendon Tenya, an inexpensive tempura chain. We skipped the included miso soup as it contains dashi.
For a more upmarket but still reasonably priced tempura meal, we enjoyed Tsunahachi in Shinjuku, Tokyo where we had a vegetable only version of their lunch set. They also have branches in Kyoto and Hokkaido. 
Fuji Tempura Idaten in Kawaguchiko (near Mount Fuji) was another good spot with a vegetable-only tempura option. 
Tsukemono
Tsukemono or Japanese pickled vegetables are an essential part of a Japanese meal and are always included in set meals. 
I love the crunchy texture and salty, sweet and sour flavour that provides a contrast to the more delicately flavoured dishes. In a worst-case scenario, you could always order tsukemono and rice for a simple meal.
Zaru Soba
Cold soba (buckwheat) noodles are popular in the summer served on a bamboo tray with nori seaweed, spring onion, wasabi, and a soy sauce dipping sauce that we skipped as it has dashi in it. If this doesn’t worry you then go ahead and dip the noodles in.
Soba or Udon Noodles
Noodles in broth are found everywhere and are made from soba (buckwheat) or udon (wheat) with a range of fillings.
If you explain you don’t eat meat or fish, you should be able to get a vegetable-only version, although the stock will likely be fish based. To avoid this order zaru soba (above), cold noodles that don’t come in broth. Udon restaurants may also have a cold broth-free version. 
In Kyoto there are a couple of udon restaurants that make vegan udon—we especially love the curry udon at Mimikou. 
Ramen
Midori vegan ramen at T’s Tantan
An increasing number of ramen shops in Japan now offer vegan ramen, so you can enjoy this classic noodle soup without meat. 
The best place to try ramen is T’s Tantan, an entirely vegan ramen shop in Tokyo Station with tons of options as well as instant ramen to take away.
Ramen chains that have vegan ramen are Chabuton, Kyushu Jangara Ramen, and Afuri. Our restaurant guides to Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka list more options (see below). 
Miso Soup
Miso soup (often with tofu and green onions) is part of every set meal including breakfast. Chopsticks are used to eat the ingredients and the broth is sipped directly from the bowl.
We only eat miso soup in vegetarian restaurants where we know they haven’t used dashi.
Okonomiyaki
Okonomiyaki is a type of Japanese savoury pancake made with a base of egg and milk batter and shredded cabbage plus other ingredients.
Although it usually isn’t vegetarian, it can be adapted to be by using vegetable fillings. It’s not usually vegan-friendly unless you try it at a vegan restaurant. 
Okonomiyaki being made at Rie, Hiroshima
In Tokyo we love the tomato and cheese okonomiyaki at Zen in Shinjuku. They have a vegetarian section of their English menu that explains the ingredients of the different types of okonomiyaki and we got ours without dashi by showing our vegetarian card. 
In Osaka, Okonomiyaki Chitose can do a vegetarian version (including one with noodles) if you ask. 
Japanese Curry
Vegetable and eggplant vegetarian curry at CoCo Ichibanya
Curry is really popular in Japan. It’s different from the Indian version but still tasty. Many Japanese curry places will offer a vegetable curry, but it’s likely the roux was made with meat.
For an entirely vegan curry head to Coco Ichibanya, Japan’s largest curry chain, and look for the separate green vegetarian menu with a range of different curries. It’s a cheap and tasty meal and you can customise your level of spice and ingredients.
Vegetarian menu at CoCo Ichibanya
The vegetarian menu is not available in all their branches, but most of them seem to have it these days. The easiest way to check is to search the reviews of your nearest branch on Google Maps and see if the vegetarian menu is mentioned. 
Sushi
Pickled vegetable (carrot) sushi at Komekichi Kozushi in Nikko
Vegetarian sushi is not easy to find in Japan, but it is possible.
Look out for kappa-maki (seaweed rolls with cucumber) and takuan-maki (pickled daikon radish roll). You can also find sushi rolls made with umeboshi (pickled plum), natto (fermented soybean), and egg. Inarizushi is rice stuffed in a tofu pocket—just check it wasn’t made with dashi. 
We had excellent vegetarian sushi at Komekichi Kozushi in Nikko, Little Heaven in Kyoto, and Morizuya Ryokan in Kinosaki Onsen.
Nasu Dengaku
Nasu Dengaku
Eggplant is grilled until soft and melty with a sweet caramelised miso topping. Nasu dengaku is a delicious comfort food that we ate at Shigetsu temple restaurant in Kyoto.
Gohei Mochi
Gohei mochi is a speciality of the Kiso Valley area that we sampled in the small, traditional village Tsumago. They are delicious grilled rice dumplings served on a stick in a sesame and walnut sauce. Don’t miss them if you are in the area.
Dango
Simon with his mitarashi (soy sauce) dango in Takayama
Another variation of the rice ball on a stick street food is dango, which we tried in Nikko and Takayama. The dumplings are smaller and are brushed with miso or soy sauce. 
Yaki Onigiri
Yaki Onigiri
Grilled rice balls in a soy sauce glaze are served with tofu, cold greens, and pickles on the side. They are quite plain but still a good vegetarian option. We ate yaki onigiri at an izakaya (Japanese pub).
Umeboshi Onigiri
Umeboshi Onigiri
Onigiri (rice balls) are found at every convenience store and supermarket and make good cheap packed lunches.
The problem is the labels are usually in Japanese, so it is difficult to see which ones are vegetarian. Family Mart and 7-Eleven now have the names in English, which makes things much easier.  
Plain and umeboshi (pickled plum) are the most common vegetarian onigiri. Umeboshi packaging is usually pink and plain ones are clear. You could also use Google Translate (see above).
I have also asked a nearby stranger in pigeon Japanese “Dore umeboshi des ka?” (which one is pickled plum?) and she pointed out the right one.  
Onigiri at Family Mart in Japan. The umeboshi (pickled plum) is on the top right.
The plain onigiri in 7-Eleven are just seasoned with vinegar and salt (they are now also labelled in English as Salted Rice Ball).
Sekihan Onigiri
Sekihan Onigiri
Red rice and adzuki bean balls are another tasty packed lunch you can pick up from a convenience store. The packaging is clear so it’s easy to identify without reading Japanese.
Sekihan Onigiri packaging
Other Convenience Store Snacks
A vegan picnic from 7-Eleven including pickles, edamame, pineapple, plain onigiri, and adzuki bean onigiri
Convenience stores in Japan are amazing and perfect for stocking up on snacks for a picnic or train trip (sadly bento boxes in train stations are not going to be vegetarian).
As well as onigiri, you can find inarizushi (sushi rice in a tofu pocket), edamame beans, pickled vegetables, boiled eggs, french fries (which were not as bad as you’d think), fruit including bananas and cut pineapple, salads (but be careful of the ingredients and dressing), plain cooked noodles, and lots of rice crackers and crisps. 
7-Eleven, Lawsons, and Family Mart are the most common convenience stores and you’ll find one on every block in cities. Family Mart and 7-Eleven now have English labels on their salty snacks so it’s easier to find plain crisps and avoid the many shrimpy things. 
We were tempted by the tubs of spicy cucumber at 7-Eleven, but unfortunately they contain fish sauce. 
In Natural Lawson, the healthier version of Lawsons, you might have more luck finding vegetarian-friendly snacks. They also stock the vegan T’s Tantan instant ramen. They aren’t as common as the other stores though. 
Oyaki
Pumpkin Oyaki
Oyaki is a speciality of the Nagano prefecture and we tried it in Matsumoto. Wheat buns are filled with different vegetables—we tried pumpkin (kabocha).
Kabocha Korroke
Kabocha Korroke (Pumpkin Croquettes)
Pumpkin croquettes can be found in the deli section of supermarkets and some restaurants and make a delicious, cheap vegetarian meal. We heated ours up at home and served with a salad.
Be careful of croquettes though—Simon bought a potato croquette from a stand and it turned out to have chunks of meat in it. 
Naigamo Yam
Nagaimo yam with nori and wasabi
This raw salad dish turned up in a few of our meals. Naigamo yam is rather unusual and wasn’t like the dense, heavy yam that we are familiar with but instead was light, crunchy, sticky, and watery. The main flavour came from the salty nori seaweed and hot wasabi that it was served with.
Konnyaku
Konnyaku at Yoshuji in Kurama
Konnyaku is known in English as Devil’s Tongue. It’s a jelly-like substance made from the root of the tuberous plant konjac.
It doesn’t have much flavour but is valued for its texture, which we found rather strange. It often features in shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian) meals. In the photo above konnyaku was served like sashimi with a dark miso sauce.
Mos Burger
Vegetarian rice burger at Mos Burger
Mos Burger is a fast food chain, but the Japanese are rather proud of it and a local pointed out that the food is made to order and brought to your table unlike in McDonald’s. They also sell themselves on being healthy and have a number of vegetarian burgers on the menu—point to the picture menu to order.
The kinpira rice burger is made with sautéed vegetables and seaweed inside two rice buns. It was surprisingly good, but it isn’t that filling so we were glad we had fries and onion rings with it. It’s a decent, quick and cheap meal when you can’t find anything else.
Mos Burger now also offers soy patty burgers. I don’t think any of the burgers are vegan. 
Rice Crackers
Chilli rice crackers at Nishiki market in Kyoto
Rice crackers (senbei) are available everywhere from market stalls to convenience stores. Just make sure you don’t buy a packet containing dried fish or shrimp.
We picked up this crunchy, chilli-covered rice cracker at the Nishiki market in Kyoto. 
Vegetarian Tofu Dishes
There is plenty of tofu in Japan and it is much higher quality than anywhere else in the world. There are even restaurants that only serve tofu in different forms for multi-course meals.
Be careful in tofu restaurants, though, as they aren’t usually vegetarian, and even if they can make a vegetarian meal for you, they will probably use dashi.
Sorano is a good tofu restaurant in Tokyo with vegetarian options marked on the menu and Tosuiro Gion in Kyoto can do a vegan set if you order in advance. We tried many of these tofu dishes in shojin ryori restaurants.
Goma Dofu
Goma dofu (sesame tofu)
This chilled sesame tofu is one of the most common dishes in shojin ryori.
It’s actually not tofu at all as it isn’t made from soy milk but from sesame paste, water and kuzu, a thickening powder.
It certainly has a different texture from the tofu we are used to as it’s soft, creamy, and melts in your mouth. It’s a refreshing dish on a hot summer’s day. It’s usually served with a dab of hot wasabi.
Yuba
Yuba (soymilk skin tofu)
Yuba is made from the thin skin that forms on the surface of boiled soy milk—it sounds weird but it’s delicious, creamy, and light. It’s a local speciality in Nikko. 
Koyadofu
Koyadofu (top) and yuba
This freeze-dried tofu originates from the temple-filled Mount Koya. It is reconstituted in water and becomes springy and sponge-like, absorbing the flavours it is cooked in.
Yudofu
Yudofu
A tofu and vegetable hotpot that is simmered at your table.
Dengaku Tofu
Dengaku tofu
Firm tofu served on sticks dengaku style. It is coated with a sweet miso sauce and grilled until it caramelises and becomes golden and slightly charred.
Inarizushi
Inarizushi
Vinegared sushi rice stuffed in a fried tofu pouch. We tried this at Tosuiro tofu restaurant in Kyoto and Komekichi Kozushi sushi restaurant in Nikko. It’s also sold in convenience stores. 
Our Favourite Vegetarian Restaurants in Japan
One of the 12 courses of our vegan feast at Bon in Tokyo
Tokyo
Tokyo has many options for vegetarians. Our favourite vegetarian restaurant is Bon, which serves exquisite multi-course fucha ryori in beautiful tatami rooms.
We loved the vegan ramen at T’s Tantan and Ramen Ouka. Milk Land in Shinjuku does an excellent value vegetarian lunch set. Zen is a vegetarian-friendly okonomiyaki place.
Read our guide to vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo for more details. 
Kyoto
It’s easy to be vegetarian in Kyoto. We recommend Shigetsu for shojin ryori at Tenryuji temple. We love the vegetarian set lunches at Hobodo Cafe, Veg Out, and Padma.
Mimikou does delicious vegetarian curry udon and Gyoza ChaoChao has a vegetarian gyoza menu. 
For more of our favourites, see our vegetarian Kyoto guide. 
Osaka
Osaka is very vegetarian-friendly if you plan in advance. There are an increasing number of vegan restaurants including Green Earth, Rocca, and Cafe Atl. 
You can try local specialities at Self Tacoyaki Bar Iduco, Matsuri, and Okonomiyaki Chitose. 
See our vegetarian Osaka guide for more delicious options. 
Koya-San
In Koya-san you can get shojin ryori meals for dinner and breakfast by spending the night at a temple.
We also ate the set lunch at Bon On Shya International Cafe on the main street which is vegetarian but serves international food rather than Japanese.
Nikko
Yasai Cafe Meguri in Nikko serves vegan lunch sets and Komekichi Kozushi has tasty vegetarian sushi options and is one of the few places open in the evenings.  
Kawaguchiko
If you are heading to Lake Kawaguchiko to see Mount Fuji, you can find a few vegetarian options. 
Fuji Tempura Idaten has a vegetable tempura set (skip the miso soup) and Peace Kawaguchiko has a vegetarian hot pot and a few noodle soups. We also had a break from Japanese at the excellent Pizzeria Onda. 
Takayama
Heinraku is a wonderful small restaurant in Takayama run by the friendliest lady and has pages of vegetarian options on the menu—I loved the Hida miso ramen. 
Sukuya is a good place to try a vegetarian version of the local speciality hoba miso—vegetables and tofu cooked with miso paste on a magnolia leaf. 
Kanazawa
In Kanazawa we struggled to find Japanese vegetarian meals so ended up eating Western food. Taste and Scent is mostly vegetarian and has a good value set lunch with rice and various salads.
Slow Luck is a tiny place focused on using vegetables in creative ways and has a vegetarian menu. The food was Italian-inspired and utterly delicious including a pesto, potato and mascarpone pizza and grilled vegetables with an incredible pesto dip.
See our 2 week Japan itinerary for more details about what we ate in Nikko, Takayama, and Kanazawa. 
