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TIPS FOR HELPING FAMILY GET ACCUSTOMED TO A BIRD WHO BITES

Most of us will have times in our bird's lives where they will bite for seemingly no reason. Just recently, my dad walked in and tried to play with my Green Cheek Conure, who was sitting on my mother's finger. He bit my mother hard enough to draw a considerable amount of blood. Sometimes birds bite for no reason, but sometimes we can teach our family members who aren't as in tune with our feathered friends how to look for signs of aggression!

Teach your family about your individual bird. 

This is key! All birds are different, so what makes one bird want to bite might make another bird want scratches and cuddles.

Teach your family how to look for signs of aggression. 

Signs of aggression include puffed up feathers, angry noises, and moving back and forth. If a finger goes near an aggravated bird, they may lunge to bite. Angry noises can be little huffs, certain words your bird associates with anger, or a loud purring noise

Tell your family when it's time to step back. 

If you sense that your bird shouldn't be touched, tell your family not to touch them. They may want to pet your bird really bad, but at the risk of a nasty bite, it's best to step back. Don't be afraid to speak up about your bird, you know your bird better than anyone else and if you think it's time they stop playing, tell them.

Don't allow someone to pet an aggravated bird. 

Allowing this is bad for several reasons. The key point is that the bird will probably bite. Another reason is that if a person doesn't head a bird's warnings, the bird may not trust that person in the future, which could ruin a potential relationship your family member could have with your bird.

Offer to supervise playing time when your bird is happy. 

Just like when you first gained your bird's trust, each person must gain the trust of our feathered friends. Making sure your bird is happy and in the mood to play is a good time to start gaining their trust! Supervise the playing to make sure the bird isn't getting cranky, that the family member isn't provoking the bird (remember, even things we think are normal can trigger cranky behavior in our fids!), and making sure they're getting along.

Finally, if your bird doesn't like a family member, that's okay. 

Birds are complex and can't express why they don't like someone. Maybe men remind them of someone from their past, or someone with glasses reminds them of a past owner who never interacted with them. Birds may never trust certain family members, and that's normal. Make sure that the bird has limited interaction with that family member, and if the sight of that family member aggravates the bird, move the bird to another room. Birds sometimes bite even their owners in the presence of people they don't like!

With these tips, everyone can get along. If you have other tips, feel free to pass them along, and remember never to throw your bird into an entirely new situation all at once. Even timid birds can lash out when they are scared or apprehensive about situations.

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 © 

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THE COST OF AN EMERGENCY

Hey everyone, I wanted to make a post about my personal experience with the healthcare cost of a small bird who has an emergency and MUST see a vet.

Emergencies are called emergencies because they don't come with a warning. There is no way of knowing that your healthy bird will suddenly go into a downward spiral before it happens, and knowing the cost of care and preparing for an eventual need for that money will help you make the best decision for your bird.

In my area, the cost of WALKING INTO AN EMERGENCY CLINIC THAT WILL SEE BIRDS is $105. I paid this amount because my bird is a green cheek conure and is small. Larger birds and larger animals cost a lot more money in most emergency clinics.

They examined my bird and gave me two care options: Keep him over night and observe him while giving him oxygen (the obvious choice) or give him injections of antibiotics and anti-regurg medicine and send him home (I didn't want to do this).

The first option started out at $700, with an option to pay $800 for additional medications he may have needed, including medications that could save his life if his condition worsened.

The $700-800+ came with a specialist's exam in the morning, but I would have paid much more for any follow up testing the specialist wanted to do (including a $200 radiograph)

The second option (and the one I ultimately chose) cost $196. This option included two shots, observation for a short time, and a round of antibiotics, as well as the ease of mind that I could spend another $55 in the morning getting my green cheek checked out by a specialist (and even more for testing).

This emergency is ongoing and if I need to, my particular clinic will see us again for free in the emergency room for up to 72 hours. Other clinics may not do that.

I AM NOT TRYING TO SCARE ANYONE AWAY FROM GETTING A BIRD OR GOING TO THE VET. I would not have thought twice about spending the money I did on my bird, and the only reason I couldn't have him stay overnight is because my clinic DOES NOT finance. You pay up front and they "refund" services not rendered.

It is important that everyone knows the cost of emergency health care (and regular health care, my last visit to the vet cost me roughly $400 for a blood test and antibiotics) so that they can make an educated decision whether they are capable and ready to take on the huge responsibility of caring for a bird.

If you do have a bird, consider getting a Care Credit card (in the US) to help alleviate the immediate costs of emergency and regular avian veterinary care. Pet insurance is also available worldwide but may not help pay upfront, which is why it is crucial you have funds in some form to immediately pay for care.

It may just save your bird's life.

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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Vomiting and Regurgitation

It is very difficult at times to differentiate regurgitation and vomiting. Both involve bringing up food and expelling it from the beak.

Regurgitation to a mate, person or toy is a normal part of breeding behavior. A bird that is regurgitating or vomiting will make a head-bobbing and neck-stretching type of movement. Food will be brought up and deposited on the bird’s toys or mate. Such controlled regurgitation usually does not result in staining of the feathers or the beak. Bacterial, viral and fungal gastrointestinal causes, obstructions, toxins and liver or kidney problems may also cause regurgitation or vomiting. Vomiting, on the other hand, is usually a rapid flick of the head, which is often not noticed by pet bird owners. Tell-tale signs of vomiting in birds is the flicking of small pieces of ingesta around the cage and on top of the birds head.  Food may become caked on the bird’s head giving it a spiky, matted appearance. Vomiting often occurs along with regurgitation and is a serious clinical sign. If you suspect that this behavior is the result of illness, a veterinarian should examine your bird.

