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A New Perception of Peru, The Inca Trail

Before the Trek:

Traveling through Lima was, in other words, fascinating. I can admit my knowledge of Peru, in general, was limited before beginning my travels there. I knew we were heading for a 5-day trek on the famous Inca Trail, but besides that, I entered the country completely blind. Although I only spent a day in the city, I was able to absorb more knowledge of the culture than I had previously known in my lifetime. The very first thing I noticed in Lima were the differences from the States. The weather in Lima was overcast, which I learned is typical. During the winter months of June to September, a consistent cloud cover envelops the sky. Throughout the day, we walked under the thick gray sky through the streets of Lima, learning about the culture and gastronomy. The streets were busy with activity, and instead of stereotypical pigeons, the streets of Lima were littered with vultures. We started our day at a local café where we enjoyed Peruvian coffee. The coffee was bitter yet light with a subtle citrusy note. We then sat in a generational, family-owned bar, Juanito Barranco, where we met the owner (the grandson of the founder). Juanito III mixed up a classic Peruvian cocktail, the Pisco Sour. The signature drink was tart and refreshing. After walking around the streets of Lima, we entered an art gallery of the famous mural artist Jade Rivera. Walking around and talking to some of the locals, I learned the significance of the hummingbird in Peruvian culture. The hummingbird represents deceased loved ones whose souls have returned to guide their families. I was informed that the Incas believed the hummingbird symbolized warriors and resilience. Later in the day, I observed the value of the coca leaf, which would come into use for me in the future. The coca leaf comes from the coca plant and is a traditional herbal remedy cherished for its medicinal properties. The indigenous Andean cultures chew or brew the coca leaves as a form of combating altitude sickness, fatigue, and hunger. During my short stay in Lima, I gained a better understanding of the history and culture of Peru. Although the city had an almost dystopian atmosphere and I wasn't particularly fond of its energy, I appreciated the knowledge and experience it gave me.

Traveling to Cusco was a simple flight through an unhinged airport. The airport was maybe the most chaotic place I had ever stepped foot in, but we eventually made it to Cusco. After arriving in Cusco, we spent a couple of days acclimating to the altitude before beginning our trek to Machu Picchu. In Cusco, we were able to learn more about the city's history and customs. Our first full day in Cusco was intriguing, to say the least. We drank immense amounts of coca tea and ate coca candies to combat the altitude change. Although I never seemed to feel any effects of altitude sickness or shortness of breath, I suppose the coca leaves do work. Throughout the main streets of Cusco, countless street vendors were selling various Peruvian trinkets and keepsakes. Although a tourist trap, we did indulge and purchase some of these knickknacks. Most shops sold the same types of things: llama or alpaca merchandise, blankets, shawls, and dolls. However, one of the stores (possibly the only one) appeared to be genuinely authentic. It was a small store tucked away in the corner of one of the less busy streets. Inside the store was a single man working. The store also served as his workshop, where he handcrafted every piece of leatherwork. He spoke no English, but he didn’t need to, as his passion was evident. We purchased a couple of items from his store, and although we visited many shops, this was the only one that stood out.

Our hotel in Cusco was built in the 1500s by Spanish settlers. It was almost castle-like, with large stone bricks and a vintage atmosphere. As someone who enjoys history, I loved Cusco. We visited two old churches, the first of which had original Incan foundations, with large stone windows and bricks. This temple was taken over by the Spanish when they invaded the Incan civilization. The Spanish churches were magnificent and filled with gold and rich artwork. In the first church, there were ancient altars dedicated to Inti, the sun god. These altars were positioned so that they would be illuminated by the sun during the Summer and Winter solstices. Though the majority of people in Peru practice Catholicism (due to Spanish influence), the Incan religion is still honored by many small villages hidden in the countryside and mountains.

The Trek:

Day 1: Starting the famous Inca Trail, I was eager to get going. However, the first day of the trip was honestly underwhelming. Day 1 started with an hour-and-a-half drive from Cusco to the Sacred Valley, where the trail officially begins. When we got to the starting point, we met our 9 porters, who would be carrying our food, water, clothes, tents, and all other necessities. We then waited in a long line with many other hikers to get our passports and papers checked before starting the hike. Day 1 of the trek was about 6 miles and undulating. The trail follows the Urubamba River for most of the distance, but towards the end of the first stretch, the trail veers into the mountains and a couple of villages. The trail on Day 1 was more crowded and busier than I had expected. It wasn’t necessarily unpleasant, but it was not comparable to any of the other days. We reached a small village in the late afternoon and enjoyed tea and coffee while the porters and cooks set up camp for the night. As the sun dipped lower behind the mountains of the valley, the temperature continued to drop. It became quite chilly, and the landscape entered an almost continental state of tranquility. We went to bed at around 7 p.m., as we had an early morning ahead of us.

