planet-hannah

[planet-hannah]

DÉGAGÉ

Dégagé is French for disengage. In ballet Dégagé is a movement where the working leg "disengages" from the supporting leg in a brush off the floor.

Ballerina off duty. Early when ballet was first created ballerinas did sex work to support themselves because the theatre didn’t and doesn’t pay well.

Call me Venus

Aphrodite queen of empathy

Pearls make almost everything pleasurable

I shot this myself on a digital camera

Top,shorts, legwarmer, arm warmer, crocheted ribbon garter made by me

Boots and coat and bags were the model’s

Pointe shoes are mine from Bloch

Pearls from consignment shop

05/05/2024

[planet-hannah]

Some headless sketches. Not my best but most of these sketches became creations

[planet-hannah]

These are cads I did using Adobe Illustrator. This was my first time using illustrator. I started with the t-shirt then the skirts. As my knowledge advanced I got more comfortable and adding more details to my dress, jacket and purse cads. I do prefer sketching but find the digital better understood for manufacturers.

[planet-hannah]

DÉGAGÉ

Dégagé is French for disengage. In ballet Dégagé is a movement where the working leg "disengages" from the supporting leg in a brush off the floor.

Ballerina off duty. Early when ballet was first created ballerinas did sex work to support themselves because the theatre didn’t and doesn’t pay well.

Call me Venus

Aphrodite queen of empathy

Pearls make almost everything pleasurable

I shot this myself on a digital camera

Top,shorts, legwarmer, arm warmer, crocheted ribbon garter made by me

Boots and coat and bags were the model’s

Pointe shoes are mine from Bloch

Pearls from consignment shop

05/05/2024

[planet-hannah]

I wish a pop girly would wear this to the met gala

Versace Spring rtw 1995

Or this on a boring male or they… one that is already going to wear a traditional suit

Alexander McQueen Fall rtw 1998

[planet-hannah]

Sketch l did in 20 minutes before bed

I Think I’ll build on this design wise

For now it's name is FULL

I’m “full” of creative energy that I can’t express correctly because of my focus on surviving

It’s a new beginning for me artistically

[planet-hannah]

Zendaya wearing JPG spring couture 2020 at an Essence Event . In 2022 I forecasted this silvery adorned look for 2030 nostalgia. She’s setting the trend now and the masses will follow soon. Bravo LAW!!

[planet-hannah]

I hate to do this but TRASHCORE

Charlie XCX is ahead of the curve with her new album cover.

This low quality neon photo is just the main media beginning of an aesthetic that has been around for awhile. Tumblr accounts like @xvisualtreasure09x highlights these trash images. Trash aesthetic and indie sleaze are related. Both don’t care about looking visually appealing which is funny because I’m using the word aesthetic a lot. TRASHCORE is chaos similar to indie sleaze but it’s also raw. Some images associated with TRASHCORE are digital camera images and some are edits that have low quality. Junky melancholy images that give you a strange while playful vibe without words.

TRASHCORE always been and will always be. It’s a collection of NOT aesthetically pleasing images, fashion and music. It’s a push back to being perfect which nothing is especially when you try.

These images are examples of how I think “it girls” will dress soon. Maybe in a year or two the girlies will look like some version of this. It’s playful with glam. It’s boyish and girlie. New silhouettes that are flattering on all genders.

Men will use more feminine clothing and layers. I do think all of these concepts will be enhanced and dramatic. The use of TRASHCORE in fashion will have no rules but once you see it you’ll know what it is.

02/29/2024 8:27pm

Observing some aspects of TRASHCORE on the runway recently.

03/02/2024 10:03pm

[planet-hannah]

Escape from mundane and averageness

Punk Rock and it’s origin story

Punk Rock was and is a response to the establishment. Punk rock affected music, fashion, and self-expression. Being offensive was the punk rockers main objective. This subculture was born in the U.K. Soon, people saw a rise in the U.S. Shocking the system and culture with makeup, clothing, beliefs, and music. Punk Rock was anti-Summer of Love. The psychedelic side of the 70s did not present well to these kids who were handed a chaotic world.