Causes (mainly causes of vomiting)

INFECTIONS

Bacterial: Mycobacterium, megabacteria,Pasteurella, Salmonella, and many other gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria

Fungal: Candida, Aspergillus, Mucor

Viral: Pacheco’s Disease, polyomavirus, pox virus, papillomatosis, Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease, adenovirus, herpes virus, paramyxovirus

Parasitic: Capillaria, Plasmodium, tapeworms, Trichomonas, Giardia, roundworms, coccidia

Other: Proventricular Dilation Syndrome, Macaw Wasting Disease, Neurotropic Gastric Dilitation

Comment:  Infections with gram-negative bacteria are one of the most common causes and often secondary to stress, another illness, or fecal contamination of food or water, and are one of the major causes in smaller birds; abscesses may form in some cases; Candida is also often secondary to another illness or stress; Trichomonas is a common cause, especially in budgies; pox virus and tapeworms are more common in imported birds

DISEASES OF OTHER ORGANS

Heart disease

Liver disease

Pancreatitis

Kidney disease

Diabetes mellitus

Peritonitis

Septicemia

Electrolyte imbalances

Trauma

Comment:  Heart disease is more common in toucans and mynahs; liver disease, especially hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver) andhepatitis, is a common cause in many bird species; trauma includes flying into a window or the bite of another animal which may cause internal bleeding or infection

NUTRITION

High protein diet

Hypervitaminosis D

Hypovitaminosis A

Hypovitaminosis E or selenium deficiency

High iron levels

Food allergy

Formula at wrong temperature or consistency

Overfeeding

Change in diet

Comment: Young birds are especially sensitive to the temperature and consistency of the food, and the amount given at one time; abnormal vitamin levels occur over a long period of time

TOXICITIES

Heavy metals: arsenic, copper, lead, zinc

Plants: See Poisonous Plants for Birds

Foods: chocolate, nicotine, salt, moldy or spoiled foods, avocado, alcohol, cigarettes

Pesticides/insecticides: carbamates, lindane, organophosphate, rotenone, arsenic

Household products: cholecalciferal, rubbing alcohol, chlorine, teflon, detergents, pine oil, aluminum chloride (deodorants), potassium chloride (matches), nitrate, phosphorous, thallium

Comment: Zinc and lead toxicity are common causes; heated teflon such as on frying pans and ironing board covers is very toxic.

GASTROINTESTINAL DISEASE, BLOCKAGE, OR COMPRESSION

Goiter

Ascites

Aerophagia (swallowing air)

Crop conditions: impaction, stasis, crop burn

Egg binding

Gastrointestinal conditions: foreign body, intussusception, volvulus, stenosis, hernia, ileus; grit impaction; ulcers

Esophageal stricture

Neoplastic: papilloma, leiomyoma, adenoma, fibroma

Comment: Conditions which take up space in the chest or abdomen can put pressure on the digestive system; crop conditions are more common in young and hand fed baby birds; papillomas in the mouth are also common

DRUG REACTIONS

Antibiotics: doxycycline, polymixin B, trimethoprim/sufadiazine, sulfadimethoxine, enrofloxacin

Antiparasitics: fenbendazole, praziquantel, levamisole

Anti-fungal medications: fluconazole, itraconazole, or ketoconazole

Only give these medications to a bird under direct supervision of a veterinarian, and closely follow the directions; contact your veterinarian if your bird is taking any medication and shows new signs of illness

BEHAVIOR

Motion sickness

Courtship

Excitement or stress

Normal weaning behavior

Comment: Courting behavior to other birds, mirrors, toys, or even owners is a common cause

How is the actual cause determined for a specific bird?

It can be very difficult to differentiate between regurgitation and vomiting, and even hardier to determine an exact cause. The veterinarian will need a complete history, including:

When the condition started

How often it occurs

Other signs of illness noticed by the owners

Whether the condition is related to a certain event, e.g.; after eating, while playing with toys, etc.

What the bird is fed

How the bird is housed

The sanitary conditions

Access to potential causes such as foods, household items, toxins, and exposure to other birds

Presence of the condition in other birds

Medications or supplements being given to the bird

Display of any courtship or nesting behavior

Other diseases the bird may have or has been treated for either currently or in the past

Comment: The diagnosis requires careful observation of the bird and a complete physical examination. If at all possible, bring the bird’s cage along with you to the veterinarian’s office, because it can often offer significant clues. Laboratory tests including a complete blood count, chemistry panel, and a fecal exam to look for parasites are often needed. Radiographs may help determine a diagnosis. An endoscope may be used to view the upper digestive tract and collect samples. The bird’s mouth or anal area may be swabbed and a culture and sensitivity performed to determine if a bacterial or fungal infection could be the cause. Specimens from the crop will also be viewed microscopically and cultured. Blood may be tested for the presence of viruses or antibodies to them.

How is vomiting or regurgitation treated?

The treatment of vomiting will vary considerably depending upon the cause. Supportive care in the form of stable temperatures, fluid therapy for dehydration, nutritional management (sometimes withholding food may be necessary) are very important. Depending upon the severity of the illness, the bird may need to be hospitalized. Other therapies may include:

Giving medications to treat infections

Changing the diet

Providing appropriate therapies for diseases of other organs

Removing the toxic agent from the environment and/or the bird

Performing surgery or endoscopy to remove foreign objects or tumors and to correct other intestinal blockages

If a bird is regurgitating often and the cause is determined to be behavioral, it may be helpful to remove the toys or mirror that are the focus of his regurgitation.

Original Article

Second Original Article

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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Happy Hut safe Alternatives

Here’s a small list of a few safe alternatives to Happy Huts

WARE® Tunnel of Fun Small Animal Tunnel 

Hide N Sleep Birdie Condo Medium

Canvas Bird Hut

Happy Huts (they are called happy huts but they are handmade and safe)

Skippy Hut

This list will be added to as new alternatives are found.

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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WING CLIPPING- MYTHS AND FACTS

There are countless comments and posts about clipping wings. It is a very controversial topic. One of the reasons it is so controversial could be because there are so many myths about wing clipping being circulated. This post is intended to address these myths. Everyone has their own personal opinions on this matter and this post is NOT the platform to share your opinions why you should or shouldn’t clip. This is an educational post created to help those who choose to clip their bird’s wings do so in a safe and informed manner. 

 MYTH – Clipping a bird’s wings causes them to be unable to fly. 

