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#and it's pronounced in vietnamese very nearly the same
guzhuangheaven · 3 years
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Hello! I was watching Sword and Brocade (and loved it!) and the clothes were lovely. Can you please explain what the long outer garment is that the female lead (and all the married women in the marquis mansion) begins to wear once she is married as opposed to the short, waist length jacket she wears when she's unmarried? And can you walk us through the many layers underneath that long outer robe? Thank you, love your blog!
We know very little about Ming dynasty clothes, but the basic hanfu for Ming dynasty women is called aoqun. From this post by @ziseviolet
- Aoqun/袄裙 ...became fashionable during the Ming Dynasty. It consists of a double-layered top called “ao/袄“ and a waist-high skirt (”qun”), hence “aoqun”. Unlike the “standard” ruqun that has the top tucked inside the skirt, the aoqun’s top is worn untucked, above the skirt. There are two types of “ao” - “short ao” and “long ao”. The “short ao” reaches the waist, while the “long ao” covers the knees. Ao collars can be crossed, upright, or square. Only worn by women.
We also recommend consulting hanfu blogs like ziseviolet, @hanfu-asks @fouryearsofshades for specifics about hanfu. We know nothing. 
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So, above, the outermost layer that Shiyi Niang is wearing is a square-collar ao. I think the inner buttoned layer probably is an upright collar unlined top (shan/衫)? Probably? 
Ming dynasty women also wear a jacket called pifeng 披风. It is the outermost layer that Lianfang is wearing in the photo below. 
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The shorter jacket Shiyi Niang wears when she was unmarried is a bijia 比甲:
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Here are some Youtube video with English narration on cross-collar aoqun and how to wear it, upright collar, mamian qun, bijia. Here’s a video on different types of Ming dynasty women’s clothes. It has the name of the different types of clothes in Chinese characters which unfortunately doesn’t have English subtitles, but you can see the different styles and how they layer.
See also: Powerpoint on Ming dynasty fashion,  Evolution of the Traditional Chinese Dress
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lunisowu-blog · 5 years
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laughgreen4 · 2 years
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How Much Does Indian Marriage Ceremony Catering Cost In Dehradun By Digitalmafia
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gunmadlin · 2 years
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dheaamitaedi · 5 years
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That of A Miracle
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THE UNIVERSE HAS BETRAYED ME long before I knew the words to my favourite song, what my dreams were, knew the location of all the countries in the globe, and long before I had my period and declared to have entered womanhood. The universe has been unfair to me; throwing me obstacles I wouldn’t have had the chance to overcome at such a young age if not for my bottling-up nature, and being able to conceal my true feelings to anyone around me. My mother taught me on how to hide my feelings from the world.
Whenever I would cry, she would flick my ear for me to stop, and I would obey.
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God really does wonders.
MY FATHER WAS A FIRST-SECRETARIAT AT THE EMBASSY of Indonesia to Norway. He was stationed in Norway in February 1994. A very well-distinguished diplomat to its fellow colleagues. He was a hard worker, a true nationalist, a benevolent diplomat.
Being a diplomat; a representative of your country in a foreign land, is a very noble and renowned occupation. A great deal of diplomacy, communication skills, vast knowledge of world politics is needed. You don’t only need to have pride in your own nation but also respect other country’s culture, and norms and values.
But coming home from work he would be a different person. Angrier, much more impatient and crankier. As if the day's work was just a facade of his true feelings. Home was the only place where he could express his annoyance and exhaustion freely. And my mother was both a witness and victim of this other persona of his. Some days she would just yell out of sheer exasperation at my father's temperament.
She would then complain to the walls of the house as that was her only consolation.
Though now, every day after he got home from the embassy, he would have this joyous smile despite the hours he spent reviewing reports and sitting in front of the monitor, it would all be worth it at the end because this time next year a baby girl would be born. My baby girl. He thought. And he would finally be able to cradle me in his own loving arms. He would whisper the adzanin her ear. Whisper her the glorious name of Allah. Thank Him for this precious miracle He has given him. All the waiting and nervous glances whenever my mother came out of the bathroom with the pregnancy test without the two red-triped lines. Sighing heavily and just losing hope. That will all disappear because finally he will have a child. 14 years of waiting.
