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Sorry it looks like garbage I can only do so much with a 32x32 grid

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I swear that popular post going around about “geeps” is infuriating me and I didn’t want to say anything but the former farmer in me is flaring up so here goes.

Goats and sheep are really different animals. They belong to different genuses. Sheep have six less chromosomes than goats. And yes, hybrids have occurred, but they’re vanishingly rare and when they do occur they’re mostly stillborn.

So it’s possible that the creatures in that post are hybrids but I really, really doubt it. Instead, they’re probably what I grew up raising: Jacob Sheep.

This is the skull of an approximately one year old Jacob ram. This heritage breed is less modified than most modern breeds, and more like its older ancestors.

This is a Jacob sheep. They’re smaller than modern meat breeds, and, unlike modern wool breeds, they have black or brown spots in their wool.

Furthermore, unlike most modern breeds, both the rams and the ewes have horns, although the horns on rams will be substantially larger. And, perhaps most famously, while it is rare, this breed can have four (or sometimes more) horns.

In short, Jacob sheep are amazing, and check your sources people.

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nvm apparently it died whoops

im losing my braincells send help

where is that site that has the 98 furby price guide??? the one with all the different patterns and series. i cant find it send help

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im losing my braincells send help

where is that site that has the 98 furby price guide??? the one with all the different patterns and series. i cant find it send help

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How to Clean a Tilt Sensor

I’ve had a lot of furbies (all from the same ebay listing) with wonky tilt sensors (and other corroded metal parts), and from what I’ve found, there are two (or possibly more) different types of tilt sensor. Only one of the types can be opened for cleaning, and the other cannot. They will vary in color, but it’s the shape that matters. Please, only do this if your Furby has an intermittent tilt sensor. It is not a part of general maintenance and repeated cleaning may damage the tilt sensor.

The tilt sensor on the left can be opened, and the tilt sensor on the right cannot.

Additionally, you’ll be working very close to the circuit board on this one: Avoid touching the board with your bare hands or metal tools as much as possible, and do not leave batteries in your Furby.

First, you’ll want to get the wiring for the speaker out of your way. Be careful with all of these wires, but especially with the very thin wires that connect the tilt sensor to the circuit board. The amount of hot glue in this area varies furb-to-furb, and you may have to do some cautious pulling, tearing, or cutting to get the wires free.

Use a flat-tipped tool (I used a flathead screwdriver) to pry the top or bottom (depending on the type of plug) of the plug out of the socket, and peel the wires free from any hot glue. If your Furby has wires that are all the same color, mark the first wire on one end so you can plug it back in correctly (the order of the wires matters! Don’t plug it back in backwards!)

Wedging a speaker plug out by the top edge. Alternate which edge you push up from to avoid warping the socket.

Wedging a speaker plug out from the bottom. Work your tool in horizontally, then twist, alternating which side you lift from to avoid warping the socket.

Once you’ve moved the speaker wires out of the way, clear the hot glue out from around the upper two metal pieces (contacts) sticking out of the tilt sensor and off the top. The top of the tilt sensor may have been slightly melted to keep it from coming off– you should be able to easily cut or break through the melted areas, as the plastic has become fairly brittle with age.

Then, carefully slide a thin flat tool (I switched to my craft knife) between the top of the middle contact and the bottom of the tilt sensor’s lid. Lift it to break the seal, and then gently work it off with your fingers.

Lifting off the lid.

The underside of the lid.

The tilt sensor itself is built kind of like a sandwich. From top-to-bottom, it has the upside-down sensing contact, a donut-shaped contact, a ball bearing, and another donut-shaped contact. These should all be a mirror-finished brassy or gold color when clean.

Tilt sensor with the lid and top donut-shaped contact removed. the ball bearing and bottom donut-shaped contact are still inside.

Tilt sensor with the lid, top donut-shaped contact, and ball bearing removed. The bottom donut-shaped contact cannot be removed, as it is connected directly to the circuit board.

