travelotheque

[travelotheque]

For some reason, Moscow was never on my list, yet I ended up spending a long weekend in the city thanks to one of my good friends who’s now living there (for a while, before she moves to more exciting places). It’s one of those places which still requires a visa, and not on arrival as that would be easy, but a whole process involved. And it’s not only the hassle of collecting the required documents, submitting your application online and going to the embassy for the interview, but it’s also the relatively high fees that you’ve got to pay. And then, you wonder yourself if you really want to go.

But once your visa is sorted out, flights from London are relatively cheap considering the distance, it’s the accommodation and the city itself that’s expensive. However I let you do the maths & sort out the budget of your trip to Moscow, and I’ll only recommend you some places I’ve tried during my trip there.

Before I tell you everything I know about my Tried & tested in Moscow, I’ll just point out a couple of things you might wanna see, things not that obvious I’d say as the Red Square or the Bolshoi Theatre.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

As you walk on Moscow’s main pedestrian street (and you’ll be amazed by its lights), you’ll find Vokrug Sveta, a small food market with loads of food stalls, serving various cuisines around the world. I’ve obviously stopped at the “From Russia with love” stall, to enjoy a soup and some gorgeous pickles (which btw reminded me of home).

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Another not so obvious place, or maybe for some of you might be, is the shopping centre in the Red Square which everyone should experience:) My favourite here, the grocery shop at ground floor.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

One last place you must see is Eliseevsky Store on Tverskaya boulevard. This grocery store which looks more like a palace than a store, with sophisticated, opulent interiors and very high ceilings was opened in 1901 and it’s said to be the first one in Moscow. Entering this place is like going back to a different era.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Now back to the Tried & tested. There are loads of cool places in the city, you just need the time to try them all out. Again, I have to thank my friend, Stella, for showing me probably the coolest places around. And here we go…

Uilliam’s – hipster & cozy place, suitable for any moment of the day or occasion: just a coffee or a glass of wine with your best friends, working breakfast or lunch if you’re an entrepreneur, or dinner with your friends.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with c1 preset

Pinch – similar to Uilliam’s, same neighbourhood (Patriarch’s ponds), equally lovely and worth trying. Cocktails are their specialty. Don’t miss here the Vitello tonnato & the burrata;)

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

I love cake – as it name suggests, is the place to go if 1. you love cake and 2. don’t care that much about the number of calories per slice of cake:)

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Keanu bar for cocktails – in summer you’re allowed to have your drink outside in front of the bar, however they will serve it in a paper cup. So cool to be undercover, right?

Processed with VSCO with c1 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Right around the corner, is Cutfish bistro – serving sushi & asian food

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with c1 preset

Valenok – couple of reasons to go here: friendly staff, lovely terrace for the summer, amazing cakes and food in general, but most importantly, probably one of the best NAPOLEON cake in the city (for my Romanian readers, this is very similar to Cremsnit, but better & bigger 🙂 )

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with c1 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Other places you might consider:

The White Rabbit restaurant (no 23. in the World’s 50 best restaurant) and the sister restaurant, Selfie.

Cafe Pushkin

Strelka bar in Red Oktober, with a lovely terrace to go out for a drink in summer

Garage Museum of Contemporary art – they’ve also got a coffee place / restaurant where you can work from, meet your friends or hang around

Tried & tested in Moscow, Russia For some reason, Moscow was never on my list, yet I ended up spending a long weekend in the city thanks to one of my good friends who's now living there (for a while, before she moves to more exciting places).

[travelotheque]

Not sure whether you’ll agree with me on this one, but… while there are loads of guides for Rome on ‘things to do’ & tips on how to skip the queues, best time of the day for sightseeing and the list can continue, I always struggled in finding good articles about restaurants in the city. And it’s not surprising at all, as at the end of the day one of the main reasons you’d chose Rome over any other Italian city is its history, heritage and some of the most iconic sites in the world. But since you’re in Italy, you’d also expect to enjoy some true Italian food.

We were in Rome this year for my birthday, which happened to fall on Easter day! and being the second time in the city, we skipped all the touristic activities and focused more on exploring sites less popular & less busy for that time of the year.

And here I am, sharing with you 2 of our culinary experiences in Rome, which I find worth sharing with you.

ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA CON CUCINA – definitely book before, as it’s a popular place in the city and the chances you’ll find a table available just walking in are extremely low. Despite its popularity, the food is amazing and they have an extended assortment of wines.

At the first floor they’ve got a Deli, where you can buy all types of cured meats and cheeses, but they’ve also got couple of tables where you can sit for a quick bite. At the basement there’s the restaurant, where you can enjoy a lovely, delicious lunch.

And, if you forgot to reserve a table, you still have chances to grab a quick bite in their Cafe or in their Bakery, both of them walking distance from the Deli on the same street. Since it was Easter time, we couldn’t resist the temptation to buy the traditional cake, Colomba pasquale, a delicious pastry with lots of chocolate 🙂

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

MARCO MARTINI RESTAURANT AT THE CORNER – 1 Michelin star restaurant

They serve both a tasting menu and a la carte, depending on how many dishes you fancy having. Lovely atmosphere, excellent service and great food. On top, they make some amazing cocktails if you fancy that instead of wine, your choice 🙂

The corner townhouse is a boutique hotel, not too far from the centre of the city, offering 10 rooms in total, each of them with its very own charm, if you’re looking for a place to stay.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Other places we’ve tried in Rome:

Casa Coppelle – 1 Michelin star. We first went to Casa Coppelle 6 years ago (no star at that time), so was good going back after such a long time.

