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London/Journey's End

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Operation: Complete; Outcome: Success

At the time of this writing, I am on a plane back to The States. Barely 48 hours in London, and just over 100 hours logged in Berlin, and I am pleased to say the trip was a success. Spent some quality time with quality people and learned a lot about myself as a traveler. Turns out, no matter the city--be it my hometown or one I haven't seen in nearly 15 years--I enjoy getting lost on my own and finding myself, and my way, again. I don't ask for directions, not because I'm afraid of outing myself as lost, but because how else will I find something new and unexpected? I like crafting a game plan, setting goals and then seeing them either follow through with the anticipated level of success or fall through with delight. The ability to be flexible is necessary and good for traveling, especially when on vacation. Keeps stress levels down and possibilities endless. I used to vacation pretty poorly. I'd make plans to do something like sit for a few hours on a beach and after 5 minutes panic because I wasn't "doing" something. I haven't quite over come this, but I am getting better. I still eat my meals too fast while at cafes, but I don't panic about the bill keeping me from the next thing. One day I'll enjoy the ambiance while eating/drinking, but for now it's consume first, experience after. Task oriented mentality, to be sure. But you know what they say: Practice makes perfect. So the more I commit to traveling and vacationing, the better I'll get. My biggest fear this trip was that'd I have to engage in political conversations as The American, and curiously enough those were the best conversations I had with anyone while I was there. Granted, they were with people I knew, so the space was already pretty safe, but it was good to hear we all pretty much agreed and shared the same fears and concerns. For ourselves, our nations, and the planet as a whole. I wish I had one more day in London, but I know I'll likely return and so not in too much of a tizzy. My time in Berlin was perfect, and I still look forward to visiting again. Next time for a beer festival or some such with my brother. I'd like to explore more of the U.K., too, though I think the next big adventure will be Italy. Once that's crossed off the list, I think I'll try a different continent. Perhaps Argentina? Overall, I'd say my German was OK. Not quite conversational and I apparently speak a little too low at the moment, but definitely motivational to keep improving. So I'll continue my lessons and make plans to travel to a German-speaking country every couple of years. Maybe Switzerland next? If so, maybe go a bit more of an adventure route and go skiing or hiking. I'm loving my city adventures, but I want to vary the activities and keep the experiences fresh and new. The one thing I'd change this trip would be not eating [i]all[/i] of that ice cream at the South Kensington Scoop. The cherry ice cream was amazing, but the Bacio wasn't the best. Not to mention I was pretty full to begin with, since I just ate a glorious Indian feast. Everything else was perfect, though. I ate what I wanted with minimal guilt (which at times is a serious source of concern, so I'm pretty proud of that and see it as an accomplishment). That said, I'm excited to get back to my daily routine. Which I think is all anyone can really hope for from a vacation. A total recharge and eagerness to get back to the grind Monday morning. One thing I need now is a massage, but otherwise all systems are operating at capacity. Hope I didn't leave much of a mess behind for myself Monday morning...!

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Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, and their empire.

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Legolas and Treebeard wifi at the London-Luton airport. Stop trying so hard, England. Also: tea, scones, gin & reflections on the (delayed) trains. Keep up the good work!

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Operation: Tea & Gin

It is a wrap on Operation: Krautland Zwei, and it was, without a doubt, a success. Shared some of my favorite parts of Berlin with new friends and got to see how well I can manage in translation. Definitely looking forward to doing it again, either with my brother or by myself (at long last!). I am now on part two of my journey: London. After a pretty laborious day of travel, I managed to find my hotel and make the two appointments I had made: the first for traditional afternoon tea at The Woseley, the second for gin cocktails at an old time themed bar called Mr. Fogg's Residence. Had some difficulty finding both (over and under shooting my own navigation, since my phone was dying and I didn't want to depend constantly on Google maps). Actually I ended up at the wrong Mr. Fogg's first before double backing. Oh, well, all is well. Both experiences were delightful and I am once again reminded how much I enjoy doing things on my own. No offense intended to my travel mates, I was happy to share and navigate, but tonight I realized just how much I enjoy discovering on my own without worrying about the needs of others. I suppose that's incredibly selfish, but it is my vacation... Tomorrow I have a big day planned as well: I want to get Indian food, find a local ice creamery, maybe do some shopping and exploring of Hyde Park, before meeting some friends and comics pros for drinks. I intend to map it all out properly tomorrow after a solid English breakfast. Can't believe it's almost already over. With the second city trip extension, it feels like (cue The Carpenters) it's only just begun. Picture update loading shortly. 💗 Xoxo, Molly

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The worst part is I ate it all.

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Something else I love about Germany/Europe: a steady hold on tradition and certain formalities. I never think to use a saucer in the States (I barely remember a coaster sometimes), but feel particularly posh and clever right now as I make a cup of Nacht blend tea for my final night in Berlin.

