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roseclothes · 2 years

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Loewe FW23

From Sarah Mower's review for Vogue

One of the reasons that Anderson is up there among the most significant designers of today is that he has such a sharp instinct for drawing attention to timely, complicated questions—in this case, the hyper-awareness he has of simultaneously creating an event for a small number of people real time, whilst also factoring in how it will be perceived by the much bigger audience watching his every move on screens.

What’s real, and what’s fake? And more to the point, what’s constructive that can come out of that question? Anderson had fun with that, warping anachronistic haute couture techniques and generic dress types to make ‘T-shirts’ and ‘jeans’ entirely of goose-feathers, and three strapless velvet cocktail dresses calculated to look flat and normal on screen, but which had a stiff, tubular stand-away volume in reality.

There was more eye-trickery when a couple of ‘ordinary’ cardigans—one pink, one turquoise—turned up: in fact, they’d been printed out on adhesive paper, and literally stuck on the models’ skin. Then there were tiny, seamlessly molded jackets, which Anderson described as “like Playmobil.” Unless you touched them, you’d hardly realize they’d actually been made from super-fine leather, vacuum-formed the same way as luxury car upholstery. Maybe not even then.

Simplicity: of course, this is also a value that’s also suddenly at the center of attention this season. It’s another key to Anderson’s mastery as a creative director that alongside the internet-detonating sensations in his collections, he’s always put his finger on perfect, uncomplicated clothes and multiple inventions and iterations of bags and accessories that are magnetically desirable and wearable.

“I’ve been 10 years here at Loewe. You kind of you start to be like, ‘Well, ‘what is that next chapter like?’” His answer this season was to go fully into the fine leather and suede which are the brand’s heritage. “I feel like in the beginning that was something that I kind of went away from,” he said. “Whereas now, it’s about implementing it back in.”

He had some fun with that, too: a brown leather shirt was hybridized with a bag, with a hitched-up shoulder strap attached to its tail. Funny. It didn’t distract, though, from all the rest: the perfect leather tank, the long camel suede coat, the giant geometric leather totes, the renewed, retooled long, shallow ‘Passia’ bag and the deep cylindrical suede shoulder bag that Anderson had found in the archive. Perhaps that’s what he meant when he made that remark at the beginning: the excitement of “classicism meeting something which is new.”

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sgsminabags · 2 years

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Prada Bags the season that's all about a mod

Elevate the hue ever so slightly in a pair of houndstooth flared pants by Stella McCartney. Atop, Toteme's tube top is a favorite on our fall shopping list. The street style spotted in between each show or event is equally as inspiring and also telling of what our fashion future has in store. One person shows off her pair of yellow tinted shades and says, "I'm really into light lenses.

In the past, you could go through my slideshow and figure out what shows happened that day based on what the influencers and major editors were wearing. Style the black jeans a la Jenner with a cropped black T shirt from The Frankie Shop and Wandler's Hannah' shoulder bag.

The pieces are still her to the core in other words, fun just more refined. The star has been working with her longtime stylist Kate Young, and together they've cultivated a fresh new look for Prada Bags the season that's all about a mod, 1960s inspired sensibility.

Will runway shows resume in person, or will designers pivot back to virtual presentations. Perhaps the street style set is moving away from flashy micro bags and instead choosing something more versatile and practical such as black leather. Add a touch of chicness to your outfits with a classic style. Vogue partnered with the Tory Burch Foundation to have shelves lined with Vogue themed merchandise and snacks like Bixby Chocolate and Partake Foods cookies from companies founded by female entrepreneurs.

At Lagos's spring 2023 shows, street stylers are putting their best foot clad in Bottega boots forward. Guests are bringing the drama in head to toe monochromatic looks in bold colorways, as well as lots of ruffles, fur, and textures. The check in area Prada Handbags for show attendees was transformed into a dynamic corner store. The whole ensemble was a literal clean slate an expensive one at that, thanks to slick tailoring and sharp accessories.

With Daniel Roseberry's return to the runways for Schiaparelli and Glenn Martens's first couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, couture week is packed with can't miss shows. Chances are guests will be bringing their best looks forward to attend the week's most newsworthy events, and Style Du Monde will be following along in Paris as editors, celebrities, and models show off couture jewelry, matching couple looks, and the season's most memorable pieces.

A perfect pointed toe black boot instantly dresses up any outfit in mind. Soft to the Clutch Grab a hold of something warm and fuzzy this fall, like Loewe's Flamenco furry clutch or Altuzarra's shearling shoulder bag. Not only is she a supermodel spanning the globe, but Jenner also serves as the creative director of FWRD. So it's no surprise High Quality Prada Bags that she's often captured from meeting to meeting sporting a business casual look or two.

#Prada

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thatsnotcanonpodcasts · 4 years

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Camelot with Mathew Hannibal Butler

This week we chat with Matthew Hannibal Butler about which of life's truths can be gleaned from the Kennedy-favourite musical - Camelot!

"A 1993 review in The New York Times commented that the musical "has grown in stature over the years, primarily because of its superb score ... [which] combined a lyrical simplicity with a lush romanticism, beautifully captured in numbers like 'I Loved You Once in Silence' and 'If Ever I Would Leave You.' These ballads sung by Guenevere and Lancelot are among the most memorable in the Lerner-Loewe catalogue. King Arthur supplies the wit, with songs like 'I Wonder What the King Is Doing Tonight.'"

Listen to Matthew's Podcast here: thatsnotcanon.com/deliciouswordsandwichpodcast

FURTHER READING:

Camelot (musical)

Camelot (film)

Alan Jay Lerner

Frederick Loewe

The Once and Future King.

