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xindesheng-shoes · 4 years

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The most detailed process of running shoe production

raw material

Running shoes are made of a variety of materials. The sole is divided into three layers: insole, midsole and outsole. The insole is a thin layer of artificial ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA). The midsole provides most of the cushioning, and their composition varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Usually, it consists of polyurethane that surrounds another material (such as gel or liquid silicone), or polyurethane foam that is given a special brand name by the manufacturer. In some cases, polyurethane may surround a capsule of compressed air. The outsole is usually made of hard carbon rubber or softer blown rubber, although manufacturers use a variety of materials to create different textures on the outsole.

The rest of the covering is usually a synthetic material, such as artificial suede or nylon braid, with a plastic board or wood board that supports the shape. There may be leather coverings or nylon coverings with leather attachments. Cloth is usually limited to shoelaces installed through plastic eyelets, and nails have been replaced by an adhesive called an adhesive, which binds the various components together.

design

In the past 15 years, the design of running shoes has undergone tremendous changes, and the running shoes are now available in various styles and colors. Contemporary shoe designers focus on the anatomy and movement of the foot. They use cameras and computers to analyze factors such as limb movement, the impact of different terrain on impacts, and the impact of feet on impacts. Athletes are labeled pronators if their feet roll inward or supinators if their feet roll outward. Along with pressure points, friction patterns and impact forces, this information is entered into the computer, and the computer will calculate how to best adapt to these conditions. The designer will then test and develop prototypes based on the research on joggers and professional runners, so as to make the final design for the final mass production.

Running shoes may have as many as 20 parts, and the components listed below are the most basic. There are two main parts of a shoe: the upper (covering the top and sides of the foot) and the sole (contact with the foot).

When we move around the shoe in a clockwise direction, starting from the front of the upper part is the feather line, which forms the edge where the tip of the fender (or toe protector) meets the sole. Next comes the upper, which is usually a single piece of material that can shape the shoe and form the toe box. The shoe upper also has attachments, such as the throat, which contains the eyelids and shoelace parts. Under the shoelace part is the tongue, which can protect the foot from direct contact with the shoelace. Also attached to the upper along the sides of the shoe are reinforcements. If sewn on the outside of the shoe, these reinforcements are called saddles; if sewn on the inside, they are called bow bandages. Towards the rear of the shoe is the collar, and the upper usually has an Achilles tendon protector at the rear of the top of the shoe. Foxing shapes the back end of the shoe. Under it is a plastic cup to support the heel and heel.

There are three main parts at the bottom, the outsole, the midsole and the slope heel. Outsole provides

The first step in running shoe manufacturing involves die-cutting shoe parts with a cookie cutter. Next, stitch or glue together the parts that will form the upper part of the shoe. At this time, the upper does not look like a shoe, but a round cap. The extra material is called the permanent margin. After the shoe upper is heated and installed around the plastic mold called the shoe last, the insole, midsole and outsole are glued to the shoe upper.

The first step in running shoe manufacturing involves die-cutting shoe parts with a cookie cutter. Next, stitch or glue together the parts that will form the upper part of the shoe. At this time, the upper does not look like a shoe, but a round cap. The extra material is called the permanent margin. After the shoe upper is heated and installed around a plastic mold called the shoe last, the insole, midsole and outsole are glued to the shoe upper.

Traction and absorb shock. The midsole is designed for shock absorption, and the slope heel supports the heel. The insole is located inside the shoe and also contains arch support (sometimes called arch cookies).

manufacture

process

Shoemaking is a labor-intensive process, and the cost of producing many components of running shoes reflects the necessary skilled labor. Each stage of production requires precision and skills, and taking shortcuts to reduce costs may result in the production of inferior shoes. Some running shoes (called "slip shoes") do not have an insole board. Instead, a single layer of upper is wrapped around the top and bottom of the foot. However, most running shoes consist of an insole board, which is glued to the upper with cement. This section will focus on cement shoes.

Transport and stamping fabrics

1 First, the prepared synthetic material rolls and dyed, split and suede leather (used as part of fox skin) rolls to the factory.

2 Next, the shoe shape is stamped with a compression molding machine, and then it is cut in the form of a cookie cutter and various marks are engraved to guide the rest of the assembly. After packaging and labeling, these works will be sent to another part of the factory for stitching.

The complete running shoes have been tested for quality through the procedures established by the shoes and the United Trade Research Association. Defects inspected include poor durability, incomplete cement bonding, and incorrect stitching.

Assemble the upper and insole

3 Sewing or gluing the parts that make up the upper part of the shoe, and punching the shoelace hole. These components include feather threads, uppers, mudguards, throat (with eye and lace parts), tongue, saddle or bow bandages and other reinforcements, collars (with Achilles tendon protectors), tops and logos. At this point, the upper does not look like a shoe, but a round cap, because when the studs are glued to the sole, there will be excess material (called permanent edges) folded under the sole.

4 Next, sew the insole on the side of the upper. Then add the hardener to the heel area and toe box, and insert the insole board.

Attached upper and bottom

part

5 Heat the finished shoe upper and put it around the shoe. The shoe last is a plastic mold that forms the final shape of the shoe. Then, the automatic last helper pulls down the shoe upper. Finally, a cement nozzle is used to apply cement between the upper plate and the insole plate, and then the machine presses the two parts together to bond them together. The upper now has the exact shape of the finished shoe.

6 Layer and glue the pre-stamped and excavated form of the midsole and outsole or wedges to the upper. First, align and glue the outsole and midsole together. Next, align the outsole and midsole with the upper and place them above the heater to reactivate the cement. When the cement cools, the upper part and the lower part are joined together.

7 Take out the shoes from the last shoe and inspect it. Scrape off excess cement.

Manufacturers can test their materials using procedures established by the Footwear and Joint Trade Research Association (SATRA), which provides equipment designed to test every element of shoes. After the shoe is completed, the factory's inspector will check for defects such as poor durability, incomplete cement bonding and stitching errors. Because running can cause injuries to the tendons and ligaments of the feet and legs, another test is currently being developed to evaluate the shock absorption performance of the shoes.

future

In the near future, experts predict that current design and manufacturing processes will continue to improve, rather than major breakthroughs. In the next ten years, the size of sports shoes will become a worldwide standard. Designers will continue to seek lighter weight materials to provide better support and stability when the gel and air system are further used. Electronic components will also be built into running shoes so that microchips can be used to measure information about physical characteristics and development, and then download them to a computer. Another feature that has begun to appear is a battery-powered lighting system to accommodate jogging at night. As consumers continue to spend millions of dollars on comfortable running shoes.

read more:Top Private Label Running Shoe Manufacturers And Suppliers

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pinkledstone · 4 years

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How To Expand The Useful Life Of Marine Rubber Fenders

The production of marine rubber fenders has moved from the manufacturers that developed them to lower-cost producers, with no heritage knowledge of the products they currently make. This has created a disjoint between the manufacturers and the people that design and sell the end products. Complicating matters, there are no true standards governing the ‘nuts and bolts’ of fender design. There is little to assist in the design of cost-effective fenders. Furthermore, there is little understanding of neither what actually causes fenders to fail, nor how buyers can optimize their fender lifetimes.

Standards are of little practical help

The bad news for those looking to invest in new fenders is that the most critical issues for successful rubber marine rubber fenders are not covered in any standard. Current standards and guidelines deal primarily with broad theories and virtually not at all with the simple details that make virtually all the difference between troublesome and robust designs.

The only extant standards deal with these general theories, the proprietary design of specific rubber fender elements (not the entire fender), and/or the assessment of the energy capacity of fender elements. The most widely used guideline for the design of fender systems is Guidelines for the Design of Fenders (sic) Systems: 2002, published by the International Navigation Association (PIANC). It gives guidelines for determining energy requirements, but no details of how to design a fender system. Its six-page Appendix A, ‘Procedure to Determine and Report the Performance of marine rubber fenders’ is the only section of this seventy page document familiar to most fender specifiers. However, not only is Guidelines…not a standard, but due to errors in the final editing process two critical sections were reversed. The result is that for the majority of testers a critical part of the procedure description is likely unintelligible. Thus, its actual usefulness is limited.

This is not as much of a problem as it otherwise would be, because the same year Gudelines… was published, ASTM International, the largest standards-writing organization in the world, issued Standard F 2192, ‘Standard Test Method for Determining and Reporting the Berthing Energy and Reaction of marine rubber fenders’. An important revision was issued in 2005. This is the document that the performance testing part of Appendix A was intended to be, and it is the only standard for determining the performance of marine rubber fenders.

ISO 9000 certification is not necessarily any assurance. Achieving ISO 9000 status requires that a manufacturer produce a consistently-repeatable product, and document it, but does not require that it make a product that is fit for service. On balance, it is better than nothing but not a magic bullet.

My own experience has led me to believe strongly thatall the worry about measuring fender energy and reaction is a tempest in a teapot. Investigations of many fender problems, multiple types and manufacturers show that inadequate fender performance (energy and reaction) is almost never the primary cause of fender problems.

Also, seldom is fender compression deflection a cause of fender failure. Often specifications stipulate that fender deflection shall not exceed a certain percent of undeflected height (for durability concerns). Actually, fenders designed to have a greater rated deflection operate at a lower strain and stress level than ones designed to deflect less.

Specifying rubber

The ultimate useful life potential of any rubber product is controlled by its chemistry. Aging and ozone resistance of the rubber, from which fenders elements are molded, are two of the most important criteria that determine useful life potential. Most fender specifications don’t specify rubber ozone resistance at all, and many specify an acceptable aging resistance that is considerably lower than it could be for maybe one per cent higher cost.v

For more professional information, please visit the page of ysmarines.com.

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olivereliott · 6 years

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Feel the Illinoise: A DR-Z400 for the streets of Chicago

Federal Moto havethe Midas touch. The builds coming out of their Chicago workshop are sharp-edged, compact and big hits with our readers.

But sometimes, success can be a double-edged sword. After releasing ‘The Sunshine State of Mind’ SR500 in 2016, Federal were bombarded with requests for a replica build. “But there’s no fun in building the same bike twice,” says lead builder Mike Müller. “We love the support, but we also want our clients to have a one-of-a-kind bike.”

So Federal generally suggest to their clients that they build another one-of-a-kind bike. “Just as thumpy, just as wheelie-enabled, and just as awesome!”

That’s what happened with ‘Big Suzie,’ a DR-Z400 commissioned by a local Chicago-based client. “He’s a father of two, a businessman and city livin’,” says Mike. “He grew up on Honda CRs, Suzuki RMs and Yamaha YZs in the early 90s.”

Federal’s client wanted a dependable city thumper with the Federal touch: a bike that he could take for an occasional romp if the setting was right.

The Müllers knew right away what bike to use: the tried-and-tested DR-Z400 platform, launched at the turn of the century. As a major bonus, the street-legal DR-Z400S variant has electric start—a must-have upgrade from the SR500 platform used for ‘Sunshine.’

The slim Suzuki also has CDI ignition, a 21-inch front wheel, and good Showa suspension: 49mm adjustable forks, and a shock adjustable for high- and low-speed compression, as well as rebound damping.

With agreement on the 2005-spec donor bike, Federal whipped out the grinders. “We made a new subframe out of 7/8” square steel to match the OEM main frame,” says Mike. “Importantly, this uses the OEM bolt-on points for mounting—and may be a future Federal product. We integrated a LED taillight into the subframe as well.”

