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#Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman is an expert in wearable technology design#functional clothes and goods made from smart textiles. After many years of experience as an industrial and fashion designer#as well as a professor and researcher at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn#New York
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Cross-Pollination of Industry
Companies do not reinvent the wheel though occasionally their R&D may do just that. But more generally the digital economy democratizes global commerce by shrinking the borders between industries whose newfound permeability of ideas, capital, and finished goods raises productivity and innovation-led growth. Modern technologies in this age of disruption is then the sum of a cross-pollination between companies from which innovation is imported by an unrelated firm to commercialize a product in their respective market: (1) SpaceX imported the unlikely production methods for water towers and oil refinery tanks as a turnkey operation to scale up prototypes of its Starship after the decision to substitute stainless steel for composite materials; (2) Last-mile delivery services imported air drones for quicker distribution; (3) Big-box retailers like Walmart and Home Depot imported e-commerce into their core businesses to grow marketshare; (4) The apparel industry imported semiconductors with sensors into smart wearables to measure the biometrics of users; (5) Makers of consumer electronics like Philips imported wireless connectivity to develop smart-home gadgets. This cross-pollination between various technologies decreases the lead times of innovation within the pipelines of companies whose febrile pace for marketshare conduces to ‘Industry 4.0’.
This diffusion of proven technology across firms lowers the risk of R&D for which the confidence in capital investment remains above water sometimes in spite of burn rates for multiple quarters. In migrating technologies already tested there is a reassurance to designers and engineers alike of how their use will bring more value to a firm. Many mergers and acquisitions today whether they are horizontal or vertical are then a testament to how the digital economy emboldens bullish companies in pursuit of new technologies to capture marketshare like Unilever’s procurement of the Dollar Shave Club, or Facebook’s buyout of Instagram, or Tesla’s absorption of Solarcity, or Disney’s purchase of Marvel, or Google’s takeover of Android. Such diversification and even development of big-tent ecosystems like those of Amazon or Apple with over a billion devices in the wild becomes unprecedented in the value chains of companies as the life cycle of their products is pared down which in turn demands a welter of innovation to ward off competition. Every firm comes to covet the next benchmark of an advantage for the sake of profit, manifesting in how companies espouse a startup culture to remain the leaders and not laggards of their industries. Such urgency to innovate informs the growth strategies of all companies in today’s digital world.
A lofty performance in this new economy however does not guarantee primacy for long which Research in Motion became notoriously emblematic of amid the World War I of smartphones in North American markets. The Blackberry produced by RIM held universal appeal all the way up to the Oval Office until the UX and form-factor of iPhones trounced it. The Blackberry’s tactile keyboard simply could not compete with the ecosystem of iTunes and an App Store despite RIM’s own imitation in 2009, although this tit-for-tat spurred Apple to launch the iMessenger against Blackberry’s BBM later in 2011. Ultimately, the product family of iPhones generated greater profit as a result of its marketing towards the youth demographic since its technology privileged such core features as the futuristic touchscreen or web surfing which lured corporate professionals away from their Blackberries over time. Issuing from this foregoing appeal to personal and business users, Apple then created more value with consumers from its reinvention of the phone whose brand loyalty pushed marketshare and sales upward for its user-friendly products. This genius broaches once more the cross-pollination of technologies whereby Apple’s core competency was its product innovation as other industries filed the void to create the rich content of its apps, music, and Internet browsing.
Exploiting the output of other industries to partially create your own defines the marriage of innovation between firms. Amazon espoused the same philosophy as a maiden retailer to connect sellers with buyers for goods through its use of platform capitalism which Airbnb, Uber, and Facebook replicated. What is the basics of this business model? Quite simply Amazon transplants the division of labour from the mass production of Fordism in assembly lines to online markets. All inputs are standardized from the wares being sold and together they capture value with the scale economies and monopoly power that invariably follow. What becomes unique for this business model is how these giant firms exercise control over upstream and downstream processes while skirting government oversight since they are neither beholden to labour nor consumers in a mercenary kind of way. Risks and liabilities pass onto other parties in the absence of direct ownership as the supply chain is farmed out. The digital economy in perverse logic grants immunity to such middlemen as retailers abide by Amazon’s rules and consumers assume the risk yet none complain since the one sells to a larger market and the other enjoys lower prices. The cross-pollination of technologies thus creates rents in excess of profits as Amazon redefines shopping away from brick-and-mortar stores.
The value-added of smart wearables signals another seismic shift as the adoption of this technology from a niche to a mass market changes the apparel industry and, moreover, society where humanity turns bionic in lockstep with a better quality of life. Embedding electronics into textiles and accessories with which users interact especially in smart environments, like home gadgets and appliances, illustrates how industries are slowly becoming homogenous with one another. Such cross-pollination of technology informs products between smartwatches, smart glasses, clothing, footwear, headbands, wristbands, or jewellery whose many functions measure wellness and fitness while providing the convenience of wireless connectivity. The seamless integration of electronics in the lives of consumers is a growing market valued at billions of dollars as demand increases proportionally with the overall change in the percentage of patents being registered over the last decade. Also pertinent in this market is the big data analysis of end users on their behaviours and performances that can be uploaded to a cloud-based system for commercial development of future products. Investors see high returns in this industry as it continues to miniaturize the form-factor from Sony’s Walkman in 1979 to the modern Fitbit and iWatch thus concluding in the fungible nature of innovation today.