Eataly Rome – good place for your food & wine shopping before you head back to the airport – more expensive than the average supermarkets in Italy, but definitely cheaper than the last minute shopping in the airport; the assortment is excellent. It’s also a good place for a quick bite – they’ve got everything you might fancy, from pizza to pasta, from fish & seafood to a steak, from coffee to sweets.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Obica Mozarella Bar – more locations in the city, but also in other cities across Europe. Good for a quick bite.

Tried & tested in Rome, Italy Not sure whether you'll agree with me on this one, but... while there are loads of guides for Rome on 'things to do' & tips on how to skip the queues, best time of the day for sightseeing and the list can continue, I always struggled in finding good articles about restaurants in the city.

[travelotheque]

This summer we wanted to go back to our favourite town in Sicily, Noto just for a couple of days, after exploring the western part of Sicily about which you can read here.

Why we love Noto so much?

Well, lots of reasons really…its architecture and its romantic vibe, the light on the streets at sunset and the cobbled streets, the hot summer afternoons which remind me of my summer holidays in school and of course the almond granita at Caffe Sicilia. Those watching Chefs table on Netflix will definitely understand what I’m talking about.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Where to stay?

We were very lucky to find this gorgeous airbnb right in the city centre, 5mins walk from Caffe Sicilia, so that we could easily be there first to arrive for breakfast. It has everything you need – well equipped kitchen, 2 bedrooms and a bathroom with shower, all nicely decorated, Celine, our host, giving a great attention to all the details. There is even a small courtyard, if you want to enjoy your coffee outside. Parking is for free on the streets nearby and it’s quite easy to find a spot.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Caffe Sicilia – is the place to go at any time of the day. Be the first there to get the best table outside and to meet Corrado. Don’t miss the almond Granita with brioche, this is what they have in Sicily for breakfast, as it’s way too hot for a coffee. You can also have a coffee if you want to, nobody said no to it 🙂

It’s also the place to go for a gelato in the afternoon, an absolute refreshment in the 40 degrees outside. But also the place to be late in the evening and enjoy a cannolo – I love sitting at the terrace and staring at the people passing by.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Crocifisso restaurant – beautiful Sicilian dishes in a lovely, modern place. This is where we went twice, first time was 4-5 years ago at the recommendation of our airbnb host in Sicily at that time, which happened to be a food blogger.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Beach time?

There are 3 mains beaches at Riserva Naturale di Vendicari and we tried all of them. You need to know that these are pristine beaches, with no shade during the day, s a beach umbrella and water, but also towels as there are no sun-beds. If you plan to spend the whole day at the beach, you’d better bring some food as well, as there is no place to buy stuff around.

Calamosche beach – 15-20 mins walk from where you leave the car to the beach, prepare yourself for this as it might be quite tough in the heat (no shade)

Eloro beach – only 5-10 mins walk from where you can park, relatively smaller beach compared to Calamosche

Spiaggia di Vendicari – only 5mins walk, easily accessible

Not far from any of these beaches, still in the Vendicari reserve, there is Il Baglietto di Vendicari, a lovely place hidden among the olive trees where you can enjoy a break in the shade and enjoy some of their lovely dishes: seafood pasta, grilled squid and fish, fresh tomato salad, fruits for dessert or one of their delicious pies. It’s the kind of place you can go back again & again, as the food is just perfect for summer and you can enjoy something different every day.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Fancy a cooking class?

We found one on airbnb and it proved to be a good choice and a lovely experience. Fausta, the owner of Baglio Occhipinti shared with us the secrets of preparing the parmigiana melanzane and sicilian pasta, which were later served for dinner to all her 19 guests (if I remember correctly). Lots of fun and good Sicilian wine 🙂

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

The bed & breakfast is gorgeous, you may consider booking a room there if you decide to spend a couple of days in the area.

Now I hope you’ve got all the reasons to fall in love with Noto and its surroundings:)

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

  A guide to Noto, Sicily This summer we wanted to go back to our favourite town in Sicily, Noto just for a couple of days, after exploring the western part of Sicily about which you can read…

[travelotheque]

Being asked multiple times about the places I’ve been to in New York City, I decided to summarise both my favourites, but also places I’ve got on my list but didn’t have the chance to try out yet. Looking for the perfect place in NYC can be a veeeery time consuming task, as there is so MUCH to choose from. This is just a little inspiration.

Ideal for brunch

Le Coq Rico – located in the Flat Iron district, owned by a renowned French chef specialised in sophisticated poultry dishes

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Jack’s Wife Freda – with 2 locations, one in Soho and the other one in West Village

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Little Collins – Manhattan Midtown, close to Central Park. There are high chances that you have to wait for a table, as this place is tiny. But it’s absolutely worth the wait if you’re in the neighbourhood

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Have an icecream at Van Leeuwen & try one of their out of the box & daring flavours. Hands up those who have had before the ‘Wedding cake’ flavour!