You can use rubbing alcohol or contact cleaner to clean these parts. I use q-tips to clean the donut-shaped contacts and rub the ball bearing around in a lint-free cloth. Once they’re clean and dry, re-assemble the sandwich and plug the speaker back in! Once you’re sure you’ve put everything back correctly, use a little hot glue to hold the lid down again.

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Some super quick snaps inside the covers of the two Japanese Furby guides I got today. They have things like clothing patterns and recipes/instructions for Furby shaped snacks in them! The layout and overall design is pretty nice. I love the Japanese art. I need to take proper photos or scan some of the pages when I have the time to do so.

These are a GREAT addition to my Furby library even if I know only a couple words and phrases of Japanese. The books are basically in mint condition which is always nice!

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Sync Screw Adjustment

Or, “What does a correctly adjusted sync screw even look like?!”

When furbies do the wake-up dance (usually after putting new batteries in or pressing the reset button), they are searching for the “home” position. The motor runs in one direction, spinning the cam shaft until the nub on one of the gears pushes the sync screw contacts together. This makes sure that the furby is in the right starting position for all of the movements to be correct.

When the contacts are too far apart (the sync screw is too loose so they never touch) or dirty (something is blocking electricity between the contacts), the furby will keep spinning the motor until the batteries are removed, because it can’t find the home position.  When the contacts are too close (the sync screw is too tight so they’re always touching), the furby will stop the wake-up dance short, because it incorrectly thinks it’s in the home position.

I have some image references here, but it’s important to remember that the design of the sync screw area is WILDLY different between individual furbies, based on manufacturing date and factory. Your furby may look different, but they all work the same way.

This is what the furby should look like when it’s not in the home position. The nub on the cam is not touching the reader, and the contacts do not touch.

And this is what it should look like when the furby is in the home position. The home position reader slides up against the nub on the cam, which pushes the non-adjustable contact into the adjustable contact. This is what a correctly adjusted sync screw looks like. This doesn’t have to be terribly precise, and should be fine as long as the contacts touch.

If the sync screw is adjusted correctly and your furby still gets stuck in the wake-up dance, you may need to clean the contacts. Wiping the touching surfaces with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip or cotton pad should clear away debris.

(These images are my own. Please feel free to use them on other sites or in your own guides, but leave a link back to this post near the images if you do so.)

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 reference photo

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SKIN SKIN SKIN (requested tutorial)

1. use scissors or a seam ripper to cut open the sleeve under your furby’s tail to reveal the zip tie. get under that zip tie with a flathead so you can cut it with wire cutters or scissors. then just pull out the zip tie.

2.  inside out the ears and cut the thread holding the ears to the ear bones. use a seam ripper or scissors.

3. pull, push, flip. basically, work at the skin until it’s inside out.

4. inside out skin attached only at the faceplate. to get to this step, you are most likely going to have to remove some glue from around the ears. sometimes it just needs a tug, other times you have to pry at it with a flathead. this is also the time where you figure out how your faceplate is attached! mine had screws so i just unscrewed them. then, you’ll probably have to pry or pull a bit of glue off the top of the faceplate.

5. congrats your furby has no fucking skin

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basic furby care guide ❤

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really quick basic guide on telling booms and 2012s apart! people bring up how they didn’t know they were two separate things fairly often and have trouble differentiating the two at first glance so I thought I’d share it here in case anyone needed it!

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if your NIB (new in box) ‘98/‘99 furby is comatose and won’t start when the batteries are inserted, and tongue-press start/hard reset won’t work:

you do NOT have to skin your brand-new furby, thankfully!! if you push the top part of its beak down so you can see its internals, shine a flashlight inside. you should see a white gear/corkscrew in the far, bottomish left.

stick a small rod, like a screwdriver (i used a mechanical pencil) to its left side and turn. it should start turning, making a weird whirring noise, and furby’s ears and eyes will move. eventually it SHOULD start talking! once it does, remove the object and enjoy your new friend!

i had to use this method to wake up lilac, and trust me, it works like a dream. she has slight MSA (probably from being inactive in a box for 20 years), but once she’s awake everything runs smoothly. reblog to save a comatose furby

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me, making a post on tumblr:

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