FACT – This is completely untrue. If done correctly, a clipped bird will still be able to glide down to the ground and even catch wind outside if they are spooked. Flying is a natural instinct for birds and they will fly regardless of their wing shape if they get spooked.  

Even birds with partially amputated wings can fly with enough effort- wings should not be clipped under the assumption that it will take away a bird’s ability to fly.  

MYTH - Clipping a bird's wings makes me a bad owner 

FACT - Clipping a bird's wings is a personal decision best left to the owner and their avian vet. Wing clipping does not make someone a bad owner, though someone wishing to clip their bird’s wings should educate themselves before making their decision  

MYTH – I should clip my bird’s wings so that they have little to no flight feather left (a high up cut) 

FACT – This myth runs rampant throughout every bird group. It is usually quick to be extinguished but just in case you find yourself in a situation where someone offers this advice, here’s the truth.  

Clipping a bird this high up is unsafe due to the potential for blood feathers being clipped, and it also takes away a bird’s ability to fly away from danger. 

There are several guides on how to safely clip a bird’s wings but if you feel like you are not totally confident, please consult an avian vet. DO NOT cut a bird’s feathers super high up, they will most likely suffer life-long consequences and also be unable to defend themselves by flying away from danger should they ever be in a situation where they are in danger.  

MYTH – Clipping my bird’s wings makes it okay to take them outside unrestrained (without a harness or cage) 

FACT – Unless a bird has NO wings at all, there is NO safe way to take them outside unrestrained. As stated above, properly clipped feathers will still allow for SOME flight. Taking your bird out unrestrained- clipped or not- is never a good and safe idea. The ONE exception to this is free flight training, which isn’t 100% for all birds in all cases. 

There are countless instances of otherwise loving and responsible owners taking their birds outside believing they would be safe because their wings were clipped. These owners then watched their bird fly off after being spooked or carried away by wind. Not all of these owners got their birds back.  

No matter how much you trust your bird, you should never trust the environment. A clap of thunder or bird of prey could cause a spook, or a sudden gust of wind could carry your bird off of your shoulder.  

Especially with clipped birds, birds do not usually have extensive flight training. A sudden gust of wind could carry them away and even if they want to come back to you, they are unable to. They aren’t skilled enough to or are stuck high up in a tree and are too scared to come down.  

Summary – Birds can still fly when their wings are clipped properly, even if it’s just a glide indoors (outdoors with wind it could be an uncontrollable flight for an untrained bird). Wings should never be clipped high enough up that a bird bleeds or has life-long issues. In addition, clipping a bird’s wings is intended as a measure for SAFETY INDOORS and should not be used as a bird’s outdoor restraint. It is ineffective and most birds can still fly away outdoors. Taking an unrestrained bird outside clipped or not is not safe.

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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Food List

For those of you having trouble reading the photo files, I have typed out the lists for you for the lists to help you feed your conure.

A Parrot’s Flour List • Almond • Amaranth • Barley • Buckwheat • Coconut • Garbanzo • Kamut • Millet • Oat • Quinoa • Rye • Spelt • Teff It is best to avoid any white, bleached, unhealthy flours 100% Whole Grain flours are best

A Parrot’s Berry List • Blackberry • Blackcurrant • Bilberry • Blueberry • Cranberry • Goji Berry • Hawthorn Berry • Logan Berry • Mulberry • Raspberry • Redcurrant • Rosehips • Rowanberry • Strawberry

A Parrot’s Do Not Feed List • Avocado • Alcohol • Caffeine • Chocolate • Dairy Products • Dried/Uncooked Beans • Fried, Greasy or Junk Foods • Fruit Seeds/Stone Pits/Pips (see below) • Mushrooms • Nutmeg • Onion • Peanuts • Rhubarb • Salty and Sugary Foods • Tomato leaves, vines, stems Do not feed legumes/beans in a dry and uncooked state. Legumes/Beans are acceptable to feed once soaked and thoroughly cooked. Do not feed seeds/pits/pips from the following fruit: Apple, Cherry, Peach, Pear, Plum, Nectarine, Lychee, Apricot.

A Parrot’s Fruit List • Apple • Apricot • Banana • Cactus Fruit/Prickly Pear • Cantaloupe • Cherry • Clementine • Coconut • Date • Damson • Dragon Fruit • Fig • Grape • Greengage • Guava • Honeydew • Jackfruit • Kiwi • Kimquat • Lychee • Mandarin • Mango (Ripe/Peel) • Mangosteen • Nectarine • Orange • Papaya • Passionfruit • Pawpaw • Peach • Pear • Persimmon • Pineapple • Plum • Pomegranate • Quince • Rambutan • Satsuma • Star Fruit • Tangerine • Watermelon Do not feed seeds/pits/pips from the following fruit: Apple, Cherry, Peach, Pear, Plum, Nectarine, Lychee, Apricot. Safe seeds: Melon seeds, papaya, pomegranate, kiwi, cantaloupe Feed fruit sparingly

A Parrot’s Grain List (Ideal for Cooking or Sprouting) • Amaranth • Barley • Buckwheat • Corn (Dry Kernel) • Kamut • Millet • Oat Groats • Quinoa • Rice (Short Brown/Black/Red/Wild) • Rye • Spelt • Teff • Triticale • Wheat

A Parrot’s Herb List (Ideal for Flavouring in Small Amounts) • Anise • Basil • Coriander/Cilantro • Dill • Fennel • Lemon Balm • Mint • Oregano • Parsley • Rosemary • Sage • Thyme

A Parrot’s Nut List (Ideal for Treats in Small Amounts and Foraging) • Almond • Brazil Nut • Cashew • Hazelnut/Filbert • Macadamia Nut • Pecan • Pine Nut • Pistachio • Walnut ***Do not feed Peanuts*** Peanuts harbor mycotoxins and aflatoxin a fungal toxin that can be deadly to Parrots causing a respiratory disease known as Aspergillosis. Some nuts such as the Macadamia nut contain a higher level of fat/calories than other nuts and may be more suitable for certain parrot species that require that extra intake. Do consult your Avian Technician as to which nuts are more suitable for your parrot.

