#7 foot tall and radiates little guy energy

[frickerdoodledoo]

Weird fuckin dog I love him sm

How dare the folks behind Avantris force me to learn how to draw facial hair.

[sketchfanda]

Kirishima's Mystique:Jade Gammazon Woman in the Mood

Folks of Mustafu city streets were turning their heads and dropping their jaws, man and woman alike at the sight that walked among them and really why wouldn’t or shouldn’t they? Even in this day and age of Quirks where you'd likely have a distinct, unique appearance ranging from alien to full on furry, this woman was an absolute unit in how she stood out. 6 foot 7 of bombshell curves and powerful, sensually exquisite muscles with skin a rich emerald/jade green, this was none other than famed pro hero and attorney at law, Jennifer Walters, codenamed She-Hulk, cousin to one Bruce Banner, famed scientist in the field of Gamma Radiation and the equally famous Incredible Hulk. Currently in Japan on a trip for business related matters and well...pretty damn bored out of her mind.

Jennifer Walters, Hero Name: She-Hulk!! Quirk: Gamm-azon!! Like her walking rage factory cousin, Jen posses a super strength trasformation based quirk that'd been artificially kickstarted into activation by a transfusion of his blood. Making her capable of turning into a 7 foot plus statuesque stunner capable of bench pressing tanks and leaping tall buildings in a single bound especially when fuelled by adrenaline and or rage!

Now it wasn't to do with her lawyer work of course, never a dull moment with that, nor was it related to the heroics field. No Jen you see hadn't quite found anything during her stay that could get her adrenaline pumping and that, for this Gamma-zon, was a problem. Given the nature of her quirk, she often needed to relax by venting excess energy, often through intense physical activity such as combat, training....or sex. And thus far she hadn't seen action on any of those fronts that could really get her going.

That is until she paused as she beheld the immense and impressive architecture of Silverman's Pinnacle of Physique, a highly rated and recommended gym especially for those with physical type quirks. Jen couldn't help but smile, a twinkle in her jade eyes as she thought maybe the day might not be a total loss after all. A quick run to and back from her hotel and she was gracing the PoP with her presence, dressed and ready to pump some iron while dropping jaws. Wasting no time as she decided to start off with the weight training section, picking up the heaviest set of dumbbells she could get her hands.

It was no small surprise she was making heads turn and jaws drop, and why wouldn't she? Men and women alike just had a natural reaction, nevermind that she was THE She-Hulk of all people, as she sat on a bench and picked up a pair of the heaviest dumbbells she spotted and started on her reps. Her glorious jade biceps pumping and swelling with every curl as she focused on working herself up a sweat. Her attention briefly diverted as she found she wasn't alone on the bench, seeing a redhead dude with shark teeth a few feet from her also pumping iron.

She had certainly found him easy on the eyes and his workout gear ensured she got a more than decent glimpse at his own muscular form which rather suited his face, a nice blend between handsomely macho and angelface pretty. Wondering why he seemed familiar but unable to place a face or name as well as unaware this was local pro Eijiro Kirishima, aka the Chivalrous Hero Red Riot, who had somehow managed to go through his daily routine at Silverman's thus far at least without running into someone among the oh so fine female patrons and staff that might've wanted a little "private workout". Thankful that he wasn't making a clown out of himself fanboying over the fact that THE She-Hulk herself was here at the gym, right next to him, after all being a red blooded hot blooded guy, it'd be easier to ask him when had he NOT crushed on and fantasized about her? Knowing his bubblegum girlfriend duo, they'd be relentless with the teasing but to say nothing of the ideas they'd be planting in his head.

So instead the hard-headed redhead set about on his bicep curls as he picked up where left off on counting his reps, Jen doing much the same as her pace had a little more speed, subconsciously looking to catch up to and match up with him. At first it was all just looking quiet enough between the green and red duo as they found themselves seemingly in sync, performing the same workout routine but if one were to look closer then they would find it was a different story under the surface as time went on. Nobody was sure when and how exactly it happened but Kirishima and Jen began to turn their workout into a competition, each trying to outdo the other whether it was having higher numbers in push-ups to pull ups or press lifting the heaviest weights their bodies were capable of committing. Even some combination as the Herculean shark teethed himbo and the jade green Gamma-zon were caught up the momentum by their own sense of pride and determination.

Onlookers, eavesdroppers and passers-by among staff and members alike were in awe at this battle for physical fitness supremacy as the red and green powerhouses seemed to show no signs of stopping. As the old saying goes, who dares wins and right now who dared to not step down and admit defeat was the aim and name of the game as their bodies were sweating, adrenaline rushing as they did any and every exercise they could with any and every machine or set available on hand. One would think it was akin to witnessing a scene from a nature documentary involving an alpha male and female battling to assert dominance and mark their territory with the chivalrous hero stepping up against this invasive bombshell nut then things got well, how shall we say? A little more primal than anyone had thought or expected of course.

At one point, the brawny duo unintentionally seemed to reach an impasse, calling a temporary break as exhaustion from all their effort and exertion had finally caught up to them. Deciding to take a break and catch their breaths, replenish their energy with maybe a quick snack and some way to unwind as they briefly went their separate ways. Only for the She-Hulk to pause midstride n her way to the juice bar as she saw Kirishima was looking to use the steam room, her brain flicking the switch to a lightbulb for an idea. A wonderful, awful idea so awfully wonderful and awfully wonderful that it was could only have come from her libido as she subconsciously licked her lips sensually, thighs pressed and rubbing together as her muscles clenched and flex.

Call it spur of the moment brought about by the spirit of competition or just the fact that it'd been WAY TOO LONG since she lost got any but Jen had what she thought was just the trick to get herself the win over that, she had say, hunky sturdy piece of manmeat. Kirishima of course unaware of the pending trouble coming his way as he sat in the steam room, towel around his waist as his wild spikey man of red hair was in its relaxed natural state. Calm breaths escaping him as he sighed with contentment from the warmth and moisture soothing his aching joints and muscles and certainly thankful he hadn't popped a boner in his shorts which was a feat given who'd he been in physical proximity to. But hot damn what a woman, that was for sure, he had to wonder if there was something about ladies with exotic skin colours and thicc muscular bodies that just did something for him.

