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#and also saying stuff like ''well aCtUaLly stalin and lenin did so much good for your country you should be grateful''
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tankies on here will act like they’re the most oppressed group on earth but the moment someone says that hey, maybe we shouldn’t worship stalin/lenin/mao etc. they literally start sending death threats to people istg
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apas-95 · 2 years
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Maybe this ask is inconvenient and you really can ignore this if you wish to, and sorry, also. So, I grew up in a family with a very communist father that partook in communist parties and stuff during the dictatorship, which huhh to say it influenced my current world views in an understatement. Regardless, I don’t want to make you read a page about my dad (for obvious reasons), the thing is, I grew up seeing communists who I judged to be radical that pretty much disliked Stalin (and Trotsky, apparently, since my dad was talking shit about him some days ago), and therefore, I grew up believing “well, if he is hated even by the biggest (and some times kinda annoying) communists that I ever met, then he must have been absolutely horrible”. Now, it is incredibly stupid of little old me to go to some person on the internet and ask for advise or recommendations, but now I’m curious, how can I know “The good the bad and the ugly” of Stalin? The question sounds kinda stupid but it’s like, I want to read about the guy. I will say, I am terrified of falling into suicide radicalization (specially since I live in a southern country that lives with the effects of imperialism and dictatorships to this day), but I also want to have better ideas on stuff. I hope this makes sense.
Anyways, you have any reading recommendations? Ones that have a balance of information, criticism and idk praise? I am thinking about reading Rosa Luxembourg’s works, but yeah, that’s kinda it besides my current “to read” list. Anyways, thank you for the attention if you read this.
So, as a quicker read, I'd suggest 'On The Question of Stalin':
The Communist Party of China has consistently held that Stalin did commit errors, which had their ideological as well as social and historical roots. It is necessary to criticize the errors Stalin actually committed, not those groundlessly attributed to him, and to do so from a correct stand and with correct methods. But we have consistently opposed improper criticism of Stalin, made from a wrong stand and with wrong methods. [...] Stalin’s merits and mistakes are matters of historical, objective reality. A comparison of the two shows that his merits outweighed his faults. He was primarily correct, and his faults were secondary. In summing up Stalin’s thinking and his work in their totality, surely every honest Communist with a respect for history will first observe what was primary in Stalin. Therefore, when Stalin’s errors are being correctly appraised, criticized and overcome, it is necessary to safeguard what was primary in Stalin’s life, to safeguard Marxism-Leninism, which he defended and developed.
A longer work more deeply going into Stalin's history is Ludo Martens' book 'Another View of Stalin'.
A snappier, but perhaps less informative read is Domenico Losurdo's book.
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anonymoustalks · 4 years
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idk if lenins polcy of bruning churches was good but you have to have soem kind of athiest government
(6-20-20) You both like politics.
You: hi
Stranger: hi
Stranger: ideology?
You: moderate left
You: you?
Stranger: far left
Stranger: uk
You: ahh kay
You: why do you like omegle?
Stranger: er dunno just fun to chat without consequences i guess
You: mhm that's fair
You: I like to hear about what other ppl think
Stranger: yh and argueing
You: haha I don't really argue that much
Stranger: some people arnt worth ur time
You: mhm maybe
You: where are you from?
Stranger: uk^^
You: I'm from the us
Stranger: noice
You: and I'm totally ignorant of british politics lol
Stranger: i know a little bit about america
You: how does your government work?
Stranger: cos its the centre of the world
You: sorry if this is a really dull question
Stranger: its fine ill asnwer w my limited understanding
You: I just ran into someone who was praising the monarchy
Stranger: pfft
Stranger: haha
Stranger: so basically above everyone we have a queen who approves certain stuff and has the ability to interjec tin products but msotly doesn then you have the unlected house of lords which is aristocrats recommended by other rich ppl and below that the ppl elected
Stranger: we have a prime minister so he doesnt have the same powers as president
Stranger: but hes more powerful than other pm's
You: mhm
You: the house of lords...
Stranger: yep
You: is the aristocracy still a big thing in the uk?
Stranger: its just like the senate in the usa except not elected and idk probaably
You: how does someone get recommended to the house of lords?