Another case study includes major logistic companies which experiment with multicopter drones imported from recreational use since 80 percent of packages by e-commerce weigh less than 5 lb. If machine learning and extended battery life can be integrated well enough into this hardware then the autonomous system would minimize costs, time, and CO2 emissions. Rather than make use of public roads a drone would fly a parcel by air in minutes most notably to remote locations where such infrastructure is nonexistent. On average the reduction of time is in the order of 35-50 percent for shipments between depots and estates according to studies at MIT. FedEx and UPS are in the midst of adopting this technology in their last-mile delivery services for which the urbanization of the global economy and the growth of e-commerce were the impetus. The United Nations foresees 65 percent of the world population living in urban centres by 2050 whose density will require innovation from couriers to accommodate greater demand and volume when traffic will be a deterrent for the more traditional methods of shipment. Drones offer a viable solution to the juggernaut of crowdsourcing from firms like UberEats, DoorDash, or Foodora which upon their entry could capture the marketshare of legacy companies if the latter are unable to transplant such innovation into their delivery services.
These same trappings of Industry 4.0 have contributed to Space 2.0 in effectively privatizing the final frontier for mankind amid the industry’s upswing along an S-curve with regard to development against the status quo from government agencies and aerospace contractors. This fringe movement consists of Silicon Valley entrepreneurialism, venture capital from angel investors, risk-taking, open IT, use of non-space technology, and rapid prototyping unlike the ossified operations and public funding of NASA. The Wild West of California revolutionized the industry with the knowledge of how any learning curve requires failure which has until now dissuaded the corporate world from entering space as a new market whose valuation will exceed USD 1 trillion by 2040. SpaceX came to produce the first reusable rocket, flew the first commercial space capsule for humans, recovered and reused the first stage of an orbital launch, made the first commercial flight to the International Space Station, resupplied the ISS three times, and reduced the cost of launches by a factor of 2. The company has had a banner year with the accolade of being the largest producer of rocket engines in the world despite the many detractors and doubters who balked at the notion of any startup in space. SpaceX thus epitomizes the thesis of how the digital economy erases borders between industries.
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Exploring the Versatility of Denim Fabrics — A Review of some Significant Insights on Recent Researches- Juniper Publilshers
Abstract
Considerable research work has been done on denim fabrics during recent years and their properties as well as sustainability well exploited. Nano titanium dioxide has been applied on denim fabrics for imparting multifunctional finishes for value addition adopting three routes - dry exhaust, microencapsulation and nano encapsulation. Efforts have been taken to develop comfortable denim clothing using regenerated cellulose derivatives, maintaining its rustic look for tropical regions. The performance of the developed fabric has been assessed by using evaluation methods. In order to meet the stringent needs so as to withstand global environment focus has been directed on the study of different techniques through which apparel industries are developing textiles with smart functioning, using new sustainable products to provide extra comfort and increased performance in an eco-friendly manner. Sustainability will be crucial for all the denims/jeans brands/Denim manufacturers to withstand in the global environment. Desized indigo denim fabrics have been evaluated for breaking force, spectral characteristics and surface appearance by means of application of special finishes. The findings show that some of them are acceptable only as an effective segment on a garment. The resilience properties of stretch denim fabrics have been studied on the tensile properties and structural parameters by using Kawabata evaluation system. The tensile properties are determined by proportion or polyester and elastane in relation to cotton. The recent years has seen developments in denims. The major focus areas of innovation and development are comfort, performance and environment friendliness of different processes. Recent developments of silk denims which are soft, light and comfortable in all seasons, have added a new dimension to the denim and fashion world.
Keywords: Denim fabrics; Multi functional finishes; Nano materials; Stretch; Sustainability; Tensile properties; Silk Denims
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Introduction
Denim though considered to be one of the oldest fabrics in the world yet remains fresh even today. Ever since its inception it has been conventionally produced from 100% cotton. Since denim is the unique apparel preferred by all age groups and due to its' popularity, a lot of development work has been done in the last few decades. Due to these innovations, a large number of variants of denim are available to the customer today. The expectations from fabrics have changed with developments in textile technology and the consumers' living standards. Modern consumers are interested in clothing that not only looks good but also feels great. The warp yarn is traditionally dyed with the blue pigment obtained from indigo dye. Indigo was the most significant natural dye known to mankind until the introduction of synthetic dyes, at the end of the 19th century [1]. Denim is evergreen classic in the fashion cycle. It has been proved by many fashion designers and the following statements support the same. Denim has now clearly established itself as the definitive "street wear” fabric and has wide age and socioeconomic appeal. Denim mills are now, more than at any time previously, spending large amounts of money in developing new concepts in denim, which in turn means that all jeans manufacturers will experiment with and achieve new levels of finishing [2]. Biopolishing of cotton fabrics with cellulase enzyme results in both beneficial and adverse effects. By suitably optimizing the process conditions, the strength loss during the process can be aimed to a required level, without compromising other handle properties [3]. In the wet processing of denim different mechanical and chemical operations of finishing can be replaced by enzyme treatments, as enzymes are eco-friendly, non toxic, and fully biodegradable compounds. Enzyme technology besides other advantages, also enables process integration [4-7]. The main advantages of enzymes used in denim finishing are efficiency, accelerated reactions, being operational under mild conditions, acting on a specific substrate exclusively, easiness of control, biodegradability, and a wide range of industrial applications. Optimal temperature range for most enzymes is 30-70 oC under neutral conditions [8-12]. Stretch fabrics are increasingly being used across the whole gamut of clothing applications, such as fashion, sportswear, medical and functional garments [1]. Consumers require that the clothing should satisfy their needs in terms of aesthetic appearance, fit and comfort during usage while the clothing manufacturer requires that the fabric is easy to tailor and that the finished garment has a good appearance [13]. The major focus areas of innovation and development are comfort, performance and environment friendliness of different processes. Comfort and fit are very important aspects of denim garments. So, a lot of research has being done to make stretch denims. Recent development of silk denims which are soft, light and comfortable in all seasons, have added a new dimension to the denim and fashion world.
