#rubber fender body

[the-takosader]

Anyway, on the list of Things In The Making...

What, you thought one electric would be good enough for me?

Yep, I'm doing another one. This one won't be fretless, because of two reasons:

The Fretless (hereafter referred to as Sunset Fade) was an experiment to see what I could actually do with a kit.

A 12 string fretless, though cool, would be even more hell to play than the Sunset Fade already is.

Yep! It's a 12 string! As some guitarists might say, I've caught the 12 string bug. But, y'see, I think I've had it for a good long while now.

The first time I actually encountered a 12 string in a song was, if I can correctly recall, Wish You Were Here. I don't actually properly remember my reaction to it, but I know what my reaction is to it now: play along to the rhythm on my acoustic 6.

The more recent and powerful one, however, is much, much later than that. I never really did a Beatles Back-Catalogue dive until when I made a full Studio Discography playlist on Spotify, and encountered a little gem called If I Needed Someone.

For those completely unaware of the history of this song, it was written in the latter half of 1965 by one George Harrison. I don't think I need to explain the ins and outs of what the song's about, but the long and short of it is that he's telling the women of the world that, although he's gonna be married, he might need someone if the thing goes sour.

But again, this is rambling. My reaction wasn't to the lyrics, but the guitar. The jangle and chime specifically. Two toaster single coils in a bevelled-top Rickenbacker 360/12, ringing out like Rhymney. Oh, and it's got a capo on the 7th. Chime a-plenty on this one.

So yeah, this one's a doozy of a build. A 12 string electric with 2 single coils... which just now occurred to me that it sounds a lot like a Fender Telecaster XII. Oh yeah, Fender made a Tele XII. It was a limited edition thing from 1995-99, but it still counts.

So my build is going to be a Tele XII, mainly because I didn't fancy a Strat again, but it's going to be special for 2 reasons (that's the second time it's been two reasons specifically):

It's going to be a semi-hollow 12 string, because you can never have too much jangle on a 12 string like this.

It's going to be strung Rickenbacker-style.

What's Rickenbacker-style stringing? That requires an explanation of 12 strings in general.

The above is a tuning guide for a normal 12 string guitar. Yes, it actually is 12 strings. Anyway, note how it's the higher octave string first, then the standard string after, leading to a kind of sawtooth as you strum down.

Rickenbacker 12 strings reverse that order, placing the normal string first, then the octave string, and repeating that process until the upper four strings, which don't change due to being unison pairs.

In effect, this is going to result in a Ric 12 string for a fraction of the cost. For reference, Ric 360/12s? A nice, clean £3,400. Meanwhile this project has only costed a total of £167, though it remains to see if it'll cost anymore in the future or not.

I'll try to remember to update you all on this mad shit, but if I don't, I've proably gotten too invested in the thing.

[kitschun]

Need 4 Speed: Haknyeon (Teaser)

Summary: Of mangoes and mountain charms, and wrenches and tangerines. Haknyeon spends another night down the mountain roads waiting for your safe return. An unlikely friendship built between a tōge drifter and a mechanic that likes to race the streets. This is a teaser for the Haknyeon installation of my Need 4 Speed series for The Boyz! See the masterlist here or follow to be updated.

Author’s Note: This can be read as a standalone blurb, or as a precursor to my upcoming fic Driving, My Love! Happy Valentine’s Day to everyone!

Tags: Mechanic!Haknyeon x Drifter!Reader, BFF!Haknyeon

Warnings: May contain inaccurate depictions of cars (lol), mention of car accidents

Mountain Pass 1 — 1:10 AM Monday

The mountains were barren of any signs of civilization save for the occasional lamppost that illuminated down its winding roads. Up here, the only company the mountain found itself with were the whispers of a gentle breeze and the offload of dying leaves shed by the evergreen trees. 

In a far distance, the sound of a brazen car disturbed the serenity of the atmosphere. Its modular body slid through a curved road, leaving a nasty skid mark and a ghastly amount of smoke that could haunt a climate change activist in his wake. 

The fragrant scent of Autumn pass was then overtaken by the strong smell of hot, burning rubber. 

“Nice,” A staticky voice spoke from inside your ear.

Above you, a drone was flying closely behind, tracking and streaming your vehicle’s position for the people down the road. 

“You’re acting like this is my first time, Hak.”

You heard a chuckle. 

A small group of cars preceded your position, driving in the same haphazard manner as you did. A gallant dance through mountainous roads fueled by the adrenaline of a perfect drift.

This specific pass was a favorite amongst locals and tourists. The area surrounding the pass itself has been closed off to the general public, having been built specifically for the purpose of tōge drifting by a retired hobbyist. 

Down the winding roads, a graveled patch of land became the communal area for both drivers and passing car enthusiasts. During these grassroots events, local body shops would set up tents alongside their vehicles to advertise their products and services. What’s a better way to sell than to show how your products perform after all?

Small groups of people would also flock into the scene to build connections with other hobbyists. 

You used to be one of those people, and now having conquered the winding roads of this mountain pass numerous times yourself, you’ve managed to garner quite the amount of respect on your own name. 

“Heads up, the last two courses are a tight turn. A civic just crashed.”

You watched as the drone flew ways ahead of you, assumingly to check out the accident. A moment later, you heard the static voice of Haknyeon again. 

“Driver is fine, car is totaled though. Just slow down your speed and keep to your left.”

 “Got it. Thanks, Hak.”

“No worries. Just get down here safely.”

You loosened your press on the gas pedal before shifting gears to ease off speed. Outside, the air was bitingly cold. You wondered if Haknyeon was keeping himself warm.

Before you can think more into it, the sight of two pairs of waving hands caught your attention from the outskirts of the highway. They signaled you to veer away from the crash and you responded by hoisting your arm out of the window and pumping it in acknowledgment. 

Hak was right. The car was completely totaled, but you’re glad to see the driver was doing fine. It’s scary to think that, that could be you under any unfortunate circumstance. A huge risk that always comes with devilishly dancing through the mountain roads. 

You watched briefly as the owner wrestled his damaged fender off his vehicle before laying it against a tree trunk. Once you passed him, you picked up speed again and prepared yourself to approach the last turn.

Down in the flatlands, Haknyeon stood waiting from underneath a tent. A Nissan GT-R Nismo was parked in front of him with its high beams shining down the gravel road. Down under, a set of neon orange lowlights covered the ground. Tangerine—he affectionately called it. The payoff from his hard work, and numerous wins from racing the streets.

“She’s on her last turn.” His friend spoke, tracking your position from the drone he was controlling from a screen.

“Good.”

Haknyeon walked towards the road. A couple of people greeted him with a wave.

Haknyeon was a well-loved mechanic by both car hobbyists and local civilians alike. He was good with his hands, and even better at his builds. So although he didn’t dabble in tōge drifting himself, he still managed to capture the trust of its drivers. 

The sound of a revving engine and the familiar scent of burning black rubber took the mechanic’s attention away to the mountain pass exit. A sleek silver Nissan quickly pulled up gaining the attention of the photographers and videographers on standby.

They ran following the car, pumping their fists up in the air, and were met with the driver revving in response. Shutter speeds can be heard all the way to where Haknyeon was standing, and he made way as the car finally pulled up to the empty lot beside him. 

You unbuckle your belt the moment you parked your car, making a move to remove your safety helmet. Haknyeon quickly opened the door and greeted you by messing your hair up. 

“How was it?”

You playfully swat his hand away. “Fun, as always.”

You finally turned and greeted him with a smile. He returned it, making amends with his earlier actions by tucking stray pieces of hair away from your face. Why was it suddenly becoming warm?

The moment was disrupted by the sound of a pickup hauling the totaled car from earlier. Haknyeon grimaced at the sight of the damage. 

“Ouch. That’s gonna cost a lot.”

“Small price to pay to keep an expensive hobby.”

You walked towards the tent, greeting your other friend with a wave. He nodded back in response.

“Expensive hobby, cars are, huh?”

“Very, which is why you should never get into it.”