Stranger: be rich adn good at something or know someone whos rich
You: ahh I think it's weird that it's so closely tied to wealth
Stranger: not really the uk ruling class make it prtty obvious to us peasnts that its a ruling class fake democracy
Stranger: unlike the usa where everybody is supposed classless
You: right
You: I guess that's a fair statement
Stranger: but yeah fuck the queen
Stranger: how was the guy defedning monarchy?
You: oh he sounded kind of weird
You: like how god and the monarchy is essential for uk's stability and being
Stranger: pfft
You: he didn't really explain much
Stranger: both are irelevant nowadays
You: just pointed out that france and us are chaotic, according to him because there is no monarchy
Stranger: oh yeah thats totally
Stranger: why
You: yeah lol
Stranger: if only they had a monarchy then there owuld be no class and racial conflict
You: so how far left are you?
Stranger: very far
You: anarchist?
Stranger: nope left communist
Stranger: basically anti stalinist communist
You: what does your ideal government look like?
Stranger: well until you have a relatively stateless socialism you have a dictatorship of the proleterait
Stranger: and that has an armed population as the army and has direct democracy and a representive democracy who are payed wages simualr to that of a workmans
Stranger: in brief
You: mhm and membership has a criteria that you must be working class?
Stranger: membership of the democratic process yep
Stranger: a worker
You: mhm
Stranger: not necearily poor
You: what is the exact definition of working class btw?
Stranger: sombody who doesnt own and live off capitlist property
Stranger: or is a cpatilsit in other respects
Stranger: like an investor
Stranger: businessmen landlords and bankers
You: hmm I feel like it's hard for me to draw parallels
You: I know a pharmacist friend
You: who rents his place
You: for extra cash
Stranger: well when we have the revolution i doubt he'll be locked up or anything but youknow
Stranger: hes just a small landlord i guess
Stranger: supplemetning work income
You: so would people just discouraged from doing that kind of stuff?
Stranger: well hosuing will be nationalised as an early step
Stranger: so you wont have to
You: mhm
Stranger: making rent equal to bills
You: my parents also have investments
You: for like retirement
You: and just in general
Stranger: sure
You: was curious what would happen to those
Stranger: well i mean by investor sombody who is rich and does it for a job
You: ah kay
Stranger: the socialsit pension ting will be good anyhow
You: mhm
You: do you think that's it necessary for the world to follow this model? Or do you think that it can still work with just a communist state on it's own?
Stranger: nah for a lot of reasons you cant have it in one or a few states surrounded by cpaitlsit ones
Stranger: for one a DOTP surrounded by cpatilist states is forced to act like one to compete
Stranger: and therefore exploit other countries and its own labourers to the max
You: right, I was curious about that actually
Stranger: that was trotsky's argument
You: mhm
Stranger: he said u cant have 'socialsism in one country' because you have to first have international DOTP
You: dotp stands for?
Stranger: or you just become a state cpaitlist state like stalin
You: dictatorship of the prol.?
Stranger: dictatorship of the proletariat
Stranger: yep
You: mhm, that makes a lot of sense
Stranger: yep
Stranger: DOTP being when workers hold the state but not the economy
Stranger: the economy is still in private hands
You: right
You: I think I mix up all the varieties of socialism and communism
Stranger: yh DOTP isnt so much a variety but a transition
Stranger: from cpaitlism to socialism/com
You: mhm
You: I feel like I think about human nature cynically
Stranger: oh go on
You: as in, I'm skeptical of being satisfied with equality
You: *ppl being
Stranger: well tehy certainly arnt satified by inequality so how bad can it really get?
You: mhm true
Stranger: we dont mean absolute equality
Stranger: just equality of opporutunity to realise ur best self
You: idk if this is school bias or anything, but when we learn about communism, it's often framed that the party just ends up with all the wealth
You: or power
Stranger: theres a reason that idea of so called communism is taught rlly
Stranger: mainly cos of porpaganda but theres some truth
Stranger: under lenin the state was definitely a semi deictatorship of a few workers parties
Stranger: but with a democratic mechanism and worker councils to elect them
You: hm
You: *mhm
Stranger: with the intention of educating a largely illitarate peasant russia into a democratic socialsit society
Stranger: but after the vicotry of stalin after lenins death, whatever redistribution of power was dropped and centrlasing power in the party and in stalin was the priority
You: right
Stranger: so there is a history to it
You: I feel like I was thought that there was a component of ideological purity -- like, if you expressed greater loyalty to the party, you could get more stuff
You: like better food tickets or cars or stuff
You: *taught
Stranger: sure teh soviet union during and after stalin was definitely a class society
You: mhm, how do you avoid class from rearising?