Influence of nano finishes on functional properties
Denim's popularity to casual dress has also been appreciated in the workplace. Denim is both fashion and performance driven [14]. Therefore, an attempt has been taken to impart some functional effect in denim material using synthesized titanium dioxide nano particles. Nanotechnology is concerned with materials whose structure exhibit significantly novel and improved physical, chemical, and biological properties, phenomena and functionality due to their nano scaled size [15]. The impact of nanotechnology in the textile finishing area has brought up innovative finishes as well as new application technique. The finishes obtained using nanotechnology are claimed to be more durable than conventional ones. These advanced finishes setup an unprecedented level of textile performances of stain-resistant, hydrophilic, antistatic and wrinkle resistant and shrink proof abilities [16]. Nano-size particles have larger surface area and hence higher efficiency than larger size particles [17,18]. Nano-size particles are transparent; hence it does not blur colour and brightness of the textile substrate. Some of the textile products based on nanotechnology have just begun to hit the market and it is only a matter of time before one can see a large scale application of nanotechnology not only in textiles, but in applications affecting our day today life.
Growing awareness of health and hygiene has increased the demand for bioactive textiles [19]. With the advent of nano science and technology, a new area has developed in the realm of textile finishing [20]. The UV blocking property of a fabric is enhanced when a dye, pigment, delustrant or UV absorber finish is present in the fabric that absorbs UV radiation and blocks its transmission through the fabric to the skin [21]. The conventional methods used to impart different properties to fabrics often do not lead to permanent effects and it will lose their functions subsequently after laundering or wearing. Nanotechnology can provide high durability for fabrics, because nanoparticles have a large surface area-to-volume ratio and high surface energy, thus presenting better affinity for fabrics and leading to an increase in durability of the function [22]. In addition, a coating of nanoparticles on fabrics will not affect the breathability or hand feel of the fabric [2 3]. The field of nano finishing in textile technology is very promising due to various end uses like protective textiles for soldiers, medical textiles and smart textiles. With the advancements in synthesis and characterization of various types of nano materials, standardization of application protocol is a must to impart functional finishing to textile materials [24]. In this work an attempt has made to convert the TiO2 particle in to nano TiO2. The synthesized nano TiO2 were applied on the denim fabric and thereby to produce multi-functional effects. The treated material has been studied for their UV protection ability, antimicrobial ability and stain repellent properties and few essential physical properties, to find the effect of treatment on the fabric.
Reversible reaction in semi batch-batch mixed technique has been used for the synthesis of Titanium dioxide nano-particles. The nano particles have been observed to be almost spherical and with a quite narrow size range [25]. SEM technique has been used to study the nano-particles were. Three methods have been used to treat the denim fabric with the synthesised nano particles of titanium dioxide. The methods include direct exhaustion of the TiO2 Nano particles, micro encapsulation of TiO2 nano particles and nano encapsulation of TiO2 nano particles. The multi functional properties such as anti bacterial, UV protection and stain repellency have been used to test the efficiency of TiO2. From the research work, it is evident that there was significant increase in stain release property of the nano TiO2 treated fabrics and it also gives protection to the body against solar radiation and microbes. The result reveals that the multifunctional effect can be imparted to the 100% cotton denim fabric treated with nano TiO2 without affecting their basic textile characteristic. Various effects such as fading, vintage, streaks, and so on are imparted by washing with enzymes and different chemicals. The investigation provides great potential and show a new path to the denim industry for adding value to the denim products.
Denim fabric from regenerated cellulose
Investigations have revealed the importance of clothing comfort in deciding customer satisfaction. Today a garment is not merely dictated by its style and durability but also by its clothing comfort. Clothing that is in direct contact with the human body interacts continuously and dynamically with the skin during use. Such interaction between clothing and the human body stimulates mechanical, visual, and thermal sensations, which eventually lead to perception of either comfort or discomfort. Slater has defined clothing comfort as a pleasant state of physiological, psychological, and physical harmony between the human being and the environment [26]. Clothing comfort includes three main considerations: psychological, sensorial, and thermo physiological comfort. It is known that fiber type, yarn properties, fabric structure, finishing treatments, and clothing conditions are the main factors affecting thermo physiological comfort. Sensations that arise from the thermal and moisture transport properties of clothing are important inputs to the perception of state of comfort. An understanding off fabric properties that influence thermal and moisture sensations is essential for engineering fabrics that provide maximum comfort to the wearer. While innovations have been made to offer new colors and different look and feel of the denim fabric, not much work is reported to have been done to add comfort to this all-time favourite apparel. Considering the above mentioned facts, this concept "regenerated cellulose-based denim” aims at providing mankind with denim trousers having great comfort. The focus is on studying the comfort aspects of the denim followed by development of a new comfortable product using different types of regenerated fibers with cotton but maintaining the original rugged and rustic look of denim. There search worken visages not only offering more comfortable denim but also providing an alternative to cotton which is already in short supply due to enormous global demand. Regenerated fibers are produced from natural origin such as wood pulp. Very good tensile strength, bright appearance and soft feel are exhibited by such cellulosic fibers. These are resistant to wear and have smooth handle. Besides imparting comfort in moderate conditions such products can transfer moisture well and enable comfort during wear in hot, moist climatic conditions.
