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parkrangercirca2016 · 7 years

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North Cascades; Season Two, Episode One

The weather in Rockport, Washington is 81 degrees right now. It’s sunny with the occasional breeze to cool things off. Washington and Rainy Passes have been open for less than a week, and the Cascades received--for the first time in several years--a typical winter snowfall. The Skagit River and it’s tributaries are swollen with spring runoff, the rhododendron are in full bloom, and State Route 20 is packed with bicyclists enjoying the weather.

Tomorrow I start my second summer season at North Cascades National Park. This past winter I worked at Mount Rushmore, which was good. I was lucky to have a winter job with the Park Service, and I’m hopeful that I’ll be able to go back to South Dakota for the winter again. The winters there are much nicer than back in Illinois. Sure we had a few days of below zero temperatures compounded with frigid wind chills, but when it snowed, it didn’t stick around for long and the temperature didn’t really stay below freezing for long. There was also very little to do with my time off over the winter. The Black Hills area shuts down for the most part once the tourists leave for the year. One bar stays open in Keystone, and a Subway stays open in Hill City. Other than that, you are on your own.

Chapter One, The Surprise

On May 11th, at 5:01 PM, I left work at Mount Rushmore and started driving home. Earlier that day I had checked out of housing and turned my keys in. I had told Jillian that I would be leaving South Dakota on Friday the 12th, the same day as her Honors Convocation, and that I would try my hardest to make it back to the Quad Cities for dinner with our families that night. Unbeknownst to her I was going to surprise her at her Honors Convocation by making it to Macomb by 2:00 when the program started. It was a long drive to make, especially after having worked for 8 hours earlier that day. My plan was to drive for as long as I could (safely, mind you, I’m not a maniac) and then find a place to stay for the night.

As it turns out I made it to just about halfway to Macomb that night. I ended up getting a hotel at just a little past midnight in a town called Worthington. It’s located in Minnesota on Interstate 90 and gets most of it’s business, I’d imagine, from travelers on I-90. The hotel clerk didn’t seem too pleased to have been woken up, but I got my room and had a nice night’s sleep until 6:00 AM when I hit the road again. It’s probably good that I was tired enough to sleep so well because the smoke detector in my room needed a new battery and chirped every fifteen minutes. I slept through all of the chirps.

The drive to Macomb was mostly uneventful. I turned on my little GPS unit so that I could keep track of what my estimated time of arrival was, and battled it the whole way down, it seemed. First it told me that I’d be arriving at 1:40. then I stopped for gas and it said I’d be arriving at 1:47, then I’d battle it back down to 1:40, and so on and so forth. My stops for gas were a little like pit stops in an IndyCar race, although mine were considerably longer.

Cedar Falls, Iowa was my last stop at around 10:15 that morning (Jillian and her family, it turns out, had left only an hour before that.) While I was topping my tank off in Cedar Falls I grabbed a piece of pizza to tide me over until dinner. That pizza was the only thing that I’d had to eat that day because the stores in Worthington, MN aren’t open as early as I was up. Luckily I made it to Macomb with plenty of time to spare for the Honors Convocation. When I came in I didn’t see where Jillian’s family was so I grabbed a seat all to myself in the back and settled in to enjoy the convocation. It was a good convocation. Jillian was recognized for graduating Summa Cum Laude, for graduating as an Honors Scholar, for graduating as the RPTA Departmental Scholar, and for graduating as the College of Education and Human Services Scholar. She sure did make a lot of noise with all those medals around her neck as she walked off stage.

One of her sisters had noticed me sitting on the other side of Western Hall just before the ceremony began, but Jillian didn’t see me until I hunted her down after the program. The look of surprise and joy on her face was well worth the drive after work, and the hours of driving that day. (Her graduation was good, too, although she was the second to last person to receive her degree during the commencement and the audience had already lost focus by that point, so they all started standing to stretch and blocked most of our view of her receiving her degree.)

