edgeoftides

[edgeoftides]

Northumberland Coast November Road Trip

England in November is a season of shorter days and falling temperatures. We expected the weather for our Northumberland coastal road trip to be mixed, and that’s exactly what we got. At times, the conditions were challenging due to considerable periods of drenching rain and temperatures that barely reached double figures.

A road trip along Northumberland's beautiful coast, at any time of year, from Amble in the south to Berwick-upon-Tweed on the northern borders of Scotland, displays some of Britain's finest beaches and spectacular views. An Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), this stretch of England’s most northern county is home to expansive stretches of stunning shoreline, wind-swept sand dunes, historic ruins, and charming fishing communities.

The November sun rises just before 8 am and sets about 4 pm, so I didn't have to worry about setting my alarm too early. Since there are less visitors in the area at this time of year, the coastal scenery can be explored without the crowds, having miles of beautiful Northumberland beaches virtually all to ourselves. We found some businesses and attractions understandingly closed or operating less frequently for the winter season. Finding tables at restaurants was easy whereas in the summer months booking ahead would be a necessity.

Our journey spanned five days, which gave us plenty of opportunities to leisurely explore the different places we visited, sometimes even retuning the next day, and time to shelter from the harshest weather conditions. The trip could easily be completed in half the time, especially within the longer days of summer.

Northumberland map

Highlights of Our Northumberland Coast Road Trip

Amble

We begin our tour in Amble, known as "The Friendliest Port". A quaint harbour town at the mouth of the River Coquet that can be considered as the southern gateway to the Northumberland Coast. Harbourside seafood restaurants, brightly coloured beach huts, independent retail pods, and a sizable pier can be found in this increasingly popular town.

Amble still functions as a working port and has a small fishing fleet. A 250 berth Marina, situated on the banks of the River Coquet, offers a range of boat yard services. Boat trips operate in the spring-time to view wildlife, notably puffins and roseate terns, on Coquet Island. Sitting a mile off the coast and crammed with birdlife for half the year, the island is a Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) managed nature reserve. Boat landings are not permitted and only RSPB wardens are allowed onto the island. 

Amble gained the nickname 'the friendliest port' when on 3rd July 1935, the local Council sent the RMS Mauretania a telegram on it's last voyage to the the wreckers yard in Rosyth. 'Still the finest ship on the seas'. To which Mauretania replied with, "Thank you to the last and kindliest port."

Craster

Moving approximately 15 miles north, we reach Craster, a remote coastal haven set amongst rugged rocks, dramatic coastline and beautiful countryside.

Craster has a small harbour shielded from the wind-whipped North Sea by the guarding embrace of two solid piers. These concrete harbour walls were being put to the test as we arrived. As enormous wave swells pummelled the sea defences with amazing force, we were reminded that no matter how picturesque this coastline may be, the sea can nevertheless be brutal and unforgiving,

As soon as we stepped foot in the village, we were aware of the enticing smell from the L. Robson & Sons fish smokeries. Craster has a reputation for some of the most delicious oak-smoked kippers in the country. Fish is still being cured in the ancient smokehouses, which date back more than 130 years, by this fourth-generation family business.

Craster more than makes up for its lack of beaches with a breathtaking, volcanically formed, rocky shoreline. A relatively easy, one mile walk along the headland provides breathtaking sea views as you approach the imposing ruin of Dunstanburgh Castle. One of the most atmospheric and inspiring castles in England, Dunstanburgh Castle was built in the 14th century.

With over 700 sites—more than any other county in England, you will see plenty of castles on your journey up the Northumberland coastal route. This is due to the rather violent past with neighbouring Scotland to the north.

Seahouses

Further up the coast, the bustling market town of Seahouses offers everything you may want for a conventional coastal getaway. A variety of shops, restaurants, pubs, ice cream shops, and fish & chip eateries can be found in addition to fantastic sea views. 

I have a fondness for Seahouses that stretches back over a decade or more. Known to many as ‘The entryway to the Farne Islands’ which are located two to three miles offshore. I’ve made the crossing over to the islands many times to photograph nesting sea birds. As well as being the most famous Sea Bird Sanctuary in the British Isles, the islands are also home to a large colony of Grey Seals. Birds that frequent these islands for nesting include Puffins and several breeds of Terns. Boats depart daily from the busy, colourful harbour. 

There are beautiful beaches to the north and south of Seahouses, with the northernmost one being the most popular. Bamburgh Castle provides a magnificent backdrop to this expansive sandy beach which is bordered by grassy sand dunes.