Kennedy Administration

Julie Andrews

Richard Burton

Robert Goulet

https://open.spotify.com/album/5Fp6Y3gNufwzUeEBxuOZpo

https://music.apple.com/us/album/camelot-original-1960-broadway-cast-recording/158476378

Camelot: The Musical, A History By Matthew Hannibal Butler

By Alan Jay Lerner and Frederick Lowe

A History By Matthew Hannibal Butler

Camelotis an oft forgotten and underrated musical masterpiece by the iconic duo Lerner and Lowe, first premiering with Sir Richard Burton as King Arthur and Dame Julie Andrews as Guinevere, with Robert Goulet as the dashing Sir Lancelot. They did not have these titles when it premiered in 1960 at the Majestic Theatre, but I thought it was a nice touch considering their royal counterparts.

Camelotis inspired by the definitive Arthurian novel The Once and Future King by T.H. White, a four book saga consisting of the iconic Sword in the Stone,The Witch in the Woods, The Ill-Made Knight and finally The Candle in the Wind. The musical mainly focuses on the events of this final instalment detailing with the last weeks of Arthur’s reign, the machinations and ultimately revolts by his son Mordred, Guinevere and Lancelot’s demise, and the tragic king’s final reflections of right and wrong. For all its levity, what I adore about this musical’s story is its choice to focus on one of the greatest tragedies in western folklore: The Fall of Camelot.

As you can tell, I am an Arthurian lore fanatic, and T.H. White’s book, in my opinion, is the best classic interpretation of King Arthur. A tragedy of this musical is, in my opinion, that it did not inspire more interest in White’s marvellous book.

Lerner and Lowe, as well as Camelot’s original director Moss Hart, were all coming from the chaotic universal success of their musical My Fair Lady and their musical film Gigi. Tensions and stakes were high. ‘Twas the classic tale of ‘What’s next?’ after tremendous success. Hart and Lerner decided upon T.H. White’s quintessential fantasy published in 1958 for their next musical. For a very small background on White, he wrote the bulk of the series in Ireland as a conscientious objector of the second World War between 1938 and 1941, thus writing a distinctly anti-war, anti-violent story engrained with western identity. To adapt this at this time, just before Kennedy’s escalation of the Vietnam War is a right proper noble gambit worthy of Arthur, let me tell you.

Frederick Lowe initially had no interest in the project, but agreed to write the score on the condition that, if it went badly, it would be his last. This do or die spirit, I found, reigned throughout the whole production, in spite of everything, and made it the suitably tragic triumph that it became. There were several problems plaguing the production, not least of which was Lerner’s wife leaving him during its writing, causing him to seek medical attention. I can’t help but surmise this informs one of the most poignant moments of the play, when Arthur realises the feelings shared between Lancelot and Guinevere and he thus soliloquises about his love for his kingdom, his purpose and in truth his friends will ensure that they will together nonetheless prevail through all challenges.

During its initial previews, it overran drastically. It was supposed to be two hours and forty minutes, instead it clocked in at a casual four and a half hours with the curtain coming down at twenty to 1 in the morning. Lerner later noted, “Only Tristan and Isolde equalled it as a bladder endurance contest”. In spite of this trial, positive reviews still generally prevailed though with an insistence much work needed yet. With drastic editing to be done, Lerner was hospitalised for three weeks with a bleeding ulcer, then Hart tagged into the hospital just as Lerner tagged out with his second heart attack.

Cutting it down became a stubborn quest, for Lerner did not want to make dramatic decisions without Hart. Alas, Jose Ferrer of Cyrano de Bergerac fame was unable to step in, and so it goes as Lerner wrote: “God knows what would have happened had it not been for Richard Burton.” He accepted cuts and changes all while radiating faith and geniality to calm the fears of the cast. A King off and on the stage. Meanwhile, ever the Queen, last minute changes were so dramatic that literally at the last minute before the New York preview Julie Andrews was given the iconic number “Before I Gaze At You Again”, simply remarking “Of course, darling, but do try to get it to me the night before”.

With Hart returned, literally and figuratively, cuts and edits continued. The New York critics’ reviews of the original production were mixed. However, My Fair Lady’s fifth anniversary approached and Ed Sullivan wanted to do a tribute segment on his show. Lerner and Lowe chose to mainly perform highlights from Camelot on the show, and so it was their new show achieved an unprecedented advance sale of three and a half million dollars.

Now that’s perseverance, even when things are going haywire, you raise the stakes even higher! This served also to make Robert Goulet a household name with his signature ballad, “If Ever I would Leave You” becoming the Once and Future Belter.

Camelot had its initial run. In such time, it gained many an award, including four Tony Awards, with Richard Burton for Best Leading Actor, naturally Best Scenic Design and Best Costume Design, with Franz Allers for Best Conductor and Musical Director and finally with Julie Andrews being ROBBED and fetching a nomination for Best Leading Actress.

Robert Goulet became a STAR with appearances on the Danny Thomas and Ed Sullivan Shows, and the stellar, and frankly best, original cast recording became a favourite bedtime listening for President John F. Kennedy, who was Lerner’s classmate at Harvard University. His favourite lines from the final reprise of the titular song became well-documented, and forever associated Camelot, with all its idealism and sheen, with the Kennedy Administration.

Small sidenote, to enjoy this tremendous score, the best buck starts and ends with the original cast soundtrack.

Alas, the obstacles encountered in producing Camelot were hard on the creative partnership of Lerner and Loewe, the show turning out to be one of their last collaborations. Camelot was indeed Hart’s last Broadway show, dying of a heart attack on December 20, 1961.

Since the original production, Richard Burton reprised his role as Arthur with Christine Ebersole as Guinevere and Richard Muenz as Lancelot. Then ‘twas revived in 1981 with Richard Harris as Arthur, Meg Bussert as Guinevere, Muenz once more as Sir Lancelot. This version can be found three parts on the YouTubes. Harris starred in the tragic for all the wrong reasons film, but proved he was the jewel in that particular crown for he took the show to tour nationwide with Muenz. A curious Broadway Revival also ran in 1993 with Robert Goulet now King Arthur.

