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carlzbaron · 1 year

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The Fundamentals of Drill Bits

You've probably heard of drill bits, but do you know what makes them so important? Drill bits are essential tools for making holes in different materials and come in all shapes and sizes. They typically consist of a steel shaft with sharp cutting edges that bore through surfaces like wood or metal. The design elements found in the various types help to determine their performance when drilling into the material. These include flute shape, point angle, web thickness, helix angles, and shank type, among others. Depending upon the project at hand, there's an appropriate bit to ensure clean cuts each time! Understanding how they work will give you insight into selecting the best option available, ensuring success every single time!

Drill Bit Material

You want a drill bit that is up to the job and durable enough to last, so you must know what type of material they're made from. Drill bits come in many different materials, such as tungsten carbide, high-speed steel (HSS), cobalt steel alloys, solid carbide, or diamond-grit alloy. Each has its own properties, which make them best when used for specific functions. Solid carbide is the most expensive of the drill bit materials, but it's also the most durable. It can be used for drilling into harder materials such as stainless steel and titanium. Tungsten carbide mills can drill through hardened steels like cast iron without dulling quickly. It's also great for cutting plastic and fiberglass but cannot be sharpened once worn down due to its brittleness. High-speed steel is often seen on general-purpose twist drills because these have stronger wear resistance than standard carbon steels, allowing for faster cutting speeds with a longer lifespan compared with other drilling metals while remaining cost-effective too.

Types of Drill Bits

A twist bit's one of the most basic and common types used for general-purpose drilling in wood or metal, either straight holes or at an angle. Spade-style bits are specifically designed to cut through tough materials like plastic laminates, tile, brick, and cement boards. They come in standard sizes ranging from 1/4" up to 6". The brad point bit has a sharp center tip which makes it ideal for creating accurate angled cuts while minimizing splintering when used on softer woods such as pine and spruce. Forstner drill bits have a thick cross-sectional design making them perfect drills for producing flat-bottomed countersinks in any material, including hardwoods! Use them whenever accuracy is essential but be sure not to overwork the lumber: Too much stress can cause splitting along pre-drilled lines!

Finally, there are metric-style (aka imperial) drill bits. These measure millimeters instead of fractions, allowing increased precision against standardized project measurements throughout different countries worldwide. Drill bits are essential tools for anyone tackling a DIY project. They come in numerous shapes and sizes, so choosing the right one for your job can be tricky. The good news is that all drill bit materials offer long-lasting results, as well as improved performance on common projects such as drilling into wood or metal. Drill bits are essential tools for any handyman, and cutting tools distributors like Suncoast Precision Tools, has you covered. Our selection of drill bits is designed with the highest quality standards to provide maximum performance in specific applications. Whether it's drilling through wood or masonry, our variety of shapes, sizes, and types will have you completing projects like a professional craftsman. With plenty of cutting edges to choose from, including twist drills, flat-bottom drills, builder's bobs, and more - along with their various coating finishes such as black oxide finish - they ensure your tasks get done right!

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onlinecarbide · 2 years

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Spot Drills vs. Center Drills

One of the common queries on the web (related to machining, at least) is “What is the difference between a spot drill and a center drill?”

Since these types of drills are used for similar applications (but not the same) some explanation is warranted.

Let’s take a look at these two different types of drills.

What Is a Spot Drill? A spot drill has effectively one unique purpose for which it is specifically designed: spotting (also known as spot drilling).

Spotting or spot drilling is the practice of creating a precise, accurate bore spot to serve as a “guide” for the drills and mills subsequently used in metalworking.

Unlike drill bits used on wood (and some other materials) the drills used in metalworking do not have sharp tips that bite into the workpiece. This can cause them to deflect or walk over the workpiece when applied to it, or worse, to break.

Spotting creates a depression in the workpiece that helps minimize these issues. These stubby little drills are perfect for this application, and this application only (Some enterprising operators might also find spot drills useful for chamfering or countersinking, but others recommend against it).

What Is a Center Drill? (and What Is It Used for?) Center drills, which are also known as combined drills, generally have a thick shank, a narrow pilot point, and a broad countersink. These specialized bits are used to center holes for future machining applications. Specifically, center drills are properly used to create a seating area for the live center of a lathe or cylindrical grinder.

Center drills typically feature countersink angles of either 60°, 82°, or 90°, which are suitable for different applications. When the pilot drill encounters the workpiece, it serves as a guide for the countersink which widens the hole at the appropriate angle.

This creates a “live center” which is used when a workpiece needs support from two sides, such as on a lathe. The live center’s angle and diameter must match the lathe center to which it is paired.

Center drills should not be used for spotting applications because center drills’ pilot tips typically have narrower point angles than jobber drills that are used in subsequent machining operations. This narrower angle can cause other drill bits to snap when their tips contact the workpiece; using center drills as spot drills can also result in a lower-quality finished workpiece even if tool life is not adversely affected.

Where Can You Get Solid-Carbide Spot Drills? Ultimately, it is not advisable to use a spot drill for anything but spotting, nor is it wise to use a center drill for spotting. These specialized cutting implements should be reserved for the purposes for which they are designed.

Either way, if you’re looking for either spot or center drills, Online Carbide carries American-made, solid-carbide options for both, in addition to thread mills, standard and variable end mills, chamfer mills, stub drills, and jobber drills.

Take a look through their collection of carbide drills and get in touch with them at [email protected] if you have any questions.

#Spot Drills

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somedayonbroadway · 4 years

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Hi! If you don’t mind- Could you please do the scene in which Crutchie meets all of Jack’s friends in the BH6 AU? Thank you!

Big Hero 6 AU

Ummmm yes because it’s honestly one of the best scenes.

Find the car chase scene here, and Jack’s video scene here!

I love this AU

“What are we doing at your nerd school?” To say Crutchie was exasperated was an understatement. He followed closely behind his brother anyway, knowing he wouldn’t be able to get anywhere quick enough without Jack’s bike at that point.

Jack didn’t even turn back to him as they made their way through the halls. He seemed happy that Crutchie was irritated. The boy couldn’t necessarily blame him, after all he’d just gotten the young man arrested. “Gotta grab somethin’, sunshine. Relax, would ya?” the young man shot back at him. “‘Sides, ya ain’t eva’ seen my lab.” That was when Jack turned to smirk at him.

The boy rolled his eyes as he followed his brother to two large doors. He barely caught a glimpse of the place before he already wanted to make fun of it. “Oh great. I get ya see the nerd lab—“

“Heads up!”

Crutchie stumbled back at the words, losing sight of his brother completely as someone zoomed past him on a black bike that had yellow detailing all over it.

His gaze was full with wonder as he followed the thing over to a station beside the door. It pulled to a stop dramatically and a boy climbed off of it, pulling off his black helmet, revealing messy blond curls and insanely blue eyes. The guy wore black fingerless gloves and a leather jacket scrunched up at the arms. Crutchie watched him sigh as he wrote something down on a piece of paper, shaking his head as he pulled one of the wheels off of the bike and began to walk away, tossing it back and letting it automatically reattach to the bike.

The boy looked around him.

His eyes widened.

This place was amazing.

Everywhere he looked people were working on things that he’d never seen before. Science completely surrounded him and he couldn’t help the anxiety that sputtered up in his chest.

Before he could stop himself, he wandered over to that bike, waving his hand over the wheels. “Whoa… electro-mag suspension?”

“Who’re you?”

The voice startled him enough to whirl around and find the boy that had almost just run him over staring back at him. “I’m—“

“Racer, this is my little brother,” Jack introduced, sliding up behind the other student, wrapping an arm around his shoulders. “Charlie, this is Race.”

Race looked him up and down, popping a bubble with the gum that was in his mouth. Jack patted him on the shoulder. And Race smirked. “Welcome ta the nerd lab,” he drawled, slipping out of Jack’s embrace and walking to his bike.

A nervous laugh escaped Charlie who had no idea what to say to that. He scratched awkwardly at the back of his neck. “Uh… yeah…” He watched Race grab onto the back wheel of his bike. “I’ve never seen electro-mag suspension on a bike before!” It was impossible to keep the excitement out of his voice.

Race spun the wheel, as if to show how quick it was moving. “Zero resistance, faster bike,” he explained simply, grabbing the thing and pulling it from the bike. “But not fast enough.” And with that, he tossed the thing like a frisbee into a container full of wheels that were just more prototypes of it. “Yet,” he added, turning to get back to his work space.