A Parrot’s Spice List • Aniseed • Cayenne Pepper • Celery • Chili • Cinnamon • Cumin • Dill • Fennel • Ginger • Fenugreek • Paprika • Red Pepper • Turmeric Avoid feeling Nutmeg to parrots as this spice contains Myristicin. If consumed it may suffer from dizziness, nausea and vomiting.

A Parrot’s Vegetable List • Artichoke • Beetroot +Greens • Bok/Pak Choy • Broccoli/Broccolini/Broccoli Rabe • Brussel Sprouts • Cabbage (Red/Green/Chinese) • Capsicum • Carrot +Greens • Cauliflower • Cavolo Nero • Celery (Destring) • Celeriac/Celery Root • Chard • Chicory/Radicchio • Chickweed • Collard Greens • Corn • Courgette • Cress • Cucumber • Daikon Radish • Dandelion Greens • Endive • Escarole • Green Bean • Jicama • Kale • Kohlrabi • Lettuce (Dark Green/Red Leaf Varieties/Romaine) • Mange Tout • Mustard Greens • Okra • Parsnip (Peel) • Pea (Green/Snow/Sugar Snap) • Peppers +Seeds (Banana/Bell/Chili/Jalapeno/Serrano/Hot/Sweet) • Pumpkin +Seeds • Radish +Greens • Rapini • Rocket/Arugula • Squash +Seeds • Spinach (Limit) • Swede/Rutabaga • Sweet Potato (cooked) • Tatsoi • Tomato • Turnip +Greens • Watercress • Yams • Zucchini

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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Photos for admin use

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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BIRDIE BREAD RECIPE (Adapted)

There are many birdie bread recipes out there that are designed to be a treat for your bird. This recipe is actually designed for fussy birds that won't eat their veggies and does not contain ingredients that would not be suitable for your bird to eat every day. So think of this is a healthy birdie bread recipe to help parronts with fussy fids :D

UPDATED 10th April 2016 (Have been experimenting for some time now and think this is the best mix that is not too dry and not too moist)

Ingredients

1 cup pellets 1 cup rice flour (use whatever flour you wish but try to keep away from wheat flours. Quinoa is a good choice) chia

1 x carrot 1 x small Sweet Potato 1 x apple

2 x bananas

1 decent head of broccoli Spinach leaves (you can also use kale) Use a nice big handful

1 egg (include shells if you wish)

Method

Preheat oven to 180C 356F

Blend the pellets into a powder and add the rice flour and chia in. (Set this aside until later)

Peel and slice the sweet potato and cook in microwave until soft. Blend in food processor to make smooth (I add a bit of coconut oil). Peel and core apple, slice carrot and cook together in microwave until soft. Blend in with sweet potato. Cut up the broccoli and blend with other ingredients. Blend in the two bananas. Blend in the spinach leaves. Blend in the egg.

You should now have a fairly runny mixture. Now put half the flour/pellet mix in and blend all together. Once this is blended in, add the other half. Once the mix is properly blended, you should have a mixture that is fairly easy to mix with a spoon. If the mix is too dry, you can add another egg and blend that through. If the mix is really runny, you might want to add another half a cup (or more) of rice flour, or ground pellets.

Once you are happy with your mixture, grease a baking dish with coconut oil, line with baking paper and spoon in your mixture so it is sitting nice and even. Cook it on about 180C 356F for roughly 30 - 40 mins. You can tell it is cooked by poking with a skewer, if the skewer is clean, it should be cooked. Leave to cool in the dish for about 15 mins and then tip the cake out onto a cooling rack and cool.

You can cut the cake into serving sizes, freeze it and defrost as necessary. I usually put about 3 pieces in the fridge in a sealed container and that will last about 3 days.

You can really use whatever fruit and veggies are available to you that you know will be safe for your bird(s). I aim in this recipe to keep everything as natural as possible. Processed foods are not good for humans and are definitely not good for birds either.

Good luck with your birdie bread, feel free to let me know how you go

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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Lists to help you feed your Conure correctly

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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WARNING ABOUT HAPPY HUTS

Happy huts can be dangerous! Many birds have been seriously injured or killed by using happy huts. I am referring to the fluffy little beds that you hang in your bird's cage for sleeping in.

It is not up to us to tell you what you can and can't do with your bird, but we can strongly urge that if you haven't introduced your bird to a sleeping hut, then consider not doing it at all.

The first danger of fleecy/fluffy huts is chewing. Many birds like to chew their huts and over a period of time, the fibres build up in their crop and if it is not noticed and treated, the bird will most certainly die. “My bird doesn’t chew his hut” I hear you saying. Well a member of our group didn’t think her bird was chewing her hut either and when a necropsy was done after she died, the crop was full of fibres from the hut. This was a lesson she should have not had to learn in such a tragic and heartbreaking way.

The second danger of fleecy/fluffy huts is loose threads. There have been countless posts in bird groups of birds being caught in loose threads when the owner is not home. Parrots panic very easily and when they are caught, will do anything necessary to free themselves, including chewing off their own foot. Being caught in such a way in the wild would make them easy prey to predators, so their natural instinct is honed to escape as soon as they can at whatever cost. Many birds have also panicked themselves into a heart attack and have died.

Another danger about happy huts that is not discussed very much is the fact that in some birds, it can totally make your bird into a hormonal little demon. The hut can seem like a good "nesting" spot and we all know how protective birds are of their nests. So this is sometimes a risk that is worth thinking about when introducing your bird to a "bed" of any type. Also, if you have a female bird and she is a chronic egg layer, a hut will most definitely contribute to the sort of environment that will stimulate her egg laying instincts.

These happy huts are sold in almost every pet shop in the world and unfortunately they are only about making money. The makers and sellers have no regard for your bird's safety and will not shed a tear for you if your bird is affected.

I introduced my Charlie to a happy hut when he was a baby. I even had an incident where he woke me in the night and I found him dangling by his neck from a loose thread. Luckily for me, I was able to free him and he wasn't hurt in any way. But many people are not lucky like me. I continued to use the hut in spite of what had happened, and never had another incident in 7 years. Recently I started noticing how many birds had been killed by these huts and even though I knew Charlie wasn't chewing his hut, I decided it was time to look for an alternative.

