#fashion magazines

[orchideennacht]

Christian Dior — New York, Collection Printemps / Eté 1956

[fashionbooksmilano]

Bold,Beautiful and Damned

The world of 1980s fashion illustrator Tony Viramontes

Foreword by Jean Paul Gaultier

Lawrence King, London 2013, 194 pages,24x31cm, ISBN 978 1780067 3073

euro 60,00

email if you want to buy booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

When Tony Viramontes' work appeared in the late 1970s, his hard and direct style of drawing was a marked contrast to the prevailing soft-pastel school of fashion illustration. He scored immediate success, rapidly acquiring the kind of prestigious editorial commissions normally given to photographers, from Lei, Per Lui in Italy, Vogue in the USA, The Face in Britain, and Le Monde and Le Figaro in France. This beautiful hardcover book brings together an extensive collection of his work, featuring striking images of smoldering and smoky-eyed men and women who vibrate with New Wave energy. Viramontes worked with some of the most celebrated names in fashion including Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Chanel, Claude Montana, and Christian Dior.

17/03/24

[kecobe]

Model and Graffiti, Paris (Vogue), 1961 William Klein (American; 1928–2022) Gelatin silver print Christie’s, New York

Signed, titled, and dated in pencil and credit stamp (on the verso)

[iread-studies]

Fashion Magazines in Kabhi Khushi Khabie Gham (2001)

Click here for more fashion magazine identifications.

Kabhi Khushi Khabie Gham (2001) is a cult Hindi movie (Hindi, not Indie, enunciate the H). If you haven't watched it yet, run!

One of the main characters, Pooja, is a university student who is really, really, really into fashion. It makes sense, then, that when she first appears on the screen, she is literally surrounded by fashion magazines.

Next to her lay 8 magazines! All from a variety of publications and not even a duplicate. I'm impressed! Tracking them all down took me a good 2 hours, tho...

Some parameters:

The movie was shot starting on 16 October 2000 and was released in India on 14 December 2001.

The movie is set in both India and the UK, with this scene, in particular, being set in London so I'm assuming most of the magazines will be UK edition.

Ok, now we are ready to start.

From the left:

Harpers & Queen - May 2001

Cover model: Yasmin Le Bon (source1, source2)

This is not, in fact, an Harper's Bazaar issue, because Harper's Bazaar UK didn't exist at the time! According to Wikipedia: "In November 1970, New York City-based Hearst Communications amalgamated it with Queen magazine (which dated from 1862) to form Harpers & Queen. [...] In March 2006, it was renamed Harper's Bazaar, bringing it in line with its international sister titles."

Cosmopolitan UK - June 2001

Cover Model: Alison Meisonne (source)

Harpers & Queen - March 2001

Cover model: Sarah Jessica Parker

Tatler - August 1998

Cover model: Jemima Khan

Elle US - June 2001

Cover model: Fernanda Tavares (source)

You can find more info on the features of this issue on The Fashion Spot. (I think I've found my people)

Vogue UK - June 1998

Cover model: Kate Moss (source)

Harpers & Queen - April 2001

Cover model: Rachel Weisz (source)

Vogue UK - April 2001

Cover Model: Gisele Bundchen (source)

.

In case you need a recap:

Harpers & Queen - May 2001

Cosmopolitan UK - June 2001

Harpers & Queen - March 2001

Tatler - August 1998

Elle US - June 2001

Vogue UK - June 1998

Harpers & Queen - April 2001

Vogue UK - April 2001

This tells us that this scene was shot during of after June 2001.

Most of the magazines are from around that time, but two of them are from 3 years before, 1998! I wonder how they found them? It's not like you can waltz in any store and get 3 years old fashion magazines!

And most importantly, a US edition of Elle?? Of the issue of that same month? How?? They didn't shoot in the US at all!

Click here for more fashion magazine identifications.

[vintagefashionplates]

The chatelaine.

The concept of waist-hung items is almost universal across all cultures. For example, the Japanese wore netsuke and inro or the Chinese wore embroidered purses and pouches. Though purses and pouches preceded the chatelaine—they are mentioned in Chaucer—later purses were very small and dainty. The chatelaine was a more useful addition to an outfit.

Some items, like toiletries or precious possessions, were placed in fitted containers called étuis, made of base or precious metals, and when worn on a cord would be called “equipages.” From the introduction of the watch, circa 1510, watches were worn by women on such watch equipages, or on a long chain with watch at one end and keys seal etc at the other end. These chains were worn looped over the waistband or draped across the body.

However, the word “chatelaine” was not used until 1828 when a London magazine called The World of Fashion reported a new accessory, called “la chatelaine.” The medieval chatelaine had worn the keys to the castle, so these new accessories included a symbolic key, as the ladies were wearing them as a symbol of their status as “The Lady Chatelaine” of their chateau.