Jack gave him a quick high five and Crutchie allowed himself to walk further into the room, only stopping in front of another piece of equipment he didn’t recognize before a voice stopped him. “Whoa, whoa, whoa! Don’t move! Get behind the line!”

Charlie did so immediately. His back hit Jack’s chest. “Hey, Spottie! This is my brother, Charlie,” he introduced again, holding the kid by the shoulders.

Spot smirked, stripping off a zip up hoodie to reveal big, muscly arms. “Alright, Charlie. Prepare ta be amazed,” he stated smugly, grabbing an apple from the desk behind it and throwing it into mid air. It was immediately sliced into paper thin pieces.

Charlie caught one of them as Spot pulled a lever beside them, revealing bright green lasers shining from one beam to the next. The boy grinned. “Whoa… laser-induced plasma?”

“Oh yeah,” Spot grinned, more to himself than to the boy. “With a little magnetic confinement for ultra-precision,” he added, excited at his own work. He turned around to grab something on the desk behind him.

The boy glanced over at it before walking over to the young man. “How do you find anythin’ in this mess?” There were about a hundred tools on the table in an order that looked random to the boy. But to Charlie, it just looked chaotic.

“I have a system,” Spot insisted, glaring at Jack who was clearly about to tease him. “There’s a place for Everythin’ and everythin’ in its place—“

Just as he was about to finish speaking, someone zoomed by on rollerblades. “Need this!” Race shouted, grabbing a tool off the counter before quickly making his get away, sticking his tongue out at Spot who’s mouth hung open as he stood to chase after the boy.

“Racer, I’ll kill you! This is anarchy! Society has rules!” he cried, running after the younger man.

“Excuse me! Comin’ through!” Jack turned immediately to catch a girl with a red messy bun rushing through the lab with a very big ball pushed in front of her. She paused when she saw them, grabbing Jack’s face in her hand and giving him a long kiss. Crutchie could hear the music flooding out through her earbuds. Jack just laughed into the kiss even as the boy stood shocked. When she turned to him she froze for a moment before a giant grin took over her face. “Oh my gosh! You must be Charlie!” she yelled over her own music. “I’ve heard so much about you!”

When she pushed the ball over to where she wanted it she turned back to the brothers. Crutchie looked up at his brother who had a small blush creeping up his neck as he watched the girl.

“Perfect timing!” she squealed, pulling her earbuds out.

Charlie turned back with wide eyes when he saw what the ball was. “That’s a whole lot of tungsten carbide,” he observed.

“Four hundred pounds of it!” the woman corrected, grabbing his wrist and pulling him forward, careful to go at a pace he could keep up with. “Come here, come here, come here! You’ll love this!” There was an entire chemist set up on the counter beside them. She began to twist some knobs and squeeze some bottles. “A dash of perchloric acid, a smidge of cobalt, a hint of hydrogen peroxide.” She pulled out a blowtorch, startling the kid a bit. “Super-heated to 500 Kelvin, and…” The girl took the bottle that the chemicals had mixed into, spraying it onto the large ball. Turning to pull a lever, the pink spray suctioned to the ball, making it one solid color. “Ta-da!” She grinned. “It’s pretty great, huh?”

“It’s so… pink,” Charlie agreed, not understanding what the big deal was.

Jack was hanging on her every word.

“Here’s the best part!” she sang, reaching over to touch the thing only to have it explode all around the room.

Crutchie’s grin returned immediately. “Whoa…”

“I know right?!” the girl laughed, now covered in pink. “Chemical metal embrittlement!”

Jack laughed. “Not bad, babe,” he said proudly, reaching to wrap an arm around her waist. “Crutchie, this is Katherine. Around here we call her Ace.”

Crutchie’s eyebrows knit together. “Ace? Race? Spottie?”

“Um, the name’s Spot. Not ‘Spottie’,” Spot interrupted from somewhere behind him. “It’s cause I make sure these idiots don’t hurt themselves, not cause I’m a puppy.”

Jack just scoffed. “Albert is the one who gives out the nicknames,” he smiled, pressing a kiss to Katherine’s cheek.

“Who’s Albert?”

“This guy!” someone growled from beside him. Crutchie turned to meet the person, only to jump back when he found it to be a dragon. “Oh, don’t be alarmed!” The mouth was opened up to reveal a normal guy, trying to somehow unveil himself from the costume. “It’s just a suit. This is not my real face and body,” Albert assured, pulling a hand out for Crutchie to shake. “The name’s Al. School mascot by day, but by night…” he pulled the suit back on, posing in it and breathing like Charlie had to assume a dragon might. And then Albert reappeared. “I am also the school mascot,” he grinned.

Charlie giggled at that. “So what’s your major?”

“Oh, I am unfortunately not a student. I am here to get Ace to develop a formula that can turn me into a fire-breathing lizard at will,” he said, staring off into the distance as he voice got low and mysterious. Then he straightened back up and glared at the girl who was still in Jack’s arms. “But she says that ‘ain’t science’,” he repeated, sticking a tongue out at her.

“It’s really not,” she insisted.

“Oh, well then I guess the shrink ray I asked Spot for ain’t science either,” he shot back sarcastically, making the boy laugh.

Spot walked up to them with Race thrown over his shoulder, struggling and kicking. “Uh, no.”

“Well what about my invisible sandwich?”

Crutchie could only grin at these people. His brother’s friends.

And Jack watched him for a moment, seeing lights sparking in his eyes.

He grinned.

His plan was working.

Hope you liked it!

#newsies #newsies musical #newsies live #newsies au #newsies rp #big hero 6 #bh6 #jack kelly #crutch morris #racetrack higgins #katherine plumber #spot conlon #much love #newsies fanfiction #anonymous #anon #anon response #albert dasilva

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ireallyreallyloveasmo · 4 years

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inside the tumbler

The story started when my life accomplice Ariella Eliassaf chose to make her own Concrete Fire Bowl:

Making this bowl required projecting cement into a form and hanging tight for two days:

While trusting that the solid will solidify, we went to the plant nursery to get a few stones to put inside the bowl. The stones were harsh and had sharp edges, while we needed smooth edges.

This gave me a reason to fabricate something I needed to make in any case: a Rotary Tumbler.

What is a Rotary Tumbler?

A rotational tumbler is essentially a gadget with a barrel that pivots in a steady, low speed. It is utilized by rock gatherers to smooth and clean shakes, and furthermore by 3d-printing aficionados to give a pleasant clean to parts printed with metallic materials.

You put the part you need to clean inside the tumbler, alongside some rough material, and run the tumbler for quite a while — normally a few hours to a few days. The decision of grating material relies upon what you need to clean — for rocks, you will normally utilize silicon carbide coarseness, sand, glass or harder rocks.

So cleaning rocks was the reason for building the tumbler, yet the genuine explanation was that I needed to give this procedure a shot 3d printed parts.

Building the Tumbler

I began dealing with the tumbler on night, and my arrangement was to complete it the exact day, using parts I previously had at home. I required an engine, a barrel, and some approach to put join them and control the engine.

I had an extra NEMA-17 stepper engine and driver, and a vacant plastic container I utilized for the barrel. I appended the pole of the engine to the top of to plastic container utilizing a 3d-printed part and a few M3 screwsI developed a basic edge utilizing two M4 strung bars and two bits of steel sheets that I found, and mounted to it eight 624ZZ orientation that would hold the pivoting barrel. At that point, I utilized a bit of compressed wood (that was our old entryway sign) to hold the engine to the casing, lastly 3d-printed a pleasant center to mount the barrel onto the pole of the stepper motorBuilding this took around 3 hours (boring the huge engine gap in the compressed wood was the most testing part for me), and afterward I snared it a Pixl.js board a had lying around (which I additionally coincidentally seared, a couple of days after), and immediately hacked some JavaScript code that would permit me to control the speed and the heading of the stepper motorWith both the equipment and the product set up, I was at last prepared to step through it for an examination run! I didn't have any extraordinary rough material for the reason, so I simply attempted to put a lot of rocks with some coarse salt and run it for the evening. This is the thing that the principal run of my DiY tumbler looked likeAs you can envision, it was very loud, yet it carried out the responsibility — we left it running for the evening, shut the entryway (else we wouldn't have the option to lay down with the commotion), and returned tomorrow to see it was all the while working!

