#a persimmon loquat and cherry tree

[cabbagegunk]

Apples Apricot Banana Blackberry Blueberry Boysenberry Canary Melon Cantaloupe Casaba Melon Cherimoya Cherry Christmas Melon Clementine Cranberry Crenshaw Melon

Currants Dates (tree dried only) Dragon Fruit Durian (purchase cut) Figs Gooseberry Grapes Grapefruit Guava Honeydew Melon Horned Melon Jack Fruit Jujube Kiwi Kumquat

Lemon Lime Loganberry Longan Loquat Lychee Mandarin Mango Mangosteen Mamoncillo Minneola Musk Melon Nance Nectarine Orange

Blood Orange Papaya Passion Fruit Peach Pear Persimmon Pineapple Plum Pomegranate Prickly (cactus) Pear Pommelo Pulasan Rambutan Raspberries Satsuma

Soursop Star Fruit (Carambola) Strawberry Tamarillo Tangelo Tangerine Ugli fruit Watermelon

this list of alphabetized common fruits has been sitting in my inbox for like a week. happy pride month anon???

[rjalker]

K gonna go check on the pawpaws quick to see if tree #3 is flowering yet but here's the list of plants so far for this guide, mostly once I've actually found growing in the wild on public land, or in the case of loquats, fruiting palms, and Japanese persimmons, planted so often and then no one gives a shit about the fruit. They literally just let it rot on the ground.

American Beautyberry

American Elderberry

Black Cherry

Blackberries and Raspberries

Blueberries

Chestnuts

Common Persimmon

Fruiting Palms

Graybark Grapes

Hackberries

Hickories

Japanese Persimmon

Loquat

Mock Strawberries

Mulberries

Muscadine Grapes

Purple Passionflower

Small-flower Pawpaws

Strawberries

Taro

Wild Potato Vine

Yellow Passionflower

[zoey-angel]

"Why's everyone fighting over that tiny piece of land, anyway?"

Setting aside the religious aspects, cultural significace, core beliefs, antisemitism and landback as a concept, here is a list of fruit currently in my house (in Israel), showing just what you can find here in august:

(keep in mind my family is middle-upper class, I'm an unemployed student with elderly parents on a pension)

15 mangos.

2 pineapples.

6 apples, 3 red 3 green.

No watermelon since they didn't look that good last time we went shopping.

1 fig.

10 peaches, bought them in a batch. I like them better than nectarines but both are great.

4 plums.

2 boxes of cherry tomatoes.

9 sabress or as you call them "prickly pears".

1kg sable grapes (the black kind, after trying different types we concluded they're sweeter).

2 boxes of blueberries.

1 box of raspberries.

1 box of dates.

Half a lemon.

2 and a half avocados.

No lychee, we finished the box yesterday... I prefer longan anyway and there's a tree growing nearby I can pick those from.

No cherries, passionfruit, loquat or apricots because they went out of season this month...

No bananas because they're high carb apparently.

No kiwis or pears because neither of us like those, no carambolas or papayas since only mom likes them...

That's it for fruit. But you know what? Every single thing I mentioned here is local produce. And those are only fruit! Here in this tiny place farmers grow wheat, corn and sorghum, raise livestock- we buy eggs from our neighbor, who manages a chicken coop. Not to mention, the wide variety of veggies, local nuts like almonds and pecans. Heck, Israelites have been tending to olive orchards on this land for over 7000 years!

There's a reason why this land has been regarded as the land of milk and honey, it's lovely. Then again, before 1948, much of the land now used for farming was instead a malaria ridden wetland. Early zionists planted trees and dug tunnels to the ocean to dry out the large swamps, effectively terraforming the land into what it is today. In the south, they insisted to enrich the dry dessert lands of the negev, built a water piping system and planted crops where before it, it didn't seem likely for anything to grow. This land is precious and working it is rewording. It's our home and we get to devote ourselves to it, grow so many delicious fruits and eat them too.

Next month we'll have guavas, melons and persimmons, I'm already excited!

