#so many women here have short haircuts (like proper mens haircuts) and wear button ups

[echidnana]

also there are so many butches here it's wild

[vinceaddams]

What are your thoughts on how the 18th century is typically portrayed on screen?

The whole century, or just the clothing? I’ll assume you mean mostly the men’s clothing, since that’s what I focus on. (And Frock Flicks has a ton of criticism written up about the women’s clothing, which I don’t know as much about anyways.)

I have a long list of complaints about the majority of 18th century men’s movie costumes, mostly from screenshots I’ve seen because I haven’t actually watched many movies set in the 18th century… (I keep meaning to, but I just keep rewatching stuff I’ve already seen so I can do hand sewing at the same time.)

Bad Things Movie Costumes Frequently Do:

They cut the coats really badly. Like, kind of cut like a modern suit but altered to look kind of 18th century, and there’s no need for it! There are patterns out there! It wouldn’t cost the studios or costume houses any more to cut the coats correctly! Modern coat sleeves and shoulders look awful on coats that should have a nice tight fitted sleeve. And modern tailoring & padding looks bad too. No shoulder pads!! They don’t exist yet, stop putting them in!!! Sometimes they cut them less badly, but they still usually get the front edge wrong. Too many of them are too narrow across the chest, and don’t curve right.

They button the waistcoat all the way up when there’s no reason to! For most of the century it was fashionable to wear some portion of the top unbuttoned so the shirt ruffles could peek out. (In fact, my 1730′s suit is best worn with only 3 buttons done up at the waist) Here’s an example from the 1730′s, and one from the 50′s, and one from the 60′s. Yes there are also plenty of portraits with the waistcoat buttoned up, but if you’re dressed fancy and it’s not cold or windy then let some shirt peek out!

Which is possibly why they keep getting the neckwear wrong. Stacked up ruffly “jabots” are not 18th century! They’re a thing that started in 19th century women’s wear. 18th century men wore stocks (the fanciest option for neckwear, starting in the 1720′s I think), or neck cloths (Somewhat less fancy), or printed handkerchiefs (working class). Horrible lace bibs are a plague upon 18th century movie costumes.

Just totally ignoring hairstyles. Too often they just give them a short modern haircut, or long hair worn down, or a horrendous shiny white wig, or some sort of mullet-y style where they made a half-assed effort but didn’t actually look at reference pictures. And I hardly ever see powder! Where’s the powder? The combination of powder and pomatum is what lets you sculpt the hair into those styles, and it also gives it that matte grey look, which is why the shiny wigs look so wrong. Wigs were popular, but after the full bottomed curly wigs went out of style in the early 18th century, a lot of guys didn’t wear wigs, and had their actual hair styled. If I can do it myself at home and have it look very nice, then why can’t film studios? You don’t even need to buy special hair powder, corn starch works just fine!

Put them in dainty little shoes and silk stockings you cowards! Way too often they have the male characters wearing riding boots all the time, even though riding boots aren’t appropriate for most scenes. They’re for riding and hunting and outdoorsy things! Not for dancing or important social visits or relaxing at home!

Facial hair is super unfashionable for the entire 18th century. Beards in 18th century movies just look wrong, and there’s no excuse for unshaven scruff on a fancy gentleman character.

Bad terrible wrong shirts. It’s hard to see them a lot of the time, because they’re hidden under the rest of the suit, but a proper 18th century shirt is made entirely of squares and rectangles of linen. No buttons anywhere but the cuffs & collar, no yoke, and no circular ruffles!

Overuse of shiny metal buttons. This one is a tad more nitpicky, and sometimes it’s probably done because it’s the cheaper option, but 18th century menswear didn’t feature a whole lot of metal buttons. There were metal buttons, but the vast majority of 18th century menswear had cloth covered or thread wrapped buttons. In a lot of portraits and on extant garments, especially in the early 18th century, it looks like the buttons are metal but they’re actually wrapped in metallic thread.

Cheap nylon lace is always going to look like cheap nylon lace, and if you can’t afford good quality lace then some stiff sheer cotton with wee little rolled hems is always the better option.

That’s all the main complaints I can think of right now. I understand that budget constraints are a thing, but the majority of these could be solved by actually looking at reference pictures and tossing modern ideals of manliness out the window. Hiring people who know stuff about the period and are interested in it would also be a good idea.