Summary
Although Japan can be challenging as a vegetarian if you just wander into any restaurant, with some planning you can find some amazing meat-free meals. The delicious food is one of the reasons we keep returning to the country. I hope this post helps you enjoy it as much as we do. 
For more Japan tips see our post on planning a trip to Japan for everything you need to know. 
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duncanbarker-blog · 6 years ago
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It’s easy to be vegetarian in Kyoto. As Japan’s ancient capital, it has a long tradition of shojin ryori or Zen Buddhist temple cuisine, which is entirely vegan and includes multiple small dishes using seasonal ingredients.
Eating in a temple is a highlight of a visit to the city, but there are many other vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Kyoto, both modern and traditional. There is also an increasing number of traditional restaurants that specialise in one dish, like ramen or gyoza, that now provide meat-free options.
As I emphasise in our guide to surviving as a vegetarian in Japan, planning is key. You will likely struggle if you wander into a random restaurant as dashi (fish broth) is used in many dishes. It’s best to use the Happy Cow app to find veggie-friendly meals nearby.
We recently spent a month in the city tracking down the best vegetarian food in Kyoto from casual ramen joints to sophisticated multi-course meals. Most of the vegetarian restaurants serve set lunches which include an array of seasonal dishes for a healthy, balanced, delicious, and affordable meal.
Many of these restaurants are small, family-run places and were sometimes closed when we expected them to be open. It’s worth checking their Facebook pages before you visit for any unexpected closures (you may have to use Google Translate). It’s always a good idea to have a backup plan. Google Maps is the easiest way to find your way around (see the map below).
I’ve included current prices but they are subject to change. The current exchange rate is approximately 1 USD = 106 yen and 1 GBP = 129 yen. Note that most restaurants don’t accept credit cards. 7-Eleven is the best place to withdraw cash with international cards for free.
You might also be interested in my vegetarian Tokyo and vegetarian Osaka guides.
Vegetarian Kyoto Map
Kyoto Vegetarian Restaurants
All these restaurants and cafes are entirely vegetarian (some are vegan), so you can safely choose anything from the menu.
1) Shigetsu (TOP PICK)
The best place to try Zen Buddhist cuisine or shojin ryori in Kyoto is at Shigetsu inside Tenryu-ji temple. It’s located in the Arashiyama neighbourhood in the western hills and you can combine lunch with a day visiting the temples, bamboo forest, and other attractions in this lovely area.
You dine on the floor in a large tatami mat room with no tables or chairs and views of the temple’s garden (apparently you can request a chair). For a while we had the huge empty space to ourselves.
We ordered the cheapest lunch set and were served multiple small dishes on a red lacquer tray. We couldn’t identify much of what we were eating, but that’s part of the culinary adventure and is the closest vegetarians can come to kaiseki (Japanese fine dining).
We later learned that the mysterious jelly-like cubes were konnyaku, known in English as Devil’s Tongue, which is made from the root of the tuberous plant konjac.
Other dishes included goma dofu (sesame tofu), yuba (sheets of soy milk skin), nasu dengaku (eggplant grilled with miso), nama-fu (raw wheat gluten), pickles, mushroom and cucumber salad in a sesame sauce, and pumpkin soup.
The food ranged from exquisite to odd and we loved the opportunity to try random things knowing that it was all meat-free, something we don’t often get to do.
It’s best to make a reservation on their website at least three days in advance, but you might be able to get the basic set if you just turn up.
Cost: 3300 yen, 5500 yen or 8000 yen for lunch set including rice, soup and five, six, or seven side dishes. You must also pay the 500 yen temple entrance fee. Details: Inside Tenryu-ji temple, Arashiyama. Open from 11 am – 2 pm every day. Website: Shigetsu website. 
2) Hobodo Cafe (TOP PICK)
This cute vegan cafe has a relaxed, vintage vibe with mismatched furniture and shelves of books. It’s in a quiet, off-the-beaten-track residential neighbourhood, but it’s only a 15-minute walk from Gion.
The friendly couple who run Hobodo Cafe speak some English and provide an English menu. You have the choice of curry, the set lunch, or a takeaway bento box.
We had the excellent value set lunch and it was one of our favourites in Kyoto. It includes rice, miso soup, and seven side dishes—ours included delicious dumplings and various vegetables.
Cost: 1000 yen for lunch set. Details: 東大路西入 正往寺町452 仁王門アパート1F. Open from 11 am – 5.30 pm (3 pm on Tuesday). Closed Wednesday and Thursday. They may run out of food later in the day. Check Facebook for special closures. Website: Hobodo Cafe Facebook Page. 
3) Little Heaven
Vegan sushi at Little Heaven
For high-end, creative vegan cuisine, head to Little Heaven. They make a modern version of shojin ryori—there are many courses of beautifully presented, seasonal dishes but some westernised dishes are mixed with the traditional Japanese.
We were seated in a private room on a western-style table and chairs overlooking a small garden. Highlights of our meal included yuba cooked in various ways, an impressive plate of sushi (replicating eel, tuna, and scallops), and an incredibly creamy matcha tofu cheesecake. There were so many beautiful touches like vegetables shaped like butterflies.
It’s in the Arashiyama area but a few train stops from the main area. You need to book at least three days in advance, but a few weeks is better. You can email [email protected].
Cost: 5000 yen for set menu plus 8% tax and 5% service. Details: Sagano hirakichou 8–29 Ukyou-ku. Open from 1 pm – 7 pm. Irregular opening days. Website: Little Heaven website. 
4) Padma
This Kyoto vegetarian restaurant has eclectic decor, large windows overlooking the Kamo river, and a small range of vegan products for sale.
At lunch there are two set meals and a curry plate. I got the most expensive Peaceful lunch set which included rice, soup, and lots of small dishes. It included a few soy meat dishes (deep fried and in curry) which I don’t usually like, but it was well prepared and the vegetables balanced it out.
Simon enjoyed the curry which was a generous amount of food but less variety than the lunch set.
Cost: 1000 yen for curry, 1200 yen – 1500 yen for lunch set. Details: 2nd floor of Ebisu building (the door is to the left of Lawsons), Shimozutsumi-cho, 82. Open from 12 pm – 7 pm (lunch until 3 pm). Closed Thursday. Website: Padma website. 
5) Veg Out
Obanzai set lunch at Veg Out
Veg Out has a great location with views of the Kamo River.
The vegan menu includes Buddha bowls and paninis but our favourite dish was the obanzai lunch set which includes rice, soup, salad, and a mix of Japanese and international dishes.
The raw mint chocolate cheesecake and kombucha were also delicious and they have a small bulk buy section including granola.
Cost: 1500 yen for obanzai lunch set. Other dishes from 1000 yen. Details: 1F, 44 Inari-cho, Shimogyo-ku. Open from 8 am – 8 pm (lunch from noon – 3 pm). Closed Mondays and some irregular days (check Facebook). Website: Veg Out website and Facebook page. 
6) Cafe Waka at Otera House ( 和香)
Cafe Waka offers delicious vegetarian Buddhist set lunches. The location is a little off-the-beaten-track (we were the only tourists there), but it’s only a 15-minute walk across the river from Gion.
Our set lunch included tea, rice, miso soup, pickles, deep-fried soy meatballs, leafy greens with tofu, cold silken tofu in miso sauce, and vegetables in mayonnaise. It’s great value and you can also get an even cheaper lunch box to take away.
I believe most, if not all, dishes are vegan but it’s best to check.
Cost: 1000 yen for lunch set and 600 yen for takeaway lunch box. Details: 397–9 Shinkaichō, Shimogyō-ku. Open from 11.30 am – 3 pm on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Website: Otera House website and Happy Cow listing.  
7) Vegans Cafe and Restaurant
BBQ tofu rice bowl at Vegans Cafe
This Kyoto vegan cafe is just a 15-minute walk from one of the city’s top attractions, the Fushimi Inari shrine.
The most popular dish is the charcoal-grilled deep-fried tofu rice bowl where the vegan chef applies his BBQ skills as a former roast meat restaurant owner. It’s seriously good (get the large unless you aren’t very hungry). The soy milk miso ramen is huge and is packed full of veggies and tofu.
They also sell some vegan products and fresh vegetables.
Cost: 1080 yen for large BBQ tofu rice bowl. Details: Fushimi-ku Fukakusa Nishi Uramachi 4-chome 88. Open from 11.30 am – 4.30 pm (until 8.30 pm on Saturday). Closed Wednesday. Website: Vegans Cafe Facebook page. 
8) Yoshuji
Yoshuji is a vegetarian restaurant in the village of Kurama in the mountains north of Kyoto. One of our favourite things to do in Kyoto is take the train to Kibune and hike through the forest to Kurama where you can visit the beautiful Kurama-dera temple and finish with lunch at Yoshuji.
The restaurant is in a cosy Japanese farmhouse with an irori (fire pit) in the centre. You can order a bowl of noodles or shojin ryori set lunches.
We chose the cheapest set which came with rice, miso soup, pickles, enoki mushrooms, goma dofu (chilled sesame tofu), mashed tofu with wild greens, mashed yam with seaweed, and konnyaku served like sashimi with a dark miso sauce.
Yoshuji is halfway up the stairs leading to Kurama-dera on the right hand side (or left as you come down as we did after hiking from Kibune). There is an English menu outside.
Cost: Noodles from 1200 yen and sets from 2100 yen – 3000 yen. Details: 1074–2 Kuramahonmachi, Sakyō-ku. Open from 10 am – 6 pm. Closed Tuesday. Website: Yoshuji website. 
Vegetarian-Friendly Restaurants in Kyoto
Some of the best vegetarian food in Kyoto isn’t found in vegetarian restaurants. The restaurants below serve meat and fish, but they also cater for vegetarians (and often vegans).
They are good options for dinner as most of the vegetarian restaurants only open for lunch. You can try classic Japanese dishes like ramen, gyoza, and okonomiyaki in a typical setting.
9) Mimikou for Udon (TOP PICK)
Vegetarian Curry Udon with tempura at Mimikou
On our latest visit to Kyoto, Mimikou is the place we ate the most. This traditional udon (wheat flour noodle) restaurant is located near Yasaka Shrine and is popular with tourists. 
Two pages of the English menu are dedicated to vegetarian dishes including ramen and curry donburi (rice bowls), but best of all is the curry udon.
Our favourite dish was the kitsune (fried tofu) curry udon with vegetable tempura, which is fantastic comfort food. You can choose your type of udon (we liked the regular noodles which are quite thick), spice level (medium was ideal for us), and any extra toppings.
The vegetarian menu is vegan except for the option to add egg. They confirm that they do not use dashi in the soup.
It can be messy so use the paper bib the staff bring you!
Cost: Kitsune curry udon is 885 yen (1123 yen with tempura). Details: 528–6 Gionmachi Minamigawa. Open from 11.30 am – 8.30 pm. Closed Tuesday. Website: Mimikou Happy Cow listing. 
10) Omen Kodai-ji for Udon
Vegan udon set at Omen Kodai-ji
While we prefer the udon at Mimikou, you can try a different type of vegan udon at Omen Kodai-ji, which is conveniently located in the heart of the Higashiyama sightseeing area.
They offer a vegan version of their set which includes thick udon noodles, vegetables, sesame seeds, tempura, and dashi-free soup. You add your own vegetables and noodles to the soup.
Cost: 1800 yen for the vegan udon set. Details: 362–2 Masuyachō, Higashiyama-ku. Open from 11 am – 9 pm (but I think it closes between lunch and dinner and reopens at 6 pm). Closed Thursday. There’s also a branch near Ginkaku-ji temple. Website: Omen website. 
11) ChaoChao for Gyoza (TOP PICK)
This gyoza bar is a fun place for a drink and a quick, inexpensive meal. The staff are friendly and speak some English.
The Shijo-Kawaramachi branch of Gyoza ChaoChao has a vegetarian menu in English with five types of vegetarian gyoza plus side dishes like bean sprout salad. Vegan options are marked on the menu but are much more limited (only the yuba gyoza and a chocolate and banana dessert gyoza).
All the gyoza we tried were delicious including mashed potato, yuba, mushroom risotto with cheese, and shibazuke (soy pulp and pickles).
Cost: 1500 yen for a set including two gyoza, one side, and a drink. 430 yen for one portion of gyoza. Details: Shijo-Kawaramachi branch at  河原町通四条下ル順風町312–1. Open from 11.30 am – 3 pm and 5 pm – 11 pm (all day on weekends). Website: Gyoza ChaoChao Happy Cow listing. 
12) Chabuton for Ramen
Chabuton is a ramen chain that offers vegan ramen and gyoza. We first went here in Osaka and it became our favourite place to eat near Kyoto Station (it’s on the 6th floor of the Yodobashi camera store).
When you arrive, order and pay at the vending machine. The machine is in Japanese but if you look at the English menu you can compare the items you need—the vegan ramen and gyoza are marked as green on the menu.
Once you have the ticket give it to the staff and tell them you want the vegetable gyoza (the meat gyoza shares the same button).
The ramen comes quickly and is packed with vegetables including avocado, okra, tomato, and radish. You can jazz it up with condiments like chilli that are provided on the table. The gyoza are delicious too.
Cost: 750 yen for ramen and 320 yen for gyoza. Details: 6th floor of Yodobashi on Karasuma dori near Kyoto Station. Open from 11 am – 11 pm. Website: Chabuton Happy Cow listing. 
13) Tokkyu Ramen for Ramen
This basic ramen joint near Yasaka shrine has no English sign so look for the red lantern and hand-written sign saying vegetarian and vegan ramen.
They offer one vegan ramen made with a creamy sesame miso broth topped with bean sprouts, cabbage, green onions, bamboo shoots, and sesame seeds. We prefer Chabuton, but this location is convenient when sightseeing in Gion.
Cost: 850 yen for vegan ramen. Details: 30–4 Bishamonchō, Higashiyama-ku. Open from 11.30 am – midnight. Closed Wednesday. Website: Tokkyu Ramen Happy Cow listing. 
14) Tosuiro for Tofu
Kyoto is famous for its tofu and there are a number of restaurants that specialise in it, but they usually use dashi.
The Gion branch of Tosuiro offers a vegan set menu if you book at least a day in advance (three days if you email). It’s not cheap but it is an unusual experience and the setting is traditional in a 130-year-old merchant house.