                                                            ❈  ❈  ❈
NO ONE KNEW what was going to unravel the following year in May, when spring ended yet the cold still seeped silently through the worn thick blankets and bedsheets of my parents’ bedroom. The New Order era was finally over and the dictator who led Indonesia for 32 years ceased to rule the country. The revolution to topple down Soeharto’s rule began in early 1998. There were communal violence encircling the entire archipelago of Indonesia; Jakarta, Ambon, Medan. Kerusuhan Mei 1998, the May 1998 riots, was a tragedy wherein there were mass demonstrations, civil unrest and these were all triggered by mass unemployment.
During that same year, in February, my parents were transferred back to Jakarta due to the dryness of the state’s budget. The state’s currency declined drastically: from 1 Dollar equivalent to 2,500 Rupiah, it dropped to 16,000 Rupiah. The country did not have money. Null.
When my parents returned, they had nowhere to stay. They were homeless.
So, my grandfather offered to lend them his house in Depok, it was more than enough. My mother was carrying a 3-month old foetus. They needed somewhere to stay.
Big cities such as Bandung, Medan—including the capital city, Jakarta—was filled with political demonstrations.
It was not a full-blown riot yet, but the tension was already deeply felt.
And a baby’s kicking in my mother’s womb was also deeply felt in the month of April, a month before Soeharto was succeeded by President B.J. Habibie, 3 months before I came to the world.
                                                            ❈  ❈  ❈
IN JANUARY 2002, my father was stationed in New Mexico City, his third diplomatic posting; my first. I was 3 years old when we packed our entire house into brown shipping boxes and moved all the way to the west hemisphere.
I was a minority in my school, the only Southeast Asian in my class, the only one whose native language was not Spanish. The only one who had trouble speaking any language at all for that matter. Yet I was considered the smartest. I was thriving in that school. I spoke fluent Spanish in a span of a year. I was able to surpass all of the Spanish native speakers in my class. I received praises from my teachers.
“Bravo Dhea! Tu es muy inteligente!”they exclaimed, heart-warmingly satisfied with me. Well done Dhea! You are very smart!
“Muchas gracias señorita!” I responded.
“I am so proud of you querida”
I was perhaps the happiest girl in the room.
I never received praises from my parents. I don’t remember them ever congratulating me for obtaining a perfect score on my Mexican History test nor when I received a sticker at the corner of the page of my story-telling paper.
It was only then, when my teacher approached me, that I was genuinely praised for something I did. And I was proud of being a minority.
The school I went to was a private school located nearby my apartment in Calle de Emerson. It only took approximately a 10-minute walk, and yet I was always marked tardy. My homeroom teacher would always scould me during morning assemblies.
“Dhea, come antes ocho.”Before eight. The daily language is Spanish and most of the students came from around Mexico or South America. My father enrolled me here due to the close proximity from the apartment.
What one of the things I liked about this school is that we got to go to the outskirts of town for Physical Education class since the school could not fit in every grade in the basketball court they owned. We were escorted by a huge bus. My grade consisted of nearly 35 students. It felt like a herd of cows being placed in a very cramped truck; so noisy with students chanting Spanish songs through the entire trip.
On the way back from the sports arena, my friends and I played a game of truth or dare. I chimed in even though I found the game just a tad stupid. A bunch of people absentmindedly admitting to doing whatever dare they were dared to do. I find it very odd. But it was fun to see the stupid things they would gladly do for fun and laughter.
I VOMITTED ON THE FLOOR OF THE BUS.
No one helped and instead I heard booming laughter.
My friend dared this girl named Carla to stick down her tongue down my throat and that was when I wanted to withdrew from the game because I didn’t want to.
She violently pinned my shoulders to my seat and swiftly and forcefully put her tongue all the way down my trachea and I could feel my feet flailing in the seat. It reminded me of that time my mum had to chase me down with a spoonful of antibiotics on her, and she finally caught up to me and forced it down my mouth. Except this was traumatising. I kept pushing her away from me until she finally removed herself from my mouth. It lasted for nearly 2 minutes.
Seeing this, Leonardo dared me something vicious and terrorizing.
He smirked.
I stayed silent the rest of the way back to school.
                                                                ❈ ❈ ❈
THE THING ABOUT ME IS that I will not open up to anyone even if you’ve gave birth to me, raised me, fed me, piggy-backed me, and swung me in the air. I would still not spill my darkest secrets or my traumas until you dig it out of me, unscrewed the rusted box you’ve found buried deep inside me with a machete, and lifted the long-listed sheet of paper filled with my despair.
But my parents never pried.
Nor did my friends.