First Batch Results

The following day, we eliminated the barrel from the tumbler and opened it. It appears as though the coarse salt has been gone to fine salt, and the stones were without a doubt smootherIn expansion to rocks, I likewise put some bombed 3d-prints to perceive what might occur. At first, it appeared the 3d-prints weren't influenced by the cycle, yet after a day, I out of nowhere saw that sparkling salt gems have shaped on one of the printsThat was an absolutely startling outcome!

Turning Tumbler Reloaded

I attempted to run another bunch of rocks, this time with water, cleanser and some broke glass pieces, however it appeared as though the engine would get exceptionally hot following an hour or thereabouts and begin falling flat. Including a little fan head of the engine has truly aided, and now the engine no longer gets hot.

Later I additionally made sense of that the engine driver would get incredibly hot, and eventually it even softened the breadboard that I utilized for the projec

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aboutbrussels · 5 years

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The Best Knife Sharpeners in 2020

Finding the best blade sharpener is infrequently at the highest point of the need list when somebody intends to get themselves prepared for the kitchen. Be that as it may, at some point or another, even the most grounded kitchen blades will begin losing their edges, leaving clothes and tears on the cut. On the off chance that you've put resources into a quality arrangement of blades, it just bodes well to likewise discover a honing gadget that will help keep up those cutting edges appropriately.

Finding a not too bad blade sharpener can be as precarious as finding a not too bad blade. For a certain something, some honing gadgets just work on explicit kinds of blades. Likewise, the sharpness level conveyed relies upon the nature of the sharpener itself, yet additionally how much time and exertion you have spent on the honing procedure.

First of all, how about we investigate the various types of honing gadgets and conclude which will best suit your necessities.

The Most Popular Types of Knife Sharpeners

These are the best kinds of honing devices for kitchen blades.

1. Get through Sharpeners

Get through sharpeners come in two sorts: electric and manual gadgets.

The electric machine commonly has an engine that, when on activity, turns the honing wheels to change the sharp edge as you threaten to use your blade through it. It for the most part comprises of a coarse honing space with jewel, stone, or mletal abrasives, and one to three fine sharpening and cleaning openings with precious stone or artistic abrasives.

Electric sharpeners are quick, and exceptionally simple to utilize. They are perfect devices for cooks who need sharp blades yet would prefer not to invest a lot of energy in evacuating metal chips and fixing their cutting edges.

A manual get through sharpener appears to be like the electric machine, then again, actually it has no engine. You hone your blades by putting them into the openings and getting through with power. These manual sharpeners clearly cost less cash, and definitely additional time and work than the electric partners. In any case, they can at present bring fulfilling results.

2. Honing Kits

A honing unit offers extreme customization: it normally has a few alternatives of coarseness levels for honing, and furthermore manages so you can hone your blades to the specific wanted points.

Honing units or frameworks can be manual or electric. They will in general require additional time and exertion than other straightforward sharpeners, and you generally need to pass an expectation to absorb information before you can appropriately hone your blades without causing harms on the cutting edges. A decent honing pack is absolutely justified, despite all the trouble however: when you've aced the system, your cutting edges can have much quicker and more keen edges than when they're crisp out of the plant.

3. Honing Stones

Up until an age back, a lot of honing stones was as yet an unquestionable requirement have thing for any cook who needed to be considered genuinely. The demonstration of hauling an edge against a stone was seen nearly as a consecrated custom performed distinctly by the ace of a family unit.

Indeed, even with the development of excessively powerful electric machines these days, whetstones and oil stones despite everything appreciate a unique kindness from blade lovers for their incredible capacity to fix and totally change dull sharp edges, and furthermore for the feeling of achievement one feels when the time and exertion spent are thought about the mirror-like cutting edge.

4. Sharpening Rods

The sharpening bar, additionally called the honing pole, is most likely the easiest apparatus in the realm of sharpeners. To improve the sharpness of your edges, you run them along the pole at a particular point.

In opposition to mainstream thinking, these bars can not just give your dull cutting edge a decent clean, yet with appropriate materials (precious stone for instance), they can really fix somewhat harmed edges.

Surveys of the Best Knife Sharpeners 2020

We realize that in any event, when you've decided the sort of sharpener you're needing, it's still no simple activity to figure which accurate gadget has all the highlights you're searching for. That is the reason we invested energy looking at the most very much cherished blade honing gadgets at present available, and selected the ones we think offer the best execution to audit.

Here are our picks for the Best Knife Sharpeners.

1. Cook' Sharpener CS-T01 3 Stage Knife Sharpener – Best to Buy in 2020

Worked in a basic, straight-forward structure to fix, hone, and sharpen your cutting edges, the Chef's Sharpener handheld honing gadget offers a fast yet dependable fix for dull kitchen blades without draining your wallet.

Culinary specialist's Sharpener CS-T01 Best Sharpener for Value

Experts

Strong, stable development

Sturdy

Simple to clean

Successful at honing and sharpening

Reasonable cost

Cons

Not appropriate for seriously harmed cutting edges

This is one of the heaviest and best built get through sharpeners we have ever had in our grasp. It's made of strong ABS plastic, with tempered steel covers at both the working region and the base for upgraded solidness and simplicity of cleaning. It's a strong bit of gear, and it appears.

You will likewise see two patches of what resembles silicon under the base. These are not clingy, yet they work admirably at keeping the sharpener firm at its place on the ledge. This forestalls slipping and in this manner any potential mishaps while you're chipping away at your blades.

A modestly harmed edge ought to experience three honing stages: coarse precious stone residue poles for the fixing of the blade edge, tungsten carbide cutting edges for deburring, and artistic bars for fine sharpening. Give it a couple of appropriate pulls at each round, and your blade will turn out reset to production line sharpness.

For a fine clean of the cutting edge when each utilization, running it five to multiple times through the fired poles will do. On the off chance that you've at any point taken a stab at sharpening your blade with the base of your china bowl, these poles have about a similar impact. They quietly refine the sharp edge, giving it a "better" cut without expelling an unmistakable part from the edge like the two coarser stages would. As a little something extra: you don't have to put your excellent bowl topsy turvy on the ledge for this!

Accompanying both substance and style, and offered at a great value, the Chef's Sharpener is our most loved so far with regards to picking the best blade sharpener. Indeed, even the previous no-nonsense bowl sharpeners in our group value this gadget. We figured you may likewise observe its worth.

2. Chef'sChoice XV Professional Knife Sharpener – Best Electric Sharpener

It was simple for us to pick the best electric blade sharpener to purchase in 2020: the entire group were consistent in support of us of the Chef's Choice Trizor XV. We love that it's anything but difficult to utilize, but then so successful and ground-breaking.

Gourmet experts Choice Trizor Knife Sharpener Review

Professionals

Simple to utilize

Hones and sharpens straight and serrated blades

Cons

Substantial (4.7 pounds)

Significant expense tag

The Trizor XV is intended to bring back production line sharpness to your blades. It highlights three phases of edge reorganization, with two precious stone abrasives for coarse and fine honing, and an adaptable rough framework for a last clean. It's a decent blade sharpener, yet one of the exceptionally uncommon out there to offer hair stylist strop style cleaning.

The little device is additionally one of only a handful not many that are sufficiently amazing to transform your 20 degree edges into 15 degree, henceforth the name XV. As per Chef's Choice (and basic material science understanding, so far as that is concerned), the littler point, which is generally found on Japanese blades, permits the blade to cut more effectively and perform superior to anything the customary 20 degree edged blade from Europe and the U.S.

You will surely feel a sharp distinction in how effectively your blades cut subsequent to being honed with the apparatus. What's more, that is not just in light of the fact that they have littler calculated edges. The fine honing and cleaning stages evacuate all the little chips and make exceptionally fine depressions on the edges, permitting them to go easily through the hardest materials and deserting insignificant tears.

All that and the machine is anything but difficult to utilize. You might need to investigate the manual first for directions on the best way to treat explicit sorts of kitchen blades, however it'll take no time before you get its hang.

3. Work Sharp WSKTS-W Knife and Tool Sharpener – Best Knife Sharpening System

We were somewhat conflicted between this and the Ken Onion when selecting the most balanced blade honing framework, however triumph at last tumbled to this progressively essential version of Work Sharp sharpener. The explanation is basic: it despite everything accomplishes all the work, however requiring somewhat more exertion, and is offered at a large portion of the cash required for the Ken Onion.