[bethestaryouareradio]

Plant Poetry

“Once the relation between poetry and the soil is established in the mind, all growing things are endowed with more than material beauty.”  Elizabeth Lawrence

Have you ever wandered your garden and realized the growing landscape is poetry in motion? As you’ve read in my recent columns, I have been occupied with aggressive weeding on my land these past several months. Under the masses of foxtails, thistles, spurge, bindweed, black medic, pelargonium robertianum, hemlock, and wild grasses, fields of flowers awaited the sunshine. With only three garden rooms left in my quest to purge the pernicious invaders, my first round of weeding is almost at an end.

The plant poetry has begun. My orchard meadow is glorious with swaths of wildflowers, including golden poppies, sprouted seeds of calendula, nigella, seafoam statice, nasturtiums, blooming cornflowers, iris, geranium, roses, chamomile, lilies, acanthus, strawberry, bougainvillea, and more. My orchard is brimming with fruit trees that will ripen throughout the season. Apricots, cherries, peaches, plums, prunes, mulberries, apples, Asian Pears, elderberries, persimmons, pomegranates, guavas, loquats, figs, and vines of grapes provide edible delights for our household and the wildlife who frequent the meadow. I recently planted a banana tree and two avocadoes, keeping my fingers crossed that they will bear fruit in a few years. Footsteps away is my citrus grove with tangerines, oranges, tangelos, lemons, and cumquats. The hillside is a vibrant, pollinator paradise. 

Bees and bumblebees especially favor the blue nigella, buzzing from blossom to blossom, savoring the sweet nectar. Butterflies and birds flutter and fly through this heavenly fragrant celebration of color, scale, and texture. 

When I view photos from a month ago when this area was blanketed in suffocating weeds, I am grateful for the miracle of nature, this poetic painting abundant with stunning flowers.

The paths are filled with gravel and lined with recycled redwood planks rescued from a renewed deck, both a clever, sustainable, and frugal option. Like the balance of a colorful poem, this design is wild, yet civilized, celebrating the quirks of nature.

Another poetic surprise in my garden this week was the blooming of my cordyline, also known as the Ti plant. One day when I went out for my daily garden walk, iridescent shoots had sprung out of the top of this good-luck tree, glittering in the morning sun. It appears to change hues throughout the day and is impressive. 

I also harvested the first of my zucchini. This was exciting because last summer my plants were eaten by critters. This season I expect to enjoy plenty. 

Cascading over the raised bed in my vegetable garden, edible and tangy nasturtium in red, yellow, and orange shades reminds me of my Nonna’s garden.  Not to be outdone, my Bonica rose bush drapes over the mailbox with voluminous baby pink blooms flanked by fluorescent fuchsia corn flags creating a mesmerizing entrance.  

Each day promises something new and exciting. Plant poetry is indeed endowed with more than material beauty.

Cynthia Brian’s Goddess Gardener Guide for June

ü  It is time to remove the dried leaves from daffodils, naked ladies, woodland hyacinths, freesias, and other spring-blooming bulbs. A quick tug of the dried leaves is all you need to do. If you must pull hard, the leaves are not ready to be removed. I know they look unsightly in your garden, but if you remove the leaves before they have had the chance to provide nutrients to the bulb you won’t have any flowers next spring. Hang in there. You’ll thank me in a year!

ü  Apply snail bait to plants susceptible to snail and slug damage. They come out of hiding at night to nibble your new shoots and because of the rains are an abundant nuisance.

ü  Monitor water needs for your landscape. Water infrequently but deeply. Containers lose moisture more quickly and will need additional attention.

ü  Clean and arrange patio furniture, pads, and outdoor gear. With summer on the horizon, get prepared to party.

ü  Plant summer-blooming bulbs and scatter seeds to surprise you with their brilliance.

ü  If you haven’t finished cutting tall grass, clearing debris, maintaining a fuel break, and preparing for wildfires, do it this week. Be vigilant and a good neighbor!

ü  Deadhead rose blossoms as they fade to keep your bushes healthy and blooming until the end of the year. I have over 200 rose bushes and deadheading is a daily chore, albeit one that yields huge rewards. Wear protective gloves!

