sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

13: HUSTLIN’ AND BUSTLIN’ IN TOKYO

DAY 1

We grabbed a quick lunch at the train station before boarding our train, and in the blink of an eye, we stepped out into the colorful, frenetic streets of Tokyo.

First, we needed to navigate Tokyo’s visually jarring subway system to find our hostel. The subway map itself (worth a google) looks like a spiderweb, each colored subway line weaving through the others until you can barely make out where one begins and another ends. However, once you get past the initial confusion, it is obvious how efficiently designed the whole system is. We quickly found our hostel tucked away in a quiet side street, dropped off our bags, and headed back out into the madness.

We made our way to Shibuya Crossing.

THE SCRAMBLE AT SHIBUYA CROSSING:

Said to be the busiest crosswalk in the world, Shibuya Crossing is the intersection of 7 major crossroads. Every two minutes, hundreds (or thousands, depending on the time of day) of people frantically cross the street in all directions in what is known as “The Scramble.” It is quite an impressive sight from a window of any one of the towering buildings surrounding the crossing and an even more impressive experience from the ground.

Mesmerized, Ryan and I watched the crossing several times from the window of Shibuya train station before wandering down to join the crowds cross the street. It was the epitome of organized chaos.

For dinner, Ryan and I stumbled upon, believe it or not, Taco Bell. We had heard about the supposed Japan-only menu and fancy decor, and we couldn’t resist checking it out. I must say that it lived up to the hype. The store itself was sleek and modern, and the menu featured several (surprisingly delicious) specialty items.

DAY 2

The next day started with a trip to Akihabara or “Electric Town,” a neighborhood famed for its many electronics shops. Ryan and I checked out Yodobashi Camera, one of the area’s electronic megastores. We wandered through the complex’s NINE floors, each featuring a vast array of products from cameras to washing machines to rice cookers to gaming consoles. In recent years, Akihabara has also become known as the center of Otaku culture.

OTAKU: AN EXPLANATION

In Japan, otaku refers to young people with obsessive pop culture interests, particularly anime, manga, and gaming. To put it simply, they are very, very dedicated fans.

Because of the otaku influence, Akihabara is dotted with massive game centers, maid cafes, collectible shops, comic book shops, and game/anime/manga-themed cafes. Costumes, cartoons, and massive, colorful signage don every inch of the area. It is pop-culture Japan at its finest.

After lunch, we headed to the Tokyo National Museum for a completely different vantage point of Japanese culture. On the way, we walked through Uneo Park where we were able to witness the beautiful, modern celebration of hanami.

HANAMI? YOU BARELY EVEN KNOW ME.

Okay. Enough of that.

I mentioned Hanami in my previous post about Kyoto. Basically, it is the traditional Japanese custom of enjoying the fleeting beauty of the cherry blossoms. The custom was established in the late 700s and has continued since that time. Often, people celebrate this custom by eating a picnic lunch under the trees.

Ryan and I were lucky enough to witness this celebration first hand. It was absolutely incredible. Hundreds of people were sitting on tarps or blankets under the pink blossoms. Many groups used upside down cardboard boxes as a table to spread their lunch out on. I was amazed and so touched by the communal atmosphere. It was truly a sight to see.

After walking through the park, we arrived at the Tokyo National Museum, which is actually multiple museum buildings spread out across beautiful grounds. The museum features an unbelievable amount of Asian art, historical artifacts, and archeological items. The collection was extremely thorough and very impressive. Each building offered a unique perspective on Asian culture and history. I especially enjoyed the cherry blossom exhibit, which featured art, poetry, and cultural artifacts all celebrating the sakura trees.  

For dinner, we went to the famed T’s Tantan, a vegan ramen shop in the bottom of Tokyo Station. When we arrived, there was already a line out the door waiting to be seated. We joined the line, and soon we were ushered inside. One thing is for certain, it was well worth the wait. My meal consisted of crispy gyozas and a creamy, peanutty broth with ramen noodles and fresh greens. We were in heaven.

To cap off an incredible day, we decided to participate in a slightly-more-modern-but-equally-as-important Japanese custom: karaoke.

KARAOKE? SERIOUSLY?

Yes, karaoke. Yes, seriously. Now, you have to understand, Japanese people do not participate in the flippant American-style karaoke at a random bar. No. They have massive, multi-story buildings with hundreds of rooms dedicated to the art of karaoke. These rooms vary in size but always contain a TV, multiple microphones, additional percussion instruments (think maracas and tambourines), colorful lights, and a complete sound system.

Unsure of what to expect, Ryan and I rented a karaoke room for an hour. We rode the elevator up several floors and found our room. It was small with couches lining 3 walls, a large TV with a  sound system, and a coffee table in center. On the table, there were two microphones and a remote/keypad for the TV. We punched in a song and grabbed our microphones. As the music began, the overhead lights dimmed and a colorful disco ball on the ceiling lit up. We were in full-on karaoke mode. It was a blast. We sang song after song, dancing and laughing. When our hour was over, we extended our rental for another hour.

Japan got a lot of things right, and I can definitively say that karaoke is one of them.

DAY 3

Our third day in Tokyo began in the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, a gorgeous botanical garden with incredible character. It is comprised of three different sections: a Japanese garden (complete with a traditional tea house), a French rose garden, and an English landscape garden. Because of the cherry trees, we chose to spend most of our time in the Japanese garden. We chose right.

The garden was a beautiful flurry of color and people. It boasted two rippling ponds, a simple, arching bridge, a gorgeous tea house overlooking the garden, and, of course, an abundance of cherry blossoms. We walked through the garden, watching the pink and white petals fall from the trees like snow.

After getting our fill of garden time, we walked to the nearby Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. The building is 48 floors tall with an incredible (and free) 360 degree observation deck at the top. The view was breathtaking: row upon row of tall buildings interrupted only by patches of green space. From this perspective, it was clear that Tokyo is one of the world’s largest cities.

After a quick lunch, we made our way through the lush Yoyogi Park to the Meji Shrine, a famed Shinto shrine in the middle of the park. The shrine is announced by a massive torii gate and surrounded by a forest of tall trees. Keeping in traditional shinto design, the Meji Shrine features simple buildings and a serene atmosphere. The paths leading in and out of the shrine complex are lined with cedar trees.

The moment of nature and relative quiet quickly disappeared as we emerged from the park into the bustling Harajuku neighborhood. Harajuku is famous for its eclectic art and fashion scene. We began our exploration at the the heart of Harajuku: Takeshita Dori, aka Takeshita Street. This narrow pedestrian shopping street is lined with tiny snack shops selling treats like Japanese-style crepes and bubble tea, boutiques selling otherworldly clothes and accessories, and basement level Purikura booths.

PURIKURA: A TEENAGE CRAZE

Purikura is a small photo booth machine that creates photo stickers rather than regular photographs. After taking a photo, the user can edit the photo and add designs, cartoons, or other effects. Purikura is extremely popular with Japanese teenagers.

Takeshita Dori has become world famous for its popularization of very specific fashion trends, such as kawaii culture, which focuses on creating a childlike, cute, and shy persona. It was an unique look into the world of Japanese street fashion. For the rest of the afternoon, Ryan and I wandered down the streets of Harajuku, exploring whatever shops caught our fancy.

For dinner, we rode the subway to a Hawaiian-Japanese fusion vegetarian restaurant called Olu’Olu Cafe. The cafe was cozy and the food was absolutely incredible.

DAY 4

Our fourth day was completely dedicated to one thing: the Tokyo Giants.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BASEBALL IN JAPAN:

In the early 1870s, an American expat named Horace Wilson introduced a game involving a bat, ball, and bases to his students at (what would become) Tokyo University. In 1878, the first official team was organized, and by the turn of the century, university and amatuer leagues were cropping up all over the country. At this point, American teams began travelling across the Pacific to play ball against the Japanese teams. In 1936, the Japan Professional Baseball League was formed and, as they say, the rest is history.