Chapter Two, The Plan

Once Jillian was a college graduate, the two of us could go ahead and celebrate with a small vacation before I started my summer season. For many weeks the two of us had planned on having her ride with me from the Midwest to Washington State, and now we could put the plan into action. The day after her graduation, May 14th (Mother’s Day), each of us were in our respective hometowns packing. Jillian had less to pack than I did because she would be flying home after I made it Washington. I spent part of my Sunday unpacking my winter stuff and packing my summer stuff, but the rest of that day was family time.

Tami, Manny, Maximus, and Hudson came to visit for the day. It was good fun, although it had been so long since Maximus had seen me that he was unsure about me. Hudson was too little to notice, and far too preoccupied with his newfound ability to pull himself into a standing position and then look around until somebody could sit him down. He hasn’t figured out that part yet.

After Tami and her boys left, I packed my car. Thank’s to Dad’s due diligence, the oil had been changed and it had received a new right side tie rod end. The trip to Washington will use most of that new oil change’s 5,000 miles. I will also need to buy new tires for the car in Washington. These are starting to wear thin.

Jillian and I’s itinerary was thus:

Monday-pick Jillian up in Cedar Falls and drive to the Black Hills, camp.

Tuesday-pick up the rest of my stuff from fellow Mount Rushmore Ranger Jeanie in Keystone, then drive to Yellowstone, camp.

Wednesday-spend the day having fun in Yellowstone, camp.

Thursday-drive to Glacier National Park, camp.

Friday-drive to Spokane, WA, find a hotel to shower.

Saturday-move in to my summer home in Rockport, WA.

Sunday-Jillian flies home. :(

Pretty much all of that worked.

Chapter Three, On the Road

I picked Jillian up in Cedar Falls just a little after 9:00 in the morning. Unfortunately no members of her family (besides her dog, Bella) were around to see that I really do know how to find their home when I drive through Cedar Falls. From Cedar Falls we set out north, towards Minnesota and I-90. I had planned on listening to several episodes of the podcast Harmontown during the drive, but as we approached Waverly some sort of poltergeist possessed my iPod and turned on the aid for the visually impaired. There was a voice reading all of the episode titles out loud to us, and in addition to that, it started to play whatever songs it felt like, and not my un-listened to podcast episodes. Jillian plugged her iPod in, and the same poltergeist took up residence there, too.

We did what any young, hip Millennial couple would do and googled the problem on a smartphone. No help was found there for our very specific problem. I took the auxiliary cable out of my car’s dash, unplugged the iPod, and flipped the cable around. Everything worked after that.

We grabbed some lunch in Sioux Falls and stretched our legs after the grueling drive across Minnesota’s stretch of I-90. (Minnesota, if you’re reading, get your act together and up your speed limit; that part of your state is no different from South Dakota and you should be able to drive more than 70.) Then we put the hammer down to get to the Black Hills before sunset.

We took a short detour through the Badlands so that we could stop looking at flat grassland out the car window’s, and so that we could get out and walk around for a little bit. During our brief stop in Badlands National Park we saw a couple of bighorn sheep, and a few bison. Then we went in to Rapid City for dinner. Dinner was at a Tex-Mex place called On the Border. The food was good, but we were also comparing it to what we had gotten at a fast food joint.

The plan we had made called for camping somewhere in the Black Hills that night. By the time we made it to Ellsworth Air Force Base we had a pretty good idea that camping wasn’t going to happen. The Black Hills are so named because, with the ponderosa pines growing on the slopes, the hills look black from a distance. That night, as we made our way towards them, they seemed blacker than usual. And that was because of the storm clouds coming in over them. Knowing South Dakota’s propensity for hail, we decided to not stay in a tent and to find a hotel instead. So we stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in Keystone, just a short way from Jeanie’s house. It was good that we did, because it hailed as we ate breakfast the next morning. The hail finished before we checked out, but the rain and fog stayed.