You’ll experience tofu in all its forms including goma dofu (sesame tofu), yuba (soy milk skin), yudofu (a simmering pot of tofu and greens), and grilled miso-glazed dengaku tofu. We did get a little tofued out but are glad we tried it.
Cost: 6237 yen (including tax and service) for Rokuhara vegan set. Details: 38–1, Bisyamonten-Cho. Open from 11.30 am – 3 pm and 5 pm – 10 pm. Closed Tuesday. Website: Tosuiro website. 
15) Teppan Tavern Tenamonya for Okonomiyaki
Hokkaido okonomiyaki and yasaka soba
Teppan Tavern Tenamonya is not the place to go if you are offended by meat being cooked next to you, but it’s a good choice if you are travelling with a meat eater who wants to try the famous wagyu beef.
It’s a small izakaya (pub) with counter seating and a grill in front of you to keep the food hot. Most of the guests are foreigners these days as it’s close to Yasaka shrine, is ranked highly on Tripadvisor, has an English menu, and is run by a friendly couple. It’s so popular that booking at least two days in advance (further in high season) is essential (I emailed).
Despite the meat focus, they offer a number of tasty vegetarian dishes including okonomiyaki (the Hokkaido version was good), yasaka soba (fried noodles with vegetables), and fried potato with cheese.
Cost: 950 yen for Hokkaido vegetarian okonomiyaki. Details: B1F, 537–2 Gionmachi Minamigawa. Open from 5 pm – 11 pm. Closed Thursdays. Website: Teppan Tavern Tenamonya website. 
16) CoCo Icibanya for Japanese Curry
Vegetarian menu at CoCo Ichibanya
Looking for the nearest CoCo Ichibanya is one of the easiest ways to find a vegetarian meal in Japan. Most branches of this Japanese curry chain have a separate vegetarian menu—look for signs on the window or for the green menu at the tables. The regular English menu is helpful to explain the ordering process.
You choose your fillings (we usually get vegetables and eggplant), spice level (3 is pretty spicy), and size of rice portion. It’s tasty, filling, inexpensive, and quick.
We went to CoCo Ichibanya Keihan Shichijo but there are many branches. I check the Google Maps reviews to see if anyone mentions the vegetarian menu.
Cost for a Main Dish: Vegetarian curries from 654 yen to 911 yen. Details: Various branches. Open from 11 am – midnight (some branches 11 pm or 1 am). Website: CoCo Ichibanya website.
International Vegetarian Food in Kyoto
On short trips to Japan we usually stick to Japanese food as it’s so good, but as we were there for over two months on our last trip, we did fancy something different occasionally.
Here are our favourite international restaurants for vegetarian food in Kyoto.
Pettirosso – This friendly izakaya is run by an Italian guy and his Japanese wife who cooks up delicious Italian/Japanese fusion. They do serve fish but have plenty of vegetarian and vegan options clearly marked on the menu. The 1500 yen dinner set is good value. It’s only open in the evenings from 5 pm and booking is a good idea.
Que Pasa – Surprisingly delicious burritos with vegetarian and vegan options. It’s run by Japanese guys who lived in California so they know what they’re doing.
Ain Soph – This popular vegan restaurant isn’t our favourite, but if you’re craving a veggie burger they are pretty good.
Kyoto Beer Lab – Cool brewpub on our favourite canal street. You can get a tasting flight of beers with vegan snacks like soy meat red wine stew, edamame, and vegetable sticks with dip. Not the best for a filling meal, though.
Pizzeria Da Naghino – Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza.
E-Fish – Western-style cafe with big windows overlooking the river. We liked the French toast and smoothies.
Vegetarian Cooking Class in Kyoto
Taking a cooking class is the best way to learn more about Japanese cuisine and familiarise yourself with the unusual ingredients like yuba (soy milk skin tofu) that are often found in vegetarian Japanese cuisine.
We took a private class in the home of Emi Hirayama of Uzuki Cooking who is happy to cater to vegetarians. Read about our Kyoto cooking class experience. 
Next time, I’d like to take this vegan ramen cooking class on Airbnb Experiences which has fantastic reviews. It’s in Ibaraki which is 20 minutes from JR Kyoto station by train. 
Other Japan Vegetarian Guides
Vegetarian Survival Guide to Japan
The Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Tokyo
The Best Osaka Vegetarian Restaurants
2 Week Japan Itinerary
I hope you enjoy eating your way around Kyoto as a vegetarian as much as we did! There are many more vegetarian restaurants that we didn’t have time to try. Leave a comment below if you have any more recommendations.
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duncanbarker-blog · 6 years ago
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Tokyo is one of the foodie capitals of the world, but it doesn’t have the best reputation for vegetarians. It’s true that if you wander into a random restaurant you’ll struggle to avoid meat and fish, but with a little planning you can find amazing vegetarian food in Tokyo.
The food is a highlight of Tokyo for us and the quality is outstanding from high-end restaurants to simple ramen shops.
Most guides to vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo focus on westernised places serving veggie burgers, salads, and smoothies. But Japanese food is so delicious that we always want to eat as much of the national cuisine as possible.
On our last few trips to Tokyo we made it our mission to find the best vegetarian-friendly Japanese food in Tokyo whether that was at vegan cafes or traditional Japanese restaurants that specialise in one type of cuisine.
The vegetarian scene has grown hugely in recent years and there are now so many tasty veggie eats in Tokyo if you know where to look.
This post was originally published in October 2017 and updated in 2019 after our latest trip to Tokyo.
The current exchange rate is approximately 1 USD = 106 yen and 1 GBP = 128 yen.
Where to Stay in Tokyo for Vegetarians and Vegans
I think Shinjuku and Shibuya are the best areas to stay in Tokyo for vegetarians. It makes life much easier being in walking distance of some vegetarian-friendly restaurants as you don’t always want to trek across the city after a long day sightseeing. 
Shinjuku is our favourite area. There’s a major station, beautiful park, a number of attractions, and we preferred the veggie restaurants here compared to Shibuya (where they are more expensive and westernised). 
I also recommend staying in an Airbnb apartment or a hostel with a kitchen so that you’ll have the option to prepare some of your own meals. Even being able to boil water for some T’s Tantan instant ramen makes life easier when you just want a quick meal. 
There are plenty of Airbnbs in Tokyo and they are often cheaper than a hotel room. 
We stayed in this studio apartment in Shinjuku which is small but well-equipped and in the perfect location. 
Vegetarian Tokyo Map
Vegan Ramen in Tokyo
Ramen in Japan is almost always made with pork or fish broth so we didn’t have any on our first visit in 2011. Happily, there are now a few options for vegan ramen in Tokyo and it was fantastic being able to try this classic dish which makes a tasty, inexpensive, and quick meal.
1) T’s Tantan (TOP PICK)
Midori vegan ramen at T’s Tantan (this flavour is no longer available on the menu)
T’s Tantan is an entirely vegan ramen restaurant in Tokyo Station! This is so convenient if you are passing through the massive station where many of the city’s local trains and bullet trains around the country depart.
There are many different ramen choices including white, black or gold sesame, shoyu (soy sauce), tonkotsu, and mapo tofu. We had the mapo on our latest visit and found it nicely spicy, full of flavour, and packed with greens. 
Mapo ramen and gyoza set
All the ramen contain soy meat, which we’re not fans of, but they are small, rather innocuous chunks that didn’t bother us.
The gyoza are good too, so it’s worth getting a set that includes them. 
We always buy some of their instant ramen pots to take away for a cheap, easy meal on another day.
Cost for a Main Dish: 850-950 yen for ramen (300 yen extra to add gyoza). Details: Keiyo Street food hall in JR Tokyo Station. Follow signs for the Keiyo line. 7 am – 10.30 pm every day (limited menu before 11 am). Website: Happy Cow listing. 
2) Shinjuku Gyoen Ramen Ouka
Spicy vegan ramen at Ramen Ouka
Shinjuku Gyoen Ramen Ouka is a typical small ramen restaurant with counter seating where you order and pay at the vending machine by the door (it’s in English) then hand your ticket to the chef behind the counter.
It’s a halal restaurant that also offers a vegan ramen—spicy or normal in regular, large, or extra large size. The staff spoke good English and were very friendly, so don’t worry if you’re not sure how it all works.
Although we preferred T’s Tantan’s softer noodles, we loved the spicy broth here (level 3 was really spicy!) and the chunks of broccoli, peppers, courgette, and corn. The regular size was plenty for me but Simon polished off his large.
It was quiet when we visited on a Saturday lunchtime in shoulder season, but it can get very busy so try to arrive early to avoid queuing. You can make a reservation on their website, but you’ll have to book the 3500 yen set menu including soy meat grill, curry, soft drink, and dessert (and pay in advance).
There are many great veggie-friendly places to eat in this neighbourhood, which is one of the reasons why we think Shinjuku is the best area to stay in Tokyo. 
Cost for a Main Dish: From 1100 yen for a regular vegan ramen. Details: 東京都新宿区新宿1–11–7. Near Shinjuku Gyoen Gardens. 2 pm – 10 pm on weekdays, from 6 pm on Fridays and 1 pm on weekends. Website: Facebook page. Website (for bookings). 
3) Kyushu Jangara Ramen
This ramen chain has an English menu with a page dedicated to its vegan ramen. It describes it as vegan salt ramen (yuzu flavour) and it comes topped with a vegetarian version of char-siu that looks like meat but tastes like tofu, as well as bamboo shoots, toasted seaweed, green onions, and bean sprouts.
You can also order it as a Buddhist version without the five pungent roots.
The broth is lightly flavoured, but there are free condiments on the counter, and it was delicious when we added chilli and garlic. 
There are branches across the city. We went to the Ikebukuro shop in a shopping mall above the station after visiting the Sky Circus Observation Deck.
Cost for a Main Dish: 1000 yen for vegan ramen (1200 yen if you add extra toppings). Details: Various branches including Ikebukuro, Harajuku, Akihabara, Ginza, and Akasaka. Open 11 am – 10.30 pm. Website: Kyushu Jangara Ramen.
4) Afuri
Seasonal vegan ramen at Afuri
Afuri is a ramen chain that offers a vegan ramen packed with seasonal vegetables. You buy a ticket from the vending machine then take a seat at the counter. Our ramen looked beautiful and the noodles were good, but the vegetables were undercooked and the soy broth wasn’t very flavourful.
Despite being our least favourite ramen, it’s still a decent option if there’s nothing else around as there are many branches all over Tokyo. I would choose Kyushu Jangara instead if there’s one nearby. 
Cost for a Main Dish: 1480 yen for vegan ramen. Details: Various branches including Shinjuku, Ebisu, Harajuku, and Roppongi. Website: Afuri. 
Vegan and Vegetarian Restaurants in Tokyo
There are many vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo. Many of them serve western dishes so we focused on ones with Japanese cuisine, often a set lunch including multiple dishes, rice, miso soup, and pickles. It’s usually much cheaper to eat at lunch than at dinner.
Another place that sounded good but we ran out of time for was Sougo, which serves modern shojin ryori in Roppongi. 
5) Bon (TOP PICK)
The outside of Bon restaurant
Bon is our favourite vegetarian restaurant in Tokyo—it’s an experience as much as a meal. They specialise in fucha ryori, a version of shojin ryori (Zen Buddhist vegan cuisine), which I think every vegetarian in Japan should try at least once.
Bon is a beautiful, tranquil space with miniature gardens, fountains, and a cobbled stone corridor leading to eight private tatami mat rooms with sliding paper doors.
We ate on low chairs in a room decorated simply with a scroll, flower arrangement, and window onto a little garden of plants, pagoda, and rocks.
Our private tatami room at Bon
We had the lunch menu which consisted of 12 courses using seasonal ingredients, so in autumn we had lots of mushrooms, chestnuts, and pumpkin. They gave us a leaflet in English with the concept and courses to expect and then explained each dish as they brought it to us.
It was an incredible meal. Every dish was exquisite with delicate flavours and a remarkable attention to detail. Nothing is placed on the plate by chance—it all has a purpose and meaning.
The “moon party” of pumpkin dumplings with white shiitake mushrooms
Ingredients are unusual and some dishes are odd if you aren’t used to shojin ryori, but it’s all part of the adventure.
Our meal began with chrysanthemum tea and included a chestnut covered in crunchy macha noodles, various soups, pumpkin dumplings (representing the moon), chilled sesame tofu, and tempura, including a delicate somen noodle tempura that was like a work of art.
Somen noodle and vegetable tempura
The most intriguing dish was the shun kan or “decoratively presented vegetables” (see top photo), a beautiful plate featuring a chestnut, konnyaku (a plant-based jelly), mushrooms, fried dumpling, pink pickled ginger root stick, and some delicious but unidentifiable bits.
Bon is not cheap—our lunch menu was 5000 yen each plus 15% tax and service—but it is totally worth it for a unique Japanese experience.
Cost for a Main Dish: 3450 or 5000 yen for lunch and from 6000 yen to 10,000 yen for dinner. Plus 15% tax and service. Details: 1–2–11 Ryusen Taito-ku. Lunch and dinner every day except Wednesday. Phone reservations in advance are essential. Our Airbnb host booked for us but they do speak some English. It’s out of the way on a quiet residential street, but you could combine it with a visit to Sensoji temple or Ueno Park, which are fairly close. Website: Fucha Bon.
6) Milk Land (TOP PICK)
Our vegetarian lunch sets at Milk Land
Milk Land is a cute little Tokyo vegetarian restaurant near Shinjuku Station. It’s great value and the food is more traditional than many of the veggie places.
There’s no menu, just a vegetarian lunch set with six vegetable and tofu dishes plus rice and miso soup—all you have to do is choose white or brown rice in small, medium or large (the price is the same). They spoke some English and could make it vegan.
Milk Land is in the New State Manor Building—walk around the outside of the building to the right and look for the cow outside. It gets busy during the Japanese lunch hour of 12 pm to 1 pm. 
Cost for a Main Dish: 900 yen for lunch set. Details: 2–23–1 Yoyogi, New State Manor Building 1F. 11.30 am – 6 pm Monday to Friday. Website: Happy Cow listing. 
7) Nagi Shokudo
Curry lunch set at Nagi Shokudo
Nagi Shokudo is a vegan restaurant in Shibuya with a mix of Japanese and international cuisine. At lunch you can choose from three set menus—fried soy meat, curry with rice and a deli item, and the lunch plate where you choose three of their changing deli items with brown rice, miso soup and pickles. They also have vegan cakes and cookies.