Britain was not in a good place at the start of Punk Rock. The fact that it was a scary, unsafe place fueled the subculture's inspiration. Social unrest because of strikes. Strikes affected everything such as garbage being left on the streets—inflation but also high unemployment. Overall living in Britain was gloomy, scary, and not harmonious. There were also power outs which would last for days. The youth was fed up and wanted to express that. 3-day workdays during a time like this were very hard to live with. Your boss didn't have enough to pay you so hours are cut and it's already a recession, I would freak out too.

Punk began on Kings Road around shops like “Sex”. Kings Road is where the Punk kids would congregate. This reminds me of fashion kids today who flock to Washington Square Park in search of the next micro trend. “It brought all these kids from all over the place– mainly the suburbs.”, Jordon Arena: Punk& the Pistols’(1995)

Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren opened Seditionaries Shops. McLaren launched the music side of punk: “Sex Pistols” and Westwood focused on “Sex”. The Sex Pistols would wear clothing from the boutique. The boutique sold leather and rubber fetish goods. The Buzzcocks, Siouxsie, the Banshees, and the Sex Pistols were at the forefront of showcasing Punk Rock music and fashion. Their fans would try to emulate them with the band's emulating trends from the street and other inspirations.

Punk in New York was established by bands like Lou Reed, the Ramones, Suicide, and the New York Dolls. Rock and Roll was being oversaturated and these artists wanted to redefine the scene. “They’d go to the thrift shops, where you could find vintage clothes”. Paul Zone. The DIY aspect was also in New York City. The Ramones created a uniform by shredding Levi's and wearing leather jackets. They didn't have money so the holes in their clothing were from wear and tear. At the time it was shameful to walk around with holes in your clothing but the Ramones didn’t care. Their attitude helped shape the subculture.

Malcolm McLaren managed the New York Dolls. He went back to the shop “Sex” and collaborated with his partner Vivienne Westwood to create a look for the Band the Sex Pistols. He put a British spin on the look and used the band to promote it.

“Part of it is to be threatening to look; part of it is to be confrontational”, Siouxsie Sioux in Arena: Punk& the Pistols (1995) To dress Punk meant you had to listen to punk rock. Many different aspects went into achieving the look. First is the DIY aspect. Anything could be made or redone with a pair of scissors. Distressing t-shirts, jeans, and jackets but basically anything is the first step. Almost personalizing your outfit with stenciled-on words or safety pins can add to the look. Studs, chains, and other metal hardware add to the punk rock look. The Punk could dress androgynous or gender-specific but some would argue that “shocking” is the key to the style. Tights that are ripped or fishnet are acceptable. Tartan and other plaids were used in different ways. Punk’s silhouette got narrower and sexier. Sex is a huge topic during the Punk Rock era because it was taboo. Taboo topics were not off limits during this era as you can clearly see through Vivienne Westwood’s seemingly Sex shop.

Make-up was exaggerated and bold. Bold eyeliner that was drawn over your whole eye and dark lines on your face was a must. Geometric shapes drawn on with eyeliner and then filled with eyeshadow were also very popular. Lips were like vampires' lips to accentuate the face. Dark reds and sometimes black were popular colors to use.

Body Piercings were commonly done on the earlobes. Studs and safety pins were pierced through the eyebrows, cheeks, noses, and lips. This was quite shocking at the time. Body piercings were intended to offend the masses. Men also participated in piercing their bodies. Punk was and remains unisex.

Bondage in the early punk movement inspired black leather, studs, chains, and rubber that you saw throughout the era. Vivienne Westwood’s shop “Sex” was the spot to get inspired and see the beginning of it. Straight Jackets were also huge during the beginning. It played fun at the public perceptions of Punks.

Hair was also a big tell-tell to see if you were a true punk rocker. The most famous hair look is Punk Spikes. These are still worn today. The Punk would take a gel or PVA glue and slick their hair into spikes or a mohawk. Mohawk is a Mohican Indian reference that the kids gained inspiration from also. They would also dye their hair unconventional colors like blue, or red with food coloring. Some would dye it black or bleach blonde but the girls seemed to have boy cuts to fit into the androgynous style. Kids would also shave the sides of their heads to have a colorful mohawk. Hair played into this style a lot. Identity was something to be played with while being a Punk.

“Subversion lies in unpopular ideas” ‘Arena: Punk& the Pistols’(1995) Vivienne Westwood is a visionary. She was the first to do many things that were frowned upon and criticized mercilessly. She is the mother of Punk Rock. Her work influenced fashion for the better. At the beginning of her career, she helped integrate Punk Rock fashion into the mainstream and popularized it. Her way of distressing shirts and adding studs caught on with the kids and gave them somewhere to shop and draw inspiration from.