There was then in 2007 Michael York as King Arthur, Rachel York, no relation, as Guinevere and the disgraced James Barbour ironically as Lancelot.

Alas, I have not been able to see Michael York as King Arthur, as that is inspired casting.

The final production I have had the honour of seeing was in 2008, since alas taken down from the YouTubes, where the New York Philharmonic presented five semi-staged concerts of Camelot with Gabriel Byrne as a more contemplative and subdued King Arthur, Marin Mazzie as Guenevere, and Nathan Gunn as Lancelot. What made this production stand out for me was it didn’t overdo anything, as this musical can oft be overwhelming, and also it featured Christopher Lloyd as Pellinore, a role I feel he was destined to do. Oh, if only they had done a spin-off adventure story starring Christopher Lloyd as Pellinore in his endless hunt for the Questing Beast.

All in all, the history of Camelot I think reflects it perfectly for better or ill. It is not a universally appealing production. In my opinion, it was never destined to be, considering its content and style. It is very chatty, pontificating and philosophical, yet with its simply magic score, a lush fantastical world, sweeping tragic romance and swashbuckling glory, when it connects with people it connects as firmly as the sword in the stone.

Like us on Facebook! Follow us on Twitter! Support us on Patreon!

Email us: [email protected]

Visit our home on the web thatsnotcanonproductions.com

Our theme song and interstitial music all by the one and only Benedict Braxton Smith. Find out more about him at www.benedictbraxtonsmith.com

#broadway #nyc #music #musicals #jazz #overture #diva #lifelessons #dance #choreography #new york #theatre #performance #stage #thespian

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mikemortgage · 6 years

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Inside a big top, Dior puts on circus-themed couture

PARIS — Dior drew inspiration from the top of the big top for a ludic couture show held Monday in Paris, where models inside a circus-style tent walked through a human arch made of moving acrobats.

The theme seemed to well serve designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has struggled to fly in recent seasons.

The acrobatics also dovetailed with some of the recent film roles of Dior’s VIP guest, British actress Felicity Jones, who explained all to The Associated Press.

Here are some highlights of Monday’s spring-summer 2019 couture collections in Paris.

DIOR CIRCUS

Hundreds of vintage light bulbs like the ones used at fairgrounds lit up Dior’s life-sized circus and a giant wooden pole held up the big top. Guests at the show inside the Rodin Museum gardens gawped at the decor.

Acrobats dressed in the black-and-white costumes of Pierrot, the clown character from French pantomime, entered the stage area on each other’s shoulders to begin the whimsical collection that riffed on the circus theme.

Dior has had a long history with the big top — from a famous 1955 photo shoot with elephants in Paris’ Winter Circus to the circus theme picked for one of former designer John Galliano’s most memorable shows.

And the circus seems to have provided Chiuri, who’s struggled to take off since taking Dior’s creative helm in 2016, the perfect muse to unlock her creativity.

It was light and fun, without being heavy-handed or overly literal.

A model in a chic sequined helmet wore a white origami skirt inspired by a clown’s ruff and featuring a slightly dropped waist.

A clown’s multi-colored costume spawned a fantastic knitted tulle playsuit with a stylish Juliette sleeve — a shape repeated throughout the 68-look collection.

Another tulle jumpsuit sported a multi-colored streak in satin bands and dramatically square shoulders.

It was worn atop a “tattooed” body suit that conjured up images of Victorian-era circus performers, one of many details that gave this collection a historic depth.

FELICITY JONES ON ACROBATS

Felicity Jones spoke to the AP from under Dior’s big top and said she coincidentally she had just finished playing an acrobat for a movie called “Aeronauts” that reunited with “Theory of Everything” co-star Eddie Redmayne.

“This set is so fitting. It’s obviously in the air,” she said, smiling.

The feminist edge Chiuri has brought to Dior since becoming the first female designer in house history also mirrored the “kick-ass women” Jones chooses to play, including U.S. Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsberg in the biopic “On the Basis of Sex.”

“She’s a formidable woman. She’s someone who’s changed the face of gender equality in the world, so it was an enormous privilege to be playing her,” Jones added.

IRIS VAN HERPEN TAKES FLIGHT

Dutch wunderkind Iris Van Herpen’s couture took flight in the Palais de Beaux Arts in Paris’ chic Left Bank.

The show evoked winged forms and organic life, and was inspired by visual artist Kim Keever, who drops paint pigment into water.

The arty setting was an appropriate backdrop for the sculptural creations that seemed to borrow from works housed at the Louvre, located hundreds of meters (yards) away.

An organic cobalt blue gown featured bare shoulders and a pair of pleated wings that created a highly dramatic dynamic, similar to the Louvre’s famed Hellenistic sculpture, The Winged Victory of Samothrace.

Elsewhere, the marbled form of insects — or perhaps the intricate molecular structures of stones and crystals? — were reflected in a beautiful series of draped and loosely fitted silk gowns.

Long Asian sleeves on vivid red and pearly white dresses added elegance and an opportunity to create an interesting trapeze silhouette.

Van Herpen is a couture poet.

SCHIAPARELLI IS WHIMSICAL

Whimsical would be the word to best describe Schiaparelli’s spring-summer couture. Designer Bertrand Guyon presented a fantastical universe of sheeny silks, softly architectural silhouettes and beautiful colours.

The embellishments and shimmering embroideries on diverse designs were more than a match for the gilded gold of the show venue, Paris’ ornate Garnier Opera House.

Anachronism and contrast ruled.

Cowboy boots cut a dramatic style below a medieval mini dress with speckled and billowing Juliette sleeves.