Avian Flu

The worst bird flu outbreak to ever affect the UK has occurred during 2022, and experts have cautioned that the infection rate could increase even further throughout the winter of 2022-2023. The outbreak has had a huge negative impact on agriculture and the environment, killing 97 million birds worldwide (3.8 million in the UK). In response, the Farne Islands have been closed to visitors over the breeding season, as officials attempted to stem the spread of the infections. There is still a worrying battle ahead to rid our shores of this rampant killer disease.

Bamburgh

Bamburgh is the next-door neighbour to the community of Seahouses. A picture-postcard village, with English tea rooms, stone cottages, gift shops, eateries and B&Bs. The magnificent, 1,400-year-old Bamburgh Castle is seen before you even get to Bamburgh, majestically rising from the dunes system that fringes the beach, it literally is the stuff of legends.

The castle commands sweeping views of a 2.5-kilometer long, immaculate sandy beach with the Farne Islands, Holy Island, and Lindisfarne seen in the distance. Due to its lofty position, Bamburgh Castle is a beautiful subject for photos when shot from the beach.

Holy Island

Any visit to the Holy Island of Lindisfarne begins and ends with the vagaries of the tide. The island is cut off from the mainland twice a day during high tide when the causeway that connects the mainland to the island is submerged.

Crossing Holy Island’s causeway is a great experience, beautiful and sometimes eerie. The Road is approx 3 miles long and takes about 10 minutes to drive. Close to the start of the causeway is the famous refuge shelter for anyone unlucky enough that gets caught out by the tide. If you are unfamiliar with the causeway and the workings of the tides, it is best to educate yourself first, so long as you plan your visit for the right times, there is really nothing difficult to the crossing. I double-checked the crossing times before planning our trip.

Holy Island is steeped in history with spectacular coastal scenery. Whether you're interested in history, religion, walking, birdwatching, nature, or beaches, or like me in photography - Holy Island boasts a variety of attractions and activities. I think that it’s safe to say that most visitors are attracted by the extensive ruins of a 12th-century priory church and the associated monastic buildings. The equally famous Lindisfarne Castle is the other main visitor attraction.

Local boats moor iIn Holy Island Harbour, known as The Ouse. The legendary upside-down boats on a muddy area next to the beach are old herring boats that have been converted into fishermen's sheds.

Lindisfarne Castle dates back to the middle of the sixteenth century and was first used as a garrison. The castle, which is positioned atop the volcanic rock formation known as Beblowe Craig and is one of the Island's most recognisable and appealing sights, can be seen for miles in all directions. The castle we see today was constructed by renowned architect Edwin Lutyens beginning in 1903 and is an amazing blend of a Tudor artillery fort and an Edwardian country home.

Reconnecting with some of our favourite places along the Northumberland Coast has been a wonderful experience. Who wouldn't be captivated by this special place? It's every bit the wild coast you'd want for photography inspiration.

All images © Adrian McGarry

www.adrianmcgarry.com

[edgeoftides]

The North Wales Coast and Why I Love It

For those who enjoy spectacular scenery, North Wales has it all.

Conwy Castle

With 250 miles of breathtaking coastline, featuring rugged seascapes, tidal islands, secluded coves, historic lighthouses, medieval castles, Victorian fishing piers and delightful coastal towns; the North Wales coastline is a photographer's paradise.

Bordered in the north and west by the Irish Sea, the beaches in North Wales, several of which have been designated Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, are among the best in the entire United Kingdom. Tales of legends, myths, shipwrecks and battles are all part of the region’s culture and thousands of years of Welsh history. Away from the coast lies the vast, untamed Snowdonia National Park, home to trails, lakes, waterfalls, and ascent routes to Mount Snowdon; the highest peak in England and Wales.

Many of North Wales' beaches are easily accessible

The Wales Coast Path, the first in the world to follow a country’s coastline in its entirety, offers the best way to witness jaw-dropping scenery and connect with the resorts, towns and villages along the way. The 870 miles coastal route offers unbroken, unspoilt, coastal walking with several sections suitable for cyclists and designated as part of the National Cycle Network. The official start and finish points are on the northern border with England near Chester and Chepstow in the south. The North Wales section encompasses the Dee Estuary and travels west to Bangor, then circumventing the Isle of Anglesey (via the Anglesey Coast Path) and onto the Llŷn & Snowdonia Coast.