Simon enjoyed the curry and I liked my tofu in chilli miso sauce, dal wada (fried lentil ball), and potato salad. It’s a good option for an affordable lunch.
Cost for a Main Dish: 1000 yen for lunch set. Details: Uguisudanicho 15–10, Royal Palace Shibuya 103. 12 pm – 3 pm and 6 pm – 11 pm Monday to Saturday. It’s a 10-minute walk from Shibuya Station south exit next door to Pinosalice Trattoria and Wine Bar. Website: Happy Cow listing.
8) Brown Rice Cafe
Seasonal set lunch with grilled tofu at Brown Rice Cafe
Brown Rice Cafe is a stylish organic vegetarian restaurant in Harajuku, an upmarket area near Shibuya. They serve traditional Japanese set lunches and you can choose from curry, steamed vegetables, and the seasonal set menu.
I enjoyed the day’s dish of grilled miso tofu with two vegetable dishes, pickles, brown rice, and miso soup, and as always, Simon had the curry. Everything is vegan except for honey in some drinks.
The food was tasty and healthy, and I recommend it if you are in the area (we preferred it to nearby Mominoki House), but it’s a lot more expensive than other lunch sets.
Cost for a Main Dish: 1700 yen for lunch set plus an extra 500 yen on weekends. Details: 5–1–8 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku (part of Neal’s Yard Remedies). 11.30 am – 6 pm every day. Website: Neal’s Yard.
9) Slow Food and Wine KiboKo
KiboKo is a cute vegan wine bar near Shinjuku Gyoen (our favourite area to stay in Tokyo). It’s ideal if you want to relax with a drink and a few tapas, but it’s not the best option if you are feeling hungry. 
Dishes are small, quite pricey, and not particularly Japanese. We did enjoy the coriander gyoza and Spanish tortilla, but the more substantial options (teriyaki, chilli) were too fake-meat heavy for our tastes.  
Note that everyone must order a drink (non-alcoholic is fine), as is common in many Japanese bars.
Cost: We spent 5000 yen on five small dishes and three glasses of wine.  Details: 4th Floor, 2 Chome-5-8 Shinjuku. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 5 pm – 11 pm.  Website: Happy Cow listing. 
Vegetarian-Friendly Japanese Restaurants in Tokyo
One of the reasons why restaurants in Japan are so good is that many chefs specialise in just one type of food and perfect it over a lifetime. We had some of our best meals in non-vegetarian Japanese restaurants.
While it can be more challenging explaining your dietary requirements, all these places can cater for vegetarians, and we preferred eating in traditional Japanese environments without other tourists.
10) Curry House CoCo Ichibanya (Japanese Curry)
Vegetable and eggplant vegetarian curry at CoCo Ichibanya
Curry is a popular comfort food in Japan, and while Japanese curry is different from Indian curry, it’s just as delicious. Many curry places offer a vegetable curry, but it’s likely the roux contains meat.
Happily, CoCo Ichibanya, Japan’s largest curry chain, now offers a vegan curry at many of its branches. You need to look out for the special green vegetarian menu where you’ll find many options including vegetable and eggplant (my favourite), spinach, mushroom, and asparagus and tomato.
Vegetarian menu at CoCo Ichibanya
Before you order have a look at the normal English menu for customisation options. You can add toppings, choose the amount of rice (standard is quite a lot), and select your spice level from mild to 10 (3 is definitely spicy).
As CoCo Ichibanya has branches all over Japan it’s a fantastic option for a cheap, quick, and tasty meal while travelling the country.
Cost for a Main Dish: Vegetarian curry from 654 yen – 911 yen. Details: Many branches but the vegetarian menu is not available everywhere (check Google Maps or Trip Advisor reviews to check if they do). We went to the Shinjuku Station West Exit branch on Memory Lane and to one near Shibuya Station. Website: CoCo Ichibanya.
11) Tsunahachi (Tempura)
Tsunahachi vegetarian tempura lunch set
Tsunahachi is a famous tempura restaurant founded in 1923. There are a number of branches in Tokyo and we went to the one on the 13th floor of the Takashimaya department store in Shinjuku.
The menu is in Japanese but one of the staff members spoke some English and explained that we had a choice of various set lunches. We chose the most basic option, said we were vegetarian and asked to have it with just vegetables, which was no problem.
We sat at the counter and watched the chef frying our vegetables and passing them to us straight out of the pan, two at a time. The batter was light and crispy and the vegetables perfectly cooked. They kept on coming and we ended up with nine pieces of tempura, which was more than enough.
Our lunch set also included rice, pickles, grated daikon, miso soup, and tentsuyu dipping sauce. The soup and sauce are most likely made with dashi (fish broth), so we skipped them and used the four excellent salts (plain, konbu, wasabi, and red perilla) for seasoning instead. Tsunahachi has a handy English guide to eating tempura.
Cost for a Main Dish: 1700 yen for lunch set. More expensive at dinner. Details: Various branches in Tokyo plus Kyoto and Hokkaido. The main branch is in Shinjuku. Website: Tsunahachi. 
12) Zen (Okonomiyaki) (TOP PICK)
Okonomiyaki being made at Zen
Okonomiyaki is a kind of cabbage pancake that usually contains meat or seafood but can be made vegetarian. Zen is the perfect option for vegetarians in Shinjuku as they have an English menu with a vegetarian section at the back which explains the ingredients of the many types of okonomiyaki.
We chose the less traditional tomato special with tomato, cheese and Japanese basil and also ordered grilled vegetables. As we ordered we showed the waiter our vegetarian card that stated what we can’t eat in Japanese. He then asked the chef to make ours without dashi, so it’s a good idea to check on this.
The okonomiyaki is not vegan but they have a small vegan menu with some noodle and vegetables dishes. 
Zen has a cover charge of 220 yen but they do bring you a small appetiser—we munched on our potato salad while we watched the chef make our okonomiyaki on the counter grill.
He started with some batter and then added a heaping pile of cabbage plus other ingredients. As the cabbage cooks it reduces in size and becomes a thick pancake. Ours was served topped with lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise. It was crispy and gooey and utterly delicious.
Tomato special vegetarian okonomiyaki at Zen
Grilled vegetables
Cost for a Main Dish: 870 yen for a basic okonomiyaki, 1300 yen for tomato special. Details: 東京都新宿区新宿5–10–9花政ビル1F, Shinjuku. 5 pm – midnight every day. Website: Zen. 
13) Sorano (Tofu)
Tofu made at the table plus fried tofu, pickles, and vegetables in tofu skin
For a special meal without a huge price tag, Sorano in Shibuya is a great option. It specialises in tofu, but in Japan that doesn’t mean everything is vegetarian. At Sorano there are plenty of vegetarian options marked on the English menu.
It’s a classy, traditional restaurant with a fish pond and fountain at the entrance and a pebble corridor leading to private tatami areas and counter seating. As we hadn’t booked we sat at the counter.
We ordered most of our dishes from the appetiser section and shared tapas style. The tofu comes in so many different forms from crispy deep fried tofu with miso (so good!), chilled avocado tofu, and grilled eggplant and vegetables rolled in tofu skin.
Sorano’s special tofu is made at your table—it’s velvety smooth, but be aware that the soy sauce accompaniment contains dashi. Tempura is also available.
Even if you don’t think you like tofu, give Sorano a try as Japanese tofu is far better than anywhere else.
Cost for a Main Dish: Small dishes from 700 yen. Details: 4, Sakuragaokacho 17, Shibuya. 5 pm – 11 pm. Closed Mondays.  Website: Trip Advisor listing. 
14) Masumoto (Bento)
The Masumoto stall on the B1 floor of Isetan
I’ve been wanting to try a bento for years and finally found a place that does vegan versions. The Japanese have made lunch boxes into an art form with an array of beautifully presented, balanced, and healthy small dishes. They are ideal for long train rides and picnics. 
Masumoto is one of the many bento stalls in the huge food hall in the basement of the Isetan department store near Shinjuku Station and Shinjuku Gyoen. 
All the signs are in Japanese so there’s no easy way to find the right stand. We looked for the logo we’d seen on a photo of a box on Happy Cow. 
Look out for bentos with this logo and you’ll know you’ve found the right stand
Once you find Masumoto ask for a “macrobi bento”. They knew what we meant and confirmed there was no meat or fish in it. 
Unfortunately, they sell out of the vegan boxes early in the day, so at 11.50 am on a Saturday they only had one small box left. I recommend going when they open at 10 am if possible. 
We took our bento (plus some extra snacks from the food hall) to Shinjuku Gyoen for a lovely picnic under the late blooming cherry trees (well worth the 500 yen entry fee). 
Our vegan macrobi bento made the perfect picnic
Our box included rice mixed with vegetables, various vegetables, tofu, creamy mushrooms, and mochi for dessert. We couldn’t identify everything but it was all tasty. 
Cost for a Main Dish: Our small bento was 1080 yen. Larger boxes are more expensive. Details: B1F of Isetan Department Store, 3-chōme-14-1, Shinjuku. Open from 10 am. They often sell out by noon. Website: Masumoto Happy Cow listing. 
Vegetarian Cooking Class in Tokyo
Taking a vegetarian cooking class while you are in Japan is a fun way to learn more about Japanese cuisine and enjoy a delicious meal.
We haven’t done one in Tokyo yet, but this vegan class with a Michelin chef in Shibuya looks great as does this five-course vegetarian meal in Ikebukuro (just a few stops from Shinjuku on the train). 
Tips for Vegetarians in Tokyo
Search on the Happy Cow app or website to find the nearest vegetarian or vegan restaurant—there are plenty in Tokyo.
It’s also worth searching on TripAdvisor and ticking the “Vegetarian-Friendly” or “Vegan Options” filter to find Japanese places that can cater for vegetarians. This can be hit or miss, so check the reviews.
Tabelog is the Japanese equivalent of TripAdvisor and you can search for places that have a vegetarian menu, but there’s not much information or reviews in English. 
Print off some vegetarian or vegan cards from Just Hungry with exactly what you can’t eat written in Japanese. It made things much easier and helped us avoid dashi.
Make sure your phone is unlocked and buy a data SIM card when you arrive in Japan. We bought one from the Umobile vending machine at Narita airport. This will make it so much easier to find restaurants using Google Maps or look up your nearest veggie option on Happy Cow.
Japanese restaurants often stop serving 30–60 minutes before closing time.
At most restaurants you are given the bill and go up to the counter to pay.
Credit cards are rarely accepted so stock up on cash—7–Eleven is the best option for international cards.
More Japan Guides
See my vegetarian Japan guide for more survival tips and veggie-friendly Japanese dishes to try.
Check out our favourite cool things to do in Tokyo from the quirky to the traditional. 
Read our detailed Japan itinerary for where we went and what we ate during one of our two week trips around the country.
We also have a guide to the best Osaka vegetarian restaurants.
With a little planning we ate so well in Tokyo and we can’t wait to return to the city and eat some more! What are your favourite Japanese vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo?
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Osaka is up there with Kyoto and Tokyo as one of the most vegetarian-friendly cities in Japan. We found a wide range of vegan restaurants as well as Japanese restaurants specialising in typical dishes like ramen and okonomiyaki that offered meat-free versions.
As with our vegetarian Tokyo guide, we focused on finding the best vegetarian restaurants in Osaka that serve Japanese meals. The food is so good in Japan that we wanted to take advantage and be able to try local dishes rather than eat the Western-style salads and burgers that some veggie restaurants focus on.
As with anywhere in Japan, you will struggle as a vegetarian in Osaka if you just wander into a random restaurant. Planning is key and the Happy Cow app is your best friend for finding meat-free meals nearby. Below you’ll find the vegetarian-friendly restaurants we enjoyed in Osaka so you can plan your itinerary around some of these.
As many of these restaurants are small, family-run places it’s worth checking their Facebook pages before you visit to make sure they aren’t closed (you may have to use Google Translate). It’s always a good idea to have a backup plan. Google Maps is the easiest way to find your way around (see the map below). See our vegetarian Japan post for more tips.
The current exchange rate is approximately 1 USD = 106 yen and 1 GBP = 129 yen. Note that most restaurants don’t accept credit cards. 7-Eleven is the best place to withdraw cash with international cards for free.
Where to Stay in Osaka for Vegetarians and Vegans
Staying in walking distance of at least a few vegetarian-friendly restaurants will make your stay in Osaka much easier. After a long day sightseeing, you don’t always want to trek across town to find a place to eat.
It’s also worth considering staying in an Airbnb apartment or a hostel with a kitchen so that you’ll have the option to prepare some of your own meals. There are plenty of Airbnbs in Osaka and they are often cheaper than a hotel room. 
We stayed in this one-bedroom Airbnb apartment in Shinsaibashi. The location is ideal with most of the restaurants below in walking distance. The area is quiet but there are lots of cool shops and cafes nearby, and it’s just a 20-minute walk to the vibrant Dotonburi neighbourhood.
There are a couple of metro stations nearby. The Life Nishiohashi supermarket is only a few minutes’ walk away and has a wide variety of products (including bread and cheese for a quick meal).
The apartment is the biggest place we’ve stayed in Japan with a large living/dining room and kitchen and a separate bedroom with a double bed and couch.
We visited in February when the weather was very cold—the bedroom heated up quickly but the living room took longer. The small bathroom was unheated which was the biggest downside. 
Check the prices of this Airbnb in Shinsaibashi here.
Vegetarian Osaka Map
This map shows our Airbnb and recommended restaurants. The blue pins are for vegan restaurants and the red pins for vegetarian-friendly restaurants that also serve meat.
Osaka Vegan Restaurants
More and more vegan restaurants are opening in Osaka. All these restaurants and cafes are entirely vegan, so you can safely choose anything from the menu.
1) Green Earth (TOP PICK)
Lunch set with potato and bean curry
Green Earth is the oldest Osaka vegetarian restaurant and dates back to 1991. It does have an old-school feel with simple decor, but the food is tasty and excellent value. The staff speaks English and there’s an English menu. It turned fully vegan in 2019.