Stranger: you dont centralise power in bureacracy
Stranger: and make it mroe acoutnable
Stranger: you arm the popualtion
Stranger: make durable directly democratic mechanisms
Stranger: accountability at all level
You: so you're saying like enshrining freedom of speech / freedom of arms in the system?
Stranger: im not a freedom of speech absolutist but sure
Stranger: its very important
You: wasn't China kinda of freedom of speech until tianmensquare, were they?
Stranger: ha no
Stranger: you got tortured if you spoke out
You: ah kay
Stranger: same as soviet union really
Stranger: mao wasnt masively different
You: I'm just thinking of the blm protests in the US
Stranger: yh
You: when ppl feel like change isn't happening
You: then they can get violent
Stranger: yep
You: was just curious how your government would handle that
Stranger: well the governmetn and the people are intrinsically merged
Stranger: but it depends like waht the situation would be
You: mhm I mean technically there's universal suffrage in the US but not everyone votes
Stranger: yep
Stranger: electoral college too
You: and I think minority parties can sometimes be the loudest and most opinionated
Stranger: yh
You: so even with a proletariat government I think there might still be disagreement
Stranger: yh
Stranger: for sure
Stranger: and debate
Stranger: whats ur point
You: mhm idk
Stranger: aight sitl idk the answers
You: yeah it's interesting
Stranger: what are u taught abotu socialism in schools
You: mhm, I guess just the things I said?
You: I think we studied east germany and the ussr
Stranger: ah k
Stranger: yep
You: what life was like
You: to live there
Stranger: sure and if you trying and feed everyone this is waht happens type shite
Stranger: you cant be nice with the economy
You: mhm I don't think my teachers tried to make extremely biased conclusions or anything
You: but the curriculum itself could be biased I think
Stranger: k yeah same
Stranger: yeah fr
Stranger: we dont learn at all about the british empire
You: yup
Stranger: like not once
Stranger: or really any british history beyond knights and castles
You: actually in world history class my teacher commented that I was beginning to sound "anti-american" lol
Stranger: haha good
Stranger: anti american what a word
Stranger: being anti imperialist and anti racist is being anti british too
You: lol
Stranger: tells u what they think about britishness
Stranger: its not culture but power
Stranger: which is a load of bs
You: mhm
Stranger: what did you say to teacher
You: idk I'm not very nationalist
You: I didn't say anything, I'm not really the kind of person to argue
Stranger: neither but i like uk just not enough to block refugees to preserve it
Stranger: like some wacko patriots are
You: mhm
Stranger: they act like the uks not been 15% non white since like 1940
You: mhm
You: what do you think of their opinion that a country should have a right to control their own culture/ethnicities?
Stranger: erm
Stranger: well thats tough
Stranger: i think the ideal of direct dmeocracy and a reactioanry population is contradictory
Stranger: and therefore maybe u need more centralised leadership there
You: I think I heard a scenario of belgium or something wanting to block the construction of mosques in like a historical district or something
You: to preserve their national culture/history
Stranger: yep idk
You: yeah idk either
Stranger: but like how would direct democrayc work in somalia
Stranger: or saudi arabia
Stranger: thats a tough question
Stranger: would men use it to repress women
You: mhm yup
You: or well, there are several states that have a democracy
Stranger: its like india was basically a dicatroship for its first 20 years
You: and they voted to impose state religion
You: state religious laws
You: that kind of thing
Stranger: basically cos it would be a bloodbath
Stranger: of relgion and caste
Stranger: so the governmetn had to go against the people to do whats the long term good
You: I think it's sometimes hard to have foresight about what the "long term good" is though
You: like everybody things they are doing things for long term good
You: *thinks
Stranger: well in indias caste removing caste racism and relgious bigotry was a big thing
Stranger: and many people died due to it
You: mhm
You: I think it's really hard for me to know what is "right"
Stranger: and i think general equality is a good thing impose against a population
Stranger: if they dont want it
Stranger: thats the only way change has ever come