After a lazy morning, we arrived early to the Tokyo Dome for our midday game. The massive, air-supported dome is a pretty spectacular visual in itself. It sits in the middle of Tokyo Dome City, a large area that also features an amusement park, shopping center, a variety of restaurants, and a hotel. We walked around the dome area and had lunch at one the restaurants.

As game time approached, we entered the stadium in search of the perfect spot to stand. That’s right, stand. Because the game was totally sold out, there were only standing room tickets available.

ASIDE:

Though it was admittedly a long time to stand, it gave us the perfect opportunity to both watch the game and explore the stadium. Also, the tickets are only 1000 yen (aka 8 dollars), which allows people of all socioeconomic status to attend a game. Pretty amazing if you ask me.  

Now, you have to understand that Japanese fans are REALLY dedicated. People who have season tickets in the standing zones arrive to the stadium hours early to tape newspaper or tarps on the floor to mark their spot. They have personalized chants for every member of the team, and the cheering never stops. The whole stadium was filled incredible energy and excitement. Oh, and fans can bring in whatever food or drink they want, so no one had to pay 18 dollars for a hotdog. Imagine that.

DAY 5

Our last day in Tokyo was spent at Odaiba, a man made island in Tokyo Bay. Originally the island was built as a kind of fort to protect the city against seabourne attacks. Now, it serves as a shopping and entertainment district. We took the train across the bridge to the island to explore. We walked around the impeccably-designed malls, sauntered along the rocky beachfront, and admired the small-scale replica of the Statue of Liberty. Yes, you read right. We were confused too, and frankly, there isn’t really an explanation.

Our favorite thing, though, was the Toyota Megaweb Complex. We began by exploring the History Garage, an aptly decorated museum showcasing classic cars from all over the world produced during the 1950s to 1970s. It was fascinating to see the evolution of automobile design throughout the decades.

Next, we ventured to the “Line-Up Zone,” which was basically a huge showroom featuring the current Toyota vehicles on the market (including their awesome handicap accessible models). We were able to look inside and sit in each car.  We also attended a 4-D film (think fake wind and hydraulic chairs) shot from the perspective of the driver of various Toyota vehicles.

Last, we went to the “Technology Zone,” where Toyota’s most impressive technological advancements in safety, environmental impact, and design were on display. Ryan and I were each able to test out the “Winglet,” Toyota’s answer to the Segway. With the assistance of a Winglet specialist, we were briefed on the features and were able to perform a series of mobility tests. Basically, we rolled around on an electric scooter for like half an hour. It was pretty freaking cool.

We returned back to the city for dinner and, obviously, one final karaoke session.

DAY 6

We bid farewell to Tokyo and made our way to the airport in pursuit of our next destination.

AWAY WE G-----

Hold on, before we go, I need to insert a quick disclaimer. Yes, we ate sushi. It was very good. I did not feel the need to go into detail about this earlier as we all know what sushi is. Okay? Okay.

AWAY WE GO TO SEOUL.

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

12: BLOSSOMING IN KYOTO

DAY 1:

We arrived to Kyoto in the afternoon, dropped off our things at our very trendy hostel, and set off to explore. We wandered through the cozy neighborhood streets toward the Kamo River, a popular local spot to relax. The river itself, though absolutely clear and beautiful, was completely outshined by the row of cherry trees lining its banks. They were in full boom, bursting with pale pink and bright white color. Because of the atypical cold snap in Japan, we were convinced that we would totally miss the cherry blossoms. We could not have been more wrong. Everywhere, Kyoto was dappled in color. Ryan and I walked along the river in awe.

After exploring a local shrine and walking along the riverbanks a bit more, we ate dinner at a little vegan spot overlooking the river. We returned to our hostel (aka hipster cafe during the day/aka hipster bar at night) and enjoyed a few Japanese specialty drinks: Asahi Beer and the Japanese Highball.

JAPANESE DRINK 101: HIGHBALL

Obviously, sake and beer are major components of Japanese cuisine, but the lesser-known highball is equally as important. Since the 1960s, it has become extremely popular as an affordable, high-quality drink. It features Japanese whiskey, soda water, and an optional garnish.

DAY 2:

We started our day early with a train ride out of the city to Arashiyama, a district filled with important shrines, temples, and gorgeous parks. Our first stop was the massive Bamboo Grove. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a thick forest of towering bamboo stalks. Walking through it, you are surrounded by bamboo as far as the eye can see. It is an almost otherworldly visual. The experience was made even more magical by a busker playing a rhythmic tune on a copper handpan.

After walking through the entire Bamboo Grove, we walked to a tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant specializing in vegan bento box meals.

JAPANESE FOOD 101: BENTO BOX

A bento is a single-portion meal served in a sectioned wooden tray. Each section is filled with a different food, commonly vegetables, meat, rice, noodles, and pickled mixes. Traditionally, bento boxes were used to transport food, especially during a hanami (eating a meal under the cherry blossoms).

We were blown away by the intense flavors and unique vegetables. It was the perfect traditional experience. I must also note that the passionate, elderly owner of the restaurant explained the historical and nutritional importance of the bento box all via google translate on his iPad. We finished our meal and found a sunny spot by the riverbanks to enjoy some matcha ice cream (a special treat that quickly became a daily treat).

We soaked in the sun for a while, then we headed to Tenryuji Temple, the most important temple in the Arashiyama District. Registered as a world heritage site, this temple celebrates the Rinzai Zen sect of Japanese Buddhism. The original temple buildings were constructed in 1339 but were destroyed and rebuilt many times over the centuries. They feature simple and traditional zen design. Unlike the buildings, however, the Tenryuji gardens remain in their original form, and they are truly something to see. Colorful trees and plants, beautifully labeled on wooden signposts in both Japanese and English characters, surround a central pond. Small fountains and religious statues were dotted throughout the garden. I was amazed by the wide array of plant life as we wandered down the paths.

Before leaving Arashiyama, we decided to walk through the Bamboo Grove once more, admiring the golden sunset peeking through the wall of bamboo.

Back at the hostel, we cooked up a quick meal in the beautiful and well-equipped hostel kitchen. It wasn’t long before we were chatting with other travelers and playing card games.

ASIDE:

I am often blown away by how easy it is to make friends while backpacking. I think the world could learn a thing or two from the welcoming, open-minded, and communal atmosphere in hostels.

DAY 3:

Our next day began with breakfast and a morning walk to the Fushimi Inari Shrine, a famous Shinto shrine in Kyoto. The main hall of the shrine is located at the foot of Mt. Inari. Though the buildings are beautiful and interesting, most visitors come to explore the forested mountain trails that are covered by 10,000 bright orange Torii gates. These gates have been donated by individuals, companies, and families throughout the years. At this moment, you should do a quick google search of “Fushimi Inari Shrine” to get an idea of what I am talking about, because it is a visual that words can’t quite explain. For about an hour, Ryan and I climbed the mountain paths overwhelmed by the incredible number of gates. It was wild.

After a quick lunch, we headed to the Kyoto Imperial Palace and Imperial Park. We explored the grounds of the Imperial Palace, which featured traditional Japanese houses, ceremonial buildings, and an impressive amount of meticulously raked gravel. The Imperial Palace is now only used for enthronement ceremonies. In our opinion, the Imperial Park was much more lively, and perhaps more impressive, as it was bustling with families, joggers, and dog walkers and absolutely covered in cherry blossoms. It was wonderful to see the community enjoying the beauty of the trees.

On our way back from the park, we decided to try something a little different: a foot bath cafe. Though it is pretty much exactly like it sounds, let me explain. We walked into a small shop, asked about the foot bath, and were led into a back room with tables suspended above small concrete boxes of steaming water. We climbed onto the connected benches, rolled up our pant legs, and slowly slid our feet into the VERY hot water. A waiter came by to take our order for teas and snacks. Soon, we were sipping warm teas and relaxing on the provided head pillows. It was an enjoyable, odd, and delicious experience.