ü  Create a vibrant garden masterpiece in your backyard with prolonged performance perennials and annuals available at your favorite nursery.

ü  Celebrate graduations, birthdays, and more with a kaleidoscope of plant poetry.

For more gardening advice for all seasons, check out Growing with the Goddess Gardenerat https://www.CynthiaBrian.com/books. Raised in the vineyards of Napa County, Cynthia Brian is a New York Times best-selling author, actor, radio personality, speaker, media and writing coach as well as the Founder and Executive Director of Be the Star You Are!® 501 c3 which was just honored as the 2024 Nonprofit of the Year by the Moraga Chamber of Commerce. Tune into Cynthia’s StarStyle® Radio Broadcast at www.StarStyleRadio.com. 

Her newest children’s picture book, Books in the Barnyard: Oh Deer!, from the series, Stella Bella’s Barnyard Adventures is available for discounted pre-sales at https://www.CynthiaBrian.com/online-store. Hire Cynthia for writing projects, garden consults, and inspirational lectures. Cynthia@GoddessGardener.com  

StarStyle® Empowerment is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.

[weaselle]

GYM

I’ve been working out at the gym. For the first since never. Oh sure, I did like a couple weeks one time, and I think a couple weeks another time, but I hated every minute and never went back.

This time is different. I love it?

So, I grew up playing all the sports and also working in our backyard which is basically a big field of growing things (seriously, when I was a kid we had a full veggie garden, a full herb garden, plus lemons, limes, grapefruit, figs, cherries, guavas, almonds, walnuts, plumbs, peaches, strawberries, grapes, kiwis, persimmons, pluots, kumquats, loquats, apples, and I’m sure I’m forgetting a bunch) PLUS I was always helping with building and landscaping and remodeling projects. One summer I shoveled gravel into a wheelbarrow for several hours every day. A few times we had to cut down trees and remove stumps, and if you’ve never had to do stump removal I envy you greatly.

The point is, I was a very fit young person, and it stayed with me through my twenties and thirties. I was always very active, walked everywhere, to work, the store, etc, and always volunteered to do any heavy lifting -- helping my friends move into a new house or putting away the restaurant produce etc. Plus I did a lot of like, active hobbies, like juggling and swing dancing and stuff. My theory was literally “if I work hard enough at life, I can save the money I’d spend on a gym membership”

But I’m semi-homeless and I got a gym membership to access their showers (and the sauna and hot tub, omg) and recently I started also (weirdly) using it as a gym. To work out, like a normal person or whatever.

And I really like it, actually. 

[petermoonblog-blog]

Feed with "fall" or "winterizing" formula

LAWN MAINTENANCE: Feed with "fall" or "winterizing" formula. Last chance to tackle weeds like bermuda and nutsedge, which go dormant in winter. Not sure how much to water this month? Download the free UC publication "Lawn Watering Guide for California". This excellent guide solves the mystery of when to water and how much to apply. Fall is also a great time to aerate. According to Sunset.com (web access for AOL users and Sunset subscribers only), if you can't easily push a screwdriver into your turf up to its handle, it's time to aerate. If overseeding is necessary, be sure to use grass seed that matches your lawn. LAWN CARE INFO: Want to know what type of lawn you have and how to maintain it? Want to put in a new lawn or renovate an old one? Need lawn pest info? The new UC Guide to Healthy Lawns is an excellent resource.

SHADE TREES: Lightly trim trees where necessary. Avoid heavy pruning of deciduous trees until winter dormancy.

BACKYARD ORCHARD TREES, SHRUBS & VINES: The following links to the University of California Backyard Orchard care sheets will keep you on track and on your way to a tasty harvest: Almond, Apple , Apricot, Avocado, Berries (blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, and strawberry) , Cherry, Chestnut, Citrus (grapefruit, lemon, mandarin, and orange) , Fig, Filbert (Hazelnut), Grape (table), Kiwifruit, Loquat, Nectarine, Olive, Peach, Pear, Pecan, Persimmon, Pistachio, Plum & Prune, Pomegranate, Quince, Walnut. Many nurseries are taking bare-root orders now.