A 1950s bar jacket and peplum ensemble and contemporary pants sported floral scenes that made it appear the pieces were used as a painter’s canvas.

And colored feathers that embellished several dresses gave the collection a dreamy quality as they slowly floated by, with the occasional plume falling gently to the ground.

LANVIN APPOINTS NEW DESIGNER

Lanvin, the world’s oldest continually running couture house, has suffered creative turbulence and questions about its direction ever since the departure of lauded couturier Alber Elbaz in 2015.

Since then, there has been a steady stream of disappointing designers whose collections have prompted lukewarm reviews.

On Monday, the house named a new creative director: Bruno Sialelli.

“After a thorough and extensive application process involving an incredible array of talented designers,” Sialelli’s profile was that which embodied best “this new chapter in the house’s history,” Lanvin said.

Sialelli was poached from his position as the men’s design director for Loewe.

He said he aims to bring “emotions through compelling stories” and to define “a modern attitude” while continuing Lanvin’s iconic legacy.

The French hold a precious place in their hearts and culture for Lanvin, founded in 1889 by female fashion trailblazer Jeanne Lanvin.

RALPH AND RUSSO GO FULL-ON RED CARPET

Red carpet favourites Ralph and Russo unabashedly turned on the Hollywood glitz Monday.

A thousand-watt showbiz lights at the foot of the runway spelled out the surnames of creative partners Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo, as couture looks spilled out in va-va-voom haute glamour.

Day wear was reasonably restrained, featuring details such as a snake embellishment across a tight double-breasted jacket in malachite or a circular hat with an oversize rim.

But for the evening, the house put away its subtlety and got out its tulles, feathers and skin-baring bodices in black, white and neon pink. They will soon likely crop up on a red carpet in the French Riviera.

Despite being relative fashion newcomers — they have already had star clients like Beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Kristen Stewart and Jennifer Lopez.

——

Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://www.twitter.com/ThomasAdamson–K

from Financial Post http://bit.ly/2DoXdLM via IFTTT Blogger Mortgage Tumblr Mortgage Evernote Mortgage Wordpress Mortgage href="https://www.diigo.com/user/gelsi11">Diigo Mortgage

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titoslondon-blog · 6 years

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New Post has been published on Titos London

#Blog New Post has been published on http://www.titoslondon.co.uk/mugler-returns-a-first-look-at-casey-cadwalladers-debut-collection/

Mugler returns: A first look at Casey Cadwallader’s debut collection

On the northwestern outskirts of Barcelona, the head office of architect Ricardo Bofill rises up from a garden of olive and cypress trees like the Tower of Babel. Carved out of the shell of a disused cement factory La Fábrica, as it is known, is a place where Escher-like staircases lead to nowhere, colossal oxidised metal beams soar between béton brut walls and rooftops are coated in lush green lawns.

Here, on a balmy Sunday in April, Vogue came to meet Mugler’s new artistic director, Casey Cadwallader. Though he may not be a familiar name, there’s a good chance you have worn his designs. Until now, the American designer has worked largely behind the scenes at TSE, Loewe and J. Mendel, before becoming design director for women’s ready-to-wear and accessories at Narciso Rodriguez, and then design director of Acne Studios’ pre-collections. Cadwallader’s aptitude for, as he puts it, “translating yourself through the lens of the brand” will be an invaluable asset to Mugler, which has lost some of its momentum in recent years.

Established in 1974 by Thierry Mugler, the French fashion house pioneered the aggressively sexy, angular hourglass silhouette—achieved through padding a woman’s every curve and cinching in her waist—which became synonymous with the 1980s and early 1990s. Mugler was the man behind the iconic little black dress Demi Moore wore in Indecent Proposal, Diana Ross and daughter Tracee Ellis walked in his shows, and in 1992, he was director and costume designer for the era-defining music video for George Michael’s hit “Too Funky”, starring the likes of Linda Evangelista, Eva Herzigova and Tyra Banks. His creations transformed women into ice queens, superheroes and even motorbikes—creations famously reincarnated in 2009 when Mugler acted as creative adviser and costume designer to Beyoncé’s “I Am��” world tour. (The outfits go on display in February for the Thierry Mugler: Creatures of Haute Couture exhibition at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.)

Despite its success and enormous influence, Clarins—which has owned the Mugler name since 1997—was forced to close the house in 2003 due to substantial losses, but the ready-to-wear line was revived seven years later under Nicola Formichetti, who built a lot of buzz around the brand thanks to his frequent collaborations with Lady Gaga. His successor, David Koma, created beautifully cut designs favoured by the likes of Nicole Kidman and Reese Witherspoon, but the brand was far from regaining the stature of its heyday. Probably should note it was revived with RTW only.

We spent two days with Cadwallader as he shot his debut collection on a diverse cast of women. By bringing together the likes of literature graduate Jess Cole, who enviably landed an exclusive with Céline in her first season; hip-hop star 070 Shake; French Olympic swimmer Anna Santamans; actress Anna Brewster; and original Mugler muses Amy Wesson and Debra Shaw, he wants to “start a conversation around what powerful modern femininity means.” The photographs, taken by Arnaud Lajeunie, will be previewed in a private penthouse in Tribeca, New York on Wednesday, where guests will see the designs firsthand.

“This project is really about bringing variety to Mugler. Recently, [the brand] was only about evening wear, it didn’t really do more than dress elegant women, models and beautiful actresses for the red carpet,” the 38-year-old explains as he adjusts the collar of a black leather biker jacket on Cole. With its oversized belt buckle and broad shoulders, the references to the original Mugler are there, only softer and more supple—the armholes dropped to the top of the arm rather than jutting out at an angle, and the material itself only lightly buffed, not lacquered to the point of being fetishistic.