Studies have revealed that cellulosic derivatives like modal, bamboo and Tencel yarns have various properties owing to their production methods and raw material but have no remarkable influence on end product. The percentage of moisture in the fiber is determined by the cellulose content, leading to cooling sensation when in contact with the human body [27]. Reduction in hairiness and fineness of yarn will enhance the clothing comfort by providing more area of contact to the wearer. Fabrics having smooth and soft surface would improve the soothing sensation for clothing in tropical regions. The heat conductivity and contact area of the fabric with body are based on thermo physiological properties. Hence in the case of filament fabrics it exhibits most favourable values. Air permeability is a measure of passage of air through the fabric that implies comfort of the clothing with less cover factor. Objective evaluation has been used to determine comfort behaviour of fabrics using Kawabata evaluation. The properties studied include tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties. The cumulative results will give primary hand values and total hand values. The primary hand values like koshi, shari, and hari have been found to be highest in the denim fabric having indigo dyed cotton warp and viscose filament weft. Gradually decreasing primary hand values have been found in denim fabrics of the following types
a. Indigo dyed cotton warp and viscose weft
b. Indigo dyed cotton warp and bamboo weft
c. Indigo dyed cotton warp and tencel weft
d. Indigo dyed cotton warp and modal weft
e. Indigo dyed cotton warp and grey cotton weft
Fukrami shows fullness, bulkiness of fabrics which is highest with fabrics of the following types
a. Indigo dyed cotton warp and viscose weft
b. Indigo dyed cotton warp and
Hence the following fabrics showed the largest value and contributing towards the comfort ability in summer suiting.
a. Indigo dyed cotton warp and viscose filament weft
b. Indigo dyed cotton warp and tencel weft
Chemical processing of fashion denims
In a green supply chain the manufactures can encourage the suppliers to adopt green practices and management systems so as to respond to the conscious consumers out there in the market [26]. The leading textile chemical manufacturing industries have been working towards product stewardship in supplying of chemicals that meet the criteria of eco-labels, (Bluesign, Green label, Oeko-Tex, etc) prohibited substances list and are compliant to REACH legislation [28].
Combination of several processes drastically reduces the chemical consumption as well as the water consumption, and finally achieving the required result.
a. Tests have shown that , when we combine Stone wash in addition to the Bleach wash , consumption of water drastically reduces 30 litres per KG of denim Garments.
b. If we combine Biopolishing with the stone washing, we shall achieve the desired effect with saving of at least 30-50L of water per KG of denim garments.
c. With the help of new silicone softeners with remarkable stability which offers several ways to combine treatment baths and thus saving lots of water, energy and chemicals; i.e. saves up to 50 litres of water for every pair of Jeans; Reduce utility costs and Energy Usage; Assists in marketing of Sustainable Denim Garments.
In order to produce more eco-friendly textiles/apparels there is a need for joint effort from retailers and producers. There is a to develop production processes utilizing lower quantities of water, lower chemicals, hazardous chemicals or lower releases of GHG, etc. which is equally important as the measures adopted by retailers, producers and subsequently for consumers to choose such textiles/apparel products [29]. But consumer behaviour in how they care for and dispose of clothing and other textile products is of equal importance, viz. choice of suitable washing temperatures, taking the right steps to significantly extend the lifetimes and encouraging recycling of garments once they have reached the end of their life. In order to enhance the product demand such crucial problems are the areas where retailer's brands can have a high degree of influence on the consumers.
Special finishes on denim
Application of enzymes in finishing of denim fabrics offer a number of benefits such as efficiency, accelerated reactions, being operational under mild conditions, acting on a particular substrate exclusively, better control, biodegradability, and covering a broad spectrum of industrial uses. In the case of most enzymes, under neutral conditions the optimal temperature lies between 30-70 oC [30-33]. It is necessary to avoid back staining during enzymatic treatment as there is possibility of redeposition of the indigo dye that is removed, on the white weft yarn of the denim fabric [34]. The most conventional and primary technique of enzyme application in textile finishing relates to processing with a-amylases [35]. In the case of denims and other fabrics produced from cotton and its blends, the warp threads are coated with starch/size, which plays the role of a lubricant and protects the yarn during weaving. The size material has to be stripped off the fabric after weaving [36]. The enzymes used for desizing of cotton are mainly of bacterial origin such as Bacillus subtilis. The starch is hydrolysed by amylases without adverse effects on cotton fabrics [37,38]. Based on the type of sugar produced like a/p-amylases the starch enzymes have been classified [39]. A very thin layer is formed on the surface of denim fabric by leather and wax finish which changes the surface features of the treated fabrics. The strato and the spider finishes are the processes of exhaustion, while the soft resin finish is performed by spraying. The peach skin effect is imparted on denim fabric by leather finish which is a simple and fast surface treatment for producing particular effects. It can be applied partially or completely on the denim fabric surface. Denim treated by wax finish imparts a smooth, greasy and oily feel. The application of special binders and chemicals provides elastic and soft, silicone-like film onto the treated areas. Special resin finishes have been used to impart permanent 3D creases, resistant to wearing and washing. Spraying technique is used for application of resin directly on to denim. Creases can be formed using binder clips or aluminium pipes before or after spraying the resin. Loss of strength of the treated denim is the major setback with spray resin finish. Owing to the interaction with design and its discoloration ability, special finish labelled as strato is an actual and trendy one. Basically, various types of creases are formed with clips or other trimmings (textile tagging gun). Such parts of denim which are not accessible for chemicals (inner parts of the material) are not bleached, and hence the treated areas resemble floating clouds. Crackle effects can be produced by sporadic breaks on the denim pre treated with a special stiffening agent.