He wasn't lost in thought for long of course as he heard the door open and shut, signalling that he now had company with him but he felt suspicious as he heard the clicking of the lock being set. His vision waiting for the steam to clear only for his eyes to bug out comically and his jaw to drop as he found Jen now standing right in front of him, revealing herself as the perpetrator as she grinned a cheeky grin while holding the towel wrapped around her torso. The only layer of modesty keeping Kirishima from seeing a sight most men but especially Mineta would give an arm and leg but of course the towel's size ensured that he was still getting a fine view of the valley of her emerald green cleavage and a good chunk of her hips and thighs which could give Mirko a run for her money. And of course she fully well knew this as her green eyes snuck a glance at the towel around his waist showing signs of a rising tent about to be pitched.

Kirishima:*Trying in vain to keep his groin from getting a raging hard-on, no easy task when you had a six foot plus green skinned Amazon near naked in a steam room with you, mind.*"What the hell lady?! This isn't a co-ed room ya know!!"*Sure that was stating the obvious but can you blame him? Frankly it was pretty clear from the look on her face she damn well knew that, why else would she lock the door?! This woman clearly had ulterior motives and she was playing on them at this very moment!!*

Jen:*Cheeky bitch that she was, couldn't help but shoot a trolling sensual smile the hardheaded redhead's way as she casually flexed her arm. Taking delight in how his eyes were glued to her pumped, swelling bicep, he was definitely a man with taste, licking her lips at sensing the hard-on he struggled in vain to keep down.*"Hmm I'd say it's obvious handsome but sure I can spell it out for you. I'm here to settle our little competition and what better way than a little game of stamina chicken as I like to call it. You, me, right here and now are gonna fuck. Long, wild and hard as we can until one of us calls it quits and backs down first or exhaustion gets them. What do you say beefcake? you man enough?"*With that smart-ass quip of course, the jade green Giantess removed her towel, casting it aside along with her modesty as she fully exposed herself before Kirishima. Striking sultry combinations of pin-up and bodybuilder poses as she relished having his obvious erotic attention.*

Kirishima of course was naturally left stunned speechless at the sight of a nude She-hulk right before his very eyes, inches of emerald Amazonian muscle and skin from head to toe laid bare. It was pretty much tit for his self-control as it went bye-bye while his libido took the wheel, flipping a few switches that sent him into that primal state of mind Mina and Maya loved oh so very much. Simply standing up and letting his towel drop to the floor as it was now Jen's turn to be shocked and surprised, silently gasping as she felt her pussy begin to dribble down her thighs at the sight of his raging hard cock. Inches of pulsing length and girth primed and ready to go as the two powerhouses simply stared at one another's naked forms.....and then commenced with making THE FUCK!!!

What followed was a marathon of primal, passionate, animalistic and passionate mating, curious and confused staff and patrons alike puzzled and confused at the heavy thuds and other assorted noises coming from the locked steam room. Unaware that inside was none other than the Red riot and She-hulk going at it with enough lust and abandon to put porn stars to shame as their naked muscular forms glistened with sweat. The steam room's walls and ceilings filled with the echoes of their lewd skin slapping, ass clapping, pelvis pumping primal rhythm along with their moans and grunts of passion as they engaged in their latest position. Jen howling with delight as she found herself hoisted up in a full nelson position, Kirishima's guns hooked around her powerful legs as her own hands grasped his shoulders.

How she fucking loved it, who knew Japan had been housing a pornographic champion like this within their country as days to weeks of pent up desire were being satisfied, her green tits bouncing and her emerald booty jiggling with every thunderous impact of their loins. Her washboard abs swollen from the depth and fullness of his shaft as it hammered away at her womb, his balls slapping her clit as her pussy juices rained down to join their sweat puddle on the floor. Just when she thought this guy was ready to call it quits, he was still at it, not to mention he hadn't gone soft yet or pulled out once. The number of times he had cum so far counted on one hand with fingers left over while hers were too many to count and of course he hadn't pulled out once so far.

Hell they were still going at the same pace and intensity they had started off with, having commenced with a sloppy 69 before Jen found herself laying on the bench upside down, head hanging off the edge as she had gotten a full force facefucking. To say nothing of how delicious his man juice was, nevermind the thrilling sensation when he fucked her doggy style and in a mating press like some goddamn caveman. Of course his hands showed their appreciation for when she rode him cowgirl style as they gave one another as good as they got, their competition forgotten in the heat of sexual passion. Showing no signs of stopping as seconds continued to pass into minutes which would become hours.

Now as to how and why any of the staff had yet to intervene and stop this lewd misuse of their gym property, you could thank Silverman gym's horny nympho owner Mo Hani of course. The kinky Japanese-Brazilian stunned observing this spontaneous rut along with Mina and Maya who had come along not too long ago looking for their precious himbo. Delighted to find he had found and made a new sex friend as they enjoyed the show, making plans to meet Jen personally and ensure this wouldn't be a one time sort of thing. Hani meanwhile was wondering when to make a move herself, already getting wet from a potential future Sexercise session with the sturdy chivalrous stud.

For both Jen and Kirishima of course, they continued going at it for as long as possible. Unaware their heat of the moment would see to a very wild, lewd future for the both of them. And oh how sweet it is, you might even say? It's Plus Ultra....

[sugar-kisser]

Park Seonghwa « What Ifs (RW)

original warnings: none word count: 1855

Summer has slowly come to an end, and autumn is just beginning. The cool breeze is what everyone was begging for, but were not expecting this early. But none the less, college students still trudge around campus preparing for their midterms that are in the coming weeks. Just about all the floors in every library is filled except for the oldest library on campus that is said to be abandon, but you and Seonghwa found it the perfect place to study because not many student’s actually step foot near the old building.

So behind several shelves and almost lodged into a secret corner of the library on the second floor, Seonghwa and you sit at one of the small rectangular tables. You currently have three different biology books opened to random pages and sitting in half a circle around you and your not very completed study guide. Seonghwa on the other hand has a stack of four textbooks sitting next to his large history textbook that’s opened to the back so he can right down all the laws he needs to memorize for his history exam in two days. Some times he wished he started on things like this sooner, but you know, college is basically procrastination. Like if you think high school is bad just you wait. Plus he had a life he wanted to live and he didn’t need to attend every single class, so he skipped a few, and just a few. You probably wouldn’t catch him with bad grades so when he found the time to ditch for a day trip somewhere, he did.

You on the other hand never missed a day of class. You were afraid you would fall behind easily considering you’re not the fastest learner and it takes twice as long for you to completely understand something than the average student. But that also makes you a perfectionist because you want to be able to explain it with your eyes closed or even in a different language if you need to. The big achiever that nobody really liked to be friends with in high school, but you cut all ties with your previous life. You needed that fresh start, and you’re happy you did because you met Seonghwa on the first day of college in a level 300 class you accidentally signed up for instead of the level 100, but he managed to help you through it and you ended with a B.