The most popular dish is the lunch set meal which changes daily. It includes a choice of brown rice or a black and white rice mix with a main dish, salad, vegetable side dish, and soup. We had a tasty potato and bean curry on one visit and an okra and soy meat curry on another. You can add a kombucha to the set for just 150 yen.
The Japanese curry and rice is even cheaper and you can choose your ingredients—the sauce was so tasty I wanted to lick my plate. The vegan pumpkin cake is also delicious and won a TV award.
They also have sandwiches, salads, pizza, and pasta on the menu and sell a few vegan products like cookies, muffins, and lentils.
Cost for a Main Dish: 850 yen for lunch set and 700 yen for curry. Details: 4-chōme−2−2 Kitakyūhōjimachi, Shinshaibashi. Lunch from 11.30 am – 4 pm Monday to Saturday. Dinner only on Fridays. Closed Sundays. Website: Green Earth. 
2) Rocca (TOP PICK)
Rocca has the most traditional Japanese set meal we ate in Osaka. There’s no English menu and the owners don’t seem to speak much English, but you don’t need to order. Just take a seat at the counter in this stylish, minimalist space and you’ll be brought a lovely vegan meal.
Our set included tea, rice, miso soup, pickles, three vegetable sides, and a main dish of delicious fried balls (possibly potato) in a tasty sauce.
It’s the kind of Japanese meal I love—artful, delicate flavours, and an array of dishes that I can’t quite identify but which all taste delicious.
The location is a little out of the way, between the Namba and Umeda areas, but it’s worth a detour for a traditional Japanese meal at a great price.
Cost for a Main Dish: 1000 yen for lunch set including tea. Details: 1-chōme−1−6–6 Tosabori (Vegetarian Meals ROCCA on Google Maps). Open from 11.30 am – 2.30 pm and 6 pm – 9.45 pm. Closed Sunday. Only open for lunch on Saturday and closed the second Saturday of the month. Website: Rocca Happy Cow listing. 
3) Cafe Atl (TOP PICK)
Japanese set lunch
This organic vegan cafe is in a bright, modern space on the first floor overlooking a shopping street in Shinsaibashi. The staff speaks English and there’s a simple blackboard menu in English with details and photos of the three items—a Japanese set, fusion set, and curry set.
The curry set was good, but we preferred the Japanese set which included tea, miso soup, rice, tofu in a soy sauce dressing, fried tofu in a sweeter sauce, pickles, mushrooms, and greens. It was all delicious and felt light and healthy.
Cost for a Main Dish: 1500 yen for lunch set including drink. Details: 2 Chome–1–24, Shinshaibashi. Open from 9 am to 5 pm. Closed Tuesday. Website: Cafe Atl Facebook page. 
4) Megumi
Brown rice miso ramen at Megumi
This cosy vegan restaurant in Osaka has just a few seats at the counter and is run by one lady who cooks and serves.
The extensive menu is in English and Japanese and includes lots of Japanese dishes including set meals, curry, tempura, ramen, gyoza, and okonomiyaki. Everything is gluten-free and vegan.
My favourite dish was the natto okonomiyaki, which is often described as a Japanese pancake but felt more like a potato fritter in this case—excellent comfort food.
We also got the brown rice miso ramen set which included pickled vegetables, gyoza, and a small salad. The gyoza were good but the ramen was a little plain for our tastes (we like our ramen spicy).
Although the meal was more expensive than most of our others, it’s worth it to try a range of vegan Japanese dishes.
I recommend making a reservation (I messaged on Facebook) as it’s a small place that often closes and is quite far from everything.
Cost for a Main Dish: Ramen and gyoza set 2900 yen. Natto okonomiyaki 1880 yen. Details: 2−2−10 東寺町ビル. Open from 6 pm – 10 pm. Closed Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Website: Megumi Facebook page. 
5) Genmai Cafe
Shokujido-Zen set vegan lunch with two brown rice balls
Genmai Cafe (listed as Haigenki Salon Shinsaibashi on Google Maps) has a modern canteen feel and is popular with Japanese office workers on their lunch break (arrive before noon or after 1 pm to avoid the rush).
You order at the counter (there is an English menu) and have the choice of five set meals. The focus is on brown rice balls, but there are also curry, salad, and daily main options.
We got the most expensive Shokujido-Zen set which included a choice of two brown rice balls (fillings include fried tofu, pickled plum, and pickled vegetables), tea, soup, salad, and five vegetable side dishes.
Although Happy Cow doesn’t list the cafe as vegan, they say they are entirely vegan and the menu seemed to be. There are vegan desserts too.
While it isn’t one of my top picks in Osaka, we did enjoy our meal and it’s worth visiting if you are in the area.
Cost for a Main Dish: From 850 – 1200 yen for lunch set. Details: 3-chōme−6−9 第3酵素ビル1F, Shinshaibashi. Open from 11 am – 6 pm. Closed Sundays (and for holidays in September—check their Facebook page). Website: Genmai website and Facebook page. 
6) Paprika Shokudou Vegan
Lunch set with vegetable and tempeh teriyaki stir fry
Paprika is a cosy, stylish vegan cafe. The staff didn’t seem to speak much English but were friendly and brought us an English menu. Just ring the bell when you’re ready to order.
The menu is more limited at lunch and focuses on sets—choose a main and it comes with rice, miso soup, salad, and a side (ours was potato salad).
We found the menu too fake meat focused for our tastes with options like soy meat karaage and vegan hamburger. We chose a vegetable and tempeh teriyaki stir fry, which didn’t feel very Japanese but it was tasty.
At dinner they also have rice bowls, pizza, and pasta as well as the sets. There’s a 300 yen seat charge in the evenings.
It’s not my favourite place in Osaka, but it’s a good option if you’re in the area and like soy meat.
Cost for a Main Dish: From 1260 yen for lunch set. Credit cards accepted. Details: 1–9–9 Shinmachi, Shinshaibashi. Open from 11.30 am – 2 pm and 5.30 pm – 10 pm. Closed Monday. Website: Paprika website. 
Vegetarian-Friendly Restaurants in Osaka
Some of the best vegetarian food in Osaka isn’t found in vegetarian restaurants. The restaurants below serve meat and/or fish, but they also cater for vegetarians (and often vegans).
They are a good opportunity to try classic Japanese dishes like ramen, gyoza, and okonomiyaki in a typical setting. You may need to explain your dietary needs, but we didn’t find it difficult in any of these places.
7) Self Tacoyaki Bar Iduco (TOP PICK)
Tacoyaki is an Osakan street food that’s usually made with octopus, but Iduco offers the unique chance to try a vegetarian or vegan version of these balls.
It’s a tiny, cute open-air stall where you stand at the bar and make your own tacoyaki. The owner is super friendly (and a big fan of Manchester bands like The Stone Roses!) and will walk you through it. We kept warm on a winter night with some hot umesyu (plum wine).
You pour the batter into small ball moulds on a hot plate and add your choice of fillings such as green onion, pickled ginger, mushroom, konnyaku, puffed rice, and dried seaweed. When they have finished cooking you can top the balls with tacoyaki sauce, mayonnaise (egg-free available), nori, hot sauce, or whatever you like.
The results are delicious—gooey on the inside, crispy on the outside. It’s such a fun and affordable experience and a good place to meet locals.
Iduco is just down the road from the Harukas 300 observatory, which has fantastic views at night, and Spa World is also nearby.
Cost for a Main Dish: 16 tacoyaki are 800 yen for vegetarian and 1000 yen for vegan. Details: 1-chōme–3–20 Taishi. Open from 5 pm until midnight every day. Website: Iduco Facebook page. 
8) Matsuri (TOP PICK)
Samurai ramen at Matsuri
This halal restaurant has a whole separate vegetarian menu (not on their website) which includes Japanese classics like ramen, okonomiyaki, tacoyaki, yaki soba and more. We appreciated that they don’t seem to use fake meat.
Vegan dishes are marked but ask if you want something adapted as they speak perfect English.
We both got ramen—the curry ramen and spicy Samurai ramen with beansprouts, eggplant and mushrooms were both tasty. We would have returned to try more things if it was nearer to our Airbnb.
The location is a bit out of the way, but we stopped here on our way back from Universal Studios Japan (which has limited vegetarian options) as it’s close to Noda station where we had to change trains.
Cost for a Main Dish: Ramen is 750 yen. Details: 3-chōme–27–17 Yoshino. Open from 11 am – 2 pm and 5 pm – 11 pm. Closed Sunday. Website: Matsuri website. 
9) Asai Togei (TOP PICK)
Kaiseki is a traditional multi-course fine dining experience in Japan. It’s difficult to find meat and fish free versions of kaiseki, but luckily Asai Togei does a vegan set.
For the vegan kaiseki you must book 24 hours in advance—I emailed them at [email protected] but you could call as they speak good English (our server had lived in San Francisco).
We went for the most expensive option at lunch which included eight dishes—it was a lot of food so you could choose one of the cheaper options. You have no choice over what you eat—you’ll be brought a series of beautifully presented small plates using seasonal ingredients.
Our meal included pumpkin soup, a pretty plate of konnyaku, yuba, and mountain yam, lily root dumplings, tempura, noodle soup, and green tea mochi to finish.
The food was excellent and worth the splurge. If you are also visiting Tokyo and only have the budget for one fine dining meal, we preferred Bon which is entirely vegan and has a more traditional setting. Asai Togei has a more casual feel where you sit in private booths rather than on tatami mats (an advantage for some).
Cost for a Main Dish: Vegan set lunch is 3500 yen, 5000 yen or 7000 yen depending on the number of dishes. Dinner is likely more expensive. Details: 2-chōme–2–30 Shinsaibashisuji. Open from 11.30 am – 2.30 pm and 5 pm – 10 pm. Closed Sunday. Website: Asai Togei website (use Google Translate).
10) Okonomiyaki Chitose
Okonomiyaki is a typical Osakan dish that’s often described as a savoury Japanese pancake—an egg and flour batter is cooked with cabbage and various fillings of your choice. Although it can easily be made vegetarian (but not vegan), it can be difficult to explain this in most okonomiyaki places.
Okonomiyaki Chitose is happy to cater to vegetarians, though. This tiny backstreet place in the Tennoji area has just four seats at the counter and two tables. It’s popular with tourists and there’s often a queue outside, so arrive early (we got the last table just after midday).
There are no vegetarian options on the menu, but the friendly lady who runs the restaurant speaks English and was happy to make us one. Her father operates the grill and you can watch him work. Our veggie okonomiyaki came with cabbage, tofu, peas, sweetcorn, carrots, and pineapple.
They might not be the traditional fillings but it was good. We also got a modan yaki which includes noodles—it was our favourite but very filling so one of each worked well. Go hungry as you have to order one dish per person.
Cost for a Main Dish: 750 yen for vegetarian okonomiyaki and 850 yen for modan yaki. Details: 1-chōme–11–10 Taishi, Nishinari-ku. Open from 12 pm – 3.30 pm and 5 pm – 8 pm. Closed Wednesday. Website: Chitose website. 
11) Gyozaoh Dotonbori
Dotonburi is known as the area to eat at night in Osaka, but vegetarian options are limited. I definitely recommend coming in the evenings to experience the neon chaos, and Gyozaoh Dotonbori is the ideal place for a quick and affordable meal.
This traditional gyoza bar has counter seating, where you can see the chef at work, and a few tables. There’s an English menu and the friendly staff speaks a little English. They have vegetable gyoza either pan-fried or deep-fried (both are worth trying) and a few vegetable sides—we got the cucumber and the eggplant.
It’s worth telling them you are vegetarian as they advised us that the eggplant dipping sauce contains dashi (fish broth) and brought us soy sauce instead. I think the gyoza are vegan, but it’s worth checking.
Cost for a Main Dish: 480 yen for vegetable gyoza and 290 yen for sides. Details: 2-chōme–4–14 Dōtonbori. Open from 5 pm – 1 am. Website: Gyozaoh Dotonbori Facebook page. 
12) Chabuton Ramen
Chabuton is a ramen chain that offers vegan ramen and gyoza. We went here several times in Osaka and Kyoto and enjoyed having the typical ramen experience where you order at a vending machine.
In Osaka we went to the Chabuton Yodobashi-Umeda branch which is on the 8th floor of the Yodobashi electronics store. When you arrive, order and pay at the vending machine. The machine is in Japanese but if you look at the English menu on the wall you can compare the items you need—the vegan ramen and gyoza are marked as green on the menu.
Once you have the ticket give it to the staff and say you ordered the vegetable gyoza as the meat gyoza shares the same button.
The ramen comes quickly and is packed with vegetables. You can jazz it up with the condiments like chile on the table. The gyoza are good too.
Cost for a Main Dish: 750 yen for ramen and 320 yen for gyoza. Details: 8F of Yodobashi Umeda near Umeda and Osaka stations. Open from 11 am – 10 pm. Website: Chabuton Happy Cow listing. 
13) CoCo Ichibanya Curry House
Vegetarian menu at CoCo Ichibanya
If you are ever stuck for a vegetarian meal in Japan, look for the nearest CoCo Ichibanya. Most branches of this Japanese curry chain have a separate vegetarian menu—look for signs on the window or for the green menu at the tables. The regular English menu is helpful to explain the ordering process.
You can choose your fillings (we usually get vegetables and eggplant), spice level (3 is pretty spicy), and size of rice portion. It’s tasty, filling, inexpensive, and quick.
We went to the branch nearest to our Airbnb, “CoCo Ichibanya Nishi-ku Awaza 1-chome” but “CoCo Ichibanya Kitahorie 1 Chome” between Shinsaibashi and Dotonburi also has a vegetarian menu. There are many other branches. I check the Google Maps reviews to see if anyone mentions the vegetarian menu.
Cost for a Main Dish: Vegetarian curries from 654 yen to 911 yen. Details: Various branches. Open from 11 am – 11 pm (some branches 1 am). Website: CoCo Ichibanya website. 
14) Mochisho Shizuku Shinmachi
We’re not usually fans of Japanese desserts (rice and beans don’t appeal in sweets), but we loved this traditional Japanese wagashi (sweet) shop that our Airbnb host recommended.
It’s minimalist and stylish. We got sweets to take away, but I recommend eating in with some green tea for a unique Japanese experience (apparently there is an English menu).
You can choose from the rows of colourful daifuku on the counter. Names are written in Japanese so we just pointed.