IRRIGATION: Continue watering until rains begin. You may notice the need for watering isn't quite as dire as it was in previous months.

ANNUALS: Have you replaced your summer color with cool-season annuals? Do it now and you'll beat the rain, establish some healthy root systems and have color that lasts through spring.

PERENNIALS: Cut back late-summer bloomers lightly after blooms fade. If the following spring- and summer-flowering perennials have become crowded, dig and divide them, using a knife or pruning saw to cut the clump into halves or quarters: agapanthus, clivia, gazania, fortnight lily, Aster x frikartii, astilbe, Bergenia cordifolia, columbine, coreopsis, crocosmia, daylily, delphinium, Gaillardia x grandiflora, Geranium 'Johnson's Blue', Geum chiloense, heuchera, hosta, Lobelia cardinalis, Lychgates coronary, Cardamon dairymaid, peony, Scabiosa Columbia, Shasta daisy, Siberian iris, snow-in-summer, summer phlox, and yarrow (wait until summer to divide bearded iris and oriental poppy). Avoid heavy pruning until late winter or early spring, when new growth is just beginning to emerge.

ROSES: Keep well-watered and skip the fertilizer if you fertilized before the fall flush of growth and blooms.

WEEDS: Last chance to attack winter-dormant weeds like Bermuda grass and nut sedge. See the IPM website for more info. UC Weed Gallery for proper identification and the UC IPM Pest Notes for how to manage them.

PESTS: Ants are heading back indoors and snails are becoming more active.

[nayaadina-blog]

Maintenance this month December

December 21 is the first day of winter. Days are shorter; nights longer. It's cold and hopefully rainy. When it's not raining, in case you harbored any illusions of a maintenance-free month, you should probably be out there doing some dormant spray in gangland pining and frost protection.

GENERAL MAINTENANCE:

December is a great time to clean and repair garden tools and equipment. Check out e How's "How to Clean and Store Gardening Tools for the Winter" and lawnmower winterizing tips from Texas Cooperative Extension.

Clean up plant debris (fallen leaves, weeds, last season's annuals, warm-season veggies, etc). You'll be eliminating hiding places for pest and diseases. All but the diseased stuff and weeds that have gone to seed can be added to your compost pile! Frosts are common this time of year, so be ready to provide protection (in the form of lights, blankets, plastic, etc.) for frost-tender landscape plants (citrus, bougainvillea, etc.). Click here for tips from the California Rare Fruit Growers. November is also a good month for winterizing your irrigation system. Check out these tips from Rain Bird.

LAWN MAINTENANCE:

 Rake any leaves remaining on the lawn and add them to your compost pile. Minimize foot traffic on wet lawns. Bermumdagrass lawns...or lawns suffering from evil, wretched bermudagrass invasions... are dormant (i.e. dead-looking). The solution for some? Overseeing with annual rye grass.

Is it raining?

If so, no need to water. Is your grass growing much? Probably not. Enjoy your mowing holiday... UC GUIDE TO HEALTHY LAWNS: Want to know what type of lawn you have and how to maintain it? Want to put in a new lawn or renovate an old one? Need lawn pest info? The new UC Guide to Healthy Lawns is an excellent resource. So is the UC "Lawn Watering Guide for California".

SHADE TREES: 

Deciduous trees (i.e. naked in winter), can be pruned now through January. Get a good pruning book (Sunset, etc.) before you start hacking' away...better yet, attend a pruning clinic (look for those held by Cooperative Extension, nurseries, the Tree Foundation, etc.) Sacramento Tree Foundation Pruning Events: Saturday, December 4, 2004 2 PM - "Join us for a young tree pruning class. Meet at North Highlands-Antelope Library" 4235 Antelope Road (Waller Road) Antelope 95843. Contact Fran at 924-8733 x 123 for more information.