“Kind of too late for that now though, isn’t it,” Haknyeon pointed towards his car, “considering I just finished modding my car.”

You burst into a fit of giggles with Haknyeon. You find it funny how the both of you always discouraged the other from getting into the underground racing scene despite the fact that you’ve both been a part of it even before you met. 

Haknyeon reached into his jacket pocket before walking in front of you. You see the glint of your mismatched beaded friendship bracelet illuminated by the faint light of his orange car. 

“Here,” he grabbed your right hand gently, “I kept it till you got back.”

Haknyeon wore the friendship bracelet around your wrist, mirroring the one on his left arm. His fingers were gentle in placing them on you, making a move to turn it to display two little charms that were similar to his own. There was a moment’s pause before he finally decided to put your hand back down. 

The Autumn air was still bitingly cold, so why was it that you felt the tips of your ears getting hot?

You cleared your throat, thanking him. His own cheeks were twinged with the lightest shade of pink.

“Isn’t it kinda insane that we’ve managed to keep this tradition for three whole years now?” 

He laughed. “Yeah, I don’t even remember how it started.”

Haknyeon pulled out a monoblock chair and offered it to you before sitting down on the one beside it. 

“I do. You kept insisting that the bracelet caught onto your gear stick, so you had to take it off before a race.”

“Hey, it really did! And I wasn’t being insistent.”

“Yeah, you were,” you laughed, “it's the whole reason why we have this silly little tradition in the first place.”

Cars were starting to disperse from the area. There was a dwindling down of noise from conversations of a thinning crowd, with hush whispers slowly being swept away into the sleeping mountain. Your mutual friend had also left the tent a couple of minutes ago to fetch his drone from the lot. 

Haknyeon thought back to when this small tradition of yours started. Three years ago, after a slow day at the tracks he called his home, you guys decided to craft these little charm bracelets from a mutual friend’s stash. You made Haknyeon a colorful strand decorated with the charms of a mango and a mountain, a little reminder of you when you’re not around. 

For you, he picked out a wrench and an orange, accompanied by a mismatched color palette of warm-toned beads. It was charming - albeit a little silly, but the both of you have worn them since then. 

Haknyeon will admit that he may have been slightly insistent that the bracelet distracted him while driving. At first, it was true, the little charms kept getting caught in between his hand and his gear stick, but it slowly morphed into a superstitious tradition that he just had to have you keep it for him as an unspoken promise of his safe return. You did the same with yours. 

“It’s a tad bit silly but I like doing it,” he said, “Makes me hold on to a promise that I’ll return back to you safely.”

You hummed. There was something inherently intimate about this conversation.

“Then let’s keep doing it. To promise each other that despite the dangers of our hobby, we’ll always return to each other’s side safely,” You paused, “For the bracelets, of course.”

Haknyeon nodded, fiddling with the charm of his own bracelet. 

“As long as you promise that you’ll always be there when I return.”

“I promise.”

-

[chemistink]

I Know More Than You Do

A Takeshin for @foulpetsmusicfriend for @initialdsecretsanta

I'm sorry it's so late but here is some adorable meme fluff with these two. They're gross boyfriends. I love them. hope you do too.

“I need a what?” Shingo stepped away from the front fender of his hatch, hip hurting from the way he’s been leaning against it for over an hour now, listening to the way Takeshi has been rattling on and on about fuses and different amperages. Once, in a past that feels like another lifetime ago despite the short amount of time that has passed, he might have rolled his eyes at Takeshi and told him to get away from his car. He might have even made a dig at him, at his R32, at his Silvia from before. At his technique that he tries to perfect and is still shaky to handle. Once, not so long ago, he might have been a lot meaner than he is now as he leans against the roof of the car, watching Takeshi press the little rubber buttons on the scanner that he has plugged into the EK’s OBD port.

“It’s a power relay. Accessory relay, really.” Takeshi doesn’t look up from the scanner in his hand as he continues to press through menus. “I can clear the code but in reality, you’re better off replacing it now before you have to keep doing this.” Shingo wants to lean in, wants to ask Takeshi what the hell he means. Shingo really wants to kneel next to the driver side seat and put his knees into the concrete to get himself at a better level to talk to Takeshi during this. But he is still trying to keep some decorum of rivalry between them before the rest of the team becomes aware that Shingo hasn’t been pushing Takeshi’s buttons for a reason.

All of that aside, it doesn’t stop the way Takeshi sits up in the seat and leans further over to allow Shingo the perfect angle to see what he’s working on. It’s perfectly aligned to allow Takeshi’s head to rest against Shingo’s arm, if he wants. And Shingo doesn’t even have to lean any further into the car for a firm press of his knee against Takeshi’s thigh. It’s the perfect excuses. No one would bat an eye. No one would even notice, if there was anyone around to even care. Not when Shingo’s car is parked at Takeshi’s apartment complex and hidden behind the large body of the R32. Not when it’s barely light outside and the overhead light of the EG have to illuminate the small scanner that sits in Takeshi’s hand.

“Alright but what the hell does that mean, Nakazato?” Hidden away in the corner or not, Shingo knows better than to allow it sound like he’s affected by Takeshi’s presence. He’s here purely for his car, not because he’s here the morning after. That’s all. If he tells himself that enough, he wonders if the people around him will believe it too. Takeshi’s thigh bumps his knee and presses firm. “It means you’re going to have to head to the parts store and get a new relay.” He looks up through the thick black fringe that has fallen over his eyes. “Or do you need someone to hold your hand?”

The mock is far too gentle, and Shing is glad the parking lot is extremely empty at this point. He had taunted Takeshi, sure, started this whole thing, but it wasn’t like he meant for it to turn into <i>anything</i>. “Shut up, Takeshi,” he says under his breath as he nudges the thigh back. The dark is enough that the heat in his cheeks isn’t noticeable and he keeps his head tucked down to watch Takeshi work. 

“I’ll go with you anyway, I need to look at getting a few things for the R just in case. Races are coming up and i don’t want to end up having to chase down something as simple as a tune up when I need to get to work later on.” Takeshi finishes whatever he’s doing and Shingo watches him lean down to unplug the scanner in his hand from the port and press the little piece of trim back into place. “And someone has to make sure you get the right part.” 

“Shut <i>up</i>, Takeshi.” 

The drive to the parts store is rather quiet, despite the fact hat Takeshi insists on having the radio playing when the R32 starts. He’s tried to convince Takeshi there isn’t any reason they need to have emo karaoke <i>every time they have to drive somewhere</i> but it’s never a firm thing. He always mentions it but he doesn’t stop Takeshi from turning it on each time. And most drives, he has to press his hand over his mouth to hide the fact that he’s also quietly singing along under his breath. 

“It’s a ten minute drive.” He says when they get into the R32, Shingo giving Takeshi a sneer and a mocking <i>seat belt</i> mouthed as he sees the way Takeshi glares at him, waiting to hear the click of the belt into the buckle before he’ll even press the emergency brake down. “We don’t need a whole concert and I don’t even need this thing.” He tugs at the seat belt as it sits across his chest. 

Takeshi rolls his eyes and he doesn’t even glance over at Shingo as he shifts, backing out of his spot. “It’s a ten minute drive, Shingo. You’ll live.” 

There has never been a moment in Shingo’s entire life, since the moment he got his license to drive, that he’s ever regretted driving a manual. And driving with Takeshi has never made him feel anything but safe when he feels how smooth he shifts as they make it through the city streets. He loves having a hand on the shifter and in the EG, it’s so easy for him to feel comfortable with his hands occupied. 

But now he sits so often in the R32, his hands thumping against his thighs, empty and sometimes colder than he’s used to. They’re free to do whatever he wants but changing the radio station and messing with the knobs of Takeshi’s car don’t interest him the way it does when he has to ride with anyone else. 

What he wants to do with his one hand, his free hand, the one that drums against his thigh incessantly, is something he would only do in the dark cabin of the car, hidden away from the world, covered by the dark tint of the R32’s windows. So he waits for the right moment when he can reach over and place his palm over the knuckles of Takeshi’s hand. 