You deeply sigh which easily distracts Seonghwa who puts his pencil down to look at you.

“You okay?” He asks with a small little grin on his face that you want to wipe off.

“No,” you whine, “this midterm is going to be the reason I fail college.” Seonghwa pulls his lips together to not only hide his smile but the oncoming laugh from your dramatic statement. You then drop your head onto the table with a loud thud that could probably be heard from the other side of the library. Seonghwa reaches out to help you back up while sneakily laughing.

“Laugh all you want I don’t care,” you tell him. Your dramatic mood changed to a more depressed tone, and Seonghwa practically feels the life and energy drained from you. All in a matter of a second which quickly concerns him.

“You’re going to be just fine on this test. You have nothing to worry about,” Seonghwa tells you as he rest his hand on your upper back, slightly running his fingers up and down for comfort.

“But I also don’t have your test to copy off of,” you counter which makes Seonghwa bite the inner parts of his cheeks to reframe himself from continuing to laugh as your despair is a little more important at the minute.

“Just take a five minute break, relax, and then get back to doing the study guide,” Seonghwa suggests, “you’ll feel better.” You lift your head up from the table and Seonghwa retracts his arm. You sigh again and look over the mess of your half of the table is. In the corner of your eye you watch as Seonghwa continues about his time writing down his needed information from his history book. You lean over and rest your head against his arm, only causing him to stop writing.

“Y/N,” Seonghwa coos to you, “I need to write.” You whine and move your head back over to your own workspace. You rest your head on top of your hands and close your eyes. A few moments of just not doing anything could be good right? You promise yourself just to count to one hundred before getting back to your assignments. But you don’t quite reach thirty before passing out.

Your light snores don’t go past Seonghwa as he every once in a while glances over at you to make sure you’re okay and not drooling over the libraries textbooks. He’s glad you’re finally getting some sleep. He’ll notice your apartment lights still on when he returns from his late shift hours just about every other day. Lately he’s wondered if you’ve even been sleeping considering the bags under your eyes are black and purple. You do try to hide them with your make-up but Seonghwa knows your little tricks and you can’t fool him. 

An hour and a half passes by and Seonghwa gets through most of all his work before deciding he wants to call it a night. He looks over you one last time deciding if he should wake you now or if he should let you sleep a little longer. You don’t quite look comfortable slouched over a table sleeping but you didn’t seem to mind it all that much. Seonghwa leans back in his chair and looks out the tall skinny ceiling to floor window. A smile blossoms on his face as a lightbulb blinks in his head. 

Seonghwa packs his bag and collects his textbooks setting them on a cart for a student librarian to place them back. He sets his bag on the floor after grabbing his wallet and hurries out of the library and across the street to your guys’ favorite coffee shop.

You eventually find yourself waking up when you no longer feel any other body near you radiating off even the smallest amount of heat. You push your head off your textbook and run your hand through your hair. You look over and notice that Seonghwa’s side of the table is spotless clean. His bag isn’t even anywhere in your sight. Had he left you?

You flip your phone around and check the time when the screen turns on- 7:46 PM. You feel your heart sink a little further. Didn’t Seonghwa have another late shift tonight? It starts in about 15 minutes. What sits heaviest on you overall is the fact that Seonghwa didn’t even wake you. Usually he would if you fall asleep during one of your study sessions, so what makes tonight different? 

With a shaky little sigh that breaks past your lips and small little droplets of water collecting at your waterline you push yourself up in your chair and look over your study guide and the textbooks in front of you. You at least need to complete the study guide tonight so you can study it for the next seven days straight to get the A you need on the test. You absentmindedly find answers to your study guide questions and write them down without retaining the actual information which will easily leave you lost later on when you come back to study it.

“Ah! You’re awake,” Seonghwa’s voice softly calls out. You whip your head to face the black haired boy approaching you, two large hot drinks in his hands.

“Seonghwa, I thought you left? Don’t you work tonight?” You ask, your voice rather quiet and hoarse.

“No, silly. I don’t work Thursday nights, remember?” Seonghwa lightly laughs, “besides why would I leave you alone in the library sleeping?” He sets the two cups down and that’s when he see’s the build up of water about to fall down your cheeks.

“Y/N,” Seonghwa’s face drops instantly and he wraps his arms around your shoulders and pulls you into a hug. You arms wrap around his waist and the side of your face buries itself into his mid-torso. “I’m sorry I didn’t leave a note. I didn’t think I’d be gone long, nor did I think you were going to wake up until I got back.” Seonghwa let’s go of you before crouching down, his butt almost brushing the floor.

“How about I walk you back to your apartment and we watch a movie? You’re way to stressed to be working on this study guide,” Seonghwa suggests, but you shake your head and blink back your tears.

“I can’t,” you whisper afraid anything above that you’ll have a mental breakdown, “I need to finish this tonight. My test is next week.”

“Which means you still have plenty of time to finish it and study it all,” Seonghwa counters with a small smile, trying to convince you to take a break.

“What if I forget about it?”

“You won’t.”

“What if I don’t complete it?”

“You will.”

“What if I fail the test.”

“Y/N,” Seonghwa laughs in almost disbelief at all your excuses which only causes you to feel more guilt.

“You’re going to be just fine if we take the rest of the night off,” Seonghwa explains as he brushes your hair out of your face, “and when you pass your test next week after not forgetting to complete your study guide I’ll take you out.” You feel everything in the world stop. Did he?

“I won’t know my grades until after the short break,” you tell him which causes him to laugh.

“Y/N you’re going to pass this. So I’m going to take you out,” Seonghwa more-so tells you rather than suggests, “on a date.” You feel heat rise to your cheeks and you reach up to lightly brush your fingers against your pink cheeks.

“Come on cutie,” Seonghwa pats your head before standing all the way back up, “let’s head back to your apartment, watch a movie, and eat food because I am starving.” You break into a small smile which makes Seonghwa instantly feel better that he’s lighten your mood. You put your papers back into your bag and before you can grab your coat Seonghwa does and helps you put it on.

“Thanks,” you squeak before picking up your three textbooks. Seonghwa grabs his backpack and your two hot chocolates, and the two of you head towards the exit. You place your books on the return cart next to Seonghwa’s and take your hot beverage from his hands. 

A cool breeze swipes right past the two of you as you head outside into the cold. You slightly shiver but that doesn’t stop Seonghwa from grabbing your hand and pulling it into his coat pocket along with his. You bite back a smile as the two of you head towards your apartment.