Again you’re in luck, they’ve got multiple locations around the city so you can’t miss them.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Time for a coffee break?

La Colombe Coffee Roasters is one of the places I’ve tried, great coffee in a cozy atmosphere. Again, they’ve got multiple locations in Manhattan, so check what’s best for you.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Butler Bake Shop & Espresso Bar (in Brooklyn)

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Getting hungry again?

One of our favourites in the city is Tetsu (located in TriBeca) and not only for their sushi as you might think, but for their absolutely delicious lamb (or beef) burger. The burger is individually cooked in a clamshell-like cast-iron device, topped with cheese and served on a pretzel bun.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Charlie Bird (in Soho) is another place you’ve got to check if you want to try some good Italian – New American dishes.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Neither tried, nor tested, but researched & on our list

La Pecora Bianca – Italian food (Midtown Manhattan)

Saltwater Coffee – coffee place (East Village)

Ludlow Coffee supply – coffee shop & a place for breakfast/brunch (East Village)

The butcher’s daughter – coffee shop & a place for breakfast/brunch (various locations)

La Mercerie – Fench eatery, pastry counter, home decor & flower shop. Perfect location for brunch or a coffee, and why not a glass of bubbly 🙂 (Lower Manhattan)

The Elk – coffee shop specialised in coffee, tea and small bites (West Village, I’d say)

Cafe Cluny – modern french restaurant (West Village)

Loosie’s Kitchen & Cafe – in Williamsburg

Lilia – italian restaurant in Williamsburg. We couldn’t get a table, bear in mind you need to book well in advance or to be very lucky that day 🙂

La Esquina – mexican food in Soho

Fancy a cocktail maybe?

Employees only bar

  Tried & tested in NYC Being asked multiple times about the places I've been to in New York City, I decided to summarise both my favourites, but also places I've got on my list but didn't have the chance to try out yet.

[travelotheque]

After visiting Burgundy couple of years ago & Champagne this summer, it was time to go to Bordeaux, one of the most acclaimed wine regions in France, but also a beautiful city.

There are direct flights from London with British Airways from Gatwick, but also with Ryanair from Stanstead or Wizzair from Luton, depending on the budget you’ve got to spend for getting there. Once there, I strongly recommend renting a car from the airport, if you want to go around a bit and explore more than Bordeaux city.

What to do in Bordeaux?

For me the best way to feel the vibe of the city is to walk around & adventure myself on the smaller & less crowded streets. However, there are definitely couple of must sees in the city:

Bordeaux Cathedral

Rue Sainte – Catherine – 1.2 km long pedestrian street, the main shopping street in Bordeaux

Place de la Bourse & Miroir d’eau – probably one of the most famous spots in the city

Porte Cailhau – which looks like a fairytale, perfectly resembling the Disney Castle

Porte de Bourgogne & Pont de Pierre over Garonne river

The Grosse Cloche

The City of Wine museum (Cité du Vin) – didn’t have time to check this place, but was on my list and would definitely go there next time I’m in Bordeaux

Darwin Eco-system – an alternative place with shops, restaurants & coffee places.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Where to eat or stop for a coffee in Bordeaux?

Le Chien du Pavlov

The Alchemist Coffee shop & the Dunes Blanches chez Pascal Bordeaux Patisserie right across the street. They are actually serving the choux à la crème fresh from the oven from the bakery 🙂

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

SIP Coffee Bar, Cafe Gusco, La Toque Cuivree Gamebetta for the traditional canelé.

Restaurant le 7 – panoramic restaurant at Cité du Vin

La Tupina – Maison Fredon (unfortunately not tried, had to cancel very last minute)

Where to stay?

Lots of options in Bordeaux city and its surroundings, it’s all up to your budget and preferences.

We stayed at Chateau Le Thil, in one of the 11 beautiful rooms & suites, each of them with its own charm and personality. Not only the rooms are well appointed, but the building itself is authentic and elegant. Chateau Le Thil is a historic house, built in 1737, situated just 1 mile away from Les Sources de Caudalie, where you can enjoy the spa & interior pool, a wine tasting, but also have dinner at their 2 Michelin star restaurant if you want to remain on site.

They also serve breakfast in the morning, a selection of cold cuts & different types of cheese, yoghurt, fruits, fresh baguette and pastries and of course coffee/tea and a selection of fresh juices & nectars. Breakfast is served in the breakfast room downstairs, but you can always enjoy a coffee & a croissant outside on the terrace.

You can also get bikes if you want to explore the surroundings, especially the vineyards.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Tried & tested Michelin star restaurants

La Grand’Vigne – Les Sources de Caudalie, 2**

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

L’auberge Saint Jean, in Saint Jean de Blaignac – 1*

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

If you’ve got more than a couple of days to spend in the area, you may considering a trip to Saint Emilion village, a World’s Heritage site and also to Dune of Pilat, Europe’s tallest sand dune nestled between the Atlantic Ocean, an enormous pine forest, the Arcachon Bay, a sandbank and a peninsula, making it a unique landscape in Europe.

