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On Skincare, 2018 Edition

Hi hi, long time no Tumblr.

Just wanted to provide an update (more for myself, obvis) on my skincare regiment. It's undergone a lot of changes. My facial regiment, in particular, has been significantly pared down because I discovered that, despite trying to do my research and willingness to throw money at the problem (since when does THAT not work?!), I just wasn't getting the kind of results I wanted. And it was effecting the way I felt about myself. I've also modified the products I use on the rest of my body and feel pretty great about it.

Let's dig in.

FACE PRODUCTS Cleanser Okay, it's super simple. After seeing countless tweets from flawless black women on the benefits of using black soap as a facial cleanser, I finally decided to give up my drug store products addiction and comb the co-op shelves for a black soap that woudln't wreak havoc on the plumbing in my 19th century building (I can't use bar soaps because they clog the drains. I've gotten over it). So I use this Liquid Black Soap. I use it twice a day. It lathers like you wouldn't believe. Toner/Acne Treatment My primary issue is whiteheads. They're annoying, but oh so satisfying to pop, which, of course, leads to scars, which I hate. It's a Catch-22 to be sure. I've known for a long time about the benefits of tea tree oil for ace treatment, so I decided to try using a homemade formulation: 1 part tea tree oil to 96 parts water (approx 1/8 tsp tea tree oil to 2 T water). I put that on a cotton ball and apply that to only the problematic parts of my face, which, right now, consists of both cheeks, my forehead, my right eyebrow area, my right temple, around my mouth and my chin. It's a lot, maybe, but it's what's needed, so I do it twice a day. I let my face dry completely before the next step, my fave--you don't understand how excited I am to share this next part because it's so genius, easy and, thus far, producing amazing results... Moisturizer Three words: ORGANIC. SHEA. BUTTER. Seriously, that's it. After my face is completely dry, the tea tree oil absorbed and starting to do its work underneath the surface, I apply a bit of water to my face, then take a fingertip amount of organic shea butter, which is semi-solid at room temperature (I don't heat it up to liquid form because I don't want to lose any of its natural benefits!), and rub it all over my face. The water and warmth of my hands helps smooth it out, but it does take a bit of massaging, which I've really come to enjoy. Because of the water, my face feels a little bit tacky for a few minutes, but it ultimately settles and leaves me with a glow that even my mom notices more than 12 hours later. It's been the only moisturizer that, to my memory, feels like it's actually protecting my face from the dry air of northeast winters and, not only that, it's healing my facial scarring--something I've spent hundreds of dollars in serum produts trying to correct. Adios serums, hello new best friend, shea butter! One caveat, shea butter is pretty heavy, so I'm not sure if it'll feel as great in the summer, which tends to be pretty humid here (in NYC). I'm thinking that when the seasons change, I'll move to a lighter non-comedogenic oil (oh, did I mention that one of the reasons shea butter works so well is because it has a non-comedogenic ration of 0 to 1, as in, it doesn't clog pores?! I mean...!). Anyway, it's only been a week, I'm tickled pink for now and you can't tell me nothing.

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I read 22 books in 2017--that's an increase of 3 over 2016. Maybe this year, I'll read 25. It's good to have goals.

There Are More Beautiful Things Than Beyonce by Morgan Parker; James Baldwin the Last Interview and Other Conversations; The Story of a Brief Marriage by Anuk Arudpragasam; Kingdom Cons by Yuri Herrera; High Price by Dr. Carl Hart; We Gon' Be Alright by Jeff Chang; Men Explain Things To Me by Rebecca Solnit; Winnie Mandela A Life by Anne Marie du Preez Bezdrob; Citizen by Claudia Rankine; Private Citizens by Tony Tulathimutte; Forty Million Dollar Slaves by William Rhoden; Mating in Captivity by Esther Perel; Super Sad True Love Story by Gary Shteyngart; New People by Danzy Senna; The Changeling by Victor Lavalle; Everyone's An Aliebn When Ur A Aliebn Too by Jomny Son; On Racial Icons by Nicole R. Fleetwood; all about love by bell hooks; Blitzed by Nick Ohler; We Love You, Charlie Freeman by Kaitlyn Greenidge; Wrinkle In Time by Madeleine L'engle; The Mothers by Brett Bennet

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On Skincare Update #4

Well, it's been a while, hasn't it?

