#sheung wan

[listentotheirwhispers]

好掛住好掛住好掛住好掛住好掛住你

[localwifipoacher]

December 2023 - Life in Sheung Wan.

[greenbagjosh]

Day 12 - 12 November 2003 - Hong Kong Repulse Bay, Stanley, Aberdeen, Tseung Kwan O, Kowloon, and Tung Chung

Wednesday 12 November 2003

On Wednesday 12th November 2003, I decided not to have breakfast at the hotel. I wanted to try something local, but the menus were in Chinese and I could not find anywhere suitable, other than either McDonalds or 7-Eleven. I settled on McDonald's, and the breakfast was not much different than in the USA. Also I added more value to the Octopus card at 7-Eleven, I think around US$ 30.00, plenty of money for a full day's fares on the bus.

After breakfast, I walked to Des Voeux Road to take the trolley to the Sheung Wan MTR subway station to go one stop to Central. At Central there is a bus terminal for the city busses. I had to wait fifteen minutes for a direct bus to Repulse Bay which cost about $0.75 with the Octopus card. The bus went along Des Voeux Road past Admiralty subway station, on to Queensway, Stubbs Road where it became Wong Nai Chung Gap Road and Repulse Bay Road. Coming down the hill to Repulse Bay beach, the bus passed by the Hong Kong Tennis Centre.

At the Repulse Bay beach, the main attraction is 109 Repulse Bay Road, where there is a building that has a large gap, eliminating six floors for part of the building. After that, there is a stairway to the beach, where hardly anyone was there. I stayed there for about five minutes. I think the beach was two square miles. There was a large digital clock that would sometimes show the temperature, and at the time, it showed 22 C which is about 71 F. Too cold for any serious swimming.

I took another bus to the Stanley Market. Stanley Market is a single-level mall, with probably two hundred independent vendors, selling clothes, electronics, jewelry, and so much more. If you look on Google Maps, and look up Stanley Market, you can use the Street View mode, to look inside the market (faces are blocked). I bought a silk handkerchief with a chain-link pattern. Most of the staff spoke English well enough. After Stanley Market, I went to the Wellcome [sic] grocery store at 88 Stanley Village Road to buy some lunch items. I remember buying a jar of vegemite, that yeasty and salty spread. And a box of bag tea. One thing that caught my eye, the Hong Kong authorities made a poster against SARS, with a warning in traditional Chinese and English, to people not to spit in public, but rather expectorate into some tissue, or face a HK$ 5,000 fine, approx US $ 600.00. SARS is no joke.

I found a bus line that went directly from Stanley Market to Aberdeen, passing by the Repulse Bay tower that had the gap. The ride took about twenty minutes and cost maybe $ 1.50 on the Octopus card. The bus went past Sham Wan. Aberdeen has many high-rise apartments, is more built up than Stanley Village. I walked along the Aberdeen Promenade, and when walking back to the bus stop for Kennedy Town, I saw a bird in a cage but no human was around to attend to it. Since my visit in 2003, there was a subway line opened in 2016 called the South Island line, that connects Admiralty to Aberdeen via Wong Chuk Hang and Ocean Park.

After Aberdeen, I took a bus to Ngau Tao Kok northeast of Kowloon, I think the bus fare was $ 2.50 including the fee for using an underground tunnel. Then I would start my subway adventure as far as Tseung Kwan O at Junk Bay. I boarded the Kwun Tong Line at Ngau Tao Kok for Tiu Keng Leng and further along to Tseung Kwan O with its eponymous line. At Tseung Kwan O I explored around for a few minutes, it was about as built up as Aberdeen but did not have any farther MRT extension to Po Lam or LOHAS park until about 2009. At Tseung Kwan O, I called back to the USA on a payphone. I had to ask for change as the phones accepted only HK$1 coins and I was out at the time. I took then the Tseung Kwan O line to North Point to connect to the Island Line for Central/Hong Kong. I wanted then to go to Tung Chung on Lantau Island. MTR stations on the Island Line at the time, did not have protective doors. Also on some of the Tsuen Wan line stations between Sham Shui Po to Lai King, there were also no such doors. Some stations however did, but only those that were underground.