He knows Takeshi could say something. He has before, each time they’ve done this before. He’s mentioned how sweet it is that Shingo shows the tiny bit of affection, even if he does it in the secret of the car, away from prying eyes. It had been a moment, the first time, when Takeshi had teased Shingo and instead of the usual snark back, Takeshi had gotten vulnerable Shingo with a slight pout and averted eyes who didn’t want to talk about it. 

They’re better now. So much better now. Takeshi accepts the little bits of affection that Shingo is able to do when they’re out like this. And Shingo has learned to give more affections than just hidden away from the world. But Takeshi is kind by not bringing it up again and Singo thanks him by sliding his fingers into Takeshi’s and giving a gentle squeeze. 

Shingo manages to keep his hand there, keeping his arm relaxed, his wrist moving with each shift of movement. He lets his head fall back and rolls back and forth as he watches out of the window while they drive, a short distance turning into a calm that Shingo rarely gets. 

He’s glad for the way Takeshi parks, confident to a fault. It’s the same way he gets out of the car and the way he walks into the parts store, with Shingo in tow. But the way he’s confident to a <i>fault</i> is hilarious to Shingo when one of the cashiers comes around the counter to greet them and Takeshi holds up a hand. 

“I know more than you do.” He says it with a straight face. Without any inflection in his tone. Like he truly believes that he knows more than the man who is literally employed to help them find the things they are looking for. 

And Shingo believes that is the case but he won’t ever say that to Takeshi’s face in public. So he just rolls his eyes instead, connecting with the cashier when he looks at Shingo with wide eyes and a look that asks if Takeshi was being serious. 

The relay is easy enough to find. The belts for Takeshi’s R32 are easy enough to find. Getting a gasket set and some extra oil is simple and Shingo has no qualms with grabbing the stuff from Takeshi’s hands so he can carry it and contribute to the search. Especially when a second employee comes around a shelf and Takeshi holds up his hand again and explains, once more, that he <i>knows more</i> and Shingo waits until the man makes his way back around the other side of the shelf to smile to himself with a little bit of pride. 

“That’s so unnecessary, you know.” Shingo says as he holds out his arms for the brakes that Takeshi picks up to turn over in his hands, as if he’s contemplating not getting them. “I’m sure they don’t need to know that you know more than them.” 

“You would think so but I had one guy try to tell me I didn’t know what type of R I drove and I’m not making that mistake ever again.” He grabs a second box and puts them both on top of the pile that is starting to fill Shingo’s arms. “He tried to sell me headlight bulbs that weren’t meant for the R. I’m not even sure they were meant for Nissans but that’s neither here nor there.” 

Shingo happily carries the pile of parts that make his arms ache to the front, a smirk on his lips when Takeshi does it again, holding up the palm of his hand for the cashier to see as he starts into a speech they all know he has rehearsed and is told he has to recite with each customer that comes through. “Sorry,” Shingo says with a big grin. “He knows more than you.” 

[astro402]

5 Benefits of Rubber Products to The Marine Industry

Rubber products are being adopted against different industrial sectors such as defense, marine, and automatics industries. They tend to be extremely beneficial. There are several types of rubber products.

Why choose rubber over other products?

As far as the marine environment is concerned, it is necessary to maintain their safety. Rubber is one of the most versatile and resilient elements that is the best for the marine environment.

The marine environment is too harsh, which is why it is necessary to choose elements that can cater to the needs.

The marine industry products will eventually be exposed to wind, rain, seawater, UV rays, and a hot and cold environment. The other characteristics of rubber products also cater to the needs of the marine environment.

Some of the prominent factors that have contributed to rubber products being a popular choice for the marine industry include the following :

● Resistant to strain ● Steam resistant ● Durability against chemicals and oils ● Easy adaptability with other metal bodies

Which is the best rubber?

Rubber has a vital role to play across the marine industry. The right rubber product will eventually be determined on which part it will be used. The right rubber product will ultimately depend on whether it will be used in the interiors or the exteriors.

The shore hardness will also depend on what type of rubber is being used. Depending on the requirements, either rigid or flexible rubber, will be used. Make sure to find a company that will cater to your rubber products’ needs across the marine industry.

What are the rubber products used across the marine industry?

There are different types of rubber products in the marine industry. Each of these materials plays a vital role in determining what’s best. Some of the standard rubber marine products include the following.

– Hatch Packing

Hatch Packing is one of the most commonly used products in the marine industry.

These are also known as gaskets and ensure that the doors of the ship consist of a watertight seal. Rubber is used for hatch Packing because of its fire-resistant and anti-corrosive nature.

The types of rubber used for hatch Packing include neoprene, EPDM and natural rubber.

– Bumpers and Fender

Bumpers and fenders are extremely important in the marine industry as they are responsible for absorbing energy across the bumps and knocks.

These act as a protective barrier, thereby protecting the ship against any potential damage.

Rubber proves to be the best material for the manufacturing of bumpers and fenders because it can be easily compressed.

Furthermore, rubber paves the way for easy absorption. Butadiene rubber and PVC are used mostly for the manufacture of bumpers and fenders.

– Corners and End Pieces

Corners and end pieces are great, especially for a place where there is a light seal requirement.

Since rubber is used in the manufacturing procedure, the compression will easily be adjusted depending on the situation. Corner and end pieces made using rubber can easily withstand wear and tear.

Almost all types of rubber are suitable for the manufacturing of corner and end pieces.

– Extrusions

Extrusions are used for several purposes on a marine ship, especially for sealing. Rubber tends to provide strength and flexibility, which contributes to making extrusions that can cater to the audience’s requirements.

Some of the common types of rubber used for making extrusions include neoprene, nitrile, natural rubber, silicone, butadiene rubber, styrene, and EPDM.

Marine Rubber Compound Application

As far as marine applications are concerned, chloroprene and neoprene are used at a tremendous rate because of their resistance quality to saltwater.

Natural rubber can suit the purpose as well because of low levels of salt spray. At the same time, extra seal protection can also be provided using a sealed or covered unit.

How to avoid building up the heat?

Rubber selection is essential, but it also causes heat buildup, which can cause problems. The high-frequency dynamics contribute to the high heat buildup.

In most cases, molecular friction is also the leading cause of rubber heating up, which further causes failure of metal to rubber bond or rubber buildup failure.

A strong rubber with low dynamic stiffness can contribute to avoiding heat buildup. Whenever using rubber products for the marine industry, it is necessary to keep in mind that high elastic compounds and low damping can effectively cater to the needs.

Benefits of using rubber products in the marine industry

As discussed above, rubber products have been used in the marine industry for a long time.

It is necessary to analyze all aspects thoroughly to avoid any inconvenience. One damage to a product may pose a severe threat to the marine industry.

Mentioned below are some of the benefits of using rubber products across the marine industry.

– Safe

Rubber is one of the safest materials to use for the marine industry. Industrial safety can be determined using rubber products.

Rubber is a useful sealant material that can cater to the needs of the industry by preventing the risk of wear and tear. Rubber is a flexible material that can withstand wear and tear in the long run.

It can easily withstand chemical and electrical damage. Furthermore, rubber can easily withstand damage due to high temperatures. Rubber can easily cater to industrial operations, thereby fighting off any problem that may come the way.

– Resilience

Rubber products are incredibly resilient and can easily withstand any damage. The marine environment is very harsh, especially water bodies like oceans and seas.

The high amount of salt can pose harm to the ship. Rubber being a resilient product can easily withstand these damages. The rubber products in the ship will eventually be prone to seawater, rain and UV rays.

As a result, it will be extremely damaging. Compared to other products, rubber can withstand these damages due to saltwater.

Due to the versatility of rubber, it is used for the manufacture of marine products such as life jackets, small floating boats, and more.

– A staple for certain products

Rubber is used for the production of certain products. Since a lot of products are manufactured using rubber in the marine industry, it has become a staple.

A lot of products in the marine industry are dependent upon rubber for manufacturing. Rubber boats and life jackets made of rubber makes floating easy.