After breakfast we crammed a couple of my totes into the back seat of my car and stopped to see Jeanie at her museum in Keystone. Allow me to briefly plug it: The Keystone Historical Museum is a good museum that celebrates the rich history of the town of Keystone, and even houses a few artifacts from our favorite Little House on the Prairie. Go and visit.

It was a little after 10:00 that morning when we left Keystone and bought groceries at the Krull’s in Hill City. After that we set off through the fog and rain that still hadn’t cleared up. This was our longest day of driving, and also some of the best. The road was boring from Deadwood to Sheridan, WY. We stopped in Sheridan for lunch.

And let me say something about Sheridan. I don’t understand that town. There are 17,916 people that live there, which is less people than Macomb has when WIU is having classes. I have stopped in Sheridan a total of three times, and every time I have stopped, traffic has been nonstop, bumper to bumper. It’s a nightmare trying to get somewhere there if you can’t check all of your blindspots. What is Sheridan’s problem?

Jillian and I ate Taco Bell for lunch, but got it through the drive through so that we could keep driving. We bought one big soda to share. I spilled some of it on my pants because the lid leaked. I don’t think that I’ll ever stop in Sheridan again. I always have bad experiences there.

After Sheridan we exited the interstate for Highway 14 and started driving into the Bighorn Mountains. That was an excellent drive. As we moved up into the mountains we both saw half a dozen moose. At first, from a distance, I thought that there was a horse on the side of the road, but Jillian corrected me and said that it was a moose. And she was right. Then I saw another moose out the left side of the car, but I thought that it was dead because it’s rear was up in the air while it had both of its forelegs outstretched with it’s head down to the ground as it faced us in the car. Eventually it stopped bowing to us and stood up. In the middle of the mountains there, Jillian saw a wolf. I was not fast enough to see it too. We also saw three moose standing well of the road near some trees. Then we saw a baby moose on our way out of the mountains.

Once we were out of the Big Horns, we drove through rangeland until we got to Cody, Wyoming where we bought gas before entering Yellowstone National Park. We got through the east entrance before dark when there was just enough light to see two young men give us a heart attack. As we approached Yellowstone Lake we saw a bison on the side of the road. One of these young men was getting his picture taken with it. As we came upon them we both thought that he was too close. Once we drove past he ran right up to the bison and touched it. Thank the good Lord that he didn’t get gored. Never get close to a bison. They can out run and out turn a barrel pony. You won’t escape it.

After we both thought that we were going to witness a death, it started to rain. Then we climbed higher in the park and the rain turned to snow. Our campsite at Madison was at 6,800 feet, and it was raining there as we pulled in. We pitched the tent quickly before making some macaroni and cheese for dinner. Jillian was cold, so she got into her sleeping bag and left me to finish the big pot of mac’n’cheese, which I did not because there was a lot.

At some point in the night the rain stopped, and turned into snow. Getting ourselves up that Wednesday morning was hard. Our sleeping bags were warm, and it was cold and white outside. Eventually hunger got the best of us and we got up to make some oatmeal. Our neighbors were brushing their cars off and warming them up. It had only snowed an inch or so, but it was still coming down.

The snow kept falling all day. Unfortunately that meant that neither of us was comfortable with finding snow covered trails to hike so we spent the day driving from boardwalk to boardwalk and checking out the thermal features in the park. We also watched many bison. Even though it was May and snowing, there were dozens of tour buses in the park and all of the boardwalks were crowded. I’m glad that I don’t have to work there in the summer.

At lunch time we decided that we would go and get some food at Old Faithful. Lunch was wonderful in the old lodge there, and I filled myself up at the buffet while Jillian ate a bison burger. I texted Tami during dinner and told her about the live webcam at Old Faithful. We made it from lunch to the geyser just in time to see it erupt. Unfortunately it took Jillian and I forever to figure out where the webcam was pointing so that Tami could see us online. We disappointed her by not striking a pose or waving to the camera. We also couldn’t figure out where the camera was, because the one you see online is not the camera that you see in the window of the Old Faithful Visitor Center.