Our host recommended the Framboise Daifuku (the bright pink one) and it was definitely our favourite—a soft glutinous rice ball with a whole raspberry inside. The chocolate one was also good, but the green tea was less to our taste.
Daifuku are traditionally vegan so I assume they are here, but I don’t know for sure.
Cost: 400 yen for Framboise Daifuku. Details: 1-chōme−17−17 Shinmachi. The tea house is open from 1 pm – 5.30 pm, but the shop may open from 11 am – 7 pm. Website: Shizuku website. 
Vegan Ramen Cooking Class
We ran out of time, but I really wanted to do this vegan ramen cooking class that’s listed on Airbnb Experiences and has fantastic reviews. It’s in Ibaraki which is 12 minutes from JR Osaka station or 20 minutes from JR Kyoto station by train. 
If you’d prefer a more central class, this ramen and gyoza cooking class is in Namba and offers vegan and halal options. 
Other Japan Vegetarian Guides
Vegetarian Survival Guide to Japan
The Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Tokyo
Vegetarian Kyoto (update coming soon)
2 Week Japan Itinerary
I hope you enjoy eating your way around Osaka as a vegetarian as much as we did! Leave a comment below if you have any more recommendations.
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Singapore is one of our favourite places in Asia and we’ve visited many times. This island nation, that’s both a city and a country, is an easy introduction to the continent as it’s clean, efficient, and English is widely spoken. There’s plenty to do, a fascinating culture, and lots of delicious food.
This ultimate Singapore itinerary is ideal for first-time visitors to the city and will take you to unique neighbourhoods that highlight Singapore’s multicultural heritage.
You’ll see a wide variety of architecture from colourful traditional shophouses to futuristic skyscrapers, visit some fun attractions, and have time for many tasty meals along the way.
Three days in Singapore is a good amount of time to get an overview of the city and see the highlights, but you could easily spend a week here.
If you only have one day in Singapore, then pick and choose your favourite activities from the itinerary below—I recommend focusing on the Marina Bay area as it’s so unique. If you have four days or more, I have included additional suggested activities at the end of the post.
Prices quoted below are in Singapore dollars. The current exchange rate is S$1 = 0.73 USD, 0.60 GBP and 1.07 AUD.
Where to Stay in Singapore
The Best Neighbourhoods to Stay in Singapore
Choosing a central area to stay will help you make the most of your time in the city. I recommend finding a hotel in one of these areas which are all convenient for this Singapore itinerary:
Marina Bay – Fantastic views, beautiful riverfront area, close to top Singapore attractions like Gardens by the Bay, expensive.
Bugis – Convenient location between Marina Bay and the Kampong Glam and Little India neighbourhoods. We stayed here on our most recent visit and could walk to most places on this itinerary. Budget and luxury accommodation available.
Chinatown – Good value hotels not too far from Marina Bay.
Orchard Road – A good option if you want to be close to shopping malls and embassies (we’ve gotten visas for Thailand and Indonesia here). The Singapore Botanic Gardens are close by, but it’s less convenient for the other areas in this itinerary.
Recommended Hotels in Singapore
Andaz Singapore, Bugis
Andaz Singapore is our new favourite place to stay in Singapore. This hip hotel is in the perfect location just a few minutes’ walk from trendy Haji Lane and the traditional architecture of Kampong Glam.
Little India and the Colonial District are also walkable and Marina Bay is a 30-minute walk or two stops on the MRT (the hotel is connected to Bugis station).
Our room at Andaz Singapore
We loved the spacious, stylish rooms with fantastic city views from the floor to ceiling windows, free minibar, and all the mod cons like a Nespresso machine. The bed was so comfortable it was hard to leave.
A view of the Singapore Flyer, Gardens by the Bay and Marina Bay Sands from the infinity pool at Andaz Singapore
The views from the infinity pool and rooftop bar (which features cool teepees) are also stunning.
You can help yourself to complimentary hot and cold non-alcoholic drinks and snacks in the Sunroom all day. Our room rate didn’t include breakfast, but we preferred ordering room service anyway or there are many cafes nearby.
Check the latest prices at Andaz Singapore here. 
Treetops Executive Residences, Orchard Road
We stayed at Treetops for a family reunion earlier in the year and loved it. The one and two bedroom apartments have a four-night minimum stay, so it’s good for longer trips, especially for families.
The apartments are spacious and comfortable and have everything you need to self-cater, but a buffet breakfast is included in the rate. There’s a lovely large pool surrounded by tropical vegetation.
Marina Bay Sands
Marina Bay Sands is the ultimate splurge—Singapore’s most famous hotel features the world’s largest rooftop infinity pool. Expect crowds and high prices, but the views might just be worth it. We haven’t stayed here yet, but we are tempted. 
Budget Accommodation
There are plenty of hostels and capsule hotels in the Bugis and Kampong Glam area such as Beary Best and ZEN Hostel Bugis.
Chinatown is a good area to look for budget hotels. The Bohemian Chic is a well-reviewed, stylish hostel and Hotel Mono has attractive ensuite double rooms. 
Search for more hotels in Singapore here. 
Airbnb also has affordable private rooms and apartments throughout the city. 
Singapore Transport
While walking around Singapore we’ve discovered cool streets like Armenian Street
Singapore is easy to get around. It’s a walkable city and we always find gems when we’re on foot, but the heat makes walking exhausting (and sweaty) in the middle of the day.
Save your energy by hopping on the clean, efficient, and inexpensive MRT metro. You can buy tickets as you go or purchase an ez-link card for S$12 which includes S$7 credit. Most trips are only S$1–2.
You could also consider a Singapore Tourist Pass which costs S$30 for unlimited rides for three days (with a $10 refundable deposit). 
Another easy option for getting around is the Grab app (there’s no Uber here) which makes it easy to call a taxi. Short rides cost around S$10.
We use Google Maps for walking or public transport directions.
Singapore’s Changi Airport is one of the best in the world so allow time before your flight to explore the various gardens and attractions. You can get the MRT to/from the airport but we find it easier to get a taxi which costs about S$15–20 to Bugis.
The Best Time to Visit Singapore
You can visit Singapore at any time of year.
We have travelled to Singapore in many different months and the weather is always the same—hot, very humid, lots of clouds, and often short rain showers (which are usually quite refreshing).
It has the least amount of seasonal variation of anywhere we’ve ever visited, so I wouldn’t let the weather influence your decision on when to visit. 
Check for local holidays and festivals when you are planning your trip to Singapore. There is often a vibrant event to enjoy like Chinese New Year in January or February or Diwali in Little India in October or November. 
Map for Singapore Itinerary 3 Days
This Singapore map has all the recommended sights for this itinerary. Activities for each day are pinned with a different colour—Day 1 in blue, Day 2 in red, and the various options for Day 3 in green.
Singapore Itinerary Day 1: Colonial District and Gardens by the Bay
National Museum of Singapore
The National Museum of Singapore (S$15) is a great introduction to the history of the city and will give you an understanding of its multicultural roots. It’s housed in an elegant Neo-Palladian building dating back to 1887 with a towering Indian rubber tree outside. 
I recommend starting on the second floor at the Glass Rotunda. The Story of the Forest exhibit was created by the Japanese digital arts collective teamLab and brings drawings of the Malay Peninsulas’s jungle and wildlife to life.
It’s a unique exhibition and will lead you down to the first floor where you can work your way through the history of Singapore.
We spent about two hours here but still didn’t see all the exhibitions.
If you’d prefer to learn about the city’s history from a guide rather than a museum, you could take this Singapore’s Old Colonial District Walking Tour instead. 
Transport: We walked from the Andaz Singapore Hotel in Bugis (20 minutes). The nearest MRT station is Bencoolen Station on the Downtown line.
Explore the Colonial District
The National Museum is located in Singapore’s Colonial District so after your visit you could take a stroll through the area and visit 150-year-old St Andrew’s Cathedral and Fort Canning Park.
One of the top Singapore tourist spots is also nearby. The Long Bar in the historic Raffles Hotel is where the Singapore Sling cocktail was invented and peanut shells are brushed onto the floor. We’ve still not been as it’s expensive and touristy, but if it’s on your bucket list, go for it!
One of our favourite places to stop for a cake break is Fabulous Baker Boy on the edge of Fort Canning Park.
For lunch you could head to the Raffles City shopping mall food court (these are always a good, inexpensive option in Singapore) or walk down to Boat Quay (about 20 minutes) for a meal overlooking the river.
We like the burgers at Hans im Glück (with a wide variety of veggie options) and tapas at My Little Spanish Place or there’s plenty of seafood on offer. Here are some more ideas on where to eat at Boat Quay. 
Burgers with a view at Hans im Gluck at Boat Quay
Gardens by the Bay
Waterfall in the Cloud Forest dome at Gardens by the Bay
Gardens by the Bay is one of the best places to visit in Singapore and is my number one must-see for any trip to the city. Try to avoid visiting on weekends if possible as it gets very busy. 
You’ll want to time your visit to the gardens so that you’ll be finished by just before sunset as this area is attractive after dark. If you arrive by around 2 or 3pm you should have plenty of time.
The extensive outdoor gardens are free, but at this time of day you’ll probably be eager to get inside and the paid conservatories are superb.
Both climate-controlled domes—the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest—are worth visiting, but if you have limited time, choose the Cloud Forest which is the most unique and features a large waterfall. A combined ticket is S$28.
You can save 18% off the entrance price and skip the ticket queue by buying your Gardens by the Bay tickets online at Voyagin. 
Transport: Gardens by the Bay is a 30-minute walk from the Colonial District or the nearest MRT station is Bayfront on the Downtown and Circle lines.
Marina Bay Sands Sunset Cocktail
Sunset view from CÉ LA VI SkyBar at Marina Bay Sands
Marina Bay Sands is Singapore’s most iconic building. Three 55-storey towers are topped by a boat-shaped structure that features the famous infinity pool, gardens, and an observation deck. The building houses a hotel and many shops and restaurants.
Before sunset I recommend heading to Marina Bay Sands for an amazing view from the top as the sun goes down and the city’s skyscrapers light up.
I think it’s better value to pay for a drink at the CÉ LA VI SkyBar (minimum spend S$22) than pay S$23 for the Sands SkyPark Observation Deck. Sunset times vary from 6.50pm to 7.20pm depending on the time of year.
Last time we visited on a Sunday there was a long queue to get up, so allow time for this and consider making a reservation if you’d like a seated table (standing tables are on a first come, first served basis).
Note that the bar has a dress code from 6 pm—no swimwear, singlets, sleeveless shirts, and flip-flops are allowed for men. There is no dress code on Mondays, Tuesdays and Sundays.
If you want to swim in the famous infinity pool, you’ll have to stay at Marina Bay Sands.
Transport: It’s about a 10-minute walk from Gardens by the Bay to Marina Bay Sands.
Supertrees Light Show
The Supertrees and OCBC Skyway during the light show with Marina Bay Sands in the background
Once darkness has fallen head back down to Gardens by the Bay to my favourite part—the Supertree Grove. These futuristic trees are 25 to 50 metres tall with steel trunks covered in orchids, ferns, and climbing tropical flowers. Many of the trees generate solar power and collect rainwater.
The Supertrees are best seen lit up at night and the free Garden Rhapsody light and sound show takes place at 7.45pm and 8.45pm every day. 
You can also get up close to the large canopies on the 22-metre-high OCBC Skyway. If you bought Gardens by the Bay tickets online with Voyagin this is included in the price; otherwise it’s $8SGD (last admission 8pm).
Satay by the Bay is the best place in the area for a quick, inexpensive dinner. The large, open-air food court features local specialities like satay, chicken rice, and BBQ seafood.
As vegetarians we head to the Indian stall for a masala dosa (crispy rice flour pancake stuffed with potato curry) which only costs S$3. It’s a 10-minute walk from the Supertree Grove.
There’s lots more to do in the Marina Bay area at night. I’ve put the rest in the itinerary for Day 2, but if you are feeling keen, you could continue on to explore more of the area including Clarke Quay and the Singapore Flyer.
Transport: The nearest MRT station is Bayfront on the Downtown and Circle lines.
Day 2: Exploring Singapore’s Multicultural Heritage and Marina Bay at Night
Singapore is a multicultural city and the three largest ethnic groups are Chinese, Malay, and Indian. On your second day in Singapore explore three of Singapore’s distinct ethnic neighbourhoods.
Little India
Tan Teng Niah in Little India
Little India is home to Singapore’s Indian community and is a vibrant, bustling place that really does remind us of India with its smells of incense and sounds of Bollywood music.
In Little India you can:
Explore the colourful wooden shophouses.
Visit the extravagant Sri Veeramakaliamman Hindu Temple.
Take photos of Tan Teng Niah, a vibrant Chinese villa built in 1900.
Shop at the lively Tekka Centre and Mustafa Centre (open 24 hours).
Eat cheap South Indian food at one of the many vegetarian restaurants like Komala Vilas. Try a masala dosa (rice flour pancake stuffed with curry) or a thali where mounds of rice and curries are served on a banana leaf.
Witness the colourful kavadi procession if you visit during the Thaipusam Hindu Festival in January or February. Some devotees pierce their bodies and tongues with spikes.
Devotee at the Thaipusam Festival
Transport: Little India is walkable from the Bugis area (where we stayed) or take the Downtown or North East MRT line to Little India station.
Kampong Glam
Haji Lane
Kampong Glam is Singapore’s Muslim and Arab neighbourhood. It’s Singapore’s oldest urban quarter—in 1822 it was allocated by Sir Stamford Raffles (the founder of the city) to the Malay and Arab communities.
There are some lovely colourful shophouses, mosques, and a hipster scene with trendy cafes and bars.
In Kampong Glam you can:
See the golden domes of Sultan Mosque.
Learn about the Malay community in the Malay Heritage Centre (S$6).
Shop in the funky boutiques and admire the street art on Haji Lane.
Listen to live music at one of the pavement bars on Haji Lane in the evenings.
Transport: It takes about 15 minutes to walk between Little India and Kampong Glam or take the MRT Downtown line to Bugis.
Chinatown
Chinatown was once home to Singapore’s Chinese immigrant community, but it’s now a mix of cultures with historic temples and trendy cafes. It’s the only Chinatown in the world with a Buddhist temple, mosque, and Hindu temple on one street.