[ibangtanthings]

Baby

Chapter One

"He's the one in charge of all this. You think the rest of these assholes are scary....they're nothing compared to him, nothing!. Watch your back...no one here is going to help you. The only reason we're having this conversation right now is because I'm finally going to be released."

"How long have you been here?" You asked.

She was probably only a few years older. Tall, lean, with big breasts. Her thigh had a scar about the length of her finger but it was white in color, and barely visible. You took in everything about her appearance; the red hair, the tattoo on her foot, the piercings on her ears.

“Three years....” She choked back a sob. “Don't try to escape. If you get into a fight, fight to kill."

"Why me?" You leaned in closer and she retreated, standing up as the guards came in to pick her up.

Tears streamed down your cheeks as you repeated your question before they could take her away.

"Why me? Why am I here?" You whimpered.

"Because you look like an angel." She shrugged. "Stop crying. You'll have plenty of time for that later."

With that they dragged her out of sight and slammed the door shut. Hours passed as you sat in that disgusting room, shackled to the floor with your legs and wrists tied together painfully.

The concrete felt horrible against your skin. You only wore the bare minimum, an underwear and a bra. They took your clothes when they threw you into the car. Bugs wanted to crawl on your skin knowing you were the only living thing in that dark grey room.

No food, no sunlight, no water, no bathroom. You screamed at the small camera installed in one corner of the ceiling, but nothing happened. The small red dot just kept blinking back at you.

You knew it was a bad idea but there was no other way to get their attention...Whoever they were.

The more you thought about it, the more appealing the idea of offing yourself became. You didn’t want to be trafficked and abused. 

Laying down, you began to knock your head onto the ground, trying to make it seem like you were using a good amount of effort and crying to make it look more convincing.

It wasn't even a minute later before the lights turned on and three guys came in, pointing large guns at your face.

"Don't move!" One yelled out but the threat of the gun had already froze you in place.

"I have to use the bathroom. Please." You stammered, shivering with uncontrollably.

Your eyelids felt swollen from all the crying, and just then you realized that while the room was ice cold, the skin around your cheeks felt too warm. What felt worse was the bruise they left on your abdomen. That’s where they had punched you so hard, you lost your grounding and made it very easy for them to kidnap you. 

One of them picked you up and cursed, letting you fall again.

"She's bleeding." He said, disgusted.

You started to panic and realized he was looking down at your legs. You had started your period.

"Call him in. Call Namjoon in. Isolation, room one." He spoke into his ear.

They had to be military trained. The way they stood, the type of guns they had, the equipment. It looked like they had come straight out of a war.

Namjoon?

He came in dressed in a suit and tie, his shoes perfectly polished.

He must be the one she warned you about.

You didn't look him in the eyes, instead you shut yours. 

"What's wrong?" He asked them. His voice smooth yet strong.

"It's her...time of the month. She's been in isolation for two days. We rushed in when she was hurting herself."

He sighed but his voice was calm and smooth. "I told you to take care of her. Did you even feed her? I need her ready in two, do you understand?"

"Yes sir." They said.

"Call Jin, have him take her upstairs to get washed up. Label her first."

You opened your eyes immediately.

"Name sir?" One asked.

There was silence for a second. You felt his eyes all over your body. Finally you made eye contact and a chill went down your spine.

You saw it immediately, his power, his confidence and his attractiveness. He had an energy that made it clear he was the one in charge.

You could have sworn you saw the corners of his lips stifle a smile.

"Baby." He turned around and left.

"Jin to isolation room one. Namjoon's doll is here. I repeat, Baby is here."

You hid into a corner as the guards unlocked the shackles and the rope around your wrists which made a bright red mark on your skin.

They had no reason to tie you up like that in the first place. It wasn't like you could fight back. Not with guns pointed at you 24/7. Not with all these men who could overpower you so easily.

Jin appeared a few minutes later.

He too was dressed nicely. A white button up and black jeans. His light blonde hair parted perfectly.

He laid eyes on you and watched your every move, observing you like a hawk. Finally he looked over at the guard.

"Namjoon wants you to take care of her." the guard replied.

"She's the one..." His brows furrowed in concentration as he came closer but his expression softened when he leaned down in front of you. He noticed the blood but it didn't seem to bother him.

He sent a guard for a towel and they returned quickly.

"Hi Baby. I'm going to take care of you now." He gave you a polite smile. "Come with me."

His hand reached for yours and he easily pulled you up.

While the side of your abdomen hurt like hell, for some reason you refused to make any sound whatsoever. 

The halls were empty, not another body in sight. It looked like some kind of hotel. You tried your best to keep up with him even with the pain in your side. The floor was cold under your feet, like stepping into freezing waters. Shivers radiated down your spine.

The elevator doors opened and he let go of your hand, letting you get in first. He kept his eyes to himself and pressed the first floor button.

When the doors opened again he didn't bother to check if you were following. You didn’t have the guts to try to run and he knew. 

All the doors in this particular hallway had names on top of the door frames. Hoseok, Jimin, Taehyung, and more. 

He unlocked the door to his room and held your hand once more, leading you into his bathroom. From what you could see, he had a very large sized room.

The bathroom was covered in white tiles that contrasted against the dark teal walls. He turned on the water in the bathtub. A porcelain and gold tub that seemed more expensive than anything you have ever laid eyes on.

His fingers dipped into the water and once satisfied, he placed soap and towels nearby.

"Clean yourself up. Don't do anything stupid. I'll be right back." He closed the door behind him.

The water was between warm and hot, exactly how you wished it would be. After a few moments you climbed in and the dull ache in your side subdued just a little.

You were somewhat relieved that Jin wasn't as scary as Namjoon but Jin was one of them. He was obviously terrifying but he wasn’t as intimidating as Namjoon. The image of him alone made your breath hitch. The girl’s words echoed in your mind. Jin, Hoseok, Jimin, the others....they’re nothing compared to Namjoon. 

What did Jin mean you were the one? Like he was trying to hide his surprise.

"I'm coming in." He said with a gentle knock.

You tried to cover yourself up but you were already submerged in the soapy water so he wouldn't see anything anyways.

He left clothes and a box of tampons.

Unable to muster any words due to fear, you pointed to the shower head.

"Rotate the middle knob." He said leaving you alone again.

You turned the golden handle, flushed all the soapy water away and finished up quickly.

There sat matching bra and panties, a satin purple that was almost visible through the white shirt, maybe his shirt, and grey pajama shorts.

