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[jalisanwhitley]

Bring Your Friends...But Not Too Many! #BlackInBanff

It’s the last night of a four-day trip to Banff, Alberta with my boyfriend and our good friend Melissa and I’ve been thinking a lot about blackness as disruptive in predominately white spaces. Beyond the picturesque landscapes and stunting on the gram, I’ve been thinking a lot about the whitewashing of various aspects of travel. 

During one of my boyfriend and I’s hikes at Moraine Lake we met a white man from Detroit who had been coming for years. He asked us where we were from and engaged in a short conversation. He was so excited to see Black Americans on the trail because he had seen so few over the years. After telling us about his daughter’s Black boyfriend who refused to go on hiking trips, he encouraged us to keep hiking, camping, and visiting national parks and to “bring your friends...but not too many!”

This isn’t the first time I’ve heard how surprising it is to see Black people in x,y,z place, but it’s got me thinking about the narratives we buttress about where Black people are welcomed or expected and how this perpetuates a sort of revisionist history. I’m sure many of us have bought into the belief that people of color don’t hike, camp, swim, or generally enjoy the outdoors. But these simple proclamations ignore a history of hostility, stares, segregation and lynching of people of color in white spaces including campgrounds and national parks. Many Black people went into the woods and didn’t come back. There is a cost to "bringing too many" and being too much of ourselves. This history still has implications today. In a 2009 National Park Service survey, 16% of African Americans said they hadn’t visited a national park because they thought the parks were unsafe and in Trump’s America black bodily safety is a never-ending concern.

When we say POC don’t frequent these spaces we ignore the indigenous people who lived on these lands for centuries before European arrival and were pushed from their land to make way for the development of these national parks. We ignore groups like Outdoor Afro that are hiking all over the country and shifting the narratives around Black people and our relation to nature.

These musings sent me down a Twitter Black hole looking for voices that would complicate this whitewashing of travel. I fell into the writings of Bani Amor, the work of Voices of Our Nations Arts Foundation (VONA) travel writers and The Panorama Journal. It was in the introduction to this journal that I came across this quote from Faith Adiele:

This powerfully (and I must admit embarrassingly) flipped my whole perception of traveling. I’d bought into this narrative that Black people don’t travel and are new, niche, or marginal. This work has re-introduced me to a forgotten truth: We’re here. We always have been. Our very survival has often required that we  traverse borders despite erasure, forced removal, and marginalization. 

There is so much to unpack about my duty as a traveler that is both black and woman but also privileged economically and culturally as an American in the world. The trip has been amazing but the money we’ve spent per night on lodging and food at the Fairmont borders on irresponsible when you think of the impact that money could make in the lives of the workers. Not to mention my boyfriend are I were two of the handful of brown people I’ve seen on the trip that weren’t workers. I’ve done a lot of deep thinking about ethical traveling and want to totally change the way I use my tourism dollars to invest more directly into local communities. The choices I make when traveling can either complicate or reaffirm conventional views about what traveling looks like and who gets to own the narrative of our lands, our cultures, and our histories.

[jalisanwhitley]

GLO’ng up in Portgual

So as usual I’m months late with recaps but I wanted to do a Portugal highlights post while I still remember all the things I loved and ppl inevitably ask for recommendations. 

I went to Lisbon, Porto and Lagos, Portugal with Trova Trip on their hosted trip with Gloria Atanmo from the Blog Abroad. I went strictly off the strength of Glo because I love her personality and following along on her travels through social media. I’m so happy on went on her trip because 1.) Glo is amazing and so of course wonderful people were attracted to the trip because of her and 2.) I’m sure if I went on any other of their trips it would be all young white people like most other small group tour companies attract. This is no shade to Trova Trip because the co-founders are amazing, funny, and so friendly, but you can tell from the marketing that late-20s/30 something yuppie’s are the target audience. 

With that in mind, I’m sure they were in for a surprise when half of the attendees were black women and you could tell the mismatch between the trip guide (young, fresh out of college, bro-ish character) and the clientele. Despite that, Portugal was beautiful and I definitely plan to go back as a stopover on a trip to Morocco in the future. 

I’m not a beach girl so Lagos didn’t make my highlights, but if you are then this might be right up your alley (think Florida, laidback, beaches, water...lots of older white folks). 

MY PORTUGAL TOP 5:

1. Doing a Wine Tour in the Duoro Valley

Despite my best attempts, my palette will never progress beyond Moscato (judge your mom), but I don’t let that keep me away from a good wine tour. I think wineries are gorgeous and the wineries in the Duoro Valley didn’t disappoint. You can get to the Duoro Valley from Porto which is worth staying in for 2 days in its own right. It felt like a smaller, more laidback version of Libson and is equally as beautiful. 

We went to three different port wineries and the port at each tasted completely different so if you’re in the Duoro Valley try as many as possible to find the one you liked. My favorite ended up being Fonseca Wineries. 

2. Visiting Lisbon During the World Cup

A lot of this couldn’t be pre-planned but we were in Portugal while they were playing in the World Cup and this made it a one in a life time experience. Portugal shuts down for the World Cup. No games are played. There are crowds of hundreds watching the games in public parks with large screens every day and the energy is on another level. 

Even if you don’t go during the World Cup but you’re a sports fan, or just a foodie who doesn’t like making decision, go to Time Out Market in Lisbon. There are 15+ different food vendors and they have a big screen TV. There was one guy at the table next to us who was very passionate about his team and brought a whole 5 foot flag along to rep his set. 

3. Visiting Sintra

Yes, it’s touristy but its a must do. Tripadvisor will tell you so. Your aunt and uncle who went last year will tell you so. And now I’m telling you to. Pena Palace really does look like Disneyland and the architecture at Quinta Regaleira of Sintra is absolutely beautiful. The town itself is also really quaint so I would definitely plan to spend a full day. 

BRING WALKING SHOES AND WATER. There is so so much walking. To be fair there are buses and hop-on, hop-off buses and Airbnb even has experience trips to the area. But I wanted to Wonder Woman and hike to the top of Pena Palace and BAY-BEE. When I tell you my soul left my body no less than 3 times on the way up.  That is a real life hike. 

4. Our apartment in Lisbon

We stayed in Almaria - Ex Libris Apartments and if you know me, you know i’m a bibliophile so the fact that these apartments were book themed gave me EVERY-THING. 

Beyond how well designed the whole place is, it’s very well-located and there’s rooftop apartments with wonderful views of the city. 

5. The Lisbon African Roots Tour

I did the Airbnb Experience with Naky. If you’re into history, learning about the slave trade outside of the U.S. or just generally want an alternative way to see a lot of the parts of Lisbon that you won’t see on another tours I would recommend it. I learned SO much about the African influence and history in Portugal historically and in the present. With that said, the tour is a marathon. It lasted 5 hours before I tapped out and most folks stayed later on after dinner. 

Honorable Mention: MY BUNS AFTER ALL THAT WALKING.

Only half kidding. Libson in particular is all steep inclines so get your walking shoe game on fleek or you will be embarrassed. I walked the majority of places so by the end of the trip my thighs were burning and you couldn’t tell me I wasn’t an Olympic athlete. 

[jalisanwhitley]

Out of Many, One People ...Jamaica, Country 30.