Vivienne Westwood had a muse named Jordon during the punk rock era. Jordon had an androgynous look that was popular during the late 70s and throughout the 80s. She traveled each day an hour from the city to hang out and be seen. I have a friend who does this but she’s an influencer which Jordon was technically speaking in modern terms. The girls wanted to look like her and Vivienne Westwood wanted to see her clothes and style. “In the end, it has an effect because it was original.” ‘Arena: Punk& the Pistols’(1995) Vivienne Westwood turned her store into Seditionaries. Then into her own brand. She continues to use aspects of Punk rock in her collections because she has to show appreciation for her past and beginning. Also when you think punk rock in terms of fashion you think of Vivienne Westwood.

Punk Rock ended and a new subculture developed from that one. The romanticism that Vivienne Westwood helps emulate with her pirate-themed wear and makeup. The subculture was not big enough to overtake disco in the U.S. and the U.K. was no longer going through social unrest. The energy was moved to the next thing.

Brands continue to use aspects of Punk Rock in their collections such as Alexander McQueen, R13, Doc Martens, and Underground. Alexander McQueen SS98 to the present day has been incorporating punk rock fashion in his shows. The brand continues to use aspects like studs in its clothing and accessories. In their Pre SS21 collection Creative Director Sarah Burton uses a 1950s style pin heel and puts silver spiked studs on the toe. The shoe is made “modern” with the studs while still having that vintage aspect.

Works citied

https://journals.openedition.org/rfcb/1662

https://www.theglassmagazine.com/alexander-mcqueen-presents-the-punk-pumps/#:~:text=FROM%20the%20SS98%20collection%20to,to%20keep%20the%20spirit%20alive

https://pitchfork.com/features/from-our-partners/9943-rip-it-to-shreds-a-history-of-punk-and-style/

https://fashion-era.com/1970s/punk-fashion-history/

https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/a-brief-history-of-punk-fashion-79145

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Vivienne-Westwood

https://www.90sfashion.com/punk-clothing-brands/

[planet-hannah]

The New Style Epicenter

Atlanta is nicknamed black Hollywood. Actresses, singers, rappers, and many more creatives reside there. A melting pot of black creatives is only gonna produce and introduce content that is loved or will be loved by the masses.

Artists like “Lil Baby” and “Andre 3000” have created a certain style and look to go along with their music. Both rappers have changed the fashion industry in different ways by using their street style to express their music. Andre 3000 of “Outkast” has changed street style in a high-fashion way. Recently he was working with the famous street style brand “Supreme”. His fans are crazy for his street style so much so that they actually removed the wheat paste advertisement off the NYC street and sold it on eBay for thousands of dollars. He has inspired fashion in different cities all around the world while also staying true to his roots.

Atlanta has fresh talent that is inspiring the streets too. GQ did an editorial that helped my research. Alexis Ayaana is an muscian/influencer. She is active on Instagram and continues to turn out looks. She is ahead of the trend according to my research. In the black community, she is considered an it-girl to watch and gather inspiration from. Atlanta is the place where individuals can have a vision and the freedom to execute it.

Works Cited

https://www.gq.com/story/48-hours-in-atlanta

https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2020/09/9953820/covid-street-style-fashion-looks

[planet-hannah]

Ann Lowe exhibit at Winterthur.

Ann Lowe an American couturier. Her designs worn by debutantes and americas elite. Jackie Kennedy wore her creation on her wedding day. Truly a treasure to she her work persevered and cared for. Embellishments were her thing. I love how camp and her designs were. These dresses told a story like no others at the time. The pleats in the blue purple dress were so interesting to see. It’s so ahead of it’s time and I love the thick lace. A beautiful dress that I’ve dreamed about ever since I saw it. Learning more about Ann Lowe’s work and life has inspired me to take a closer look at the structure of garments.

[planet-hannah]

I think this resurgence of punk is a reflection on what’s happening in the world. Politically we are angry with our government. Socially we just want to stand out. Grabbing whatever is in our closet and throwing it together is the ultimate goal. Having a diy and sustainable attitude to how we dress proves we are conscious and are individualistic. The youth has captured this messy look by regressing to what our inner child wants. Colorful, bright and what our idea of glamour truly is. That’s the key to this look.