I live close to the sea at approximately the mid-way point of the northern coastline in the county of Conwy. I can get to a lot of spots for my coastal photography quickly and easily. Further afield, a short drive takes me onto the beautiful Isle of Anglesey and the Llŷn Peninsula is only an hour away.

Golden hour photography on the North Wales coast

As one of the most popular seaside vacation destinations in the UK, the region is host to a number of bustling, coastal resorts. Long, sandy beaches offer plenty of space for recreational, leisure and sports activities. I prefer secluded spots and I photograph mainly in the golden hours around sunrise and sunset. Pensarn and Llanddulas are my local beaches. Neither location will be on most photographer's hit-lists of favourite photo hot-spots, yet these less famous beaches are a constant inspiration for my photography, offering a slower pace of life, time to reflect and create in silence.

Sunset at Llanddulas Beach.

I never run out of themes because the captivation of either calm or wild seas, vast stretches of exposed sand, and an infinite diversity of rocks, cliffs, water, and beach. North Wales offers all of this and more, I feel fortunate and privileged to call this my home.

Morning gallop at Pensarn Beach.

The North Wales coast is easily accessible thanks to the A55 expressway, a major road that extends from the eastern border all the way to Holyhead Port on the Isle of Anglesey. A substantial rail route runs from Holyhead through to Cheshire in England.

All images © Adrian McGarry

[edgeoftides]

Strandline Drift

My goal is to capture fascinating arrangements of natural materials with minimal interference on my part.

The coast is a stimulating environment for creativity. There are always fantastic opportunities to capture landscape photos, for many visitors, this may be their first, and only, thought when considering a shot. There's nothing wrong with that; why wouldn’t you photograph the stunning vistas that our shorelines provide? Nature conjures the most breathtaking scenes that have the power to stop you in your tracks and immerse you in their beauty. Nevertheless, it can be challenging after concentrating on the big picture to explore the many possibilities for discovering fascinating detail, texture, shape, and form. It’s within the beaches’ microcosms that new perspective and even abstract work can be formed. The creations of nature never cease to amaze. Twice daily, the boundary between the land and the sea is reshaped. Seaweed, shells, and drift material are deposited on our shores by the incoming tides. Countless opportunities exist to create innovative shots. The stretches where this maritime debris collects is just above the highest tide mark and is known as the strandline. It is here where I spend a lot of my time, exploring and photographing the natural still-life arrangements left by the sea.

Strandlines can be found on all but the steepest of beaches, and each one may sustain vegetation and marine life. Invertebrates, fish, sea urchins, and crustaceans find shelter in these accumulations. They also serve as a food source for many wildlife species that frequent the coast, including waders and seabirds.

Exploring natural ecosystems and observing the immense power of the forces that shape them can become an obsession. The combination of discovering the natural world, expressing one's creativity, and being in and around nature is what makes coastal photography so ideal. I find physical and mental rejuvenation at the beach. Almost every day, new photographic opportunities present themselves, and each beach trip is rarely the same. I'm continuously attempting to depict the enigmatic, inexplicable, and yet totally recognisable characteristics of coastal environments; a blend of idea and fact. Through my Coastal Impressions work, I create personal interpretations of light and form with impressionistic, free-flowing camera movements and in-camera multi-exposures. In my strandline photography, I concentrate on the boundaries where land and sea meet. Every day, tides and weather can change beaches by adding new materials and removing others, this is most notable after stormy weather. These remnants are both significant life sources and natural works of art. 

My goal is to capture fascinating arrangements of natural materials with minimal interference on my part. I make an effort to leave mostly everything in place so that my photos are faithful representations of what I find. Wildlife depends on plants, seaweed, and rocks for living, and one never knows what harm can result from disturbing or removing them. The exception being man-made litter.

Sadly, discarded materials, typically plastics, will always be present on beaches, whether by purpose or by mistake. Marine life can consume and become entangled in the rubbish that accumulates along the shoreline. I live at the coast in North Wales and many of the beaches are popular summer holiday destinations for thousands of holidaymakers. Although beaches are lovely places for recreation, the resulting pollution has the potential to harm or even destroy them. We need to maintain coastal habitats at all costs. Respecting and preserving this incredible resource ought to be our shared responsibility. Visitors and locals alike can each play a part in ensuring that our beaches stay healthy and safe. I'm hoping that by using my photography to show my love of the shore, I might encourage others to appreciate and respect nature more.

All images © Adrian McGarry