I have seen good costumes and hair! Mostly screenshots from things I keep meaning to watch but haven’t. Most often they’ll get some things right and some things wrong. For example, The Scandalous Lady W (which is one of the few I have seen!) has mostly well cut suits, but the sleeves on those military uniforms look horribly loose and modern. (Presumably they borrowed them from somewhere else for budget reasons?) The waistcoats are lovely, but they buttoned them all up too high. And there’s some great hair, and some awful hair.

Movies are weird and I don’t know how such a mixture of accurate and inaccurate happens!

[rodrigohyde]

Dress Your Body Type: Large

Click here to follow AskMen Fashion on Twitter. After adopting a healthy diet and getting plenty of exercise, knowing your body type is one of the most important factors in making the most of your appearance. That's because learning to work with what you have enables you to capitalize on your strong points and minimize flaws. This applies strongly to large men.

Large body types vary widely. You may be tall with a massive frame or short and heavyset. Whether you're extremely fit and muscular or you haven't hit the gym in years, a large body type means that you're of above average weight or size. If you fall into the latter category, you'll also be quite wide around your torso.

For the guy with the large physique who seeks to up his fashion game, we're happy to run you through the basics of dressing a large body type — everything from how your clothes should fit to the grooming habits you should adopt. In addition, we've also created a list of best retailers to shop at, plus a checklist that you can bring on your next shopping trip, so that our advice will never be forgotten.

Related: Dress for Your Body Type: Tall

The Guide: Dress Your Body Type

Fit

One of the most important principles to follow when dressing any body type is to buy clothes that fit properly. This rule is particularly important if you are on the larger side. To show your body in its best light, select clothing that skims over your frame, as it will smooth out your physique. To further flatter your body and balance out your proportions, choose tops, blazers and outerwear with slightly structured shoulders, as these will give you an authoritative air and will direct attention to your face. Take of the following factors into account as well when selecting specific clothing.

Blazers: Your blazers should be a little longer in order to provide more coverage of your posterior. Go for single-breasted blazers in thinner fabrics, which help disguise love handles and conceal a belly. Just make sure your blazers have either a single vent or no vent, as double-vented blazers call more attention to the size of your backside. Fill your dressy wardrobe instead with three-button blazers, which are a style that actually looks best on larger guys.

Bottoms: It’s best to opt for jeans and trousers with a forgiving, relaxed fit rather than straight alternatives. Pay attention to your hemlines, as well, and ask your tailor to let your pants fall close to the end of your heel to give the illusion of longer, leaner legs.

Shoes: If you can couple proper posture with a shoe that has a half-inch to one-inch heel, you'll seem even slimmer.

Turtlenecks: Wearing them will make your neck disappear, so refrain from them in general.

Unflattering styles: A few garments large men should avoid altogether include bulky garments, pleated pants, bulky wool sweaters and puffer vests.

The most common mistake men with large body types make is thinking that baggy clothes will disguise excess pounds. Don't fall into this trap. Oversize clothing has the opposite effect, actually adding weight to a heavy frame. Another common mistake is donning tight clothing in the hope that it'll pull flesh in, when in fact, it'll show every bulge. To figure out if a garment is too tight on you, take notice if fabric pulls anywhere when you put it on. If it does, you'll know you need to size up.

Colors and Patterns

The color palette and pattern scheme of the garments in your wardrobe deserves special attention if your body type is large. Generally, you'll want to stick to a lot of dark colors, like dark grays, browns, navy, and black, as these shades visually reduce a larger body frame. Color coordination in your ensembles is also important. Dark-colored clothing should be worn over the areas of your body that protrude the most, such as your midsection or rear, for example. The hues and shades in your outfits should all come from the same color family , as too many contrasting shades will seem to cut you in half, emphasizing a large middle and making your legs seem shorter. In regard to patterns, contrary to popular wisdom, new research suggests that horizontal stripes might actually be more slimming than vertical stripes.

Accessories

Finally, use accessories and cologne to give your ensembles a personal twist or to make a style statement. Invest in a great watch because size has absolutely nothing to do with style in the accessories department. A cologne that mixes well with your body chemistry is also another must-have, as women are very receptive to smell.