Bordeaux After visiting Burgundy couple of years ago & Champagne this summer, it was time to go to Bordeaux, one of the most acclaimed wine regions in France, but also a beautiful city.

[travelotheque]

Dreaming of summer, I thought of writing about our holiday in Sicily. Being the second time we’ve decided to also explore the Palermo area and the west of the island, saving a couple of days for Noto, our favourite in Sicily.

We chose to stay in Mondello, 15min drive from Palermo, a charming coastal town, with a long stretch of white sand and beautiful turquoise water. In summer it gets very busy, so our advice would be to rent sun-beds and umbrella on one of the many private beaches so that you can enjoy yourself.

We found a beautiful airbnb, with the most amazing host. For us, there’s nothing better than having a host passionate about food & cooking. Not only that the room was lovely, fully separated from the rest of the house, with an en suite bathroom and a small private terrace, BUT (and here comes the best part of staying with Tiziana), the breakfast was include and it was AMAZING 🙂 Better than any hotel you’ve probably stayed in, at Tiziana’s we had a different (yes, you got that right) breakfast every morning. Tiziana was very flexible with the time for breakfast, and since she had to leave to work just before 9, she was arranging everything for us in the breakfast room. We were then enjoying it at our own pace.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Day 1. Apricot & melon salad, croissants & other pastries and quinoa salad with salmon. Plus a whole tart.

Day 2. Prosciutto on breadsticks, tomatoes salad with basil, buffala, cheesecake with homemade raspberry jam, croissants and some other pastries

Day 3. Handmade ricotta cake, cheese & nuts balls, watermelon, croissants, watermelon marmelade

She is also preparing dinner for her guests on request, however, since we were staying with her during the week, she was not able to accommodate our request. However, since she would do anything to please her guests, she arranged for us Sicilian tapas and a bottle of local white wine for us to enjoy and we couldn’t thank her enough for her kindness.

Couple of other benefits of staying with her: 15mins walk from the beach; there are bikes you can use if you fancy; plenty of parking spaces on the street next to the house; excellent location for exploring the area; a lovely and peaceful front yard & back yard.

This is where we’ve also discovered the book of Pino Cuttaia and Madia restaurant, 2 Michelin star restaurant, about which you can read here.

Day trips from Mondello:

Palermo – you can easily spend a day wondering the streets of Palermo and admire the beautiful buildings. Below a glimpse of what we’ve seen to give you some reasons that the city worth your attention: Fontana Pretoria, Quattro Canti, Chiesa di San Giuseppe, Cattedrale di Palermo.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Cefalu – a bit further away from Mondello, but still close enough for a day trip. You can do both: enjoy the beach of Cefalu in the morning, and wonder the streets of the little town in the afternoon. What to see: Chiesa di Cefalu & the little square just in front; Bastione  din Capo Marchiafava.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Trapani – another lovely town on the western coast of Sicily, which is worth passing by if you’re in the area.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Hope you find it useful, and remember you can always leave us a comment in case you’ve got questions or you want us to help you organising your trip to Sicily. More inspiration in one of our older posts.

  Sicily, a place we’ll always go back Dreaming of summer, I thought of writing about our holiday in Sicily. Being the second time we've decided to also explore the Palermo area and the west of the island, saving a couple of days for Noto, our favourite in Sicily.

[travelotheque]

This autumn we ended up in Pelion to attend our friends’ wedding. I was not expecting much from this region, as we all know Greece is about the dreamy islands, sandy beaches and turquoise clear water. Well, Pelion is a place of great natural beauty, the wonderland of Greece, still unexplored and authentic. Pelion is actually a mountain, 4h drive from Athens and around 3h drive from Thessaloniki, sprinkled with traditional villages and serene beaches. It’s a good destination for those looking for an active holiday, but also for those dreaming about lazy days at the beach.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Where to go at the beach?

Mylopotamos Beach – small beach, easily accessible, with parking available nearby. check  the weather before heading to the beach, when it’s windy, the beach is flooded

Damouchari beach – where Mamma Mia was filmed:)

Plaka Beach, Lampinou Beach, Fakistra Beach

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Where to eat?

Aggelika Taverna (next to Mylopotamos beach) – my favourite in Pelion as it had it all: the perfect setting, offering a view to the sea, incredibly friendly staff and delicious seafood (grilled, fried, boiled – it’s all up to you:) ) and a huuuuge basket of bread. Desert is always on the house in Pelion, but you may also order something from the menu if you fancy.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Can’t remember the name of this taverna and it’s almost impossible to find it on google maps, but it’s at Damouchari beach and it offers delicious grilled seafood (we have tried shrimps and the catch of the day), but also the famous fried anchovies (my absolutely favourite when in Greece).

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

But the best finding of this trip was Anapodo Platani. This hidden gem (and I mean hidden) is THE place to enjoy a glass of wine and some quick bites which Maria (the owner of this place) prepares herself with love for her guests. Located in a little square, with a gigantic plane tree in the middle giving shade to the entire square, this is a dreamy place to spend the entire summer.

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

I leave you with some more photos from Pelion, hoping it will give you a little inspiration for your next holiday:)

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

  Pelion, Greece This autumn we ended up in Pelion to attend our friends' wedding. I was not expecting much from this region, as we all know Greece is about the dreamy islands, sandy beaches and turquoise clear water.