In Chinatown you can:
Visit the beautiful Buddha Tooth Relic Temple (Buddhist).
Compare it to the Thian Hock Keng Temple (Taoist).
See the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, Sri Mariamman.
Learn about Singapore’s earliest immigrants at the Chinatown Heritage Center (S$18).
Grab a bite to eat at one of the open-air eateries on Chinatown Food Street (from 11am–11pm) or Maxwell Hawker Centre.
Eat vegetarian Peranakan dishes at nearby Whole Earth.
Experience lively Chinese New Year celebrations if you visit at the right time (usually January/February).
Transport: Take the MRT Downtown line from Bugis to Chinatown station.
Riverside and Marina Bay Walk
It’s worth spending two nights at the Marina Bay area as there’s lots to see. On the second night, I recommend taking a walk along the Singapore River, which is one of my top things to do in Singapore at night when it’s cooler and the skyline views are fantastic.
This walk takes about 40 minutes plus stops (there are lots of photo opportunities).
If you don’t want to walk, you could take a Singapore River Cruise on a bumboat from Clarke Quay (40 minutes, S$25). If you book the river cruise in advance with Voyagin you can save money. 
Start the walk in Clarke Quay and continue through Boat Quay—both have lots of bars and restaurants overlooking the water. It’s a little touristy but fun and the views are superb.
The view from Boat Quay
Continue down the river past Fernando Botero’s Bird sculpture and the grand Fullerton Hotel to the Merlion fountain.
This iconic statue has the body of a fish and the head of a lion that shoots water from its mouth. The body symbolises Singapore’s humble origins as a fishing village and the head represents its original name Singapura or Lion City in Malay.
From this area you can see Spectra, a free light and water show that takes place every night at 8pm and 9pm (also at 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays). This side of the bay will give you a view of the colourful laser beams projecting from Marina Bay Sands. 
Spectra light show from the Merlion fountain 
You could also try to see a later show on the other side of the bay in front of Marina Bay Sands for a different perspective. You’ll be able to see the projections on water from the seating area outside The Shoppes (the shopping mall at Marina Bay Sands).
From Merlion cross over the Esplanade Bridge to the Esplanade Outdoor Theatre where there are often free performances.
The view from the other side of the Esplanade Bridge
If you are hungry, the Makansutra Gluttons Bay food court is next to the Esplanade.
A little further down the river is the impressive Helix Bridge which connects to Marina Bay Sands, so cross over here if you want to catch the light show from that side.
The Helix Bridge takes you to Marina Bay Sands
Or continue a little further along the river to the Singapore Flyer to take your Singapore sightseeing up high.
Transport: From Chinatown it’s a 15-minute walk to Clarke Quay or take the MRT Downtown line to Fort Canning station or the North East line to Clarke Quay.
Singapore Flyer
A ride on this huge observation wheel takes 30 minutes and costs S$33. I wasn’t sure it was worth it at first, but once we reached the top (at 165 metres) and started descending, the view was truly spectacular.
You can see Marina Bay Sands, Gardens by the Bay, downtown skyscrapers, and the whole of the Bay.
Transport: I recommend walking here along the river, but to get back to your hotel the nearest MRT station is Promenade on the Downtown and Circle lines.
Day 3: Universal Studios Singapore or Shopping and Gardens
On your final day in Singapore you can choose the activity that interests you most. If you are a theme park fan, like us, I recommend a visit to Universal Studios Singapore on Sentosa Island.
If rides aren’t your thing, you might prefer shopping in the malls on Orchard Road and visiting the nearby Botanic Gardens. I’ve included some other suggestions below.
Universal Studios Singapore
Battlestar Galactica roller coaster at Universal Studios Singapore
Universal Studios Singapore is a fun day out with a wide variety of movie-themed rides and attractions. It’s not a huge park so if you arrive at the 10am park opening (which I recommend to avoid the crowds), you can be done by mid-afternoon and be back at your hotel for a much-needed refreshing swim.
Our favourite rides are Battlestar Galactica, a duelling roller coaster (ride both sides!); The Revenge of the Mummy, a fast roller coaster in the dark with some surprises; Transformers, an intense 3D experience; Jurassic Park, a fun water ride; and Waterworld, a live show with impressive stunts.
Read our guide to the best Universal Studios Singapore rides for more details and tips on avoiding long queues.
We always buy e-tickets in advance to avoid the queues and because you can save from 5% to 20% by booking here with Voyagin. Full price adult tickets are S$79.
Transport: Take the MRT to HarbourFront station and connect to the Sentosa Express monorail to Waterfront station, which is a short walk from the park. The monorail is a little more expensive than standard MRT rides (S$5 return), but you can use your MRT card to get straight on. The journey will take about 30 minutes from Bugis.
Alternatively, take the cable car to Sentosa Island to enjoy the view. From HarbourFront MRT station, ride the cable car to Imbiah, then take the Sentosa Express monorail one stop to Waterfront station. Voyagin offers discounts on Universal and Cable Car packages.
Singapore Botanic Gardens and Orchard Road Shopping
ION Orchard mall
Shopping fans might prefer to head to the Orchard Road area instead for a day of shopping in the many (blissfully air-conditioned) malls.
Not far from Orchard Road are the Singapore Botanic Gardens, which date back to 1859 and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 
These extensive gardens are a lovely place for a stroll, but due to the heat it’s best to visit in the early morning or late afternoon. When we stayed on Orchard Road I liked running here at dawn. I recommend starting your day here and shopping in the afternoon.
The gardens are open from 5am to midnight every day and entrance is free to most of the gardens. There is a S$5 fee for the National Orchid Garden which opens from 8.30am (last entry 6pm)—there are 1000 species and 2000 hybrids on display.
The futuristic-looking ION Orchard mall is one of the most popular on Orchard Road with everything from luxury brands to high street fashion. All the malls have food courts for inexpensive local dishes and there are plenty of restaurants in the area. 
Transport: Take the MRT to the Botanic Gardens MRT Station on the Downtown and Circle lines. From here to Orchard Road you could walk, but if you are feeling the heat, take a taxi or the MRT from Botanic Gardens to Newton on the Downtown line and change to the North South line to get to Orchard MRT station, which is next to ION Orchard mall.
Other Things to Do in Singapore
If theme parks and shopping don’t interest you, choose from one of these other Singapore activities:
Future World Exhibition at ArtScience Museum, Marina Bay – The Japanese arts collective teamLab created this cutting-edge interactive digital installation which will immerse you in various magical worlds. We went to their exhibition in Tokyo and it really is unique. Entry is at set times and it’s best to book in advance. Voyagin currently has a 32% discount on e-tickets. 
TreeTop Walk in MacRitchie Reservoir – For a taste of the jungle and a peaceful escape from the city, head to this nature reserve where you can hike on nature trails including a free-standing suspension bridge which gives you a bird’s eye view of the forest canopy.
National Gallery Singapore – A large collection of Southeast Asian art in a beautiful historic building in the heart of the Civic District. 
Singapore Zoo and Night Safari – These aren’t really our thing (we prefer seeing animals in the wild), but they are popular Singapore tourist attractions.
Singapore is a unique place with diverse neighbourhoods, fun attractions, and delicious food. I hope this Singapore travel guide has helped you plan your trip and feel free to ask any questions in the comments below.
If you are combining a trip to Singapore with Bali, check out our posts on the best things to do in Ubud (our favourite town in Bali) and our off-the-beaten-track Bali road trip. I’ve also written about how to get a 60-day Indonesian tourist visa in Singapore.
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duncanbarker-blog · 6 years ago
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duncanbarker-blog · 6 years ago
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duncanbarker-blog · 6 years ago
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Koh Lanta is the perfect Thai island for us. It’s not too developed or crowded but has enough facilities to live comfortably.
We love the laid-back atmosphere, long empty beaches, jungle-covered mountains, and spectacular sunsets. There are plenty of places to eat and things to do in Koh Lanta and there’s accommodation for all budgets.
We’ve visited three times and have spent over five months on the island in total. It’s the ideal island for both holiday makers and digital nomads.
Our Koh Lanta guide shares all our tips including the best things to do and places to eat, where to stay, and how to get there. It also includes a video so you can see for yourself why we love this beautiful island so much.
This post was originally published in 2012 and was most recently updated in 2019 after our latest visit.
The Best Things To Do in Koh Lanta
Tour the Island by Scooter
We do love zipping around on a moped and Koh Lanta is a great place for it (much easier than the crazy roads on Koh Jum or in the busy cities).
Koh Lanta is quite a large island (27 km long) so having your own transport makes it easy to explore. The roads are mostly paved (although with plenty of potholes), there is no traffic, and it’s hard to get lost when there’s only one road that goes around the island and a couple that cut across it.
If you rent a moped you’ll be able to explore many of our Koh Lanta itinerary suggestions below, but it’s also just fun to drive around enjoying the views and stopping off at quiet beaches.
If you don’t want to hire a motorbike, you could rent a car (much more expensive) or bicycle (but be prepared for the heat and big hills in the south). You could also take a local taxi—a tuk-tuk with a sidecar attached to a motorbike, but this will be more expensive. 
If you rent a motorbike make sure your travel insurance covers you as accidents do happen. We recommend True Traveller (for UK/EU residents) and World Nomads (worldwide). Both of these are available if you are already travelling, so if you forgot to buy insurance before you left home, there’s still time to buy a policy. 
Read our Koh Lanta scooter post for tips on learning to drive and renting a bike. 
Take a Walk on Long Beach
Long Beach (Pra-Ae) is the longest and one of the most attractive beaches on Koh Lanta. It’s in the north of the island and is a great place to stay if you want to be close to the action as there are plenty of restaurants and a wide range of accommodation—see our post on the best Koh Lanta hotels for recommendations. 
The golden sand is backed by casuarina trees and the warm clear water is perfect for swimming. It never gets too busy as there’s plenty of space for everyone. We love walking here at sunset. 
Just south of Long Beach you can find the lovely small bays Relax Bay and Lanta Secret Beach (also known as Beautiful Beach). 
Secret Beach
Laze on Koh Lanta’s Southern Beaches
Kantiang Bay
Koh Lanta beaches get quieter and even more beautiful the further south you go along the west coast.
Our favourites for day trips are at the very south—Kantiang Bay, Waterfall Bay (Ao Klong Jark) and Bamboo Bay (Ao Mai Pai). You can combine a trip to Waterfall Bay with a hike to the nearby waterfall.
Bamboo Bay, Koh Lanta
Explore Koh Lanta National Park
Beach at Koh Lanta National Park
For another beautiful empty beach keep driving even further south until you reach the end of the road at Koh Lanta’s National Park. There’s a 200 baht ($5.20) entrance fee, but you can then hike trails, visit the lighthouse, and relax on the beach.
Just watch out for the monkeys though—Simon got attacked by one that was trying to get into our bag in search of food. And please don’t feed the monkeys and encourage this kind of behaviour.
If you do get scratched or bitten by a monkey (or dog) you’ll need to get a rabies vaccination straight away and then four more at intervals over the following month.
Stroll Around Koh Lanta Old Town
Lanta Old Town
The west coast is where all the beaches are, but we also enjoy visiting the less developed east coast over the lush green mountains.
It’s quiet and peaceful here with a few small settlements of simple bamboo huts and the historic Old Town—a village of teak stilted houses overlooking the sea.
There are only a few shops and restaurants so it won’t take long to explore, but it makes a good break from the beaches.
Island Hop on the 4 Island Boat Tour
Kayaking at Koh Ngai
One of our favourite Koh Lanta activities was taking a day trip to visit the Trang Islands with Freedom Adventures. We spent the day snorkelling, kayaking, and island hopping around the gorgeous limestone islands.
Our snorkelling spot Koh Maa
The highlight of the 4 island tour was definitely visiting the Emerald Cave. Swimming through the cave the water really did glow emerald green before it became pitch black. When we reached the other end of the cave we emerged into the sunlight to find a hidden white sandy beach surrounded by limestone cliffs. We’ve never visited anywhere like it.
Emerald Cave
There are many boat trips to choose from, but we chose Freedom Adventures because their boat is large and comfortable (with a toilet), they limit groups to 16 people (there were only 4 of us in low season), and they bring kayaks. Our guide Ned was friendly and helpful and we had a hot Thai lunch cooked aboard the boat.
A full day boat trip with Freedom Adventures costs 1600 baht ($51) per person including pick up/drop off from your hotel, lunch, fruit, water, soft drinks, kayaks, snorkelling gear and national marine park fees.
The 4 islands are closed from June to September. 
Snorkel at Koh Rok 
Snorkelling at Koh Rok
Another beautiful day trip from Koh Lanta is to Koh Rok. Freedom Adventures doesn’t offer group trips to Koh Rok so we had to charter the entire boat, but as there were six of us this worked out to be only slightly more expensive than taking one of the group speedboat trips.
When we got to Koh Rok and saw how crowded the speedboats were, even at the end of the season, we were happy with our decision as we had plenty of space to spread out and we got to visit quieter spots.
The Koh Rok trips focus on snorkelling as it’s known to have some of the best snorkelling in the area. It took us about two hours to get to Koh Rok, but as we had plenty of space to relax, either undercover or on the sunny roof deck, this wasn���t a problem.
During the day we had plenty of time at three different snorkelling spots, lunch onboard the boat, and time to relax on a private beach away from the other tour groups.
Simon kayaking at the empty beach we stopped at
It was a true beach paradise with soft white sand and crystal clear turquoise water. You can do camping trips to Koh Rok and it would be amazing to have this undeveloped island to yourself.
The snorkelling was decent, but as you’d expect, not as good as the dive trip to Koh Haa we did from Koh Lanta. We still enjoyed exploring the underwater world and saw plenty of life including titan triggerfish, Moorish idols, false clownfish, and parrotfish.
If you only have time for one boat trip, I’d choose the Four Island trip to see the stunning Emerald Cave, but Koh Rok is also worth it.
Again we recommend Freedom Adventures for the more spacious boat and their ability to avoid the crowds. Our only issue on this trip was that considering half of us were vegetarian or vegan there wasn’t quite enough vegetarian food.