I’ve finally got the breathing room from a whirlwind work week to sit and reflect on my long weekend in Treasure Beach, Jamaica at the bi-annual Calabash Literary Festival. It was SUCH a good experience! Not only was it country 30 on my #30Before30 bucket list adventure, it was the space I needed to be in at just the right time. Jamaica’s mantra “Out of Many, One People” was such a fitting backdrop for a weekend that brought authors, poets, and book nerds from all over the world together over a common love for literature. For this one weekend, we were truly family. 

I have been thinking a lot about the power and importance of female friendships and how imbalanced I’ve felt as a few of my key friendships have ebbed and flowed and I’ve been on the journey of making adult friendships (the ish is hard!). So I’ve been really focused on intentionally and authentically connecting with other women who share similar interests to me. With that in mind, I met up with 10 strangers (or soon to be friends if your glass is half full) that were all a part of Glory Edim’s Well-Read Black Girl virtual book club to attend the festival. 

The trip was organized by CrushGlobal (Kristin is an amazing woman of color who curated an intimate and authentic space and vibe the whole weekend). We rented Jake’s Seaweed Villa for the three-day weekend and attended talks and readings by some of the greatest, authors, poets, and poet laureates in the world during the festival. 

When I tell y’all I was living lavishhhh. The villa came with four ground staff, a chef, and we got a sponsorship from Appleton Rum so the drinks were endless for the weekend.

We even had a private book club meeting with just us 10 girls and Tayari Jones, author of “An American Marriage,” one of my favorite books this year (and an Oprah’s book club book to boot!). 

Glory brought some of her friends to the book club, little did we know her friends would be poet Safiya Sinclair and author/NYU Professor Mitchell S. Jackson. As an aside Mitchell was the most humble person I’ve ever met. He TOTALLY downplayed him being a writer until I googled him. He was like “I dabble in writing and teach college students”. Like nah fam. You’re an award-winning author, Senior Fellow at TED, and teach at NYU.  

But that was how the whole weekend was. These accomplished men and women who have changed lives with their words all walked among us, broke bread, and shared our common love for the written word. 

Tbh, at the festival itself some of the readings were hit and miss but when they hit, they HIT! Some of my new faves are Malika Booker (do yourself a favor and see her live), Patricia Smith, and Safia Elhillo. I was already looking forward to Warshan Shire and she did not disappoint. Her vulnerability and the rawness of her poems were even more so in-person. She even wrote a poem for  Joyce Carol Vincent, a young, Black woman from London who was found dead in her apartment 3 years before any of her family and friends knew. 

It’s Joyce’s story that continues to stick with me after the festival and brings me back to the power of friendships between women. She was a beautiful woman, with more than a few admirers by numerous accounts. But still it took THREE YEARS for someone to realize she was dead. No one was checking for her. As the other women and I discussed Jouce we came to the conclusion that she couldn’t have had close female friends (and the articles about her seemed to corroborate that) because women look out for one another. We care about each other and SEE each other in ways that the wider world doesn’t. 

This weekend at Calabash I felt truly seen. For those three days, women from all walks of life came together and discussed books, life, love, and all the funny things in between. We created authentic connections that will live far past our time in Jamaica. For that reason, there couldn’t have been another place in the world I’d rather have chosen as my milestone country. 

[jalisanwhitley]

We need to embrace our messiness more. We need to embrace the ways we are in process more. Very often Black girls don't get the opportunity to be in process.

Brittney Cooper “Eloquent Rage”

[jalisanwhitley]

Singapore & Malaysia for Chinese New Year

I’m writing this from the wonderful United Club lounge in Tokyo airport on a layover during my 21-hour flight back to the States. I mention this because it’s spacious and modern, has two food stations, two liquor stations and a great view of the runway if watching airplanes take off is your thing. And I got in FO’ FREE with one of my two free lounge passes per year with my United Explorer card. (As a note, if you fly United a bunch this could be a good card, but there are definitely better bangs for you buck like the Chase Sapphire Preferred card with points you can transfer to more airline and hotel partners).

Anyway doe *in my Kat Stacks voice* I’ve spent the past week splitting my time between Singapore and Penang, Malaysia. The first half I spent with folks from the Young Blacks that Travel meetup group and did Penang, Malaysia solo. I almost skipped out on the trip because I was fresh off of a trip to Colorado Springs and Costa Rica celebrating my cousin’s 30th. But I’m happy I came.  I would definitely say you can do Singapore in 2, 3 days max. I’d recommend focusing more time in Malaysia.

Singapore

Singapore is one of the cleanest and most modern cities I’ve ever visited. It’s been on the bucket list for awhile because I’ve wanted to visit Gardens By the Bay. That said, it’s definitely a layover destination. In fact, the Chiangi Singapore airport offers free city tours if you have a long layover. This is probably enough to hit the highlights of the city. That’s also probably the best bet for your pocket.

This is up there with Sydney and London as EXPENSIVE AF travel destinations. Basic meals were in the $20 a piece range and drinks were about the same price. You can find some deals in Chinatown, so if you’re gonna be spending some time there I’d highly suggesting maximizing your money by eating in this neighborhood.

If you’re spending a few days in Singapore I’d suggest you hit up:

Gardens by the Bay

It’s the whole reason I came! Every night there is a free light show that you can see. Here are the views:

The SkyBar at Cé La Vie when you’re feeling fancy and want a great view of the city. The cost to go up is about 20 Singapore dollars which can be used as a credit toward food or drink (but you won’t be able to actually afford any food or drink at this price point so be prepared to throw in a few more dollars). It has a hip and young professional vibe with a bar on one side and a lounge/dance club on the other.

This is the view of the city from the top:

Followed by a drink at this really cool, hidden Speakeasy called The Other Room. It’s behind this unmarked door where you just put two fingers to ring a doorbell. It’s a nice, intimate feel and they have an extensive cocktail list. But best of all was the server Chai. He was EVERY-THING. The most fabulous person I’ve ever met and he was willing to connect us with some of his other friends in the industry. 

For a cheap and cute breakfast/lunch/co-working space go to Free the Robot. This is one of the most affordable places I found near Clarke Quay where we were staying and I really liked the robot theme and the fact that a lot of young people were co-working here.

And because we had to do it for the culture, we went to say Black Panther in Imax and I GOT MY ENTIRE LIFE. #WakandaForever

It was even better because the Singaporean people who attended were in no way attached to the Black experience but were just as excited to see the movie. It’s funny how internationally, it’s just seen as a Marvel superhero movie and they don’t think of the racial politics of it, while in the states its being seen as a defining black moment. Either way, Ryan Coogler better get that international coint!

Penang, Malaysia

I did a solo side trip to Penang because it was a UNESCO world heritage site known for it’s street art and pre-war architecture. When I saw that my 45-minute in traffic ride from the airport to my airbnb was only $5 I knew it was gonna be a good trip. I only spent two days but you could definitely fit more in and also travel to to Kuala Lumpur on the mainland (i’m not a big city fan so I opted out of KL).

If you’re only in Penang for a few days I’d suggest:

Staying at this really cute, well-located BNB.

Doing Ms. Pearly’s cooking class. It’s a bit more expensive than other cooking classes/food tours in Malaysia at $66 but it was well worth the price in my opinion. We started with a tour of the wet market where she talked about the health benefits of the various vegetables we’d be cooking with and how food is used as medicine in many parts of Asia.