BACKYARD ORCHARD TREES, SHRUBS & VINES:

The University of California Backyard Orchard care sheets will keep you on track and on your way to a tasty harvest: Almond, Apple , Apricot, Avocado, Berries (blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, and strawberry) , Cherry, Chestnut, Citrus (grapefruit, lemon, mandarin, and orange) , Fig, Filbert (Hazelnut), Grape (table), Kiwifruit, Loquat, Nectarine, Olive, Peach, Pear, Pecan, Persimmon, Pistachio, Plum & Prune, Pomegranate, Quince, Walnut. November was when you applied the first "dormant spray" to control overwintering insects and diseases. An easy-to-remember dormant spray schedule is "Thanksgiving, Christmas and Valentine's Day," but if you want to know exactly what to spray, when to spray, and why you're spraying, see University of California's Backyard Orchard page, The Big Picture- Pests and Diseases.

IRRIGATION: If it's raining, make sure your automatic irrigation controller is set to "off". If, however, we have a winter dry spell, you may need to water (esp. under eaves). Insulate your exposed irrigation pipes with foam collars (available at hardware stores).

ANNUALS: Containerized cool-season annuals can still be planted if you didn't install them in early fall.

PERENNIALS: It's ok to cut back scraggly-looking perennials by about a third, but avoid heavy pruning of spring/summer/fall bloomers until late winter or early spring, when new growth is just beginning to emerge. That extra foliage will help protect roots and lower leaves from potential frost damage.

ROSES: Dormant-prune all varieties (except spring-only blooming antiques) later this month through January. Not sure how? Sunset's Roses is an excellent guide, or find a rose pruning clinic (look for those held at McKinley, nurseries, by the Sac. Rose Society, etc.) near you! For Upcoming Rose Society Pruning Demos and more..

[rofa1309]

What is the names origin of all berries?

Copied from here : https://pokemondb.net/pokebase/140040/what-is-the-names-origin-of-all-berries

Just needed it on tumblr as a note for future reference.

Cheri Berry , name based off cherry

Chesto Berry ,name based off chestnut

Pecha Berry ,name based on peach

Rawst Berry ,name based on strawberry

Aspear Berry , name based on Asian pear 

Leppa Berry , name based on apple

Oran Berry , name based on orange

Persim Berry , name based on persimmon 

Lum Berry , name based on plum

Sitrus Berry , name based on citrus

Figy Berry , name based on fig

Wiki Berry , name based on kiwi

Mago Berry , name based on mango

Aguav Berry , name based on guava

Iapapa Berry , name based on papaya

Razz Berry , name based on raspberry

Bluk Berry , name based on black berry

Nanab Berry , name based on banana

Wepear Berry , name based on western pear

Pinap Berry , name based on pineapple

Pomeg Berry , name based on pomegranate

Kelpsy Berry , name based on kelp

Qualot Berry , name based on loquat

Hondew Berry ,name based on honeydew

Grepa Berry , name based on grape

Tamato Berry , name based on tomato

Cornn Berry , name based on corn

Magost Berry , name based on mangosteen

Rabuta Berry , name based on rambutan

Nomel Berry , name based on lemon

Spelon Berry , name based on spiked melon 

Pamtre Berry , name based on palm tree

Watmel Berry , name based on watermelon

Durin Berry , name based on durian

Belue Berry , name based on blueberry 

Occa Berry , name based on cocao

Passho Berry , name based on passion fruit

Wacan Berry , name based on wax candle

Rindo Berry , name based on tamarind

Yache Berry , name based on cherimoya

Chople Berry , name based on chipotle

Kebia Berry , name based on akebia

Shuca Berry , name based on cashew nut

Coba Berry , name based on babaco

Payapa Berry , name based on papaya

Tanga Berry , name based on pitanga

Charti Berry , name based on artichoke

Kasib Berry , name based on cassava

Haban Berry , name based on Terihabanjirō.