They never asked. And I simply stayed silent. That’s how I became a very reserved girl at a very young age. I learnt to bottle-up as a premature habit.
I still remember that day on the bus on our way back from the sports arena somewhere near Polanco, as clearly as the summer skies of Tunis. Two countries later, and the memory still persists. I don’t remember every detail of my childhood in Mexico but it’s funny how the moments you try to forget are sometimes the one that clings in your head. Funny how the things you want to strip off your memory are the ones that cling so desperately and you’re unable to dispatch of it. And the things you want to remember are the ones that gradually fade away with time. Memories work in wondrous ways.
It’s been 9 years and I can still feel it.
His skin was smooth like a baby’s scalp.
I can still hear the unclasping of his belt as he removed his uniform and revealed dangling skin. And as he pulled his trousers down to the floor of the bus, he violently grabbed the back of my head and pushed me down so I would come mouth to mouth with his penis. Yes. That’s the word.
And my eyes would open wide with bewilderment. Tears formed at the edge of my eyes.
Back and forth.
Back and forth.
He would rock my head back and forth and a cunning, mischievous smile would form.
I SAW THE WAY MY DAD HELD ME in his arms from the album pictures; the way my blanket was draped around my little body, swaddled with love; the way my little fingers wrapped around my dad’s thumb just eloquently gripping with adoration; the way I buried my head in my dad’s chest smelling his fresh odour. Suddenly all of those things that I don’t remember came rushing in like a tsunami; unexpectedly and harshly. Inexistent memories to me yet existent to the very core to my dad.
Miracle baby.
A girl!
Mine.
Voices resonating my insides, trembling with uninhabited feelings, trying to wrangle me out of my subconscious. I remember the dishevelled hair when he wakes up, the way his footsteps reverberate through the walls of the house, how his bone structure shaped his broad shoulders, his tanned-to-dark skin that was always being shit-talked.
Twenty
Twenty-One
Twenty-Nine
White-round-tiny pills. The irony of overdosing on the medication that was prescribed to help you.
Thirty
And all is dark.
And the last thing I remember is my dad yelling my name wrangling me awake, only to find an empty prescription bottle and a a bottle of vodka on the floor.
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ashlations · 7 years
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5 Things I Wish I Had Known When I Began Learning Specific Languages
We all make mistakes.
In over two decades of language learning, I’ve made my fair share of them. Just like learning a single language is a process, learning how to learn languages is a process, too.
Generally speaking, there are no shortcuts to this process. You only get better with time, effort, and deliberate practice.
One thing, however, which can speed up the process—if not shorten it altogether—is tolearn from the mistakes of others. To learn the lessons others learned through struggle, error, and failure, and to do your best not to repeat them.
I’ve done this many times. I’ve been fortunate to surround myself with many excellent language learning role models over the years, and I’ve learned from them all.
But this article is not about how I’ve learned from the mistakes of others.
It’s about how you, dear reader, can learn from my mistakes.
Today, I want to share with you five things I wish I had known when I began learning specific languages. It is my hope that you can take these lessons, learned from my own mistakes and failures, and put them to use in your own learning, to ultimately speed up your own language learning success.
1. When Learning Close Languages, Start Speaking Early
Sometimes, it’s so easy to get stuck in a routine that it’s difficult to notice when other approaches would give much faster results.
Take, for example, the time I began learning Portuguese in 2008.
I had already had a well-developed learning method that I had tried and tested with several other languages. Part of this method required me to study a language using its corresponding Assimil course for an entire 6 months prior to actively speaking it with natives. This was my plan for Portuguese.
While this is well and good for most languages, I was overlooking one huge fact: I should have started speaking much, much earlier!
You see, Portuguese is a member of the Romance language family, meaning that it is descended from Latin.
At the time I started Portuguese, I had learned and mastered two other Romance languages: Spanish, and my native Italian.
Since Portuguese, Spanish, and Italian have lots in common in terms of grammar, vocabulary, phonetics, and syntax, I didn’t actually have to absorb a whole lot of new information to be able to speak Portuguese well. All I had to do was “convert” a lot of my underlying Spanish and Italian knowledge into correct Portuguese.
Since Portuguese was a “close” language to languages I already knew well, it turns out that I didn’t have to wait six months to start speaking it—I probably didn’t even have to wait six weeks!
The time one should wait to speak a language depends very much on the individual and his or her own language experience, but I know now that when learning very close languages, it’s much more efficient to speak as early as possible, since a lot of the skills and knowledge of a previous language can transfer to the new one.