Apart from that, a lot of equipment used in the manufacture of ships also requires the usage of rubber to avoid shocks.

– Flexible

Rubber is one of the most flexible materials that can easily withstand any damage. Since the rubber is so flexible, it is ideally used for manufacturing the products.

– Physical Features

Rubber products are designed to suit water resistance, electrical conductivity and resistance.

Hence, rubber can be used even in water. The rubber gasket sheets are one of the comprehensive examples of resistance as well as abrasion.

Rubber is used for sealing applications because of the flexibility. Even when the applied stress is removed, it can quickly come back to its original shape without any damage.

Takeaway

Rubber products have become synonymous with the marine industry. As a business, if you deal with the marine industry, you must choose high-grade rubber for the manufacture of products.

Rubber products are found almost everywhere in the marine industry. Experts recommend the usage of rubber products to enhance the impact.

Also, choosing the right rubber manufacturing company is crucial. A lot of companies have preferred R-Tech Industries. R-Tech Industries is one of the leading and top-rated Rubber Manufacturers In India.

[donkies11]

D.I.Y.

"I've nothing much to offer There's nothing much to take I'm an absolute beginner And I'm absolutely sane" #TGS #D11

Saved my self a few bob, I did. A couple o’ quid left in me pocket. Got an appraisal a week or so back. 500 plus they wanted. And, being them a body shop — it was a fair price. But… 500 bens for a bent-up truck’s fender? It’s just the bloody holes of the rubber fender bit had stretched out passed where the bolts could hold to the frame o’ the beast. So… A few bucks for a small packet of washers,…

[tacofriend]

Hot take the Deora III sucks ass.

If you aren't interested in Hot Wheels cars, car design, or cars in general, you don't have to read further. If you do, I have included links that will hopefully make understanding this easier.

The original Deora was very much of its time, the 1960s. It has that very muscle car feel, a bit like a cab over version of the Chevrolet El Camino. When I first encountered the toy, I could pretty much instantly recognize the time period from which it came. And of course, this first version defined the platonic concept of a Deora. The Deora is a truck/ute thing in which the cab sits at the very front of the vehicle without a hood or engine bay in front of it. There are no side doors, but instead, the front opens up to allow passenger and driver to enter and exit the cab.

And then we get the Deora III which like, excuse me but what the fuck is this‽ This isn't a Deora. Like yeah the driver sits in front of the front wheels and there's a bed in the back, but why is there no roof, or even a windscreen? Why is there a bicycle in the back? Why is the front end lower than my knees? Why does it look like someone cut a massive chunk out of it? What the fuck is going on here‽

The Deora II takes this concept and rebuilds it with the design language of the late 90s and early 00s. Instead of a boxy 60s muscle car design that the original Deora had, the Deora II had a much softer bubblier style that was incredibly common in the design language of the time. While it keeps the cab over front end and long bed, it presents those with swooping curves and round headlights and round vents. Instead of the muscle car style wheels and fat tires that the original had, the Deora II boasted massive rims and tires that looked like rubber bands, as was aesthetically desirable at the time.

So it fails on two levels. Firstly, it fails to analyze or understand contemporary 2020s car design language. Secondly, it fails to even be a Deora with that two box design.

So first, understanding 2020s car design language. Today's automotive design language is very angular and aggressive. Trucks are boxy and chunky. Cars all have angry headlights and frowning grills. The Deora III hardly had headlights at all, and pretty much no grill. Its open design is reminiscent of the Renault Laguna concept car, which is from the 90s.

Additionally it fails to even look like a Deora. While it does have a long bed, the way that the body panels are cut, instead of having a two box design, the primary shape that stands out is a weird V or a check mark coming down from the rear tailgate, bottoming out in the middle of the bed, and then rising to form the roll bar. It's cut so low that you end up with this wall thing inset from the actual side of the car. And I use the word cut deliberately. With this deep V and the lack of any windscreen or side windows, it looks like they took a Deora and frantically cut it to ribbons with a pair of scissors.

It reminds me of Mr Regular's thoughts on both the third generation Toyota MR2 and Back to the Future III. "AW11 is Back to the Future Part 1, classic 80s, love it, smile every time I see it. SW20: Back to the Future 2: everything you liked about Part 1 but more! ZZW30... Part 3 Why is this a convertible? Why are we in the old west? Where's the flying DeLorean? Where are the popup headlights?"

I'm not asking for a re-release of the Deora II that I loved in my childhood. I want a Deora III that looks like a Deora made for modern times. I probably won't like it as much, but that's because I'm a child of the 90s and 00s. I grew up playing Need for Speed Underground and watching 2 Fast 2 Furious. But those times are gone. Even the new Fast and Furious movies have abandoned the gaudy design of the 00s with custom body kits and custom paint jobs for at most flat black paint and fender flares. Heck, most modified cars in modern car culture look stock. People aren't going for all show and no go anymore, and there are reasons for that, both economic and social, and we can go into those at a later time.

I just want a Deora III that speaks accurately to the times we live in and the design language of contemporary car design while also holding true to the original concept and shape of the Deora.

[hongshengrubber]

Pier Rubber Fender Ensures Safe Offshore Operations

Pier rubber fenders play a crucial role in safeguarding vessels, ports, and other maritime structures by absorbing impact and providing a protective barrier during docking and mooring operations. In this article, we will delve into the significance and functionalities of pier rubber fenders, exploring their construction, types, and benefits in ensuring safe and efficient maritime operations.

Importance of Pier Rubber Fenders:

Pier rubber fenders serve as a vital interface between vessels and ports, mitigating the impact caused by berthing ships and minimizing potential damage to both the vessel and the pier structure. They are designed to absorb kinetic energy, reducing the risk of collisions, and ensuring the safety of personnel, vessels, and cargo. Additionally, these fenders help to minimize downtime, maintenance costs, and potential disruptions to maritime operations.

Types of Pier Rubber Fenders:

Arch Fenders:

Arch fenders consist of a robust rubber body with a hollow cross-section. Their unique design allows for increased deflection, making them suitable for various vessel sizes and berthing conditions. Arch fenders offer excellent energy absorption and low reaction force, making them an ideal choice for high-performance applications.

Cone Fenders:

Cone fenders feature a conical shape and are highly efficient in absorbing energy during vessel impact. They distribute the load evenly, minimizing stress on the vessel and the pier structure. Cone fenders are known for their high energy absorption capacity and low reaction force, making them suitable for both small and large vessels.

Cell Fenders:

Cell fenders are characterized by their cylindrical shape, consisting of multiple rubber cells connected by steel bars. The design allows for flexibility and efficient energy absorption, making them suitable for both small and large vessels, including bulk carriers and container ships. Cell fenders provide high energy absorption and are highly durable, with resistance to wear and tear.

Advantages of Pier Rubber Fenders:

Superior Impact Resistance:

Pier rubber fenders are engineered to withstand significant impact forces, ensuring the safe berthing and docking of vessels. Their resilient rubber construction and innovative design allow them to absorb and dissipate the kinetic energy generated during vessel contact, minimizing potential damage to both the vessel and the pier.

Cost-Effective Solution:

Investing in high-quality pier rubber fenders proves to be a cost-effective solution in the long run. Their ability to absorb impact and protect vessels and infrastructure reduces the risk of costly repairs or accidents. Moreover, their durability and low maintenance requirements contribute to overall cost savings.

Pier rubber fenders are an essential component of maritime infrastructure, ensuring the safety and efficiency of vessel berthing and docking operations. With their superior impact resistance, versatility, low maintenance, and cost-effectiveness, these fenders provide a reliable solution for protecting vessels and maritime structures. By selecting the appropriate type and design, port authorities and operators can enhance the safety, durability, and operational efficiency of their facilities, facilitating smooth maritime operations for years to come.