Our night ended with dinner and another night of cards with our new Australian friends, Jack and Tiarne.

DAY 4:

The next morning, we walked through the streets of Kyoto to the steep road leading to Kiyomizu-dera, one of the most celebrated Buddhist temples in all of Japan. It was founded in 778, though many of the buildings have been destroyed by fires and rebuilt over the centuries. Most of the current temple buildings were constructed in 1633, which still makes them older than every building in the United States.

The main hall is the most renowned feature of the temple. It boasts a large, open-air veranda that looks over the entire city. Unfortunately, during the time we were visiting, the veranda was closed for construction. However, Kiyomizu-dera has much more to offer. Ryan and I wandered through the temple buildings, admiring the bold colors and intricate designs. Even from the ground level, the view from the temple was stunning, and the icing on the cake was, of course, the cherry blossoms.

Next, we walked to Honen-in Temple, my personal favorite. Honen-in is a very simple, small temple surrounded by forest. It features quaint stone paths, a breathtaking zen garden, and plenty of vibrant green moss. In my opinion, the natural feel inspired quiet, calm, and reverence among the visitors---more so than any other temple we visited.   

We spent the rest of the afternoon sauntering down the famous Philosopher’s Path.

THE WHAT-NOW??

The Philosopher’s Path is a 2 kilometer (1.2 miles) stone path that runs alongside the picturesque Lake Biwa Canal. It is said to get its name from Nishida Kitaro, an acclaimed Japanese philosopher who practiced meditation while walking the path to Kyoto University every morning. Though pleasant throughout the year, the path is especially stunning during cherry blossom season.

Luckily, we were right on target with our timing, and, boy, am I glad. The path was absolutely covered in cherry blossoms. The blooming trees leaning over the canal creating a flower dome over the path, which made for a gorgeous walk and a truly unforgettable visual. We took our time on the path---stopping to explore side alleys, admiring the cute shops lining the canal, and listening to the melodies of a solo busker.

Before heading back to the hostel for a late dinner, we sat on the banks of the Kamo River, in the center of town, to enjoy a Japanese beer and watch the sun slip below the horizon.

Our last night in Kyoto was spent talking and laughing with Jack and Tiarne, who gushed with us about Japan and generously gave us travel tips for Australia.

DAY 5:

It turned out that Jack and Tiarne were also leaving Kyoto the next morning. So, we had breakfast and walked together to the train station. We said our goodbyes and boarded another glorious bullet train to our last stop in Japan.

AWAY WE GO TO TOKYO.

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

11: FINDING PEACE IN HIROSHIMA

DAY 1:

After an incredibly quick, easy, and smooth ride on the bullet train, we arrived in Hiroshima. We checked into our hostel and dropped off our backpacks before heading to our first destination: Hiroshima Castle.

The castle grounds are located in the center of the city and surrounded on all sides by a wide moat that can be crossed via a long bridge passing under an impressive and traditional entry gate. The earthy colors are stunning--intricate gray roof, stark white walls, and deep brown wood accents--and wholly Japanese. We walked through the forested grounds to the main castle building. Much like Osaka Castle, it was a classic, Japanese design featuring a multi-tiered roof. The original structure was built in 1598, but, like everything else, it was completely destroyed in the 1945 bombing. It was rebuilt 13 years later.

After wandering through the rest of the castle grounds, we found ourselves at a renowned Okonomiyaki restaurant.

JAPANESE FOOD 101: OKONOMIYAKI

Okonomiyaki is a savory “pancake” consisting of a variety of ingredients ranging from cheese to cabbage to octopus. There are two main styles of Okonomiyaki: Hiroshima style and Osaka style. Seeing as we ate the dish in Hiroshima, we experienced the former. Basically, the dish is a thin, crispy pancake with layers of ingredients piled atop it, and then the entire thing is placed on yakisoba noodles and served on a hot griddle in the middle of your table. In short, it’s a steaming pile of goodness that tastes like heaven.

Using our traditional okonomiyaki dining utensils ( a small metal spatula for cutting your pancake into pieces and chopsticks), we devoured our steaming piles of goodness and washed it down with a full glass of sake.

JAPANESE DRINK 101: SAKE

This fermented rice wine is a Japanese classic and an international favorite.

We rolled ourselves out of the restaurant and into one of the very common/popular five story gaming megaplexes in the city’s shopping district. Yes, that’s right: FIVE STORIES of games of all shapes and sizes. The building boasts everything from claw machines to horse race betting games to complicated, fantasy games. Both the variety and amount of people gaming were overwhelming. (The fact that there was a smoking floor was also overwhelming.)

To finish off our first evening, we headed to the local Irish pub.

A PROVEN FACT:

No matter where you go in the world, there’s an Irish pub.

Aside from the many other wonderful attributes of a pub, there is one amazing thing about an Irish pub in a non-English speaking country: it’s where all the English speakers are. So, it’s nice to pop in once or twice while traveling to meet other travelers and swap stories and recommendations. We met a very kind Australian fellow who gave us some travel tips for his home country, and we chatted up the owner of the pub, a long-time Irish expat. It was nice to have casual conversation with native English speakers, and we soaked in the welcoming vibe of the pub.

DAY 2:

We dedicated our second day in Hiroshima to understanding the history, initial effects, and ultimate repercussions of the atomic bomb dropped in August 1945.

We began by walking through Peace Memorial Park, a beautiful, sprawling green space in the heart of the city. The park features several memorials and other buildings memorializing the events of that day. The first building we stopped in was the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, which aims to educate visitors about the bomb and the tell survivors’ stories.

As we walked through the museum, we learned many horrifying details about the bomb and why Hiroshima was chosen as a target. It was an admittedly complicated situation. For me, though, the most compelling exhibit was the collection of survivor stories. There were many videos clips featuring citizens of Hiroshima who lived through the bombing. Their stories were devastating. Most lost their entire families and witnessed countless deaths. Many sustained lifelong injuries.

The bomb killed over 80,000 people on impact. To put it in perspective, those numbers are akin to wiping Asheville, North Carolina, Bloomington, Indiana, or Newport Beach, California completely off the map. If you add the thousands more that died from radiation soon after the bombing, the number rises to around 135,000 or the population of Savannah, Georgia, Pasadena, California, or Dayton, Ohio. In addition to the immediate casualties and destruction, the aftereffects of the bomb have changed Hiroshima forever. Long-term exposure to radiation and pollution resulted in a myriad of cancers and birth defects in survivors and their children. Doctors and scientists still continue to monitor the health of survivors and their families.

Next, we visited the beautiful and haunting memorial hall honoring all those who lost their lives to the bomb. We walked to the Children’s Peace Monument, which is dedicated to the thousands of children who died. The monument is surrounded by glass cases of small, colorful origami cranes.

A THOUSAND PAPER CRANES

Sadako Sasaki was two years old when the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima. Though she was only two kilometers away from the hypocenter, she survived without any notable injuries. She grew up to be a strong and healthy girl. However, ten years later, she was abruptly diagnosed with cancer from radiation exposure. Before she died, she had a dream to create 1,000 paper cranes. According to Japanese legend, if a person folds 1,000 paper cranes, she is granted one wish. Sadako began to fold paper cranes in hope of regaining her health. Before she passed away a few months later, she was able to complete her goal of 1,000 paper cranes with the help of family and friends. Today people are able to fold their own paper cranes and add them to the Children’s Peace Monument.

Our last two stops were the A-Bomb Dome and the bomb hypocenter site. The A-Bomb Dome is, without doubt, one of the most haunting things I have seen. It sits on the banks of the beautiful river surrounded by greenery and a thriving cityscape. Originally a large hall for promotion events, the A-bomb Dome is now a warped shell of a building. Because it was located almost directly below the bomb when it exploded, the concrete walls and steel frame of the iconic domed roof remained mostly intact. However, the impact of the explosion killed everyone inside the building instantly and fire engulfed the interior. After much debate, it was decided that, rather than torn down, the building would be preserved as a reminder to the world of the horrors and immense suffering caused by nuclear war.