Although Central and Hong Kong were physically in the same location on Hong Kong Island, they were classified as two separate subway stations, mainly for the distance that one has to walk between the two. There are two entry points for Hong Kong station, one for the Tung Chung line, and one for the Airport Express line that does not stop except at Tsing Yi. My Octopus card did not include the ride for the airport except a one-way ride, and I did not want to use it that day. My only other option was to use the slightly slower Tung Chung line. The train did not stop at the time, at Sunny Bay or Nam Cheong. It stopped at Kowloon, Olympic, Lai King, Tsing Yi and Tung Chung. Between Tsing Yi and Tung Chung, the train went very fast, right next to the Airport Express tracks. I exited the train at Tung Chung, and was hungry. I found some sandwich store at Skyline Gateway. After eating, I went to the Citygate outlets to buy more bag tea. The Wellcome store that I visited, had a "wet market" in the basement, where you could buy fresh fish and seafood. I was tempted to buy some but didn't. I bought a few magazines in traditional Chinese and I have some of them still today. After shopping, I took the Tung Chung subway line to Tsing Yi, where I wanted to try to take the Airport Express back to Hong Kong station but there was only an exit for Hong Kong and entry to the airport but no entry to the Hong Kong station. I strolled the mall for a half hour before taking the Tung Chung line to Lai King, and I took the Tsuen Wan line to Mong Kok, right in the middle of Kowloon. Kowloon, particularly along Nathan Road, is where the most lighted signs can be seen. I think the time was 7 PM and the sun had set. Nathan Road was very busy with people.

After Kowloon, I wanted to see how close to Sheung Shui I could get. You can't go to Lo Wu without a visa for the PRC, so Sheung Shui is the closest. I took the Kwun Tong line from Mong Kok to Kowloon Tong to board the East Rail line. In 2003, the East Rail line was not part of the MTR subway and thus the fare was not included and had to be deducted from the Octopus card. If you travel in first class, the fare is about US $10. On the East Rail line, I decided not to go any farther than the University station. It was about five stations prior to arriving at the PRC border. I spent about fifteen minutes around the University station before taking the East Rail line back to Hong Kong Island with the Kwun Tong, Tsuen Wan and Island lines.

After the Island line train reached Sheung Wan, that was the last of the subway rides. I took the trolley along Des Voeux road to Hill Road and bought some curry buns and Sprite and ate them at the hotel. I had to pack up for the next leg of the journey. It was short and I wished I could stay longer.

[happlet]

One of my favourite workplaces

[goodpix2021]

Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. It is called Lascars Row also known as Cat Street. It is now a shopping street after having a reputation for all sorts things. For instance, a lascar is a sailor. They came here to visit their favorite girls for a half hour or so. Most of the stuff for sale on the street is tourist stuff. Go inside the stores to see the good art, jewelry, and antiques.

[greedyapron]

8/8/2023 - Dinner 2

Dragon State Kitchen Restaurant, Sheung Wan

Mixed suckling pig rice with char siew and "intestines" (HKD 68)

Turns out the intestines are just sausages ):. Char siew is pretty decent too but the suckling pig had barely any meat. It's just skin and fats. Skin was still SUPER crispy though. Comes with milk tea.

While the cuts weren't great, I'm still glad I went there to try out some stuff.

[hkstreetart]

[you-are-beautiful-yeah]

Sheung Wan Hotel, Hong Kong, by Thomas Heatherwick

[dukeness01]

Sheung Wan Hotel, Hong Kong, by Thomas Heatherwick

[lettersoftherainbow]

Sheung Wan Hotel, Hong Kong, by Thomas Heatherwick

[hylasims]

Sheung Wan Hotel, Hong Kong, by Thomas Heatherwick

[panicinthestudio]

Hong Kong hit by widespread flooding and landslides as heavy rain paralyses city, September 8th, 2023

Hong Kong was hit by widespread flooding and landslides as heavy rain paralysed the city. The Observatory recorded the highest one-hour rainfall since records began in 1884. Vid: Patrick Lamoine/Libby Hogan/AFP.