Application of special finishes on denim leads to attractive and respectable patterns as important design elements. Considerable differences have been observed between special treatments as revealed by results of spectral values [40]. Strato, leather and wax finishes can produce special effects that are acceptable based on technological indicators. Resin and the spider finish affect fabric weight and reduce its strength and usability in garments. Hence, such effects can only be applied as effective parts or segments of a garment.
Studies on stretch denim fabrics
The capability of a fabric to recover from induced wrinkles or to retain a smooth surface appearance after wear and repeated laundering is considered to be one of the factors that influences clothing [41,42]. During garment wear the fabrics are expected to stretch as per body movements and after stretching be able to retain the original shape without getting deformed. Hence, the extension and recovery properties after repeated stretch are considered crucial for the performance and appearance of garments [43]. The stretch and high elastic recovery fabrics have been introduced in the market so as to avoid deformation and decrease bagging and dimensional changes [42,44]. Elastane fibres are characterized by superior stretch and excellent elastic recovery properties. Elastane fibres are mostly used in conjunction with other fibres to achieve controlled stretch and recovery properties and to protect the elastane from mechanical damage [45,46]. In comparison with 100% cotton fabrics, elastane blended fabrics exhibit greater extension, immediate recovery, and resiliency [47].
The extension or stretch applied to woven fabrics during manufacturing, finishing, garment construction, and wear is generally within the low stress region. The KES-F system is a device capable of measuring the low stress tensile, shear, bending and compression deformations of fabrics [48]. With the information provided by this system it is possible to specify fabric handle repeated performance requirements and transactions based on fabric mechanical properties [49].
The clothing engineers have tried to apply the mechanical parameters to tailoring process control and have also attempted to connect these parameters with suit appearance [11]. It was reported that the ideal fabric satisfies the three conditions, namely, good hand, good appearance of suit and mechanical comfort for wear. The mechanical comfort is expressed by a range of fabric mechanical parameters such as tensile properties.
Investigations on the stretch denim fabrics have shown that in order to improve tensile recovery properties, it is necessary to have higher polyester and lower cotton content, lower linear density, and density of weft yarns but higher density of warp yarns. The structure of the fabric needs to have less tightness so as to achieve higher tensile resilience, degree of elasticity and also lower residual strain. Tightness of fabrics can be studied using density multiplied by linear density, because there exists strong linear relationship between cover factor and density. In the study of recovery, residual strain alone cannot be used since the crucial aspect is percentage of return after stretching to the whole investigation [48]. Hence it is necessary to calculate the degree of elasticity. Degree of elasticity is related to tensile resilience. In other words tensile resilience is related to degree of elasticity. By setting specific modulus of elasticity at the yield point strain and using initial region of tensile curve the tensile resilience can be studied. The tensile strain at yield point varies inversely as the specific modulus of elasticity. This relation could be described by a power function for all tested stretch denim fabrics. When the tensile strain at yield is higher, the degree of elasticity is also higher, if elastane is not used, but it is lower if elastane is used. When elastane is used the degree of elasticity increases with increase in the specific modulus of elasticity, and is lower when elastane is not used. Hence, higher specific modulus of elasticity with elastane ensures better tensile elastic recovery
Improvement in pre and post processes of denim
The increase in demand of denim fabrics has prompted great challenge on the part of denim product manufactures to innovate and develop products to suit requirements of different consumers. The major focus areas of innovation and development are comfort, performance and environment friendliness of different processes [49]. Comfort and fit are very important aspects of denim garments. So, a lot of research has being done to make stretch denims. Elastane fibers are incorporated into the fabric. Lycra and Spandex are used in weft yarn. Ring and open- end core spun yarns are also used in denim to provide stretch property. Elastic ply yarns produced on TFO are also used to make stretch denim fabrics. Apart from the multi-component, Bi component synthetic filament yarns are also used to provide stretch.
To improve performance, synthetic fibers blended with natural fibers are used. One of such blends is blend of Nylon 6. 6 and cotton. This fabric shows the traditional look and feel but performance is better than the 100 per cent cotton denim in terms of better abrasion resistance. So, the durability of the fabric is more than the 100% cotton denim [50,51]. Other synthetic fibers such as polyester and polypropylene fibers are also used. For making softer denim fabrics especially for women wear, blend of Cupro, Modal, Promodal, Tancel, and Rayon are being used. Bamboo fibers, hemp fibers and their blends are being used to make denim fabrics.