You: mhm although I think indoctrination is always possible
Stranger: eh
You: I mean, this is kind of a hot take, but Western values are indoctrinated
Stranger: yeahthey are
You: similarly speaking you could indoctrinate capitalistic values or communist values
Stranger: some are right some are wrong
Stranger: not succesfully
You: and I think the ppl who grow up with whatever they are indoctrinated with are generally happy
You: and support the views they grow up with
Stranger: yeah true
You: although I think it's sad for whoever gets left out of the system
Stranger: like anti deisicimination laws are passed despite a population
Stranger: for a long term good
You: mhm
You: yeah idk governments are hard haha
Stranger: haha yes
Stranger: thats why were still talking about it
You: mhm
You: I don't really know what to think about ppl who support religious states
You: like indonesia has that problem
Stranger: theyre idiots
You: like they want their state to become religious
Stranger: ik snd prolly will
You: but if I imagine myself in their shoes
You: I think they just want to be closer to their religion
You: which is like a personal value
You: like I'm secular, so things like freedom and equality mean a lot to me
Stranger: truw
You: but I can also imagine a different world were idk god and faith matter a lot to me
You: we have pretty significant freedom of religion battles in the us
Stranger: same]
Stranger: if i didnt grow up in suhc an athiest school and get bullied for it id be hardcore jesus
You: oh your family is religious?
Stranger: yep
You: mhm I was reading about the us lgbt anti-discrimination ruling earlier
Stranger: yeah
You: the religious schools here are worried about being affected
You: like they don't want to hire gay teachers
Stranger: good
You: bc they're a religious school
Stranger: get w the program schools
Stranger: idk if lenins polcy of bruning churches was good but you have to have soem kind of athiest government
You: mhm I think anti-discrimination is good, but I feel like I can understand their resistance of feeling like they can't teach their religion the way they want
Stranger: sure yeah
You: idk most things I don't know what to think lol
Stranger: but think about if they dont get agy teachers
Stranger: anti discimination laws dont work
You: hm?
Stranger: cos u can jsut say u didnt disciminate and taht it
You: ohh no it still matters
You: like imagine you are a religious school
You: and a pastor applies and says they are a gay priest
You: and you don't want to hire them
You: they can sue bc discrimination
Stranger: maybe but its a relgious school why u even applying
You: mhm some ppl kind of want to change christianity I think
You: like there are pastors who are much more sympathetic to lgbt
Stranger: eh still
Stranger: lictus and that
Stranger: levictus
You: yeah idk
You: most of the churches in my area are pro-lgbt
Stranger: pretty sure my preist is closeted
You: aww
Stranger: hes very camp
You: camp ?
Stranger: and went to cambridge
Stranger: femenine
You: ahh
Stranger: yep
You: yeah religion is an odd place in politics for me
You: like it's often at the root of weird stuff
Stranger: oh yeah
Stranger: are u relgious
You: that runs counter to like modern science common sense
You: no
You: well, I'm like 20% spiritual I guess
You: but I'm not religious
Stranger: yep
Stranger: never got the difference
You: between spiritual and religious?
Stranger: yep
You: oh, for me, religious is like adhering to a religion, or denomination, or religious practice
You: spiritual is like vaguely believe in something
You: *belieiving
You: without doing anything about it
You have disconnected.
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pridge · 6 years
Text
To Hanoi and beyond - the end of the tour and finishing up in Vietnam
Once again I’ve lost track of when I last wrote….and am also not online thanks to Starbucks only allowing 30 mins connection and me now being checked out of my hotel! So we will see where this goes and there may be some repetition!!
I fly back home to the UK tonight. Whatever possessed me to book an 11pm flight I don’t know….as bit hard even lugging one small bag around Hong Kong. But I have spent several hours by the pool, in the shade, enjoying the last of the heat and devouring the 4th book in a series I only started a couple of weeks back. Thank god for Kindle!! As much as I hate the slow erosion of the traditional book industry, as I love books and the smell of new books, I also love the convenience and the access it gives authors to get published.