Walking out with towels and undergarments in hand, he took them from you and threw them out.

"You'll stay here until Namjoon changes his mind. I have to find you more clothes and then I’ll bring back food. You can make yourself comfortable." He said, taking your left hand and placing a small kiss on it.

It felt weird to have him be so nice. Especially considering how you were treated the past couple of days. When he made eye contact, it was like he was telling you that you could trust him. 

Sitting down on the chair, you waited and waited for him to come back. The lack of sleep and food had you weak and soon enough you dozed off, only to be awoken by him again. He was carrying you to his bed.

You sat upright once he laid you down. You wanted to gasp, or scream in pain but you were so scared. The pain in your side continued but the only response you could manage was letting your tears begin to well at your eyes. 

"I told you to make yourself comfortable. You can sleep on the bed if you want to." He pulled the sheets back.

You looked away from him, remaining silent.

His phone rang. You managed to prevent your tears from falling. 

It was hard to make out his conversation but a few moments later there was a knock on the door. He opened the door very slightly and retrieved a plastic bag.

"Here's some pain medication, for your cramps. You should eat. I brought this for you." He walked over to another bag you hadn't noticed before, on top of the dresser.

He brought out some plastic containers and opened them up, placing them on the bed.

Sushi.

He brought a piece to your mouth and you stared back at him.

His eyes were a warm brown. Like Namjoon, he was handsome. Admittedly, they didn't look like gangsters or criminals. They looked like social elites, or the corporate type, not criminals.

Jin's looks we're almost ethereal.

"Eat." He said.

"Why am I here?" You whispered.

He sighed. "You know it's disrespectful to refuse food from someone who's done you no harm."

"You're one of them." You said, not knowing what came over you. The goal was to never make them angry, yet it seems like you blew it already. 

"Yes. Now eat because you don't want me to force you." He was serious but calm, holding up the piece of fish in between his fingers.

It had been days since you had a morsel of food. Earlier you drank the water from the bathroom sink to soothe your thirst.

Hunger took over your fears and you opened your mouth slightly, letting him feed you. For some reason you couldn't stop staring at his face. His eyebrows, his nose, his cheeks.

After that first bite, you fed yourself and he made himself busy around the room. He took out the trash bag and left it outside the door.

You realized there there were two locks. He could choose to lock it from the inside or out, however he pleased.

"Lights go out at twelve. That's in couple of hours so you can go to sleep before I get back. For your sake don't attempt any sort of escape. It's not worth your life."

_______

You woke up to his eyes staring back at you. No emotion, just watching.

"He's coming. Get yourself ready." He remained in bed, hair messy and yet still  looking perfect.

He was already dressed though. Navy slacks and a blazer over his white shirt. The watch on his wrist an expensive silver.

Sure enough, all your necessities were provided. Even a curling iron and perfume.

It was weird how everything seemed impeccable. The white tiled floor shiny and clean as though it was untouched. The lights made the room bright and gave the place an almost hospital like atmosphere. 

The fact that they expected you to get all dolled up seemed weird too.

His room as well, perfectly kept. By the time you put on the T-shirt and jeans provided, the bed was already made. A picture perfect breakfast wheeled in on a silver platter and placed on the bed for you.

With the press of a button, two panels on the wall opened up and revealed a television hidden in the wall. Jin sat down on the floor. He began watching the news and eating.

There was nothing on about your disappearance. No one would have noticed anyways.

You stared at the pancakes and fruit on your platter and smelled the comforting scent of coffee just steaming from the mug.

Jin turned around to check if you were eating.

He could probably sense the constant anxiousness you felt and the fear that prevented you from even thinking about escaping.

After finishing your meal, you found the guts to approach him, taking a seat on the floor next to him.

He stared back at you, calm and expectant.

"Who is he?" You spoke, your voice small and you tried to swallow your nerves away.

He watched you for a second before answering. “You’re his, what more do you need to know?”

"Why me? What does he want from me?"

Jin tucked your hair behind your ear, "He doesn't want anything from you, he already has you."

“Why are you being nice to me? Why am I️ here? Why isn’t he watching me?”

“He’s busy.” He said, then he ordered you to stop asking questions.

You moved to the ottoman, trying to stay as still and as far away from him as possible.

But Namjoon came soon enough, bursting through the door with two others in tow. You retreated to the bed. It was as if Jin hadn't noticed his presence. He was un-phased, reading the newspaper as he sat in his chair and ignored everything going on.

"Get up." Namjoon said, grabbing your arm and hoisting you up. His elbow slightly knocked into your side and you yelped.

"What is it?" He asked, never making eye contact. He surveyed your movements and lifted up your shirt to reveal your body.

The bruising had gotten worse. The pain was just at its peak as the skin swelled.

"Jin." Namjoon turned his head towards him.

You looked over at Jin and he was already watching you.

"I didn't do it. I didn't go get her, it had to be Hoseok or Yoongi." Jin returned to his newspaper.

Namjoon touched the flesh and you tried to avoid his fingers, stepping back.

"Don't move." He said, neither annoyed or angered.

This time he didn't touch you. He just looked at the bruise for a moment

"Bring her to main floor when you're ready." He turned to Jin and left.

"That's it?" You wondered after the door closed, looking at Jin for some sort of explanation.

"Be patient. He's being patient. Why didn't you ask him why you're here? Why didn't you bombard him with questions too?" Jin walked towards you, his expression hardened but then a smirk began to form across his lips.

You stared back at him and remained silent.

"Does it hurt Baby?" He asked, revealing your bruise again.

Holding your breath, you placed your hand on his and he let go of your shirt, letting it fall back into place, watching your anxious eyes.

"You're lucky they didn't break your ribs, or worse. Hoseok has a thing for screams and Yoongi has a thing for fire." He tucked your hairs behind your ear. "Namjoon's giving you special treatment, we all are. I have a thing for tears and I'd love to see them fall down your skin." He trailed his finger down your cheek and followed with his eyes until he touched your lips. "But Namjoon said to take care of you so I will...For now at least."

You shivered and closed your eyes, felt his lips against your forehead, delicate and gentle.

The house fire...

You ran out and felt something hit you. It wasn’t debris, it was Yoongi trying to injure you? Or was it Hoseok as he mentioned? There was too much smoke to see anything.

“For now, I’ll take care of you as if you were mine. I wish you were.” He smiled.

He left you alone after that. He was getting ready to take you to the main floor.

Whatever that meant...

________________

The main floor had one grand ballroom like hall, in which a large sundial was painted on the floor. A chandelier about the size of a car, was hanging directly above. It was huge and it glittered almost like rainfall.