[travelotheque]

When I first went to Core, I was extremely impressed with absolutely everything: from the elegance of the place (without being fussy), to the professionalism of the staff and the impeccable service, and of course the beautiful dishes.

And another thing that couldn’t go unnoticed was the seating at the tables – although we had a table for two, on one side of the restaurant, both chairs were orientated towards the room, so we both could follow the action around us. Don’t you hate it when one gets to enjoy the view, and the other ends up staring at the wall (and of course to his/her beloved one:) )?

Couple of weeks back, I was really pleased to find out that Clare Smyth and the team at Core has been awarded with 2 Michelin stars, as they truly deserve it.

We went to Core for lunch and we chose the small tasting menu (I always find it difficult to have more than 5-6 dishes for lunch and the point is not eating a lot, but enjoying each and every dish).

Lovely amuse bouche (Crispy smoked duck wing, burnt orange and spices & Cep and foie tartelette)

In house made bread & butter

‘Potato and roe’ – Clare’s signature dish

Skate with morecambe bay shrimps, Swiss chard, brown butter

Scottish Venison with smoked chestnut, pearl barley and whisky sauce

Core Apple pre-desert

Strawberries and verbena – meringue cup hiding a refreshing strawberry sorbet in the middle and a delicious lemon verbena cream, topped with wild strawberries

and the post desert, of course:)

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

All it’s left now is to book yourself a table and enjoy your meal at Core 🙂

https://www.corebyclaresmyth.com/

Core, by Clare Smyth When I first went to Core, I was extremely impressed with absolutely everything: from the elegance of the place (without being fussy), to the professionalism of the staff and the impeccable service, and of course the beautiful dishes.

[travelotheque]

Champagne region was for a long time on my list, but like any accessible location (just 1h30min drive from Paris), it got every year postponed. But not this year, and I’m very happy that we’ve finally made it. Especially at harvest, to feel the buzz and the energy of the place.

Where to stay?

For me there’s no place to stay in France than in a Chateau. Built in 1850 by one of Reim’s greatest architects,  initially for cloth merchants, Chateau de Sacy is one of the very few still standing pre WWI summer houses. After a year of refurbishment, this beautiful Chateau opened its doors in 2017.

Located in the middle of the vineyards, it offers a breathtaking view and a beautiful sunrise over Reims. We stayed in ‘Le Salon d’Eugénie’ superior room, one of the 12 unique rooms of the Chateau. We specifically asked for this room when booking, as I fell in love with all the images presented on their webpage. Breakfast is included in the room rate, and it’s served in the restaurant on their first floor, with view on the vineyards.

If you fancy, there is a small gym and an outdoor jacuzzi that you can use, but I’d highly recommend a walk through the vineyards in the morning, when the air is still fresh and crisp.

What to do?

Spend an afternoon in Reims.

Make sure you don’t miss the Cathedral of Reims. It’s not only probably one of the most beautiful cathedral in France (in my opinion it’s probably the best you can get), but it also has an impressive past. It was destroyed by a fire in early 1900s, and then damaged by bombing in the WWI. Both its interior and exterior are spectacular, and I guarantee you, you won’t be able to stop staring at its statues, arches and beautiful stained-glass.

Also, like every local in Reims, go and buy your baguette at Frederic et Isabelle Hardy boulangerie (bakery) and I promise, you won’t stop until it’s over 😀 😀

Take a cellar tour and champagne tasting at one of the numerous well-known champagne houses in the region. You’ll find out everything about the champagne process, the region history and you’ll also get to taste some bubbly. We went to Ruinart, and we couldn’t be happier as we were a small group and we could make the most of the tour.

Most of the champagne houses are in Reims or Epernay, and since they’re always busy, I recommend you book a tour in advance.

Drive around, stop & stare.

There’s no other way to explore the region, than by car. I highly recommend you to hire a car, as you’ll be able to make the most of your trip- get to explore every little corner, stop wherever and whenever to admire the beauty of the vineyards and of course, to take a photo, wander around the small towns in the region.

Stop in random towns. Little towns I would recommend for a stroll and for a quick bite: Ay (another beautiful cathedral) and Hautevillers, where almost every family is champagne producer 🙂

Useful links:

http://www.chateaudesacy-reims.fr/en/hotel.html

https://www.ruinart.com/en-us

    Champagne at harvest Champagne region was for a long time on my list, but like any accessible location (just 1h30min drive from Paris), it got every year postponed.

[travelotheque]

Somewhere in Sicily, in a town where time seems to have stopped and life to have a different pace, we found the amazing ‘La Madia’.

I have to thank to our airbnb host in Sicily, Tiziana, for having Pino Cuttaia’s  (chef at La Madia) cookbook, as this is how we found out about this amazing place. We were impressed by all the dishes presented in the book and we decided to check where the restaurant is and whether we could book a table for 2 days later – which was a bit daring given La Madia’s 2 Michelin stars.

Having a table confirmed, the fact that we had to drive the whole island to get there suddenly became of little importance.

We had Per le scale di Sicilia menu with 6 courses, each of them amazing in its own way.

