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The attention to men's fashion in the iconic museum is not from today. In 2003, "Men in Skirts" became the first exhibition entirely focused on the man's wardrobe, but the theme of the time comes with a twist. After the Black Lives Matter movement in 2020, the Costume Institute acquired about 150 pieces of clothing created by non-white designers, some of which will be exhibited in the new exhibition.

Following the historical tradition of the museum, items from the 18th and 19th centuries will also be present, alongside suits from the 1940s and recent designs created by Pharrell Williams and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton.

The main focus of the exhibition will revolve around the discussion of the essence of black dandism: more than the construction of an identity, it is a concept that has crossed enslaved and culturally segregated generations. In all, there will be 12 sections in the museum dedicated to each of the characteristics of black dandism described in Zora Neale Hurston's 1934 essay, "The Characteristics of Negro Expression". In addition to clothes and accessories, paintings, photographs and excerpts from films will also be part of the show.