#ellie uyttenbroek

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Ari Versluis & Ellie Uyttenbroek

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Massalas - Rotterdam, 1999

Exatitudes by Ari Versluis & Ellie Uyttenbroek

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Etnomanie

Ellie Uyttenbroek

Nai010 Publishers, Rotterdam 2017, 174 pages, 100 col.ill  Dutch/English      ISBN 9789462083639

euro 32,00

email if you want to buy booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

Exhibition Nederlands Fotomuseum, Rotterdam, 20 May - 4 September 2017

‘Etnomanie’ is a tribal style bible. Fashion stylist Ellie Uyttenbroek (known from Exactitudes) made a personal selection from the ethnographic photo collection of the Nederlands Fotomuseum. Using her eye for fashion, she selected 100 posed portraits, from the 1850s to recent ones, focusing on individual expression, silhouette, pose, outfit, styling, body adornment, accessories, and other fashionable details. The starting point was style, which is popularly understood to mean something like attitude, approach, habitus, bearing, modus, manner, and taste. In addition to historical information, Uyttenbroek reports her stylistic observations, making the viewer aware of the beauty and autonomous visual power of the different portraits.

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Mohawks - Rotterdam 1998, photographer Ari Versluis and profiler Ellie Uyttenbroek.   

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Exactitudes: Gabbers – Rotterdam 1994

Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek

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PinkPantheress by Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek for Face Magazine February 2022. Danny Reed (Fashion Editor/Stylist), Karla Leon (Makeup Artist), Sarah Small (Casting Director).

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exactitudes by ellie uyttenbroek and ari versluis

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Exactitudes: Mohawks – Rotterdam 1998 Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek on Dazed Digital

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Ecopunks - Rotterdam, 2001

Exatitudes by Ari Versluis & Ellie Uyttenbroek

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Documenting subcultures / Photographers and other animals.

A little intro to subcultures.

The Oxford English Dictionary defines a subculture as ‘a cultural group within a larger culture, often having beliefs or interests at variance with those of the larger culture.’

David Riesman, circa 1950: “which passively accepted commercially provided styles and meanings, and a ‘subculture’ which actively sought a minority style … and interpreted it in accordance with subversive values”

Dick Hebdige, in his 1979 book Subculture: The Meaning of Style, that a subculture is a subversion to ‘the ‘straight’ world’. Subcultures bring together the neglected, the ones that can’t (or don’t want to) conform to the standards and rules of ‘normal society’, and give them a place and a sense of identity.

In 2007, Ken Gelder created a code that helps us distinguish subcultures from countercultures, based on the level of immersion in society. Gelder argues that members of subcultures are seen as ‘idle’ and ‘parasitic’ by society; they are not ‘class-conscious’ as they reject traditional class definitions; have a strong association with territory — e.g. the ‘street’, the ‘hood’ — rather than property; they embrace the group like it was a proper family, looking for belonging; like stylistic excess and exaggeration; refuse massification.

Documenting subcultures — photographers.

Here is a list of photographers that documented some subcultures throughout the years. Listed in no particular order (because f*ck the rules).

Derek Ridgers, 78–87 London Youth. You can follow Derek on Twitter, and see more of his skinheads shots on BuzzFeed.

Gavin Watson, Skins.

‘I had no professional photographic goals, I was more interested in being in a skinhead gang with a bit of photography on the side. I was a nervous photographer, and I still am. I’ve never gone up to a stranger and asked to take their photograph. I just couldn’t photograph other people, so it was all about my friends. My life was based around my friends, we all were all skinheads together, we all were teenagers together. If I hadn’t actually been a skinhead and set out to photograph them, the result would be very different. They’d all be V signing and shouting “fuck off, mate!”. It’s why I haven’t got the atypical pictures of what society think skinheads are, or even what skinheads think skinheads are.’ — Gavin Watson

Owen Harvey — Skinheads, Suedes, Mods, Lowriders, and other subcultures

Janette Beckman — various musical subcultures

“You could be chubby, a few teeth missing, a funny haircut — it didn’t matter. The best thing about punk? It was inclusive. You just had to have character and attitude. That made those pictures.” (via The Guardian)

Dennis Duijnhouwer, Gabbers

Exactitudes — a bit of everything

‘Photographer Ari Versluis and stylist Ellie Uyttenbroek have long started Exactitudes, a project that, put it simply, is a striking visual record of more than three thousand neatly differentiated social types the artists have documented over the last twenty years. Started in 1994 in the streets of Rotterdam, this overarching and on-going project portrays individuals that share a set of defining visual characteristics that identifies them with specific social types. Be it Gabbers, Glamboths, Mohawks, Rockers or The Girls from Ipanema, Versluis and Uyttenbroek’s extremely acute eye allows them to discern specific dress codes, behaviours or attitudes that belong and characterise particular urban tribes or sub-cultures. Once they recognise an individual that fits the characteristics of a given group, they invite such person to be photographed at the studio with the only requirement of wearing the very exact same clothes s/he was wearing at the time they first encountered.’

Mark Oblow, skateboarding

‘I picked up a camera because I was skating with all my heroes! Hosoi, Natas, Gonz, Cab, Tony Hawk, Lance Mountain, Tommy Guerrero, Gator, Jason Lee, etc. This list could keep going for days. It was hard because I wanted to skate too, but I learned to split it up with taking photos. I met Kevin Thatcher and he was a big influence on me along with Bryce Kanights — pro skater/pro photographer. He was the shit!’ (via Lodown Magazine)

James Mollison, music fans.

From Mollison’s website: ‘His third book, The Disciples was published in 2008 — panoramic format portraits of music fans photographed before and after concerts.’

Oasis — Manchester Stadium, Manchester, UK, 3rd July 2005

Documenting subcultures — other links and sources.

Reddit, Twitter, Tumblr, Instagram and Pinterest is where subculture still live. A couple of interesting/relevant ones

Football casuals

From Vice: ‘Why Is Casual Culture Still Relevant In Football and Fashion?’

@thecasualultra on Twitter

@CasualMind_ on Twitter

Techwear

@techwearfits on Instagram

r/TechWear on Reddit

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EUnify Ari Versluis & Ellie Uyttenbroek

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Exactitude - Arie Versluis & Ellie Uyttenbroek

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Exactitudes: Mohawks – Rotterdam 1998