I'm back with an update on my skincare regiment, which, I'm happy to say, has become much more streamlined (less is, well, more).

IN THE AM

CLEANSER:

No change. I'm still using CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser ($14 at Duane Reade).

MOISTURIZER: CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion ($15 at Duane Reade).

plus

EYE CREAM CeraVe Skin Renewing Serum ($18 at Duane Reade). Still on the same tube, so, I'd say it's a pretty good value...

Aaaaaand, that's it. Mornings are so easy!

IN THE PM

Same as the above (minus the eye cream, but I should probs include that, too...), plus:

1x a week M-61 PowerGlow Peel ($62 for 30 treatements at Blue Mercury). I use this peel once a week on Sunday nights--it's both a weekly treat and a way to make these pricey pads last longer ($62 dollars every 30 weeks is way more sustainable than once a month, as suggested on the packaging).

1x a week Ren Wake Wonderful Night-Time Facial ($48 at Sephora).

3x a week Still using Aztec Secret (about $10 at Ricky's) to make a bentonite clay mask with apple cider vinegar. Tingles so good!

and when I remember...

SERUM Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Serum + Super Booster ($87 at Paula's Choice). I'm still deciding how I feel about this product combo, but it certainly feels good going on.

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On Skincare: Update #3

This update is long overdue, but better late than never, right?

CLEANSER:

No change. I'm still using CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser ($14 at Duane Reade) and really enjoying it.

ACNE TREATMENT/TONER:

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant ($29 at Paula's Choice). I know, that cam WAAAAY out of left field. But maybe not--I wrote previously about how helpful the Beautypedia page of the Paula's Choice website was to me in terms of researching skincare products and making the determination as to which product(s) might work best for me. I also read about the popularity of this particular product and, after feeling like I'd hit the limit of Clear Days Ahead's effectivness, decided to give it a try. It's done really fantastic things--zapping my blackheads and smoothing my complexion.

SERUM: First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydrating Serum ($36 at Sephora). Another addition to the skincare party. I'm not quite sure of what I think about it yet--currently, I use it in the morning only, underneath my moisturizer. Considering whether it should, instead, be the last step in my nighttime regiment, particularly where I use a mask, see below.

MOISTURIZER: CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion ($15 at Duane Reade). My go to. I just need to be more consistent about remembering to use it in the morning.

MASKS:

I currently have two go-tos.

M-61 PowerGlow Peel ($62 for 30 treatements at Blue Mercury). I use this peel once a week on Sunday nights--it's both a weekly treat and a way to make these pricey pads last longer ($62 dollars every 30 weeks is way more sustainable than once a month, as suggested on the packaging).

and

Ren Wake Wonderful Night-Time Facial ($48 at Sephora). I got a sample size of this the last time I purchsed M-61 Peels at Blue Mercury and really loved the way it made my skin look the next morning. I use this one 1x-2x a week.

Going forward, I'd like to try using the serum after these masks. Or maybe a moisturizer? I worry that I don't moisturize enough...

NIGHT TIME RETINOL

Finally, I've incorporated a retinol cream into my nighttime regiment: Philosophy Help Me ($49 at Sephora). I've really liked it so far. In particular, I had a crazy painful zit on my forehead on Friday--I appliced this stuff Friday night and the zit was gone Saturday morning. With no scarring (I should mention that I popped it, I know, I know, I'm not supposed to, but it legit HURT to have my skin stretching over that little pile of oil...I had to). Anyway, I have high hopes for this stuff.

CHEERS to beautiful, healthy skin in 2017!

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2016: A Year In Review

In 2016, I:

Got promoted at my job. Twice.

Ended a romantic relationship :(

Renewed my lease for 2 more years

Finished hanging all the art/posters I wanted to in my apartment.

Knit myself a cardigan. Twice.

Bought my first leather jacket.

Became a notary.

Went on a date with a guy I had a crush on in high school.

Got a new pair of glasses. Twice.

Continued to deepen my yoga practice.

Learned how to, and did, make beeswax candles.