So, the two week tour is over. We finished off in Hanoi, after some more great visits and fun times. The diverse group, and Ha our tour guide, really did make it good fun. Hanoi, as the capital and with a different history to Saigon, really is very different. Although I have to admit to only really seeing the old city. Having forgone the final train to fly up to Hanoi alongside two of my fellow travellers, I awoke in my air-con hotel room for a quick jaunt to the hotel we were staying at as a group. They looked better than I would if I’d had another night “sleep” on a train where the beds seem to be designed to be 2 inches too short for me – and thus very uncomfortable. Thus my decision to fly! Plus flight was £40 and door to door took 5 hours or so….rather than 12 hours on the train.
Having regrouped, we were led off for a walk through Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. Having not yet in my life visited an in-use mausoleum, I’ve seen a few empty ancient ruined ones, I really didn’t know what to expect. So how to describe it. Well, Ho Chi Minh is clearly, and understandably, a national hero in Vietnam. He was the leader against the French colonialist power, and then against the Americans and what was seen (probably justifiably) as the puppet government in the south. So he is held on a very high pedestal. He was a fascinating man – having travelled the world in his younger years including Paris where he grew many of his communist ideas, as well as New York and London. He also it seems spent time in Russia, but sadly didn’t get to meet Lenin (who had recently passed away to be replaced by that template of all dictators – Stalin). Anyway, Ho Chi Minh it seems lived a simple life whilst leading the country (although maybe not as celibate at the Vietnamese creationg “myth” would like you to believe). And as such he is central to the modern Vietnam political and national culture.
So what is a mausoleum you ask….well look it up. But they generally contain the bodies of the dead so people can still visit them. To give you an idea of what this means….current main mausoleums around the world are for Chairman Mao in China, Lenin in Russia (Stalin was removed in the early 1990’s), and I think the first great leader of North Korea. Essentially the bodies are preserved, although no-one seems clear how, so that visitors can pay their respects. The preservation seems to be a closely guarded secret of Russia, who kicked off the modern trend – which kind of makes sense having abolished religion they replaced it with leader worship….what is it with us humans! There is also some speculation as to whether we are actually seeing the bodies or some spectacular fakes. Anyway, it was fascinating.
After a long long queue – I thought Harry Potter Ride at Disney was a long queue – but very well organised by the ceremonial soldiers in their crisp white uniforms – we did get inside. Oh, I should also say there are two queues. One for the public….and another for little schoolkids – of which there were hundreds of 5-7 year olds queuing up with their teachers to visit! I cannot imagine why a one party state would want to do that….oh well besides the obvious early indoctrination.
We then entered the mausoleum, and were ordered to stay silent and respectful, and had to enter two by two, a little like boarding the arc. And there he was – laying there looking very peaceful and chilled (literally as his body is in a sealed temperature controlled box). The site of the mausoleum itself is fascinating – as it is on the site of where Ho Chi Minh lived whilst leader and then elder statesman of Vietnam. It had his simple dwellings where he lived – which the thousands of tourists all got to visit. The mausoleum is also opposite the national assembly building – which is the heart of the Vietnamese parliament and government. I do need to check out how a parliament works in a one party communist state. But the symbolism is very evident.
On that note….I think I have mentioned this before. But a communist country where health care and school has to be paid for. And there is a very free market economy. Just odd. Again, I need to understand more before really commenting.
Anyway having been to Ho Chi Land, sorry I mean the venerated late leaders mausoleum (I probably won’t ever be allowed back into Vietnam once I post this!!), the group all went and did our own thing. The rest of this will be somewhat out of order as I try and capture key moments.
The Hanoi Hilton – the old French colonial prison, converted first to a POW camp for American pilots, and now into a “museum”. And I say museum in the loosest sense. It is more a memorial to the many deaths caused by the fight against colonial rule and interference whilst gaining independence. There is probably no doubt the French were harsh with their dissidents at the time. What I struggled with was the portrayal of it as some form of great place to keep American prisoners. When the facts of the situation were many were tortured, left disabled and without proper medical treatment and scared for life. Not actually the basketball, table tennis and relaxed environment it was painted out to be. Maybe this is part of the whole reconciliation with the past and with the USA, not to dwell on this side of it. I just found it rather disingenuous after the relatively well put together other museums I’d seen in Vietnam.
The Women’s Museum on the other hand was great. A very well put together celebration and insight into the important role of women in Vietnamese history and culture. Whether their roles in the family and society, or in the independence struggle, or contribution to art and politics. This was a respectful and enjoyable museum that also gave further insight into the various other ethnic cultures that make up Vietnam as a whole.