Colbur Berry , name based on cocklebur

Babiri Berry , name based on biriba

Chilan Berry , name based on Chinese lantern

Liechi Berry , name based on lychee

Ganlon Berry , name based on longan

Salac Berry , name based on salak

Petaya Berry , name based on pitaya

Apicot Berry , name based on apricot

Lansat Berry , name based on langsat

Starf Berry , name based on star fruit

Enigma Berry , name based on enigma

Micle Berry , name based on miracle fruit

Custap Berry , name based on custard apple

Jaboca Berry , name based on jabuticaba

Rowap Berry , name based on water apple

[need-a-penny-take-a-penny-blog]

Gardens & Arboreta

CLEAN UP DEBRIS:

Rake leaves, fallen fruit and pull weeds. Add weed and pest free materials to your compost pile.

FALL FERTILIZER:

Switch to a “fall fertilizer”, which is lower in nitrogen (N) and higher in phosphorus (P). Using high-nitrogen fertilizers now can lead to a flush of new, tender growth that is susceptible to frost damage.

LAWN MAINTENANCE:

There’s still time to renovate your lawn, weather permitting. The UC Guide to Healthy Lawns is an excellent place to start. So is the UC “Lawn Watering Guide for California”. If you miss Fall’s mild weather window, wait until spring to do any major renovation or installation.

FEED THE SOIL:

Compost is the secret to building good garden soil, no matter what you’re starting out with (sand, clay, etc.). Compost can be added now as a top dressing around established plants. In new landscapes or wherever you plant a new plant (excepting larger landscape trees, which need to be planted in unamended native soil), mix compost with the existing soil by digging or tilling. Regular addition of compost is necessary in our area because organic matter breaks down quickly. Those bags of compost you added a couple years ago are probably gone, gone, gone. Go easy on the tilling, though. Over-tilling can destroy soil structure and over time can create a “plow pan” layer that inhibits water infiltration and can bring dormant weed seeds to the soil surface.

BACKYARD ORCHARD TREES, SHRUBS & VINES:

Time for 1st dormant spraying to control pests and diseases later this month. The easy-to-remember spray schedule is “Thanksgiving, Christmas and Valentine’s Day,” but your best bet is to learn why you’re spraying and how weather plays a role.

Clean up fallen fruit to avoid overwintering pests and diseases.

The University of California Backyard Orchard care sheets will keep you on track and on your way to a tasty harvest:

Almond

Apple

Apricot

Avocado

Berries

Cherry

Chestnut

Citrus

Fig

Filbert (Hazelnut)

Grape (table)

Kiwifruit

Loquat

Nectarine

Olive

Peach

Pear

Pecan

Persimmon

Pistachio

Plum & Prune

Pomegranate

Quince

Walnut

CITRUS CARE RECOMMENDED FERTILIZER APPLICATION RATES: NITROGEN (N): regular application required 1 to 2 year old tree: 2 tablespoons nitrogen fertilizer 3 to 4 times per year or 1/10 lb. nitrogen fertilizer per year 3-year-old tree: ¼ lb. nitrogen applied to dripline before watering 4+ year old tree: 1 lb. actual nitrogen per tree per year. So, if your nitrogen fertilizer contains 33% actual nitrogen (33-0-0), you will need to apply 3 lbs. Some references recommend dividing applications into thirds, totaling 3 applications per year (early spring, summer and fall). If you follow that recommendation, make sure you avoid feeding oranges and grapefruit during summer to avoid thick rinds, lower juice content and re-greening of Valencia oranges. PHOSPHORUS (P): 1 lb. phosphate per tree every 3 to 4 years per mature tree POTASSIUM (K): as needed (deficiency: general leaf pattern begins as a yellowing of the tips and margins, which then gets broader. Necrotic areas and spotting can develop on the leaves) 2.5 to 5 lbs. potassium per mature tree per year for 2 years if deficiency is noted. MAGNESIUM (Mg): as needed (deficiency noted by yellowing between veins of older leaves followed by dropping.) ZINC: as needed (deficiency symptom is “mottle-leaf”, exhibited by “small terminal leaves with mottling between large leaf veins”. Apply late-winter or early spring foliar spray (carefully follow label directions) IRON: as needed (deficiency symptom is yellowing between large leaf veins… i.e. interveinal chlorosis) foliar spray (follow label directions) MANGANESE (Mn): as needed (deficiency: young leaves turn light green between veins, often more noticeable on tree’s north side). Combination “micronutrient sprays” are available at your local nursery if you suspect multiple deficiencies. A specialized citrus fertilizer or “citrus food” likely contains all necessary macro- and micro-nutrients.