Develeped a skincare regiment.

Spent a lot of solo time at the beach.

Did karaoke. Thrice.

Enjoyed great health.

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I was able to read 19 books this year! Whether it was because I was just way less stressed, or I made going to the bokstore a regular thing and reading more a priority, I'll take it. Some I loved (loved, LOVED!). Others...well, not so much. But either way, here is the list of books I read in 2016.

First Row:

Between the World and Me by Ta-Nehisi Coates

My Struggle: Book 1 by Karl Ove Knausgaard

A Brief History of Seven Killings by Marlon James

When Things Fall Apart by Pema Chodron

Your Face in Mine by Jess Row

Second Row:

Future Sex by Emily Witt

Jazz by Toni Morrison

The Dew Breaker by Edwidge Danticat

You Can't Touch My Hair by Phoebe Robinson

Third Row:

Signs Preceding the End of the World by Yuri Herrera

The Color of Water by James McBride

The Sellout by Paul Beatty

The Book of Night Women by Marlon James

Kill 'Em and Leave by James McBride

Fourth Row:

The Blue Book by A.L. Kennedy

An Elegy for Easterly by Pettina Gappah

Whatever Happened to Interracial Love? by Kathleen Collins

The Fishermen by Chigozie Obioma

Negroland by Margo Jefferson

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On Skincare, Update #2

And like clockwork, a month after my last update, here I am again to talk about my skincare regiment.

Cleanser: Still CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser ($14 at Duane Reade)

Acne Treatment/Moisturizer: Still Philoophy Clear Days Ahead Salicylic Acid Treatment and Moisturizer ($34 on Amazon)--if I'm being honest, I'm not 100% satisfied with it, but I'm committed to finishing the tube before I spend more money on something else, plus, it at least doesn't make my skin worse with regular nightly use of a clay mask (more details on that below).

Serum: CeraVe Skin Renewing Serum ($18 at Duane Reade)--It's incredibly pricey per ounce, but the last month of use has made barely a dent and I anticipate it lasting 6 months at least, so in terms of price per applications, it's pretty inexpensive.

Re: my recent dalliances with glycolic acid: After being pretty wowed by M-61 PowerGlow Peel, I sought out a less expensive alternative and found

Malin + Goetz Glycolic Acid Pads ($48 at Bloomingdales for 50 pads)

While they worked for a while, or, better yet, might work if used somewhat infrequently (i.e. 1x/month instaed of 2x/week or more), I tried them as a cureall after my acne flared up as a result of two days spent on the Delaware River and...well...a cureall they were not.

But something else has brought my face relief: bentonite clay. I've been mixing it with aple cider vinegar and leaving it on my face for about 20 minutes for the last two nights and all the advertised benefits of those pricey pads (smaller pores, smoother complexion, glowing skin) have been right there. I may not have been a believer before, but I believe in this stuff now. And lucky for me, because it's relatively inexpensive.

So, my skincare All-Star Product of 2016 (so far), is:

Get some.

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On Skincare, An Update

A few things have changed since my last "On Skincare" post, about a month ago.

FACIAL CLEANSER I still wash my face twice a day with CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser. No complaints here.

ACNE TREATMENT/MOISTURIZER I've replaced the Clinique All-Over Clearing Treatment with Philoophy Clear Days Ahead Salicylic Acid Treatment and Moisturizer ($34 on Amazon). It has a matte finish, which would matter to me if I wore makeup. It includes a moisturizer and because I'm prone to breakouts, I don't put any additional moisturizer on top. The downside is that it doesn't include sun protection. And I'm loving going to the beach. So I'm trying to just wear hats??? Anyway, I saw a difference pretty instantly, though I'm still trying to figure out the right quantity to use. Oh, and I apply it twice a day immediately after cleansing.

SERUM/EYE CREAM I did some more reading on eye creams and they seem to be bullshit--you can pretty much just apply any intense moisturizer delicately to your eye skin. So I'm using CeraVe Skin Renewing Serum ($18 at Duane Reade), applying it to my undereye, lid and the corner of my eyes twice a day. I can't say that it's making a ton of difference, but it's not hurting, and that's enough for me.