Later in the day, Cole changes into a trench coat made in collaboration with the artist Samara Scott. A zany concoction of ingredients are trapped between the two layers of clear vinyl from which the garment is cut, ranging from hair gel to curry powder and toothpaste. When opened up and held against the sun, it is a thing of ethereal beauty that resembles a basking butterfly—a subconscious nod to Mugler’s spring 1997 couture collection.

There’s a similarity between the way Paris-based Cadwallader, who hails from New Hampshire and holds a degree in architecture from Cornell University, is approaching Mugler and the way Bofill converted the cement factory—demolishing part of its structure to reveal concealed forms. Rather than tearing up the original Mugler manifesto, Cadwallader is “blowing down the walls of the brand” to extend its design vocabulary for the 21st century woman. “When I looked back at Mr Mugler’s archive, he made sportswear, swimsuits, he turned women into creatures, he had dancers, performance artists and musicians at his shows—there was this movement around him,” Cadwallader enthuses. “For me, women’s empowerment then was about having big shoulders to stand up to men in the workplace and also to attract their eye. [Whereas today] women still dress for power but for themselves. That is the big difference—not to be accepted by men but to be true to yourself and feel the power of self confidence, and choose your own destiny.”

The following day at a Bofill-designed summer house, Cadwallader’s attention to structure and form comes to the fore. Shaw, a long time Mugler muse, is electrifyingly elegant standing at the side of the red-tiled pool in a knitted dress and a Marco Panconesi for Mugler ear cuff that spouts white crystals like firework sparks. Meanwhile, 070 Shake is changing into a denim two-piece that teases the mind with its painstakingly assembled spiral seams, which seem to have no beginning or end. Perhaps one of the most literally referenced pieces in his collection (available at Net-a-Porter, Bergdorf Goodman and the Mugler store in Paris from August) is a fully canvassed jacket based on a men’s design from the Mugler archive, which comes in teal and black. The cut has been adapted to better suit a woman’s body, with laces so “any woman any size can adjust the strings and define their waist”, explains Cadwallader.

The designs aren’t short of ingenuity or craftsmanship, and although Cadwallader views this first body of work as an “experiment”—having only had seven weeks to design it following his December appointment—the 30-style collection is a coherent celebration of individuality. Going forward, the plan is to show the collections on schedule, but rather than pouring money into a runway show, Cadwallader intends to continue doing special events or presentations.

But how does it feel to wear Cadwallader’s Mugler compared to Thierry Mugler’s? Who better to ask than the women who have inspired both designers? “A Mugler suit made you appear strong even if you weren’t. It’s a special human power—you put on the suit and it gives you strength,” Shaw tells me over dinner that night. She pulls out her phone and shows me a photo of her and Amy Wesson modelling side-by-side in the Thierry Mugler Autumn/Winter 1998 couture show. This shoot, she believes, is the first time they have been reunited since that day. “Casey has really captured that spirit,” she continues. “To do that and still be in your own creative space is genius. You feel a bit of the old Mugler but it’s an advancement of today. It’s a perfect example of how [Thierry] would evolve with the times.”

1/20 Hip hop star 070 Shake, who signed to GOOD Music (Kanye West's Def Jam imprint) last year

Image: Christopher McCrory

Actor Anna Brewster

Image: Christopher McCrory

Mugler’s Artistic Director Casey Cadwallader dressing British model Jess Cole

Image: Christopher McCrory

Japanese model Ami Suzuki

Image: Christopher McCrory

Swiss model Vivienne Rohner

Image: Christopher McCrory

Japanese model Ami Suzuki

Image: Christopher McCrory

Casey Cadwallader and long time Mugler muse Debra Shaw

Image: Christopher McCrory

Marco Panconesi for Mugler ear cuff

Image: Christopher McCrory

British model Jess Cole

Image: Christopher McCrory

Hip hop star 070 Shake

Image: Christopher McCrory

French Olympic swimmer Anna Santamans

Image: Christopher McCrory

Original Mugler muse Amy Wesson

Image: Christopher McCrory

Actor Anna Brewster

Image: Christopher McCrory

Artist Samara Scott

Image: Christopher McCrory

Mugler’s Artistic Director Casey Cadwallader

Image: Christopher McCrory

Long time Mugler muse Debra Shaw circumvents Ricardo Bofill’s red-tiled pool

Image: Christopher McCrory

French Olympic swimmer Anna Santamans

Image: Christopher McCrory

The Ricardo Bofill-designed summer house with red-tiled pool

Image: Christopher McCrory

Ricardo Bofill’s La Fábrica

Image: Christopher McCrory

Ricardo Bofill’s La Fábrica

Image: Christopher McCrory

The post Mugler returns: A first look at Casey Cadwallader’s debut collection appeared first on VOGUE India.

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dawnajaynes32 · 7 years

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International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain

http://festivalflora.com/

Córdoba, 25nd September 2017.- The city of Córdoba (Spain) will held from 20th to 29th October the first edition of the International Flower Festival, FLORA, a unique and remarkable event in Spain and in the world which will bring together the best international and national artists in this field to intervene –each of them with their exclusive and individual hallmark- in eight institutional patios in the city. Overall, eight spectacular and ephemeral floral installations will be created for the event and they just could be visited for free during those days.

In this way, FLORA, International Flower Festival presents an unprecedented cultural exchange between such a traditional space as the patios of Córdoba and such a contemporary and surprising art as the one of floral installations, a kind dialogue between tradition and innovation meant to become a must within the Spanish cultural agenda.

In this first edition, eight guest artists are participating: Alfie Lin (China), Flores Cosmos (Mexico), In Water Flowers (UK), Isabel Marías –under the artistic name of Elisabeth Blumen- (Spain), Loose Leaf (Australia), Natasha Lisitsa & Daniel Schultz (USA), Patrick Nadeau (France) and Tomas de Bruyne (Belgium).