It was in Hanoi as well that I had my first egg coffee. And I have to say it surpassed what I expected. I am now torn between that and coconut coffee as my current favourite coffee. I am not clear how it is made, but something to do with either the egg whites….or the egg yolks? Coffee, obviously. Sugar maybe….anyway it was amazing. I have a book being delivered by Amazon for when I get home on coffee and how to brew it, make it etc – and have also ordered Vietnamese coffee makers. So I will be experimenting.
It was from Hanoi that two of the highlights of the tour, if not my whole trip came. Firstly the homestay in the hills (mountains in the UK) about 4-5 hours drive outside Hanoi. After heavy rain the night before we were all a bit unsure how this would play out – especially after a number of eventful elements. Our little bus, which on the roads out here counted over 20,000 steps in the journey – it was that bumpy – coped well with the rain. I think we were all having a few doubts though – our first toilet stop allowed us to watch some torrential rain from under cover – before the whole thing early fell apart when our route was blocked because, well the bridge or road had kind of washed away and was now essentially a fast flowing waterfall. Our driver and Ha found a way round this, and we proceeded higher in the mountains.
Many really enjoyed this bit – with the sheer drops and the beautiful scenery. I just sweated as I hid on the other side of the bus. My fear of heights is something I really wish I didn’t have. It stops me doing a lot of stuff part of me would like to do – but I know I just don’t have the courage to push myself to do. I love a good adrenalin rush – but getting to these things seems to involve journeys that just make me terrified and sick. So I am not sure of the upside of it. Anyway, as we got into the mountains we then got stuck due to a recent rock slide. It had been largely cleared….phew….but then the bus got stuck on a number of large rocks. I literally couldn’t breathe as the bus first of all bounced over these boulders on this single track by a sheer drop….then got bloody stuck.
So we got out and started walking to the village, which luckily wasn’t far, whilst the driver remained to try and unstick it. Which he eventually did. We then got the village in the hills, and had another great local meal. There was some debate then as to whether to do our trek to the homestay. I had mixed feelings – it was hot and the weather a bit changeable. Also, I have to be honest and I was a bit worried about what heights I may have to contend with during it.
In the end we set-off on a 5km hike, which in reality I think was more like 7-8km. Which itself was very enjoyable. It was humid as anything – which meant everyone was drenched in sweat from the first steps, but it was overcast and we were thankful – as doing that in the 35 degrees and sun we had seen up to that point would have been terrible. Instead we had about 30 degrees and overcast – and this made for some amazing views of the valleys and the low clouds. It wasn’t a terribly tough walk in terms of terrain, there were some ups and downs, but nothing that felt death defying. In the end it was more than worth it for the serenity, the scenery and the exercise.
As we emerged from a gorge onto a pebbly beach by a large lake (in fact a reservoir) our boat was waiting for us to take us to the homestay. The journey to the homestay was pretty special as we chugged along on our boat. When I say boat, it was more like a large sardine tin with some of the can still there as a roof and a motor at the back. But it was delightful as we all realised we’d survived an exhausting trek, and needed food and beer. The homestay had that, and was so much more.
As we rounded out of another gorgeous valley formed by the reservoir we say where we were staying ahead of us. At the riverfront of a small village of a few hundred people they’d built a nice, but not luxurious, stilt house. We had hot showers. We had cold beer. We had great local food. Then we had some traditional dancing – which was both authentic (as in felt real, partly because it felt like the locals weren’t entirely practiced, but also friendly) and fun. We were asked if we could perform something from our culture – but our mix of Aussies, Brits, Canadian and Poles struggled to come up with anything that connected us, let alone that we could perform. Our ideas ranged from national anthems, to Saturday Night by Wigfield. We managed to get out of it by essentially making clear we were both lacking in talent and culture. It was interesting as in a village of 300 we probably had all the local girls dancing for us. This reminded me of my earlier concerns about tourist imperialism and ruination of local cultures. This real performance though, for tourists, was perhaps in this instance, a way of keeping their traditions and culture alive in the face of the westernisation going on across so much of Asia. I hope it never just turns into “another tourist attraction” for them though.