EXTRAS I still apply an Aztec Secret bentonite clay mask as many evenings a night as I remember/don't feel too tired for (an average of about 3). I leave it on for between 15 to 30 minutes, depending on how thick the mixture is and when it's fully dried. It feels like a treat and looking like Jim Carey in The Mask makes me feel glamorous. In addition, I discovered the M-61 PowerGlow Peel ($28 for 10 pads at Blue Mercury). I'm pretty skeptical whenever beauty counter people tell me something is amazing, but this stuff is A-MAZING! Fittingly, it's expensive AF. But it works. I used it two nights this weekend (alternating it with an Aztec Secret bentonite clay mask) and it slayed the patches of acne on my cheeks. I'm looking forward to continuing to use it and being flawless. I am not looking forward to the development of yet another expensive habit.

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The Week of Jun. 12-18, I . . .

Finished a book of short stories that I really enjoyed (An Elegy for Easterly by Petina Gappah)

Started reading Mumbo Jumbo by Ismael Reed

Ate really well, including a lot pasta bolognese and crab pasta a la vodka for lunch (it was yum)

Watched 1 and 3/4 games of the NBA finals

Split ways with my boyfriend of 2 years :(

Went to dinner with a French cousin I'd never met before

Received compliments from my boss on my work product and writing skills (hooray!)

Hid in plain sight next to someone I did not want to speak to (thank you, new glasses, for Clark Kent-ing me)

Was reminded that I have some really good friends

Realized that wanting to go to bed early is a symptom of discontent--if I'm "too tired" to do something, chances are that I just don't want to do it

Made plans to go to the New York Pet Expo!

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On Skincare

Since leaving my job and taking a significant paycut, I've been looking at ways to reduce my expenses. One way I've been particularly interestd in is reducing my personal care costs. I used to go to a dermatologist. And get expensive medications. And while they worked (kind of) I was never entirely convinced that prescriptions were the only option...

So I found Beautypedia, a website t hat offers expect and community reviews of a number of skincare products, as well as this list of skin care ingredients known to cause or inflame acne. And I put my investigation hat on.

Don't get me wrong, this phase of discovering what does/does not work for me involves a monetary investment, but with a bit of internet legwork done before hitting the drug store or Sephora, the hope is that I'll make smarter choices.

This is what I've learned so far.

FACIAL CLEANSERS

Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser ($12 at Duane Reade) is trash. And I'm not just saying that because my new favorite adjective right now is "trash" (yes, adjective--I call any and everything I don't like these days trash or garbage (i.e. "Lebron James was trash in Game 4 for stepping over Drayvon", "fat free yogurt is garbage")). Well + Good has a good (ha) take down. But to start, the third ingredient is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, an ingredient that scores a 5/5 for comedogenicity--that is, it's tendency to cause acne. For someone who is always playing whackamole with blackheads...well, that's just garbage.

CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser ($14 at Duane Reade) is for someone with oiler skin than me. It was just way too harsh and drying for my purposes.

CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser ($14 at Duane Reade): winner winner chicken dinner! This cleanser has been wonderful for me. I've been using it for about 3 weeks and I feel like I can see (and feel) a difference in my skin. And now that I've found a clenaser that seems to work (i.e. not heavily irritate or dry out my skin), I can move onto other things.

MOISTURIZERS

CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion ($15 at Duane Reade) works for me and I'm not fucking with it. It was recommended to me by my dermatologist, has a great Beautypedia review, and has no ingredient that scores higher than a 2/5 in comedogenicity or irritancy. Plus, it has suncreen.

ACNE TREATMENTS This is, perhaps, the toughest nut to crack and, because this spot was previously held by a $75 prescription medication that only lasted 60 days, the real impetus for this skincare journey. I need a product that destroys my acne patches, but doesn't irritate my sensitive, dry (apparently, thanks CeraVe for the reality check) skin. Oh, and it should also be reasonably priced.

I've been using Clinique All-Over Clearing Treatment ($22 at Sephora) twice a day for the past three days and while it's not yet doing the most, it is doing something. It has a moderate review on Beautypedia, but the ingredients score really low on the comedogenicity and irritancy scales--plus, the customer reviews were pretty glowing--so I figured I would give it a try. Nothing unequivocal yet, but I think we may have a bright future together.