I now have a 100% canvas hut that Charlie is very happy to sleep in (Pictured below with Charlie as the model). Because it is canvas, it is very safe and I have no fears about any chewing. It is secured to the cage by velcro straps, so has no clips or ropes that could be dangerous. There is also another hut that is made from kangaroo leather and other bird safe materials that is made by a friend of mine, that would also be another safe alternative to the fluffy huts.

So, my message is still, please don't introduce huts to your bird if you haven't already. I know it seems nice to give them a bed to sleep in, but the dangers of doing so are pretty high and I am sure you want to keep your bird safe.

If you have already previously introduced your bird to huts and like me, couldn't bear to take it away without an alternative, please look into a safer hut like the canvas one or one of the other ones you can see around the bird groups.

If you choose to ignore all warnings and continue using a fluffy hut, then please please please keep a close eye on it and make sure that your bird is not chewing it or that it has loose threads. We want to stop having to look at posts where birds are dying from these death traps. There are some links to some rather disturbing posts by a local vet here that will also open your eyes to what can happen to a bird that chews these huts. Please don’t look if you can’t handle these type of images.

Thanks for reading

Here’s a link to the hut Charlie now has.

Below KEEP READING are graphic photos of what happy huts can do.

Below are photos of surgical procedures. They are graphic. Viewer Discretion advised. 

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

Photos and captions from: Brisbane bird vet

Foreign bodies must be the hot topic this month! Social media seems to be alive with warnings and we have had many people contact us for advice. We see many cases of cloth foreign bodies. Some are relatively easy to palpate in the crop and can be removed with fairly little risk, others can be lower in the gastrointestinal tract. These can be more difficult to diagnose and surgery to remove theobstruction will be at a higher risk. Usually by the time these birds present to us they are underweight, vomiting and extremely lethargic. We have a very short amount of time to diagnose and perform this surgery. Unfortunately not all cases survive. So how can we prevent this from occurring? Foreign bodies are commonly made up of fibres from happy huts, cotton toys, cage covers, fleece, curtains, carpets or even pet hair. The majority of owners are unaware that their birds are even chewing these items. They take small fibres which build up internally over a long period of time. We recommend using natural based toys such as sisal, seagrass, abaca etc. All birds should be monitored with new toys and if they appear to be ingesting any material then the toys should be removed and replaced immediately. We find many birds ingest their toys out of a lack of enrichment. When given options for food based foraging this can change their behaviour to prevent unwanted destruction and ingestion of these items.

These five Quaker chicks had a close call on Christmas Eve after chewing and swallowing small fibres from a happy hut in their brooder. After noticing some suspicious green flecks in the crops of these babies, their worried owner rushed them down to us at Brisbane Bird Vet for emergency treatment. Luckily Dr Kathryn was able to remove the offending threads before they passed further through the gastrointestinal tract to cause internal damage or a blockage, which may have required invasive surgery to treat. These lucky babies even made it home in time for Christmas! Cloth or cotton foreign bodies are common in pet birds that have access to happy huts, cotton toys, cage covers, fleece, curtains, carpets or even pet hair. This case goes to show that birds are never too young to get into mischief – with the smallest baby only 9 days young, this is a record for us!

B2 is a Varied Lorikeet who had a recent visit to us at Brisbane Bird Vet. He presented underweight and unwell with a distended abdomen with a firm mass palpable within. His radiographs and blood tests suggested that he had chronic inflammation and it was elected that an exploratory laparotomy was the next step. This is where we open the abdomen, under general anaesthetic, to explore what the mass might be. We found that his proventriculus (first stomach), was grossly enlarged. A foreign body was highly suspected at this stage which was confirmed when we incised the stomach. A large cloth foreign body was removed. If this wasn’t removed B2 would have slowly starved or bled to death from internal haemorrahage. This is a common condition that we see in birds that have access to cotton or cloth in various forms such as happy huts, cotton toys, cage covers, fleece, curtains, carpets and even pet hair! We recommend using natural based toys such as sisal, seagrass, abaca etc. All birds should be monitored with new toys and if they appear to be ingesting any material the toys should be removed and replaced immediately. Enrichment also assists in giving birds alternate behaviours. This was a huge procedure for such a little bird. He sailed through the surgery well and made a rapid recovery.

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Moving with Your Bird

You've got everything set: The movers are scheduled, the boxes are packed (well, most of them, anyway), the old house has been sold, the new one rented, and the kids are registered at their new schools. But there's one more worry: How will your pet manage the move? Just like children, each bird has his or her own personality, and each will respond differently. Some will mope in their cages, nervous and shy; others will squawk, indignant at having to make a change. Still others – particularly those well-traveled birds that have been extensively socialized and exposed to lots of new situations – will take the move in stride.

Making a Stress-Free Transition

About a month before you're supposed to leave, take the bird to the vet, to make sure there are no underlying illnesses that might cause problems in a stressful situation, such as a move.

If you are moving to another state (or another country) check to see which documents – general health certificates, proof of vaccinations, etc. – are required. If you are moving abroad, check on the quarantine policies of your final destination – and those of any countries you might be passing through.

Older parrots that have not been well socialized will be most traumatized by being uprooted. Try to keep schedules and daily routines close to what the bird is used to.

If your bird becomes so stressed that he starts feather picking, get him to a vet right away. (African Grey parrots are particularly prone to this behavior.) Feather picking needs to be controlled immediately, before it becomes a habit that cannot be broken.

If you're traveling by air, give the bird time to become accustomed to his carrier before you head for the airport. Place him in the carrier for short periods of time over a couple of weeks, rewarding him for staying inside, and talking to him encouragingly.

If you'll be traveling by car, small birds can often make the trip in their familiar cages. Remove swinging objects or toys that could fall and injure the bird and make sure he has fresh food and water available at all times. Keep temperatures consistent – not too hot and not too cold.

