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The Vine

Vitis Vinifera- European wine-making vines.  American Vines- Resistant to phylloxera The Anatomy of the Vine: Bud- 

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Wine and Food

Components in FOOD that tend to make wine taste harder (higher perception of alcohol, more astringent, bitter, and acidic. less sweet & fruity, decreases the perception of body): Sweetness, Umami & Chili Heat Components in FOOD that tend to make wine taste softer (less astringent, less bitter, less acidic. higher perception of body, sweeter and fruitier): Salt & Acid ‘Sweet dishes should be paired with wines that have higher sweetness levels than the dish. ‘Balanced, high-tannin wines will retain balance and be less effected by the perceived bitterness caused by Umami in food than low-tannin reds or white wines made with oak or skin contact.  ‘Dishes high in acid should be paired with wines of moderate to high acidity. Wines too low in acidity may seem flabby and unfocused, overshadowed by the acidity in the dish.  ‘Bitter dishes should avoid bitterness in wine, as they may amplify each other. ‘Dishes containing chili should avoid high alcohol wines that would increase the burning sensation of the peppers.  ‘Generally, flavor intensity should be matched in food and paired wine. Certain intensely flavored dishes like curry can be successfully paired with simple, unoaked, non-aromatic whites.  ‘Foods high in fat can be pleasantly “cut” by wines very high in acid, also giving a pallet cleansing sensation. ‘The sweet and salty combination of blue cheese and sweet wines is a classic, and the concept can be a successful experiment with other dishes. 

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Condition of the Wine and Faults

TCA (Trichloroanisole/Corked)- One of the main causes is a tainted cork. Gives wine aromas of damp cardboard. It will mute fruit flavors and make a wine seem less fresh. 

Reduction- Stinky characteristics of boiled cabbage/onions or blocked drains. Low levels of reduction are not always considered a fault. Can dissipate once a bottle has been opened. Result of reductive wine making= limiting oxygen contact of fermenting wine. “But you might be able to pick out “reduced” notes. These generally result from the presence of a volatile sulfur compound, or mercaptans, and can be the result of reductive winemaking. Wine needs a certain amount of oxygen to polymerize (have its molecules combine), and if it doesn’t, the reduced notes may come in.” -winespectator Sulfur Dioxide- Added to almost all wines, but levels tend to be highest in sweet wines. High levels of sulfur can give wines the scent of recently put out matches. Lower levels of sulfur can mask fruit characters of wine, and not enough sulfur can lead to oxidation. 

Oxidation- the opposite of reduction. Usually resulting from the failure of the closure allowing unwanted oxygen to interact with the wine. Wine will appear deeper in color/more brown than typical. Causes aromas of coffee, caramel, honey, and toffee. Sometimes intentional.  Volatile Acidity (VA)- Exists in all wine. Low levels can add complexity, high levels can cause vinegar/nail polish remover.

Brettanomyces “Brett”- Yeast that can give plastic or animal aromas like sticking plasters, hot vinyl, smoked meat, leather or sweaty horses. Low levels not always perceived as a fault.

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Systematic Approach to Wine Tasting.

Primary Aromas & Flavors

Primary aromas: the aromas that exist after fermentation. some come from the grapes, others are created during the fermentation process.  Secondary aromas: created by post fermentation winemaking. Result of oak contact, malolactic fermentation, and lees contact. Oak aging resulting in vanilla/toast aromas/flavors, creamy/buttery from MLF, and yeasty/biscuity flavors resulting from lees contact.  Tertiary aromas: develop during the aging process. could be the result of oxygen contact from extended periods in barrel, or by lack of oxygen from long periods spent in bottle. fruit aromas become less fresh and can develop into cooked/dried fruit characteristics. coffee, toffee, caramel notes can develop from oxygen contact. petrol, honey, and mushroom can develop from bottle aging. 

Youthful- A wine dominated by primary or secondary characteristics.  Developing- Most of the aromas are primary/secondary, but tertiary have begun to show.  Fully Developed- predominant aromas are tertiary, some primary/secondary aromas are present but well integrated.