To impart fancy effect, different kinds of fancy yarns are being used. The examples of such yarn are slub yarn and multicount yarn [52]. The slub can vary in terms of thickness, length and twist. Such yarns can be manufactured at ring spinning and OE spinning machines by attaching special attachment. One of such attachments is Amsler control. Such fabrics give very unique effect after washing treatment.
Two methods of warping are practiced. These are ball warping and direct warping. Dyeing of warp yarns is done either by rope dyeing method or Slaser dyeing method. Rope dyeing is considered better in many aspects such as higher production, long runs, better dry and wet fastness and lot-to-lot shade consistency. Indigo dyes are generally used to dye warp yarns. In some cases sulphur black and blue dye can also be applied before indigo dyeing to achieve darker shades. Sometimes, sulphur dyes are also applied after the yarn is indigo dyed.
A lot of research is taking place to develop dyeing process which produces low impact on environment. Clariant has developed a range of low sulphide dyestuff and process to obtain various indigo shades at low dyeing cycle to reduce the consumption of water. Dyester has patented Indigo Vat 40% solution. It offers various shades of blue and claims 60-70% reduction in consumption of Sodium hydrosulphite.
Denim fabrics are mostly woven on high speed air-jet looms. Various loom manufacturers are offering a number of modifications to weave fault free high quality fabric. The modifications are done in the frame structure of loom to minimize vibrations, pre-winder, auxiliary nozzles, stretch nozzles, relay nozzles and weft brake system. Traditionally denim is 3/1 right hand twill fabric [53]. Nowadays 2/1 twill, broken twill, zig-zag twill, reverse twill, Herringbone twill weaves are used in denim fabrics.
Desizing of fabrics is done after weaving. This process can be done by acid desizing method and oxidative desizing method. But these processes are associated with a number of disadvantages. To overcome this, enzymatic desizing is preferred. Alphaamylase is used as desizing agent. Enzymatic process are more eco-friendly than chemical methods.
Washing of denim garments is one of the most important processes. This process adds a lot of value to the final garment. In the washing process, fading effect is imparted to the denim products. There are many methods to impart faded effects [54]. The traditionally washing is done using any of the methods or combinations such as stone washing, washing with strong bleaching agents such as sodium hypochlorite, potassium per magnet. These processes are not environment friendly Alternative methods have been developed. Cellulases enzymes are used in place of pumice stone to impart abraded effect.
Laccase based bleaching technique is developed. This enzyme only attacks indigo dyed yarn bit does affect nature of white weft yarn [55,56]. It can also be used to bleach fabrics containing elastane filaments without losing stretch property. Laser based techniques are used to give faded effect. Further this technique can also be used to create motifs on the denim fabrics. Ozone base denim washing treatments have been developed. In this process, ozone gas is used as bleaching agent, which attacks indigo dyes and destroy to create faded look.
Functional finishes such as antibacterial finishes, UV- protection finishes are applied on denim fabrics to improve functional performances of denim fabrics [57]. To enhance the durability of the finished fabric, nano encapsulation of the herbal extracts were performed and the results showed good resistance for microbes even after 30 industrial washes. The use of nanoclay is also reported to impart old look, soft handle, flame retardant and antibacterial properties to denim fabrics.
Silk denims
In the present global economy, the future of silk will increasingly depend on the industry's ability to relentlessly innovate new range of products. Product development has been a pressing need of the Indian silk industry and diversification into casual wear to address the changing market needs is critically important. The silk denim fabrics were converted into mens' shirts, trousers, jackets, kids wear, ladies skirts and tops. The garments were finished with enzyme treatment, acid wash, softening treatment with silicon softener. The silk denim fabrics in the weight range of 100-120gsm are suitable for mens' shirts, ladies tops and children's garments while the heavier varieties (above 120gsm) are more suitable for trousers, skirts, jackets etc.
The denim is a coarse twill weave cotton fabric, also commonly known as blue jeans/jeans. Taking clue from the history that denims/jeans were originally made of silk, wool, cotton and linen, an attempt has been made to develop different combinations of silk denim fabrics [58]. The mulberry silk of 20/22 denier in 6 and 12 ply organzine twisted and eri silk of 2/60s, 2/80s and 2/ 120s were used in warp. The warp yarn was dyed to indigo blue shade with acid dyes. The mulberry silk in 6 and 12 ply tram twisted and eri silk of 2/60s, 2/80s and 2/120s grey yarns were used in weft for development of 100% silk denim fabric. The cotton yarn of 2/60s, 2/ 100 Ne and linen yarns of 40s, 50s Le were also used in weft on the silk warp. Further, mulberry raw silk of 20/22 denier that can be doubled and twisted in the required plies and eri mill spun silk yarn available in the counts of 2/40s,2/60s,2/80s, 2/100s and 2/120s Nm and 20s Ne noil yarn can also be used for development of different varieties of silk denim fabrics. Silk denim fabrics in 14 combinations in the weight range of 100 to 300gsm were developed with 100% mulberry silk, 100% eri silk and their combination with cotton and linen as union fabrics. These denim fabrics were woven on rapier loom having width of 44 inches and 3/1 twill weave. The 20s Nm erinoil yarn was also used in the weft which gave the slub and fancy effect to the denim fabric. Thus, denims originally considered as rough and tough, and more suiting to work and casual wears are gradually finding their way into fashion wear. The silk denim garments are soft to touch, light in weight, comfortable to wear in all the seasons, blended with the luxury and smooth feel. The eri silk has thermal properties nearly equivalent to wool which makes 100% eri silk denim garments apt for winter. The silk x cotton and silk x linen union denim fabrics are more cost-effective without losing their comfort and silky appearance. These new products will add a new dimension to the denim and fashion world in general and silk and silk blended products, in particular, and open up a whole new range of fabric to the younger generation.