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Final night in Berlin: Burgerie.

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Operation: Krautland: Kein Regrets

The only regret I have right now is that I have pretty much eaten all of the Ritter Sport bar I invented. It really is a shame that I won't be taking that back with me. Oh well. I made it for me and it is appropriately in me. 60% of it anyway. It's 6PM on my final evening in Berlin, and overall I am quite pleased with my trip. Saw a few of my favorite sights, ate my favorite German foods, purchased the items I intended, and ate the mess out of some sweetness and oodles of spiked hot chocolate and coffee. Not to mention beer. It's weird. Last time I was here, my diet at home wasn't all that far off of the German diet (that is, beer, meat and cake). This trip, it's completely different and I am definitely noticing the changes in habit. Yesterday, when I was showering I had a moment of self-shame, before realizing this is exactly why it is called vacation. I'll be happy to have salad when I get home, but in the mean time... chocolate and cake and kirschlikor~! I've been obsessed with cherry stuff here. Cherry cheesecake, cherry muffin, cherry beer. Yes. Was not expected. Enjoyed some new cafes and fancy ice creams, but did not chill out by the river.I have a feeling I'll be back soon and it'll be better in spring or fall. All in all, a success. No regrets! Can't wait to come back. Tomorrow: London! Hope I haven't spent all my money yet...

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Berlin, Night 3.

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This is a book vending machine. That's all you need to know about how glorious the Berlin transit system is. There's also candy in there.

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Berlin, Day 3.

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Berlin, Day 2

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Berlin, Day 1

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Operation: Krautland: Tourist & Tour Guide

Hallo, Lieblings! It is my third morning in Berlin and I am excited to tell you first and foremost that Berlin is just as magnificent as I recall it and that I am extending my stay to Thursday, after some travel plan confusion regarding the ladies I am traveling with (sorry, London! But I think you’ll manage without me, as changing my reservations has not been too difficult ;) ).

So what have I done in 48 hours? I ventured to The Reichstag first thing. Arrived a few hours before my appointment, as I did not know how to gage how easy it is to get through German custom with an American passport--at least in Berlin. I recall Munich being a bit of an affair. So, got there early and wandered around a bit. Saw the memorials to the Roma and the members of Parlaiment who were executed by the Nazis, then grabbed some coffee to perk up before my lunch and tour.

It is impossible to travel Germany without seeing a memorial to the victims of its governments, be them WWII or Cold War or something else less obvious, and I think that is one of the things I find so attractive and intense about this place. Berlin especially. It is something we do not have at all in the States and I think that is a source of some frustration for me. Here, you really do have to stare history in its face and be reminded of who you are, where you came from, and to do better. After all, mass genocide was perpetrated--is perpetrated--on US soil, but where and when do you hear about that, let alone experience some of the most thought provoking and intense memorials pieces? Real art, centered on contemplation and remembrance, not just giant statues to white dudes? Though Germany of course has its share of those, but I doubt people spend as much time looking upon Otto von Bismarck, or even my beloved Siegessaule, the way you could spend a day looking at the reflection pool for the Roma or walking through the epic rowed monoliths of the memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe. In the States, if you do accept the atrocities of white people, we tend to compartmentalize. We blame the past and those who perpetrated it as individuals, completely ignoring culture and our (as white people) inheritance  of that hate and responsibility to be and do better than those who came before. 

It's fascinating and honestly not something I had spent much time considering before. Because, again, American. Why would I need to? Too fond of polite conversation.

Anyway. Enjoyed my first meal in Berlin at the top of the Reichstag. Rotbusch tea, veal meatballs and pickle do potato salad (natch!) and some bottled water. I forget that all water comes bottled here. Nothing from the tap. I and forget just how expensive that can be at .25 liters at a time...beer is cheaper and so more of that is ordered. Whoops!

After lunch, I viewed the dome and felt ill--a combination, I think, of the building being a touch vertigo inducing, plus carrying around my damn backpack (which was filled with my clothes, etc). The thing is heavy as all out, and the added weight of my purse, which I strapped to my hip, did not help.

I then headed to the East side to meet my travel partners. Got some hot chocolate with a shot of amaretto at a cafe across the street, then we hit up our hotel, which is actually an Air B&B and more room than we anticipated. The beds are a little rough on the spin (they are a lot like dorm room mattresses), and the sink is tiny (typical), but otherwise delightful. Not to mention near the U2 and other stations. Convenient!