[orange1896]

LIUGONG WHEEL LOADER SPARE PARTS 122

35B0661 INSTRUMENT 37B2979 SENSOR 56A5811 BLOCK 48C6276 HOUSING 08D2354 FLANGE 24C3626 LINKAGE 24C3624 BOOM 24C3625 BUCKET LEVER 18C0440 HOSE AS SP187354 COVER SP187355 PLUG SP187356 RING NUT SP187357 LOCKING PLATE SP187358 SHAFT RETAINER SP187359 DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER SP187360 COVER SP187361 SHIM KIT SP187362 BEVEL GEAR SET SP187363 WHEEL STUD SP187364 HALF SHAFT SP187365 CENTERING RING SP187366 PLANET GEAR CARRIER SP187367 WHEEL HUB SP187368 RING GEAR SP187370 AXLE CASE SP187371 PINION SP187372 PISTON SP187373 ADJUSTING BOLT SP187375 BACK - UP RING SP187376 RING SP187377 O - RING SP187378 O - RING SP187379 DISC SP187381 FRICTION WASHER SP187382 BEARING SP187383 STUD SP187384 PLUG SP187385 VENT SP187387 DIFFERENTIAL SHAFT SP187388 COVER PLATE SP187389 NUT SP187390 SPACER SP187393 BLEEDING BOLT SP187394 PLUG SP187395 PLUG SP187396 MAGNETIC PLUG 00A8909 CONNECTOR 71A2340 ELEMENT BASE 38Y0626X0 BUCKET AS 12C7813 CHECK VALVE 67C3905 HOSE AS 70C3455 CAB HARNESS 70C3473 HARNESS 16D3045 PUSH ROD 75A1762 TORSION SPRING 75A1763 TORSION SPRING 16D3046 PUSH ROD 18D9776 BRACKET 70C3448 HARNESS 70C3441 HARNESS 34C8821 BUSHING 34C8825 BUSHING 18D9775 BRACKET 60C2489X0 RADIATOR MOUNTING 34C8827 BUSHING 34C8826 BUSHING 34C8822 BUSHING 34C8823 BUSHING 34C8824 BUSHING 34C8828 BUSHING 86A3329D0 PROTECTIVE COVER 41D1887D0 STEP 42D2297D0 SHIELD-LH 32A4845 HOSE 18D9664 BRACKET 92A7595 PLATE 18D9757 COMPRESSOR BRACKET 48D1815 BRACKET 33D1545 LOWER HINGE PLATE 33D1544 UPPER HINGE PLATE SP195470 PREFILTER SP195487 FUEL DRAIN TUBE SP195488 PLAIN WASHER SP195490 OIL COOLER CORE GASKET SP195491 OIL FILLER CONNECTION SP195492 ADAPTER CONNECTOR SP195493 OVERHAUL KONG GAI 43C3412X8 FORK SP186483 SEAL KIT SP186487 CYLINDER HEAD SP186488 PISTON SP186489 PISTON ROD SP186490 CYLINDER 48C5902X0 TOP COVER 48C5861X0 ENGINE HOOD 04C1552 HOSE AS 02C3216 TUBE AS 04C1553 HOSE AS 30D4051X0 FRONT FRAME 30D4051X9 FRONT FRAME 24C3544 LINKAGE 24C3542 BOOM 24C3543 LEVER 34D0397X0 BEAM FRAME 24C3530 BOOM AS 08D2427 TUBE AS 08D2428 TUBE AS 08D2433 TUBE AS 40D1646X0 REAR FENDER-RH 40D1645X0 REAR FENDER-LH 97A1469 PLATE 07A7927 SUPPORT 25D0847 FORK BODY 43C8327 BRACKET AS 08D2436 TUBE AS 67C3840 HOSE AS 49C8150 HOSE 18C0321 HOSE AS 67C3843 HOSE AS 67C3842 HOSE AS 08D2351 TUBE AS 08D2336 TUBE AS 67C3886 HOSE AS 08D2437 TUBE AS 79A4989 DECAL 08D1968 TUBE AS 58A6235 PLATE 67C2837 HOSE AS 67C2840 HOSE AS 20C3496 WATER RADIATOR 20C3497 OIL COOLER 20C3498 TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER 20C3495 RADIATOR GP 18D9465 PLATE 49C8064 HOSE 49C8068 HOSE 49C8069 HOSE GP 49C8070 HOSE GP 48C6275 HOUSING 70C3392 CAB HARNESS 21D1477T2 BOOM 30D4280 REAR FRAME SP194504 SECONDARY FUEL FILTER ELEMENT 30D3990 REAR FRAME 67C2980 FUEL HOSE 18C0030 HOSE AS 42C2082 GEARBOX &TORQUE CONVERTER AS 18C0052 HOSE AS 18C0335 HOSE AS 07C3951 HOSE AS 07C3977 HOSE AS 18C0003 HOSE AS 18C0002 HOSE AS 08D2353 TUBE AS 41C3241 MIDDLE DRIVE SHAFT 51C0853 DRIVE SHAFT 38Y0658X0 BUCKET AS 39Y0189X0 GRAPPLE 42D3341 MAST 11D2067 PIN 70C3422 HARNESS 77A2721 BOLT 30B1422 LIQUID LEVEL SWITCH 18D7320 BRAKE CYLINDER BRACKET 70A1444 BRAKE HOUSING 70C2618 CAB HARNESS 30C3653 FITTING 70C2439 CAB HARNESS 70C3389 HARNESS 98A5710 PLATE 24C2738X0 BOOM 82A4507 RUBBER PLATE 67C2633 HOSE AS 23D5744 MOUNTING PLATE 85A7029 DOME DECORATION AS 11C2965 STEERING PUMP 18A8599 BLADE GP 18A8598 CUTTING EDGE SP184229 THERMOSTAT GASKET SP188568 SEAL KIT SP188569 SAFETY VALVE SP188570 FLANGE SP188571 FLANGE YOKE SP188572 FLANGE YOKE 47C4362 HOUSING 86A4118 HOUSING 86A4120 HOUSING 76A1262 SNAP RING 98A6571 BRACKET 98A6572 BRACKET 27C1362X0 TOOL KIT 86A4117 HOUSING 84A5215 RUBBER SLEEVE 86A4119 HOUSING SP189879 TEMP SENSOR ASSY 18D8105 BRACKET 18D8104 BRACKET 79A3218 DECAL SP111999 IDLER 49C8138 EVAPORATOR 70C3317 HARNESS SP193222 MANIFOLD EXHAUST SP193223 AFTERCOOLER SP193224 MAGNETIC SWITCH SP193225 TUBE AIR INTAKE SP193226 BRACKET MAGNETIC SWITCH 49C8073 HOSE 12C7853 DIRECTIONAL VALVE 46D3748 MOUNTING PLATE 34B1993 SWITCH 34B1992 SWITCH 70C3374 CAB HARNESS 05C9803 HOSE AS 48A9551 PLATE 05C9804 HOSE AS 11D2042 PIN SP187720 THREADED PLUG SP187722 THREADED PLUG SP187724 HEXAGON FLANGE HEAD CAP SCREW SP187727 HEXAGON FLANGE HEAD CAP SCREW SP187728 HEXAGON FLANGE HEAD CAP SCREW SP187729 HEXAGON FLANGE HEAD CAP SCREW SP187730 HEXAGON FLANGE HEAD CAP SCREW SP187731 THREADED PLUG SP187733 BANJO CONNECTOR SCREW SP187734 WIRE TIE CLAMP SP187735 O-RING SEAL 67C2830 HOSE AS SP187570 SEAL KIT SP187571 SAFETY VALVE SP187576 TURBOCHARGER SP187577 COVER PLATE SP187578 O-RING SEAL SP187584 WATER OUTLET CONNECTION SP187585 THERMOSTAT HOUSING SP187586 EXPANSION PLUG 08D1598 TUBE AS 08D1600 TUBE AS 07C9756 HOSE AS 24C3455 BOOM AS 08D1599 TUBE AS 86A2715D0 PROTECTIVE COVER 67C1994 HOSE AS 07C2457 HOSE AS 38Y0058X0 BUCKET 49C8477X0 FUSE AS 07A8468 PLATE SP187588 O-RING SEAL SP187589 TURBOCHARGER GASKET SP187591 IDLER SHAFT SP187592 IDLER SHAFT SP187593 WIRING HARNESS SP187594 SPRING HOSE CLAMP SP187596 CAMSHAFT THRUST SUPPORT SP187598 DIAMOND RING SEAL SP187600 WATER BYPASS TUBE SP187601 O-RING SEAL SP187602 O-RING SEAL SP187603 O-RING SEAL SP187604 VALVE INSERT SP187605 INTAKE VALVE SP187606 HEAT SHIELD SP187608 ALTERNATOR SUPPORT SP187609 FAN HUB SP187611 FUEL DRAIN TUBE SP187685 ENGINE LIFTING BRACKET SP187686 SIX POINT CAP SCREW SP187689 LUBRICATING OIL TRANSFER TUBE SP187690 CAMSHAFT COVER SEAL SP187691 CAMSHAFT COVER SP187692 ENGINE LIFTING BRACKET SP187695 LUBRICATING OIL PUMP GASKET SP187698 GEAR RETAINER SP187702 CONNECTION GASKET SP187703 CONNECTING ROD CAP SCREW SP187707 SEAL OIL SP187713 ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE WIRING HARNESS SP187715 WIRE TIE CLAMP SP187717 MALE UNION SP193989 PREVAILING TORQUE TYPE HEXAGON NUT WITH 95A3533 LUG 30D4033 FRONT FRAME 22D2047 BUCKET 97A1207 CUTTING EDGE 96A6619 EDGE-LH 96A6620 EDGE-RH 37B3162 CONTROLLER 07A8215 MOUNTING PLATE 79A5307 DECAL 38Y0603X0 HAY FORK SP187719 LUBRICATING OIL FILTER HEAD SP187618 CAMSHAFT SP187620 FEMALE CONNECTOR SP187621 FEMALE CONNECTOR SP187624 ADAPTER CONNECTION SP187626 THREADED PLUG SP187628 THREADED SPACER SP187629 PISTON COOLING NOZZLE SP187630 EXPANSION PLUG SP187631 VALVE INSERT SP187633 O-RING SEAL SP187635 WIRE TIE CLAMP SP187636 HEXAGON FLANGE HEAD CAP SCREW SP187639 ELECTRICAL CONNECTION SP187640 THERMOSTAT SP187642 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER COVER GASKET SP187643 MOUNTING SPACER SP187644 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY SP187645 HEXAGON FLANGE HEAD CAP SCREW SP187646 CRANKSHAFT ADAPTER SP187648 IDLER GEAR SP187651 PRESSURE SENSING TUBE SP187653 BELT TENSIONER SUPPORT 27C1391X0 COUNTERWEIGHT SP190627 CYLINDER HEAD SP190628 FLYWHEEL SHELL SP190633 SUCTION TUBE 18D8907 BRACKET 18C0426 HOSE AS 08D2489 TUBE AS 67C3994 HOSE AS 48D1742 COVER 55A9777 BUSHING 24C3623 LINKAGE 24C3622 LEVER 67C3971 HOSE AS 70C3427 HARNESS 69A0890 PLATE 49C8075 HOSE GP 67C3595 HOSE AS 12C8143 RELIEF VALVE 70C2588 CAB HARNESS 01Y0354X8 FRONT AXLE AS 01Y0457X8 REAR AXLE AS SP189501 FUEL FILTER ELEMENT SP189502 FLYWHEEL 39Y0184X0 WORK IMPLEMENT LINES AS 30D4310 FRONT FRAME 67C3782 HOSE AS SP192208 STOP SLEEVE SP192210 DRIVE SHAFT SP192214 SPRING SP192215 SEAL KIT 38Y0185X0 BUCKET 24C3505 LEVER 24C3504 LEVER 11D2062 PIN 11D2059 PIN 95A3811 PLATE 96A6933 PLATE 96A6941 PLATE 55A9700 BUSHING 18C0395 HOSE AS 67C3900 HOSE AS 59A1776 PLATE 55A9704 BUSHING 55A9648 BUSHING 55A9671 BUSHING 38Y0642X0 BUCKET AS 70C3458 HARNESS 70C3486 HARNESS 01Y0654 REAR AXLE Read the full article