Hong Kong hit with heaviest rainfall since records began 139 years ago, September 7, 2023

Hong Kong reported 158.1mm of rainfall in the space of an hour, the highest since records began in 1884. Local authorities said various districts had been flooded and emergency services were conducting rescue operations. Members of the public were instructed to stay in a safe place. The Guardian

Further reading:

HKFP: At least 2 dead after Hong Kong battered by record rainfall, severe flooding, September 8, 2023

Reuters: Hong Kong, Shenzhen deluged by heaviest rain on record, September 8, 2023

[e--u--r--o--p--a]

Sheung Wan Hotel, Hong Kong, by Thomas Heatherwick

[greenbagjosh]

Day 1 - 9 November 2003 - Flight to Hong Kong from SFO terminal "A"

Sunday 9 November 2003

Konnichiwa, Ni Hao and Ola!

Today marks fifteen years since my visit to East Asia, particularly the Hong Kong and Macau special administrative regions of China, plus a partial day at Tokyo Narita airport. Actually I would not stop at Narita until Thursday 13th November 2003. This would be the first time in my adult life, and so far it is the only time, that I would cross the international date line. You may have heard in the news about the Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau bridge that was opened recently. When I visited in November 2003, this was not even an idea (at least to most US citizens) that this could be built. Without crossing into the PRC, the only way to go between Hong Kong and Macau, was by boat.

I would like to break up my visit into four parts as there is so much to tell.

- 9th to 10th SFO to HKG nonstop, coach from Chek Lap Kok airport to hotel via Kowloon, 7 Eleven at Queen's Road West near Hill Road (Shek Tong Tsui district).

- 11th Breakfast at hotel, Hong Kong to Macau ferry, lunch on Coloane, St Paul cathedral, and ferry back to Hong Kong, with a journey on the MTR subway and tramway back to the hotel.

- 12th Breakfast at McDonald's, bus to Central, Repulse Bay, Stanley Market and Aberdeen, MTR to Sheung Kwan O, Tung Chung and Kowloon

- 13th Minibus to HKG airport, flight to Narita, afternoon and "beef bowl udon", flight to SFO, arrival the "same day"

Let's start with why I went to Hong Kong and Macau and back via Narita. Instead of my usual journey to Europe as I did in August of that year, I was suggested to give Hong Kong a try, and not worry that I speak very little Mandarin or Cantonese. United Airlines at the time, had a special package of roundtrip airfare to Hong Kong, three day's accommodations and offers of touristic interest for a good price. I had to renew my passport from 1994 as it would expire in any case.

Sunday 9th November was my flight, nonstop from San Francisco Terminal A to Hong Kong. It was in a Boeing 747 and in the economy class when economy class at least had decent legroom. Before the flight, I wanted to try some "congee" with shrimp. Congee is a savory rice porridge, about the same consistency as an average bowl of Quaker Oats. A little soy sauce can give it a nice flavor.

I think the flight departed around 1:10 PM Pacific. It would not arrive in Hong Kong until at least 8 PM the next day (Monday 10th November), so that makes the flight about 15 hours long, not quite as long as a flight from the US west coast to Auckland, New Zealand. On the plane, you cannot automatically perceive crossing the international date line. At the time, the 747 did not have individually controlled entertainment in economy class as a 777 would, it was all centralized, I have no idea about the situation in business or the still-existent first class. I remember watching four films in total, including "Whale Rider" from New Zealand, I remember distinctly that traditional Chinese subtitles were on-screen for that film. During the flight there was a snack and then supper. At some times, the flight attendants would serve Chinese tea, where you would not add sugar or anything else, just tea leaves and hot water.