A private day boat charter to Koh Rok with Freedom Adventures costs 10,000 THB ($320) for 1-2 people or 13,000 THB ($417) for 3-6 people. A Koh Rok trip on one of the crowded speedboats costs about 1700 THB ($54) per person. 
Go Scuba Diving
Our dive spot at Koh Haa
Although Koh Lanta isn’t as well known a diving destination at Koh Phi Phi or Koh Tao, it has some of the best dive sites in Thailand and made the perfect place for us to get back underwater after four years without diving.
After our brief refresher course we did two dives at Koh Haa. The visibility was an incredible 30 metres and we were able to fully appreciate the thousands of colourful fish and vibrant corals.
A highlight was swimming up through a narrow cavern known as The Chimney. It’s really a magical world underwater and we’d definitely recommend giving scuba diving a try.
Read more about our dive trip with Scubafish.
Clownfish. Photo by Natasha Lambelin, Liquid Lense
Watch the Sunset
Watching the sunset is a must do on Koh Lanta. We’ve seen some truly spectacular sunsets on the island and made sunset walks along the beach a daily routine. Khlong Dao, Long Beach, and Khlong Nin are all fantastic places to watch the sun go down. 
Practice at Oasis Yoga
Oasis Yoga is the perfect yoga studio. Classes take place in a stilted wooden treehouse in a lush tropical garden with the sea in front and the jungle-covered mountains behind. The sounds of the waves and chirping birds helped me calm my mind and hold the most difficult poses, and I always came away ultra relaxed.
Farra and Kate opened the studio in 2013 and have since expanded it to include lovely bungalows and an excellent cafe.  
Farra is originally from Oklahoma and has a wonderful soothing voice and positive attitude. She’s down to earth and encouraging, giving you the option of more challenging poses but reminding you to listen to your body and takes breaks if you need to.
There are usually two to three classes a day. The Flow class is the most energetic, but Farra gives options for all ability levels. Chill Flow is slower and stretchier and Yin is very gentle with deep stretches that you hold for 3-5 minutes—it’s as much about calming the mind and being still as it is about stretching. 
Oasis Yoga is my favourite yoga studio in the world. I highly recommend it whether you are completely new to yoga or an experienced yogi.
Classes cost 400 baht ($13) or there are various passes available. See the Oasis Yoga website for the latest schedule. They close from mid-May to end of September. 
Take a Cooking Class
We didn’t take a Koh Lanta cooking class as we’d already done one in Chiang Mai, but we recommend taking a class during your trip to Thailand. It’s a great opportunity to spend the day eating (a lot!) and learn more about Thai food.
Beachfront Koh Lanta cooking class.
Get a Massage
We aren’t massage fans so we didn’t get one on Koh Lanta, but if you are then you’ll want to take advantage of Thailand’s excellent value massages.
Our friends Jenny and Tom recommend Serenity Spa in the main village Saladan. It’s not the cheapest place but it has a pleasant ambience and after your treatment they provide tea and fruit for you to enjoy on their deck overlooking the sea.
Walk Dogs at Lanta Animal Welfare 
If you are wondering what to do in Koh Lanta on a rainy day, animal lovers can visit the non-profit Lanta Animal Welfare to meet the rescued cats and dogs and even take the dogs for a walk. There’s also a vegan cafe. 
Be a Trash Hero
Rubbish washing up on the beaches is a big problem during the rainy season on Koh Lanta. Help out by joining one of the Sunday beach cleanups run by Trash Hero Koh Lanta. It’s amazing the difference two hours can make.
Koh Lanta Video
Take a video tour of some of Koh Lanta’s highlights to see why we love it. It features the national park, many beaches, Khlong Dao Monday market, and a boat trip to Koh Rok.
  Koh Lanta Accommodation
Pimalai Resort
See my post on where to stay in Koh Lanta for a detailed comparison of the different beaches and reviews of accommodation from budget bungalows to luxury resorts. 
All Koh Lanta’s beaches are on the west coast so most visitors stay in one of the beach villages here.
If you want to be closer to the ferry in Saladan and near lots of restaurants, I recommend staying on Khlong Dao or Long Beach.
For more of a get away from it all feel head further south to Khlong Nin (in the middle of the island) or Kantiang Bay.
The most remote hotel is LaLanta Hideaway Resort on quiet Bamboo Bay. 
We often take advantage of huge low season discounts and stay in luxury resorts. Our favourites are Pimalai Resort at Kantiang Bay (the most luxurious), Rawi Warin at Khlong Nin (the best value), and Layana Resort on Long Beach (the quietest as it’s adults only). 
The Best Koh Lanta Restaurants
We didn’t find the food on Koh Lanta as good or as inexpensive as in Chiang Mai, but things have improved over the years and there are some excellent options. 
These are the best restaurants on Koh Lanta we found. Most are on the western side of the island and we generally found the quality better on the road rather than on the beach. All these places have vegetarian options.
Khlong Dao
Time for Lime
Oasis Yoga Bungalows
Veggie tacos at Oasis Yoga Bungalows
The Oasis Kitchen is my favourite place for lunch on Koh Lanta and I often went here after classes at the excellent yoga studio. They make some of the best Western food on the island including breakfasts and delicious veggie tacos and bean burgers. They have excellent kombucha and smoothies too. It closes in low season.
Bajen Pizzeria
Good thin crust pizzas and they have a reliable delivery service so it’s very convenient.
Two Scoops Gelato
Tasty creamy gelato in interesting flavours and delicious cakes. They change daily but we loved the banoffee pie, red velvet cake, and apple crumble—I’m a huge crumble fan and was amazed to find it so well done in Thailand.
They have air conditioning so it’s a great place to cool off. The Khlong Dao branch closes in the low season, but the one in Old Town stays open. You can also find their ice cream at various restaurants on the island like Happy Veggie, Malee Highlands Bistro, and Escape Cafe. 
Long Beach
Red Snapper
Tapas at Red Snapper
Red Snapper serves tasty fusion tapas and is the best restaurant on Koh Lanta.
There are plenty of vegetarian options on the creative menu, which changes regularly. We enjoyed everything we tried including cheese and jalapeño croquettes, roast vegetables in a sun-dried tomato sauce, chickpea, jalapeño and orange salad, and the tasty bread with garlic butter and olives.
Yawee
Yawee is a simple, friendly Thai restaurant serving delicious food at low prices. There are a few things that make them stand out from similar restaurants—there are over two pages of vegetarian options, they provide free iced drinking water, they use metal straws instead of plastic ones, and when you say you want spicy, they believe you!
The massaman curry and the fried red curry with tofu were both delicious. The tofu is deep fried and much tastier than elsewhere on the island.
It’s open every day including in the low season.
May’s Kitchen
Pad thai with penang curry
May’s Kitchen is another friendly restaurant with consistently good food. There aren’t many vegetarian dishes on the menu, but they understand the concept and are happy to do vegetarian versions of everything, so just ask.
We loved the fried yellow curry with vegetables and the pad thai with penang curry. Our friends raved about the Thai grilled beef salad and they even asked for a vegan version made with mushrooms which they said was fantastic.
Happy Veggie
Tofu satay and samosas at Happy Veggie
This vegetarian restaurant has a large menu of meat-free international and Thai dishes. The food is a little more creative than the typical restaurant and they use red rice. We particularly like the starters—the vegetable samosas and tofu satay. The veggie burger and stir fry were also tasty. It stays open all year.
Fruit Tree Coffee Shop
This cute cafe is our favourite on Koh Lanta. The owner is very friendly and makes some of the best coffee on the island. Their cakes are delicious (especially the passionfruit cheesecake) and they have vegan options and bliss balls.
Other items are probiotic honey lemonade, smoothies, salad specials for lunch, and excellent breakfast/brunch dishes including pancakes, waffles, avocado toast, and beetroot hummus on toast.
They also sell homemade granola, peanut butter, and coconut oil.
Escape Cafe
It’s unusual to find a cafe that does quality coffee right on the beach. Escape Cafe has comfortable seating and platforms right on the sand so you can enjoy the view while enjoying a frappe or Two Scoops ice-cream.
Le Colibri
A French restaurant that does good pizza and wine.
Irie
Banana flower salad
At the north end of Long Beach, Irie is a good option for vegetarians as everything can be made with tofu and they have some creative vegan salads like banana flower, wing bean, and cashew. We also liked their western salad with sunflower seeds and feta and their tasty spicy potato wedges.
Khlong Nin
French Bakery
Simon’s favourite pizza on the island. They also sell good baguettes and croissants.
Shanti Shanti
Caramelised apple and cinnamon crepe
Shanti Shanti is a cute French cafe with good coffee, crepes (the caramelised apple and cinnamon was so good) and homemade ice creams including interesting flavours like chai. They close in low season.
Kantiang Bay
Drunken Sailors
Tom Yam Vegetable Noodle soup at Drunken Sailors
Drunken Sailors is one of those rare places that manages to do both excellent Western and Thai food. The tom yum vegetable noodle soup, vegetable samosas, Tex Mex veggie burger, and passionfruit shakes are all delicious. It’s also a good place for breakfast and proper coffee. 
We appreciated that they don’t tone the spice down for tourists (although you can ask them to if you want), and that you can order everything vegetarian or vegan. All the Thai dishes are packed full of veggies and you can choose to add meat as an optional extra.
The service is great, the atmosphere relaxed with hammock chairs and beanbags, and there’s WiFi and books to browse or exchange.
East Coast
Baja Taco
Refried bean tacos at Baja Taco
It’s worth heading over to the East Coast to a quiet location beyond Old Town for the best Mexican food on the island. This rustic restaurant overlooks the water (there are kayaks to rent) and has a small menu of surprisingly delicious tacos and nachos.
There are meat fillings as well as the vegetarian options of refried beans (very tasty), mushrooms, or tofu. Tacos come with three very good homemade salsas. The margaritas are good too.
Afterwards head to Old Town for a wander and an ice-cream at Two Scoops (the branch here stays open in low season).
Self Catering on Koh Lanta
We usually stay in apartments and villas on Koh Lanta with access to a kitchen.
For Western food like cheese, muesli, bread, and pasta we shop at Lanta Mart in Saladan. Everything else we buy from Mai Yod Market, a vegetable shop in Saladan with a big selection of vegetables, fruit, fresh noodles, tofu and rice.
There are also markets on various days around the island where you can pick up fresh fruit and vegetables. It’s in Saladan on Saturdays and Khlong Dao on Mondays. Pick up a copy of the free Lanta Pocket Guide when you arrive to check the times.
Koh Lanta for Digital Nomads
Koh Lanta has become one of the most popular Thai islands for digital nomads since the co-working space KoHub opened at Long Beach. 
We haven’t tried KoHub ourselves, but it looks great with fast fibre optic WiFi and a garden work space as well as air-conditioned rooms. It’s a good option if you want to meet other digital nomads as there are regular social events. 
The staff can help you find long-term accommodation and motorbike rental. They also offer all-inclusive packages including co-working, accommodation, and two meals a day. 
There’s plenty of affordable accommodation on the island, but apartments with kitchens are usually quite expensive. On our last three-month visit we stayed at Malee Highlands on a hill above Khlong Dao—the stylish apartments have fibre internet and are a good deal in low season. 
Airbnb does have some longer-term accommodation options, but it’s not as cheap as on Koh Phangan. It will be cheaper to find somewhere once you arrive on the island (ideally before high season starts) by asking locals and posting in Facebook groups like Koh Lanta Info. 
How To Get to Koh Lanta
Getting to Koh Lanta is fairly easy. Most people arrive on the island from Krabi on the mainland which you can reach by bus, train or plane.
AirAsia runs cheap flights from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur and Scoot has direct flights from Singapore. Search on Kiwi to find the best deals. 
Krabi Airport to Koh Lanta
The nearest airport to Koh Lanta is Krabi International Airport (KBV). From Krabi you can take the ferry or shared minibus (350 baht) to Koh Lanta. Both take about two hours (longer if you are staying in the far south of the island).
The minibus is more convenient than the ferry as they drop you off at your hotel. They are quite cramped and hot if you sit at the back though (the A/C didn’t reach us very well). You can book minibus tickets at the airport when you arrive. 
You could also get a private taxi (around 2500 baht), which would be a good option if you have a lot of luggage or have just arrived after a long flight. We did this on our most recent visit and it was much faster and more comfortable. 
Koh Lipe to Koh Lanta
You can also travel to/from Koh Lanta by ferry to other islands in the Andaman Sea.
We took the ferry from Langkawi, Malaysia to Koh Lipe, Thailand (2 hours, 135 MYR/ $42), spent the night there (although it is possible to continue on), and then took the Tigerline ferry from Koh Lipe to Koh Lanta (5 hours, 1530 baht/ $47) which was an easy and comfortable, if expensive way to travel.
Ferries to other islands don’t run in the rainy season. 
Phuket to Koh Lanta
You can take a two-hour ferry from Phuket to Koh Lanta that stops at Koh Phi Phi on the way (one hour from Koh Lanta). Ferries depart Koh Lanta at 15:00 and cost 1500 baht. 
When To Visit Koh Lanta
The high season on Koh Lanta is from November to March and this is when most people visit. The weather is dry and warm and the beaches look their best with calm water for swimming. Prices are at their highest (especially over Christmas) and there are more people around, but it never gets too crowded. 
The rainy season (or green season as it’s known here) is from May to September.  It’s very quiet and you’ll find empty beaches and some hotels and restaurants close. Hotels reduce their rates by 50% or more. Some ferries and tours don’t run. 
The weather is mixed. Although there are days when it rains all day, it can also go weeks without raining (or just the odd shower at night). The sea is rougher at this time of year and lots of rubbish washes up on the sand.
April and October are shoulder months. We’ve visited three times in April and think it’s the perfect month—not too much rain and the beaches look good, but prices start to drop in the middle of the month. It is particularly hot before the rain arrives though. 
Koh Lanta Map
Explore More Thai Islands
Koh Jum – A quiet island an hour by ferry from Koh Lanta. 
Koh Mak – A quiet island closer to Bangkok. 
Koh Phangan – Known for its full moon parties, but it is possible to escape the crowds and it’s great for digital nomads. 
Koh Lanta is our favourite island in Thailand and we’ll be returning next time we’re in Asia. If you are looking for a relaxing Thai island away from the party scene but not too remote, then we highly recommend Koh Lanta.
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