Pizzaiola: merluzzo all’affumicatura di pigna

Mozzarella mousse wrapped in milk skin, accompanied by an amazing tomato (I mean the real, full of flavour Sicilian tomato) sauce

Polpo sulla roccia

Pasta minestra di crostacei

Pescato del giorno arrostito

The Sicilian cannolo, to finish with

La Madia was probably one of our best culinary experiences, in a lovely, unfussy place, with friendly people. Pino Cuttaia’s passion for cooking and talent was definitely felt throughout the entire meal, and we couldn’t be more happy to have him interacting with us. Hope to be back one day in this little gem, to enjoy more of Pino’s amazing dishes.

http://ristorantelamadia.it

    La Madia, Sicily Somewhere in Sicily, in a town where time seems to have stopped and life to have a different pace, we found the amazing 'La Madia'.

[travelotheque]

Initially planned as one day trip from Savannah, this teeny tiny town definitely deserves more than that! Cobblestone streets, horse drawn carriages, beautiful houses, particularly in the elegant French Quarter and Battery districts, all these made us fall in love with this Charleston and spend 2 full days enjoying what it has to offer.

    Where to stay?

We’ve stayed somewhere between Summerville and Charleston, 30min drive from Charleston, in a beautiful guesthouse, nestled in the Historic Plantation District. The highlights of this airbnb were the the hanging beds and the freshly baked bread and fresh eggs our host left for our use. Happy to share with you the place, just drop us a note.

  Where to eat or have a coffee?

Tried & tested and highly recommended

The Ordinary – lovely atmosphere in a restored historic bank, which dates back to the 1800s, serving fancy seafood and beautiful cocktails. We were there for dinner and we enjoyed a beautiful Smoked king Mackerel pate, Grilled New Orleans BBQ Style shrimps and the New England Style Fish Chowder. All delicious and highly recommended. This place takes reservations, but since it’s a popular venue in Charleston, make sure you book well ahead.

The Obstinate Daughter on Sullivan’s island, believe me, it deserves the 30mins drive from Charleston. Even better if it’s sunny, as you can also enjoy some time at the beach, for a walk or why not, for sunbathing.

  Leon’s oyster shop – for their grilled oysters and shrimps roll. The best is that they do have both outdoor and indoor seating, suitable no matter the weather. Bear in mind they don’t take reservations, so be ready to wait. The good things is that you can get some drinks while you wait.

  Jeni’s Splendid icecream – absolutely the BEST ice-cream we’ve ever had: unusual flavours like ricotta, toast, wild berries and geranium jam or goat cheese with sour cherry, but also the most delicious waffle cone, prepared in the shop, so that the smell delights you as you enter.

  The Daily – for sweets and coffee. Don’t miss the phatty cake here or the chestnut brownie.

  Black tap coffee – perfect for a coffee break and an almond croissant. It offers the same coffee as the Daily and it has super cool customers:)

  Revelator coffee and The Eclectic Cafe & Vinyl – two other places serving great coffee

Not tried, nor tested, but researched 

Darling oyster bar for dinner/cocktails

Chez nous – french cuisine as the name suggests

Macintosh, FIG, Cannon Green, Lewis BBQ, Butcher & Bee, Sugar Cakeshop

Things to do

Visit one of the plantations around Charleston: Magnolia Plantation, Middleton Plantation or Boone Hall

Learn about life in antebellum Charleston through the lives of Aikhen Rhet or Nathaniel Russell, and plan a visit to the houses they’ve lived in

Visit Sullivan’s beach, 30mins drive from Charleston. Eat at The Obstinate Daughter or Poe’s tavern.

Take some photos of the Rainbow row along East Bay Street

Go and see the famous Pineapple fountain, which stands in the Waterfront Park (walking distance from the Rainbow Row)

Rent Bikes and cruise around south of broad

Wander in the French Quarter and the Battery districts and admire the beautiful antebellum houses

          Charleston, South Carolina Initially planned as one day trip from Savannah, this teeny tiny town definitely deserves more than that!

[travelotheque]

Dining at La bottega del buon caffe is one of those experiences you’ll never forget. Why is that? Because sometimes is not all about the food you’re eating, is about the way food is presented and served to you, about the polite and attentive staff and nevertheless, the the place itself. And La bottega del buon caffe has it all.

I loved the open kitchen, as I find it an excellent two way communication. Without mentioning that I’ve probably got the best seat in the restaurant, I was happy to watch how the plating was done, and how much passion was actually behind each and every plate they were sending to the tables. I can assure you that seeing this makes you appreciate even more the dishes.

At the same time, an open kitchen gives the chef the chance to keep an eye on people reactions when they first see, and later try the dish, because he’s always at the counter. It’s the surprise and joy on people’s faces that is the most honest feedback the CHEF could ever get back from the diners.

What impressed me the most and what made this dining experience memorable to me, was the fact that all the dishes were extremely tasty and well thought through, with no exception.

My favourite dishes: the veal tongue, celery, red prawns, citrus fruit and liquid parsley, the cappelletti pasta with pigeon, butter and thyme, and of course the cheesecake.

All photos are mine, except the feature photo (copyright https://www.borgointhecity.com/en/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe/ )

La bottega del buon caffe, Florence, Italy Dining at La bottega del buon caffe is one of those experiences you'll never forget. Why is that?