(tip: while you’re at the wet market get Appom Balik. It’s peanut butter pancake deliciousness and less than 50 cents). 

From there, we were driven by her husband to their home where each person had an individual work station where we were able to cook three recipes. She has a garden at her house where all the herbs are gathered so everything is local and fresh. I am not a cook and was still able to get a lot out of the cooking class and everything we had was really delicious.

Check Out the Street Art 

Walking around Georgetown. I had no sim card or data outside of my airbnb but Google offline maps came through in the clutch. I found a map that points out all of the different street art and just followed along to that and wandered the neighborhood.

Get a relaxing $12 hour massage and reflexology at The Sanctuary Thai Therapy. 

EAT ALL THE THINGS! I didn’t get a chance to check out enough of the hawker stands but Penang is known for great food, so if you’re here definitely dedicate time to exploring the cheap and amazing food. 

[jalisanwhitley]

Haiti Jazz Festival

I just got back from visiting Haiti for five days during their annual jazz festival. I was really excited to visit the country (especially after y’all President and his shithole country comments). I was really intrigued by the history of the country and the legacy of revolution and independence. I went really wanting to prove the dominant narrative of Haiti wrong. To be honest, the trip was a mixed bag. I’m happy that I went, but I don’t think I would return anytime soon. 

The Good:

The jazz festival on the last night was so much fun. I have a new found love for Norman Brown, he was a phenomenal performer. Talented is an understatement. Michael Brun had the party rocking at the end and we danced on the beach until 2:00 a.m. 

The group. I went with a company called The Haitian Nomad. I learned about the company through Nomadness Travel Tribe and followed the leader Richard on Facebook. He pulled a really great group of people together - most who had done a lot of traveling. 

Hanging out at the Bassin Bleu on our way to Jacmel. It was fun to go with the group even though the waterfall itself wasn’t the biggest or most elaborate. Definitely bring water shoes and be prepared for hiking a bit, jumping over rocks, and doing a bit of rappelling. There will be guides that you can pay there to help you but be prepared, they will be wanting tips and will fight over you a bit because that’s their one source of income. 

There are a few different basins leading up to Basin Bleu and the water is so beautiful. I will say it’s not worth driving all the way out just for the Basin in my opinion. Definitely plan to spend some time in more of Jacmel as well. 

The resort for the last night of the Jazz Festival. We stayed at the Decameron All-Inclusive resort which was pretty and right on the water. The group quickly took advantage of the all-inclusive food and drinks and caught some sun. I also liked the hotel we stayed in the other nights. It was really pretty and had great views of the city of Port-Au-Prince. 

The meh:

The organization/communication of the trip.  I would definitely say that if you’re going to visit the country you should have friends/family out there or go with an established tour company because there’s a real lack of infrastructure in the country. I’m happy that I went this way because I wouldn’t have been able to do it on my own. There’s no uber, many streets don’t have street names, and it’s generally hard to navigate/know if you’re being bamboozled (the tourist tax is a real thing). 

That said, my experience with this tour company was a bit of a mixed bag. Because of our jam-packed schedule we often were running behind and didn’t get to do/see all the things on our itinerary which was a bit disappointing given the price and the itinerary being the biggest draw for me. Additionally, because we were often running behind schedule we wouldn’t have lunch until 3:00-4:00 in the afternoon which was just too late given that we had to eat breakfast before 7:00 a.m. each morning to catch transportation. 

I think that there could have been better communication when things didn’t go as planned, but I understood for the most part because in travel things can often go awry and it’s often hard to get thing nailed down in country because of the lack of infrastructure. 

Overall, I wouldn’t personally recommend the three-city Jazz Festival (Cap Haitian, Port-Au-Prince, Jacmel) itinerary over five days with the company. It was just too much. We spent the majority of our time on the road (and the roads are a hot mess so bring motion sickness pills/bracelet) or on flights which diminished the experience. Having the whole baby plane to ourselves made for some good social media stunting, but you will feel every dip and turn. I had to close my eyes and call on Jesus a few times LOL.

For that amount of time I would recommend staying in 1-2 cities and really focus on the jazz/arts experience. I can’t speak to their other experiences though, so those may be better. 

The Bad:

The swarming crowd at the Citadelle in Cap-Haïtien. I was in no way prepared for the crowd at the Citadelle. Because there’s not a lot of job opportunity whenever tourists come crowds of people swarm, trying to sell you goods or offer their donkeys to carry you up to the Citadelle because it’s a rigorous climb with the incline. As soon as you get out people are trying to sell you things in Creole and crowding in very close. You can barely walk or see around you. 

Between the overwhelm of that, dodging donkey sh*%, and the downpour on an incline I had to throw in the towel. I was just not built for the chaos of it all. But others in the group said the views from top were worth it, so I would recommend others go and just mentally prepare yourself. 

The Port-Au-Prince Airport. Lord this airport was the biggest mess I’ve ever experienced in all of the 25 countries I’ve visited. When we arrived for our half-day trip to Cap Haitian (which I wouldn’t recommend going for this short) the airport was super packed. It looked like half the country was trying to leave. There were people everywhere and not that much organization. Thankfully, one girl in our group spoke Creole and was able to find a staff person who navigated us to the front of the line and got us through. I would HIGHLY recommend you learn Creole or come with someone who speaks it or navigating any part of Haiti, and especially the airport, will be difficult. 

Flooding. On our way back from Jacmel to Port-Au-Prince it started to rain and the roads completely flooded. It caused a big standstill with the cars and the roads got pretty bad/scary to navigate. There was trash EVERYWHERE because of a lack of drainage systems and trash pick up. Because of this flooding happens quickly and trash spreads into the water which I would imagine could spread/exacerbate illness through the water supply. On our way home one of the vans started to flood from the roof of the car and floor. My car got stuck in a ditch in the side of the road. Thankfully two people walking by quickly helped us get out. 

Getting sick- I don’t know what I ate or drank but I spent one full day vomiting and had to sit out one night’s activities. It’s the first time I’ve been that sick traveling. Thankfully my travel mates brought Pepto and some Haitian electrolytes and by the mid-morning of the next day I was in good enough shape to enjoy the all-inclusive resort *praise dances*

Overall, I’m happy that I got to visit. I would recommend if others go: definitely go with a guide/friends/family that speak Creole and has on-the-ground experience of the country, make sure that you get a chance to really experience/learn more about Haitian history, and make time to really dig deep into the cities you’re visiting. 

[jalisanwhitley]

Finding Alignment in Colombia: New Year’s 2018!

Each year I try to ring in the New Year in a new country and this year my friend Allison and I decided on Colombia. We spent the New Year together in Cartagena and Bogota and I traveled solo in Medellin. Below are the hot takes from my trip. 

Cartagena 

Before going everyone gushed about Cartagena and universally hated Bogota, but surprisingly I felt the exact opposite. Cartagena was just not my city. The men were so aggressive and everyone is constantly trying to sell you something. I couldn’t go two steps without a car slowing down to catcall or someone’s son yelling out “Morena, Morena.” Needless to say, by the end of our five days there I was more than ready to get out of dodge because I was not prepared to go to Colombian jail for poppin’ off.  

That said, there were a few things I really liked about Cartagena. The walled city is beautiful and I had two really good meals at La Cevicheria and La Mulata. 