Then Federal ditched the clunky plastic OEM tank and mated an SR500 tank to the frame. “Like the DRZ, the SR500 also has oil in the upper neck of the frame,” Mike reveals. “So the tunnel was wide enough to fit, and the lines were perfect with the stance we were going for.”

The crisp tank design comes from art director Chris Paluch, with paint applied by Peter Gamen of KandyVan. It’s a colossal improvement on the garish yellow usually seen on DR-Z400s. As is the neat, minimalist seat pad—upholstered by Dane Utech.

But after fitting the SR500 tank, it turned out that there wasn’t enough clearance for the OEM radiator and the front wheel. So Federal sourced a Honda VFR400 radiator, and plumbed it in with HPS high temperature silicone hoses.

After a little modification and some custom brackets, they got enough safe clearance for the front tire to make it work.

The bars are Renthal’s 7/8 Road Ultra Low bend, fitted with Biltwell Kung Fu grips plus a compact gauge, switchgear and bar-end blinkers from Motogadget. Renthal also supplied the 49T Ultralight rear drive sprocket and matching gold R1 MX Works chain.

The quick-adjust clutch and brake lever are from MSR, and a Hella lamp now lights the way.

There’s quality everywhere you look on this DRZ400. The suspension front and rear has been completely rebuilt and the brake rotors are new, upgraded items. The fenders are custom-made from 3003 aluminum alloy, and hand-rolled with custom brackets. The entire frame is powder coated.

The wheels are powder coated too, and have been re-laced with stainless steel spokes. They’re now shod with Metzeler’s highly regarded Karoo 3 dual sport rubber.

Even the motor looks better than new, with a mix of polished and ceramic-coated surfaces protected by a Devol Engineering aluminum skid plate. There’s a high-flow Uni Filter at the intake end, and a custom exhaust routed to follow the subframe geometry. (It exits through a 12-inch stainless steel Cone Engineering muffler.)

Federal have hidden most of the electronics under the tank, including a Motogadget m.unit Blue control box. It’s fed by Antigravity’s smallest and most powerful lithium battery, the SC-1.

“I have to say, this hooligan, thumper style of build is my favorite to do,” says Mike. “It’s a kinda Federal staple. Maybe one day I can keep one for myself.”

We wouldn’t mind one ourselves, either. Older DRZ400s are cheap and easily located, and if looked after, will keep going forever—on both city streets and fire trails. Maybe this is the perfect ‘real world’ custom build?

Federal Moto | Facebook | Instagram | images by Grant Schwingle

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itsworn · 6 years

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The Dustbin Duster: Mopar Project Car Update

Project Dustbin Duster:

Update & Reboot

Our Duster project got pushed to the side for a few months but now we’re back at it. The new roll bar is in, and the front core support has been replaced. The big Viper brakes up front are just mocked up in this picture. We’ll have all the details on how we installed them next time.

Our Dustbin Duster project was on hold for a few months while we worked on another car, but now we’re back on track. The time away from the project gave us some time to think about how the car was coming together. After some reflection, we decided to make a few changes so the car would be easier to drive on the street. One big change was the decision to switch engines. We had been planning on using a 700hp, 470-inch big-block, but we decided instead to go with a milder, but larger, 512-inch wedge.

We decided to switch to a pump-gas 512 cubic-inch wedge. The 512 will still use the Holley EFI system, but we eliminated the motor plate due to interference with the factory-style water pump and alternator. The 512 has a hydraulic roller cam, 10.4 compression, and CNC-ported heads. It should have enough power to put us deep into the 10s at the track.

Other changes include installing bigger front brakes, adding a stiffer front suspension, and upgrading the cooling system. In short, the build was headed a little too far into race car territory, so we decided to push it back towards the street side of the street/strip balance. We are still aiming for low tens at the track, but now when it is on the street it will be safer to drive and easier to live with.

With the motor pate out of the picture we had to use a factory-style K-frame and motor mounts. This is a vintage Direct Connection K-frame with late model spool mounts. The spool mount K-frame is from a 1973-or-newer car, but it bolts right into our 1972.

One complication with switching to the 512 engine was that it had straight spark plugs rather than angled. The big TTi headers which we had purchased for the project were designed for angled plugs, so they were sold and replaced by a set of smaller 1 ¾ inch headers, also from TTi. The smaller tube headers fit the Duster perfectly and they’ll support the power output of the new 512-inch engine.

The OEM-style motor mount on the right fits our K-frame, but the internal rubber bushings were in poor shape. Fortunately, Schumacher Creative Services makes replacement spool mounts with polyurethane inserts as shown on the left.

We had been planning to use a motor plate with the 470 engine since it had a Jesel belt drive and an electric water pump, but that motor plate didn’t fit with the accessory drive on the new 512 engine. Fortunately, we had an old Direct Connection big-block K-frame sitting in storage, so we pulled it out for a test fit. The engine fit fine with the big-block K-frame and it provided us with extra space for the front accessory drive. The rubber in the original spool-type engine mounts had deteriorated, so we contacted Schumacher Creative Service for a set of their polyurethane mounts.

Car crafting is all about the mockup. An A-Body—compatible big-block oil pan requires clearance for the steering linkage, and it is much easier to work out the issues on the bench than in the car. Be sure to install everything on the mock-up to verify that it will fit and work together when it goes in the car. We test fit four different oil pans before we found one that worked just right.

The Duster needed some chassis work, which we were not equipped to handle in our shop, so we sent it out to a local chassis shop. The chassis shop removed what was left of the old mild-steel roll cage and bent up a new chrome-moly roll bar. They also installed aluminum interior panels, welded in new mounting locations for the rear leaf springs, and installed a new radiator core support. The new core support was sourced from US Car Tool and is made from heavy 12-gauge material. It is designed to accept a large 26-inch radiator from a full-size car and to provide additional clearance for the water pump. A healthy big-block can overwhelm an original radiator, so we decided to install a big radiator now to avoid a serious problem down the road.

The core support from US Car Tool is designed to mount a 26-inch wide radiator with extra clearance for a conventional water pump and fan. The core support is built from heavy 12-gauge steel for additional strength at the front of the car.

At this point it feels like we have a good roadmap for the rest of the build. The time at the chassis shop was well spent since it solved some issues which had stymied us. The next steps are to finish the brake system and dyno test our new engine. Stay tuned.

We had a chassis shop install the new core support as well as the stiffening structures under the inner fenders. These new parts make the chassis stiffer and they will provide a solid foundation for other items such as the front spoiler, radiator, and hood pins.

Quick Vehicle Details

1972 Plymouth Duster

512-inch big-block Chrysler wedge

727 three-speed automatic transmission

Strange S60 rear axle

Holley Dominator EFI system

sequential port injection and coil-near-plug ignition

A late-model B-Body radiator is mocked up in the car for now, but a final decision hasn’t been made on which radiator to use. We will cover the new cooling system in an upcoming article once we figure it out.

We installed the Direction Connection K-frame along with a mock-up engine so we could confirm that everything fits together. Sliding a long tube thru the main bore of the engine block verifies that the engine is sitting “square” in the chassis, which is actually offset a couple of inches to the passenger-side in muscle-car era Chryslers.

Once the core support was squared away, we hung the front sheetmetal to check fender alignment and panel gaps. Our upper grill support needed to be trimmed to clear the new core support, but everything else lined up nicely.

The grill was installed to check fitment and we discovered that the clearance holes in the core support were in the wrong location. We must have made a mistake in the CAD file that was sent to the laser shop. Now we need to figure out how to modify parts that are welded in place.

The chassis shop installed a new chrome-moly roll bar complete with diagonal back braces. They fabricated aluminum panels for the back seat and package tray, and they welded in new mounting brackets for the leaf springs. We don’t have a tube bender in our shop so it is nice to have a local chassis shop with the right tools nearby.

The new Pro Dash from Holley is here, and it is big. We will need to perform major surgery on the dash in order to mount this screen. The Pro Dash has a large 12.3-inch diagonal screen size with touch-panel controls and is compatible with our Holley Dominator ECU. We are planning to use the Pro Dash as the only instrument panel with no other gauges in the car.

The post The Dustbin Duster: Mopar Project Car Update appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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robertkstone · 7 years

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2016 Honda Civic Touring Long-Term Verdict

It’s been 15 months since we welcomed our long-term 2016 Honda Civic Touring to the #MTGarage and asked, “Has the Honda magic returned?” That’s a tough question to answer because magic isn’t quantifiable, but it came to mind every time I hopped into our Rallye Red test car. Regardless of its return, the Civic is an outstanding sales success for Honda, especially here in California, where it’s been the best-selling car for two years. With an achievement like that, we were eager for a long-term evaluation.

One big draw is likely the Civic’s new 1.5-liter turbo-four paired to a continuously variable transmission. For starters it’s relatively good at sipping fuel, which is something many Californians care about now that they pay an average of $3.23 for a gallon of fuel, the highest in the nation (as of this writing). Our test car was hard at work the minute it arrived—it spent many hours slogging through L.A. traffic, withstood numerous heat waves (with A/C on blast), and endured editors who know nothing else but to go hard on the gas pedal. That said, our Civic’s observed average fuel economy was a solid 32.2 mpg. And a look at the fuel log reveals five occasions where our Civic exceeded 40 mpg between fill-ups.

The powertrain had a peppy side to it, too. Acceleration was smooth and brisk, and the engine never felt out of breath lugging around five passengers or climbing steep inclines. The transmission was responsive and always on point—one the best CVTs we’ve experienced in recent memory. And many trips to the Malibu Canyon roads revealed that Honda didn’t skimp on chassis development, either. With a suspension system that combines standard MacPherson struts up front and a multilink setup out back, the Civic eagerly stayed planted through corners and was simply satisfying to navigate through twisty roads. Its variable-ratio steering system worked as advertised, especially with low-speed agility, which I especially appreciated while maneuvering tricky parking spots.

Some notable incidents pulled our Civic out of the MT Garage rotation. A hit-and-run incident while it was parked on the street caused substantial damage to the driver-side rear fender and door, requiring almost two weeks of body repair. Then there was the worrying ordeal due to a faulty transmission control module, which completely bricked our test car and required a tow truck for a rescue trip to the dealer. This occurred while our Civic was still relatively new, but other than that, it was trouble-free for the remainder of its stay.

Despite the down time, we managed to rack up 30,828 miles on the odometer. Our Civic looked just as fresh as it did when we first took delivery, including the leather seats and other interior touch points that are prone to wear and tear. No squeaks or rattles to report, either. Four routine maintenance visits cost us $483.20, though that total could’ve been about $100 less if it weren’t for one dealer that was twice as expensive as the others. For comparison, our previous long-term 2014 Mazda3 S GT set us back $162.55 for two service visits in 22,000 miles, and our 2013 Volkswagen Jetta GLI cost us nothing, thanks to complimentary maintenance for three years/36,000 miles.