If it is to be a long trip, make sure you pack a portable perch, water bottle spritzer (for showers), food, fresh water and treats.

Be extremely careful when opening the bird's cage or taking him out of his carrier while you're on the road. The bird is likely to be startled more easily in unfamiliar situations, and even though his wings may be trimmed, he may be able to get enough lift to get away from you.

As soon as you arrive in your new home, pick a spot for the bird's cage. Remember that he is a flocking animal and wants plenty of company. He should be able to see most of your family's activities, but still be able to have a little privacy when he feels like being alone.

If possible, try to place the bird's cage in an area similar to the one he inhabited in the last house. Make sure his space is free of drafts, and that there are no escape routes (doors or windows) that can be left open. Also keep in mind other kinds of hazards: ceiling fans, stoves, etc. The kitchen, especially, is an area to avoid.

Once your bird's cage is set up, don't change his toys or perches for a while. Arrange the cage in the same manner as it was in the last house, so that it will seem familiar and comforting to the bird.

Find an avian vet in your new neighborhood. Check with local bird clubs or aviaries for recommendations.

Original Article

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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Tips To Make Moving With Your Parrot Easier

Moving is the worst. The packing. The chaos. The unpacking. The chaos. The only good thing about moving is the excuse it gives you to buy new stuff. Moving with parrots complicates matters even more and if you aren’t prepared, it can make things unnecessarily stressful for youand your bird.

It makes sense that a parrot would be uncomfortable with a move to a new location. They are a prey animal that must be very vigilant about their surroundings in order to avoid becoming some predator’s lunch. Familiarity would provide them with a feeling of security. When you know your environment like the back of your hand, so to speak, it is easy to spot when something is amiss – and that perception keeps a bird safe.

When a bird is moved into a new environment, it has to rebuild that familiarity and the sense of ease that comes with it. We can’t do that for them, but we can help make the transition easier.

It is true that some species of parrots might be better equipped to handle change than others. Some species characteristically experience discomfort when new things suddenly appear in their environment or when old things change. But most relevant is YOUR bird’s ability to adapt to change. Hopefully, you have made efforts to keep your bird flexible prior to this move.

Things to keep in mind:  

Parrots are very social creatures and know that their safety lies in part with their alliance with a flock. In captivity, you are your bird’s flock and it will do your bird good if you are able to arrange time off from work so that you can be there for the first couple of days.

This is not the right time to buy your bird a new cage. It is a familiar thing that has provided security up until now. Let it continue that role in the new house. In fact, I would suggest you keep everything inside the cage the same until you are sure your bird is comfortable enough to endure further change.

Move your bird’s cage ahead of time – even if that means he spends the day in a carrier while you are setting it up in the new location. It will be comforting to your bird to have the cage ready upon his arrival. (This will also eliminate having to subject your bird to the exasperation and cursing that takes place during cage assembly.)

Choose the new location for the cage thoughtfully. Be sure it is a comfortable location that is away from nearby opening and closing doors (or other sources of constant activity) and views that might be distressing (such as the headlights of passing cars at night or hawks flying outside).

Move your bird into the new house LAST – after all the furniture and boxes are at least temporarily relocated. Allow the new house to be as settled as possible so your bird doesn’t have to deal with the turmoil.

Birds have a tendency to match the energy levels of those around them. In the wild, this benefits them because tension in the flock is a warning that something is wrong. Therefore, birds are very responsive to our tension. Try to keep yours in check.

Things that do not work:

Letting your bird “gradually adjust” by moving him back and forth between the old and new place before the final move does not play out the way you intend it to. Since we know that moving is stressful for a bird, it makes no sense to prolong that stress. Let there be one awkward move for the bird to cope with, not several that take place over a series of weeks.

Putting a cover over your bird’s cage while movers take out or bring in furniture and boxes does not create a barrier between your bird and any unsettling commotion. It just makes it difficult to see what is going on. This will only add to your bird’s insecurity about the situation and make the move harder in the end.

Don’t force your bird to explore the new house. Let him grow comfortable with the room where he will be mainly located before you require him to address any other strange, new rooms. They will still be there when he is ready to experience them.

The success of a move with a parrot lies more in the advance prep work than anything else. You have to know your bird well enough to know how to avoid exceeding his threshold of tolerance. You have to be able to anticipate problems that might arise and be prepared for them. Your aim should be to make the move as seamless as possible.

Original Article

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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Airline Travel with Your Bird

At times, pet owners find themselves forced to make travel decisions involving their pets. Sometimes finding accurate information about the "how-to's" and requirements is difficult, especially when that pet is a bird. By following this list of recommendations, your planning and trip should be simplified, and hopefully, stress free, and enjoyed by both you and your bird.

What to do before the flight...

Contact the airlines first, making sure they 1) accept birds in the cabin and 2) to make an advanced reservation for your bird if they do. Most airlines will only allow two pets of any kind in the cabin per flight.

Purchase an airline-approved cage that will fit under the seat in front of you. If you have a bird that is too large to stand upright in a cage of this size, you will have to either purchase a seat for your caged bird (if the airlines allow this) or look into having it shipped by a company familiar with specialized shipping requirements. Be sure the cage has a very secure latch.

Firmly attach a rough-surfaced perch such as rope or natural wood, toward the front of the cage. A food dish can also be attached to the door.

Familiarize your bird with this new cage before traveling.

Clip your bird's wings and nails. This will make it easier for you as the handler and prevent an unfortunate loss if your bird somehow "escapes" in the airport.

Fortify the diet with stress-formula vitamins and minerals for a week before, during, and a week after traveling.

Obtain a health certificate for your bird within 10 days of your departure. The health certificate is valid for 10 days. If you will be staying at your destination more than 10 days after the date of issue of the certificate, you will need to obtain a second health certificate for your return trip. Check if the airlines have additional requirements. Understand that the requirements to return to your country may be different than those to leave it and travel to another. There may be more stringent quarantine restrictions upon your return. In the United States, if you wish to take your bird abroad, you must obtain all necessary documents from USDA and the Department of the Interior's U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service before departing the United States. The telephone number is 301-734-3277.