The next year the same magazine published three fashion plates of ladies wearing chatelaines. The word is now used for earlier examples, though technically these should really be called equipages. During the 19th century, the popularity of chatelaines varied, but it was still a major fashion accessory.

All members of society, from mistresses to maids, wore them. Royalty wore them, though these were more likely to be a watch, purse, or fan example, and nurses carried their necessary medical implements on their chatelaines. The quality of the items and its variety would carry status; each would have a variety appropriate for their needs.

There was also a lot of symbolism used in these accessories, like pansies for thoughts, etc. I have one that’s got crosses, anchors, hearts, and stars on it, as a faith, hope, and charity symbol. I think the anchors were a symbol of hope.

I think this particular one might have even been a mourning chatelaine, because after I bought the item, I put my finger in the thimble bucket and out came this tiny piece of paper with a quotation from Longfellow: “Oppression, and sickness, and sorrow, and pain Shall be to our true love as links to the chain.” It really had quite a punch. (...)

Text by: Hunter Oatman-Stanford Source: https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/the-killer-mobile-device-for-victorian-women/

[newyorkthegoldenage]

New York fashions in the November 1929 issue of Harper's Bazaar.

[glateias]

Gisele Bündchen for Dior by John Galliano Spring RTW 2005

[friendofthecrows]

People really rip on fashion magazines for "perpetuating the patriarchy's ideals of women" but I have consistently found they are a vessel for feminist discussion, just hidden under pink lace.

The first place I ever learned about using birth control to stop a period, plus frank discussion of the possible life changing health benefits and possible side effects was an Elle magazine.

The first place I learned about reproductive rights in general was a fashion magazine.

I recently read an article from a Latina woman about her struggle to be respected as an immigrant woman.

Discussions of inequality and societal critiques are everywhere. From consumerism and green-washing to pay inequality. From domestic abuse to women in sports.

The pretty pictures dazzle our eyes, make a profit, and keep the stereotypical straight white man away, but there is meat between those pages.

[cronicasdeunafashionista]

[brownsugar4hersoul]

MADELAINE PETSCH

ph. by Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello for Vogue Thailand

June 2023

[fashionbooksmilano]

Marie Claire Janvier Juin 1984

Paris 1984, 23x29,5cm, Jan.130 pages, Fév.202 pages, Mars 294 pages, Avril 330 pages, Mai 398 pages, Juin 314 pages, Marie Claire Bis Print Eté 1984 234 pages

euro 180,00

email if you want to buy booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

Si les années 80 continuent de nourrir la mode actuelle, c'est parce qu'elles sont synonymes de liberté et d’audace stylistique. La mode des eighties reste une source d’inspiration inépuisable des créateurs et se réinvente dans notre dressing par petites touches ou en total look.

Marie Claire, c'est un engagement : des thématiques engagées, au plus près des lectrices et de ce qui les animent; des cahiers dédiés, intelligents et pétris de l'air du temps, tournés vers de multiples horizons : lifestyle, food, jardin, culture, voyage et design. Mais aussi, une prise de parti fort sur l'écologie et de nouveaux enjeux comme les modes de vie plus responsables.Et toujours chaque mois, des décryptages, des reportages inspirants, du style et de la culture.

21/01/24

[anotherfauxredhead]

Women's Magazines Don't Speak For Me

I'll never understand why some if not many magazines geared to women still emphasize the importance of motherhood. Are all their editors blind zombies to the outdated AF LifeScript? For instance, next month's Vogue cover puts it right there on the cover line. What if Winslet (whom I like as actress) chose to be childfree? Would Vogue still think she's fearless if she chose not to be a mother? Also, I've always felt like Vogue is low-key pronatalist. There was this multi-cover they had a few years ago, where every woman on their covers that month was either pregnant or posing with their baby. Insert ALL the eyerolls here. Why they (and other women's mags) continue to push the idea of "motherhood is good" during a time when it's becoming more out of vogue is beyond me. No wonder magazines are irrelevant these days.

(ETA: it was the January 2020 issues of Vogue that went all out for the babies. Blah!)

[iread-studies]

Book in Main Hoon Na

Click here for more books and fashion magazine identifications.

Main Hoon Na (2004) is a fantastic Hindi movie in which Shah Rukh Khan plays a socially awkward super soldier.

During the titular song "Main Hoon Na", Sanjana (Amrita Rao) is seen reading a book in the university library.

The book is "The Brontës and their world", by Phyllis Bentley, a biography of the Brontë sisters first published in 1969.

While this is a perfect book to find in a university library (50 years out of date and covered by cellophane), why was Sanjana reading a book on English literature? Every single character in the movie attended STEM classes!

[thesecretdiaryofa90sgirl]

Kate Moss, 2009 📸

[orchideennacht]

Ceil Chapman 1950s collections