Notes and comments from staffers were mostly positive. The infotainment system, however, was one common source of frustration, with its jumbled interface and clumsy capacitive-touch volume slider. Honda can do better, and it has—the new 2018 Accord, for example, gets a next-gen infotainment system that’s more responsive, sharper, and has a good old-fashioned volume knob. Other than that, we were impressed with the overall build quality, ergonomics, best-in-class legroom, and plenty of features showcasing Honda’s thoughtful engineering and attention to detail—the center storage console, for example, is not only spacious but also features multiple tiers of sliding trays and cupholders, a USB port, and an armrest that’s perfectly lined up with the one on the door. Then there’s the long list of tech, including remote start, adaptive cruise control, and a driver-assist system that automatically provides mild steering inputs to keep you in your lane.

One intern, who had lots of seat time in our Civic and a friend’s Audi A3, declared that the Honda was a “worthy adversary” to the fancy German sedan and “an amazing value.” It’s hard to argue with that assessment when you consider the Civic Touring’s premium features and a price tag just under $28,000. A similarly equipped front-drive A3 commands almost $10,000 more.

So back to that magic. Senior features editor Jonny Lieberman explained it pretty well following a Big Test compact sedan comparison that the Civic handily won. “Honda magic is tricky to define, but to me it means that in a given competitive set [like this one], the Honda product stands out,” Lieberman said. “It drives better, it feels better, it’s engineered better, and it’s got special sauce—the X factor.” And after spending a year with the 10th-gen Civic, we’re even more convinced that Honda’s magic wand is stronger than ever.

Read more about our 2016 Honda Civic Touring:

2016 Honda Civic Touring Long-Term Arrival

Update 1: Civic Si Lite?

Update 2: Growing Pains?

Update 3: Road Trippin’

Update 4: Honda Sensing

Update 5: What an Audi owner thinks of our Civic Touring

Our Car SERVICE LIFE 15 mo / 30,828 mi BASE PRICE $27,375 OPTIONS Wireless charger unit ($250), rubber floormats ($142), trunk tray ($114), wireless charger attachment ($55) PRICE AS TESTED $27,896 AVG ECON/CO2 32.2 mpg / 0.60 lb/mi PROBLEM AREAS None MAINTENANCE COST $483.20 (4-oil change, inspection, tire rotation) NORMAL-WEAR COST $0 3-YEAR RESIDUAL VALUE* $18,700 RECALLS None *IntelliChoice data; assumes 42,000 miles at the end of 3-years

2016 Honda Civic Touring POWERTRAIN/CHASSIS DRIVETRAIN LAYOUT Front-engine, FWD ENGINE TYPE Turbocharged I-4, alum block/head VALVETRAIN DOHC, 4 valves/cyl DISPLACEMENT 91.3 cu in/1,497 cc COMPRESSION RATIO 10.6:1 POWER (SAE NET) 174 hp @ 6,000 rpm TORQUE (SAE NET) 162 lb-ft @ 1,700 rpm REDLINE 6,500 rpm WEIGHT TO POWER 16.8 lb/hp TRANSMISSION Cont. variable auto AXLE/FINAL-DRIVE RATIO 4.81:1/1.95:1 SUSPENSION, FRONT; REAR Struts, coil springs, anti-roll bar; multilink, coil springs, anti-roll bar STEERING RATIO 10.9:1 TURNS LOCK-TO-LOCK 2.3 BRAKES, F; R 11.1-in vented disc; 10.2-in vented disc, ABS WHEELS 7.0 x 17-in cast aluminum TIRES 215/50R17 (M+S) Firestone FT140 DIMENSIONS WHEELBASE 106.3 in TRACK, F/R 60.9/61.5 in LENGTH x WIDTH x HEIGHT 182.3 x 70.8 x 55.7 in TURNING CIRCLE 35.7 ft CURB WEIGHT 2,919 lb WEIGHT DIST, F/R 61/39% SEATING CAPACITY 5 HEADROOM, F/R 37.5/36.8 in LEGROOM, F/R 42.3/37.4 in SHOULDER ROOM, F/R 56.9/55.0 in CARGO VOLUME 14.7 cu ft TEST DATA ACCELERATION TO MPH 0-30 2.6 sec 0-40 3.8 0-50 5.2 0-60 6.8 0-70 8.8 0-80 11.3 0-90 14.3 0-100 17.9 PASSING, 45-65 MPH 3.2 QUARTER MILE 15.3 sec @ 93.0 mph BRAKING, 60-0 MPH 120 ft LATERAL ACCELERATION 0.84 g (avg) MT FIGURE EIGHT 27.4 sec @ 0.64 g (avg) TOP-GEAR REVS @ 60 MPH 1,600 rpm CONSUMER INFO BASE PRICE $27,375 PRICE AS TESTED $27,896 STABILITY/TRACTION CONTROL Yes/Yes AIRBAGS 6: Dual front, front side, f/r curtain BASIC WARRANTY 3 yrs/36,000 miles POWERTRAIN WARRANTY 5 yrs/60,000 miles ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE 3 yrs/36,000 miles FUEL CAPACITY 12.4 gal EPA CITY/HWY/COMB ECON 31/42/35 mpg ENERGY CONS, CITY/HWY 109/80 kW-hrs/100 miles CO2 EMISSIONS, COMB 0.55 lb/mile REAL MPG, CITY/HWY/COMB 30.1/40.0/33.8 mpg RECOMMENDED FUEL Unleaded regular

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itsworn · 6 years

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Improve Your Mopar’s Handling With Suspension From The King

Our Week to Wicked 2006 Chrysler 300C has gone from family cruiser to street beast thanks to the extra horses from an Edelbrock E-Force supercharger and better handling with a complete Petty’s Garage suspension upgrade.

Car Craft went off the beaten path—hey, it’s what we like to do—when we chose to significantly upgrade a 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT8 for our latest Week to Wicked build.

The 300C probably isn’t the first car that comes to mind when you think of building a hot rod, but the 300 actually has good bones. It’s built on the LX/LC platform, which is the same used for the Charger and Challenger (although with a four-inch shorter wheelbase), and the curb weight isn’t that much more. So the performance potential should theoretically be similar.

The Petty’s Garage suspension kit for the Chrysler 300C ($1,499) includes single-adjustable shocks along with new springs. We paired them with stiffer swaybars ($330) for the front and back. In addition, we’ll also be installing a rear shock tower brace ($334), also from Petty’s Garage.

Earlier in the week, we’d already boosted the 6.1-liter Hemi’s output to 550-plus horsepower thanks to an Edelbrock E-Force blower. To make the handling match the power, we turned to Petty’s Garage, who have recently developed their own suspension package specifically for the LX/LC platforms.

For the uninitiated, Petty’s Garage is the performance shop owned by Hall-of-Fame racer Richard Petty and housed in the old Petty Enterprises race shops in Level Cross, NC. “We started developing custom shock and suspension packages for all of our cars back in 2008,” explains Will Cheek of Petty’s Garage. “As you know, we’ve got a racing background here, and there are several guys that have a lot of experience setting up cars. But we also did a lot of testing on road courses, drag strips, and general street driving while coming up with these kits.

Before we start ripping things apart, here’s a good look at the 300C’s front suspension with the brakes out of the way. The front shocks are coilovers, but there is no adjustability. Not bad, but not great, either.

“What we wanted at the end of the day is a package that can do two things really well. First is a better stance. So we designed the adjusters so that you can get the car really low if you like and also get it back up for general street driving. Second, we wanted the adjustability so that a guy can use it on a track day and have a blast with it with the shocks really tight and the ride height set low, and then you can soften it up and raise the car to use it as your daily driver without beating your teeth out on the interstate.”

With the coil spring tucked up high in the fender, it’s nearly impossible to get a spring compressor to work in the confines of the car. The easier option when it comes to removing the front shocks is to bust the upper ball joint lose. That allows you to pull the lower control arm down enough to free the shock from the mount in the top of the shock tower.

Unlike some speed shops that simply pay to have a shock manufacturer private label a set of shocks for them, Petty’s Garage actually developed their own specs and has the shocks manufactured to their standards. That’s why if you ask, they don’t even share the spring rates. Instead, we were told that they feel that the overall package works optimally together as a unit (although, it is easy to purchase replacement springs wherever you like).

The new front shock from Petty’s Garage bolts right into place. There are three fasteners at the top of the shock tower and one large bolt connecting the shock to the lower control arm, and you’re done. Petty’s Garage already set the threaded adjuster on the shock, so when we do drop the car back on the ground the ride heights should already be correct.

The shocks bolt right into the stock locations and are single-adjustable with “clicker” knobs on top of the units. The adjusters control both compression and rebound and have 30 “clicks” of adjustability. Petty’s garage recommends starting with the dampers centered (15 “clicks” in) and adjusting from there. “It is pretty hard to feel one click of adjustment on the shocks,” Cheek explains, “so what we suggest is make a change, either harder or softer, five clicks on the knob and see how that feels. If it is good, keep going and see if that helps even more. Once you know you’ve gone too far, start dialing it back until the car is exactly like you want it.

The Petty’s Garage front swaybar is beefy. It measures out at 35 mm, which will certainly stiffen things up versus the stock 27mm bar. It does, however, bolt up in the same location, which makes installation a piece of cake. The bar also has three mounting locations for the end links. We installed them in the middle hole, which allows the option to either stiffen (moving to the inner hole) or soften (outer hole) the bar later on.

Another cool option is Petty’s Garage can set the adjusters to the recommended height ahead of time. When you check out the photos with this story, you will notice that we didn’t take the normally preliminary steps to measure ride height before ripping into the car. That’s because the kit arrived with the ride height adjusters already locked into the correct spot the specialists at Petty’s Garage have already determined will provide the best ride quality for the 300C. This is an option you have to ask for when ordering your kit, but it is certainly something we recommend. You can always adjust the car’s ride height later to your liking, but this method gives you a great starting point.

With that, the front end is essentially finished. The shock adjuster for the front is accessible under the hood on the shock tower. Both the front and rear shocks feature 30 levels—or “clicks”—of adjustment. At their recommendation, we set all four shocks centered at 15 clicks in as our starting point.

Unlike the front, which uses a coilover setup, the rear suspension on the 300c separates the coil spring in its own pocket.

Even though the spring is separate, the gas pressure in the shock makes it tough to compress enough to remove. We fought it for a while and eventually got both out using a pry bar to compress the shocks enough to squeeze them out from under the pocket in the tower. But later you will have to unbolt the independent rear diff to remove the stock swaybar, so the better solution is to unbolt both shocks, unbolt and drop the rear diff an inch or two (you will have to do it anyway), and let the shocks practically fall out on their own.

Make sure you don’t drop the rear diff until after the shocks are unbolted, and also make absolutely sure the diff is supported at all times. It’s heavy! By the way, dropping the diff a bit will also make removing the old springs a piece of cake.

Chrysler engineers placed the rear swaybar between the cradle for the rear diff and the body. It was likely no big deal to drop it into place on the assembly line, but the location makes the swaybar impossible to remove without dropping the diff. The trouble is worth it because the stock swaybar is pencil thin—a mere 15 millimeters thick—and about as stiff as boiled pasta.

Once you’ve figured out the puzzle to get the stock swaybar out, the 27mm thick sway bar from Petty’s Garage will practically fall into place.

The new rear suspension will keep the spring separate from the shock, but Petty’s Garage did engineer this really trick ride-height adjuster that works almost exactly like a coilover and nests between the spring and the upper spring mount. We like that Petty’s Garage also engineered dense rubber isolators on both sides of the adjuster to limit squeaks and rattles.