I also really liked that because we were staying in a local neighborhood we got to witness some of the new year’s traditions including the burning of the Años Viejos dolls.*  Años Viejos are life size dolls that are used to symbolically leave behind bad things from the previous year. Allison and I made our own struggle dolls and tried (unsuccessfully) to burn them on a grill on our balcony. 

It was absolute hilarity, but a great chance for us to sit and vision all the thing we wanted to let go and all the things we wanted to call into our new year. I decided that 2018 would be my year of alignment. I want everything I do, say, promote, or involve myself in to align with my values. Oddly enough, as soon as I declared that to be my intention for the year, it continually came up in conversations. I feel like the universe has some strong things up it’s sleeve for me this year. 

*word to the wise, if you don’t speak Spanish staying in the hood like we did may not be the best idea. Neither Uber or the local cab drivers could ever find our place and most of the time they side eyed us, like where y’all staying?! I stayed prayed up during our walks home LOL. 

Another highlight of the first leg of the trip was getting outside of the city to visit Palenque with Alex Rocha. He was recommended by Nomadness Travel Tribe and is a local afro-Colombian so I was excited to visit with a knowledgeable guide.  Palenque was established in the 1600s by escaped Afro-Colombian slaves and was the first free community in the Americas. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and the residents are completely self-governed. They have their own police force and you can only move there is you marry in. Seeing black self-determination up close was so powerful. For this history if nothing else, I would recommend visiting. 

Bogota

On January 2nd we flew out of Cartagena and were off to Bogota. I immediately started to like the city as soon as we got in the uber to our Airbnb. The city was very walkable and clean (unlike the neighborhood we were staying in in Cartagena) and the airbnb we stayed in was cute and an easy walk to the downtown. 

Most people don’t like Bogota because it rains often, but the weather gods showed out during our free walking tour with Beyond Colombia and Bogota Graffiti Tour. If I had to choose one, I’d definitely prioritize the graffiti tour. It’s a donation based tour and you get 2.5 hours of really interesting background on the street art culture in the city and see some dope art you probably wouldn’t on your own. 

We went through La Candelaria which is a really cool hipster neighborhood and ended downtown seeing some of the more political art. One mural taught me about some of the not widely talked about negative programs the U.S. has had in Colombia in recent history. 

PLAN Colombia was a bilateral agreement between then President Bill Clinton and Colombian President Andres Pastrana in 1999 to generate social and economic revitalization, end the armed conflict in Colombia and create an anti-narcotics strategy. The program ended up being a way for the U.S. military to fight FARC guerrillas, and one of the main incentives in the program was killing guerillas. But since the country was paid by the number of bodies there were widespread incidences of kidnappings and disappearances as homeless people and others were taken outside of the city, put in guerrilla uniforms and killed. I had never heard about this before and the program didn’t end until 2012. It’s so crazy how far the tentacles of bad American foreign policy run and how little of it the average American knows about. With that said, if you’re coming to Bogota, check out Bogota Graffiti Tour’s FB page for upcoming events and to learn more about their community work. 

After our free walking tour we also went on a food tour with Beyond Colombia. The tour is free, you only pay for the food you eat and tip the guide whatever you’d like at the end. Even though I don’t eat meat there was still plenty on the tour that I could eat and it was an excellent way to sample some of the local cuisine and figure out places you’d like to come back to. I even had my first cup of coffee (well, cappuccino). I know, it’s blasphemy to have gone 28 years of my life without even. But you’ll hate me even more when I tell you I thought it was gross! 

The guide was really dope and we met a girl who was solo traveling as well. She hipped us to the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center which I LOVED. 

Medellin 

After Bogota I went solo to Medellin and it was MAGIC. The airport is pretty far from the main city, but the ride was so picturesque. Medellin is in a valley and it’s just views upon views as you look along the winding roads. 

I stayed in a really cute Airbnb in Poblado that I’d highly recommend. Though, I only got to spend 3 days in town they were perfect because I really got to sit with myself and do some reflection on what I want out of 2018. Though I’ve always identified as an introvert, some of my best moments are when I’m connecting authentically with people. And that’s what made this trip so amazing. I got the chance to meet people who were so aligned with how I think and want to operate in the world. We talked about responsible tourism, politics, womanhood, and how navigate being a carefree and joyful woman of color. This leg of the trip was just one of those times when I felt like I was exactly where I needed to be. 

I went on a really good tour of La Sierra Barrio with a new tour company that’s really committed to responsible tourism and investing parts of the proceeds back into the community. This was really important to me because so much of the tours of local neighborhoods feel like poverty porn. You ogle how the other half lives, visit kids who put on a song and dance for you, and then return to the comfort of your hotel. This tour was nothing like that and it was so refreshing (not to mention the views were crazy).  

Our tour guide Milena grew up in Medellin and talked about the transformation of the city, but also talked about her own experiences as a tour guide and why she and her partner started this tour. She talked about some of the really rude/insensitive ways that foreigners would come to Colombia looking for a Narcos experience and not really taking into account that this is present day history and that a lot of families were greatly harmed by that history. She wanted to do a tour that really dug into and gave back to communities. She spent months before her first tour talking to community members and going to community meetings to get a sense of whether they’d like tourists to come in and what they would like out of the tour. It was so powerful to sit and have these conversations, because these are things I really grapple with during my travels. 

Milena was such a dope and multi-faceted woman that I’m convinced the universe put in my path for a reason. Not only is a tour guide, but she also trains on revolutionary women’s health topics, and even took me and a girl I met shopping for crystals. I’m so so glad that I got to see the city through her eyes and for once let go of the itinerary to really connect and allow for the vibe to lead the way. 

Two key lessons that I’m taking away from the trip are about presence and alignment. Medellin was magic because I got out of my shell. I met up with a girl I met online through Nomadness and allowed myself to be vulnerable and open in our conversations in a way that allowed us to connect in a really deep way. Moving forward I want to allow myself to really be present not only in the places I’m in, but with the people I’m there with. Moreover, I want to align my travels with my values (social justice, equity, community-centeredness, etc.)

[jalisanwhitley]

Top 5 of 2017

Each year I spend the last few weeks of the year looking back on all that I’ve done over the year to distill down what’s gone well, where I can improve, and the lessons that I want to bring into the new year. Reflecting on the year the universe just said eff it, fend for yourself 2017, I decided to focus on the top five things I’ve done, books I’ve read, and lessons that I’ve learned as we close out 2017 and get ready for 2018. I’m claiming 2018 as the year of alignment and fruition!  

Top 5 Experiences

2017 was the year of domestic travel. Last year I was gallivanting all over the globe, but a lot more of my time this year was spent with friends and family in the states (though I did sneak a few international trips in). What made the below trips great were the memories I got to build with people I love. 

1. Kayaking in the Poconos

My friend Akilah let me go on her annual family camping trip to the Poconos and it was amazing. The chance to be fully disconnected (phone signal was a no go) and just enjoy each other and nature was amazing. We had a whole 90s R&B session that will forever be a Top 5 memory. I would love to do this every year. 

2. Visiting San Francisco, California/Napa Valley

My friend Corey and I did a whirlwind tour of San Francisco and Napa. In 3 days we did Muir Woods, Sonoma, Napa and I even got to see a little bit of the nightlife at the Colors R&B only party. It gave me a little taste of the city and was definitely cause to visit again. 