Sweetness of a wine: *

 Floral: acacia, honeysuckle, chamomile, elderflower, geranium, blossom, rose, violet Green Fruit: apple, gooseberry, pear, pear drop, quince, grape Citrus Fruit: grapefruit, lemon, lime (juice/zest), orange peel, lemon peel Stone Fruit: peach, apricot, nectarine  Tropical Fruit: banana, lychee, mango, melon, passionfruit, pineapple Red Fruit: redcurrant, cranberry, raspberry, strawberry, red cherry, red plum Black Fruit: blackcurrant, blackberry, bramble, blueberry, black cherry, black plum Dried/Cooked Fruit: fig, prune, raisin, saltana, kirsch, jamminess, baked/stewed fruits, preserved fruits Herbaceous: green bell pepper (capsicum), grass, tomato leaf, asparagus, blackcurrant leaf Herbal: eucalyptus, mint, medicinal, lavender, fennel, dill  Other: flint, wet stones, wet wool

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Start at the beginning:

Alcohol levels in still wine- low: below 11% alcohol medium: 11-13.9% alcohol high: 14% alcohol and above Alcohol levels in fortified wine- low: 15-16.4% alcohol medium: 16.5-18.4% alcohol high: 18.5% alcohol and above Color of wine- The balance of levels of red, blue, yellow, green or brown found in a wine. White and most rose wines appear very pale and almost colorless at the rim, so they are best judged at the core where there is sufficient depth of liquid for the color to be easily assessed. Many red wines are so deeply pigmented that they can appear opaque at the core, so their color is most accurately assessed at the rim.

”Intensity: described as ‘pale’ ‘medium’ or ‘deep’ respectively”

White: Lemon green= notable greenness to the color. Lemon= most common color for white wine. Gold= notable hint of brown or orange in the wine. Amber/Brown= notable level of browning, could be the result of extensive age or deliberate oxidation.

Red: Purple= young wines, notable hints of blue or purple. Ruby= most common color for red wine. Garnet= notable hints of orange/brown, but the wine is still more red than brown. Tawny= when the wine is more brown than red. Brown= no redness in the color remains. generally old wines/deliberate oxidation.

Rose: Pink= wines that have a very pure pink color, may display hints of purple. Salmon= wines that display hints of orange. Orange= wines in which orange is the dominant color.

“Legs/Tears: streams of liquid that adhere to the side of the glass after the wine has been swirled.” *Wines that contain sugar or high alcohol levels are more viscous and have thicker, more persistent legs. Some red wines are so intensely colored that the legs are visibly pigmented.* *Some wines can have a deposit, potentially indicating that the wine is unfined/unfiltered.* *Petillance: slight carbon dioxide spritz in still wines. can be the result of a fault, or the result of intentional bottling with dissolved carbon dioxide in light bodied, unoaked wines to add freshness and texture.*

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Where to even begin..

So starting this week I’m going to write a small article every week about a different aspect of wine. As a mock up of my at-home-tasting-classroom dream, but also to keep the creative juices flowing and get my nose in the books again. Just a few paragraphs, nothing too ambitious. A lot like what I was already doing on this to study. Now to figure out what this weeks will be.....

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Southern Italy

Climate and Grape Growing: Hot & dry inland, becoming humid near the coast. The slopes of the Apennines provide some relief from the heat. Vineyards located on the flatter terrain of the Puglian peninsula are cooled by sea breezes.  Cordon training and trellising are the most common methods used today.

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Sweet Wines

Techniques: Stopping the Fermentation-  Fortification is the traditional way of stopping fermentation while sugar is still present. Kills the yeast, alters structure of the wine. Can also be stopped by adding high doses of SO2 or by chilling the fermenting wine. Wine must be filtered to remove any yeast, vital that no yeast comes into contact with the wine. Results in wines with low alcohol. Popular in: High quality German Kabinett + Spatlese, Asti from Italy.

Adding a Sweetening Component-  Particularity in Germany, medium-sweet wines can be made by the addition of unfermented grape juice, or Süssreserve: a portion of selected unfermented grape must, free of microorganisms, to be added to wine as a sweetening component. This is made by filtering the juice before fermentation starts, or dosing with SO2. Süssreserve is added to dry wines when they are ready to be bottled. RCGM can also be used to achieve the same effect. Concentrating Grape Sugars: Noble Rot- Most of the very best sweet wines Sauternes, Tokaji, Beerenauslesen, + Trockenbeerenauslesen from Austria and Germany. Caused by fungus Botrytis Cinerea. 1st grapes must be fully ripe. 2nd grapes must be grown in area with humid, misty mornings followed by sunny, dry afternoons. Damp morning conditions allow fungus to grow, fungus punctures skins with microscopic filaments, leaving tiny holes. Warm, sunny afternoons slow the development of the rot and evaporate water, concentrating the acids, flavors, and sugar. Noble rot = honey, apricot, citrus zest, + dried fruit aromas.  The spread of the rot is never uniform, hand picking may be needed to select the best grapes. Expensive and time consuming. Conditions are not met for perfect rot every year. Drying Grapes on the Vine- “Passerillage”. Once grapes have reached full sugar ripeness, they begin to dehydrate and turn to raisins on the vine increasing sugar concentration in the juice. Warm dry autumns are needed to avoid grey rot. Overripe fruit character of dried + tropical fruits, richly textured mouthfeel. Labeled “Late Harvest”. Drying Grapes After Picking- Conditions must be dry and warm, all rotten grapes must be removed. Used in passito wines in Italy such as Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG. Raisiny quality. Freezing Grapes on the Vine- Healthy grapes are left on vines into the winter months. Ice remains in the pressed grapes increasing the sugar content. Used for Eiswein in Germany and Icewine in Canada.Very pure varietal character. Can be replicated artificially by freezing picked grapes. 