Not far from the A-bomb Dome, tucked in the back alley behind a large office building, sits a small marble slab with a plaque reading “Hypocenter. The first atomic bomb used in the history of humankind exploded approximately 600 meters above this spot.” Ryan and I stood there in silence for a moment. I looked at the sky.

Above all else, the museums, monuments, and memorials left us with one lasting impression: the intense desire for peace.

DAY 3:

Our next day in Hiroshima wasn’t actually in Hiroshima at all. We hopped on a bus, then a train, then a ferry and arrived at a little island in Hiroshima Bay called Miyajima. The island is most famous for its Itsukushima Shrine, a giant orange Torii gate that looks like it is floating in high tide. However, Miyajima has so much to offer. We began by exploring the small village streets and snacking on Momiji Manjyu.

JAPANESE FOOD 101: MOMIJI MANJYU

These small maple-leaf-shaped cakes originated about 100 years ago as a Miyajima speciality. The airy cakes are traditionally filled with sweet red-bean paste. Though cute as can be, sweet red bean is admittedly not my favorite flavor.

Miyajima is also famous for its population of friendly, free-roaming deer. These cute, little animals wander through the crowds, occasionally snatching a paper map or fallen popcorn. They are truly everywhere---napping under the trees, posing by the shrine, and sauntering alongside tourists.

After a few more snacks, Ryan and I hiked up to a cable car that took us to Mount Misen, the highest peak of Miyajima. To get to the actual summit of the mountain, we had to climb a bit further up a steep path. It was worth every step. The views were unmatched. Miyajima, Hiroshima Bay, and the islands beyond were in full and spectacular view. After visiting multiple shrines positioned on the mountain, we decided to hike back down on foot in order to take in the full beauty of the forested path. It was a gorgeous and peaceful walk.

Once back in the village, we made our final stop at Miyajima Brewery to sip on some craft brews and take in the magnificence of the sunset over Hiroshima Bay. Soon, we were back on the ferry to Hiroshima.

DAY 4:

When we left Hiroshima the next morning, we felt truly impacted by the experience and effects of the atomic bomb.

As American citizens, it is so important to consider both current and historical events from all sides of the story. Nothing is ever black and white. As human beings, it is so important to always remember that every action we take against another person has its consequences--whether intended or not. And as an inherently connected world, it is so important to understand the ramifications of war, especially nuclear war, and the continuing need to work diligently toward lasting peace.

No more Hiroshimas.

Away we go.

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

10: EATING OUR WAY THROUGH OSAKA

As mentioned in my latest blog post, Ryan and I have had a two month whirlwind of a school  break. Honestly, whirlwind feels like an understatement, but you can decide that for yourself…

The first two weeks of March were dedicated to a “Thailand’s Greatest Hits featuring Sophie & Ryan” tour with my mom and dad. This consisted of relaxing in the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean (for details of this stunning location refer to chapter 5), eating our way through the vibey town of Chiang Mai (chapters 3 and 4), and taking in all the opulent temples, well-designed malls, and chaotic charm of Bangkok (chapter 6). Every single day was absolutely magical, and I am forever grateful to my parents for taking time out of their busy lives to brave the Thai heat and see what our life looks like.

A little over 24 hours after my parents departed, Ryan and I packed our backpacks and boarded a plane of our own.

AWAY WE GO TO JAPAN!

DAY .5

Our first stop was Osaka, the second largest city in the country. We landed at night, queued our way through immigration, used a Japanese toilet for the first time (more on this later), and found our way onto a train to the city center. This train ride was our first look into the unbelievably clean, quiet, and well-organized machine called Japan, and it set the bar high. Upon arrival at the train station, we hopped into a cab and headed for our hostel.

DAY 1

We woke to a chilly, rainy morning. Apparently, we had arrived in Japan just in time for a unprecedented cold snap. Despite the weather, we bundled up and made our way through the streets of Osaka.

ASIDE:

It was at this point that we realized just how much tropical Thailand had changed our sense of temperature. We were officially cold weather wimps.

The first spot on our agenda was Osaka Castle, a gorgeous tiered tower in traditional Japanese architectural style. The castle was built, destroyed, and rebuilt many times beginning in 1583, but the current structure was completed in 1931. The building is surrounded by wide moats, stone walls, and expansive gardens. We explored the grounds in awe. Before leaving, we had to try our first Japanese treat, a warm, chocolate-filled Taiyaki.

JAPANESE FOOD 101: TAIYAKI

Taiyaki is a popular, fish-shaped (Asian carp-shaped, to be exact) pastry with a creamy filling. Common fillings include sweet red bean, custard, chocolate, cheese and ice cream.

After wiping the chocolate from our mouths, we hopped onto the metro and rode to the Shinsaibashi area. Shinsaibashi is the main shopping district in Osaka featuring its iconic arcade-style covered streets lined with everything from high-end shops to thrift stores. We weaved through the crowds of shoppers to a quieter side street for lunch at the city’s oldest vegan restaurant. It did not disappoint.

Huddled under umbrellas, we walked through the drizzle to Orange Street--a collection of small, trendy shops tucked in an alley away from the hustle bustle of the city. We took shelter in the little shops, perusing artisan homegoods and trying out leather couches. It was clear that creativity, design, and progressive fashion were alive and well in Osaka.

Again, we squeezed through the (now bigger) crowds in the Shinsaibashi area to find our dinner spot--another Japanese vegan restaurant. I had an incredible meatless version of the classic Gyudon dish.

JAPANESE FOOD 101: GYUDON

Directly translated, Gyudon means ‘beef bowl,’ which is pretty self explanatory. The dish consists of thinly sliced beef and onion cooked in a sweet and salty sauce on top of a bowl of rice. It is considered to be Japanese comfort food. Admittedly, I also found it very comforting.

After dinner, we made our way to the Dotonbori Area, the downtown area of Osaka. A canal runs directly through the heart of the city, so Dotonbori mainly consists of two promenades running alongside the water. These walking streets are lined with shops, restaurants, and, infamously, advertisements. If you haven’t heard of or seen Dotonbori, it is worth looking up. It is a visual that is hard to accurately describe: massive, neon billboards attached to the side of buildings, incredible 3-D signs advertising the stores below, even a giant crab adorning the entrance of a seafood restaurant.

Perhaps even more enthralling are the tiny, hidden alleyways segmenting off the main road. Lit by red, paper lanterns, the maze of narrow paths lead to the real treasures of Dotonbori--hole in the wall pubs and mom and pop restaurants seating only 2 or 3 patrons. Ryan and I found ourselves climbing a spiral staircase and choosing a random door. We opened it to find a small, dim, rectangular room, about as big as the inside of a school bus. Our jaws dropped. One wall was covered floor to ceiling with massive bookshelves containing every jazz record you could imagine. The opposite wall featured a small bar with a few patrons smoking and a elderly Japanese bartender. The back wall was an array of various speakers and lamps, stacked upon each other in a tetris-like fashion.  We sat down at one of the two small tables and ordered Yebisu beers (a Japan standard) and tried to soak in the quirky charm of the place. The few patrons at the bar continued to smoke, adding to the retro atmosphere. Every few minutes the bartender would come out from behind the bar to flip or change the record. The whole scene was like something out of a movie, and we were happy to be a part of it.

DAY 2

Our second day began with a trip outside the city to the Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum. That’s right: a museum honoring the world-famous Cup Noodles and its founder, Momofuku Ando. Contrary to what you may think, the noodles have a rather interesting history.