After a decent night sleep, maybe helped by rice wine, in the communal hut, we left with slightly heavy hearts after such beautiful surroundings and friendly people. We even met the village elder, who at 85 had moved to the village as a small child and never left. Weird thinking about how little had changed in her world beyond electricity and communication, whilst so much of the wider world went through so much in that period.
The boat trip then took 2 hours across this vast reservoir. It gave you a real feel for some of the local life though. They were clearly farming the forests, as shown by burnt out areas, and evidence of logging, but not in the chaotic way you might imagine. For every burnt out area, there was an area showing new or young growth. They clearly realise instinctively the need to sustain their resources, whilst they control them at least. All the while remaining so poor by western, and even Vietnamese city standards.
After returning to Hanoi and the chaos of the city streets that continued to bemuse and mystify some of my fellow travellers, our next major trip was to Ha Long Bay. Before that though, I must say something about the streets of Hanoi. It is a strange place in the old city. Each street seems to be its own shopping speciality – we were staying on what can best be described as hardware street – selling locks, chains, metal wheels, screws. If you walked round the corner you might find yourself in home lighting street, or zipper and tassle street, or home fabric street, or shoe street – or pretty much any street. It is charming – but also just so strange. How does having dozens of shops selling the same thing for a whole street make any sense? If you need a new padlock, you have to travel across the city to this one street to buy it – and all the shops are literally the same! So charming yes. Makes supply chain easy I suppose as wholesalers just have to deliver to one street. But makes no sense to me. Maybe I am searching for sense in things I shouldn’t be, and should just accept the difference of it all.
So Ha Long Bay. This was a real challenging experience. One of Vietnams main tourist attractions are the 140million year old islands that still out to create this bay, there are more than 1,000 of them. All largely uninhabited in this UNESCO world heritage site. As such there is a teaming port and hotel land being created to service it. Luckily the authorities have limited construction of new boats, which means at least it shouldn’t be getting any worse. As there are a LOT of boats and a LOT of tourists. Leaving the bay on our private boat felt a bit like leaving as part of some form of armada. Just one full of people with cameras!! This all felt somehow wrong to me. As we stormed out of the bay we headed for our first site – the largest caves in the islands.
Whilst sceptical, these caves were wonderful and also fun. By this point our merry little band of travellers had bonded somewhat and there was lots of laughter and childish behaviour as we went through the caves. Not helped by halfway through there being one rock formation that a local guide described to his elderly Japanese group as the “rifle rock”….now let me tell you  - it did not look much like a rifle. Frankly, it was an erect penis. Sticking out at 45 degrees and of a red hue of rock. Our group could barely contain our giggles after this. As we looked for more and more weird and wonderful sites in these beautiful caves, whilst Ha attempted to keep some semblance of order, and we frankly behaved like 6 year olds on a school trip without supervision.
The rest then climbed a massive hill, whilst I avoided getting stuck halfway up the steep and narrow walk and thus embarrassing myself, by relaxing on the sundeck of the boat all by myself. That evening we had yet more good local food – and then cracked on with karaoke. Not the widest selection of tunes, and everyone clearly agreed I really cannot sing (which I had told people before, but not everyone was at the last karaoke), but what I completely lack in talent I try and make up for in eagerness. Another enjoyable night before retiring to our frankly very nice little cabins.
And with that, and out of order, this last part of the tour was one, and we were finished with Hanoi. My journey isn’t quite over as I still have a couple of final days in Hong Kong to reflect on as well as the trip overall. But we had a very nice time as a group – and there were no arguments or fallings out. We had such a great mix of people from those who needed to know the plans to those who would just wander off. From those who had an avid interest in any market available, to a couple of us who essentially avoided markets like the plague (I’d seen enough of them by then). Everyone was kind, funny, intelligent and often sarcastic. The last night meal I actually found sadder than I expected, having been possibly the one who spent the most time going off on their own and doing their own thing (often just drinking coffee with a book). Would I do another tour – maybe. But certainly more likely than before. I did find the whole thing hard at times, as I’ve explained in previous blogs, and brought back memories that were both sweet and bit bitter at the same time. And wasn’t easy not having anyone I knew well enough to talk to about it – and not wanting to drag anyone else into my occasional melancholy either!! Maybe something I’ll touch on again in my final reflections when I write them!
And then just like that I am on a flight back to Hong Kong as I start to make my way home!
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