[planet-hannah]

Clashing patterns and colors

I wore a Jimi Hendrix black graphic tee with a cargo green skirt. A mini skirt in windy 50 degree weather is always a good idea if you wear tights. Only tights I own are fishnets so I pulled the tights through the skirt and overlaid the skirt to include more pattern. My buffalo print wool jacket is perfect for this weather because it keeps me warm without being bulky and it adds a indie sleaze affect to my outfit. Accessorized with a fuzzy multicolored scarf to add more color on a gloomy day. Purple suede bag and tan suede boots are my staples this winter.

[planet-hannah]

Behind the scenes with iseder

My reflection on the looks and the trends spotted.

I had the honor of getting a inside look of the effort and work that goes into a fashion show during NYFW. iseder is a luxury avant-garde brand founded by Taylor and Sean. The duo’s brand started in 2021 during the pandemic and from that hardship came a vision that can be shared with creatives everywhere. This was their second show which took place in Marsha P. Johnson State Park on September 12th. The beautiful background of the city only highlighted the collections use of muted colors and textured fabrics.

My day began early at 9 getting ready and waiting on a friend (all love she’s just known to run late). When I got to the venue which was around 1 pm I glanced at a white tent with about 15 models and more trickling in for the next hour. As I watched in awe at everyone doing their jobs I saw Taylor and Sean running around working out every detail only stopping to exchange looks of excitement or nervousness. In between doing hair and makeup models and staff lounged on picnic tables for cigarettes and gossip. Mostly complaining about the heat which was brutal but the tent blocked the bright sun and had a fan so everyone wouldn’t melt. Around 3 after staff set up about 200 chairs all in a single file along the runway, the live band began to rehearse. The music lit up the neighborhood which drew spectators to their luxury balconies to gawk at the glitz and glam. One spectator even brought out binoculars. As rehearsals drew to a close around 5ish anticipation for the show to commence grew and people began to run around working out final touches. Everyone had a digital or film camera in hand snapping candids and having mini photoshoots.

The collection is the reimagining of indie sleaze for our generation. The use of plaid and fur brought a sense of nostalgia that reminded me of when I was little flipping though magazines and seeing fur-lined vest and colorful opaque tights. What appeared after the recession was a whimsical and sexy style that emerged to recapture youth lost. The models told a story with their middle American looks of hardship and distraught glares. The mood of the collection seemed like a reflection of what the youth is feeling while headed straight into a recession. The resurgence of indie sleaze is no coincidence because fashion is a cycle.

The use of Stars in the accessories alludes to the meaning of having dreams not yet reached. It’s the only thing making it possible to hold on to the life we have; the possibility that we can live the life we desire and ultimately deserve while working our low paying bullshit jobs.

Minutes before the show I snapped this pic. Our generation loves expressing themselves with makeup the more the better. We put jewels and stickers and temporary tattoos all over our faces and bodies to express to the the world our mood of the day. (This look is one of my favorites) It’s a sports mesh skirt with a husband* beater top with leather star appliqué. The models makeup was done to match the red stars. Her arm bangles are the brands signature wolf logo. I could easily see this on the streets of Brooklyn. It’s a new way of wearing staples which I love because a little originality never hurt anyone. Sports mesh trending for next season?!

Overall the collection was a love letter to all the dreamers of America. The message was clear. There is still beauty in this crumbling society and your dreams can always come true. Indie sleaze is a theme that reminds us grunge can be dreamy, sexy, and fun. The grunge of society can be beautiful too. Colors of navy, yellow and beige can bring a certain brightness to the mundane that many often ignore. The pop of pink was a nod to bright future that waits us. I’m honored that I could have witnessed the whole day in all its chaotic glory.

[planet-hannah]

Work in progress

This is a test shoot I did with my friend. I styled and photographed her in our apartment. She has pretty curls so I fluffed those out to give a 90s inspired grunge look. Also red lips to pull in the red of the tank and in the track pants.

Shot on IPhone XR

[planet-hannah]

Another dance moodboard. I love clothing that has movement and flows.

[planet-hannah]

Moodboard/Mini Trend Report on the comeback of Indie Sleaze