Work Sharp WSKTS Knife Sharpening Review

Stars

Moderate

3 arrangements of rings included

Changes well honed edges

Has point guides

Cons

No guide for Asian blades

May scratch cutting edge

In case you're new to the blades and devices world, both are Work Sharp electric sharpeners that handle kitchen blades, open air blades, and a plenty of different instruments.

As a fundamental rendition, there is just one speed alternative on this machine. It has guides for various edges, however the aides can't deal with 15 degree Asian cutting edges. You should figure out how to

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qictoolsus · 1 year

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#dowel drill bits #v point drill bits for wood #hinge drill bits #solid carbide dowel bit #solid carbide through point bit

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arnoldvmejia · 1 year

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#dowel drill bits #v point drill bits for wood #hinge drill bits #solid carbide dowel bit #solid carbide through point bit

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ashesurnsjewellery · 4 years

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Instructional guide for making a cremation gem for Pandora style armbands step-by-step using UV sap similar to ours and one of our Ashes Urns Jewellery center. We are working with authentic cremation ashes. You don't have to stick in the supplements, and everything is done in a solitary pour!

Making A Cremation Bead for charms for bracelets pandora

You will need the following supplies:

a rock-solid security cover or nail tech veils

vinyl gloves

one of our Ashes Urns Jewellery center sets (A+B)

our medium dot mold*

cremation ashes (you can request some pony ashes here to try with)

cremation ashes spoon (just around the corner)

little pestle and mortar (just around the corner)

UV tar

mixed drink stick

(optional) your customer's decision in the shade of tar shimmer blend

you'll additionally need:

small side cutting pincers

a carbide burr bit (not far off)

a drill (Dremel style) with flex shaft

4mm doming punch

(optional) wooden doming block

We like to utilize a LED UV light to save energy and ensure the pieces from excessive hot temperature.. This one has a 99-second low warmth setting.

You can likewise utilize any of our other center viable shapes, for example, the faceted dab form or honeycomb globule shape. For different sizes like the huge dot form, we'd suggest you use these embedded paste and follow the lock of hair and engage in an instructional exercise here for sticking them in.

Setting up The Mold

Ensure you've done a test projected with any new form to check to check if it is good to use.

Examine your shape and check for any residue, soil, or lines and defects.

Globule molds don't generally get grimy inside, yet you can clean the top with a bit of scouring liquor if necessary.

It's in every case better to supplant a form when it's beginning to get dull than go through hours attempting to get an ideal sparkle back on your completed piece

Setting up your supplies

Check if you already have the needed items before you start.

Double check your customer's name and request number before proceeding.

You can take a small pinch of ashes and granulate them better, on the off chance that you have to, at that point clean the spoon.

I'd suggest making two appeal dots simultaneously to give your customer the decision.

Loading up with resin

Slowly fill your fascinating dab shape with gum.

Ensure the entire form is full and has no air bubbles.

Try not to fill the pouring spout, this should be eliminated later.

The pouring spout permits space for air pockets to rise.

If you end up with heaps of air pockets at this stage, it's advisable to fix it as soon as possible, at that point eliminate and dispose of the gum, and start once more.

Including cremation ashes to Belgravia Pendant

Include a small portion of the shimmer blend, like your cremation ashes.

Try not to utilize an excess of shading or it won't fix.

Utilize a mixed drink stick to securely stick them into the middle.

Leave no spots around the center.

If you have a lot of overabundance sap in the spout it will be better to eliminate later, so leave it out for some time if necessary.

If you need heaps of profundity to your dab, at that point don't carry the shading to the edges.

Relieving and cooling

Solution for 99 seconds before the ashes get an opportunity to sink

Permit cooling then flip over and fix again for an additional 99 seconds

Allow it to cool again before you touch it!

A decent method to assist it with cooling rapidly is by setting the form on a tile

At the point when the top feels cold, cautiously eliminate the dab without contacting the gleaming part

Permit it to cool totally

Evidence photo

Send your customer a photograph of the Ashes Chamber Pendants to confirm that they're with the shading and pick their number one appeal dot.

Master tip: if the customer doesn't care for the shading and the ashes are dim, redo the piece simply utilizing the smallest piece of ashes

Ensure you are transparent to them and you will restore any extra complimentary.

You can offer to set the other dab with a center for a little additional charge.

Around half of our customers at Tree of Opals choose to go for the additional piece and we charge £25, which is about $32 US Dollars

Clear up

Utilize the cooling time to clear up your workstation, returned your customer's ashes, and wash your pestle and mortar

SETTING

Setting up the dab

Ensure you wear protection wear doing this part

Utilize a couple of smaller than normal side slicing pincers to eliminate the abundance from the pouring spout.

At times this is sufficient yet, for the most part, you will at that point need to utilize a carbide burr touch to straighten the top.

This zone will be secured by your appeal center.

Double check the dab for blemishes.

You can wipe it with scouring liquor to eliminate any residue and tenacity.

Setting the center

I like to utilize a wooden doming block as a protected base, yet you can put it on a cloth.

Put the stepped section A (what I call the mushroom) through the front of the globule

Space part B over it at the back

If part B won't fit, utilize the bore to eliminate somewhat more gum

Put the 4mm doming punch in the focal point of the center at the back and press delicately until it flares.

I don't suggest utilizing a dab corner or press here because they can twist the center rusty

On the off chance that you don't have the quality, you can utilize a mallet however you should be extremely delicate

#charms for bracelets pandora #Ashes Chamber Pendants

0 notes

onlinecarbide · 3 years

Text

Spot Drills: Little Tools That Make a Big Difference

When it comes to accuracy, milling machines are truly amazing tools. They are capable of performing extremely complex operations very quickly to shockingly tight margins of error. Sadly certain longer cutting tools like drill bits are not always the most accurate when using these machines. Luckily using spot drills to your machining process can significantly improve how accurate your longer twist bits can be.

So what is the issue with drill bits? Simply put, the issue is tool vibration. All high speed tools oscillate slightly due to the centrifugal forces they are encountering. When the tool is long relative to their width like a drill bit, this effect can be a little more pronounced. This can lead to the tool having enough of an oscillation that the point of the bit will be swinging around the center of the bit's rotation.

When a bit that is oscillating contacts a hard surface, it can deflect instead of penetrating as intended. This can even cause the drill bit to walk off its mark entirely. Obviously this is a big issue, especially when accuracy is crucial on your workpiece. One of the best ways to improve your accuracy is to create a surface that will provide your drill bit with an easier location to drill. This can be achieved through spotting.

Spotting is the process of creating small dimples on the surface of a workpiece to mark the location of future holes. The process is almost like countersinking for a hole that does not exist yet. The best tool for spotting is a spot drill. Unlike your average drill bit, a spot drill is not designed to drill deep holes. Instead, they are limited to a fluted point that is made to cut cone shaped dimples into your workpiece. These tools are short by design, which makes them extremely stable. Carbide drills are a great option because carbide's structure is more rigid and tolerant of heat than other tool materials like high speed steel.

The process of spotting is usually quick and easy, all you need to do is make sure the spot drill has a point angle that is larger than or equal to the point angle of your longer twist drill bit. As long as this is the case, you can drill all of your spots so that your longer twist bits will hit their marks perfectly. It's also important to make sure that you are using a proper spotting drill and not a center drill or similar looking tool that often may have a smaller point angle.

If you need high quality spot drills for your shop, then you can find some high performance solid carbide options when you visit www.onlinecarbide.com. All of Online Carbide's tools are manufactured in America using high quality carbide stock. If you have any questions about any of the tools that they offer, feel free to reach out to a member of their team by sending an email to [email protected].

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merblogogy · 4 years

Text

Finest Drill Bits For Stainless Steel Testimonials As Well As Customers Tips

Working using stainless steel can be hard, particularly if you're currently trying to drill holes. As it is such a challenging content, it could be difficult to punch through, especially in the event that you don't have the correct drill bit. There are a lot of bits out there that are solid enough to work.

Not merely are you currently going to check at some remarkable bits, however we are going to go over the aspects of drill bits you can rest assured you're getting the great alternative for your needs. Whether you are doing mainly stainless or other hardened metals, it is imperative you know what things to keep an eye out for when making the determination.