Day 2: We were up at 5 a.m. to start what was said to be the most challenging day. We would be hiking up Dead Woman's Pass. The first hour of Day 2 was a challenging uphill trail, but then we reached the stone stairs. These large stone stairs extended for another couple of miles up the mountain, gradually becoming steeper and steeper. The hardest part of Day 2 was supposedly the rapid altitude increase; however, I did not feel much effect. We were told that the stone stairs were mostly from ancient Inca times, and they were the actual original stones placed by the Incas. We reached the beginning of Dead Woman's Pass, where the final “market” was. At the start of the pass stood two women with carts filled with snacks and drinks. The women make the 2-mile, straight-uphill climb to the starting point every day. It was almost unbelievable how they could carry such heavy loads up the harsh terrain daily. We then started the journey up the pass. I was able to make it to the top in around 45 minutes. Although it was challenging, the views were breathtaking. Even from halfway up the open pass, you could see the village where we had come from. It was shocking to see how far we had come. At this point in the hike, I was starting to feel the effects of the thinning air, but I pushed through and made it to the top. I was the first in my group to reach the summit, so I enjoyed the crisp wind and views from both sides of the pass. The first 5 and a half miles of the hike were purely uphill. However, once you reached the summit, the next 2 miles were a steep downhill on the same ancient stone stairs. I found the downhill to be the most challenging part of the day. The stone stairs were placed in an unstructured way, and you had to consider each step carefully. We finally made it to our base camp around noon. By that point, my legs were possibly the most shaken they had ever been. We had been lucky enough so far to have perfect weather conditions, but that all changed when night fell.

Day 3: Throughout the night, the bitter rain kept falling steadily. Thunder was a constant presence, while lightning illuminated the tent. We awoke to a gentle drizzle, unlike the downpour the night before. However, it was still freezing, and we could tell it would be a formidable morning. We quickly ate breakfast with some hot tea and coffee, then departed the camp. Day 3 felt like a completely different world. Although the conditions were at times a little unpleasant, Day 3 was undoubtedly my favorite. We started the day trekking up another pass, this one significantly smaller. We didn’t see another soul on the trail. We were able to explore Incan outposts and villages without company. It was magical, and I almost couldn't believe it was real. The trail was still covered in ancient Incan stones. The cloudy mist transformed the trail into a jungle expedition. I was in a state of pure awe all day. We entered another Incan ruin, and once again, there was not a single other person with us. Stepping into the ruins in complete silence was phenomenal. I felt like I was stepping through a time portal—thinking that people had stood where I was standing hundreds of years ago was surreal. This ancient civilization was right under my feet. We made it to camp in the afternoon. The camp was located at the highest point of the Inca Trail. Although it was under a thick cloud cover, the air was clear, and you could feel how above the world you were. The camp was filled with grazing llamas. They grazed along the steep mountain slopes and off into the clouds. The mist finally cleared, and it was breathtaking. It felt as if we were on top of the world. You could see a stunning view of the Andes jungle from every angle. We ate dinner watching the sunset under the vast mountainscape.

Day 4: Waking up at the mountaintop camp felt like being on top of the world. You could see miles and miles around you. It was freezing and dark when we first got up at around 5:30 a.m. However, as the sun rose, the mountains were lit up, and the mist unveiled endless peaks of dense green forest. We left the camp right after the sun rose. The entire trail of Day 4 consisted of 8 miles downhill, following the ancient Incan stone route. We walked through a dense forest and were able to explore many different ruin sites without another person in sight. After a couple of hours, we reached the Incan Sun Gate, the ancient entrance to Machu Picchu. Reaching the Sun Gate, we were able to see our first glimpse of Machu Picchu. Before reaching the historic site, I didn’t grasp the true magnitude of the city. I thought the ruins we had explored previously along the trail were of similar size, but they didn’t compare at all. Machu Picchu was an extensive metropolis for the Incan civilization. We were incredibly lucky to have such a clear day. I had heard that it is very possible for the mist to completely engulf the view of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate. After trekking for 4 days, seeing the masses herded into the ancient streets was a reality check. Every turn was crowded and full of people. We were not fully able to explore the city the day we got there, but we were lucky enough to get to stay at a small hotel located right in the nook of the ancient city.

Day 5: Waking up in the famous hotel beside Machu Picchu was surreal. It allowed us to skip the buses and get an early start into the preserved city. Walking around the ruins was incredible. Although it truly cannot compare to walking around the smaller villages along the Inca Trail. Those smaller villages we were able to explore were less preserved, but in a way, they felt more real. We were able to explore them without any other humans around us, whereas, in Machu Picchu, we were constantly surrounded by noise and seas of people. The ruins were very fascinating, though. There was so much history attached to each building, and there was undoubtedly endless knowledge to absorb. After exploring the ruins, we hiked up the well-known mountain behind the ruins, Huayna Picchu. It is a relatively short hike to the top, but it is incredibly crowded, and the trail is completely straight up. Hiking Huayna Picchu was possibly the hardest part of the trip. The path is very narrow and doesn’t allow for much two-way traffic. The steps are steep and large, and it is nonstop uphill the whole way. However, the view from the top was incomparable. You could see the entire city of Machu Picchu in one view, and it felt as if you were standing on top of the world. In addition to the view of Machu Picchu, you could also see the landscape of every surrounding mountain for hundreds of miles. The tough journey up was worth it.

Collectively, this trip was not only beautiful and memorable but also equally educational and enlightening. I wouldn’t change any part of the trip. Even though some parts were more enjoyable than others, I think the journey wouldn’t have been complete without each moment. Seeing Machu Picchu and the transcendent beauty of the Andes was, without a doubt, life-changing. Although I went on this trip young, I can guarantee I will never forget this experience. Traveling to Peru was the most extraordinary experience I have had so far. I will always cherish the knowledge and beauty this experience has provided me.