THE COMPLETE HISTORY OF INSTANT RAMEN

After observing poverty-stricken citizens of Osaka struggling for access to a simple, warm meal, Momofuku Ando was impassioned to solve the food shortage problem in post-war Japan. Though not suited for the task by trade, Ando formulated a plan. He wanted to create a food that was tasty, economical, non-perishable, and ready in less than three minutes. He spent more than a year trying and failing to create a noodle recipe allowing for instant rehydration. Finally, and quite by accident, he discovered that using tempura oil allowed for the perfect consistency and dehydration. In 1958, Ando’s first instant noodle product was released. He went on to invent today’s Cup Noodles, as well as many other international products. He even created a special product for astronauts aboard Japan’s Discovery space shuttle. Ando died in 2007 and was mourned by the entire country as a national hero.

Ryan and I were surprised by the cultural impact and humble beginnings of the instant noodle. The museum itself was also lovely. Visitors were able to wander through the thorough exhibit and make their own custom Cup Noodles at the end.

After a quick lunch, Ryan and I wandered to the Shinsekai area. Visually similar to the wild, gaudy style of Dotonbori, Shinsekai is a neighborhood that was rebuilt following World War II, flourished in the years following, and remained largely untouched since. It’s an interesting spot. Shops selling tourist t-shirts are interspersed with cheap, cafeteria-style restaurants full of locals and small rooms of old men playing traditional Japanese board games. We indulged in Shinsekai’s famous snack: kushikatsu.

JAPANESE FOOD 101: KUSHIKATSU

Kushikatsu are various meats, veggies, eggs, or seafood that are breaded, deep fried, and skewered. The skewers are served up with metal tins of salty dipping sauce and fresh cabbage leaves. The number one rule of kushikatsu? No double dipping.

After stuffing our faces with potato and banana kushikatsu, we walked to Shitenno-ji Temple, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Japan. Coming from Thailand, a country with over 30,000 active Buddhist temples, Ryan and I were blown away by how different the entire temple experience is in Japan. The structures themselves were very simple and featured a classic tiered pagoda, a raked gravel zen garden, and a massive traditional gate. We visited the main hall and climbed up the pagoda. We found it to be a very peaceful, quiet, and reverent experience.

As the afternoon turned to evening, we had another vegan Japanese dinner in a cozy restaurant overlooking the street, and finished the night with our first of many mochi ice cream balls.

JAPANESE FOOD 101: MOCHI

Mochi is a rice “cake” made from glutinous rice. The rice cake is then pounded into a paste and molded into a shape. Common recipes include mochi balls filled with a sweet bean paste, small pieces of mochi in warm bean soup, and balls of ice cream wrapped inside a mochi covering.

DAY 3

After an early breakfast, we checked out of our hostel and walked to the Osaka Train Station to catch our first Shinkansen, or bullet, train. If you don’t already know, Japan has a network of high speed trains that link most of its major cities. The bullet trains travel between 200-300 miles per hour, making several stops before arriving at the final destination. They are extremely clean, efficient, reliable, and safe. They also reduce carbon dioxide emissions by approximately 15,000 tons per year. Basically, they are the future, and we should all get on board---literally and, and in our case, physically.

AWAY WE GO TO HIROSHIMA.

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

9: DOMESTIC ADVENTURES IN THAILAND

On the weekends that we aren’t travelling internationally around Asia, Ryan and I have spent our time exploring our homebase of Bangkok, as well as some other beautiful spots in Thailand.

Here are a few of our favorite experiences:

KANCHANABURI:

The Death Railway.

Earlier in the semester, a group of us took a quick van ride to a province west of Bangkok called Kanchanaburi. The area is known for two things: the Thailand--Burma Death Railway and Erawan National Park.

The Death Railway is a rail route connecting Thailand and Burma (now Myanmar) that was constructed as a supply line for the Japanese army and their troops during World War II. Construction of the railway began in 1942 when Australian Prisoners of War were sent to Burma. They were soon followed by British POWs, as well as those from other Allied troops. The Japanese army also recruited hundreds of thousands of Southeast Asian civilian laborers--the majority from Malaysia (approx. 90,000 workers) and Burma (approx. 75,000 workers), as well as almost 100,000 Malayan Tamils of Indian origin. They were promised fair wages, flexible contracts, and suitable housing. However, neither the POWs nor the civilian workers were given any of those. Working and living conditions were absolutely appalling. There was a severe lack of food, no medicinal care, and rampant abuse and maltreatment. By the end of the construction in 1943, it is estimated that over 61,000 POWs and 90,000 civilian laborers died while building the railway. This story was made famous by The Bridge on the River Kwai, though both the book and film contain quite a few historical inaccuracies and fail to accurately portray the hellish conditions of the construction.

While in Kanchanaburi, we were able to walk across a small section of railroad and visit The Death Railway Museum. It was a very unique experience. To be honest, the view from the bridge and railroad was gorgeous--a rushing river flanked by lush, green jungle foliage. It was difficult to imagine that so much pain and death created a remarkably peaceful sight. I think the Earth has a way of healing such places.

Erawan National Park.

Our second stop in Kanchanaburi was Erawan National Park, which consists of thick forest and  seven tiers of waterfalls that cascade from craggy, limestone cliffs and down the side of a massive hill. After walking to the trailhead, we hiked along the wooded paths and over footbridges past each of the rushing waterfalls until we reached the seventh one, renowned for being the most beautiful. And, good gracious, beautiful was an understatement. It was stunning, breathtaking, even ethereal. The water was impossibly blue, collecting at the bottom of the falls in pools of extraordinary color. We waded and floated in the water and climbed along the rocks. From the top of the seventh waterfall, we could see the cliffs above and the small trickle of water that ultimately form the falls. This sight resonated deeply with all of us: miles of waterfalls, pools, and creeks carved by a few droplets of water moving together.

BANGKOK EDGE FESTIVAL:

Ryan and I had the pleasure of attending the Bangkok Edge Festival at the end of January. The festival featured talks on culture, art, travel, environmentalism, food, and social movements. Food trucks, vendor stalls, and a pop-up bookstore were also wonderful additions to the experience. The festival was attended by an exciting mix of both foreigners and Thai locals. We attended multiple sessions. My personal favorite was a workshop led by an inspiring German expat who is living a zero-waste lifestyle in Bangkok, which is amazing anywhere but especially commendable in a developing country with undrinkable water and a plastic obsession. She outlined simple ways to minimize our environmental impact while living in Thailand and gave us a list of local shops and organizations to support and patronize. It was a refreshing chance to look at the way we have been ethically and environmentally interacting with this country. Other notable sessions included a panel discussion on the impact of neo-nationalism globally, a photojournalistic presentation on Asian food, and a concert by Hugo, an acclaimed Thai musician.

UDON THANI:

Just a few weeks ago, a group of us flew to the province of Udon Thani in the northeastern region of Thailand, slightly below the border of Laos. We were in hot pursuit of the elusive Red Lotus Sea, which is actually not a sea--just a massive lake. Every December, millions of pink water lilies bloom across the surface of the lake, creating a “sea” of striking color. The blooms only last until the end of February, when the weather becomes hotter. Lucky for us, we were able to make it to Udon just in time.

The blooms only open in the early hours of the morning, when the sun isn’t too intense. So, we arrived at the lake around 7:30 AM and boarded a small motor boat. We left the dock and puttered toward the flowers. At first, there were only a few sporadic flowers, but as we floated through the winding paths between the lily pads, more and more pink petals came into view. Soon, the entire horizon was covered in a thick, pink blanket of blooms. We were all blown away by the magical sight.

Besides the Red Lotus Sea, the tiny town of Udon Thani has another very interesting aspect: a known culture of interracial marriage (Westerners marrying Thais). This Western influence results in some very rare and exciting food and drink options. We took full advantage of this at an Italian restaurant run by an Italian-Swiss man and his Thai wife. We stuffed ourselves with authentic gnocchi, fresh bruschetta, and italian cheese. It was a delightful change of pace. Later, we enjoyed Thai craft beers and the local night market.