The Best Way to Select a Drill Bit for Metal

Material

To begin with, it's necessary for you to make sure that the bit is demanding enough to take care of stainless . When it isn't, then you definitely may find a good deal of bits, or you also won't be able to punch through. You can find 3 principal metals utilised in bits that may perhaps work with stainless steel, although even as we're about to see, there is the one that stands above the rest.

HSS

These letters stand for high-quality metal, and this could be definitely the most cost effective content you are able to come across for drill bits. That being stated, most HSS bits can work with sparse alloys, for example stainless. We actually don't recommend them for high quality job, though, as they can wear down and either break or when punching as a result of bits, becoming dull. However, when you have thin sheets of stainless steel, then this specific stuff should do the job absolutely.

Cobalt

In the event that you are planning to drill right into metals cobalt is the way to go. The cause of that is that it's substantially harder and more expensive than HSS, meaning that it not only works better but lasts longer. On average, bits are going to likely undoubtedly be a mixture of metal and cobalt, so pay attention to the percentages therefore that you can be sure that you're getting bits created to your work.

Carbide

If you're dealing using superb rough metalsyou will need bits. But to make utilize of these properly you require a type of drill bit, and thus do not bother trying to get these if there isn't the tools with which to use them. They are simply created therefore it's maybe perhaps not worth the excess price tag for similar materials.

Tip

Since this is the part of the drill which is going to soon probably be doing the majority of the work, you would like a tip that could handle punching through stainless . You need to look for divided point tips using a angle of 135 degrees. It is wider and flatter than most bits developed for wood and plastic, plus it'll make certain you receive a clean gap every time. Moreover, the angle of this trick will probably help reduce walking if trying to become via the metal.

One factor to keep in your mind is you could still utilize tips, however they also may wear and get dull more rapidly, thus we simply recommend them for slim sheetmetal as opposed to whatever else. If you are working with many different stuff and would like to save a little money by having all-purpose bits, this can be a fantastic way to go. That said, however, we really do recommend you get bits if you want benefits that are much far better created for metalwork.

#est Drill Bits #Stainless Steel #Finest Drill Bits For Stainless Steel #Customers Tips

0 notes

forgottenhunterblog · 4 years

Text

Gerber Myth Fixed Blade Pro Knife 2020 Review

Today we will review a Gerber Myth fixed drop point style blade that features a highly functional gut hook. Gerber is renowned as a master of knives for over 70 years. Founded in 1939 and based in Portland, Oregon, USA. All Gerber products are designed and engineered in Portland, OR where many are produced, but not all, this particular knife has been designed by Gerber but is manufactured in China. They design high-quality strong knives for the military and hunters all over the world. Check Price of Gerber Myth Fixed Blade Pro Knife on Amazon Designed in cooperation with professional hunters, the Fixed Blade Pro is the foundation of the Gerber's Myth series.

First Impressions

The Gerber Myth is quite small with 8.5 inches in length. has a full tang construction and it weighs just 4.9 oz. Mine came sharp out of the box and the knife feels well balanced in all places.

Handle

The lightweight soft rubberized handle has a nice subtle texture and does a good job of providing the user grip. It is a tad on the small side for me but the handle holds comfortable and does offer a good grip. It does not get slippery in wet circumstances. Overall it is a well-designed handle and I have no complaints about it.

Blade

The Gerber Myth features a well crafted drop point style blade with a plain edge is 3.75" long and 0.125" thick and it features a well designed, practical gut hook tip. The steel used for the Gerber Myth is 7Cr17MoV stainless steel and has a Rockwell hardness of 58 HRC. It has a titanium-nitride PVD grey coating to keep corrosion to a minimum. The coating on the blade is of high-quality craftsmanship, is doesn't wear off that easy. The blade is really sharp. The only downside is that it does not hold an edge for very long and needs to be sharpened more often compared to more expensive hunting knives out there. Note: It is also available with either a standard drop point style blade.

Sheath

Like all fixed blade Gerber Myth Knives, the Myth Pro comes with a hard puncture-proof polymer sheath. The sheath is designed well and holds the knife well. Pulling your knife out works with a thumb push. One downside is that while the blade in the sheath is secure, it can rattle a bit, even with the rubber handle holder in place. Another point, the belt loop of the sheath is a little on the small side. If you like to wear wide belts than you might have trouble fitting the belt through the loop.

The dual-lock sheath has a built-in carbide sharpener. The built-in sharpener can be used to create an edge but it's not perfect. I prefer using a wet stone myself.

Performance

The Gerber Myth Pro Fixed Blade Knife is a really well-balanced gut hook knife and it performs excellently in the field. This knife is good for field dressing a hunted animal due to its immensely sharp edge and stout shape. The Gerber myth fixed blade pro has served me greatly. You can gut about 2 deer before it gets seriously dull. I have never had an issue and the knife is the perfect size to get the job done quickly and it is easy to clean. Overall, it is a fantastic support knife for delicate work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=21&v=PIWtcUq9E4o&feature=emb_logo

Specifications

Every product that bears the Gerber name is backed by their famous lifetime warranty.

Pros & Cons

ProsGreat price/quality ratioHighly functional bladeComfortable big grip Does not hold an edge long ConsMade in China

Conclusion

Gerber did a fantastic job designing this hunting knife. This construction is solid. The handle is easy to grip, and feels comfortable in your hand. It is a perfect gutting knife for small game and big game. I highly recommend this knife to any hunter out there! The Gerber Myth Fixed Blade Pro also comes in a drop point style blade version. Check Price of Gerber Myth Fixed Blade Pro Knife on Amazon For some other suggestions of the best hunting knives to buy in 2020, click here. Read the full article

#GerberMythfixedbladeproreview #Knifereview

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junecoppinger · 5 years

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Best Tile Cutter (April 2019) – Top 10 Picks & Reviews

Do you have a project that calls for the installation of tiles? Then it goes without saying that a tile cutter is among the tools that you need to have in order to achieve the best results. This tool will help you cut tiles into its recommended sizes and shapes to make sure you will be able to deliver the best installation results.

If you are planning to buy a tile cutter, you have to be certain that you are buying the right tile cutter. Buying the wrong tool will only be a waste of money and poor results, what’s even worse is that you might end up with broken tiles and a lot of energy wasted.

So for today’s article, I will be sharing with you the best tile cutter available in the market. Please keep on reading below to know what products made it to the list.

BEST Tile Cutter (April 2019) - Top 5 Picks & reviews

MODEL

PRICE

OVERALL

QEP 10900Q

check price

Mophorn

check price

Montolit 75P3

check price

QEP 10800

check price

Roberts 10-68

check price

Quick Navigation

1. QEP 10900Q 35-Inch Manual Tile Cutter

2. Mophorn Tile Cutter Manual 47 Inch Adjustable Laser Guide Tile Cutter

3. Montolit Masterpiuma Evolution 3 29" Push Porcelain Tile Cutter

4. QEP 10800 28-Inch Rip & 20-Inch Diagonal Professional Porcelain Tile Cutter

5. Roberts 10-68 25-Inch Pro Flooring Cutter

Top 5 Best Tile Cutter reviews

1. QEP 10900Q 35-Inch Manual Tile Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It has the ability to cut at several angles

• It’s less efficient when cutting on diagonal

• It features tungsten carbide scoring wheel

• It is not recommended for natural stone tiles as it only cuts porcelain and ceramic tiles

• It comes with large format efficient cutting guide

If you are looking for a manual tile cutter that can give you a tough all-around performance, then look no further. QEP 10900Q 35-Inch Manual Tile Cutter is one of the best in the market. It’s quite popular among DIY enthusiasts and contractors for a lot of good reasons.

First of all, this tile cutter really brings precision and quality to the table. It features a Score and Snap procedure to split the tiles. There’s no need to put too much downward pressure whenever you are cutting tiles, all you have to do is to roll the blade over the tile.

It also comes with a straight edge adjustable measurement guide that will take care of accuracy. In addition to that, it features a 7/8-inch titanium coated tungsten-carbide cutting wheel to give you a much smoother and hassle-free cut, while a high-leverage bicycle grip handle makes it convenient to use.

The cutting power of this tool is ideal for cutting ceramic and porcelain tiles. With regard to diagonal cuts, this tile cutter can rip up to 35 and 24 inches, if diagonal. This means it is capable of cutting any standard tile sizes, something that you will definitely need for various projects.