Each of them will intervene in one of the eight institutional patios selected for the occasion: Palace of Orive, Posada del Potro, Archaeological Museum, Vimcorsa, Bullfighting Museum, Office of the Department of Tourism, Municipal Archives and Antonio Gala Foundation.

The patio assigned to each artist, the jury and other news will be revealed during the press conference to present the festival, which is going to be held in Córdoba on 28th September.

FLORA is also born to acknowledge the work of the best floral artist worldwide, an artistic universe still unknown for many people and lacking, until now, a prize of international importance. Three big prizes, awarded by an international jury and worth €60,000, €40,000 and €20.000 respectively, will place this festival, held in a city having such a close connection to the floral world as Córdoba, in the international sphere.

The characteristic festival prize is being designed by the prestigious Spanish jewellery brand Gold & Roses, widely linked to the art world and to locally and traditionally manufactured art .

Furthermore, the most renowned representative of the contemporary botanic drawing participated in the creation of the official poster: Katie Scott. The British illustrator prepared an exclusive floral composition from several common flowers in her book Botanicum (2016).

Once the artists have been selected, the countdown starts to enjoy FLORA, a festival born from the private initiative of Zizai Hotels, S.L. and co-organized by Córdoba City Hall, aimed to boost the city, i.e. having a positive impact on tourism, economy and art. The event also expects to involve the city itself, first of all, the general public and both local and international agents, bringing up Córdoba as a reference in the world scene of contemporary floral art.

Next autumn all culture enthusiasts will have a unique opportunity to discover an almost unprecedented art in Spain and a star appointment to be seduced by the incomparable charm and beauty of the patios of Córdoba.

BIOGRAPHIES OF THE EIGHT ARTISTS IN FLORA

Alfie Lin (China-Taiwan, 1973) For Alfie Lin, flowers not only afford beauty from a visual perspective, but also a profound emotional experience. Renowned in the floral art world for his marvellous work at Fuchun Resort in Hangzhou, he has also worked for labels such as Fendi, Dior, Loewe, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany. One of his most highly internationally acclaimed pieces is Forest Bus, a bus that was turned into an authentic “mobile forest”, which managed to bedeck the streets of Taipei, literally and metaphorically, in Nature. In 1998 he created his business, CNFlower. He has been chosen as “Man of the Year” by GQ magazine China. http://www.cnflower.com.tw

Flores Cosmos Alberto Arango (City of México, Mexico, 1980) Ramiro Guerrero (Toluca, Mexico, 1979) Ten years ago, in Barcelona, they had a vision of returning to Mexico to make a radical change in their lives: opening a florist’s. At FLORA, having by now become a benchmark for floral art in Latin America, they return to Spain to bring a marvellous circle to a close, as they have asserted. Their signature style features experimentation in shapes, colours and materials. They work with flowers as they could with any other material: what they do is pure sensitivity, artistic vision and creative boldness. They dream of setting up a floral installation at the Sculpture Space in the UNAM, in the forest of Kyoto or on the moon.

cosmosflores.blogspot.com.es

In Water Flowers Their intervention at the National Gallery in London in June 2016 showed thousands of people from around the world how far a floral installation can go: the only limits are the artist’s imagination and creativity. With more than 26,000 flowers (tulips, peonies, carnations, freesia, calla lilies and roses) they reproduced a small painting by Flemish painter Ambrosius Bosschaert the Elder, turning it into a 35-square meter installation. Robert Hornsby, creative director of the firm founded in 1999 with Claire Garabedian, started out in the world of flowers driving a delivery van (quite often rearranging the flowers he was supposed to deliver). Today he is one of London’s boldest flower designers. http://www.inwaterflowers.co.uk

Isabel Marías (Elisabeth Blumen) (Madrid, Spain, 1978) She studied Fashion Design at the Escuela Superior de Diseño de Madrid and was fully devoted to fashion for several years, designing her own collection and working for designers such as Matthew Williamson, Juan Duyos and Sybilla. Yet she felt something was missing: flowers. She opened her first florist’s in 2010 and, under her signature Elisabeth Blumen line, currently works for labels and institutions such as Loewe, Balenciaga, Repsol, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, the Sorolla Museum, MNCARS and Microsoft. She has been the creative director of LOEWE Flores since 2016. Her surprising colour combinations are part of her personal hallmark, which also features the concept of delicacy. www.elisabethblumen.com

Loose Leaf Wona Bae (Muahn, South Korea, 1976) Charlie Lawler (Hobart, Australia) When Wona and Charlie met in Germany – she was taking a Master’s course in floristry and he was working at the United Nations – the floral art world gained a pair of artists determined to introduce nature into our lives. Their “botanical design” studio, in a former warehouse in Melbourne, is a magical place for natural experimentation. Everything Loose Leaf creates is a result of observation of Nature. Beyond their famous “Monstera chandeliers”, those marvellous hanging installations of monsters and palm tree leaves that have made them so highly acclaimed, Charlie and Wona’s proposals always encourage us to reconnect with Nature. looseleafstore.com.au

Natasha Lisitsa & Daniel Schultz (Waterlily Pond) Colouristic, cheerful and with a taste for the stunning, Natasha Lisitsa and Daniel Schultz, a couple from the United States, have filled more than 1500 weddings and other events with flowers and have created floral installations at museums such as the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and the de Young Museum. Their large-scale work is particularly impressive (some of their installations have weighed up to 1000 kg). Natasha, an engineer by training, contributes her knowledge of flowers in creating lively, intense stories (her style has been described as “exuberant ikebana”), while Daniel, an architect, is inspired by modern art and architecture to create new spaces and surprising structures. waterlilypond.com