SAMUT SONGKHRAM:

Our most recent adventure took us to visit our friend Alex in her home of Samut Songkhram, the smallest province of Thailand located just an hour or so outside of Bangkok. Surprisingly, this little area is well-known for several tourist destinations.

The Train Market.

The Mae Klong Railroad runs through the center of town--directly through a market. That’s right, people. THROUGH A MARKET.  Back in the early 1900s, the Thai government decided to build a railroad to deliver goods through Samut Songkhram, and, coincidentally, the planned route sliced right through the town’s main produce market. Rather than change the route or location of the market, both the government and vendors decided to have it both ways. The government built the railroad and the produce market continues to function today. Every day, several times a day, the vendors pack up their produce and pull their awnings back from the railroad to let the train pass, and then they put it all back on top of the tracks.

We were able to witness the transition between market to railroad and back to market. It was absolutely wild. The market vendors were literally on the tracks 5 minutes before the train pulled through. The entire market feverishly packed up their items and let the train pass just inches from their faces. There were tomatoes rolling around under the train cars. This was maybe one of the most “Thai” things I have witnessed here.

The Floating Markets.

Samut Songkhram is home to not one, not two, but THREE floating markets. A floating market is, as you have probably guessed, a market on the water. Visitors float in boats to purchase items from vendors on the river selling goods boats and on the docks alongside. Items available include anything from clothes to hot food to art. Fortunately, we were able to visit all three, as each one is unique in its own way. I have put them in order of most to least touristy. 

1. Damnoen Saduak Floating Market: This is by far the most touristy floating market in Thailand. There are many foreigners floating down the river in small boats, so the small, canal-sized river can get very crowded. We did not get on a boat or spend much time at this market due to its crowds and touristy nature.

2. Amphawa Floating Market: This market also attracts tourists, though the prices and atmosphere are much more authentic. We were able to walk along the side docks looking at food stalls, vendors, and boats passing by. After exploring, we settled down for a incredible Thai meal on one of the docks overlooking the river and the pink sunset. It was beautiful and delicious!

3. Tha Kha Floating Market - This market was definitely the most authentic, relaxed, and frequented by locals. We browsed through the offerings along the sides of the river (homemade coconut ice cream! score!), and then we hopped in a long wooden boat. We were paddled down the river by a happy Thai woman who offered us straw hats to block the sun. We made a sharp turn off of the main drag and began weaving through narrow waterways beneath the jungle foliage. We were serenaded the blissful sounds of gurgling water, birds overhead, and wind in the palm trees. I was taken aback by the unexpected beauty. We were dropped off at a nearby palm sugar farm, where we experienced a tour of the process of harvesting and preparing palm sugar--a unique tradition of climbing towering palm trees on bamboo scaffolding to access the sweet sap of the palm tree flowers.

As the semester winds down, Ryan and I are looking forward to our upcoming adventures over “summer” break (actually, March and April break) before returning to Seekan School for another term.

Of course, I will update the blog as we go with our experiences, impressions, and probably embarrassments.

COMING SOON TO A BLOG NEAR YOU:

A “Thailand’s Greatest Hits” tour with my parents

Osaka, Kyoto, Hiroshima, and Tokyo, Japan

Seoul, South Korea

Hanoi, Vietnam

And other adventures

AWAY WE GO.

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

8: RINGING IN THE NEW YEAR IN SINGAPORE

Yes, yes, yes, I know. I am very late. In fact, I am more than a month overdue on this blog post, so I must ask for your pardon and your willingness to go back in time a little bit…

AWAY WE GO TO SINGAPORE!

DAY .5:

After work on Friday afternoon, Ryan and I made the short walk to the airport to hop on a plane for Singapore, along with two of our friends and fellow Greenheart teachers, Celia and Alayna.

The flight was quick and easy, and we landed in the beautiful Changi Airport (more on this later) without a hitch.

A BREATHTAKING SIGHT:

As we flew into Singapore, we crossed over the bay and harbor. The night lights of yachts, sailboats, and other massive vessels anchored off-shore dotted the dark waters like stars in the sky. It was one of the most breathtaking airplane views I have ever seen.

We grabbed a cab and cruised to our hostel. Just like Kulala Lampur, we were instantly blown away by the well-paved and well-lit streets, civilized traffic patterns, and lack of crazed motorbike drivers. Singapore is infamous for being extremely organized and structured. Our taxi driver briefed us on the many taxes for tourists and citizens in Singapore, as well as the stringent fines imposed for breaking any of the various (and super specific) laws: drinking water on the subway, possessing/selling chewing gum, throwing cigarette butts on the ground, etc.

We arrived at our hostel, took a short walk along the main street, and settled in for the night.

SOMETHING YOU MAY BE ASKING YOURSELF:

Wait. Is Singapore a country? Or a city? And where is it exactly? I remember hearing something about this in geography class…

Good question! Singapore is considered to be a sovereign city-state, which means it functions as a small country complete with a Prime Minister, President, and parliament. As mentioned, Singapore has its own laws and taxes, as well as a military. The main island of Singapore lies directly below the southern coast of Malaysia. It is small--about a 45 minute drive from side to side or from top to bottom. Technically, it has four official languages, but every citizen speaks English fluently. Singapore’s population is made of up of citizens from varying geographic backgrounds (the majority being Chinese, Indian, or Malay), which makes for a diverse cultural scene.

DAY 1:

After a quick breakfast at the hostel, we set off for one of Singapore’s most well-known landmarks, the Marina Bay Sands building. This building has a very unique look: three massive columns (which are actually three, flat, rectangular towers leaning against three other towers) supporting what looks like a long yacht on the top. The columns are full of hotel rooms and at the top lies a pool, bar, restaurant, and observation deck. At the bottom, another structure is tucked in the space between the towers. This structure houses a luxury mall and performance theater. Trust me, this thing is worth a google image search.

Our first order of business was to ride the elevator to the 57th floor of the Marina Bay Sands to take in the best view of the city on the massive observation deck. And, my goodness, it was worth it.

Apart from being a very efficient and functional city, Singapore is also extremely beautiful. From the observation deck, we could see the gorgeous bay, vibrant green spaces, and the stunning, modern architecture of the buildings below. It was a view like no other. We took our time soaking in the sights.

Our next stop was the Gardens by the Bay, an incredibly unique nature park situated next to the Marina Bay Sands.

GARDENS BY THE BAY: A TABLE OF CONTENTS:

1: Supertree Grove

2: The Outdoor Gardens

3: The Flower Dome Conservatory

4: The Cloud Forest Conservatory

1: Supertree Grove

The Supertree Grove is made up of several tree-like structures that function as vertical garden spaces, solar energy collectors, rainwater cisterns used for irrigation, and air cooling and circulation machines for the indoor spaces. They are designed to mimic the way that trees photosynthesize, providing clean energy and irrigation for the conservatory buildings----not to mention their stunning appearance.

2: The Outdoor Gardens

I am using this title as a catch-all for the portions of Gardens by the Bay that aren’t in the grove or conservatories. Throughout the 250 acres of reclaimed land, there are several outdoor gardens categorized horticulturally, a children’s garden, Satay by the Bay (an open-air food court), and a walking path along the bay. We had a delicious Indian lunch at the food court and enjoyed walking through some of the outdoor gardens.

3: The Flower Dome Conservatory

This 3 acre domed-greenhouse featured a dizzying array of rare plants and flowers from areas with a mild, dry climate, such as the Mediterranean, South America, South Africa, and Australia. We wandered along the beautiful pathways, admiring both the dazzling plant life and exceptional artwork scattered throughout. From cacti to olive trees to peonies, the diversity of the conservatory was incredible. I couldn’t get enough.

4: The Cloud Forest Conservatory

This second dome is a little harder to explain. It replicates a cool, wet climate found in Southeast Asia and South America. Inside, there is a massive, mountainous structure that is covered thoroughly in surface-clinging plants (think mosses, lichens, ferns, various vines, orchids, etc) and completed by a 115 foot waterfall. The structure is hollow in the middle, which allows for visitors to walk around and through the “mountain.” At the end of the winding path around the dome, there is an exhibit on environmental degradation via human action and the projected future of the planet if preventative action isn’t taken. The exhibit finished with a list of ways to make a positive impact through everyday changes.