Another thing I like about this tool is that it is not only easy to operate but easy to maintain as well. You can easily clean it using regular soap and water or with compressed air after you are done working with it. It also has a pretty wide alloy base that makes this tool stable enough. Plus, there are also rubber pads that prevent the tile cutter from sliding whenever you are working.

2. Mophorn Tile Cutter Manual 47 Inch Adjustable Laser Guide Tile Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It’s very easy to use

• It’s quite difficult to store this tile cutter

• This tile cutter allows you to make precise tile cutting

• It’s a durable tile cutter that is made of high-quality materials

• It is equipped with modern technology using infrared ray device for accurate cutting

Here’s another remarkable tile cutter that will give you the precision and time efficiency that we’ve been all yearning for. This tool will allow you to cut tiles up to 47 inches and you can cut up to 6 inches thick. But what makes it amazing is that it is fitted with an adjustable laser guide that reduces the risk of making cuts that are not parallel to the edge of the tile.

It’s easy and fun to use this tile cutter. Its handle comes with a comfortable grip that provides ample stability as well as control over a smooth tile-cutting slide. It’s also pretty quick and simple to line the tile up and cut through the tile’s entire length; as a result, you will get a much more accurate cut. The steel side rails will guide your tiles when scoring too.

On top of it all, the alloy wheel cutter, ball bearing as well as the steel rail are made from high-quality materials that make it possible to cut through almost every type of tile. So if you are planning to buy the best manual tile cutter, this Mophorn Tile Cutter can be your best bet. It can be used on various applications; in addition to cutting floor tiles, ceramic and porcelain tiles, you can also use this in cutting stone, vitrified tiles and polished tiles.

3. Montolit Masterpiuma Evolution 3 29" Push Porcelain Tile Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It has a heavy-duty titanium scoring wheel that scores more efficiently

• Since it’s a high-end precision tool, it carries a hefty price tag

• A lubrication system has been integrated to keep the scoring wheel in the best condition

• It has been designed for professional use so there might be a bit steeper learning curve than most manual tile cutters

• It comes with a multi-point braking system that gives you the ability to make clean and precise cuts at all time

This model from Montolit Masterpiuma is the best choice for professionals who want precision and accuracy. This manual tile cutter is primarily intended for the professional market, so it is undoubtedly the most costly among the product on this list because of its quality. I know the price may probably put you off, but this is the best quality manual tile cutter you can purchase.

This tile cutter is intended to cut porcelain, ceramic and glass. It can handle any tile cutting job with ease, whatever the thickness or thinness of the tile you are working on or what the material is. It features a tungsten carbide cutting wheel that cuts flawlessly.

A multi-point break system has also been incorporated with this tile cutter for more accurate, consistently cleaner breaks after each tile are scored with the cutting wheel. This means you will less likely loose tiles when cutting due to incomplete or imprecise cuts.

It is made of nickel-plated steel and die-cast aluminum to make sure it will not be damaged quickly or will not be prone to corrosion. In addition to that, it has integrated lubrication that you can use to restore movement whenever you need it. Its handle has also been ergonomically designed, and even comes with a protractor square to make sure your measurements are accurate.

4. QEP 10800 28-Inch Rip & 20-Inch Diagonal Professional Porcelain Tile Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It’s a heavy-duty tile cutter that makes cutting tough porcelain tiles easy

• You might need to regularly replace the scoring wheel when you frequently cut porcelain tile

• It comes with four-levels height adjustable cutting wheel

• It’s highly recommended for both DIY homeowners and professional tile installers

Here’s another professional tile cutter that features 7/8-inch cutting wheel for precision. The reason why this tile cutter made on top of my list is that it has a solid construction as well as remarkable features and capabilities that made it user-friendly.

This tool has the ability to rip cut tile of 20 inches and 27 inches diagonally. It comes with wide die-cast aluminum alloy base to make it stable even if you are cutting large-sized titles. I was pretty impressed by how the tool’s side arm extension can hole extremely large tiles. It also has four heavy-duty rubber pads so it will not budge from its position and allow you to cut tile more accurately.

In addition to that, this tile cutter comes with titanium coated carbide wheel which makes it easier to score and break hard tiles using only a minimum downward pressure. The titanium coat makes the carbide wheel sturdy enough for long term use.

But what’s even great is that you can work on with this tile cutter for long period of hours without feeling any back pains or fatigue on your shoulders. It also comes with three chrome-plated rail bars and ball bearings so it will not be difficult to move the tool. No wonder why it has been highly recommended by most DIY homeowners.

5. Roberts 10-68 25-Inch Pro Flooring Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It is capable of cutting straight and square

• There’s no clear instruction on how to install this tool

• It works well both for industrial work and DIYers

• It comes with high performance and is a durable cutter

When it comes to performance, this electric tile cutter is the best. It has cutting power that can go through a wide range of materials. This is because it has been built using solid materials like an extruded aluminum foundation.

Its surface is made of plastic to make sure it will not wobble. In addition to that, this cutter comes with an adjustable handle to provide you with the force needed for cutting; this makes it comfortable to cut.

This cutter also comes with a guide that will lock and swivel, which is important for a more precise angle cuts. I like that this guide can be easily adjusted and will help you maintain square cuts. Its 13 inches blade is sharp and built for heavy-duty use; when it gets worn-out, you can just quickly replace it.

How To Choose The Best Tile Cutter

With thousands of tile cutters on the market, finding the best among the sea of options can be a real struggle. But you should always go for the best.

So I’ve listed down below the most important factors you have to consider when buying for a tile cutter. Keep on reading below.

1. Type of Tile Cutters

You have to be very certain about the type of tile cutter you will buy to make sure it will be able to serve the purpose it is intended. Your decision will likely depend on the type of task ahead of you.

The most common types of tile cutters are manual tile cutter and electrical tile cutter; each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Manual Tile Cutters:These are simple tools that come with a scoring wheel and a durable base. They are designed to cut different types of tiles, easily and quickly. Most of these units are lightweight, portable and compact. However, since manual cutting tiles can be a bit tiring, they are more appropriate for simpler and lighter-duty jobs.

Electric Tile Cutters: These are also often referred to as tile saws. They come in various sizes and styles and are the must-haves of professionals working on heavy-duty tasks. This is because they can cut much better and faster through thick tiles made of tough materials. They are recommended for high-volume demands; however, they are difficult to transport from one job site to another.

2. Materials to Cut

Think about the type of tiles you are going to cut. Take note that tiles vary in thickness and texture. So make sure you are choosing a cutter that is can accommodate compatible blades and comes with enough power to cut through. Most of the regular ceramic tiles, which are the most commonly used at home, can be cut through with most types of tile cutters.

3. Tile’s Size

Cutters are available in different sizes. The most common ones are 14 inches, 24 inches and 35 inches. Make sure you are buying the right sized cutter according to the size of the tiles you often cut.

4. Stability

Is your choice of tile cutter remains in place whenever you are cutting several large and thick tiles? Make sure that the tile cutter will be stable enough or else you might ruin the outcome of the tiles. Check out if the cutter features a reinforced base that will not slide of its place when in use.

5. Portability

If you need to use a tile cutter in different worksites, then portability is an important factor you need to consider. A cutter that is compact and lightweight will always be your best option.

Final Thoughts

Installing new shiny ceramic tiles is definitely a daunting task, especially if you don’t have the right tools. Whether this is just your first time cutting tiles or you are already a seasoned DIYer who has done this before, the best tile cutter will make the entire process easy. You will be able to complete any type of tiling project in no time.

So hopefully, you will be able to choose from the products I mentioned above that will suit your needs and preference. If you still have any more question, don’t hesitate to drop it in the comment section below. I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.

youtube

The post Best Tile Cutter (April 2019) – Top 10 Picks & Reviews appeared first on Luxury Home Stuff.

from Luxury Home Stuff https://www.luxuryhomestuff.com/best-tile-cutter/ from Luxury Home Stuff https://luxuryhomestuff1.tumblr.com/post/184180135499

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luxuryhomestuff1 · 5 years

Text

Best Tile Cutter (April 2019) – Top 10 Picks & Reviews

So for today’s article, I will be sharing with you the best tile cutter available in the market. Please keep on reading below to know what products made it to the list.