Maybe you were in a mansion or a hotel? Everything you’ve seen so far signified that these guys were loaded. 

For now Jin was...safe...if you could even allow yourself to feel that way around him. He hadn’t hurt you...yet.

All eyes fell on you, the silence deafening.

There were about 5 other guys there besides Namjoon. Girls were lined up against the wall behind them, watching you and giving each other glances.

Grabbing hold of Jin's arm you hid behind him and someone with orange hair smiled at your direction.

Jin didn't seem to mind. He just kept walking towards Namjoon casually.

The girls were made up in lipstick and perfect eyeliner, tight clothes that revealed almost everything, and jewels that looked cheap compared to what the guys had on. Some of the girls had perfect tans and some had porcelain skin.

With just a glance they were sizing you up. There had to have been at least ten.

Namjoon rubbed his chin, looking at you and holding your gaze. For the first time ever you felt like he was really looking at you. He was taking in ever part of your body.

"Everyone this is Baby." Namjoon said, taking a few steps forward.

Jin stepped away and your weak hand slipped from his arm. Namjoon grabbed your face gently in his hands and kissed you.

You were so surprised but that didn’t last long.

"No! You can't do this!" One of the girls wailed running towards you, pushing you out of his grasp and smacking your face with all her strength.

You gasped and held your cheek, in shock and confused as hell. Jin didn't move at all. It was Namjoon who grabbed her before she could hit you again, flinging her to the ground.

His move made you flinch in fear, and the girl was on the ground in an instant, practically immobile.

"Ohh shit!" One of guys chuckled, and the rest smiled.

"Of course I can.” Namjoon said. “You thought I wasn't going to find out? I know you were the one who snitched on Rosy. You put one of my girls into the system and for what? In hopes of being my favorite? I'm not going to put you into prison with her, that's too easy. You're going to stay here and be the bitch you were always meant to be. Don't even think about laying another hand on Baby, because she owns you now. The moment she says the word I'll kill you." He kicked her in the side and she rolled onto her back, spitting up blood.

The other girls looked away, some looked like they were on the verge of tears. You couldn't watch either.

"About time someone reminded you where you came from Angel." One of the guys spit on her and walked out. The rest of the crowd followed until only you, Namjoon and Jin remained.

You watched Angel twitch with pain and whimper.

"Get her out." Namjoon said to Jin, nodding towards the doors.

Without a word Jin literally dragged her out of the room, pulling her by the arm.

"Let me see." Namjoon tried to move your hand away from your cheek but you stepped back, watching his every move, deathly afraid.

"Come here." He growled, grabbing your arms and roughly pulling you against him, his strength keeping you in place. "When I say something, you listen. I won't ask you again."

You stared at him, wide eyed and knees weak.

"W-Why am I here? Who are you?" You managed to stammer out, tears finally making their way down your hot cheek.

"You know who I am. You're here because you're mine now Baby."

You trembled in his arms and shook your head. "What do you want from me?"

"Nothing....well, you're loyalty, your trust. Listen to me very carefully Baby." He brought his hands to your waist carefully and kissed your cheek. "The moment I laid eyes on you, I saw how beautiful you are. I couldn’t stop thinking about you. You’re breathtaking. You’re going to be a star Baby, the star of the show."

He placed a few kisses on your neck, and you tried to push him away, tears streaming down your face.

You never agreed to this. You were more afraid than ever. What did he even mean?

He pulled away, but his hand found yours just as Jin came back through the door.

Namjoon held your hand out towards him.

"She looks so cute when she cries doesn't she?" Jin smiled at him and took your hand.

"Take care of her. Don't let the other girls touch her, although, I doubt they will now.” Namjoon ordered.

"Of course." Jin replied, leading you back to his room.

He thought it was cute when you cried?

As soon as you entered his room again, you ran straight into the bathroom and began sobbing.

What kind of messed up stuff was Namjoon talking about?

What all those girls were for?

"Baby." Jin called, tapping on the bathroom door.

"That's not my name! My name is Y/N!" You yelled back, sitting down on the white tile floor and feeling the pain in your side more than ever.

He walked in but he didn't come near.

He liked watching you cry. He really did have a thing for tears. It was sadistic and cruel.

You hid your face and he sat down in front of you.

"He'll hurt you if you say that around him. There is no Y/N anymore." He said moving your hands away from your face.

They way he said it made you lose your senses. Nothing felt real anymore. You felt like he was telling nothing but the truth.

There was no Y/N, she didn’t exist. Is that what they wanted you to believe? How?

Looking around, nothing had changed. Everything was shiny and reflecting back too much light. Everything was too clean and you were too afraid to touch anything. It was a bathroom, not a museum. 

The pain in your side a constant reminder that you weren't dreaming.

If you didn't exist anymore then no one would come looking. They made everyone think you were dead, didn’t they?

Who would come looking if you were already dead? Not your friends, not your family.

You were stuck here forever and you still didn't know why. The way Namjoon touched you made you angry. You didn’t own yourself anymore. 

"Come here Baby." Jin pulled you into him. You were surprised at first but you cried into his shoulder anyways. He felt.....safe. Who else was going to comfort you? When would be the next time anyone would comfort you?

"No ones going to hurt you Baby. If you listen to us, everything's going to be fine. I kind of like you Baby, I'm sure the other guys will too" He stroked your head over and over again as you cried.

After some time had passed, you didn't know how much time, Jin nudged you carefully and asked if you were asleep.

You were wide awake, thinking about nothing and just daydreaming about the events that had occurred since you were captured. You replayed the layout of the floors repeatedly in your mind.

He pulled you away from him and looked at your blank expression. When his eyes met yours, you blinked back into reality.

He was safe, you reminded yourself.

"It hurts." You told him pitifully.

Even his arm holding you gently was painful, but you didn't say anything until now. It started to hurt with every breath.

"Is it hard to breathe now?" He touched your side. You winced and pulled away but you didn't cry, knowing he would enjoy it.

"Let me wrap your body. It should be fine in a few days. It's healing already." He picked you up onto your feet and you stifled a groan as you walked back into the bedroom.

You sat on the bed as he found a roll of bandages.

"Don't move Baby. I have no intention of hurting you but I need you to trust me for a moment. Okay?" He asked.

You nodded and he kissed your cheek with a gentleness that scared you.

Without another word he ripped your shirt apart and you kept your arms raised a bit even though it hurt.

He rolled the bandage tightly around your rib cage. When he was done he laid you gently onto your back and tucked you into bed.