Rectified Concentrated Grape Must(RCGM):  A sugar solution, derived from grape must. Ideal for sweetening wine or enriching must, without modifying the character of the wine or compromising stability. 

Bordeaux: The top sweet wine appellations of Bordeaux are grouped on the banks of the Garonne river and its tributary the Ciron. The rivers create the ideal misty autumn conditions for noble rot to develop of fully ripened grapes.  The best wines come from Sauternes, which lies on the west bank of the Garonne. Within Sauternes lies the village of Barsac. Producers can either label their wines “Saternes” or “Barsac” Semillon dominates these appellations because of its thin skins and susceptibility to botrytis(noble rot). Sauvignon Blanc = refreshing acidity and fruity aromas. Muscadelle = exotic perfume.  The best wines tend to be high in alcohol, sweet yet balanced by acidity, display apricot + citrus aromas of noble rot along w/ notes of toast + vanilla from oak fermentation/maturation. 

Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux: Sweet wine appellation, unrelated to Cotes de Bordeaux. Monbazillac: Appellation in Dordogne. Similar climate to Bordeaux, less moderating maritime influence. A source of good value botrytised sweet wines made from Semillon and Sauv Blanc.  Jurancon: Appellation in South West France. Most important, complex sweet wine come from the high acid grape Petit Manseng. No botrytis, undergoes passerillage. Pronounced apricot + grapefruit aromas, sometimes spicy notes from oak.

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Head Training: Relatively little permanent wood/some only a trunk. Others have a few short arms of permanent wood growing from the top of the trunk. Can be spur-pruned or replacement cane-pruned.  Cordon Training: Typically have a trunk with one or more permanent horizontal arms or “cordons”. These vines are usually spur-pruned. Takes longer to establish because the larger amount of permanent wood, but makes mechanization in the vineyard easier to achieve. Vines normally have one or two cordons, but can be used to create big vine structures with 4+ cordons.  Spur Pruning: Short sections of one-year-old wood that have been cut down to only two/three buds. Spurs are either distributed along cordon of permanent wood or around the top of the trunk.  Replacement Cane Pruning: Canes are longer sections of one year old wood and can have 8-20 buds. Typically only 1 or 2 canes are retained and each is tied horizontally to the trellis for support. Most often seen in head trained vines. *More complex then spur pruning + requires larger skilled labor force to choose suitable canes and train them. Referred to as “Guyot” training.” 

Untrellised Vineyards: No trellis system, shoots will hang down often as far as the ground. Known as “Bush Vines”, typically head trained and spur pruned. Unsuitable for mechanical harvesting. *Best suited to warm-hot, dry, sunny regions such as Southern Rhone + Barossa Valley in Australia where extra shade helps protect grapes.* *In cool/wet regions, shade can impede grape ripening and the lack of airflow can promote disease.* *Avoided in Beaujolais. Instead the Gobelet system is used where shoots of head trained, spur pruned vines are tied together at tips to expose bunches to air and sunlight.* Trellised Vineyards: Each row of vines requires a line of posts joined by horizontal wires.Vine’s canes and shoots are tied to the trellis. This is known as “Canopy Management”. (FINISH LATER)

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Climate Overview

Cool Climate: Average growing season temperature of 16.5`C (62`F) or below. Moderate Climate: Average growing season temperature of 16.5`C (62`F) to 18.5`C (65`F) Warm Climate: Average growing season temperature of 18.5`C (65`F) to 21`C (70`F) Hot Climate: Average growing season temperature in excess of 21`C (70`F) Continental Climate: High Continentality = greatest difference in temp between hottest and coldest months. Usually characterized by short summers w/ a large, rapid temp drop in autumn.  Cool continental climates i.e Chablis + Champagne = risk of spring frost, low temps throughout growing season can affect flowering, fruit set + ripening. *Better suited for varieties that bud late and ripen early.* Noted for having dry summers, so if temps are high irrigation may be necessary.

Maritime Climate: Cool to Moderate temps, low continentality. Rainfall tends to be evenly spread throughout the year, moderating temperature. Temps may be warm enough for grapes to ripen into autumn. *This is why Bordeaux can ripen thick-skinned Cabernet.* Rainfall in spring may be harmful to flower set and health of grapes at harvest. Mediterranean Climate: Also low continentality, but summers tend to be warm and dry. Conditions found throughout the Mediterranean (coastal areas of the Mediterranean sea), coastal California, Chile, South Africa, and South Eastern Australia. Extra warmth and sunlight, compared to maritime climate, leads to wines that are fuller bodied with riper tannins, higher alcohol and lower acidity. Lower rainfall.