References: California Master Gardener Handbook and the following books:

IRRIGATION:

Fall rains are here. Turn off sprinklers during rainy periods and on again when we have a dry stretch. The goal is to water as deeply and infrequently as possible. Shallow, frequent watering (i.e. 10 min/day, 7 days/wk) is a no-no because you’ll end up with shallow root systems requiring frequent watering and conditions that encourage disease. Also, early morning is the best watering time if you want to discourage heat-loving, water-transported plant pathogens. Download the free UC publication “Lawn Watering Guide for California”. This excellent guide solves the mystery of when to water and how much to apply.

ANNUALS:

Replace warm-season annuals with cool-season color. Avoid purchasing summer annuals (petunias, marigolds, etc.). You may still see them for sale in nurseries, but don’t buy ‘em! Leftover warm-season annuals will wither in our winter weather…

PERENNIALS:

Continue deadheading spent flowers. Cut back perennials lightly after they finish blooming. Wait until late frost danger has passed before removing overwintering stems. Leaving some foliage over winter is a good idea because it helps insulate the plants crown and roots.

[farmgardenstore-blog]

Galigan 2E Herbicide with Oxyflurofen equivalent to goaltender 6666049

Galigan 2E Herbicide with Oxyflurofen equivalent to goaltender 6666049

For use on: Almond, Anona, Apple, Apricot, Artichoke, Aster, Avocado, Banana, Begonia, Berries, Blackberry, Blueberry, Brassica, Broccoli, Cabbage, Caneberries, Carnation, Cauliflower, Cherry, Christmas trees, Chrysanthemum, Citrus, Conifers, Corn (maize), Cotton, Cranberry, Currant, Dahlia, Dates, Deciduous fruits, Dewberry, Eggplant, Eucalyptus, Figs, Flowers, Forestry, Fruits, Garlic, Gladiolus, Gooseberry, Grapefruits, Grapes (vine), Horseradish, Iris, Kiwi, Lemons, Lilium, Loquat, Macadamia Nuts, Mango, Marigold, Mint, Narcissus , Nectarine, Nursery, Olive, Onion, Oranges, Orchids, Ornamental, Papaya, Peach , Pear, Pecan, Persimmon, Phlox, Pineapple, Pistachio, Plum, Poinsettia, Pome Fruit, Pomegranate, Poplar, Prune, Quince, Raspberry, Rice, Rubber, Soybean, Stone Fruit , Strawberry, Subtropical & tropical fruits, Sunflower, Tomato, Walnut, Zinnia GALIGAN is a herbicide of the diphenyl-ether group used for selective weed control in a wide range of fruit trees, vegetables, field crops, ornamentals, forestry, sugarcane and non-crop areas GALIGAN is used in pre-plant, pre-emergence and post-emergence applications. GALIGAN has prolonged residual activity and shows negligible leaching. Minimal rain or irrigation is necessary to activate the residual effect. GALIGAN may be tank-mixed with GLYPHOGAN, paraquat or glufosinate to improve its contact activity, and with many residual herbicides to broaden the spectrum of weeds controlled in various crops. GALIGAN is available in Emulsifiable Concentrate (EC) formulations

Read more on https://www.farmgardensuperstore.com/product/galigan-2e-herbicide-with-oxyflurofen-equivalent-to-goaltender-6666049/

[mwacha]

Plant Wish List

Flowering

Sunflower

Lavender

Rose

Poppy

Thyme

Oregano

Cilantro

Nasturtium

Echinacea

Marigold 

Herbs

Calendula

Mint

Basil

Lemongrass 

Rosemary

Sage

Bay

Nettle (stinging, etc.)

