#lwj cosplay log

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log - Master Post

Making Lan Wangji

(AKA My Lan Zhan Cosplay Log)

This went from a historical project to cosplaying all the Hanguang-Jun, Lan Wangji in existence!  The main concept is Lan Wangji’s (LWJ) novel/manhua/audio drama design.  As the project started pre-pandemic, I didn’t consider the butler or dragon au in the design.  That would be too much.  There is a dash of videogame in him since there were some details I liked in that model.  If the title is “Mo Dao Zu Shi” then I have incorporated Lan Wangji’s description and concept arts into my design.  

Lan Wangji as known in The Untamed was generally avoided save for a tiny nod to the show’s Gusu Lan Clan.  “Mo Dao Zu Shi” Wangji and “Untamed” Wangji are distinct in my opinion.  Neither is superior from the other, just different enough that I need to pick one interpretation to play with.  The actors of Untamed, especially Xiao Zhan, really claimed the characters as their own and portrayed them wonderfully.  Wang Yibo’s Wangji is his Wangji, I won’t interfere that.  If you want to see that interpretation of Lan Wangji, then go watch the show.  It already exists.

A few caveats before you dive in:

1)     I am not a seamstress or tailor so I don’t know all the proper sewing terminology in English or any other language 2)     Also, modern romanization of Chinese confuses the shit out of me, a native speaker, so apologies for any spelling mistakes.  The Yale Romanization made so much more sense but then China thought they understood the English alphabet better than native English speakers so here we are.  Do as the Romans do, I guess. 3)     I am not a historical costumer either so all my info come from conjecture and research 4)     I am not a Chinese historian but I like to think I know enough about my history and culture through osmosis and the hell-hole disguised as Chinese school to talk about it 5)     I am not trying to make an authentic historical costume, I’m trying to make an anachronistic fantasy costume. Historicity went out the window the minute LWJ and every adult character decided to have their hair down.  I did try to make a semi-historically accurate version?  Depended on the mood at time of construction. 6)     I suck at being Chinese apparently so that will be my safety net if everything fails horribly :P  

The Lan Zhan Cosplay Log Layer 1:  Undergarments! 中衣 Layer 2A:  Yichang 衣裳   Layer 2B:  Ruqun 襦裙 Layer 3:  Zhiju 直裾 Layer 4A:  Leatherwork Layer 4B:  Jade Bling Layer 5A:  Dachang 大氅 Layer 5B:  Bijia 比甲 Layer 0:  Hair, Props, “Cheating,” & Overall Stats

Exhibit:  LWJ cosplay in action [1][2]

Citation

Patterning:  https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Qb411j7z6?spm_id_from=333.905.b_72656c61746564.1

http://www.yeoh.com/index2.php?section=journal&g=691

https://cosplayqna.tumblr.com/image/38971971992

https://torguqin.wordpress.com/hanfu/hanfu-tutorial-list/

Hanfu Resources:

@ziseviolet:  https://ziseviolet.tumblr.com/about

@fouryearsofshades:  https://fouryearsofshades.tumblr.com/post/179249195707/hello-do-you-happen-to-have-a-master-post-of-all

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log

Layer 4A:  Leatherwork

This part of the cosplay was new territory for me as I usually do not make form-fitting costumes.  At least, not hugging my natural shape.  Not to mention it had been a while since I had to work with stretch fabric.  I used Kamui Cosplay’s draping technique to draft the gauntlet and boot cover patterns and it worked the first time!  Once I had a functional pattern, it was easy work adding zippers and ringlets to keep it all together.  This was when I was starting to realize getting dressed would rapidly become a 2-person job. ^_^;

Note authentic Huwan (护腕) or Chinese bracers tend to be on the short side and cut off at the wrist.  LWJ is not wearing that.  He’s wearing anachronistic fantasy bracers because stretch fabric apparently exists in this universe so he can wrap up his hands without hindering his strumming.  So that was what I made.  (Though it would be a simple matter to make historically accurate huwan…will think on it)

I extended the suede strings so they can wrap around the wrists like Bangshoudai (绑手带), which only serve to keep sleeves in place and tend to be seen on archers.  While not pictured, LWJ wrapping his wrist like an archer makes sense.  He needs to play so doesn’t hurt to keep everything around the forearms secure.  I also made a thicker ribbon with leftover fabric (basically bias tape) that can be used to lace the huwan or simply as bangshoudai, in case I need a more authentic look.

The belts were a more straightforward matter.  Just measure, pattern, sew.  Or in the case of the narrow belt – measure, mark holes, hole punch, dye, and then install snaps.  Speaking of dyeing, the Koolaid formula I used was:  2 packs light blue + 1 pack dark blue + 1 pack purple

Leather Dyeing Tutorial:

1) Mix Koolaid flavor packs in 2 cups hot water 2) Submerge leather/suede for 20min, be sure to flip sides for even dyeing 3) Rinse off excess color from leather 4) Dry for at least 2hrs 5) Ready to use!

Koolaid dye works great!  The colors are vibrant, it lasts on unprocessed leathery material well, and it eternally smells like artificial fruit.  Also it’s (allegedly) safe and crazy cheap.  Do not add sugar, that is gross.  While 20min is sufficient time for the color to stay but I dyed the leather for 1hr/side for a slightly darker shade.

As usual, there’s a video tutorial to sum everything up.  Note that I sometimes switch to another workshop to do certain tasks since that one has a workbench that can take hammering and a ventilated space for spray painting.  But it has no tripod so I can’t film while I work.  Hence the filmography being all over the place and frequent location changes.  Wait, can I include my driving hours in my maker time?  :P

[yugiri315]

LWJ Cosplay Log

Layer 3: Zhiju 直裾

The final piece of the Chinese 3-piece suit.  It is the basic wrap-around robe you see when you look up generic hanfu.  I added forward slits because…the official art said so.  Gotta show some leg (and the ruqun I painstakingly pleated!)~ The piece is secured with frog clasps and the lapels I made from scratch, it’s like making giant bias tape.

But what is truly noteworthy about my zhiju is the inside because of course I dedicate too much effort on the inside.  There are 3 pockets each large enough to hold a smart phone.  In traditional hanfu your sleeves and lapel are your pockets but I installed hidden pockets for extra security and to pretend I have pocket dimension sleeves like they do in cultivation novels.  The zhiju is also lined with beautiful blue and copper shenyun silk!  If you are lucky, I may flash you with some “雲雨” (clouds & rain is an euphemism, look it up) XD

Not to mention the zhiju is actually quite versatile.  I can wear it casually as a sort of dachang if I really want to.

Below is how the zhiju look, worn as intended.

Assistant Photographer/Videographer:  Dr. Tog