“I’ll take care of you Y/N.” He said. ______________

You woke up on a table, a light above your head and something heavy covering your body.

"Two days max. I want her ready by next week. I can't stand to look at Angel's performance anymore. I want to waste her already but that's Baby's decision." Namjoon's voice came from behind.

The light moved away and you could see them clearly now.

"Jimin's been asking about her. He's...curious." Jin said.

"You all are." Namjoon sighed.

"She's awake." Jin looked down at you and you reached for his hand at his side.

He helped you sit up and you realized you were still shirtless.

"Your rib was cracked slightly. Remember to breathe properly even if it hurts. I already punished him for being reckless." Namjoon said, stroking your head.

"Him?" You asked wearily.

"Do you want to see him? He's going to take care of you next." Namjoon said.

"Next?" You repeated, looking down and holding your head for a moment.

He tilted your chin up and forced you to look at him.

"Has Jin been taking care of you Baby?" He pet your head.

"My name is Y/N." You whispered angrily, looking right back at his eyes.

With that he pushed your head away from him and looked at Jin. "Tell Yoongi he can do what he wants, one day max."

Jin squeezed your hand angrily, perhaps without realizing. "He'll hurt her even more. You said you need her ready for next week."

"I know what I said, did you hear what I just said?" He hissed. "Is she yours or mine?"

"I understand." Jin sighed, grabbing a shirt from a nearby stool. He helped you put it on and when he held onto your hand, you gripped it with all your strength, not once looking back at Namjoon.

"Fucking Yoongi." Jin muttered under his breath over and over again on the way back to his room.

He was angry now, seemingly unpredictable and totally different than his usual collected self.

"I want to stay here with you." You blurted out as soon as you were alone with him and the was door shut.

"Well fuck, you just ruined that didn’t you? You're not mine. You’re Namjoon's doll. He's the only one who can make decisions regarding you. I told you there is no Y/N anymore, now you've made him upset and Yoongi's going to take his revenge on you."

"Revenge? I didn't do anything to him. What does Namjoon's doll even mean?" You began to panic.

"Yoongi was the one who went to go get you. He was the one that hurt you, the reason why you're injured. Namjoon has him chained up in the cellar. It's 115° in that room and he's gotten no sleep for 48 hours so far. His punishment will be over today and then you'll be sent to his room. That's Namjoon's orders. You're his doll, his property now. Your body, your soul, it belongs to him."

"Why does he want me?"

"He loves you."

You almost laughed. "Then why am I not in his room? This makes no sense. He doesn't even know me."

"He wants to break you. Your mind. You'll loose yourself and give yourself to him, all the dolls do. He knows who you are."

"I'll never become whatever it is that he wants me to become."

"You will. You'll give yourself to him and you'll become Baby. You already feel something between us so it's only a matter of time before you break. Most girls only do one room before they submit."

"You don't hurt me that's all." You said, denying any sort of attachment. You knew about Stockholm Syndrome and there was no way you would fall into that mindset. "Am I going to everyone's room?”

"Yes. Then you'll be his forever. Whether we like it or not."

"Why wouldn't you guys like it?" You asked.

He looked away and didn’t answer.

"I'm not some toy. Don't you see this is wrong? Please, tell me how to get out of here."

"Stop talking Baby. I'm not usually this nice so don't push it. There's no point in escape. This is your life now."

"Don't let Yoongi hurt me please." You begged him.

"I can't do anything for you anymore. You didn't listen. If I miss you enough, I'll try to find you later."

"Jin."

He brought his lips to yours.

You froze and felt too stunned to move again.

"I said be quiet. You need to listen. The rest of us aren't so nice or patient. I like you Baby and my kindness is a gift. Don't take it for granted. Once your with him, you might as well forget me.”

"I'm scared." You whimpered, and your breaths began to quicken as your tears returned. This is what he liked right? Tears.

“Yoongi won’t kill you, he knows Namjoon wants you alive." He said, tucking you into bed.

"My name is Y/N." You cried over and over again. You felt like you had lost your mind already. What was wrong with them?

He shook his head and you kept repeating it for hours, until finally you heard the words change.

"My name is Baby."

"You looks so beautiful when you cry Baby." He said tenderly, holding you close and making sure you were facing him that so he could watch you fall asleep crying.

"My name is Baby."

"Shh...get some rest. After Yoongi, you'll know who you belong to." He said with a kiss to your forehead.

_______

[iameveryonesmom]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2019

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

  5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

    Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

    Please share my content!

[mikepepi]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2019

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

  5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

    Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

    Please share my content!

[indierecords]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2020

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

Please share my content!

[axolotlottie]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2020

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

Please share my content!

[thingyoungbright]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2019

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

  5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

    Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

    Please share my content!

[l4na-banana]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2018

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

  5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

    Please share my content!

[daniel-adamsphotography]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2020

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

Please share my content!

[save-the-dream]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2019

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

  5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

    Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

    Please share my content!

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Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2020

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

Please share my content!

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Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://reviewshopbuy.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2020

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

Please share my content!

[0n0s3ndai]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2019

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

  5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

    Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

    Please share my content!

[iameveryonesmom]

Best Led Grow Lights

New Post has been published on http://comm-fab.com/best-led-grow-lights/

Best Led Grow Lights

The Best Led Grow Lights of 2020

Choosing the LED grow light today is really tough so we decided to educate you guys .Please scroll down past the reviews for insight on Led Grow Lights and how to pick them.

1. G8LED 900 Watt MEGA LED

2. California Light Works Solar Storm 880w LED Grow Light UVB

3. Lush Lighting Vegetator 2x LED Grow Light

4. LED MOTHERSHIP – 540W Enhanced Spectrum LED Grow Lights

5. Advanced Platinum Series P600 600w 12-band LED Grow Light – DUAL VEG/FLOWER FULL SPECTRUM

6. Advanced Platinum Series P450 450w 12-band LED Grow Light

7. VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200

8. Advanced Platinum Series P150 150w

Tutorial

We’re going to give you a little tutorial here and show you all the details on how to pick the right light for you in this industry and are very difficult because typically if you go to pick out a light bulb saying HBS it’s a 600 watt HBS and it’ll actually run more watts so it’ll be like 650 watts or 670 watts.  In the LED grow light industry unfortunately it’s not like that most companies will name their light with a much higher number let’s say at K 600 and the light only pulled 200 watts so you might think you’re getting a 600 watt light where 600 watt equivalent and it really has nothing to do with that so you really need to be careful with names don’t get caught up in those and really focus on the running wattage at advance.