[laocommunity]

Unleashing the Future of Dock Safety: Trelleborg, Bridgestone, YOKOHAMA, and Goodyear at the forefront of the Global Dock Fenders Market 2023 – A KaleidoScot Special Report

Unleashing the Future of Dock Safety: Trelleborg, Bridgestone, YOKOHAMA, and Goodyear at the forefront of the Global Dock Fenders Market 2023 – A KaleidoScot Special Report #Unleashing the Future of Dock Safety: Trelleborg, Bridgestone, YOKOHAMA, and Goodyear at the Forefront of the Global Dock Fenders Market 2023 – A KaleidoScot Special Report# Are you familiar with the concept of dock safety? In simple terms, it involves preventing accidents and injuries that could happen near and around a dock. Establishing protocols to ensure the safety of dock workers, goods, and equipment is crucial, given the significant financial and operational losses that can result from accidents. One primary component of dock safety is the use of dock fenders. These protect docks and vessels from damage during loading and unloading operations. There is a growing market for dock fenders, with Trelleborg, Bridgestone, YOKOHAMA, and Goodyear leading the way. This special report by KaleidoScot explores the future of dock safety and the contributions of these four companies to the global dock fenders market by the year 2023. #Introduction Dock safety is of utmost importance to the marine industry worldwide. Dock workers, goods, and equipment are vulnerable to accidents and injuries that can occur due to unpredictable weather conditions, human error, or technical malfunctions. The use of dock fenders is an effective measure to protect these elements from any damage that may occur during operations. The global dock fenders market is expected to grow significantly by the year 2023, with Trelleborg, Bridgestone, YOKOHAMA, and Goodyear comprising a significant share of the market. This article delves into the future of dock safety, the importance of dock fenders, and the role of these four companies in the growth of the global dock fenders market. #Dock Safety and the Importance of Dock Fenders Dock safety cannot be emphasized enough, given the high risks involved. A minor accident can result in substantial losses, and dock operators and vessel owners need to ensure the safety of their workers and equipment. Dock fenders aid in this regard by protecting vessels and docks from damage and reducing the risk of accidents. These fenders are essential for absorbing energy, reducing shock, and distributing the load evenly. Furthermore, the use of dock fenders helps prevent damage to vessels, docks, and other equipment that could occur during loading and unloading operations. Dock fenders also help protect against the aftermath of tidal waves, collisions, and storms. Additionally, fenders play a crucial role in ensuring that vessels remain stable during operations, eliminating any danger of capsizing. #Trelleborg: A Market Leader in Dock Fenders Trelleborg, based in Sweden, is a global leader in dock fenders. The company has an exhaustive range of fenders suitable for any berth, jetty, or ship. One of its most notable innovations is the "super cone fender," which uses a unique geometric profile to dissipate energy more efficiently. Trelleborg is also dedicated to providing excellent customer service, offering technical expertise, installation support, and ongoing maintenance solutions. #Bridgestone: Offering Efficient Dock Safety Solutions Bridgestone, the well-known tire company, has a robust product line of dock fenders with various shapes and sizes. Its flagship product, the "cell fender," features a rubber body with a hollow core that compresses under pressure, allowing energy to dissipate. With Bridgestone, customers have access to customized products, technical guidance, and speedy delivery. #YOKOHAMA: A Pioneer in Dock Safety Technology YOKOHAMA, a Japanese company, is another significant player in the dock fenders market. The company has been perfecting its products since 1958 and has several patents to its name. YOKOHAMA specializes in pneumatic fenders that use compressed air to absorb energy. The company's state-of-the-art facilities and advanced technology help ensure that its products meet the highest standards of quality and performance. #Goodyear: History and Innovation in Dock Safety Goodyear may be known for its tires, but the company has also established itself as a leading provider of dock fenders. Offering a vast range of the latest products in the market, Goodyear's fenders feature durable construction, high energy absorption, and easy installation. The company has been in the dock safety business for over sixty years and has established a reputation for innovation and quality. #The Future of Dock Safety: Trends and Predictions The global market for dock fenders is growing rapidly and is expected to expand even further by the year 2023. The increasing global trade and globalization of markets are creating a demand for efficient and reliable safety solutions at docks worldwide. The rise of technology is also contributing to the growth of the dock fenders market. With innovations such as self-healing materials and sensors that provide real-time feedback on fender usage, the dock safety industry is set to enter a new era of efficiency and reliability. #FAQs Q. What is the primary role of dock fenders? A. Dock fenders help protect vessels and docks from damage, reduce the risk of accidents, and absorb energy, reducing shock and distributing the load evenly. Q. Which companies are at the forefront of the global dock fenders market? A. Trelleborg, Bridgestone, YOKOHAMA, and Goodyear are the leading players in the dock fenders market. Q. What are pneumatic fenders? A. Pneumatic fenders use compressed air to absorb energy and are known for their high energy absorption. Q. What is the primary driving force behind the growth of the dock fenders market? A. The increasing global trade and globalization of markets are creating a demand for efficient and reliable safety solutions at docks worldwide. Q. What are some of the technological innovations in the dock fenders market? A. Self-healing materials and sensors that provide real-time feedback on fender usage are some of the latest innovations in the dock fenders market. Q. What should customers look for when purchasing dock fenders? A. Customers should look for factors such as durability, ease of installation, energy absorption capacity, and customizable options when purchasing dock fenders. #Conclusion Dock safety is a critical aspect of the marine industry, and dock fenders play a crucial role in ensuring safety. The dock fenders market is set to grow significantly due to increasing global trade and technological advancements. Trelleborg, Bridgestone, YOKOHAMA, and Goodyear are at the forefront of the growth, leading the way in innovation, quality, and reliability. As dock operators and vessel owners worldwide seek efficient and reliable solutions, the future of dock safety looks bright. #BUSINESS Read the full article