Dill

Parsley

Trees

Olive

Satsuma Orange

Persimmon

Peach

Loquat

Grapefruit

Apple

Cherry

Lime

Berry

Elderberry

blackberry

sunberry

ground cherry

[thepalladiantraveler]

Just a few days ago, Orna O’Reilly and I left snowy Washington, D.C. behind in the contrail of a KLM Airbus A330 and arrived back to our little Shangri-La — a new home build, named Villa Allegra, that sits atop a hill in Contrada Cinera, just outside Ostuni, Puglia — in the throws of an early spring.

Our landscaping is now in full swing, thanks to Luigi and Angelo, our agro mentors, along with finalizing with Giuseppe, our plumber, the connection of the pozzo (well) to our cistern, where water, pulled from some 340+ meters below the surface, will provide Villa Allegra with much-needed H20 to irrigate our nearly two-acre parcel, home to 80+ olive trees and a dozen or so fruit trees, along with keeping the swimming pool topped up during the much anticipated long, hot summer.

Jet lag now behind us (hopefully), we’re beginning to understand why we pulled up stakes from the Veneto and headed southeast to the sun-kissed Salento, Italy’s stiletto heel, where the Adriatic and Ionian Seas embrace, rosato wines rule, bruschetta is a daily ritual and pastel-colored sunsets are the norm.

Both established and newly planted fruit trees — almond, apricot, cherry, fig, kako mela (persimmon apple) and loquat — along with a long row of lavender, have joined forces with the indigenous wildflowers to add bursts of color around our bright-white, humble abode with the Santorini-blue shutters that match the sky.

Life around Villa Allegra is almost too good to be true.

©ThePalladianTraveler

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Villa Allegra: Our little Hilltop Shangri-La in Puglia Just a few days ago, Orna O'Reilly and I left snowy Washington, D.C. behind in the contrail of a KLM Airbus A330 and arrived back to our little Shangri-La -- a new home build, named Villa Allegra, that sits atop a hill in Contrada Cinera, just outside Ostuni, Puglia -- in the throws of an early spring.

[farmgardenstore-blog]

Galigan 2E Herbicide with Oxyflurofen equivalent to goaltender 6666049

Galigan 2E Herbicide with Oxyflurofen equivalent to goaltender 6666049

For use on: Almond, Anona, Apple, Apricot, Artichoke, Aster, Avocado, Banana, Begonia, Berries, Blackberry, Blueberry, Brassica, Broccoli, Cabbage, Caneberries, Carnation, Cauliflower, Cherry, Christmas trees, Chrysanthemum, Citrus, Conifers, Corn (maize), Cotton, Cranberry, Currant, Dahlia, Dates, Deciduous fruits, Dewberry, Eggplant, Eucalyptus, Figs, Flowers, Forestry, Fruits, Garlic, Gladiolus, Gooseberry, Grapefruits, Grapes (vine), Horseradish, Iris, Kiwi, Lemons, Lilium, Loquat, Macadamia Nuts, Mango, Marigold, Mint, Narcissus , Nectarine, Nursery, Olive, Onion, Oranges, Orchids, Ornamental, Papaya, Peach , Pear, Pecan, Persimmon, Phlox, Pineapple, Pistachio, Plum, Poinsettia, Pome Fruit, Pomegranate, Poplar, Prune, Quince, Raspberry, Rice, Rubber, Soybean, Stone Fruit , Strawberry, Subtropical & tropical fruits, Sunflower, Tomato, Walnut, Zinnia GALIGAN is a herbicide of the diphenyl-ether group used for selective weed control in a wide range of fruit trees, vegetables, field crops, ornamentals, forestry, sugarcane and non-crop areas GALIGAN is used in pre-plant, pre-emergence and post-emergence applications. GALIGAN has prolonged residual activity and shows negligible leaching. Minimal rain or irrigation is necessary to activate the residual effect. GALIGAN may be tank-mixed with GLYPHOGAN, paraquat or glufosinate to improve its contact activity, and with many residual herbicides to broaden the spectrum of weeds controlled in various crops. GALIGAN is available in Emulsifiable Concentrate (EC) formulations

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