I cannot say enough about the unparalleled beauty and ingenius engineering of Gardens by the Bay. For me, the entire experience was deeply impactful.

For a rainy afternoon pick me up, we headed to a Harry Potter-themed cafe for snacks, warm drinks, of course, pictures with broomsticks and wands.

SIDE NOTE:

We were able to gallivant all over Singapore using our tourist transit passes. As you can probably imagine, Singapore has extremely efficient and well-designed public transit (buses, subway, trams, and more) that allows for easy travel to every corner of the island. All public transit is clean, punctual, and user-friendly. Just another reason why Singapore rocks.

Next up on the agenda: the world’s highest urban craft brewery. Located on the 33rd floor of the Marina Bay Sands Financial Center, this craft brewery is known for both the beer and the view. We were able to sit on the outdoor patio and enjoy an incredible nighttime view of the bay.

After taking full advantage of the vantage point, we headed to Potato Head, a super quirky, multi-level restaurant and bar for a late dinner. We enjoyed a delicious meal and the unique ambiance before a heavy rainstorm sent us home for the night.  

DAY 2:

Our second day began with a trip to the trendiest neighborhood in Singapore: Bugis Street and Haji Lane.

We explored the trendy and modern mall scene on Bugis Street in the early morning before making our way toward the more indie shops on Haji Lane.

Haji Lane is less of a lane and more of a wide alleyway. Tiny storefronts line the walls and what little wall space isn’t used by a store is covered top to bottom in colorful street art. The quirky charm is impossible to resist. We wandered through the alley before settling into a small Italian bistro for lunch. The menu featured handmade pasta and imported cheese made by the Italian owner and chef. We were all blown away by the delicious authenticity of the food. According to Ryan, who is a native Chicagoan and naturally a pizza snob, claims it was the best pizza he has ever had. Singapore for the win!

We spent the rest of the afternoon browsing through the artisanal shops. We bought mini pies from Windowsill Pies, the cutest tiny pie shop with yellow walls and blue shutters, and we indulged in the internet-famous “selfie coffee”.

A SELFIE…...COFFEE???

Yes, you read that correctly. Selfie Coffee. Basically, you take a selfie on a special camera, and then the barista prints your photo on the foam of your coffee. It sounds a little silly, but it turned out to be surprisingly cool. And the coffee isn’t too bad either.

Next we walked just down the street to see the main feature of the adjacent Arab Street: Masjid Sultan, or the Sultan Mosque. This functioning mosque is a pivotal center of the Muslim population in Singapore, and the facade is insane. Featuring a massive gold dome and iconic architectural features, it looks straight out of a movie. Once again, worth a google search.

We spent the remainder of the late afternoon resting and refreshing for the night’s festivities: NEW YEARS!

In the evening, we went back to Haji Lane in pursuit of another ethnic food we’d been missing: Mexican! Chips and salsa, tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas, and margaritas--our New Years night was off to a delicious start. Then we walked down the alley to a small craft beer pub to meet up with Kate and her friends!

KATE? WHO IS KATE?

Kate is a friend that Ryan and I made while visiting Krabi in October. She is originally from China, but is currently studying at university in Singapore. AND GET THIS: she studied abroad at the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis! Kate is well-traveled, smart, and speaks incredible English, so it was a joy to be able to meet up with her again!

We all got to know each other over a few drinks, before Ryan, Alayna, Celia, and I departed for our main NYE event: the countdown at a carnival celebration with music by the bay! We took a quick train ride and walked to the entrance of the packed carnival space. There was a massive line, and we soon found out the event space was at capacity. It was pouring at this point, and it didn’t take long for us to decide that we needed to make a last minute change of plans. We agreed to go back to Haji Lane for the countdown, and I am unbelievably glad we did.  

We arrived, met back up with Kate and her friends, and joined the celebration in the alleyway. A few tents had been hastily set up near the DJ booth to shield the party from the rain, but it wasn’t long before everyone began ditched the small covered area and began dancing in the rain.

It was absolute magic.

We rang in the new year completely rain-soaked and so so happy.

DAY 3:

We enjoyed a relaxed morning and a fancy brunch at a Singaporean coffee roaster and cafe. Afterwards, we took an accidental bus ride to Sentosa, a small island just 15 minutes from mainland Singapore that is home to a beachfront, Universal Studios, several luxury resorts, and two golf courses. We didn’t stay for long, but it was an interesting to see the bulk of the traditional tourist attractions.

Then, we made our way to a very interesting landmark called Haw Par Villa. This “theme park” is a massive collection of art and colorful statues depicting ancient Chinese folklore and mythology. It was commissioned by the Aw Brothers, co-developers of Tiger Balm, in 1937 as a public gallery and venue for teaching traditional Chinese values. It is well-known for its outrageous dioramas, especially the cave-like exhibit of the “10 Courts of Hell,” which was just as gruesome as it sounds. It was a unique look at the vibrant mythology in Chinese Buddhism.

Next, we made the quick trip to the Singapore Botanic Gardens, a 158-year-old tropical garden recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The best thing about this beautiful land and massive collection of plant life is that it’s free to the public! It was amazing to see how these gardens played a role in the surrounding community--- the busy gardens featured joggers and their dogs, children at play, and families picnicking in the picturesque gazebos. I was also amazed at the variety of plants and the unique collections that were featured: a medicinal plant garden, a fragrant flower garden, a poisonous plant garden (don’t worry; it’s only open to the public with a guide), a foliage garden, a trellis garden, and of course the renowned National Orchid Garden, among many others.

We capped off a long day of walking and exploring by stuffing ourselves with meal from one of Singapore’s oldest Indian vegetarian restaurants. Perfect.

DAY 4:

Despite our early evening departure time, we spent the entire day at the airport. This may sound silly, but Changi Airport is an entire destination in itself. 

SOME THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT CHANGI AIRPORT:

Since 2013, it has consistently been rated the world’s best airport.

There are 4 enormous terminals, as well as a luxury terminal for private fliers.

The airport boasts several indoor gardens, as well as an outdoor one, a free movie theater, free massage machines, various relaxation zones, luxury shopping, an entertainment deck with gaming consoles, and countless art exhibitions throughout the airport.

Yes, I think I have to agree that Changi is the world’s best airport.

Our Changi adventure started by exploring the butterfly garden, a enclosure that is home to over 1,000 butterflies and vibrant, colorful foliage. We watched the beautiful creatures feast on pineapple slices and flutter around the peaceful space. Celia opted for a free movie screening while we continued to explore the terminals.

We stopped by the free leg and foot massage machines, the orchid garden and koi pond, and the forest inside the airport (trees literally growing out of the airport ground). We also walked up to the rooftop sunflower garden, where you can admire the rows of sunflowers and watch an airplane take off at the same time. Next was the entertainment deck for some old school arcade games and a flower garden accented with beautiful glass mosaic art pieces.

All too soon, it was time for us to say goodbye to Singapore and leave the magical world of Changi airport.

AWAY WE GO (BACK) TO BANGKOK!

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

**notice my attempt at Santa

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

INTERLUDE: A VERY THAI CHRISTMAS

Welcome to the sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway holiday special! Better late than never, right?

WINTER WONDER-THAI-LAND: A SEEKAN SCHOOL CHRISTMAS STORY

As many of you can imagine, celebrating the holidays is just a little different in Thailand than the United States. As a Buddhist country, Christmas holds no religious weight for Thai people. However, the cultural impact is surprisingly intense.