3. Girls (and a husband) trip to Capetown and Johannesburg, South Africa 

We went on safari, wine tours, slayed the beach, visited table mountain (and drank $4 margaritas on top), visited the Apartheid Museum, visited Robben Island, and made lots of memories. An annual friend’s trip definitely has to happen. 

4. ATVing in Mexico

During my boyfriend and I’s baecation in Puerto Vallarta we got to ATV for a few hours in the jungle and it was beautiful, bumpy, and ridiculously muddy! After the trip we got to stop at a really cute beach town. Really dope experience. 

5. Thanksgiving with my boyfriend’s family in Tennessee. They were so welcoming and I was authentically myself the whole time. It just felt natural. 2018 will definitely be a year that I incorporate more family time into the year. 

Top 5 Books I’ve Read

I am obsessed with books (they’re pretty much my love language). Of the 40 i’ve read this year, these have risen to the top. 

1. Don’t Call Us Dead - Danez Smith

This is the best book I've read all year. I'm not usually big on poetry but this pulled me in right from the beginning. Every time I thought I had read the most powerful poem I'd ever read, I turned the page. Danez is a gift and he deserves every accolade that they receive. The stories of black boy and manhood span police brutality, sexuality and living with HIV/AIDS. You can feel yourself on the journey of desire, hurt, hope, pain, shame, and rage. I can't wait to see what Danez has got in store next!

2. When Breath Becomes Air - Paul Kalanithi

I finished this book in one sitting. It was so beautiful and so engaging and such a gift. From the foreword from Abraham Verghese to the afterword from his wife the book was deeply touching and sincere. The book asks the essential questions of living and dying well and honoring the gifts we have to share in the time in between. I'm so grateful to have experienced this story.

3. Homegoing - Yaa Gyasi 

This story follows the lineage of two half-sisters, Effia and Esi from Ghana to America from slavery to the present. There were times when I had to stop reading because the story of particular character stuck with me so much that I had to let their experience settle in so I could fully appreciate it. The book was a great story about the power of lineage and the importance of knowing where you come from.

4. Present Over Perfect - Shauna Niequist

I loved this book. I found myself highlighting a good half of the book. This came at the perfect time in my life. This year has been about pruning and letting the dead things go and this book was a perfect companion to that process. I'm often turned off by things that are heavily religious leaning but in this book it wasn't distracting - a lot of the lessons were more spiritual life lessons than preachy. The overall lessons about leaning away from external confirmation of your worth through achievement, busyness and new experiences (as means of running away from truly sitting with yourself) and leaning into stillness and true connection with the people you love will be lessons I continue to return to.

5. What I Know for Sure - Oprah Winfrey 

This book was full of absolute gems. I love to read memoirs and other books where folks reflect back on the lessons they’ve learned in life. I feel like its a master class from some of the greatest and can help you navigate challenges and give greater meaning to your journey. One of my favorite quotes from the book, also leads into one of the top lessons I’ve learned this year ““There is one irrefutable law of the universe: We are each responsible for our own life. If you’re holding anyone else accountable for your happiness, you’re wasting your time. You must be fearless enough to give yourself the love you didn’t receive.”

Top 5 Lessons I’ve Learned

1. You are the only one who can save you. Stop looking for other places, people, or things to make you happy or whole. You have to do the work of finding internal peace, comfort, and joy. No one/nothing else can fill your voids.  Be driven by your own intuition and the truths that are already within you. When you act against that intuition you are moving in fear. Fear of your own power. Fear of taking the steps you already know you should take. Fear of what the inevitable missteps and mistakes say about you. This fear only kicks the can down the road. Do the work. You’re already enough even in your incompleteness.

2. Emotional control and maturity is king. Don’t let others actions (or non-actions) drive your emotional response. As Ken McLeod says “freedom is the moment-by-moment experience of not being run by one’s own reactive mechanisms.” This was a hard lesson for me this year and will honestly be something I continue to grapple with. With so much change and uncertainty happening in my personal and professional life I was often driven by the highs and lows of it all causing myself undue stress. Meditation has been a big help in helping me gain perspective and control (at least in the short term) over my feelings and negative thoughts. Insight Timer has been an amazing app for guided meditation. 

3. A la Queen Chani Nicholas “each and every thing that is happening in my life is happening because it must. Because that is the order of things. Because that is what is and so I choose to accept that it is happening.“

4. And because she’s so dope, another Chani Nicholas truth bomb: “Not all problems are permanent. Not all refusals are the end of the story. Not all roadblocks mark the end of the trail. Some are put onto my path to teach me something about my resilience. Some are put in my path so that I remember to reach out for help and feel the power of interdependence. Some are put in my path so that I am forced to develop a new skill.”  I’ve experienced the gifts of experiencing my own and others setbacks and the beauty of rebuilding. It can be done. People are forgiving of your humanness. We ALL are struggling to figure it out as we go no matter what it looks like from the outside (some of us are just a bit better at spin). Sit in the lessons and be grateful for what they have to offer you in your pruning and growth.

5. Getting away from an office and working for yourself will not be the magic pill that makes working easier. If anything it gets harder, but it’ll be worth it because you’re doing it on your terms. I’ll cheat and share a series of business lessons I’ve learned over my self-employed journey:

[jalisanwhitley]

Refuse to inherit dysfunction. Learn new ways of living instead of repeating what you’ve lived through.

Thema Davis

[jalisanwhitley]

How We Resist. How We Rise.

After visiting Charleston, SC this past week (my second time this year) I thought I was going to write a post about the food, how walkable and clean the city is, the architecture, or how this is fast approaching top 5 status for my favorite cities in the U.S. (all these things are true). 

But what has stayed with me most from the trip (outside of Fig, which seriously deserves every single award it has received) was visiting Mother Emanuel AME Church. You may recall it as the church where Dylann Roof shot and killed 9 people. 

What made the visit to the church so powerful was thinking about my own connections to the church. I grew up in a Pentecostal church in a small city in Upstate, NY. I come from a family that’s heavily involved in the church so I was there for Monday night prayer, Thursday night Bible study and Sunday services (sometimes the morning and the afternoon service each week). For me, church was the home you take for granted. A routine thing you did out of obligation (begrudgingly, especially after aging out of falling asleep during service). 

As I stood in front of the doors of Mother Emanuel I thought about the people who walked through those doors in June 17, 2015. I thought of the people who were like me and came out of routine. That took for granted that anything out of the ordinary would be happening that night. I was reminded me of those four little girls, who like me visited church with their parents each Sunday because it was the thing you did. Those girls who walked in and because of the color of their skin never walked out again. 

I also thought of those people that came that night looking for refuge. The people who couldn’t find anything else to get out of bed for that day and came to these doors looking for hope. For salvation. None of those people got what they came for that June day on 2015. 

Walking through the neighborhoods surrounding that church I got a feeling for the people who are largely absent in the touristy parts of the city that I had previously visited. I took note of the changing ambiance and architecture in the East side of the city. I thought about the ancestors whose blood, sweat and tears have made the city that tops many best of lists. The Charleston residents who are largely absent from conversations about the cities growth. Black people who are connected to a larger struggle to be seen, to be heard, to be valued. 