There was more snow Wednesday night. We had to clear off about four inches from the car on Thursday morning and put my tent away wet. But that was okay, because Yellowstone is, I think, much prettier in the snow than it is in the green. You can pick out thermal features from a distance, because of the vast plumes of steam spewing from the ground, and the bare, snow-free patches of earth that are too warm for snow to stick to. It’s an American treasure.

Our drive out of Yellowstone and towards Glacier was dandy. The snow turned to rain, and then the rain cleared up by Bozeman, Montana. We even had good enough cell service for Jillian to watch her youngest sister run at the state track meet in Iowa. (They got third place, or so I hear.)

We had beautiful weather in Glacier National Park, and took a wonderful drive as far up Going-to-the-Sun road as we could. Both of us decided that we would plan a trip just to Glacier sometime in the future to enjoy it more. And May was a great time of year to go since there were so few people there. We got to walk down by Lake Macdonald all by ourselves.

Friday was a little sad because we wouldn’t have any more National Parks to drive though once we left Glacier. It was just the open road until we could get to Rockport, WA. The two of us decided to stick to Route 2 and cut across Idaho’s panhandle. That was a good choice, it was a scenic drive that was only broken up by a large stretch of road that the state’s Department of Transportation had torn up, left, and then posted 35 MPH speed limit signs.

Spokane later that afternoon was a wake up call. It was the biggest town we’d been in since Rapid City and had traffic that was almost as bad as Sheridan’s. We grabbed a room at a Holiday Inn Express and showered. I had been worried going into that hotel because, after we parked, I raised my arms and caught a whiff of my body odor after three days of driving and staying in parks. It was not good. Thankfully the attendant at the counter, who is my new best friend because of how nice and cheerful he was, either didn’t notice or didn’t say anything. Jillian and I felt like new people after we’d showered.

Dinner was at Chili’s down the road, and then, because we had so much time on our hands what with the time change to Pacific Time, we took a walk through one of the most beautiful parks we’d ever been to, Riverfront Park. It was within walking distance of the hotel and we spent a few hours checking out the new construction in the park, and enjoying the waterfalls that ran through it. It ended up being quite a bit of walking because we slept like the dead once we got back to the hotel after sunset.

Saturday was short. The drive from Spokane to Rockport is only five hours or so, and the scenery in eastern Washington isn’t anything to write home about. Coming over Washington Pass was incredible, though. It had only just been opened on Tuesday and the road crews had dug out 45 to 50 feet of snow from the avalanche zones. There were places were the snow had fallen as deep as my car was tall. It was just like driving through a tunnel, or between two cornfields on a narrow road.

Chapter Four, A New Home

All of the snow in my part of the valley is gone. Flowers are blooming, the trees are leafed out, and it’s almost hot. The house I’m staying in is a delightful little place. Two stories, wood floors, three couches, a wood burning stove, long dining room table, big kitchen, and a full-sized bed, unlike the little twin beds the Park Service has in their housing. Lots of windows in the house, too. And a great big porch. (Three of them, actually.) I think that this will be a nice place to live for the next few months.

Today, though, was the saddest day. Because Jillian and I had to be on the road by 6:30 in time for her to board her flight at 10:47 AM. She goes back to spend her summer at a girls’ camp in Wisconsin, and I probably won’t get to see her again until I’m home at the end of September. It would have been nice if the week had been able to stretch out just a little bit longer. But I guess that you can’t always get what you want.

I hop into training tomorrow. It’s already been going on for a week, so I suppose I’ll see what I’ve missed so far. I can’t imagine it was anything I didn’t know from last year.

Anyhow, I’ve procrastinated long enough. I’ve got to go and get my stuff together for tomorrow, and get lunch made, too. Then go to bed and rest up.

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