What’s nice is we really try to focus on getting really close to that so if it’s a 350 watt light we name it a 350 if it’s a hundred watt light we’ll name it a hundred . A hundred watt for example pulls 93 watts so we try to get as close to that as we can so it’s not deceptive to you,  there’s a couple different key things that you guys need to understand when it comes to watts one is led watts.

A lot of times in this industry what you have is you have people that will take an LED and they’ll name it say a 5 watt LED or a 3 watt LED just because it’s called that doesn’t mean it actually is that , there’s a lot of 5 watt LEDs on the market that are really only pulling about 2 watts and we really they look to be at 3 watts.

LEDs just being over driven so you have to disregard LED Watts because if I say I’m running a 5 watt LED and I have a hundred of them in there and I call it five hundred LED watts well if the light only pulls 150 watts from the wall you have a 150 watt light you don’t have a 500 watt light so disregard LED watts and just focus on what the light is actually running from the wall.

Now the other thing about led wattage just to touch on this while we’re here is you really need to watch out for these high-powered chips that are being called that but being driven at such a low wattage so the next thing to cover is watt per foot . Okay in any horticultural space grow space when you’re using grow lights you’re going to have a watt per foot ratio that you’re looking for with HID – it’s always been 50 watts per foot that’s industry standard with LED , so you’re looking usually at about half of that and what we recommend is 30 watts to 35 watts per foot for LEDs .

So that’s a key indicators watts per foot HID you’re looking at 50 with LED you’re going to be looking at around 30 to 35 , the big thing you start with first is watts per foot to get to the total wattage that you need for the space .

So let’s just use this example , we have a three foot by three foot space and we need 30 plus watts per foot so it’s 270 watts , let’s round up to 300 watts so first you’re going to be out there looking for a 300 or more watt LED to cover this space and every light is either going to not have a secondary optic or it’s going to have a secondary obtic,  there’s a myth in the industry or in this market that secondary optics reduce the light output and the troubling thing is is it’s both true and false,  it’s true because any kind of material put over an LED reduces the total light output- that’s true but the difference is if you take a secondary optic like a TIR that we use in and it’s built for that led it actually is a compounded effect is a much much higher effect to your plants over the space that you’re actually covering so if you’re coming on three foot by three foot space and you normally let’s say you had no optic ,okay it’s just the bare LED, the LED if it was pointing at this space is going to be putting out an angle like that so you’re going to lose all of this side light it’s you know you think it’s being reflected you think it’s going to the walls it’s really not doing your plants any good you need to get the light from this led straight to the plant canopy and the shortest distance possible if you try to go over here and reflect back to the plants you’re going to lose a huge amount of light right there in the reflection and the distance traveled just traveling that distance is going to lose light so this is wasted light for the most part. Like a fire hose or a garden nozzle if you add a secondary optic okay now what you’re doing is just like turning that nozzle you’re focusing that energy through that led to apply to exactly the canopy space that you want in the shortest distance to your plants so what you might end up with a total light output of say a hundred units when you add the seminary optic,  yes you are to about nine units but in here if you have no optic you might have four hundred par by adding the secondary optic you could go to 600 plus par easily doubling sometimes easily doubling the power output inside of this canopy space so that’s that’s the way to look at optics.

You want to really look for a secondary optic of 90 degrees be careful of sixty degree or less some companies will take a one watt LED and they’ll put like a 45 degree optic on , they’re really focused but that the problem is that’s like that so what you end up with is this is 300 Watts being driven through this 45 or a 60 and the problem is you end up with a core coverage is so tight and small you’re not actually efficiently covering the entire space so 90 is perfect because at 90 degrees if you’re a foot and a half or two feet away from the plant then that means you’re getting a four foot coverage. If you’re a foot and a half away you’re getting a three foot coverage it’s double the distance is double for the coverage with a 90 degree optic so it’s a perfect blend so at advanced that’s that’s exactly why we use a secondary optic.

We’ve tested dozens and dozens of secondary optics they’re not all the same we’ve split tested like crazy to get the exact TIR optic that will give you a good even coverage across a 90 degree spread and then with age we’ve even added a reflector around the outside of it to really focus all wasted energy because you don’t want any of this. This is just wasted and the lights that are out there in the market with no optic you’re basically spreading this light all along your walls and everything and not really focusing on energy directly towards your plant canopy.

The other thing is you miss out on penetration so if your plant canopy is three foot tall because you’re sending light in all directions you’re not sending it straight down into that plant canopy you’re losing your penetration as well so that’s coverage that kind of talks about optics as well and that should help you to pick the right light.

Watt is a very key indicator that you guys need to pay attention to a lot of companies , it will give you the par the problem is that the center par so if you take a light any given light source you measure straight directly down underneath it this is the center par so they’ll say I have two thousand par some crazy number at this center point the problem is I could get anyone could get this number to two or three thousand par they wanted to you could put a forty five-degree optic and have three or four or five hundred watches comes through down here and cover a one foot by one foot space and have crazy par numbers.

What you need to look for is the total par per watt and then you also ideally would want to look for over you know a space so if you have a ninety degree optic you’re going to cover this entire space. What we do to measure part par watt is we actually take data points from the center of actually a four by four grid including the center we total those which we call mass par then we divide that by the running Watts not not with the lights called not the name not what it says on them on the light we actually run it from the wall so we’ll use the meter the running Watts and we divide the total part by the running Watts and that gives us the par per one if you look at any of our data sheets you can see the part per watt easily for any one of our lights and then we also measure and test a lot of other lights.

We’re constantly testing all kinds of lights for you guys so you can see . For example in HP s is very low power per watt maybe six or seven par per watt that’s because it’s very inefficient it produces a ton of infrared that you don’t even know it’s really producing it’s a strong light but it’s not very efficient that’s why the par 4 watts extremely loved the spectrum is absolutely critical. We test dozens and dozens of contenders against our lights to determine what the right spectrum is -you first have to determine what type of plant you’re growing so if you have a vegetative cycle or a vegetative plant you want mostly blue spectrum, okay you still want it to be somewhat full but a blue is the most important if you’re using flowering or fruiting heavy flowering fruiting plants you want a lot of red and you need a lot of par so that’s the second thing people talk about it’s par ,par is just simply a measure with a spectrometer of the total amount of radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers,  just keep in mind that in a green range plants aren’t going to absorb as efficiently they will absorb it’s just not as efficient so you want to look for the blue and the red and you want to look for the maximum amount of par per watt and par inside of that range.

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