The new rear spring is stiffer and shorter than stock, so even with the addition of the machined ride height adjuster, everything fits right into the old spring pocket.

The new rear shock bolted into place and is ready for action.

The rear tower brace helps lock in the rear suspension on this unibody car to eliminate movement. It bolts around the shock towers and then crosses forward and attaches at the floor of the trunk using bolts for mounting the seat bracket.

Here’s a closer look at how the rear tower brace mounts to and supports the rear shock tower. You can also see the blue knob that is the adjuster for the rear shock absorber. An extension is included, which allows you to easily adjust the shocks after the truck liners are reinstalled.

Patterns are included that show you exactly where to cut the carpeted trunk inserts to clear the new brace. Because the brace extends forward from the shock towers and not toward the rear bumper, you still retain a surprising amount of trunk space.

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itsworn · 6 years

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Jean Aiton’s 1992 Fox-Body LX is Basically an 8-Second Renegade Street Car

The Mustang has been around for over five continuous decades, so when it comes to building that dream car, the possibilities are seemingly endless. For Jean Aiton, that dream car was built into an 8-second Fox-body street car. “I’ve been told it’s a Renegade car that I force on the street,” Jean says. “I built the car keeping the NMRA True Street class in mind, but more than anything I built it for my enjoyment and to remain a street car.

Jean, a Sergeant at the Huntsville Police Department, left no stone unturned in his search for his perfect Mustang build. Having owned different Mustangs along with several Fox-body Mustangs over the years, he researched many different generations and drivetrain combinations, but he kept coming back to that familiar Fox-body platform.

Jean stumbled across this 1992 Mustang LX on a local Craigslist ad back in 2011. The car was powered by a stock-block 347ci engine with a Vortech V-7 YS supercharger, Lunati Voodoo cam, 170cc Dart Pro 1 heads, a T5 transmission, and 3.73 gears. Exhaust flowed through 1-5/8 shorty headers, a 2.5-inch off-road mid-pipe, Dynomax mufflers and stock tailpipes.

He met the owner at Huntsville Dragway where he watched it make a 6.88-second run at 105 mph in the eighth-mile with easy launching and granny shifting. He knew the car made decent power and had potential despite its stock computer, Super FMU, heavy wheels, stock chassis and all factory suspension.

Jean Aiton, Sergeant at the Huntsville Police Department, built his dream car, a killer 8-second Fox-body street car. After searching different Mustang platforms and combinations for his build, he knew he had to build a mean Fox-body, and he left no stone unturned. Jeans says everyone tells him its a Renegade car he forces on the street. “To each their own, but for me, nothing delivers that feeling of a sledgehammer to the face like a nasty Fox-body.”

Originally the car was painted Deep Emerald Green but is now slathered in Jewel Green Metallic after the body shop used the wrong paint code for a 1993 Bronco. Heath Terry, owner of Southside Rods and Resto in Arab, Alabama, spent 50 hours wet-sanding and fixing the mistakes made by the previous painter.

Jean’s Fox is now powered by a Ford Racing A4 302-based 8.2-inch deck block bored and stroked to a 349ci with a compression ratio of 10:1. An Eagle 5.4 crank works in conjunction with Diamond pistons via Eagle H-rods and a custom grind on a Comp hydraulic-roller camshaft. The engine was built by Dale Meers Racing Engines in Buffalo, Kentucky.

Built by Ron Sharpe of Advanced Airflow Engineering, Trick Flow Specialties heads sit atop the engine with Twisted Wedge 225cc intake runners, and a Holley Systemax ported upper and lower manifold that was previously installed on Alton Clements’ championship NMRA Renegade car. Feeding the thirst are Holley 120 lb/hr fuel injectors. Titanium intake and exhaust valves that measure 2.08 and 1.60, and he installed Crower shaft mount rocker arms. Oil is pumped through a Melling oil pump, and a Milodon 7-quart rear sump pan seals the bottom end.

“The heads were ported for the NMRA Renegade class. They were formerly on Mike Post’s Renegade car,” Jean tells us. Extensive work on both the intake, exhaust ports and bowl work with a lot of attention paid to mid-lift flow. It features titanium retainers with 8-degree keepers and locks, 1.550-inch diameter dual springs on intake and exhaust with a damper. The Seat pressure is 150 lbs. and 440 lbs. open at .600-inch lift.

To really amp up the power, a Vortech V-7 YSi with a max of 28 psi is mated to a custom throttle-body and features a Vortech 50mm cog crank pulley; the upper cog pulley varies depending on running a street or race tune. A standalone Speed Density MAF helps keep things in check, and a Blowzilla blow off valve is mounted on the 4-inch intake pipe. With the Meziere 55gpm water pump, custom radiator and twin fans pushing 3,412 cfm, keeping cool in Alabama hasn’t been an issue.

“I stayed with a supercharger rather than a turbo for a couple of reasons. I have always enjoyed the sound of the supercharger and the exhaust with the more aggressive cam profile than a turbo combo. I enjoy the car being so aggressive sounding and that also fits the look of the car,” Jean explains.

Powering Jean’s Fox-body is a Vortech supercharged Ford Racing A4 302-based 8.2-inch deck bored and stroked to a 349ci with a compression ratio of 11:1. It also features Trick Flow Specialties heads (ported for Mike Post’s NMRA Renegade car) with Twisted Wedge 220cc intake runners, and a Holley Systemax ported upper and lower manifold that was previously installed on Alton Clements’ championship Renegade car. Eagle crank and H-rods and Diamond pistons help make up the rotating assembly with the help of a custom grind hydraulic-roller Comp cam. Holley 120 lb/hr fuel injectors help feed the fuel thirst.

Adding to the orchestra are 1 7/8-inch powder coated Hooker headers that flow down to a modified 3-inch X-pipe and Spintech Super Pro Street 9000 series mufflers.

Huges Performance from Phoenix, Arizona, built the Extreme Duty 4L80E with a fully manual valvebody and transbrake. It also features a PST steel driveshaft complete with a Stifflers safety loop, and a Derale cooler with a fan keeps everything at temp. The 4,000-stall helps launch the car along with a Custom PTC Billet lockable converter. “With the 4L80E I can enjoy even highway speeds because of the overdrive. With the ability to lock my converter, at 70mph in overdrive with the converter locked I’m only at 1,200 rpm’s,” Jean says. Shifting power is provided by a Kilduff Machine shifter with polished sticks, a powder coated knobs, and transbrake switch.

Ignition components consist of an MSD 7531 Digital 7 ignition box and billet low profile distributor with crank trigger, Ford Racing wires, HVC II race coil, and NGK plugs. The 200-amp one-wire alternator was previously used in Brian Mitchell’s championship NMRA Renegade car.

The suspension is backed Strange 10-way shocks in the front and rear, front 14-150 with coilovers, and rear QA1 10-350 springs. The Ford 8.8 rearend is stuffed with Ford Performance 3.73 gears and Moser 31-spline axles. Wolfe Racecraft adjustable rear upper and extensively modified lower control arms, with a Wolfe anti-roll bar and UPR k-member, and Wolfe travel limiters. The car also has Wolfe through the floor subframes, mini tubs, solid spherical bushings, and Wolfe adjustable spring perches welded in place to fine tune the ride height.

The H.O. Fibertrends 3-inch fiberglass cowl hood is held by MRT bolt-in hood struts. Scott Rod fab inner fender and frontend panels and strut tower panels are specially made in aluminum and smoked one-piece headlights grace the front.

Weld Magnum 15×3.5 wrapped with Mickey Thompson 26x6R15 Sportsman radial rubber grace the front, and 15×9.25-inch wheels sporting Mickey Thompson 275/60-15 ET Street Street Radial Pro’s on the rear used on both the street and track. Stopping power is provided by front Aerospace Components street brakes and rear Strange Race vented disc brakes.

The cabin features all the factory interior enjoyments except for air conditioning and power steering, but a Flaming River manual rack makes steering a breeze. It still has the factory LX seats, but the back seats have been narrowed to clear the Wolfe mini tubs while still retaining the rear folding function. For safety, an 8.50 certified Wolfe 10-point Chromoly cage is tig welded inside. Jean modified the center console to fit around the Kildruff Machine shifter while still featuring two cup holders. Because street car.

The interior features stock LX cloth seats but the back seats have been narrowed to clear the Wolfe mini tubs but still fold functionally. For safety, an 8.50 certified Wolfe 10-point Chromoly cage is tig welded inside. Other safety equipment includes a Simpson 5-point harness with quick release and Stroud window net. The interior also features a Scott Rod Fabrication center console that Jean modified to fit around the Kildruff Machine shifter. He also installed custom-made billet LED laser etched buttons for the engine fan, transmission fan, water pump, converter lockup, line lock and transbrake that were made in Australia. Let’s not forget the two cup holders in the center console, well, because street car. A Wolfe parachute mount with a Simpson parachute really help to halt things with a quickness.

“The main intention of this car is to remain a streetable 8-second car. The car has good street manners considering how extensive the modifications are,” Jean tells us. “Not many cars at this level anywhere can you reach in and turn the key to start it and it stays running. Chris Terry of CTR Race Cars has done an amazing job keeping the street manners in check without any surging or bucking.

A big thanks goes to Jean’s wife Emile, and his twins Hailey and Hunter, Chris Terry for all the tuning and suspension details, Heath Terry of Southside Resto and Rods for paint and body details, Pet Herron of Pro-Tech for chassis work, Scott Rod Fab, Jason Meador of Fastang Custom Fab, Dale Meers of Dale Meers Racing Engines, UPR, and Wolfe Racecraft. Another Thanks goes out to Alton Clements and Brian Mitchell.

The new setup has yet to be tested. “We are expecting four-digit power numbers and running at our 8.50 certification won’t be a problem.”

The post Jean Aiton’s 1992 Fox-Body LX is Basically an 8-Second Renegade Street Car appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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itsworn · 6 years

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Replacing a C3 Corvette Evaporator

Both evaporators and heater cores have a dramatic affect on the comfort level inside a Corvette. Another thing they have in common is that their replacement is a job many owners dread. Fortunately, each can be replaced separately at different times because there is very little labor overlap for these procedures in a C3. Part 1 showed heater core replacement and restoring the effective operation of the heater box and ducts. Part 2 details the replacement of the evaporator, which some Corvette owners—particularly those of us in southern states—may argue is more important than the heater core.

Replacing the evaporator can be easier than replacing the heater core on many C3s. Disconnecting the VIR (Valves-In-Receiver assembly), which was used from 1973-’77 (early), can be the toughest part of the job. But even then, take some consolation that this job is much easier than on many late-model cars and trucks. As an example, some European luxury cars require four full days of shop labor to replace their evaporators.

If your car has a VIR, one modification that makes this job so much easier is to install a VIR replacement kit. Your C3’s air conditioning is then converted to an orifice tube system like most modern A/C systems. An orifice tube system is much simpler and easier to work on. Plus, an orifice tube can be selected (or easily changed) for the inexpensive and readily available R-134a refrigerant. If that’s the route you decide to go, it’s recommended to install a modern, efficient compressor that is designed for cycling at the same time. (The compressor is cycled on and off while driving in an orifice tube system.)

Grab your wrenches and some Zen, and let’s replace a C3 evaporator. Vette

1. Remove the coolant overflow (radiator supply) tank. To squeeze this tank out from under the fender it was necessary to loosen the air-conditioning compressor adjuster and swing the compressor inward, toward the valve cover.