Throughout the entire month of December, most malls, markets, parks, and other public places displayed Christmas decorations and lights. In fact, the malls in Bangkok had more intricate holiday decor than I have seen anywhere in the United States. I’m talking three story Christmas trees decked out with fake snow, twinkling lights, and massive, colorful ornaments. I’m talking a fake brick wall coated in a layer of fluffy snow with owls hiding in the nooks. I’m talking an entire snowy, cozy Christmas village, complete with pine trees, a multi-story lookout deck, and craft activities for kids. For a country that doesn’t technically even recognize Christmas as a holiday, it was pretty amazing stuff.

On Christmas Eve, Ryan and I, along with several of our friends, attended a four-course holiday feast at an English Pub in Bangkok. We donned the traditional English paper crowns and gorged on red wine, cauliflower soup, spinach salad, shepard’s pie, and a fruit tart for dessert. It was a delicious and comforting menu for a not-so-Christmassy Christmas.

On Christmas Day, we headed to school for work. That’s right: work. On Christmas. But, to our delight, the morning began with a festive assembly featuring dancing, singing, chanting, and Brooke and John, our foreign cohorts, as Santa and Mrs. Claus (who is referred to as Sandy by the Thai people) and Ryan and I as elves.

A MIND-BLOWING REALIZATION:

Thailand, like most other countries in the world, believe that Santa Claus lives in FINLAND. Not in the North Pole. IN FINLAND. WHAT!!???

Brooke and John---alias: Sandy and Santa---walked around during the assembly handing out presents to the students and generally spreading cheer. After a speech by the school director and (one too many) verses of “We Wish You A Merry Christmas,” we all dispersed to our classrooms and finished the rest of the day as usual.

For dinner, Brooke, Ryan, and I had a DIY Christmas feast. Christmas carols, cheese and crackers, rice cooker chilli, 7-11 wine, and dark chocolate were all enjoyed, despite the very un-festive 90 degree weather outside.

We had ourselves a merry little Christmas, and we hope you and yours did too.

A few days later, Ryan and I jumped on a plane with two of our friends and fellow greenheart alumni, Alayna and Celia.

AWAY WE GO TO SINGAPORE.

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]

7: LIVING THE HIGH LIFE IN KUALA LAMPUR

As promised, we (along with a few friends) departed Thailand in search of new horizons, and our plane touched down in the interestingly sleek Kuala Lampur, Malaysia.

DAY 1:

Our first day in Malaysia was actually a day full of teaching in Bangkok followed by an unsurprising delay and quick flight. We arrived in Kuala Lampur late at night. As we sped down the (expertly paved, well-lit, totally un-Thai) interstate in our cab, we couldn’t help but notice just how modern KL seemed in comparison to Thailand. In addition to the even pavement and street lights, there were actual road signs, traffic lights that weren’t ignored, and a welcoming lack of motorbikes.

We admired the city lights and spotted the famous Petronas Towers, illuminated in all their glory. Soon, we arrived at our airbnb apartment and settled in for the night.

DAY 2:

Our first morning began with a quick breakfast at the central mall in KL followed by a train ride out of the city. Unsure quite what to expect, we hopped off at the Batu Caves station.

THE BATU CAVES: A TEMPLE WITH MONKEYS? OR MONKEYS WITH A TEMPLE?

The Batu Caves is a massive hill of limestone containing several Hindu temple caves. It is one of the more popular destinations for Hindu pilgrims and features an incredible huge golden statue of Murugan, the Hindu god of war.

The limestone inside the caves has been charted to be over 400 million years old.

There are monkeys. Oh, there are monkeys.

We walked over to the base of the 272 steps leading to the main cave and were immediately taken aback by the sheer amount of monkeys (macaques, to be exact) crawling, leaping, hopping, running, and lounging around the entire area. At first glance, it didn’t seem like much of an issue. They were cute and fun, right? Not exactly. These monkeys were professional pickpockets. They would leap across the stairs, grab whatever exciting, colorful thing was in your hand, and dart away to eat their spoils. Luckily, none of us fell victim to the monkey robbers, but we did see a fair share of people lose snacks, trash, and religious flower garlands.

We made it up the steps with all our belongings intact and explored the lofty interior of the cave. The walls were dotted with shrines, paintings, and religious statues. Near the back, the main temple, complete with its own army of monkeys, featured intricate, multi-colored architecture and art. It was a sight to see.

After the main cave, we explored several more caves with varying presentations of whimsical Hindu art, and then we hopped on a train back to the city center.

Our next stop was Little India, also known as the Brickfields neighborhood, just a few minutes walk from the train station. As we made our way down the main road, we admired the colorful textile shops, booming Bollywood music, and open-air Indian buffets. We quickly picked one of the many Indian vegetarian restaurants and grabbed a table inside. Soon, we were stuffing our faces with different curries, rice dishes, and, delicious Indian bread. It was a feast, and we ate every last bite.

After exploring the city on foot for a while longer, we headed back to our airbnb apartment for some rest and to spruce up for our evening destination: a skybar with an infamous view.

The Traders’ Hotel Skybar is located on the 33rd floor, positioning it to have a perfect, unobstructed view of the impressive Petronas Towers.

A CONDENSED HISTORY OF THE PETRONAS TOWERS

The massive towers were constructed from spring of 1994 to spring of 1996 and officially opened in August 1999. Each tower has 88 floors, and the concrete, steel, and glass architecture is based on elements found in Islamic art.

There was a bomb threat on the towers on September 12, 2001, the day after the devastating events in the U.S. However, no bomb was found.

The towers were named the tallest buildings in the world until the completion of Taipei 101 in 2004.

The double-decker skybridge connecting the two towers on the 41st and 42nd floors still remains the highest 2-story bridge in the world, just as the whole building still holds the title of tallest twin towers in the world.

From the windows of the skybar, we could see the glamorous towers perfectly. Below the buildings, the adjoining KLCC park was hosting a colorful light show, which made the view even more breathtaking. We sipped our hand-crafted cocktails** and looked out over the modern Kuala Lampur cityscape.

**My brother, Luke, fancies himself as quite the mixologist and will surely want to know just what kind of hand-crafted cocktail I was sipping on. It was tanqueray gin with elderflower syrup and a beer foam head. Oddly delicious.

From there, we went to a slightly less sleek establishment for another kind of tower--the kind with beer in it. We enjoyed a casual night of drinks, snacks, and good company before heading back for the night.

DAY 3:

Day three started with my two favorite things: coffee and Indian food.

After a leisurely morning, we made our way to an acclaimed coffee shop in the cafe district of KL called PULP. Founded by a Singaporean entrepreneur, this shop was serious about their coffee. Each cup is presented to the customer with details about the roast, origin of the beans, and information about the farmer. I also have to note that the shop itself is the former paper-cutting site of an art print company, so a massive, vintage paper cutter servers as the main focal point. The whole cafe is an experience, to say the least.

After fulfilling our caffeine needs, we walked down the road to another acclaimed KL spot, The Ganga Cafe, for a vegetarian Indian buffet. We filled our trays with every dish available (more than once) and stuffed ourselves silly. I topped off my feast with the best masala tea I have ever had.

For the rest of the afternoon, we explored the Petronas towers, which contain an art gallery, philharmonic theater, aquarium, and science center. At the foot of the towers lie a massive garden and pond, with fountains and a playground, as well as the Suria KLCC, a luxury shopping mall. For a much needed respite from the misty weather and a rest for our feet, we enjoyed a screening of “Murder on the Orient Express” in the Suria KLCC cinema (which I would highly recommend, by the way).

In the evening, we stumbled upon a middle-eastern restaurant, where we enjoyed a dinner of falafel, hummus, and pita. To top off the evening, we relaxed at a craft beer bar, featuring a variety of dark and light beers from all over Southeast Asia, Australia, and Europe. It was just what we needed before returning to the Chang-heavy beer world of Thailand.

DAY 4:

We packed up, hopped in a cab, and headed to the airport for our flight home.

AWAY WE GO (back) TO THAILAND.

[sophiewriteswordsfromfaraway]