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Cover to Cover: Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir:  `Early budding. `Early Ripening. `Thin skins.  Best grown in cool + moderate climates. If planted in a region too hot, the fruit   becomes jammy + unattractive. Wide style range. Light + fruity w/ red cherry notes -> complex + earthy w/ spice and forest floor flavors.

*Cote d’Or, Burgundy have greater intensity and complexity. From delicate + almost floral -> more tannic and spicy. Cooler vintages run risk of under-ripe grapes = vegetal notes of cabbage + wet leaves.  *Baden, Germany known for HQ PN. *Los Carneros + Sonoma, CA known for HQ PN. *Martinborough, Malborough, + Central Otago, New Zealand known for HQ PN. *Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, + Tasmania Australia known for HQ PN. *Walker Bay, South Africa known for HQ PN. *Casablanca Valley, Chile known for HQ PN. 

Treatment of the grapes: `Destem + crush the fruit.Typically a period of pre-fermentation maceration takes place to max color + flavor extraction from skins. `Including a proportion of whole berries in the ferment = enhancing red fruit flavors + floral characteristics. Whole bunches are gradually crushed by a series of punch down operations, fermentation continues on the skins once the grapes have been broken up. `Common for ferment. temps to rise above 30`C. Cooler temps = lighter, fresher styles. Warm temps = more color, flavor, tannin to be extracted for longer aged wines. `Post fermentation not widely practiced. `Premium wines are often aged in 2nd-3rd use oak barrels in small proportions for 12-24 months. `Not usually blended with other varieties.

Burgundy:

*PN is particularly susceptible to Grey Rot.  *PN accounts for over 1/3 total vineyard area.

Classic Burgundian PN had red fruit flavors in youth that evolve into flavors of earth, game, and mushroom as the wines mature. “Tend to have high acidity, low -> medium tannins, but can vary from vineyard, vintage, and producer” Use of whole bunches has become more popular. Normal for best wines to see 16-18 months of aging, best see some new oak depending on producer. 

Key Villages of Cote de Nuits (with their most famous grands crus sites): `Gevrey-Chambertin ( Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Beze), `Vougeot (Clos de Vougeot), `Vosne-Romanee (Romanee-Conti, La Tache, La Romanee), `Nuits-Saint-Georges. Many of the fullest-bodied, longest lived PN are from the Cote de Nuits. All of the red Grands Crus, except for one, are produced on Cote de Nuits. *Cote de Beaune makes PN in a fruitier style.  Germany: Spatburgunder: 3rd most planted variety in Germany. Thrives in warmer vineyard areas like Pfalz + Baden.  `Wines are dry and either relatively light and fruity or made in a more concentrated style that often includes oak aromas. 

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Chateau Calet Blaye Cotes De Bordeaux, 2012

“Cotes De Bordeaux” are a group of lesser known red wine appellations that have agreed to go by such title. The wines from these appellations tend to be Merlot based and meant for early drinking. The best can offer excellent value.

Medium Ruby color Med+/Pronounced Intensity on the nose Primary Aromas: Blackberry, violet, black current, white pepper, licorice, plum. Secondary Aromas: Cedar, toast, clove, chocolate, coffee. Tertiary Aromas: Leather, game, fig, cooked red plum. Developing

Dry Med+ Acidity Med+ Tannin Medium Alcohol (13.5%) Med+ Body Med Flavor Intensity Primary Flavors: Prune, plum, blackberry, asparagus, wet stone Secondary Flavors: Clove, cedar Tertiary Flavors: Earth, tobacco (Still struggling with tasting notes over aromas..) Med+ Finish Very Good Quality Can drink now, potential for aging.

My notes:

This is the kind of wine in which I really need a second opinion. While looking for an official tech sheet or makers notes, I looked at some other people’s reviews of this more basic level Bordeaux. While the fruit character is a little subdued, (I’ll see what happens leaving it open over the course of the night) it is funky and gamey, not overly oaked or totally lacking in classic Merlot characteristics. (Blend is about 90% Merlot, I believe.) The body I am no longer totally sure of, as the alcohol and tannin structure do give it a notable backbone.. I can see how this may be seen as a french table wine with a fancy title if not given much thought, time, or attention. Regardless, I do believe when left to air and examined thoroughly, this is a delightful, clean (for being 5.5 years old), and balanced expression of just how good Bordeaux is even at its lower levels of prestige. Personally loved it, and believe it is justifiably balanced and complex. 8/10