2. Remove the right splash shield for access to the VIR and the lower side of the evaporator housing. You many need to remove the three forward screws on the rocker molding and pry it out a little to access the two outer bolts. In addition to repainting, this shield needs the rubber molding that was stapled on its inner side.

3. A 1 1/16-inch wrench or large adjustable wrench is needed to remove the largest fittings on a VIR, plus a mix of wrenches from 3/4-inch to 7/16-inch to disconnect the other hoses and tubes. Fortunately, they shouldn’t be very tight because it’s the O-rings that accomplish the sealing.

4. The evaporator housing (cover) is attached to the blower motor housing with five screws. Tip: tighten each screw first to see if the fiberglass screw hole is stripped in the evaporator housing. If so, you can repair it after removing the housing.

5. The stud holding the evaporator housing to the firewall is the easiest attachment point to access. Unplug all the wires on both housings, don’t worry about labeling them; they’re different for each component so there is no worry about plugging them back in incorrectly.

6. Only two other screws remain. The small lower screw goes through the housing and into the metal plate. The threads of the upper screw are just visible to the rear of the exhaust manifold. This screw has to be removed from the inside.

7. The last screw is located under the heater box on the left end of its lower flange. You may need to peel the carpet down or remove an interior strut rod to access it. (The right dashpad is removed for this photo.)

8. Gently pry the evaporator housing away from the firewall and the blower housing. Tip: insert a scraper behind the housing at every place you can access to break the bond of the sealant. Use caution; the evaporator housing can be brittle after enduring many years of engine compartment heat.

9. Don’t be surprised if you see a pile leaves at the bottom of the evaporator housing. Over time it’s common for debris to sneak past the air inlet screen. Wiggle the housing forward, up and out.

10. With the evaporator housing removed, you can see the heater core and the door that can close to block air from going through the heater core. Tip: take a minute to move the heater control to make sure the door fully opens and closes.

11. The replacement of the evaporator is easy once the housing is removed. Only three screws attach it to the housing.

12. I strongly recommend that you test-fit the VIR or other A/C parts that connect to the evaporator before installing them in the car. If any minor bending is needed to an evaporator tube, it’s far easier to do that now to make all the tubes fit properly.

13. The two forward mounting tabs need to be bent up to a right angle. This is easily accomplished with needle nose pliers.

14. Clean the old sealant from the sealing groove using a scraper or screwdriver. You don’t have to remove every speck of old sealant; the new sealant is very effective.

15. Apply the new sealant all the way around the side and rear mounting surfaces of the evaporator core.

16. Install the new rubber grommets and inspect to see if any air gaps remain. Applying some of the sealant rope around the tubes effectively closes off any air gaps.

17. The GM Service Manual says to put 3 ounces of compressor lubricant into a new evaporator when it’s installed. My preference is for mineral oil when using R-12 in older systems.

18. Install the new foam gasket onto the blower motor housing. After scraping off the old gasket, apply 3M weatherstrip adhesive, or similar, to both the housing and the new gasket. Let them sit for a minute and then press them together. You don’t want this gasket to slip during assembly.

19. Slide the evaporator housing back into position in the engine compartment. Loosely install the two upper screws and nut before going under the car. Tip: spring clamps can help compress the rope sealant and an ice pick can help align the parts to enable the one interior screw to be installed.

20. Reinstall the wiring harness connectors. This is easy; each plug is different so it’s hard to make a mistake.

21. Replace the desiccant bag and filter screen in the VIR. This should be done any time the air-conditioning system has been opened to replace a part. Wait until it’s time to install the VIR before opening the desiccant package and installing the desiccant.

22. Corvette Central’s VIR maintenance kit (left) has the desiccant bag, filter and lower O-rings. Their A/C O-ring kit has all the other O-rings necessary for the other A/C parts. Lubricate the O-rings and install the VIR or other A/C parts. The mechanical work of replacing the evaporator is finished. That wasn’t so bad, was it?

23. Connect a vacuum pump to the system for at least 30 minutes to draw any moisture out of the system. This is also a useful check for leaks before installing the refrigerant. If there is no moisture in the system, a new evaporator should cool your cockpit for decades.

24. Corvette Central offers a VIR Eliminator and hundreds of other A/C and heater parts. The VIR Eliminator converts the A/C to the more modern and simpler orifice tube system. The compressor is then cycled on and off to control refrigerant flow.

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itsworn · 6 years

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Watch As We Rescue & Revive a Nearly New 1969 Ford Ranchero GT After 29 Years of Storage

The subject of storage is a deep one, indeed. Here at the family compound you might see muscular classics out to pasture. Let’s call those cars “pasturized.” Over yonder is a weathered old barn. Its roof went away years ago, so the barn cars all have “barnacles.” Around here, premium indoor storage involves shipping containers. Sure, they’re hot ’n’ cold with the seasons, but a tight container can be fairly safely used as a portable garage. A not-so-tight container, however, can become the tomb of doom.

Long, long ago, back in 1969, Uncle Gary Bauman drove a new 1969 Ranchero GT off the showroom floor of Riverside, California’s Warren Anderson Ford. It was pretty much loaded. A 390, a four-barrel, a floor-shifted C6, and bucket seats to boot. As his company vehicle, the shiny new Ranchero propelled Uncle Gary to and from work at the old family business, Bauman’s Auto Wrecking. It was never used for parts deliveries. Nobody else ever drove it, and I’m pretty sure it never hauled anything in its bed. Now, it’s been a long time, but I’m rather proud to possess a 20/20 long-term memory. Amongst other details, the one I recall most vividly is the Ranchero’s new-car smell.

We are all familiar with the story of the one that got away. This will not be a rehashed version of that. Uncle Gary still has the low-mileage 1969 Ranchero GT. It hasn’t felt the sunshine in many, many years. In fact, it’s been stored away in one of those shipping containers. Knowing its secret whereabouts, and knowing Uncle Gary wouldn’t mind, I sort of got to thinking that you readers might enjoy a peek inside that container. Little did I know that slippin’ in for pictures would lead to a grisly discovery.

Out of sight and out of mind, the near-new/old Ranchero had languished in that old shipping container long enough that the container had settled into the ground. One door would still open, just enough to allow someone of average build like me to slip inside. Through the dank darkness it sort of looked as though both left tires had deflated, causing the left-rear bumper corner to contact the container wall. Although I couldn’t clearly see the Ranchero, I could clearly smell it. The stench of mildew had replaced the new-car smell I remembered from childhood.

Clues at this crime scene suggest that the container’s roof sprung a leak. Sadly, that leak went undetected for years. Cold winter rain came in. Hot summer sun came out—and the container’s precious contents sustained a series of summer-long steam baths. We can be certain that condition has taken a toll on Uncle Gary’s Ranchero. We won’t know the extent of the damage until we get it out. We won’t get it out until we get the container doors opened. And we won’t get the container doors opened without a lift from a friend with a heavy-duty hydraulic wrecker.

We will have to work for this, but we will get the Ranchero out into the sunlight for a better look. No doubt it will need a complete, professional detail job, but its mechanical needs might be tougher to assess. Pending Uncle Gary’s approval, I’ll personally see this rescue through—with a little help, as needed, from friends.

For the first phase of the job at hand, let’s begin with a mechanical evaluation by “Guardrail” Willie Martin, third-generation owner/operator of Riverside, California’s Ed Martin Garage. Following Martin’s inspection, shop manager/parts guru Mike Ferguson will provide us with an estimate. Then, providing it’s practical, let’s get this Ranchero Rescue mission underway.

1 Welcome one and all to container No. 2. These doors have been locked long enough that we don’t even remember which key opens them. That’s OK; these older locks ain’t too particular. In such situations, a worn-thin key is quite dependable.

2 Suddenly, this sight for sore eyes puts a hurt on our noses. Worse than any locker room, this much mildew stinks. Before we go any further, let’s do what’s necessary to get this container aired out.

3 Over the years the container settled to the point where the doors no longer open. Fortunately, my friend, Gary “Wiz-Bang” Estee, is a heavy-duty towing and recovery professional. With a big hydraulic wrecker, raising this container is a breeze.

4 As luck would have it, the two flat tires are up against the wall. This makes valve stem access inconvenient, but my flexible friend, Pelon Sanuntillanes, doesn’t seem to mind. Here toward the rear we get our first glimpse of expired tags: December 1989!

5 Compressed air in the new/old tires gives us a little clearance so we can see more of the Ranchero’s left side. Here we believe we have located the leak. Sure enough, it’s in the roof, right above the left fender.

6 An initial check under the hood reveals a bone-stock 390. Further visual inspection reveals a coating of corrosion over pretty much everything.

7 Much to my dismay, the new-car smell of my childhood no longer lingers. Let’s just hold our noses as we slide inside the moistly mildewed interior. Here behind the wheel, the odometer speaks the truth: only 12,155 miles!

8 Quite fortunately, the interior mildew had not yet crept into the center console. In the mix with other factory documents, the owner’s manual and warranty cards are present and in mint condition.

9 Through years of steamy storage the park brake was not set. Even so, the rear brake shoes have corroded to the drums. The Ranchero will not roll, so Estee has returned to winch it out with a rollback. Now we can see the only nonstock modification: circa 1969 American Torq-Thrust originals with late-1980s Goodyear Eagle ST radials.

10 Freshly offloaded from the bed of Estee’s rollback, Uncle Gary’s Ranchero assumes a position on a lift at Ed Martin Garage. After 29 years of improper storage, we are expecting the fuel system, cooling system, and brakes to require attention.

11 During Martin’s evaluation we see things we don’t often see, still in place on a 49-year-old Ford. For example, this air filter element is Motorcraft original equipment. Just below, an original Motorcraft four-barrel carburetor is all lacquered up. It’s so bad, its butterflies won’t budge.

12 In the usual places, Martin begins looking for clues. Here the fuel cap and radiator cap each have stories to tell. That crusty crud confirms our suspicions—there’s trouble in the tanks.

13 The condition of this heater-control valve suggests that the Ranchero was parked without Prestone. The heater core could be all plugged up to match. If so, there will be much disassembly required for access.

14 The poor old Ranchero is stiff. Wheels won’t turn, butterflies won’t budge, and things we’ve seen are not encouraging. At this point, before looking further, Martin goes for his ratchet. The engine still turns! After a full revolution, we are optimistic again.

15 Even under the distributor cap, steam has made a mess. Surprisingly, the vacuum advance has passed a bench test. Here a lap around the solvent tank may reveal more ugliness.

16 See the heavy pitting on the distributor cam? New points won’t last long. Those pits will grind a new rubbing block away quickly. For that, Martin recommends a cleverly concealable PerTronix box.

17 According to a paper Pennzoil sticker in the left doorjamb, Uncle Gary’s Ranchero was last serviced on February 7, 1989, right here at Ed Martin Garage. Yes, it’s been here before. Last time, quite coincidentally, was after long-term storage as well.

18 With a new filter in place and fresh oil added, it’s prime time. With a pneumatic drill, Martin spins the oil pump at a fairly high speed as yours truly monitors instrumentation inside. We have pressure!

19 Just wanting to hear the engine run, we have filled the float bowl through the vent with fresh gasoline. At this stage the carburetor’s butterflies are still solidly stuck, but the engine has fired and idled quietly. What we see here on the floor is fresh from the tailpipe.