2. When Learning Distant Languages, Keep it Simple
The amount of linguistic diversity on the planet is staggering. Languages are incredibly complex, and they can differ from one another in both subtle and obvious ways.
This diversity means that just because a routine or approach has helped you learn one, two, five, or ten languages, it won’t necessarily be just as successful in helping you learn the next one.
This was the lesson I learned from Japanese.
As I mentioned in the Portuguese example above, my language learning method focuses primarily on gaining input (listening and reading) for six months to a year, before then focusing on output (speaking & writing).
Typically, once I reach the end of the input phase in a particular language, I’m able to build up my speaking skills very quickly, and converse at an intermediate level or higher.
This is how it worked for many of my previous languages. Even difficult ones, like Russian, Polish, and Mandarin Chinese.
I had no such luck with Japanese, however. Once I began trying to speak, I was confused to find that I couldn’t, even after many attempts at conversation.
Here, the problem was the opposite of the one I had with Portuguese: instead of it being too close a language, Japanese was too distant from any language I had previously learned.
More specifically, every other language in my repertoire at the time had a Subject-Verb-Object (SVO) syntax. This means that they form sentences like “I (subject) ate (verb) the cake (object).”
Japanese doesn’t do this. It has, instead, an SOV word order, meaning the above sentence in Japanese is structured as “I the cake ate”.
If you’re accustomed to SVO languages as I was, trying to speak in an SOV language feels like a mental juggling act, as you suddenly have to start building sentences in a way that feels almost entirely backwards.
Now, I did know at the time that Japanese has a different word order. The problem is that I started speaking Japanese by trying to form sentences that would have been easy in SVO languages, but were far too complicated to manage in Japanese. Sentences with multiple clauses—something like “I started learning Japanese because I think Japanese culture is fascinating”—were most often the culprit.
Had I known then what I know now, I would have avoided these complex sentences entirely. While I could express them after a year of learning an SVO language, they simply weren’t appropriate for Japanese. Instead, what I needed to do was simplify things as much as possible.
Japanese syntax was so new to me that I needed to go back to basics; in essence, to speak like a child speaks. This means starting with a focus on simple sentences (such as “I’m learning Japanese” and “I like Japanese culture) and gradually working up to forming more complex sentences through connectors (“I’m learning Japanese because I like Japanese culture”). This “bottom-up” approach would have helped me grow accustomed to the new syntax while avoiding the mental stress of trying to say things that are above my level.
If you are trying to learn a language that is extremely different from any you have learned before, I recommend this approach. At the beginning, simplify everything as much as you can, until you’re comfortable with the basics. Once that happens, build up your tolerance for complexity, but do so gradually. And don’t be afraid to resimplify if you get overwhelmed!
3. When Learning a Language with a New Script, Acquire the Right Tools Quickly
Language learning difficulties can often arise in the most unexpected of places.
When I started learning Russian in 2004, I had already been forewarned many times about the maze of declensions that is the Russian case system. As such, if I was going to struggle with Russian, I figured it would be with its grammar.
Fast forward to four months later, and I was just about to give up learning Russian altogether.
The cases, surprisingly, were not the culprit. While challenging, they didn’t make me want to quit.
It was Cyrillic that nearly drove me to the edge.
Yes, Cyrillic, the nearly-Latin, nearly-Greek alphabet that looks oh-so simple, was giving me fits.
And here’s the thing—I could read and handwrite it with no problems!
When it came to typing, however, I was at a total loss.
I tried learning the Russian keyboard, but it was completely alien to me. Even the letters that Cyrillic shares with Latin (“M”, “T”, “O”, “P”, etc.) were in completely new positions, so learning to use the Russian keyboard would be starting from scratch. I didn’t have the patience for it.
So, I resorted to a different method. One that was much simpler, but much, much slower: I input each letter from the symbols menu, one character at a time. Needless to say, typing anything longer than my name was a complete nightmare. Entire text conversations were practically impossible.
What I needed then were better tools. Clearly, the Russian keyboard and Symbols menu weren’t going to help me get the job done.
I eventually did find the right tool for the job, in the form of something now known as Google Input Tools. This is a browser-based text window that converts text in the Latin alphabet to the Cyrillic alphabet automatically. This allows me to type in Russian while still keeping my keyboard layout the same.