It seemed like for the most part, the day went on "forever", until the plane approached Japanese airspace - and then the 9th turned into the 10th, kind of like it's 4:30 PM on the 9th, and then suddenly it's 4:31 PM on the 10th, that's what crossing the international date line westward sort of feels like. The sun was getting low, and the plane made a southwest turn, to just touch the eastern Chinese coastline for the next two hours. As the plane approached Hong Kong, the sun set and the sky was getting dimmer. The plane touched down about 7:30 PM. Everyone alighted the plane to be processed by Hong Kong SAR customs.

If you remember Autumn 2003, you might remember the SARS epidemic. SARS was defined as "severe acute respiratory syndrome". The epicenter was Hong Kong, and Macau also was taking precautions to minize the effects. At passport control, you had to make a declaration that you had to state your health condition, namely stating any health symptoms if any, in addition, there were body temperature sensors, to make sure that travellers did not have a fever. The Hong Kong entry passport stamp allowed US Citizens a visa-free stay of 90 days, I think Macau it was down to 30 days. After passport control, I had to go to the baggage claim and meet the tour bus that was booked in addition to my hotel stay. While the tour bus had not yet arrived, I went to the MTR sales booth to buy a subway pass. It was called the "Octopus Card", and allowed three days of unlimited subway travel, plus a HK $200 stored value for bus and trolley rides. It even could be recharged at the local 7 Eleven stores for cash. I withdrew about US $ 100.00 to start, and I think the rate was around US 1= 8.20 HK. The Macau Pataca, I would find out, would be at par with the Hong Kong dollar, and local banks would be reluctant to exchange Hong Kong dollars for Patacas. More on that in the following chapter.

The bus came around 8:30 PM and the bus dispatcher had to tally up who was staying in Kowloon and who was staying in Hong Kong Island. The bus drove along Route 8 which passed through Tsing Yi, Disneyland Hong Kong, Tsing Yi and ended up in Kowloon. The bus dropped a few people off somewhere along Nathan Road or some side street closeby. Then the bus went under Kowloon Bay in tunnel to Queen's Road West, though the bus made a stop after leaving the tunnel. I did not arrive at my hotel until at least 9:30 PM. I was staying at the Novotel in the Sai Wan district, which currently now is the Hotel Jen. There was a McDonald's and a 7 Eleven store close by. For maybe $ 6 US, I bought a couple of curry buns (pulled chicken or pork) and a can of Sprite and a bottle of Lucozade. And I topped up my Octopus Card for bus fare if needed later.

My room was on the 22nd floor, and I think the outdoor pool was on the 25th floor. My room did not have the best view but it was okay. I had a room looking at the ramp of Hill Road, leading to Connaught Road. The room had a remote control to control the radio, TV, alarm clock, and many things imaginable. The bathroom was pretty much similar to those I knew in the US, Canada and Europe. Electricity was the same as in the UK, namely the "G" type plug. I found the next day that Macau also uses the "G" plug. I did not watch TV but I had my Aiwa HS JS 479 and could listen to and record the local stations, most of them were in Cantonese, there was also the BBC World Service in English.

I think I went to bed about 11 PM after enjoying my curry bun and Sprite. The bed was firmer than most that I remembered, was not too bad. Somehow or other, I thought, if the hotel has a free shuttle to the Hong Kong-Macau ferry terminal, why not go? I did not plan to visit Macau but thought, as long as I am in that part of the world, there was no better time to go. Looking back 15 years on, I am glad I did.

So that was all for the 9th and the 10th November 2003. Next chapter, ferry ride to Macau, and views of its Portuguese past.

Thank you and good night!

謝謝，晚安！! (Xièxiè, wan'an!)

Obrigado e boa noite!

ありがとう、おやすみなさい! (Arigato, oyasuminasai!)

[happlet]

Graffiti and street art in Hong Kong