Patrick Nadeau (La Rochelle, France, 1955) The work of this architect with a passion for plants and flowers falls under the label of “vegetal design”. He is also known for his teaching work, as research lecturer at the ESAD de Reims where he created the first vegetal design studio in an art school in Europe. His installations mix material from nature with artificial elements, endeavouring to introduce the natural element into our lives (he designs wonderful pots and stands for interior plants). Contemporary Art Foundation, Elle Déco, Hermès and Kenzo-Parfums are a few of his customers. He has been artistic director of the French firm, Laorus, since 2016.

http://www.patricknadeau.com

Tomas De Bruyne (Bruges, Belgium, 1970) Boasting a long list of awards in floral art competitions, he also participates as a panel member. In addition to his work as a floral artist, he is an outstanding instructor and has published important work in the world of flowers. In 2013, he created and patented his own variety of Gloriosa lily, or climbing lily: Gloriosa Tomas De Bruyne. For this reason, and because of how spectacular, though also delicate, his work typically is, he is one of the best-known floral artists on the international scene. http://www.tomasdebruyne.com

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katiedodgshun81 · 7 years

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International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain

http://ift.tt/2ieU1tQ

The patio assigned to each artist, the jury and other news will be revealed during the press conference to present the festival, which is going to be held in Córdoba on 28th September.

The characteristic festival prize is being designed by the prestigious Spanish jewellery brand Gold & Roses, widely linked to the art world and to locally and traditionally manufactured art .

BIOGRAPHIES OF THE EIGHT ARTISTS IN FLORA

cosmosflores.blogspot.com.es

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sarahdraimanflowerpouch · 7 years

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International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain

http://ift.tt/2ieU1tQ

The patio assigned to each artist, the jury and other news will be revealed during the press conference to present the festival, which is going to be held in Córdoba on 28th September.

The characteristic festival prize is being designed by the prestigious Spanish jewellery brand Gold & Roses, widely linked to the art world and to locally and traditionally manufactured art .

BIOGRAPHIES OF THE EIGHT ARTISTS IN FLORA

cosmosflores.blogspot.com.es

http://ift.tt/NUXDMT

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lifestylebean · 8 years

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New Post has been published on Lifestylebean

New Post has been published on http://www.lifestylebean.com/best-fashion-trends-looks-summer/

Best 7 Fashion Trends and Looks for Summer 2017

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Spring/summer time 2017’s the latest fashions have stylists, buyers, editors and other people who’ve interested super-duper, spin-around-your-closet excited. Why? Well, this is an inherently upbeat season. In the many no-holds-barred interpretations around the 1980s (think lamé, jumbo frills, shoulders, jewellery and legs) towards the most saturated colour pattern we have observed in ten years (fuschia, scarlet, heliotrope, hazmat, more fuschia!), pleasure is oozing of all the stitch and each seam. Even stripes and florals-individuals two trusty support beams from the summer time print selection-have returned with increased bite, more verve and much more tempting iterations to help you reconsider and appear two times.

The spirit of the ’80s continues through the runway’s adoption from the more literal aesthetic codes along with the decade’s DIY culture this can be a season in which you result in the rules. Wish to be a punk princess within the countless see-through, peekaboo dresses designers have dreamed in clouds of tulle and embroidery? You’ll be the able to every day. Fancy the thought of putting on whatever, whenever and nevertheless, you imagine it for the reason that moment? Then your radical mix ‘n’ match styling seen at probably the most influential fashion brands on the market provides you with the arrogance to do this. Céline’s Phoebe Philo even went to date regarding send her models in mismatched footwear. Who understood?

So maybe you have thought that warm-weather trends were foreseeable as hell (yes, many of us yawn when maritime rears its seafaring mind), this can enhance your outlook forever more. Keep studying to find out our edit in the seven most critical Spring/Summer time 2017 clothes that will shape your wardrobe Keep studying to find out our edit in the seven most critical Spring/Summer time 2017 clothes that will shape your wardrobe into a happy place…

From Left to Right: Balenciaga, Roland Mouret, Max Mara, Emilia Wickstead, 3.1 Phillip Lim

Style Notes: In the S/S 17 shows, you’ll have seen more fashion editors putting on shades inside than in the past. Well, whenever you see this rainbow of runway exits, are you able to blame them?

Pink and a lot of it performed a really bold area of the Paris Fashion Week schedule, with the kind of Balenciaga, Céline and Valentino all using the most shocking shades of the pretty hue for modest dresses. Without frills, prints or flirty detailing, the strength of pink was obvious to determine.

But when that is not your vibe, choose in the multicolour closet of S/S 17. From Kermit eco-friendly to sunshine yellow, there’s just one rule: Put on Plenty of it.

Take a look at what colours to put on together this year with this handy guide!

From Left to Right: Moschino, Isabel Marant, Rodarte, Saint Laurent, Haider Ackermann

Style Notes: Have you not believe us last season? We predicted the ’80s trend wasn’t any passing one, and also the proof was all around the S/S 17 catwalks. If Isabel Marant-our hired queen of boho-has walked into the arena of high-shine fabrics and draped volume, you realise this is not ten years dip to become overlooked.

The essence from the new ’80s redux really is based on after-dark wares. You most likely will not find a lot of the atmosphere filtering into daywear, but with regards to heading out, there’s much to experience with, from silhouette-enhancing nipped waists attached with giant belts to flirty hemlines balanced out by big shoulders. Very earrings and sky-high stilettos are key with no one did all of them with more ferociousness than Saint Laurent’s new creative director, Anthony Vaccarello.

From Left to Right: Marques’Almeida, Chloé, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Erdem

Style Notes: “Florals? For spring? The groundbreaking” recipes everyone that has viewed The Demon Wears Prada ever. Well, really, now, they are real. So red in colouration, scale, fabrication and mood that designers thought it better to go full throttle entirely blooms from mind to foot-footwear incorporated.