20 Pleased with what he’s heard, Martin begins to overhaul the carburetor. A couple screws have broken, and the accelerator pump refuses to let go. Notice the dark goo in the bottom of the bowl. A dunk in the shop’s ultrasonic cleaner, followed by pressure washing, will remedy that.

21 Here on a different bench we have a two-piece fuel filler neck. The rubber joint has been discarded. It will be replaced. Although these two parts are clearly cruddy, a lap around the bead-blasting cabinet will clean ’em up like new.

22 The fuel tank’s condition, however, is the worst we’ve ever seen at Ed Martin Garage. Pretty obviously, the poor Ranchero was parked with a full tank of high-test. The questionable tank will be sent to a nearby radiator shop. With a little luck it might actually survive.

23 Perhaps if it weren’t so stinky, this sending unit might make a nice souvenir. We just don’t see them like this every day.

24 Earlier, from the appearance of the heater control valve, we had determined that the Ranchero was parked without Prestone. Let this thermostat housing support the initial observation.

25 Toward the end of a very long haul, this low-mileage 390 is running really good, but as Murphy’s Law would have it, something is wrong. The heater core is leaking warm green coolant. It needs to come out. Access will not be easy, so this is a setback.

26 Following a good deal of disassembly, we have accessed the problem. The heater core on the left is the original. The one on the right is N.O.S. Even though it’s new, testing revealed leaks, so it has been to the radiator shop for repairs.

27 After reassembly, the coolant leak is history. Now perhaps we should think about settling up. While these four pages of receipts add up to something, the money is well spent on a vehicle worth saving. Once we have obtained insurance and current registration, it will be time for a test drive.

About That Test Drive Have you ever driven a brand-new, 390-powered 1969 Ranchero GT? Neither had I until just lately. For me, there’s a gooey, squishy, rather emotional feelin’ that goes with the experience. Hey, it’s my favorite uncle’s ride, and after 29 years in storage, I am the first to drive it. Thanks to Ed Martin Garage, it’s running great and stopping straight. Even though it feels quite powerful, I’m driving like a granny because two of the late-1980s Goodyear Eagle ST radials sat flat so long that the thumping won’t subside. Before rolling down the highway I’ll gingerly putt down the street to see my tire guy, Dave, at Kuma Tire ’n’ Wheel.

Our final stop will be the detail shop. We have made an appointment with Ricky Pope of Soft Touch Auto Detailing. In Part 2 we will tend to cosmetics. Again with a little help from friends, and still more help from friends at Mothers, we’ll have Uncle Gary’s near-new/old Ranchero back in showroom shape—for auction, or for keeps.

The post Watch As We Rescue & Revive a Nearly New 1969 Ford Ranchero GT After 29 Years of Storage appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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itsworn · 7 years

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How to determine wheel size and backspace with the CCTek Wheel Tek tool

One of the most important and difficult visual aspects of building a car is getting the wheel and tire combination “just right.” The ultimate goal is to get the most rubber under the fenders that you can without the tires and fenders hitting each other. The stance is crucial as well, as those wheels and tires must be sized just right and the suspension oriented so that the whole combination is spot-on cool.

In the past, before multi-piece custom wheels came on the market, you were stuck with what the manufacturers had on the shelf, and the choices were slim. But today, most wheel manufacturers can build you a wheel in whatever diameter, width, and backspacing you want (within reason), so the sky’s the limit. The difficult part now is determining how big you can (and should) go. Determining the proper size wheel and backspacing requires a lot of measuring and some educated guessing, but we’ve just come across a tool that makes it easier and much more accurate.

The Wheel Tek from CCTek is a you-assemble-it tool that actually holds a tire you think might fit, and lets you bolt it to the car’s hub and slide it in and out to see exactly what wheel backspacing you’ll need to run that tire—or if you can go bigger on the tire or should go smaller, and even articulate/cycle the suspension and steering to verify clearances as well. The Wheel Tek tool allows you to simulate a wide range of wheels, allowing you to test-fit many different tire sizes and combinations right on the vehicle. It simulates wheels from 15- to 20-inch diameters and widths up to 15 inches. It’s made of 6061-T6 aluminum and has mounting plates to cover 4-, 5-, and 6-bolt wheel patterns.

With that introduction, here’s how it works:

1. This is the Wheel Tek tool prior to assembly. Not shown is a second hub plate (the big triangular piece) that covers 4- and 6-bolt applications. These pieces are all assembled together for the correct size wheel you think will fit, and you’ll also need a tire that’s close to what you think will fit the car to mount to it.

2. The hub plate has these rows of holes to attach the arm angles to, and can simulate wheels from 15 to 20 inches in diameter. There are adapters that extend the diameter range up to 26 inches. We have our tool set for an 18-inch wheel, as shown.

3. The long “channel” plates are the rim sliders, and they bolt to the arm angles/hub plate like so (all the mounting hardware is included with the tool).

4. These bead clamps bolt to the slider plates to secure the tool to the tire bead.

5. We set the tool up to simulate an 8-inch-wide wheel, as shown here.

6. Fully assembled but without a tire mounted. NOTE: In this photo, the top slider is installed 90 degrees off. D’oh!

7. We used one of the Maxxis P245/40R18 tires from our Week to Wicked ’66 Mustang to check the fit, knowing that it already fits pretty well. The tricky part of mounting the tire to the Wheel Tek tool is that you’ll probably have to install the last set of bead clamps to the sliders after the tire is slid over the tool, since in the case of this particular tire construction we couldn’t stretch it enough to fit over the clamps.

8. Bolt the assembly (with tire mounted of course) onto the car’s hub and secure with the lug nuts. (When using brakes that have removable rotor hats, make sure the hats are in place when mounting the tool, or you must compensate for the thickness when measuring backspacing.) Now you can compress the suspension (it’s easier if you remove the springs so it doesn’t lift the car) to cycle it up and down and turn the wheel from lock to lock, studying how the “checking tire” fits.

9. The sliders are loosened by this bolt (on each one of the three sliders) so you can slide the tire in and out to determine where it fits best. Once you have the perfect fit, tighten the bolts down and remove the tool, then measure the backspace.

10. The face of the hub plate that was bolted against the hub is the same face as the wheel mounting pad, so lay a straightedge across the inner end of one rim slider and measure, and that’s your correct backspacing.

11. The Wheel Tek tool is on the expensive side, so we also tried out this WheelRite tool from Percy’s High Performance that we got from Summit Racing. Made of plastic, it’s more affordable and we’ve seen high-end car builders use one, so it works. But getting the tire profile right with the piece of wire that simulates it is tricky.

Sources

CCTek, LLC

candctek.com

Summit Racing

(800) 230-3030

SummitRacing.com

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itsworn · 7 years

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Top Shelf 1968 Pro Touring Camaro

Casey Clements is a mechanical engineer and a project manager for a global chemical company. His occupation requires bust-head planning and eyeball-flattening attention to detail—in other words, it’s great groundwork for surviving a custom car build.

Casey’s job takes him to backdrops in Saudi Arabia and China, often for extended stays, designing and building chemical/plastics facilities. Since he wasn’t home for months at a time, he was unable to minister to the car personally. But here’s the thing about Casey. He’s not so much thrilled by the idea of showing his car as he is by being able to put it to good use.

Though he built it to drive, his motives were also altruistic; he built it to expose his 11- and 9-year-old daughters to the idea of getting their hands dirty … and working on cars. His wife, Anna, is also a mechanical engineer and an unabashed gearhead “who always supported the build and motivated me to get it finished.” So at the dinner table, conversation could easily segue from home improvement to the improvement of the Camaro. Nice work, Casey, you’re obviously a blessed man. Don’t ever let that get away.

So how did this car get built? To whom did Casey put all his trust? Tim Palazzolo and the crew at GAP Racing in Houston attacked it like a free lunch. “During one of my overseas assignments, I decided to find someone that could help me finish off the roller so I could drive it and enjoy it with my family. I didn’t want the Camaro to become one of those stories you read about a project that never gets finished. My love of all things mechanical is what helped me decide to become a mechanical engineer. The first-generation Camaro bug bit me about 10 years ago.

“I spoke with several shops out of state but never felt comfortable sending the car thousands of miles away to be worked on. When I first spoke to Tim, two things became very clear: Tim would treat the car as if it was his own and he understood my vision of Pro Touring. GAP is about an hour from my driveway, which gave me the opportunity to check out how things were developing when I wasn’t abroad.”

He found the car on a forum and bought it sight unseen from a fellow board member. He did see it in pictures. It was in New York. “The seller was reputable and had built a Ridler winner so I felt comfortable with it,” he said. “A lot of the bodywork and sheetmetal replacement was done by the previous owners. It was a solid Camaro and much better than the many I looked at locally.”

Casey wanted frisky, trouble-free motoring so he decided against going the rampage route, got him an LS2 and had it tweaked a little. As most feral hot rodders did back in the day, GAP changed out the camshaft and streamlined the exhaust tract. To feed it, the boys picked a Top Street Performance isolated runner intake manifold and a 102mm throttle body to go with it.

To soak up the grunt, GAP put a Monster Transmission 4L60E behind it. To soak up the road, they used JRi coilovers and a RideTech four-link. Rather than the usual 14-inch plates at each corner, the Camaro does nicely with 13-inch Baer rotors and four-piston calipers followed by 12-inch rotors and single-piston calipers. Rushforth hoops add contrast to the sparkling black exterior and are covered in compliant Pirelli P Zero 245/40 and 315/30 rubber.

So while the Camaro has all this mechanical finery, it’s finery you can hear but cannot see. Casey chose to cloak it with the most difficult color in the world to cover the shaved driprails, the naked front end, and other subtle areas of change with the absence of color. To bring it off, the body panels had to be straight and flawless. The true test is looking at the side of a black car when it’s illuminated by “sweet light” (those scant minutes just after the sun goes down). There’s nothing abrupt; it flows free of jags. The absence of a front bumper becomes a focal point and accentuates its appearance as well as its purpose. Accessories include JW Speaker LED headlights, anodized door handles and side mirrors, and Marquez Design digital taillights.

But Casey doesn’t ride along out there on the fenders like a cowboy. He’s ensconced in his man-pit, reveling in cool air, butt snugged in the Corbeau bucket, held tight by Sparco four-point belts. GAP installed the American Autowire harness, Dynamat sound killer, MCI console, and the Essex cut pile rugs. Casey was a crack stereo installer back in the day so he wouldn’t do with anything less than the Pioneer/JL Audio ensemble. GAP, not Casey, did the install.

We asked: What would you have done differently? He answered: “My only regret is not having it done sooner so I could be out there driving it. If it tells you anything, I have already started my next project. I bought a 1968 short-wheelbase C10, and within a month of owning it, took it completely apart to install new front and rear suspension and swap in an LS engine.”