Clearly label the cage with a "live animal" sticker as well as your own personal identification, including where you can be reached at your destination.

Do NOT line the bottom of the cage. Given today's security issues, you may be asked to remove your bird and all the contents from the cage if the bottom is not clearly visible.

Do NOT ship on a connecting flight. If you must ship your bird separately, use a direct flight whenever possible and ship "counter to counter." This way, your bird will not be left in a drafty and cold, or hot cargo area waiting for your pick up. Rather, it will be taken inside the airline terminal to the ticket counter.

Just before leaving...

Plan to arrive at the airport at least two hours early, but check with the airlines…it may be earlier.

Confirm your flight (and all connections).

Give your bird plenty of opportunity to drink water.

Put fresh, watery fruits and vegetables in the food dish. Good choices include watermelon, cantaloupe, red or green grapes, red, green, or yellow peppers (not the hot kind), and cooked acorn or pumpkin squash. (If your bird is not used to these foods in its diet, start to slowly add them to the diet in the week before you leave.)

What to do at the airport...

Inform the ticket counter at check-in that you have a pet, with a reservation. Present the health certificate, if requested, and keep both the health certificate and receipt for your bird's travel together and close at hand.

Request that your bird be "hand" searched with a wand rather than x-rayed if this becomes necessary.

Remain calm at all times and be as helpful as possible. Many airline and security personnel are under stress, as well as being unfamiliar with birds.

Stay with your bird as long as possible if shipping separately. This will relieve stress for both you and the bird.

Double-check all identification material and stickers on the cage.

Confirm flight arrival for your bird if shipped separately and be prompt to pick her up at the arrival counter.

Once on board, airline personnel will instruct you as where to stow the cage. If small enough, it will generally go under the seat in front of you. Drape one of the light airline blankets loosely over the cage, except in front, to prevent drafts from reaching your bird while still allowing for circulation.

If you are traveling with a large bird and have purchased a separate seat, strap the cage into the seat securely with the seat belt by weaving the belt through two or three bars on both sides in the front of the cage before engaging the clasp. Drape the cage with the airline blanket (unless you have brought along your own cage cover).

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TIPS FOR CAR TRAVEL WITH PARROT

Each year thousands of families hit the road for vacation with plans to take the family pets, even parrots, on their excursion.  Before embarking on a cross country trip, though, review our Six Tips for Car Travel with Parrots to insure hassle free trip where your pet bird is safe, secure and fun to be around.

PACK ESSENTIAL BIRD SUPPLIES

Since your parrot will do best with minimal disruption to its usual routine, bring along familiar bird food and bird toys.  Also pack bird cage cleaning supplies such as Poop Swoop Wipes, Aviclean and paper towels.  A bird harness and a portable bird stand like The Percher will keep your parrot safe and give it out of cage time.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Make an appointment with your veterinarian to provide grooming services and issue a current health certificate.  Make sure that you prepare a packet that contains the health certificate, a current picture of your parrot and a record of its leg band number and microchip number.  Ask your avian veterinarian to refer a Vet in your destination town in case your bird has a medical emergency in route.  Remember, it is always better to

TRAVEL BREAKS

When you take travel breaks, check on your bird to insure that it is not too stressed, has fresh water and food and its cage is not too soiled.  If weather permits, your bird may appreciate some fresh air and sunshine.   A harness trained bird will welcome putting its bird harness on and stretching out.

SECURE THE BIRD CARRIER

A loose bird can distract you, crawl under the gas and brake pedals and pose a risk of flying out an opened door.  Always travel with your bird in a secure carrier in the back seat, secured by a seat belt.  A sudden stop may propel an unsecured bird carrier off of the seat and slam it into the back of the front seat.  NEVER put the bird carrier in the front seat because if the air bag deploys it can kill your bird.

SAFETY DURING THE DRIVE

If your bird is not used to traveling, it will find the trip stressful.  Motion sickness is not uncommon.  Some people find AviCalm or Herbal Relaxation Calming Formula soothes their parrots’ nerves.  If your bird experiences motion sickness, reduce the amount of feedings and cover the cage.  Talk to your bird to sooth its anxiety.  Keep the car temperature as stable as possible and insure that your bird is not exposed to drafts from air conditioning or open windows.  If you are using an enclosed carrier, make sure it is out of direct sunlight. Also, please be sure to not smoke in the car with your pet bird.

ARRIVING AT YOUR DESTINATION

One you arrive at your destination put your birds’ temporary cage in a quiet, draft free location.  If you’re staying in a place that has dogs, cats or a lot of commotion, your parrot will feel more comfortable near where you sleep. Insure your bird is not exposed to holiday fragrances or other dangers.  Take your bird out of the bird carrier and allow it to exercise on its portable bird stand at least twice daily.  Stick to your birds’ usual routine as much as possible.

With these tips, you should have a safe and pleasant holiday with your pet bird!

Original Article

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Basics of Traveling with Parrots

Before you attempt that cross-country ride, give your pet bird experience on shorter trips. Visit a nearby friend or relative, have a snack at an outdoor café, or even pick up some toys at a pet store. Provide some fun destinations: that is, somewhere other than the avian veterinarian or groomer.

A few things to consider as you are heading out:

Never take your pet bird outside without it being inside a carrier, travel cage or attached to an avian harness.

Your bird’s carrier should be firmly belted to the back seat of your car. (The front seat can be dangerous if your car has a passenger-side airbag.)

Reassure your bird by making sure it can see you during the ride and can hear you talking.

If the day is excessively cold, hot or windy, and the trip is optional, wait until the weather is more accommodating.

Covering the carrier with a sheet or towel can protect your bird from the elements. However, Dr. Jorge Mayer, DVM, of Massachusetts advised not to cover the bird completely. Birds that are in the dark can stumble off the perch when the carrier is jostled.