[travelotheque]

From time to time we’re trying to escape London, even just for the weekend, not only to recharge our batteries, but also to enjoy this beautiful country. Only 2 hours drive away from London, you find yourself in Kent. Need some tips to picture Kent on the map? Cathedral of Canterbury and the White Cliffs of Dover, does any of these ring a bell?

Where to stay?

The Duke William – lovely pub with rooms in Ickham, 10 minutes drive for Canterbury. It’s perfectly located to be a good starting point for short trips in the area: Canterbury to visit the Cathedral and to wander around the city, Whitstable for fresh seafood and for a walk on the pebbled beach, Dover for a walk on the White Cliffs of Dover and for a visit to the Castle of Dover.

We loved the cozy rooms (we’ve stayed in MPW), but also the modern pub downstairs which serves a beautiful cooked Cumberland Sausage with Savoy Cabbage & Mash Potato and an amazing Apple Crumble with Honeycomb icecream. DELICIOUS!

https://www.thedukewilliamickham.com

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

The wife of Bath – restaurant, tapas bar and rooms upstairs, this was one of our options we looked at for staying, however they had no availability for the weekend we wanted. But since we couldn’t have missed the opportunity to pass by, we stopped for Sunday lunch. Really nice food, excellent service and lovely atmosphere. We definitely wanna go back and stay with them for a weekend, maybe next summer.

https://www.thewifeofbath.com

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Going to Whitstable and looking for a place to eat? The Whitstable Oyser company, a lovely restaurant next to the beach, a perfect spot not only for lunch on a sunny day in summer, but also a cozy place on a rainy day. The food was great and the service excellent, we can’t wait to be back.

http://whitstableoystercompany.com

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

Processed with VSCO with f2 preset

  Weekend getaway in Kent From time to time we're trying to escape London, even just for the weekend, not only to recharge our batteries, but also to enjoy this beautiful country.

[travelotheque]

For all the foodies out there, Piemonte should be on your bucket list as being the 2nd most Michelin awarded region in Italy.

Can’t decide which restaurant to pick? Here are some of our recommendations meant to make the selection easier.

Antiche Volte, Fossano – this place is truly special to us, we can’t find enough words to describe how much we love it!

http://www.palazzorighini.it/antiche-volte/?lang=en

La Ciau del Tornavento, Treiso – beautiful setting, overlooking the vineyards towards the Alps.

https://www.laciaudeltornavento.it/it/

Da Francesco, Cherasco – absolutely a MUST is the WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, PASSION FRUIT, BITTER CACAO CRUMBLE, probably the most memorable dessert we’ve ever head.

http://www.ristorantedafrancesco.com/it

Marc Lanteri Al Castello – our favourite was the Vitello tonnato

http://www.castellogrinzane.com/en/ristorante

Guido, Serralunga d’Alba – excellent Piedmontese cuisine, making this restaurant a must for fans of the region’s gastronomy. Loved everything, from the joyful design of the menu to the beautiful steak tartare,

http://www.guidoristorante.it

Where to stay? There’s no better place in the region as Palazzo Righini! This place is like a fairytale!

http://www.palazzorighini.it

See you soon, Piemonte!

Tried & tested in Piemonte, Italy For all the foodies out there, Piemonte should be on your bucket list as being the 2nd most Michelin awarded region in Italy.

[travelotheque]

For those planning a trip to Peloponesse, we’re happy to share a few places we fell in love with.

Monemvasia, lovely cute town located on a small island in the South-East of Peloponesse. The Castle town of Monemvasia is said to be one of the most impressive places in Greece, and we must confess that’s so true. The town was entirely carved on the back of a sea rock, back in the medieval times, to protect people from enemy’s attacks. Initially the only way to reach Monemvasia was by boat, however later on they’ve added a bridge connecting it to the mainland. While exploring the narrow streets has its charm, don’t miss the view from the top of the castle, it’s gorgeous.

Best time to visit: avoid going there in the summer, as this tiny town is invaded by people and this might steal its beauty. Instead plan a trip for September, definitely less people and you feel you’ve got everything for yourself.

The lazy cats of Monemvasia, loads of them, everywhere 🙂

One hour drive from Monemvasia and another 10minutes by ferry, you can find a piece of heaven, the Elafonisos island. Head to Simos beach and enjoy the soft sand and the clear blue water. A great place for snorkelling.

Not much to do in Sparta, but if it happens to be around, looking for great traditional greek food, I’d suggest you go to En Hatipi. This family taverna is a lovely place, hidden on a small street far from the centre, offering delicious dishes.

One of the places not to be missed in Peloponesse is the Eumelia Organic Farm & Guesthouse. We discovered Eumelia by chance, while researching for a farm producing and selling olive oil, because hey, how could we leave Greece without at least a bottle of olive oil in your suitcase?

Eumelia is a serene, peaceful place, located in the middle of an ancient olive grove. It was a quiet day at Eumelia, but we we’re lucky enough to find Frangiskos, the owner of this beautiful place. He was kind enough to give us a tour of the place, telling us the story of the really old olive trees in the surroundings and how he opened the guesthouse. They’ve got 5 beautiful houses, each of them unique, Frangiskos and Marilena using a different theme for decorating. We’ve got no photos from the inside, but we can confirm they’re just lovely.