Casey the Blessed Man is happy. CHP

Tech Check

Owner: Casey Clements, League City, Texas

Vehicle: 1968 Camaro

Engine

Type: LS2

Displacement: 364 ci

Compression Ratio: 10.9:1

Bore: 4.000 inches

Stroke: 3.622 inches

Cylinder Heads: OE cathedral port, 2.00/1.55 valves

Rotating Assembly: OE nodular iron crankshaft, hypereutectic aluminum pistons, powdered metal connecting rods

Valvetrain: OE 1.7:1 rocker arms, Brian Tooley springs, OE retainers, Texas Speed & Performance 7.400-inch chrome-moly pushrods

Camshaft: Texas Speed (0.600/0.600-inch lift; 224/228-degree duration at 0.050) installed by GAP Racing (Houston, TX)

Ignition: OE coil packs, Taylor primary wires

Induction: Top Street Performance aluminum isolated runner manifold, 102mm throttle body, Custom Built Motors 92-to-102mm throttle body adapter, GAP Racing fabricated air intake tube and MAF closeout panel, Rick’s stainless tank w/ Walbro 255-lph pump

Exhaust: Dynatech headers, 1 3/4-inch primaries, Dynatech mufflers, GAP Racing 3-inch stainless system

Ancillaries: PRC electric fan and aluminum radiator, Wegner Motorsports water pump and accessory drive

Output (at crank): 450 hp at 6,000 rpm, 450 lb-ft at 4,400 rpm

Machine Work: Chevrolet Performance

Built By: Chevrolet Performance

Drivetrain

Transmission: Monster Transmission 4L60E, Monster 2,800-stall torque converter

Rear Axle: Moser 12-bolt, 31-spline axleshafts, Truetrac differential, 3.73:1 gears, Precision Shaft Technologies aluminum driveshaft

Chassis

Front Suspension: Stock subframe and spindles, JRi coilovers, Detroit Speed antisway bar

Rear Suspension: RideTech four-link, JRi coilovers

Brakes: Baer 13-inch rotors, four-piston calipers, front; Baer 12-inch rotors, one-piston calipers rear; Baer master cylinder and proportioning valve, Detroit Speed booster

Wheels & Tires

Wheels: Rushforth Night Train 18×8 front, 18×11 rear

Tires: Pirelli P Zero 245/40 front, 315/30 rear

Interior

Upholstery: West Side Upholstery (Houston, TX), Marquez Designs door/all other panels

Material: Vinyl

Seats: Corbeau Sport, Sparco harnesses

Steering: Detroit Speed box, ididit column, Billet Specialties 14-inch Throttle wheel

Shifter: 2010 Camaro

Dash: Stock w/ dashpad

Instrumentation: Dakota Digital VHX

Audio: Pioneer Double DIN head unit, JL Audio amps, JL 6.50-inch front speakers, JL 6×9 rear speakers, installed by GAP Racing

HVAC: Vintage Air Streamline 3

Exterior

Bodywork: Shaved driprails, front bumper delete, custom lower valance w/ driving lights, welded lower fender seam, cowl vents smoothed

Paint: PPG Black

Hood: Goodmark steel cowl

Grille: Zoops billet

Bumpers: Stock, narrowed, and smoothed by GAP Racing

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robertkstone · 7 years

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2016 Dodge Charger SRT Hellcat Long-Term Verdict: One Year With a 707-HP Charger

Hellcat verdict? Aside from more, please? I spent 12 months with the most ridiculous sedan on earth: 707 horsepower divided by 365 is nearly 2 horsepower per day. Is that the most ridiculous sentence I’ve ever written?

But, let’s get serious: Did I learn anything after 26,012 miles seated in the deeply cushioned red barcaloungers that Dodge tries to pass off as bucket seats while averaging an almost respectable 14.9 mpg? I suppose you’d have to learn something—one entire elapsed year and all—but I have a hunch I learned the wrong lessons.

Normally with a long-term verdict you’re supposed to ascertain whether something such as the $1,500 black-painted roof was a worthwhile optional expenditure. The problem is I didn’t really remember that this car even had a blacked-out roof until I checked the window sticker. Because unlike regular cars, you don’t think about things like that when you’re living with a Hellcat.

I did appreciate the $995 Brass Monkey wheels, but mostly because Licensed to Ill by the Beastie Boys was the third album I ever bought—the first two being In 3-D by Weird Al Yankovic and Raising Hell by Run DMC. I’m Gen X, yo. Even still, I’m not so sure I’d opt for the $1,995 19-speaker Harman Kardon sound system. Oh, who am I kidding—of course I would! Of note is the fact that although I might have chewed through five sets of tires (one short of my initial goal of six sets in a year), nothing on the car broke. No matter how viciously we treated the Hellcat with Motor Trend’s version of accelerated wear and tear, only routine maintenance—like changing out 8 quarts of synthetic oil every 6,000 miles—was all the big red gal required.

One takeaway from living with a Charger Hellcat is if you’re able to control your right foot, the thing drives like a normal car. You might be thinking, “Hey man, anything’s a normal car if you don’t drive it like you stole it.” That’s not true of many performance machines. Take the Alfa Romeo 4C. It’s never a normal car, ever! The same is true for a Viper, a Nissan GT-R, or a Lamborghini Aventador. But the Hellcat version of the Charger can do a close approximation of a $29,090 SE model. It’s roomy, it’s surprisingly comfortable, the Uconnect infotainment system works pretty much OK, and the back seats are good for three adults, fantastic for two. But if any of the above figures into your decision to go out and purchase a Charger Hellcat—a $73,725 purchase that I highly recommend—you’re doing it wrong.

You buy the four-door Hellcat with the shrieking supercharger so you can see the look on the guy’s face at the tire shop as he once again chisels molten rubber off your exhaust pipes. You get yourself a 707-hp Charger so that when you’re virtually parked in traffic you can relieve tension by spinning the back wheels a bit. Not a big smoky burnout, but just enough to make everyone around you nervous. It helps both relieve the tension and break up the monotony. You buy yourself a Charger Hellcat because it’s as close to a concealed carry permit as there is in the automotive world. Just like a .357 Magnum under your coat, you always know the immense power is there, mere inches away.

There’s a tension to living with this car. Perhaps that’s what 12 months of Hellcat stewardship most taught me. It’s a constant tussle between you behaving like a upright citizen and four-wheeled, tail-out, tire-shredding anarchy. Do I have the strength to not pointlessly burn up a tank of gas today? It’s a moral struggle, a constant one.

There’s going to be a time—and it’s coming sooner than many of you think—that you won’t be able to waltz down to your local neighborhood Dodge dealer and drive away in a snarling, antisocial beast with a Satanized kitty cat head on the fender. Not only will cars be electric, but you’ll also be too busy InstaSnapTweeting to even want to drive them, assuming they’ll still let us. No one will speed, and cars most certainly will not burn out. I’m not saying the impending future is better or worse. I’m just saying it’s racing toward us. Quickly. The Hellcat, this Hellcat, any Hellcat, is a finger in the eye of that particular inevitability. Take a guess as to which finger.

More on our long-term Dodge Charger SRT Hellcat here:

Arrival

Update 1: Hungry, Hungry Hellcat

Update 2: How Our Hellcat Responds at the Track with New Tires

Update 3: Drag-Racing Fun at Best Driver’s Car

Update 4: The Hellcat Ruins Others

Update 5: Who Has The Hellcat?

Update 6: Kill All Tires Edition

Our Car SERVICE LIFE 13 mo / 26,012 mi BASE PRICE $68,640 OPTIONS Preferred pkg 23T ($1,995: Harman Kardon audio, 19 speakers, floor mats), black-painted roof ($1,500), Brass Monkey forged wheels ($995), P Zero summer tires ($595) PRICE AS TESTED $73,725 AVG ECON/CO2 14.9 mpg / 1.30 lb/mi PROBLEM AREAS None MAINTENANCE COST $158 (2-oil change, inspection) NORMAL-WEAR COST $2,114 (2 sets Pirelli P Zero tires, mount and balance) 3-YEAR RESIDUAL VALUE*

$54,300

RECALLS None

*IntelliChoice data; assumes 42,000 miles at the end of 3-years

2016 Dodge Charger SRT Hellcat POWERTRAIN/CHASSIS DRIVETRAIN LAYOUT Front-engine, RWD ENGINE TYPE Supercharged 90-deg V-8, iron block/alum heads VALVETRAIN OHV, 2 valves/cyl DISPLACEMENT 376.3 cu in/6,166 cc COMPRESSION RATIO 9.5:1 POWER (SAE NET) 707 hp @ 6,000 rpm TORQUE (SAE NET) 650 lb-ft @ 4,800 rpm REDLINE 6,250 rpm WEIGHT TO POWER 6.4 lb/hp TRANSMISSION 8-speed automatic AXLE/FINAL-DRIVE RATIO 2.62:1/1.76:1 SUSPENSION, FRONT; REAR Control arms, coil springs, adj shocks, anti-roll bar; multilink, coil springs, adj shocks, anti-roll bar STEERING RATIO 14.4:1 TURNS LOCK-TO-LOCK 2.5 BRAKES, F; R 15.4-in vented, grooved 2-pc disc; 13.8-in vented, grooved disc, ABS WHEELS, F;R 9.5 x 20 in forged aluminum TIRES, F;R 275/40ZR20 106Y Pirelli P Zero DIMENSIONS WHEELBASE 120.4 in TRACK, F/R 64.0/63.7 in LENGTH x WIDTH x HEIGHT 200.8 x 75.0 x 58.3 in TURNING CIRCLE 38.5 ft CURB WEIGHT 4,530 lb WEIGHT DIST, F/R 57/43 % SEATING CAPACITY 5 HEADROOM, F/R 38.6/36.6 in LEGROOM, F/R 41.8/40.1 in SHOULDER ROOM, F/R 59.5/57.9 in CARGO VOLUME 16.5 cu ft TEST DATA ACCELERATION TO MPH 0-30 1.9 0-40 2.6 0-50 3.3 0-60 4.2 0-70 5.2 0-80 6.1 0-90 7.1 0-100 8.4 PASSING, 45-65 MPH 1.7 QUARTER MILE 12.1 sec @ 123.4 mph BRAKING, 60-0 MPH 103 ft LATERAL ACCELERATION 0.93 g (avg) MT FIGURE EIGHT 24.4 sec @ 0.82 g (avg) TOP-GEAR REVS @ 60 MPH 1,600 rpm CONSUMER INFO BASE PRICE $68,640 PRICE AS TESTED $73,725 STABILITY/TRACTION CONTROL Yes/Yes AIRBAGS 7: Dual front, front side, f/r curtain, driver knee BASIC WARRANTY 3 yrs/36,000 miles POWERTRAIN WARRANTY 5 yrs/60,000 miles ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE 5 yrs/100,000 miles FUEL CAPACITY 18.5 gal EPA CITY/HWY/COMB ECON 13/22/16 mpg ENERGY CONS, CITY/HWY 259/153 kW-hrs/100 miles CO2 EMISSIONS, COMB 1.22 lb/mile REAL MPG, CITY/HWY/COMB 17.0/24.6/19.8 mpg RECOMMENDED FUEL Unleaded premium

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itsworn · 7 years

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How Water can Calm the Detonation Blues

War is hell kids, but it’s undeniable that many world-changing technological advances were derived from armed conflict. War-related research brought us the moon landing, jet powered airliners, hemispherical combustion chambers, super glue, synthetic oil, and the cell phones in our pockets.