I thought about Felicia Sander, one of the few survivors of Dylann Roof’s rampage who stated that because of him “... she can no longer close her eyes to pray. She can't stand to hear the sound of firecrackers, or even the patter of acorns falling.” I returned to the writings of the G.O.A.T. Ms. Rachel Kaadzi Ghansah (seriously read everything she’s ever written) who wrote a beautiful piece about Charleston and Dylann Roof that moved me in ways that I couldn’t describe when I first read it and came full circle in front of those church steps. 

When Dylann Roof came to 72 year old Polly Shepherd that night after shooting her fellow parishoners he told her “I'm going to leave you here to tell the story.” It’s the part of the story of that night that gives me pause. What does that mean for those of us that remain, the storytellers? What is our duty? As we stand in the shadow of places that have been the site of great triumph and resistance as well as pain and sorrow, what kind of stories are we to tell? 

Do we talk about what we’ve overcome or how much overcoming there still is to do? We could give in to the sorrow that envelopes our world. We’d have every right to. But I choose to tell the story of those of us who did not die.

This is where Rachel Kaadzi Ghansah too chooses to turn her focus as she contemplates the lessons to be gleaned in the wake of that tragedy. Though she’s writing specifically about the survivors and their families, she could be talking about any and all Black people and what our resilience represents. 

We “...have the ability to stay imaginative, to express grace, a refusal to become like them in the face of horror...to forever be unbroken. It reminds us that we already know the way out of bondage and into freedom. This is how I will remember those left behind, not just in their grief, their mourning so deep and so profound, but also through their refusal to be vanquished. That even when denied justice for generations, in the face of persistent violence, we insist with a quiet knowing that we will prevail. I thought I needed stories of vengeance and street justice, but I was wrong. I didn't need them for what they told me about Roof. I needed them for what they said about us. That in our rejection of that kind of hatred, we reveal how we are not battling our own obsolescence. How we resist. How we rise.

Here’s to rising. 

[jalisanwhitley]

Banishing Busy

I like most other people get caught up in the cult of busy and success. Wondering if we’re doing enough and whether we are enough (hint you are). But sometimes we need a reminder and that’s why I’m so thankful for Omif Safi’s commencement speech which re-posted below:

“So if you remember nothing else about love and justice, remember this part: that other great socialist Jew, not Bernie Sanders — the Palestinian one named Jesus — doesn’t actually become Christ until he is 30 years old.

Y’all are awesome, you are not any cooler than Jesus.

That Indian prince, Siddhartha, does not become the Buddha until he is 35 years old. You are not any more enlightened than the Buddha. That extraordinary Arabian visionary Muhammad does not become the Prophet until he is 40. Y’all are not any more luminous than Muhammad.

Your life will not start down the road. This is life. Be here now. Have your heart where your feet are. There will be more to come. Embrace it, hug it, welcome it, be generous to it.

How do we remember that we are human beings, not human doings?

When someone asks you, “How are you?” Don’t shout back your to-do list. I am not asking what do you need to get done today. If we have to rephrase it, what I am really asking is, “How is your heart today?”

Take that risk with the people who deserve it, who are worthy of it, make yourself vulnerable to them, actually tell them, actually share with them: “I am really struggling today. I am doing my very best, but I can really use a hug.” You might just find that it changes the dynamic of your connection with them.

You all have done Philosophy courses, you know this: Plato. The Apology. “The unexamined life is not worth living for a human.” Examine the life. Take the time to reflect. Sit down with your own self.

Banish this word “busy” from your vocabulary and ask instead, “Is it meaningful?”

[jalisanwhitley]

Puerto Vallarta Baecation!

I took my first international baecation to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico a few weeks ago. It was an early birthday celebration for Chris and a much needed opportunity for us to get away. We both work long and non-traditional hours and leading up to the trip we had a month of 14-hour days. Needless to say, we were TOO ready for this trip. 

The highlights were definitely ziplining and ATVing. Unfortunately, it wasn’t until the last day of the trip that we had really good fish tacos (I don’t eat meat) and found out that we had been spending wayyy to much money on food. But ay, ya live and you learn. BUT here’s some recommendations for a short 4-5 day trip so that you can do it the right way. 

Stay at this amazing Airbnb. 

The location is perfect - you’re right in the center of the romantic zone and the malecon (boardwalk) and most things are within walking distance. The condo was amazing - I will say the romantic zone is tourist central. You won’t be able to take a step without being panhandled (including when you’re eating at restaurants - it’s nuts). So if you’re looking for the most authentic experience this might not be the place to stay. But if you want something central for activities that’s affordable and really beautiful I highly recommend it. It looks exactly like the pictures and has an amazing rooftop pool, grill and lounge area. 

If you’re one of the five remaining people in the world that don’t yet have an Airbnb account, you can use my referral code for $40 off your next trip. 

Go ATVing

This was by far our favorite part of the trip. We did an ATV tour to Sayulita through Vallarta Adventures and it was definitely worth it. The tour ran from about 9:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m. We got to ride around for a long time through the jungle and a the really cute beach town of Sayulita. You’re really offroading so make sure you wear clothes you don’t care about getting dirty because you will get covered in mud. The cost was $250 per car and the cars hold up to four people so I suggest you go with a group to split the cost. 

Zipline!

We ziplined with Los Veranos Canopy Tours and had a really good time. If you book online you can save 15%. On their longer ziplines you’ll get to go right over a canyon with beautiful running water. Their staff will be on the course with you and take pictures and videos that you can buy at the end of the tour. It was a beautiful way to get out of the city and get a little adrenaline boost. 

Food

Food was hit or miss for us. We had a really pretty dinner overlooking the city at El Palomar. The food was pretty good, but a bit expensive and the portions were small. Great for a romantic dinner though. It wasn’t until our last day that we found amazing tacos at a little female-run food stand Marisma fish tacos. The fish tacos were like $2 a piece and so so good. Unfortunately we had spent all our pesos and were on the way to the airport so I couldn’t get seconds. It seems to be a woman owned and run booth. The women didn’t speak much English but threw down on the tacos! 

Overall, Puerto Vallarta wasn’t a place that I would re-visit mainly because of the panhandling and the fact that it felt more like a tourist trap than anything. But it was a cute extended weekend getaway. 

[jalisanwhitley]

The black community is perpetually required to respect black men like adults, while coddling them like children. And much like children, they believe any work done for/around/them is the same as work done by them.

Saki Benibo

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West Coast Just Might Be The Best Coast: My San Francisco Trip

I got the chance to pack a bag and spend a few days working and playing in San Francisco (h/t to the digital nomad life). Even though it was colder than I expected (like seriously bring a sweater even if it is August), I really enjoyed my time in San Francisco. One of my friends moved out here for a job at Facebook so it was a great chance to catch up and also do a bit of exploring on my own. Recap below!

I had a last-minute client deadline and Southwest wifi wouldn’t let me be great, so I spent most of my first night doing work. I did stay at the Intercontinental my first night which was BEAUTIFUL and really central. I got the chance to get out of the hotel for dinner and went to Gracias Madre, a good vegan Mexican spot (shout out to Melissa for some great restaurant recommendations). 

The next day I did a free San Francisco in one-day walking tour with Free Tours by Foot. It was a good opportunity to get a lay of city, but was definitely a bit too long. In retrospect I would’ve done one of the shorter 2-hour tours. The hills in San Francisco are no joke, so the added bonus of the tour was I now have buns of steel and got a free workout.