EXTRAS

Because really, what more do I need than a cleanser, a topical acne treatment, and a moisturizer... Bitch please--I know you've read all those beauty/fashion blog articles about the 10-15 product skincare regimens of beautiful people; those morning routines which, despite involving countless cheek serums, lip masks and eye creams, only ever take 10 minutes... Well, while I can't be convinced to dedicate my next paycheck to the newest Korean skincare fads, I can try to have a little extracurricular skincare fun, no?

MASKS

Because putting cold stuff on your face and sitting around the house while it hardens seems fun, I've been using Aztec Secret (about $10 at Ricky's) to make a bentonite clay mask with apple cider vinegar. It's become my Friday night ritual. It tingles. And does'nt seem to be making my skin any worse, so...

EYE CREAMS

I'm turning 33 this year and though I still get carded, I'd like it to stay that way always and never have wrinkles ESPECIALLY AROUND MY EYES! I've seen recommendations for a few things (clinique superdefense eye cream in particular), and even tried making my own once, but, well, I have a hard time adding new products to my morning and evening regimen (I will never be a beautiful person...) and I really want to figure out the basics first before I move on to some intermediate level shit. This is to say that if you have any eye cream recommendations--things you love, things you hate--I wouldn't think you're trash for sharing them with me...

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High-speed Internet is a utility! Viva la net neutrality!

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I don't pay no attention to no kind of critics about nothing. If they knew as much as they claim to about what they're criticizing, they ought to be doing that instead of just standing on the side lines using their mouth.

Muhammad Ali, in an interview with Alex Haley (Playboy, October 1964)

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The Week of Feb. 14-20, I...

Went on my first site inspection for work.

Finalized plans to go to Montauk with friends in March.

Checked Facebook (groan) and realized that my contemporaries are having babies #2 while I have, well, a 6-year old cat that overbarbs and has a large white bald pot on her belly...

Contemplated that, as between getting a tattoo and having a baby, both of which are pretty permanent, it's a pretty even split as to which one I want right now.

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The week of Feb. 8-12, I

Prepared to get in Formation no fewer than 3 times a day.

GOT TICKETS TO SEE BEYONCE AT CITI FIELD!!!

Planned to go out for some Peruvian cuisine--lomo saltado and pisco are my jams.

Learned that Spike Lee made a documentary about Michael Jackson that I really REALLY need to watch... (c/o showtime)

Came to my absolute wit's end with reality television--I'm not even reading the recaps anymore!!!

Realized that i'm legit in love with monday night television. superstore, crazy ex-girlfriend and jane the virgin: you are my world now...

Went to housing court and all i got was a super dank chick'n shack.

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This Week I . . .

Read this article about how entrepreneurs are, contrary to popular wisdom, risk averse and the most successful among them hedge their bets and keep their day jobs while pursuing their dreams. So inspiring! (c/o Science of Us)

Was obsessed with the Unpublished Black History series on nytimes.com. They're doing some really fantastic stuff on their website these days and this is one of them. I hope they extend the series beyond the month of February. (c/o nytimes.com)

Remembered that an old roommate and I used to run a gallery out of our apartment. What gumption (and energy) we had then!

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The reason for offering this "alternative" is so glaringly obvious. And infuriating.

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In 2016, I will

Complete the #BustleReads Challenge

Watch less television

Read more books

Get new glasses

Buy fewer things, specifically clothing

Move into an apartment with my love

Live and create a loving, supportive, openly communicative, clean, welcoming, well-decorated home with my partner and entertain friends and family there often

Spend more quality time with Harriet playing and cuddling

Continue working on LRL Design Co., and other creative endeavors

Use up all the fabric and yarn I've acquired over the years

Take everything less seriously

Work hard and learn EVERYTHING at my job--there's no reason to aim lower just because I'm no longer in private practice

Be more present

Be more grateful

Express my gratitude more freely

Verbally express myself more often

Get back to journaling

Continue with my yoga practice, maybe run and swim, too

Make new friends, but take care of the old

Travel

Save money

Be open to life's challenges, and it getting even better than it already is at this moment

(previously: 2008, 2009, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015)