[stevestonbike]

52 km on Saturday.

Out again in damp weather. Roads were damp to wet and there were a few small showers. More drizzle than rain. I did the simple UBC route. The wind was a solid easterly at 15 to 20 kph. So the ride up SW Marine would be with a tailwind. The downhill run would compensate for the headwind on return.

It was warming up to 10C so I had two layers under my rain shell. I used my shoe covers and my waterproof socks. I had a single layer glove and that was the only thing that was too light. The trick is to feel just a bit cool as you start so when you warm up it is optimum. I was riding at 120 to 150 Watts so my body was putting out 4 times that as heat.

I felt comfortable at the pace I rode. Which is to say I rode at a comfortable pace. My ride averaged out a 163 Watts for 2.3 ish hours. My peak effort was 591 Watts. I actually felt like a cyclist rather than a person trying to recover fitness. I have a way to go but the train has left the station.

My FFF is still high at 5.85. Part is the temperature and that I need very non-aero clothes and the air is thicker. The rest is of course needing to get stronger. The FFF is fundamentally a gauge of heart fitness. As I get better my heart beats slower for a given effort. The heart rate is an indirect measure of blood flow which is related to oxygen consumption. Cardiac Fitness is basically more blood for a given beat. For my age I have a pretty high max heart rate. Over 2 standard deviations from the accepted mean.

I also took some twizzlers as a snack. I took 6 pieces each cut in half. That represented about 240 calories. I snacked on them the whole way out. You must allow for digestion time. It seemed to work as I did not fade over the ride.

I have also started to take a magnesium supplement. It is a magnesium bisglycinate capsule 200mg. I have had a long problem with cramps. On a short ride as this it is not a problem on the road. But getting home and taking my shoes off will trigger a calf cramp and often my abs as well. On long rides it can get nasty on the road. Seems to be helping. I have a good wife administered diet with all that green leafy stuff, but the RDA for magnesium is pretty high at 400 mg / day. I suspect that is for a person smaller than I as I am bigger than average. I am 7.3% taller, but still within the range of average weights (just). I think the supplement is a fair solution.

The type I chose is supposed to be the least disrupting to digestion. Most common types are effective laxatives. Its been a week and I am still "regular".

The bike fenders work really well. There was the usual splashing, but the bottom bracket stayed clean as did my shoes. To be fair there were few puddles. There were a couple times that road debris rubbed in the fender to tire space, but it just made noise and did not slow me down.

Keep the rubber side down.

[juliamargrait]

How to fix a fender bender without a dent

It is a common thing that comes to mind: how to pull a dent out of a car fender, how to pull a dent out of a metal fender. There are two reasons that fender benders happen. The first, and probably most common, is that one driver in a lane isn’t paying attention to what’s going on around them and they slam into another car or some other object around them without realizing it. The second reason happens when two cars pull out from opposite directions at the same time and collide with each other in the middle of the intersection as a result of their own ignorance or negligence to keep an eye on what’s happening behind them.

Assess the damage

If the fender popped out, you may be able to pop it back in. If not, you’ll need to pull the dent out of the metal. You can do this by using a plunger or other utensil that can bend metal and place it over the top of the dent. Then use your knee or foot on top of the plunger and push down into the dent with as much force as possible. Continue pushing until either you cannot push any further or it appears that you have removed all of the depth from the hole. Then use your hands to smooth out any sharp edges or creases in the metal, which should now resemble how it was before.

Choose the right tools

The first step in fixing a fender bender is choosing the right tools for the job. Ideally, you’ll need a metal file, an 8mm drill bit, and some WD-40. You might also want to buy new screws that are designed specifically for plastic or metal. However, if you don’t want to spend any money on tools, you can use old credit cards or keys as substitutes.

Follow the instructions

The best way to pull out a small, shallow dent is with a plunger. First, wet the plunger head with soapy water. Then place the plunger over the area of the dent and apply pressure. Push down and pull up repeatedly until you see the dent come out. If this doesn't work, try using boiling water instead of soapy water. Fill a pot or large pot with boiling water then dip the head of your plunger in it before you press it against your car's fender. Boiling water can expand metal molecules and sometimes make pulling out dents easier. For larger dents, use other tools that are designed for prying or pulling out dents from cars like a rubber mallet or claw hammer.

Take your time

If you want to get rid of a dent in your car, the first step is to assess the damage. If the dent is small and close enough to the surface, it’s easy to pop it out by using your hands. You can also take an unbent coat hanger, straighten it out and make a U-shape with one end pointed down. Lay that end on top of the dent and push up with both hands on either side of the hole until you feel it pop out. If that doesn’t work, you can try pouring hot water over the affected area for about 15 seconds before drying off and popping it again. This should take care of any residue that was preventing the metal from going back into shape.

Check your work

Fixing a fender is easy, and all you need is some liquid soap and water. Check out the how-to video below for details on how to pull a dent out of your car’s metal or plastic body. You can also use this method on any other surface made of metal or plastic, such as an old chair or garbage can. If your chair or trash can has been in the sun for a while, you may want to wear gloves when you remove the dent.

Fixing dents in your car's body is as easy as using some liquid soap and water!

I hope your all doubts on how to fix fender dent have cleared. If you are still stuck somewhere then you can get detailed information from autovehicleparts.