BEST Tile Cutter (April 2019) - Top 5 Picks & reviews

MODEL

PRICE

OVERALL

QEP 10900Q

check price

Mophorn

check price

Montolit 75P3

check price

QEP 10800

check price

Roberts 10-68

check price

Quick Navigation

1. QEP 10900Q 35-Inch Manual Tile Cutter

2. Mophorn Tile Cutter Manual 47 Inch Adjustable Laser Guide Tile Cutter

3. Montolit Masterpiuma Evolution 3 29" Push Porcelain Tile Cutter

4. QEP 10800 28-Inch Rip & 20-Inch Diagonal Professional Porcelain Tile Cutter

5. Roberts 10-68 25-Inch Pro Flooring Cutter

Top 5 Best Tile Cutter reviews

1. QEP 10900Q 35-Inch Manual Tile Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It has the ability to cut at several angles

• It’s less efficient when cutting on diagonal

• It features tungsten carbide scoring wheel

• It is not recommended for natural stone tiles as it only cuts porcelain and ceramic tiles

• It comes with large format efficient cutting guide

2. Mophorn Tile Cutter Manual 47 Inch Adjustable Laser Guide Tile Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It’s very easy to use

• It’s quite difficult to store this tile cutter

• This tile cutter allows you to make precise tile cutting

• It’s a durable tile cutter that is made of high-quality materials

• It is equipped with modern technology using infrared ray device for accurate cutting

3. Montolit Masterpiuma Evolution 3 29" Push Porcelain Tile Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It has a heavy-duty titanium scoring wheel that scores more efficiently

• Since it's a high-end precision tool, it carries a hefty price tag

• A lubrication system has been integrated to keep the scoring wheel in the best condition

• It has been designed for professional use so there might be a bit steeper learning curve than most manual tile cutters

• It comes with a multi-point braking system that gives you the ability to make clean and precise cuts at all time

4. QEP 10800 28-Inch Rip & 20-Inch Diagonal Professional Porcelain Tile Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It’s a heavy-duty tile cutter that makes cutting tough porcelain tiles easy

• You might need to regularly replace the scoring wheel when you frequently cut porcelain tile

• It comes with four-levels height adjustable cutting wheel

• It’s highly recommended for both DIY homeowners and professional tile installers

This tool has the ability to rip cut tile of 20 inches and 27 inches diagonally. It comes with wide die-cast aluminum alloy base to make it stable even if you are cutting large-sized titles. I was pretty impressed by how the tool's side arm extension can hole extremely large tiles. It also has four heavy-duty rubber pads so it will not budge from its position and allow you to cut tile more accurately.

5. Roberts 10-68 25-Inch Pro Flooring Cutter

check price on amazon

pros

cons

• It is capable of cutting straight and square

• There’s no clear instruction on how to install this tool

• It works well both for industrial work and DIYers

• It comes with high performance and is a durable cutter

How To Choose The Best Tile Cutter

With thousands of tile cutters on the market, finding the best among the sea of options can be a real struggle. But you should always go for the best.

So I’ve listed down below the most important factors you have to consider when buying for a tile cutter. Keep on reading below.

1. Type of Tile Cutters

The most common types of tile cutters are manual tile cutter and electrical tile cutter; each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Manual Tile Cutters: These are simple tools that come with a scoring wheel and a durable base. They are designed to cut different types of tiles, easily and quickly. Most of these units are lightweight, portable and compact. However, since manual cutting tiles can be a bit tiring, they are more appropriate for simpler and lighter-duty jobs.

2. Materials to Cut

3. Tile’s Size

4. Stability

5. Portability

If you need to use a tile cutter in different worksites, then portability is an important factor you need to consider. A cutter that is compact and lightweight will always be your best option.

Final Thoughts

Installing new shiny ceramic tiles is definitely a daunting task, especially if you don't have the right tools. Whether this is just your first time cutting tiles or you are already a seasoned DIYer who has done this before, the best tile cutter will make the entire process easy. You will be able to complete any type of tiling project in no time.

youtube

The post Best Tile Cutter (April 2019) – Top 10 Picks & Reviews appeared first on Luxury Home Stuff.

from Luxury Home Stuff https://www.luxuryhomestuff.com/best-tile-cutter/

0 notes

itsworn · 6 years

Text

Making Slant Six Sense, Part 2

In our last installment, we proved the old-reliable Slant Six in bone-stock form isn’t anywhere near the performance standards of a modern six- or four-cylinder engine. When we put our 1966 Dart GT on the road two and a half years ago after a 20-year hibernation, we realized just how sluggish the old leaning tower of power was in this day and age.

If you missed Part 1, we added Performance Distributors Tri-Power electronic ignition and Livewires ignition wires, which jolted-up its performance significantly. Then we dyno tested TTI’s new 2 1/2-inch exhaust, and it also upped the performance to the tune of 9 rwhp and 10 lb-ft. Those two bolt-ons helped our Dart be a more compatible driver, but it’s still not enough performance in today’s world. Total ouput on the chassis dyno was still a paltry 71 hp and 119 lb-ft of torque. We needed more.

Our plan for our early A-Body is a reliable daily driver in our (rapidly approaching) retirement years. We want to be that “old fart driving a Dodge Dart.” But we don’t want to be that old-timer holding up traffic, because we don’t have the performance to go and flow on today’s roads, which are jammed with impatient drivers. Before we get to the 1- to 2-barrel conversion, future plans for the Leaning Tower of Power will be a cam and cylinder head swap. The camshaft will be of the smooth idle type to broaden the power band from idle to 5,000 rpm. The stock cylinder head will be ported and .080 inch removed from its deck. We thought swapping to this Holley 350 two-barrel might be too much for a stone-stocker, but the Slant Six will be ready to breathe in the added airflow when we perform the cam and head swap.

So here we’re exploring new territory by bolting on a big Holley 350-cfm two-barrel instead of the Super Slant Six, Carter BBD two-barrel with 260 cfm. We figured since the TTI 2 1/2-inch exhaust is getting the flow out, the Offenhauser four-barrel intake fitted with the Holley two-barrel would get the flow in more effectively for more power. Our theory is the six-in-a-row will go better with a two-barrel than a small four-barrel Holley 390 or Edelbrock 500 cfm. There’s no waiting for the secondaries to kick in.

We think this is a very worthwhile upgrade for the Slant Six enthusiast. Just be sure to have a high-flow exhaust and strong ignition before planning to perform this intake/carb swap. Also, we need to mention, gas mileage has improved. The tilted engine must be getting the right amount of the airflow in and out to make it inherently more efficient. All the performance parts needed for this one- to two-barrel adventure are available through Summit Racing. The restoration supplies were from Eastwood. Now our cool-looking Slant Six is the star on cruise night when we open the hood. Follow along and see how to add 26 percent more go to a six-in-a-row.

In the previous episode, our ’66 Dart’s original Slant Six improved its get-up-and-go from Performance Distributors electronic ignition and TTI’s unrestrictive 2 1/2-inch exhaust. For this adventure, the stock Holley one-barrel, a 150-cfm choker, will be replaced with a better inhaling Holley two-barrel 350-cfm carburetor. The results were better than we expected. We found out that even a bone-stock Slant Six enjoys freer breathing.

Instead of swapping to a 40-something-year-old factory Super Slant Six two-barrel intake manifold and carburetor, we chose this proven, tried-and-true Offenhauser four-barrel manifold (PN OFY-5270LK, Summit, $357.99). This cool Offy intake bolts up to the factory exhaust manifold, allowing us continued use of the 2 1/2-inch TTI Exhaust bolted to the stock manifold.

We decided a two-barrel carburetor like this Holley 350 cfm would perform better on our stone-stock six over a small four-barrel Holley 390 or an Edelbrock 500. We intend to daily drive the Dart in our retirement years and chose this electric choke Holley Street Avenger 2300-series two-barrel (PN HLY-0-80350, $373.95).

We’ve been testing and using K&N X-Stream air cleaners since their introduction in the late ’90s with great results. K&N’s 11-inch X-Stream Airflow assembly (PN KNN-66-3110, $137.99) will provide unrestrictive breathing, fit with the factory air conditioning compressor, and under the Dart’s low hood.