Purge your Closet

To purge your wardrobe of anything that doesn't make you look like a million bucks, begin by tossing anything with a loud, large pattern, as these pieces only emphasize your heavyset frame. The same goes for attention-grabbing, brightly-colored clothing. Light-colored bottoms are also a big no-no for large men, so get rid of those as well .

Extra Tips

Remember that anything that makes you look taller will also help you seem thinner. Standing up straight, for example, can instantly make you look as though you've dropped a few pounds. You'll also come across as being more confident, which is a trait that's attractive in any man, no matter what his size.

Good grooming habits are another thing that will improve your appearance, regardless of your size. Find a barber who is able to work with your face shape and give you a haircut that makes your jawline appear more pronounced and puts the focus on your eyes. At home, try parting your hair off-center to help slenderize your face. When it comes to facial hair, opt for a clean-shaven look or keep your beard cropped close to your face.

Lastly, it's a smart idea to spend a bit of time online seeking out e-tailors that carry high-quality clothing in XL+ sizes or specialize in dressing larger men.

The Stores: Shopping For Large Men Clothing

RRL by Ralph Lauren

Levi's

When in doubt, always research the top names in fashion to see if they offer a collection that suits for your frame and style. Ralph Lauren doesn’t discriminate against the big and tall, having launched its own line dubbed RRL, which caters to men with larger physiques. The brand promotes garb that falls between dapper and rugged with a unique selection to choose from that includes military jackets, woven button-ups and wool cardigan sweaters just to name a few. Find out more at RalphLauren.com

Bonobos

Bonobos

Bonobos just launched its Extended Sizes collection, which features brand-new designs for plus-sized men. Multiple items on the site come available in a variety of fits and sizes. Basic t-shirts go up to 4XL and pants up to size 53. The blazers and dress shirts are also designed to provide better comfort without compromising style. Hassle-free shipping and returns should have you feeling good right now. Find out more at Bonobos.com

Marks & Spencer

Marks & Spencer

Known for their expert tailoring, M&S has expanded its clothing business by accommodating larger sizes in different cuts and sizes. This includes tops sized at XXXXL and pants measured at extra-long lengths. Not to mention it’s offering over 150 suits in four different fits. In the case you ever need a suit altered for enhanced fit, you can also get it done at one of its 70 locations. Find out more at Marksandspencer.com

Levi’s

Levi's

Denim jeans are essential for any wardrobe. Finding a good-fitting pair requires a lot of hands-on testing, but for the larger guy, that’s not a luxury they’re afforded due to restricted sizing. Luckily, Levi’s has increased the sizing options for its emblematic 501 jeans. Shoppers can now invest in Athletic, Comfort, Relaxed or Straight Leg fits that measure up to a 58” waist and 38” leg. You would be hard-pressed to find another jeans manufacturer providing this much versatility. Find out more at Levi.com

H&M

H&M

For casual and urban wear on the cheap, H&M remains a solid option. Heavy-set fellers who want to ball out can choose from over 100 items – shirts sized as high as XXL and jeans at a 44” waist. You can find much of its extended sizes collection discounted, allowing you to build out ensembles or snatch multiple pieces to pair with your current wardrobe. Find out more at HM.com

Pros And Cons: Dressing a Tall Body

Nearly every body type has its style challenges. If yours is large, one con is that dressing your body to its best advantage means you'll be quite limited in terms of the colours and patterns you can get away with wearing. You also won't be able to be as experimental with fashion trends as leaner men, and simply finding trendy clothes to suit your body type can be difficult. On the plus side, retailers and e-tailors are increasingly stocking stylish clothes in larger sizes, so it is becoming easier than ever before to find nice clothing at any size. What's more, classic, timeless pieces always look good on you, lending a distinguished appearance.

Checklist: Wardrobe Staples

Single-breasted blazers

Three-button suit/blazer

Blazers with a single vent or no vent

Flat-front pants

Great cologne

V-neck T-shirts and sweaters

Dark colors

A posh-looking watch

Dressy knee-length coat

Sweaters in thin fabrics

Dress shoes with a slight heel

Horizontally-striped shirts

Dark-rinse relaxed-fit jeans

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Dress for Your Body Type: Short Dress for Your Body Type: Skinny Dress for Your Body Type: Tall

from Style channel http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_600/603_dress-your-body-type-large.html