The highlight was riding the trolley because I’m a shameless tourist. 

After we visited Grace Cathedral (which is beautiful and worth the trip if you’re into architecture and stained glass windows) I ditched the tour for lunch at the Plant Cafe which was REALLY good.

After more work (it truly never ends and is the side no one sees about working for yourself. The work hours are whenever required until whenever it gets done) I met up with my friend Corey for Off the Grid. 

Off the Grid is a food truck festival with live music. There were lots of really good vendors (shout out Johnny’s Doughnuts for literally the best doughnut I’ve had in my life, Revenge Pies for the best apple pie in the world - fight me, hot or cold it was heavenly - and Senior Sisig for making me a believer in fries on my burrito). 

Later we walked around Little Italy and the waterfront and I got to try In-N-Out Burger *for the culture*

The next day we went into full blown team too much mode and visited Muir Woods (which is breathtaking...and even that feels like an understatement), went on a wine tour in Napa and Sonoma and then Colours party back in San Francisco.  

After spending the early part of the morning at Muir woods with Extranomical Tours (highly recommend this tour) they then took us on to three wineries in Napa and Sonoma. 

I’ll be the first to say I’m not classy enough to tell you anything about wines. But I liked that we went from a small boutique winery, to a bit more interactive one where we see the grapes up close and get a good view, to a really large winery. Can’t say that I discovered any new wines that I love hashtag #BasicPalette but it was a fun way to spend the day. As a part of our add-on package we even got to have a really great lunch in Napa. 

On my final day in town I went to Yosemite. It’s about a 4-hour ride from San Francisco, but I’d definitely recommend that if you have the time to set aside a day for a visit. I always appreciate the time to take solo time away to get reconnected with nature. It always gives me perspective and a chance to realign myself my higher purpose. 

After visiting, I’m really considered doing a couple month stint on the West Coast (probably somewhere a bit warmer than San Francisco though). The overall vibe and the amount of natural attractions definitely are pulling me towards spending a lot more time there. We’ll see what 2018 brings...

[jalisanwhitley]

Aura Fa’ Cropovaaaa

Sooooo, I’m super belated on travel updates but I definitely wanted to recap my trip to Barbados during Cropover, a really fun week-long celebration in Bridgetown, Barbads. The celebration dates back to the 1780s and marks the culmination of another successful sugar cane harvest. 

I had high expectations and I can’t say the trip met all of them. In the future I would’ve stayed in the Gap to be closer, picked some different parties and a different j’ouvert band (next time I want to do AMBush with Caesar’s Army) but overall I had a good time. 

I’m Senior Vice President of the Old Lady Gang in my regular life so i’m proud that I lasted through all the parties (There were folks who went to more than the 5 parties I did and I’m not sure how they lasted) and got to experience a bit of the culture. 

Here are the things I really enjoyed during my time in Barbados:

Lush Fete

So the flight in was a struggle and a half and we ended up landing about 4-5 hours late, so we went straight from the airport to the hotel, changed and headed to Lush fete. It was raining, muddy and the party was far out. All signs pointed to it being a rough night. BUT GOD!

Lush was L-I-T. Because of the rain and the mud everyone’s inhibitions and cares were nowhere to be found. Everyone was barefoot, the tunes were going (it’s here where I first heard what would become the anthem of the trip), and because it was a cooler fete (bring your own liquor) drinks were plentiful. 

Honorable Mention: Soca Brainwash

Although not as good as Lush for me, Soca Brainwash with DJ Private Ryan was pretty good. I love DJ Private Ryan and there were soooo many people there. They also had a lot of food vendors and the cost was included in your ticket which I really liked. But in this case the rain (it literally rains everyday) was a hinderance because the stage where most people were dancing was on a hill so I spent half the time trying to buss a while and the other half trying not to bust my ass. 

Also the VIP section we had was behind the DJ and away from everyone dancing which kind of defeated the point so we spent most of our time outside of it. 

Don’t do it fete (party) in my opinion was Brekfus fete. 

First let me say the venue was BEAUTIFUL. It was at this amazing mansion in this lush, jungle-like area that was really really nice. But because it was so beautiful (and because the food line literally took hours) there wasn’t a lot of dancing and real partying. They did have a man on stilts that was having a great time though. 

Of course, half way through the party there was a downpour (it literally rains every single day so make sure you have a protective style or are willing to embrace however you hair looks wet) so it became a mud bath. Most people ran for cover inside the mansion which kind of messed up the vibe of the party. 

Another thing I didn’t like about the party was it pretty expensive and the small plates you got at the end of standing in the line weren’t worth the time. They also had a cash bar. They were literally the only party I attended where you had to pay for liquor. There are so many other great parties happening at a similar time that next time around I’ll likely choose another. 

My Costume

I was going to put the road during Kadooment - but I want to be honest. The road was HOT (like 110 degrees direct sunlight hot) so I couldn’t make it through the whole thing. Sunscreen and a water bottle (for water, not liquor) are your friends. A lot of folks tapped out far before the end of the road. BUT my costume was super cute. I jumped with Aura band (the company is run by Rihanna’s brother, so you know I had to support). 

I will say that although the road experience was underwhelming (it felt like we were marching instead of vibing and dancing like I expected), I liked that Aura had a cool off truck with food and while you’re on the road they have runners with alcohol and water so your thirst is always quenched. 

Oistins

A lot of the restaurants in Barbados close super early and the parties during Cropover are non-stop, so every time we wanted to eat it felt like everything was closed. One night we dressed up (totally not necessary) and took a night off from partying to go to Oistins in the St. Lawrence gap (or just the Gap if you wanna seem hip and local). 

The marlin and macaroni pie was on point (even though I waited for a solid hour to get it. Island time was in full effect...) and they had karaoke (I killed a rendition of “I Wanna Dance With Somebody”) which made for a fun night. 

Mt. Gay

My friend Allison and I did a Mt. Gay rum tour. I think it cost like $10-$20 USD and it was so worth it. They give you a welcome rum punch, a history of rum in Barbados, give you a walkthrough of the factory and then let you taste 4-5 rums. I was definitely twisted by the end and we met a bunch of cool folks who we sat around and drank with. Definitely spend some time eating and visit the bar there. The bartender is great and the drinks are delicious. 

I had a good time overall and learned some lessons that’ll make the next time around even better. This was definitely good preparation for Trinidad Carnival. 

[jalisanwhitley]

Welcome Home: My First Trip to Africa

I’m so excited I finally got a chance to visit the continent of Africa. I have a goal to visit every continent by the time I’m 30, but I’ve been most excited about visiting Africa and helping to dispel some of the myths that the West perpetuates about what the continent and its various countries are like. 

I was told by a lot of people that South Africa would be a perfect first visit, because in a lot of ways its westernized and easy to navigate, affordable and beautiful. As soon as I landed I felt comfortable and the whole trip it almost didn’t feel like I was in a foreign country - this could have been because we started the trip staying with friends so we were able to hang out with locals or because the people I went with were so easygoing. But I had an amazing time and would encourage everyone to go ASAP. 

Where We Stayed:

In Johannesburg we were able to stay with my friend Akilah’s friend from when she studied abroad in South Africa in undergrad. This was a great first jumping off point and he was nice enough to drive us around for most of the trip so we saved a lot of money.