[wholesalepolh]

Tailgate trim removal 1968 el camino

Thats all I can remember now, hope i covered what you need. The trim piece below the rear window in the bed is held on by speed nutz that are accesible from inside the cab. Once the side pieces are off, the screws that hold the front corner pieces in place are exposed. Once the rear corner pieces are off, slide the long side rasil trim backward. The rear top corner pieces are held on with 2 or 3 speed nutz that are accesible in the same opening. The trim between tail lights & top bed trim are held on by 2 or 3 speed nuts. To remove the bed trim, remove the 2 small corner panels at the rear of the bed. You need to remove the inner panel from the tailgate to get at them from underneath. Transmission Wiring Harness, Trim Ring, Trunk Lid Pull Down Motor. It also includes the rubber plugs for the rear quarter panels. Chevy El Camino (1963 Down), Chevy El Camino (1964-1977), Chevy El Camino (1978 Up). The tailgate top trim is held by 4 or 5 bolts. This seal set contains the weatherstrip for the bottom and vertical sides of the tailgate. The pieces on the front fenders, behind the wheel opening are held on by speed nuts, that can only be accessed by removing the inner fender or loosening the fender itself. The only stainless trim I know of is on the window frames.Which pieces are you having trouble with? Most of the body trim is press on-pull off, except that several pieces have a srew holding them in at the door for instance. 1968-1988 Chevelle, Monte Carlo, Malibu, & El Camino black super weatherstrip ad. Kit includes: Lower tailgate seal, 2) sid. Just a heads up, all the exterior trim on our trucks is all aluminum. 78-88 Windshield Trim Plastic Weatherstrip Set (3). You might open the holes up a little with the aftermarket clips. I found the aftermarket clips I bought were entirely too tight in the stock holes. I'm not sure what clips you used, but I found using either NOS GM clips or old used ones that have been restored(I did this on a few that I was short on). Anyone installed the trim before? What size should the holes be for the push-in clips? I know the basic ideas is to take your time and not force the clips into the holes. This same part also works to secure the 1968-72 vinyl top. I don't want to make the same mistakes they did and end up with dimples in the stainless. 1.2 inches wide) molding that runs from the door back to around the tailgate on a 73-77 El Camino. Not sure what they did wrong, but I am installing new ones myself after the body shop reimbursed us. During the mock up, the stainless was dented from the back side in two different places on both pieces. You need to remove the inner panel from the tailgate to get at them from underneath. We are adding MarK stainless trim and had the body shop mock up and drill the holes before paint. The tailgate is NOS, but it didn't have the upper trim holes. OK guys, I searched the forums and found plenty of advice on REMOVING the upper stainless tailgate trim.

[2005suburban1500lt]

Body work, Radiator support, Aircon, all light fixtures new.

I backed into a parking lot bollard causing some damage, had some front fender oxidation, so I hired probably the worst garage ever to do some limited body work. Of course he tagged all the other dings but I didnt want it all done.

All headlight assemblies, blinker assemblies, tail light assemblies, were replaced with new ones. They look a lot better than the old ones. 3rd brake light above the rear door also replaced.

The radiator support bracket was replaced, which was not an easy task. The air conditioner condenser and high pressure tubing was also replaced, the aircon is ice cold.

(There is an actual hard rubber 1.5" spacer installed, I used a piece of wood while installing it as shown in the picture) Because of Hawaii regulations 3" body lift had to consider the "factory" 1.5" so I could only add another 1.5" to remain under the 3" state limitation. Also, it would've exceeded the 7' ocean cargo shipping limitation if had a total of 4.5" body lift (1.5" factory + 3" spacers would be 4.5" from frame to body, exceeding regulations)

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[optimabatteries]

This 1951 Ford COE (cab over engine) is known as The Big Bandit. It was on display at the 2018 SEMA Show in Las Vegas. While listed as a 1951 Ford COE, it was originally built around a 1977 Dodge motorhome chassis and has a one-off body fabricated from components recovered from Ford F5 COE, F4, F47 and F100 truck releases by Zombie Body Shop in Canada. It's powered by a 440 cubic-inch V-8 with an RV cam, flat-top pistons and an updated Holley electronic fuel-injection system. The transmission is a 727 Chrysler TorqueFlite automatic, equipped with a shift kit and a Boss Hog converter. Upgrades also include a Universal 4-link rear suspension, a RideTech Pro Series Air Ride system and front Shockwaves. The COE's panels were covered in orange and black finishes with hand-painted murals on the sides, plus decorative steel diamond plate inserts and a set of oak running boards with Solderweld and gold leaf accents. The interior now has Moore and Giles natural leather upholstery, captain chairs, diamond-pleated side panels and a B&M ratchet shifter. The outside uses bead-rolled trim with brass inlays, pinstriping, dual bullet-shaped searchlights, exterior sun visor, blacked-out trim and heavily modified fenders. The wheels are a set of spike-lugged Alcoa 22-inch aluminum wheels and modern thin sidewall rubber. www.powerpacknation.com

[motorbuzz]

🇺🇲 1948 OLDSMOBILE 98 FUTURAMIC CUSTOM CONVERTIBLE

For the first time since 1940 Oldsmobile offered totally different styling during a single model year. Third generation (1948–1953)

The top of the line 1948 Oldsmobile 98 was also included in a marketing campaign for what Oldsmobile called "Futuramic" on all 1949 Oldsmobiles primarily focused on the automatic transmission 1948 Oldsmobile Futuramic introduction. Standard equipment on 98s included a solenoid starter, fender skirts, E-Z-l rearview mirror, and foam rubber seat cushions. The 98s also included front and rear bumper guards, vacuum booster pump, plastic radiator ornament, dual horns, dual sun visors, and cigarette lighter. Deluxe equipment added front and rear floor mats, Deluxe steering wheel, wheel trim rings, rear seat armrests, and hydraulic window, seat and top controls on all convertibles. Upholstery was either broadcloth or leather. The standard tire size was 6.50 x 16. The Custom Cruiser name was retired until 1971 when it was used to denote full-size Oldsmobile station wagons. The new styling was apparently popular with a record 65,235 98s sold, exceeding the number of 90s sold in 1940 for the first time. The following year the new styling was joined by a new engine, the now famous Rocket V8. In February 1949, several months into the model year, General Motors introduced three highly styled "hardtop convertible" coupes, the Oldsmobile 98 Holiday, the Cadillac Series 62 Coupe de Ville, and the Buick Roadmaster Riviera, the first hardtop coupes ever produced. The Holiday was exclusive to the 98 series that year. Available in four special Holiday colors, as well as four two-tone combinations, it was priced the same as the convertible, and was similarly equipped, with hydraulically operated windows and seat. Only 3,006 Holidays were sold in its first year compared to 20,049 Club coupes. Total sales reached 93,478 in 1949, setting yet another record. The 1950 Oldsmobile 98 repeated its 1948 precedent of previewing some of next years styling cues for the 88. The 98 was restyled after only two years. It was the first totally slab sided Oldsmobile and the first sedan with wraparound rear windows. A 4-door 98 fastback appeared for one year only in 1950 and was called the Town Sedan, selling only 1,778 units. Standard equipment included bumper guards, dual horns, parking lamps, dome light, rubber floor mats, aluminum sill plates, foam rubber seat cushions, chrome interior trim, lined luggage compartment and counterbalanced trunk lid. Deluxe 98 equipment included rear seat armrest, Deluxe electric clock, Deluxe steering wheel and horn button, special door trim and stainless steel wheel trim rings. Upholstery choices spanned nylon fabric, striped broadcloth or leather. Standard tire size was 7.6 (193) by 15 inches (381 millimetres). In 1950, Oldsmobile stopped naming the 98 series and so from then through 1996, with the exception of 1957 when it was called the Starfire 98, and in 1961 when it was called the Classic 98, it was simply known as the Oldsmobile 98. Sales of the 98 Holiday nearly tripled to 8263, approaching the 11,989 sold of the Club coupe. Given the rapidly growing popularity of the 2-door Holiday hardtop, 1950 was the last year for the pillared Club coupe. Total sales set yet another record of 106,220. The 98 topped the Oldsmobile line again for 1951 with Three body styles available. The 4-door sedan and convertible came only with Deluxe equipment, while the Holiday hardtop was available with either Deluxe or Standard trim. The 98 standard equipment included bumper guards, cigarette lighter, dome light, rubber floor mats, stainless steel moldings, lined trunk, illuminated ashtray, foam rubber seat cushions and extra chrome moldings. Deluxe equipment was special rear door ornament, rear center armrests, Deluxe electric clock, Deluxe steering wheel with horn ring and special chrome trim. Upholstery choices were nylon cord, nylon cloth and leather. The pillared Club coupe was no longer offered. With the only choice in a closed 2-door 98 now being the hardtop, Holiday sales nearly doubled to 17,929 units. Read the full article