From double doses of Rococo-style jacquard florals with ruffles and raw hems at Marques’Almeida to subdued, blousy ’70s bouquets at Chloé and neon carnations at Balenciaga, there’s nothing standard about these plans. No ditsy prints within this S/S 17 form of the style trend, thanks.

See our help guide to putting on mind-to-foot florals here.

From Left to Right: Gucci, Altuzarra, Miu Miu, Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel

Style Notes: Inspired unquestionably by Gucci opening the doorways for an everyday type of eccentricity, many designers are pushing forward with the idea of the combine. In the event that sounds daunting, you shouldn’t be afraid. There is something inherently wearable concerning the new wave of eclecticism, and you will frequently discover that individual pieces are entirely simple to put on around the regular. Take Dolce setting jeans against a madcap mixture of bejewelled accessories, trophy jacket and motif tee-an excellent going-out outfit.

How to overcome this effortlessly? A rigid colour pattern can help, but otherwise, just consider accessorising towards the max: Begin to see the way Miu Miu’s blue coat is lifted into further gloriousness using a printed stole, tinted frames and lilac platforms?

Learn to assemble combine outfits with this handy guide.

From Left to Right: Dior, Osman, Molly Goddard, Valentino, Rochas

Style Notes: The see-through dress ruled supreme working in London. Well, inside a city in which the lines between party outfits and day-to-day looks are forever blurred, it seems sensible. LFW wunderkind Molly Goddard brought those together with her confections of pastel-hued tulle and also the trend ongoing well into Paris. We fantasised within the balletic ensembles under Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut Dior collection-Bella Hadid continues to be the very first on an outing putting on them, overall game girl.

Just how to put on this semi-opaque spring/summer time 2017 fashion essential? First of all, remember this can be a million (pretty-punk) miles from the A-list world’s “naked dress” obsession. You wouldn’t want tight, and also you don’t the want modesty-saving embellishment because you will be layering up. It is also determined by how fearlessly you’ll dare to reveal. Ensure that it stays casual by flinging a gossamer-light sheer slip-of-a-factor over jeans along with a tee, or go the entire nine yards and elegance by helping cover they’re a flash of giant knickers. The second isn’t a formula for work, but it’s a quick track to feeling au courant, without a doubt.

Check out our edit of the best see-through dresses you can buy now.

From Left to Right: Loewe, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Stella McCartney, Hermès

Style Notes: Just don’t refer to it as minimalistic. There’s a lot more towards the catwalk’s beautiful antithesis to all the mix ‘n’ match madness we have already spoken out. This make of purism comes equipped with subtle details to create the simplest item (have a sweater, for instance) appear such as the most enjoyable factor you have ever seen.

From tactile fabrics (micro-pleats right through to earthy, luxe, comfortable hessian) designers from J.W.Anderson to Stella McCartney also have performed with volume, shape along with a seriously practical spectrum of utilitarian colours which go with literally all you own already. In case your fashion approach happens to be “less is much more, joinIjoins the gang.

From Left to Right: Delpozo, Pringle of Scotland, Mulberry, Proenza Schouler, Mary Katrantzou

Style Notes: The graphic, blocky, mind-boggling begin to the stripe parade for spring/summer time 2017’s fashion trend offering began in early stages, with nearly every major designer in New You are able to select this his or her pattern of the day. Proenza Schouler’s chopped-up, highly Instagrammable take will certainly feature inside a 1000 and something fashion editorials for that coming season, basically, we predict a shopping riot for that collegiate stripes pumped out by Johnny Coca around the Mulberry runway during LFW.

If flower-print wearers appear dedicated, don’t believe there’s less of the obsession with regards to these alternative lines-designers were focused on also styling these from mind to foot too. Obviously, you are greater than thanks for visiting nod towards the trend having a natty striped knit or perhaps a barcoded set of heels, but we all do such as this full-steam-ahead attitude.

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#2017 spring summer fashion trends #fashion 2017 casual #spring summer 2017 fashion trend forecast #spring summer 2017 trend report #summer fashion 2017 pinterest #summer fashion tips #summer fashion trends 2017 #Fashion

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dawnajaynes32 · 7 years

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International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain

http://festivalflora.com/

The patio assigned to each artist, the jury and other news will be revealed during the press conference to present the festival, which is going to be held in Córdoba on 28th September.

The characteristic festival prize is being designed by the prestigious Spanish jewellery brand Gold & Roses, widely linked to the art world and to locally and traditionally manufactured art .

BIOGRAPHIES OF THE EIGHT ARTISTS IN FLORA

cosmosflores.blogspot.com.es

http://www.patricknadeau.com

International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain syndicated post

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dawnajaynes32 · 7 years

Text

International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain

http://festivalflora.com/

The patio assigned to each artist, the jury and other news will be revealed during the press conference to present the festival, which is going to be held in Córdoba on 28th September.

The characteristic festival prize is being designed by the prestigious Spanish jewellery brand Gold & Roses, widely linked to the art world and to locally and traditionally manufactured art .

BIOGRAPHIES OF THE EIGHT ARTISTS IN FLORA

cosmosflores.blogspot.com.es

http://www.patricknadeau.com

International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain syndicated post

0 notes

dawnajaynes32 · 7 years

Text

International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain

http://festivalflora.com/

The patio assigned to each artist, the jury and other news will be revealed during the press conference to present the festival, which is going to be held in Córdoba on 28th September.

The characteristic festival prize is being designed by the prestigious Spanish jewellery brand Gold & Roses, widely linked to the art world and to locally and traditionally manufactured art .

BIOGRAPHIES OF THE EIGHT ARTISTS IN FLORA

cosmosflores.blogspot.com.es

http://www.patricknadeau.com

International Flower Festival FLORA| 20 – 29 October in Córdoba, Spain syndicated post

0 notes