Knowledge of typing resources like Google Input Tools helped me immensely once I tried to learn Mandarin Chinese, which also has a completely different script from my own. Though attempting to type in Chinese characters could have been another Cyrillic-esque nightmare, an application known as Google Pinyin helped me communicate through text without any added stress to my learning.
If you wish to learn a language with a script that’s unfamiliar to you, I strongly advise that you find the tools you’ll need to handwrite and/or type as soon as you can, and learn to use them right away. Look for the option that will get you writing or typing the fastest, without slowing down your learning. You can always look into more complex options later.
4. When Learning a Tonal Language, Use a Top-Down Approach
Amongst language learners, tonal languages are notorious for their difficulty. If you don’t already speak a language with tones, the very idea that the meaning of a word can change according to its pitch can be hard to wrap your head around. This is why many people who are learning languages like Mandarin Chinese, Cantonese, Thai, or Vietnamese can often struggle mightily when trying to speak.
When I started learning Mandarin Chinese in 2008, I tried to tackle the tones using the usual bottom-up approach that is usually recommended to learners. This means that I started by learning and memorizing the tones, then applying them to the smallest “tonal units” (syllables, in this case) and then combined those units into larger pieces (words) and then combined those into even larger pieces (sentences).
When it came time to pronounce a sentence, then, I had to run through the whole procedure every time: remember the tone number of each syllable, then put the syllables together, then the words together, then the sentence. Mentally, it was a lot to keep track of all at once—and due to a phenomenon called tone sandhi, it’s not always even accurate.
Unsatisfied with the mental acrobatics required by the method, I looked for something better. And I eventually found it.
One day, I stumbled on a surprising fact about children who speak tonal languages natively: they don’t use tone numbers!
I realized then that tonal language speakers don’t piece a correctly toned sentence tone by tone, syllable by syllable, like learners usually do. Instead, they learn tones in chunks—either entire phrases or sentences—and can work down from there if necessary.
This “top-down” approach is much more intuitive, and eliminates the confusion caused by tone sandhi, since you’re not focused on tone changes at the syllable level.
If you’re learning a tonal language, then I recommend you take this top-down approach to learning tones, and avoid the headaches that bottom-up approaches can cause.
5. Practice Proper Phonetics From the Beginning
Having a proper mastery of the phonetics of a language is immensely important if you want to be understood by natives.
The example of learning Chinese tones (above) is one of the more common and obvious examples of this. If you can’t handle the tones, it will be very difficult for people to know what you are trying to say.
Tonal languages are considerably rare, however, so it’s easy to think that you can ignore something like intonation when learning languages that don’t have complex tone systems.
But that’s not quite true. And I found that out the hard way.
In 2008, I posted my first video on YouTube. In it, I displayed my skill in the eight languages I knew at the time.
The video was well-received, and I got a lot of good feedback.
For one language, however, I received comments I wasn’t sure what to make of.
A few people noticed that my intonation was off for Swedish. I found this odd, since I had never had any major intonation troubles with other European languages, and already spoke related languages like German and Dutch at a high level.
I initially chalked it up to YouTube commenters being overly critical, but the comments kept coming. So I decided to look into it.
It turns out that even though Swedish is not a tonal language, it can be considered a “semi-tonal” language, as it has a phonetic feature called “pitch accent”. This means that certain Swedish words can be intoned in two different ways, each intonation having a separate meaning.
This is an important feature of Swedish phonetics that I had only found out about (or at least paid proper attention to) nearly two whole years after beginning the language. By that time, the improper intonation was already deeply ingrained into my Swedish, and undoing all that “damage” would take years of hard work.
Since then, I’ve spent considerable time and effort in re-learning Swedish intonation, but I haven’t managed to completely eradicate the former, erroneous patterns with my speech.
This is why I implore you to focus on phonetics as early as you can when learning a language. Practice pronunciation and intonation and get frequent feedback so that you can eliminate errors as soon as they arise. Errors that get ignored or left alone tend to fossilize, and can be much more difficult to eliminate later on. If you want to speak as naturally as possible in your languages, don’t make that mistake.
Conclusion
Twenty-two years of language learning experience has taught me a whole host of lessons. Some I have learned from other learners, some I have learned from my own success. Most of them, however, I’ve learned from my own mistakes.
Of course, it is possible for you to make the same mistakes that I have made. However, if you learn from the above five lessons, you won’t have to. In the end, this will make your language learning experience much easier, quicker, and more rewarding.
Written by Luca Lampariello and Kevin Morehouse
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