After settling down and taking a quick 30 minute nap, I headed out to Mauerpark and enjoyed the final hour of it's Sunday flea market. Live music, handicrafts and vintage everything. I didn't buy anything (except the most bland strudel and another's hot chocolate--time with a generous shot of rum!). Funny how I never have hot chocolate, but manage it twice here in a few hours. It's partially because you can see its real melted chocolate, but also because it's too damn cold to not have a hot drink in hand. After that, we wandered back. Not a lot of shops or restaurants were open--Sundays are always weird in Europe--so we hit a convenience store and grabbed some strange new chip flavors not found in the US, German beers, and Kinder Surprises (also not found in US--and actually illegal!). The chocolate eggs aren't great, but they're fun for the novelty. The beer was fantastic and the “African Style” chips were superior to the Thai Chili ones. The flavoring I actually associate more with Indian food (masala?), but whatever.

After our feast, we went to bed. Big day ahead!

Monday was a delight. Walked to a nearby cafe and had a simple breakfast, then headed to Stadtmitte. Experienced the aforementioned holocaust memorial, then went to the nearby Mall of Berlin. Did some shopping (my travel mates forgot some items and one needed to go to the craft store), saw some security do some serious work (the place shut down for a few minutes, but we never knew what happened), then headed on to Checkpoint Charlie, where we chatted up the “American” soldier actors and had the first currywurst of the trip. Yum! Not as fantastic as I recall, but I know we will have it again at a better location (Alexanderplatz, maybe?). We then hopped on over to the Ritter Sport store where we made our own chocolate, walked through their little museum, and bought even more of it, as well as enjoyed some chocolate fondue (the first time I've ever had real fondu, I think?!). Sehr Lecker! The chocolate I made is dark chocolate with caramelized almonds, sour cherries and chili flakes. I wish I had made more of it, but at 8€ a brick, it's a bit expensive (albeit 100% worth it). We then headed back to our neighborhood.

One of my travel partners, Nobo, really wanted to try out the Absinth bar by us, so I did some research and discovered they had a happy hour at midnight. So, we went and had dinner--Italian food, and some good Italian at that! Spaghetti bolognese and gargonzola tortolini that we shared--before grabbing a pizza to go for our other mate, who was too tired to go back out, before hitting up the absinthe bar, Druide. The place was pretty quiet--Monday night after all--aside from a hostel bar crawl that came and went at about 1AM, that was loud and annoyed the bartender, but also gave us a round of drinks and invited us to their next stop. It was a club, so we didn't go. I tricked a Scotsman into thinking I was German, and enjoyed lighting the sugar cubes in our drinks. 2AM hit and the bar back was kind enough to allow us one more round, before we wandered back home. I themed each one because the names were so fun: Delirium & Hypnotic; Ramses & Sun King; Dark & Blonde; Killer & Suicide.

Getting home, we ate half the pizza (whoops!), drank some not-too-tasty tap water and broke into the chocolate, which again ate too much of, and nearly finished the chips from the night before. So,I am doing my part in gaining at least 10 lbs on this journey--even with the 20K+ steps each day.

Today we are taking it easy. Some local shopping in our neighborhood, then headed to the Berlin Cathedral, with a tour of the river Spree, then maybe some cheesecake at Barcomi’s before coming back to go to the nearby beer garden for real German cuisine! Not sure what we have to do tomorrow, our last day in Berlin, but this has been a great success for me. :)

Best, 

Molly

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Operation: Krautland Zwei: Arrival

12 March 2017. 35000 Feet Above Germany. 0800 Local.

Almost there and almost zero sleep. Partially my fault, which is hard to imagine considering how exhausted I was when I nestled into my seat. But the excitement of being in Germany soon coupled with the cabin lights being on meant no sleep für mich! Oh well.

Also, pro tip: apparently I signed up for the gluten free option (afraid I’d be stuck with pasta or fish, I guess, as for options?), which meant I was served first. Yum. Also, nothing makes me happier than included meals on flights. Except maybe free white wine (which there was and I had)!

We land in Berlin in about 40 minutes and thankfully travel was mostly uneventful. Some harrowing turbulence on the first flight, leading to us coming in WAY TOO FAST … or perhaps our pilot was Maverick and his Top Gun antics are what caused the uneasiness? Either way, we survived and got into Newark, despite some tipping and screaming in the cabin. Had a beer at the bar right outside my terminal and had a nice chat with my mom (ever the dutiful daughter!), before boarding.

And now we are almost there with lots of energy and minimal sleep. Hope I don’t collapse at the Reichstag! Hahah. Though, I suppose that’s what coffee is there to prevent. 😄☕️

Watched The Accountant, Marie Antoinette, and Doctor Strange, as well as the TriBeCa Film Festival’s short film selection. I think that’s varied enough a selection that I can have a conversation with almost anyone about anything. Also read some selections from my German book…and was surprised to see I didn’t need to glossary! This I from a different program than Rosetta Stone (my primary learning tool), so I guess that means I am actually learning some things! And like me, the lead character laments that the Germans only speak English with him. Haha! Oh, well. At least I’m trying. :)

Tray tables up! Write more soon.

Tschüß! Molly