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Conclusion
The popularity of denim fabric from casual wear to work place has been well known. It is both fashion and performance driven. Effort has been taken to impart multi functional finish on denim fabric for value addition using titanium dioxide. The nano titanium dioxide treated fabrics exhibit good stain release property and also provides protection to the human body against UV radiation and microbial protection as well. Hence the single entity serves as a multi functional property to the denim world. Garments with multiple permutations and combinations of denim fabric variables like fibers, yarns, and Lycra % and weaving techniques are available with differing garment design statements, but the comfort aspect is slightly ignored. To cater to the masses living in hot and humid areas, a denim fabric is being projected with varying garment constructional parameters. Regenerated cellulose-based fibres/yarns are considered as eco-friendly, cool, soft, fairly strong, and durable among other manmade and natural fibre based yarns. Effort has been taken to develop comfortable denim clothing using regenerated cellulose fibre derivatives, maintaining its traditional rustic look for tropical regions. Fabric performance evaluation methods have been used to ascertain the performance of the newly developed clothing. It has become necessary to study of various techniques through which apparel industries are developing textiles with smart functioning, using new sustainable products to provide extra comfort and increased performance in an eco-friendly manner. Sustainability will be new key word or essential for all the denim/jeans brands/Denim manufacturers to withstand in the global environment. Novel finishes have been applied on denim fabrics. The impacts of the finishes are related to breaking force, spectral characteristics, and surface appearance. Significant differences have been noticed in comparison with modern finishing treatments and indicate in an effective segment of the garment sector only. The resilience properties of stretch denim fabrics have been studied on the basis of tensile properties and structural parameters. Recent development of silk denims which are soft, light and comfortable in all seasons, have added a new dimension to the denim and fashion world.
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Hey - Pat from StarterStory.com here with another interview.Today's interview is with Susan Costanza of Sleeves 2 Go, a brand that makes Snap-on sleeves.Some stats:Product: Snap-on sleeves.Revenue/mo: $2,300Started: September 2011Location: Lake Worth, FLFounders: 1Employees: 1Hello! Who are you and what are you working on?Hi, My name is Susan Costanza, I am the designer and founder of Sleeves 2 Go Inc.Sleeves 2 Go is an attachable flutter sleeve designed to snap on easily to a woman’s bra strap offering coverage & style of the upper arm when wearing a sleeveless garment. Sleeves 2 Go are done in lightweight chiffon & lace fabrics that mix & match beautifully with may different types of fabric and colors.. It’s a wonderful wardrobe solution for women of any age or size because Sleeves 2 Go are one size fits most.Over the years, The Sleeves 2 Go collection has grown into other functional fashion designs such as the slip extender which adds length to a short skirt or dress without having to visit a seamstress. I also created a shrug that is a tubular design done in a stretchy lightweight fabric that can be worn as a shrug or scarf, offering more coverage as a longer sleeve and is a great companion for any sleeveless or strapless garment. I also carry a line of pretty Poncho’s & Chiffon Vests that make for an easy stylish topper for summer outfits.My Mission is to help women embrace their own personal style! Whether it is to conceal aging arms, cover a scar, tattoo or maybe a dress code at the office that requires no sleeveless garments. Whatever the reason, we sometimes need a fashion fix-it that provides an easy solution to our everyday wardrobe needs. Creating the look you want is always in style !I started my company with a very small personal investment and chose not to take on any debt or loans. I wanted to build the company slowly and not overextend myself. My company is small but I am happy to say that Sleeves 2 Go has been profitable.What's your backstory and how did you come up with the idea?I have always loved fashion as far back as I can remember. After extensive years in the fashion industry, and 20 years as a fashion show coordinator & commentator, I’ve found the most common wardrobe dilemma women shared with me was "Why is everything sleeveless" or “I don’t like the way my arms look”.As women age the arms can be a trouble spot, and most of today’s fashion trends lean towards sleeveless dresses & tops, especially here in south Florida. The only solutions available were to cover-up with a sweater, jacket or maybe a wrap, which can make your outfit look dated or matronly. That’s how the idea of an attachable sleeve was born. After months of research and designing to create a prototype, I finally was able to get the attachable sleeve into production.My career as a fashion show coordinator gave me the perfect platform to present and demonstrate the Sleeves 2 Go on my models. It was a great way to see how the audience would react after the models showed a before and after demonstration on the runway. The response was so positive, they immediately came backstage after the show to purchase a pair. That’s when I realized I had a great product and that this could open a whole new fashion category for many women.Describe the process of designing, prototyping, and manufacturing the product.I have a background in Art & Design, so I can draw and create fashion on paper but I never learned how to sew. After I designed a pattern and created my first prototype, I then took this to a seamstress who helped me make some changes and tweak the design to get it right.It was very important to me that my product is made here in the United States. This led me to the clothing & textile industry in Miami to find a manufacturer. After months of research and meetings, my samples were coming back poorly made and a lack of quality workmanship.I expressed this issue to a very good friend who had a connection with a manufacturer in Tennessee. When I received my samples back from them I was thrilled! The sleeves were beautifully made and this manufacturer could also handle large orders for me.Since my product "the attachable sleeve" is so unique and one of a kind, I decided to file an application for trademark and a patent.The whole process took about four