We’ve also been offered an olive oil tasting, and we couldn’t be happier about it. The olive oil was not only extremely tasty, but the packaging and branding of their extra virgin organic olive oil won the graphic design award ΕΒΓΕ 2017 in the category olive oil bottle. A bottle to keep in your kitchen forever and why not, use it as an decorative object?

Thank you Frangiskos for having us, looking forward to seeing you soon and staying in the Almond Tree house:)

http://www.eumelia.com

  The most beautiful places in Peloponesse, Greece For those planning a trip to Peloponesse, we're happy to share a few places we fell in love with.

[travelotheque]

There are endless possibilities when it comes to choosing a restaurant in London, so we hope our list of recommendations will give you some ideas on where to stop next. Here are some of the restaurants we’ve been trying in the last year or so, places we’d be happy to return to.

Mele e Pere – modern trattoria in Soho, serving Italian food.

http://www.meleepere.co.uk

Bocca di Lupo, Soho – authentic italian dining, serving dishes from all over Italy. Always full, make sure you book a table well in advance.

http://www.boccadilupo.com

The Duck and Rice, Soho – go here if you’re craving for good chinese, especially the pekin duck.

http://www.theduckandrice.com

Dock Kitchen, Ladbroke Grove – experimental kitchen, always adapting the menu, so no chance to get bored with this place.

http://www.dockkitchen.co.uk/about.php

Ostuni, Queen’s Park – lovely Italian restaurant, serving delicious Puglian dishes.

http://www.ostuniqueenspark.co.uk/about/

Maggie Jones’s, Kensington – cosy and romantic restaurant, themed like an old barn, serving classic dishes, beautifully cooked.

http://www.maggie-jones.co.uk

We’ve been at Tapa Room, Marylebone, once for brunch and we were delighted with their Turkish eggs (two poached eggs on whipped yoghurt, hot Aleppo chilli butte toasted sourdough or seeded granary bread) and the Grilled chorizo (sweet potato miso hash, a soft boiled egg, garlic labne, star anise cashew nut praline). Both delicious!

http://www.theprovidores.co.uk/taparoom

The Harwood Arms, in Fulham – the only pub with a Michelin star in London. Check our dedicated post on the link below

https://travelotheque.com/2017/09/12/the-harwood-arms-michelin-star-gastropub-in-london/

Craving for sushi? We’re absolutely fans of Zen Mondo, Islington. Again, more details in the dedicated article, link below.

https://travelotheque.com/2017/09/04/londons-best-sushi/

  Lyle’s, Shoreditch – casual michelin star dining in London. We absolutely loved the place.

https://travelotheque.com/2017/08/23/lyles-casual-michelin-star-dining-in-london/

The Shed, Notting Hill – for those craving for some delicious tapas, this our favourite restaurant in London. Must try: the chorizo and the lamb chips

https://travelotheque.com/2017/08/17/fancy-a-tapas-restaurant-in-london/

Luca – lovely Italian restaurant in London, somewhere in Clerkenwell. Don’t miss here the parmesan fries.

https://travelotheque.com/2017/08/15/luca-restaurant-an-italian-in-london/

We promise to keep this up to date with our most recent culinary experiences.

  Where to eat in London Tried & tested There are endless possibilities when it comes to choosing a restaurant in London, so we hope our list of recommendations will give you some ideas on where to stop next.

[travelotheque]

Geneva is like second home to us, we’ve been living there for a couple of years before moving to Budapest and later on to London (our current home).

Going back feels like we would have never left the town, with one exception – the new places which have been opened in the past years, which we’re very happy to try. Old is good, but somehow new is always better 🙂 At least for us, every new experience makes us richer and educates our taste.

At the recommendation of a friend living there, we’ve tried Osteria della Bottega, where we’ve enjoyed both the atmosphere and the food.

Located in the old town, like its name suggests, Osteria della Bottega is a small Italian restaurant, with modern, yet minimalist decor, offering dishes from different regions of Italy. It’s all tempting, so despite the relatively reduced menu (not that typical for an osteria), trust me you’ll have difficulties in choosing what to have.

What did we have?

Bread & focaccia accompanied by olive oil to begin with, a must for every meal!

For starter we had the “Panzane” salad, squid and basil – a salad inspired from Tuscany with crunchy bread, tomatoes and squid

Burrata and mixed leaves – no description needed, as I’m sure you’re all aware of how tasty such a basic Italian dish can be 🙂

As mains, we chose the Filled rabbit, chantere e mushrooms and almonds – dish typically Piemontese and the Fetuccine with octopus and tomatoes sauce. Both of them really nice and definitely recommended, especially the rabbit with was soft and extremely tasty.

Next time you’re in Geneva make sure you book a table with them. And if you’re into michelin star dining, you could check their other restaurant, La Bottega. Looking forward to trying this next time we’re in town.

http://www.osteriadellabottega.com/en/

http://www.labottegatrattoria.com

    Osteria della Bottega – Tried&tested in Geneva Geneva is like second home to us, we've been living there for a couple of years before moving to Budapest and later on to London (our current home).