Way back in WWII, the German Focke-Wulf FW 190 fighter plane needed a horsepower boost to give it an edge during aerial combat against U.S. Air Force P51 Mustangs. The FW190’s 1,677 horsepower, 14-cylinder BMW radial engine was already supercharged so adding a huffer was off the menu. Instead, the so-called MW 50 system was devised. As the name implies, a 50/50 spray of methanol and water was administered for short bursts and output jumped to 1,973. Though the MW 50 units were only used experimentally, the idea took root and has been exploited by horsepower seekers looking for minimal hardware investment ever since.

So what exactly does methanol – water injection do? The core objective is to prevent abnormal combustion. Usually identified with words like detonation, ping, and knock, the audible sounds are caused by a fuel/air mixture that’s started to burn too soon. The resulting “death rattle” is just that. The uneven cylinder pressure hammers the chambers, pistons, rings, ring lands, pins, bearings, and block without mercy. In extreme cases, the vibration can be so extreme as to cause flex plate and header flange bolts to loosen.

Beyond its threat to mechanical systems, detonation also kills power. The uneven power pulses, which are clearly visible on a printed dyno curve, disturb intact tract function, ignition system efficiency, and vehicle acceleration. While detonation is a problem with naturally aspirated engines, when you add an exhaust-driven turbo or belt driven supercharger and forcibly cram the air molecules together, even more detonation-making heat is the result. Something must be done.

That something is water-methanol liquid injection, which aims to cool the intake charge before it enters the combustion chambers. Back in the ‘70s when the federal mandate for reduced octane, unleaded fuel first hit, and entire crop of aftermarket water injection kits emerged to help drivers of pre-1971 cars run on the lower-octane gasoline. These cars typically had compression ratios north of the critical 10:1 threshold and rattle-prone iron cylinder heads.

Grab a late seventies copy of Car Craft and you’ll see advertisements for water injection kits from outfits like Spearco and Roto-Master. These early kits generally introduced straight atomized water into the fuel/air charge. Since water doesn’t burn and expand during combustion, the water molecules took up a certain amount of space, so less fuel was present and power wasn’t necessarily enhanced. Rather, these systems simply helped the engine “be all it could be”, to borrow a recruiting phrase from the mighty U.S. Army. However, straight water begins to freeze at 32-deg. F, so makers of those water injection kits told users to add various amounts of windshield washer fluid (which contains alcohol to prevent freezing) to ensure their systems would function in the winter time. As victims of cracked engine blocks can attest, confined water takes up seven percent more volume when it freezes into ice. So following the lead of the Focke-Wulf engineers in 1942, many aftermarket water injection system makers incorporated methanol into the equation. Well whaddaya know, alky is combustible and can add power while the water component curbs detonation; it’s a win – win.

Its’ been over four decades since those first water-methanol injection kits hit the aftermarket, and since the best pump gasoline available is still a mere 91 to 93 octane, detonation remains a problem for naturally aspirated engines with more than 9.9:1 compression. With today’s massive surge toward add-on turbo and supercharger kits, the need for water-methanol injection systems has never been greater.

Lets’ watch as the Buzzell brothers of NextGen Performance install and test a Snow Performance Boost Cooler on a Vortec blown 1965 Mustang 2+2. The entire process took just a few hours but added nearly 41 horsepower and 29 lb/ft of torque while calming all signs of detonation.

NextGen’s Josh Buzzell says the Snow Performance Boost Cooler is just as effective as an intercooler – but without the plumbing hassles. What’s more, while forward vehicle movement is needed to push air through the aluminum core, water-meth’s full benefits are available while standing still, like on the starting line or chassis dyno. The Stage 2 kit used here will support 250 to 550 horsepower applications with boost levels no higher than 20 psi, which is still a bunch.

Car owner Jamie Fournier built this raw but solid ’65 2+2 to be a fun, worry-free daily driver. A disc brake conversion system from Mustang Steve employs 2003 Mustang Cobra front discs and Explorer rear discs mated to the 9 incher’s axle tubes. The 2001 Explorer-sourced 302 has the good GT40P heads, a Ford Racing E-303 hydraulic roller cam, Trick Flow valve springs, stock intake manifold and Holley HP EFI with LS1 style coil-on-plug ignition. The Vortec SC1 delivers 6 psi boost, routed through a T5 stick shift.

The Stage 2 Boost Cooler kit (PN 20010) includes everything needed for installation, including a 300 psi electric pump, 3-quart fluid reservoir, two spray nozzles, thread sealant, check valve, ¼-inch nylon feed tubing with easy to use compression couplers, mounting hardware, and complete instructions. Not shown here – but included – is the critical control box.

The VC20 control box connects to a boost source via a supplied rubber hose. It has an internal MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. The twin rotary dials regulate electrical current flow to the pump to ramp up fluid delivery rate and duration. The Start dial is set to 1/3 to ½ of the total boost. Typical start points are between 3 and 10 psi. The Full dial is set to the maximum boost level. This Vortec SC1 blown Mustang was set at 3 and 6. There are no micro switches or hokey “go baby go” buttons to press. It all happens automatically.

To position the reservoir and pump under hood, Eric Buzzell makes paper drill guide templates of each component’s footprint to locate fastener holes. For enhanced accuracy in transferring hole locations by pen, the inner ink cartridge is removed before marking.

To help isolate vibrations from the electric pump drive motor, Snow Performance uses rubber bushings on the feet of the mount. The pump must be mounted at or below the lowest part of the fluid reservoir to assure automatic and instant priming. Take time and seek out the optimal location for each component under your hood.

The electric pump finds a nice home ahead of the driver-side spring tower. Eric uses a Unibit to cut four 9/32-inch holes. The reservoir fits well behind the radiator wall on the passenger-side of the engine bay. The 90-degree pneumatic drill motor is great for tight spaces like this.

Though the kit includes self-tapping screws to mount the pump, the guys switched to Marson’s Ribbed Klik-Nuts rivet nuts for a more finished result and easier serviceability. The Marson system employs a rivet gun-like tool that permanently expands the female rivet nuts in place. Then, 10-32 machine screws hold the pump in position. The fluid reservoir is secured via the same system.

The feed pump and controller nestle between the 302 and driver-side fender wall with the rotary switches facing up for easy access.

The 3-quart reservoir mounts next to the radiator on the passenger side and comes with a low-level LED warning lamp. Though Snow Performance sells its proprietary Boost Juice with a 51/49-percent methanol/water mix for maximum benefits, ordinary blue windshield washer fluid is an acceptable substitute. Snow says the blue stuff is usually 30 to 40 percent alky but spiking it with Gold Eagle brand “Heet” gas line antifreeze (36 ounces per gallon) brings it closer to 50/50.

The spray nozzle holder must be mounted six inches ahead of the throttle body. Before drilling an 11/32 hole and cutting 1/8-27 (National) pipe threads to secure the nozzle holder, remove the air tube to prevent debris from entering the manifold. In rare instances, if the nozzle is located below the lowest point of the fluid reservoir, unwanted siphoning can occur. For this, Snow offers a flow control solenoid (PN 40060).

Several spray nozzle tips are available with flow ratings of 60, 100, 175, 225, 375 and 625 milliliters per minute. For this 1hp-per-cu.in. 302, we used the 175 ml/min unit. Only active when under boost (as determined by the Start and Full dial settings), a typical 250 to 550 horsepower engine will drain the 96 ounce jug with each 15 gallon tank of gas.

With everything in place, the Snow Performance Boost Cooler pretty much hides in plain sight.

Dave Brady at ESP in Sterling, MA (in car) operates one of the few all-wheel-drive dynos in Massachusetts, which attracts tuning business from Jeep Wrangler SRT8, Subaru WRX, and high-end Porsche owners. Without the Boost Cooler activated, our 2+2’s rear wheels delivered a respectable 322.7 horsepower at 5,852 rpm and 323.5 lb/ft at 4,656 rpm. That’s with 92 octane unleaded premium in the tank. NextGen’s Eric Buzzell looks on.

With the Boost Cooler activated, the increased octane value and cooler, denser intake charge took the 302 from 322.7 hp and 323.5 lb/ft to 363.4 hp and 352 lb/ft of torque. That’s an extra 40.7 horsepower and 28.5 lb/ft for under five hundred bucks. Better yet, the system stands ready to support further increases in output as mechanical upgrades are made to other areas of the engine and / or more aggressive boost and ignition timing thresholds are explored.

Snow’s Boost Juice retails for under ten bucks a gallon, and at 51 percent alcohol is more potent than washer fluid.

Turbo Rocket Fluid: Don’t Leave Home Without It

Way back in 1962 and ’63, the compact Oldsmobile F85 Jetfire added an AiResearch exhaust-driven turbocharger to its 215 cube, aluminum block V8. The turbo was mounted to pull air through a sidedraft 1-barrel carburetor. With Chevrolet’s same-year Corvair Monza turbo, these were America’s first mass-produced, post-war turbo cars.

To solve the persistent turbo lag issue, Olds engineers equipped the little 215 with a sky high 10.25:1 compression ratio. It increased low speed cylinder pressure until the turbo’s 5-psi boost came on strong at 2,200 rpm.

To tame low-rpm / high-load detonation tendencies, Olds resorted to – you guessed it – water-methanol injection. A 50/50 mix of distilled water and methanol, Olds dealers sold the fluid in specially marked metal cans and rigged a sensor to bypass the turbo if the underhood reservoir was empty.

Though a brave effort, the system was hampered by overly conservative tuning to protect against careless users. Under boost, the Jetfire’s Turbo-Rocket 215 delivered 215 horsepower at 4600 rpm and a stout 300 lb/ft at 3200 rpm. For comparison, Corvair’s 164-inch flat six turbo made 150 hp and 210 lb/ft.

Though a 3-speed manual was standard in the 1962 Jetfire (a four-speed became optional in ’63), most got a sloppy three-speed Hydramatic and mild 3.36:1 gears out back. The September 1962 issue of Motor Trend magazine tested an automatic turbo car and recorded 0-60 in 10.2 seconds, only 2.5 seconds quicker than the non-turbo 215 V8 with its single 2 barrel and 155 horsepower rating. The turbo’ed Jetfire cranked the quarter mile in a pretty mild 18.7 seconds and 80 mph.

Sold only in the Jetfire two-door hardtop (a specific model with style code 3147), the complex turbo V8 forced the sticker price over $3,700, only $300 less than a stripped Corvette. Production reached 3,765 in 1962 and 5,842 in 1963 before the idea was dropped. But as a pioneering mini muscle car, the Jetfire deserves recognition.

Part of GM’s ground breaking senior compact lineup which included the Buick Special and Pontiac Tempest, the Jetfire shares its basic platform with the rear-engine Chevy Corvair. Creative cut-and-paste chassis, suspension and driveline design enabled these front engine spin-offs.

Turbocharging brought the all-aluminum 215 V8 to one horse per cubic inch. Olds and Buick shared the 215 short block but with different heads. Only Oldsmobile’s Jetfire 215 got the turbo.

This factory schematic depicts the complex Turbo Rocket Fluid delivery system. GM was innovating madly with this family of cars. Beyond the Corvair’s exotic air cooled flat six, other wildness included Pontiac’s half-a-V8 Trophy “slant four” and Buick’s odd-fire V6. In 1978 Buick added a turbo to the revived V6 and made more history.

Every Jetfire came with this handy turbo boost indicator. The “fluid injection” marking reminded owners to keep the reservoir filled with Turbo Rocket Fluid.

The post How Water can Calm the Detonation Blues appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

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