Make sure your destination is not only pleasant but also safe for your parrot. Avoid anywhere that is dark, smoky, overly crowded or that might otherwise overwhelm your bird. If you are visiting friends with dogs or cats you are unfamiliar with, can you find a secure room for your parrot? Do your friends know how important it is to keep windows closed and to keep your parrot away from lit stoves and other hazards? Even though your hosts are well-meaning, be vigilant; they are probably not aware of some of the commonplace dangers to parrots, such as salty foods, chocolate, air freshener sprays, and so on.

Enjoy your trip! Your bird will "read" your manner and relax, even if it’s not quite ready to socialize and prefers to just observe.

Get Ready For A Longer Trip A few things to consider if you and your parrot will be away for a night or longer:

Pack for both you and your parrot. A supply of your pet bird’s particular food brand is essential, as it might not be available at your destination. A stash of treats, toys, perches and dishes also makes life easier, depending on the duration of your trip. Also, a small carrier might be fine for a quick trip across town, but if your parrot will be spending a few days away from home it will probably need something larger. Luckily, there are collapsible travel cages available that you can assemble once you reach your destination.

If you travel to another state, confirm that there are no quarantines in effect and that your species of parrot is legal there. Quaker parakeets, for example, are illegal to own in California, New Jersey and several other states.

Flying With Parrots When Jen Silva recently relocated her brown-headed parrot and two cockatiels from Texas to Japan, she learned how complicated it can be to coordinate such a move. Her first piece of advice?

"If someone is only going overseas for a vacation, I recommend finding a good bird sitter," she said. Assess the difficulties and expenses to you as well as the stress on your birds, especially if the country you are visiting imposes a quarantine period.

Nevertheless, Silva had some good tips for domestic and international flights:

1) Talk to the airline, and make sure you understand their regulations for traveling with birds. Airlines differ not only in their policies, such as whether birds are allowed to travel in the cabin, what size birds are allowed and any extra fees. Silva learned that no pets are allowed in the cabin for international flights, and there is a limit to the number of hours the birds can stay in the cargo hold. Also, make sure your travel plans do not involve switching planes to another airline, with a whole new set of regulations and fees. Check the airline’s specifications for carriers. Silva was able to adapt Chihuahua-size crates by outfitting them with wooden perches, spill-proof water bottles and a supply of food.

Obtain a health certificate from an accredited vet no more than 10 days before your flight. For international travel, you will need the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service, (APHIS) form 7001, signed by both the vet and the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) person in your city; this form has a raised seal.

Also, if you are leaving the country, you will need a CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) permit, which might take three weeks to obtain. Keep a copy of all your paperwork, Silva advised. You will need it for your return trip.

Make sure your birds are banded if you are traveling abroad.

Have your bird’s wing-feathers trimmed, or have it in a secure, safe harness. Airport personnel might ask you to remove the bird from the carrier to pass through security checkpoints, and you’ll want to avoid a panicked bird flying in a crowded terminal.

Research the types of bird food, equipment and veterinary care available at your destination. Bring enough food and supplies with you to last through your trip. If you are not likely to find an avian vet once you arrive, follow Silva’s lead: have your vet perform the full battery of tests on your birds before you leave home, and keep them indoors once you arrive to prevent exposure to new diseases.

Help Your Parrot Like Her Travel Cage

If the travel cage resembles your parrot’s regular cage in some way, things may go more smoothly. A vastly different appearance can be off-putting, especially at first.

Make sure the carrier is big enough for your bird, which should at least be able to turn around and enjoy some movement.

Leave the cage around for a few days or weeks so your parrot can get used to it and see that it doesn’t pose a threat.

Put some tempting toys or treats in the cage where your parrot can see them and investigate; for example, most of our birds can’t resist a sprig of millet.

Avoid dangling toys to prevent your bird from getting knocked around when the carrier is in motion.

Avoid a water dish in the carrier; your parrot probably won’t appreciate a sudden bath. Water bottles can be a great alternative as long as you are sure your parrot knows how to use one. Jen Silva, who recently relocated with her parrots from Texas to Japan, found investing in non-spillable bottles well worth the price. Juicy pieces of fruit can also provide liquid on short trips. 

Original Article

This content sourced by Conure Parrots 2016 ©

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Fatty Liver (Hepatic Lipidosis) in Birds: Causes, Signs, and Treatment

What is fatty liver disease?

Fatty liver disease in birds, also known as hepatic lipidosis, is a disease in which large amounts of fat are deposited in the liver. It is most common in budgies, cockatiels, Amazon parrots, Quaker parrots, lovebirds, and cockatoos. It is a very serious condition, and death may occur if treatment is not started early in the course of the disease.

What causes fatty liver disease?

There are many possible causes of hepatic lipidosis in birds. These include:

High fat content in diet (all-seed diet)

Too frequent feedings, or eating too much at each feeding

Nutritional deficiencies such as biotin, methionine, and choline

Thyroid disease

Toxins such as lead, arsenic, carbon tetrachloride, chloroform, phosphorous, aflatoxins, and ethionine

Hereditary factors

Diabetes mellitus

What are the signs of hepatic lipidosis?

Birds with fatty liver disease generally have a sudden loss of appetite, are lethargic, and depressed. Many are overweight and the liver is enlarged due to the additional storage of fat. This results in a distended abdomen and difficulty breathing. They may have diarrhea and abnormal droppings (green in color). Birds may have poor feather quality. If the liver function is greatly decreased, birds may develop central nervous system signs such as seizures, loss of balance, and muscle tremors. Budgies may have overgrown, soft beaks. Some birds with fatty liver disease may develop few signs before they die suddenly.

How is fatty liver disease diagnosed?

Results of a physical examination, including the palpation of an enlarged liver often raise suspicion of hepatic lipidosis. The diagnosis can be supported through liver tests, radiography (x-rays), and confirmed through liver biopsy.

What is the treatment for hepatic lipidosis?

Birds with fatty liver disease must be placed on a low-fat diet which includes high quality pellets and fresh fruits and vegetables. It is sometimes difficult to get them to eat, so tube feeding may be necessary during the beginning of the treatment. They usually need additional supportive care such as supplemental heat and fluids. Additional medications, such as lactulose, may be given to treat or prevent central nervous system signs.

Original Article

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