Mounting the two-barrel adapter plate into position showed a major restriction underneath from the four holes for a four-barrel carburetor. An advantage of running a two-barrel on a four-barrel intake is the two venturi holes will be centered better to the intake’s runners. A machine shop can cut away the four holes and turn it into an open plenum-type intake.

Or if you’re handy and have the tools, like us, you can use a cutting wheel, carbide bit, and sanding rolls to open up the carburetor base area. To promote good airflow velocity, we rolled the roof of all the runner entrances and blended the outer sections of the four holes to help direct airflow toward the outer cylinders (1, 2, 5, 6).

Now, after our handiwork there’s no longer airflow interference under the two-barrel adapter plate. The two nostrils will now have unrestrictive airflow!

When we removed the intake/exhaust manifold assembly, we discovered the exhaust manifold was cracked right where it was once repaired/welded. The ’60s Slant Six exhaust manifolds were notorious for cracking. Luckily, we knew of a parts car nearby, a 1972 Dart, and were able to get the needed manifold.

Notice the top of our Dart’s 1966 thinner-looking exhaust manifold. Ma’ Mopar beefed-up the Slant’s exhaust manifold starting in 1970. They made it a thicker casting with extra reinforcement ribs to strengthen it and prevent the cracking issue of the ’60s Slant-Six exhaust manifold.

The three bolts holding the manifolds together broke off inside the exhaust manifold. We tried soaking the bolts with penetrating oil for three days, but they still snapped. Our local machine shop (IDM Speed and Machine, Manahawkin, New Jersey) extracted the bolts for us.

After extracting the bolts, IDM also steel-shot blasted and tapped the threads for the three boltholes in the manifold. Your author smoothed-down excessive casting flash using his die-grinder equipped with sanding rolls. Using a sanding block, we resurfaced the gasket area where the manifolds bolt together.

Also, at IDM the flange area was resurfaced to remove pits for good gasket seal. We smoothed-out all the port entrances, going an inch into each port.

Notice the exhaust port exit also received the sanding roll treatment. We welded the heat riser shaft to keep it in the open position for best exhaust flow. The Slant Six manifold has longer port runners for superior flow compared to the other straight six’s of the time.

We’ve been using Eastwood’s Hi-Temp Exhaust Coating (PN 34105Z, $27.99, pint) for years, plus it lasts for years with proper manifold prep work. Sand, bead, or steel-shot blast the manifolds, then prep clean with Eastwood’s Pre (PN 10041Z, $7.99). A brush- on application has been working for us for nearly 40 years. It’s great, well-proven paint.

The intake and exhaust manifolds were mock assembled to check port alignment. My fingers and a pen point to the three-bolts (ARP stainless 3 1/4-inch, PN ARP-612-3250 Summit $21.99, 3 1/2-inch PN ARP-612-3500, $21.99 set of five-bolts) that hold the manifolds together. These three bolts only need to be finger tight to help align the manifolds during assembly and before securing the 13-nuts holding the intake/exhaust manifold to the cylinder head.

The stock, steel shim heat-riser gasket (right, .020-inch thick) showed manifold port alignment to be off by nearly an 1/8 inch. This thicker-than-stock Remflex heat riser gasket (left) is 1/8-inch thick (.125 inch) and guaranteed to stop exhaust leaks. It’s made of solid graphite that’s resistant to 3,000 degrees F, with 50 percent crush to seal warped or pitted flanges. Plus, it’ll help us evenly align the ports of the manifolds. The Remflex intake/exhaust manifold and heat riser gasket set (PN RFL-6008, Summit $39.99) will assure us no intake/exhaust manifold leaks to worry about.

With the three-bolts finger-tight, we were able to move the manifolds around enough to see if they were square to the edge of the ruler. The manifolds met up square except for the amount removed (.015) from resurfacing the exhaust manifold flange. See the orange washer? There are 10 of those triangular-shaped washers to help evenly secure the two manifolds to the cylinder head during assembly.

The thick Remflex gasket lined up well with all the ports. No need to gasket match the ports or gasket itself. For Slant’s with pitted and/or warped flanges, this thick (.125 inch) gasket can prevent leaks that the other thinner gaskets can’t.

We cleaned up the side of the block with Eastwood’s Pre Painting Prep before painting. Eastwood’s High-Temp Ceramic Engine Paint is the most durable engine paint we know of. For our application, we used Chrysler Red (PN 51621ZP, $31.99 quart) and their Urethane Activator (PN 21854Z, $14.99) for added durability and gloss.

While we were at it, the starter and these two brackets were cleaned and prepped with the Pre. Eastwood’s 2K Ceramic Underhood Black (PN 14147Z, $22.99) has two-part spray gun technology, and it’s as close as it gets to powdercoating. We used the Aluma Blast (PN 10109Z, $12.99) on the starter’s housing for that extra detailed look.

First, the 13-nuts were progressively tightened (2, 5, 10, 15, 20 ft-lb) from the middle to the outside of the intake/exhaust manifold assembly. Then, the three bolts that were finger-tight holding the manifolds together were secured to 18 ft-lb. High-temp antiseize was utilized on the threads of all the fasteners. Next, seen here, is one of the four screws being tightened to hold-down the four-barrel adapter plate.

Mock assembly showed us there wasn’t quite enough hood clearance using the 1-inch-thick Summit two-barrel carb adapter (left) with the K&N X-Stream air cleaner in place. Using the Holley 3/4-inch-thick two-barrel adapter plate (PN HLY-17-90, $106.95), there was just enough clearance to close the hood.

Here the Holley 2-bbl adapter is mounted, and the pencil is pointing at the included tapered head screw. This screw needs to be installed in the left/front hole for accelerator pump clearance. The tan-colored two-barrel carb gasket is the same Fel-Pro gasket (FEL-60124, $4.99) listed for the 340 or 440 Six Pack Holley carburetors.

The new 350-cfm Holley Street Avenger is mounted with the fuel bowl forward and the throttle lever on the left side. The throttle lever faced rearward on the stock one-barrel. This necessitates the use of aftermarket throttle and kickdown brackets/cables.

At first we tried using the combination of the stock throttle cable with a four-barrel bracket we had laying around. The Lokar trans kickdown cable and bracket worked well and looks great. Using the stock throttle cable made for excessive gas pedal travel (an extra inch) to obtain full throttle. At that, we ordered the Lokar throttle cable giving us the right ratio for the throttle and kickdown cable to function properly.

Here’s our attractive final setup using the Lokar throttle cable (PN LOK-TC-1000HT, $53.99), trans kickdown cable (PN LOK-KD-2904HT, $74.99) and bracket with springs (LOK-SRK-4000, $30.99). The accelerator pedal feels smoother, and pedal travel is back to stock. The 904 TorqueFlite’s passing gear kick-down and shifting is better than ever.

Power gains were felt immediately driving around town and on the highway to the Mustang dynamometer at Tune Time Performance in Lakewood, New Jersey. Flowing with the today’s traffic that’s always changing their cruising speeds from 65 to 85 mph required much less throttle pedal depression. On Tune Time’s chassis dyno, we saw peak gains of 19 rwhp at 3,500 (71 to 90 rwhp) and 17 lb-ft at 3,000 rpm (119 to 136 lb-ft). That makes for a performance improvement of 26 percent! That’s big-time gains from just an intake and carburetor swap.

When looking at the dyno graph we noticed that between 3,200 and 4,000 rpm, the 4.125-inch stroke six showed gains of 25 to 26 lb-ft. That additional torque is really felt passing pokes out on the highway. We recommend this swap to any bone-stock 225-cube Slant Six with a strong electronic ignition and a high-flow exhaust like ours.

The Dart’s performance and driveability improved so much, we didn’t think to bring along our boxes of Holley jets and power valves. Our a/f (air/fuel) ratio showed too lean between 2,700 to 3,300 rpm (13.7 a/f average), but lean and mean at 3,400 to 4,200 rpm (13.0 to 13.1 a/f).

When we got home we changed from the stock #61 to #64 jets. The #85 power valve was switched to a #65, which Holley recommends for most performance applications. Seat of the pants told us we gained more power and torque. From our experience dyno tuning, we guesstimate our a/f ratio is now a perfect 12.8 to 12.9. The added power from this intake/carb swap is very impressive with gains better than we expected. Driving on the highway now is not a white-knuckle experience. The modifications put a lot more “Grand” into the “Touring” of our Dart GT.

For a look at Part 1 of this Slant Six saga, click here.

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