years to get approved and close to $5,000 in legal fees. A lot of hardwork and determination went into my invention but it paid off and I’m so excited and proud to be the owner of a United States Patent, received on May 31, 2016.Describe the process of launching the online store/business.I chose not to open a brick-and- mortar store and decided to sell my products online with an e-commerce platform. Back in 2011 when I launched my website and started to market my product, I was still working as a fashion show coordinator and did not want to give up that income right away. I was also juggling the responsibilities of being a Wife, a Mother & taking care of a home and 2 dogs. The thought of opening a store was daunting and I was not in any financial position to take that risk. My Husband & I got caught up in the foreclosure wave when the market crashed & we almost lost our home. It took 2 years but eventually the bank did refinance our mortgage and we were very thankful not lose our home. After that experience our credit was shot. So I took a leap of faith and made a small investment of about $5,000 to get my product manufactured and ready to sell. The e-commerce platform made more sense to me at the time and I could work from my home which gave me a lot of flexibility in my schedule.I launched my store with Shopify, a user-friendly website since I’m not very tech savvy. Initially, getting traffic to my store was slow. It took a good couple of years before I saw any profits.I made many mistakes but great lessons were learned. For example, not knowing how much fabric to buy and in which colors. At first I decided to make the sleeves available in basic colors such as black, white, ivory, brown and navy. The navy & brown sleeves were just not selling as fast and I ended up being overstocked with them. So I learned eventually what was a popular pick with my customers and went from there.They say the road to success is never a smooth one. However, I’m now able to navigate the internet more wisely and use the social media platform for most of my advertising. It offers great exposure for my company without spending thousands of dollars in advertising.Since launch, what has worked to attract and retain customers?I continued as a fashion show coordinator for a few more years to still have income while trying to grow my business.My background in fashion show productions was the perfect platform to market my product. I already had the connections and relationships with women’s clubs, charities and fundraising events where luncheon fashion shows took place.This also gave me the opportunity to take my business and sell on the go as a vendor or a pop-up-shop. One of the tools I use is Go Payment to process my sales and create orders on the go. Taking my company on the road to different locations and events also helps drive traffic to my website because of the exposure I get at many of the larger trade shows.About 2 years ago, I started working with a sales Rep at the Trendz Shows.Trendz is the largest women’s apparel show in the state of Florida that showcases clothing, accessories & more, for the purpose of wholesale orders and is open to the trade only. This has given me the opportunity to get better exposure for my company and to get my product into retail stores. Since then, I have opened many new accounts that include local boutiques and specialty stores. I’m still trying to get my foot in the door with the larger department stores, hoping to someday be like Sara Blakely the "Spanx founder". Dreams don’t happen overnight so I’m in it for the long haul and enjoying every moment!I also use MailChimp a wonderful app that allows you to create newsletters and send email blasts to your customers to promote your store. When a customer purchases from the website they are automatically put on my newsletter list. I also build on my customer list from many of the trade shows I attend. I’ll offer a promotion like "win a free pair of Sleeves 2 Go" or if they want to receive our newsletter, they have to fill out their name & email information on a piece of paper that goes into a jar. At the end of the day I pick a winner and have gained new emails. Once a month I send out a newsletter to my customers offering a discount or sale usually around 20% off their purchase. A great way to get repeat business.How is everything going nowadays, and what are your plans for the future?Right now I run the business by myself and hire an assistant when I do events or participate in the larger trade shows a vendor.I work out of my home & handle shipping & receiving to keep my overhead and costs low. My goal is to eventually bring Sleeves 2 Go Inc. to the next level for mass retail distribution.I envision a successful and prosperous future, looking forward to the journey ahead!Through starting the business, have you learned anything particularly helpful or advantageous?When I decided to switch careers from being a fashion show coordinator to CEO of Sleeves 2 Go, I went from selling a service to selling a product. So, this has been a big learning experience for me.What I learned is that, no matter what you are selling, do it with integrity, believe in your product or what you are doing wholeheartedly, work hard and work smart!I really enjoy sharing my resources and fashion advice to help women embrace their own personal style. That’s what inspired me to create a wardrobe solution for women of any age or size. It’s not only about looking good, it’s also about feeling confident!What have been the most influential books, podcasts, or other resources?I really enjoy reading and have found these books to be very inspiring and insightful:What I Know For Sure by Oprah WinfreyAnd One More Thing Before You Go by Maria ShriverThe Money Class by Suze OrmanThe Right Words at the Right Time by Marlo ThomasThis is just to name a few, they are filled with great advice for finding success, fulfillment, prosperity and developing a positive outlook on life.Advice for other entrepreneurs who want to get started or are just starting out?If you have an idea for something or an invention go for it.Be creative, take risks, make mistakes, it’s all part of the learning process.Follow your dreams no matter what other people think and always trust your gut & stay true to yourself.This is one of my favorite quotes by Henry Ford - "Failure is simply the opportunity to begin again, only this time more intelligently".Where can we go to learn more?www.sleeves2go.comI am also on Twitter, Pinterest, Facebook & Instagram as @Sleeves2GoLiked this interview? Check out more founders that shared their story on StarterStory.com.
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