In Cape Town we stayed in a dope Airbnb a few blocks from Kloof street. I would highly recommend it because of the location and how beautiful designed the space is. 

It was $300 for the five days we were there, so it ended it being really affordable when we split the cost between four people. If you haven’t used Airbnb yet, you can get $40 off your first reservation using my referral code. 

Johannesburg Highlights

Neighbourgoods Market

The first stop off the plane for us was the Neighbourgoods Market on Saturday. It has lots of food vendors, clothing and craft makers and live music. It was packed and had a day party vibe.  The food and drink were so affordable with the rand to USD conversion!

Constitution Hill

Constitution Hill is a former prison and military fort that bears testament to South Africa’s turbulent past and, today, is home to the country’s Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all citizens. Nelson Mandela, Mahatma Gandhi, Winnie Madikizela-Mandela and other prominent political prisoners spent time here. 

The videos that told the story of Constitution Hill from past prisoners were powerful and also jarring as they go into explicit detail of the physical and sexual abuse that happened there. 

While we were at Constitution Hill we grabbed lunch at the Hill Cafe which is right onsite. We went in the early afternoon on a Monday so there weren’t any other people there so the bartender made us specialty cocktails. My friends got the lamb burger and said it was amazing. 

Apartheid Museum

After visiting Constitution Hill we went to the Apartheid Museum. You could easily spend a week here with the pure breadth of information they have. I’m happy we did Constitution Hill first because it gave a lot of context for the museum visit and our later Robben Island visit. 

The visit starts with you getting a card with your race where you go through two separate entrances and begin to get a sense of how big a role race played in South Africa. It also showed how fluid racial categories were as people began to be categorized for political reasons. 

I would HIGHLY recommend a visit to the Apartheid museum to get a historical view for apartheid from the lead up and foundation of how apartheid came to be through to the the truth and reconciliation work of Nelson Mandela. The most powerful part of the museum was the last video about the truth and reconciliation process and how painful and complicated that was, but how it also opened a space for the beginning of healing. 

It was a really heavy day with the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill so we had to break things up with a bit of fun...

The Turn Up: Cubana

We went out to Cubana on a Saturday night - I was a little bit skeptical because its a Cuban club but that night they played hip-hop and South African music. It’s one big lounge so there’s lots of tables and couches (bless up for all the girls wearing heels, this lounge has you in mind). We had such a good time (it definitely helped that the bottles were overflowing). The music and the people in our section were lit.

I won’t post pictures of our night to protect the innocent (and not so innocent).  

Honestly, truly the highlight of the night was, Andiccio, the pizza place we stopped at on the way home. The pizza was so delicious and it had a club atmosphere. Two minutes after we walked in a big group came in and turned the place out dancing. The music was almost louder and more amp than the lounge we came from.

Safari

We did a whole-day (which turned into a half day safari because the turn up got top real the night before) safari with Moreba tours. The tour was in Pilanesburg and we got to see a bunch of animals including giraffes, zebras and elephants. Our tour guide arrived promptly at our place and the tour guide was very knowledgeable. The tour is broken into two game drives. In between they take you to lunch at a hotel about 25 minutes away from Pilanesburg. There was a buffet with a complimentary welcome drink. 

The tour is 1350 rand per person (about $107) for a 9 hour tour with lunch included. I definitely think we got our money’s worth on this tour since they pick you up at your doorstep and drive 2.5 hours each ways, include lunch and two game drives. 

Cape Town Highlights

Robben Island

Buy your tickets in advance. Robben Island tickets sell out far in advance so be prepared. You take a 25-minute boat ride from the V&A Waterfront to Robben Island where you do a bus tour and then a short walking tour led by a former prisoner at Robben Island. It was so powerful to hear about life at Robben Island from someone who experienced it firsthand. This is definitely a must visit. 

(Nelson Mandela’s cell)

Lion’s Head and Table Mountain

We hiked Lion’s head so that we could go paragliding. That hike challenged every bit of my out of shape soul but the view was worth it. To make the situation worse the wind was too high when we tried to go so we had to be re-scheduled. Definitely plan paragliding early in your trip if you plan to go because winds can derail your plans. 

Table Mountain stole the show though - it’s as amazing as you would imagine. Best part - THEY HAVE MARGARITAS FOR MAD CHEAP! The top has a lot of places you can get 360 degree views, a restaurant and wifi lounge. 

Wine Tour:

We had a really great wine tour with Granwell aka “Big G” of Cape Trio tours. He was recommended in Nomadness Travel Tribe and he didn’t disappoint. He does custom tours so you can tell him what you want to do and see. It’s not limited to wine tours, so I would definitely recommend him if you have a creative tour you want to do. 

During our half-day wine tour we were able to visit Seven Sisters Winery - one of only two black owned wineries in Cape Town and Ernie Els Winery. They were very different but both great.

Seven Sisters had a family feel to it. The space had a wall of family photos and looked like a house in Martha’s Vineyard or Cape Cod. We had the place all to ourselves (they only take private reservations) and one of the owners led our tasting. It was amazing to hear how much the sisters had to overcome and still battle with being one of very few black owned wineries in the region. There are over 600+ wineries, yet only two black-owned wineries remain due to the high upfront cost and other challenges. I would HIGHLY recommend visiting the space. 

Ernie Els gave more of a country club feel. The views were breath-taking and they have a menu in case you want to eat while you’re there. The owner is a former professional golfer and you can see there’s a lot of money that went into the space. 

The Cape Town Turn Up (and VIP with Nelson Mandela’s Grandson)

We went to Jade nightclub and had a really good time. We got a VIP table and one of the girls in the group knew the owner so we had bottles and shots all night. The spot is 90% VIP section space which makes for an awkward strip of dance floor in between but they played great music (mostly mid-to-late 2000s hip hop which felt like a college throw-back...so of course we acted accordingly). 

While in the club we met Nelson Mandela’s grandson and hung out with him in VIP. He’s a bit obsessed with himself (he refers to himself as the Prince of Africa) but my celeb spotting while abroad game is still on point. He loved my friend’s husband Rion because he's from NY (people are OBSESSED with New Yorkers here) so he hung out with us for most of the night. 

For those who want to get photo shoot fresh. Visit Bo-Kaap. 

This is a rapidly gentrifying part of Cape Town that is full of colorful houses and a more multicultural community. This is a great place to try Cape Malay food (it’s similar to Indian food). We ate lunch at Biesmiellah Restaurant which had really good and super affordable food and is a block away from the colorful houses in Bo-Kaap . 

We initially tried (unsuccessfully because it was booked for a tour) to eat at Bo-Kaap Kombuis which has great views, so if you’re able to visit it has really good reviews.

For beach time go to Camp’s Bay

The houses in this areas are out of this world and the views are crazy. Swimming though? Not so much. The water is ice cold, so you go here to stunt more than anything.

Random note: if you’re on Long Street in Cape Town get some really cheap and amazing fish at Revelas fisheries across the street from Mama Africa. 

Final Pro Tip:

If you have a long layover in Johannesburg airport - get a two-hour pass for 290 rand ($22) to the Shongololo lounge. Free wifi, food and open bar. Best money spent. Especially because the food on Virgin Atlantic was tragic. 

Overall South Africa is within my Top 5 best trips ever. It’s definitely a country I would come back to. 

[jalisanwhitley]