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Fashion Plate Friday

Fashion plate from the November 1823 edition of Ackermann's Repository.

Description in Ackermann's:

"FULL DRESS. Lace dress over a blue satin slip: the corsage full, supported in the centre by a row of white satin leaves formed into a stomacher in front, and shaped behind by blue satin lacings: very full sleeve, separated into bouffants by blue satin Vandykes extending half way up the sleeve, and is finished by a broad Vandyke lace: blue satin band, with radiated leaves behind. The skirt is elegantly ornamented with a row of white satin uniform flowers and an antique wreath of leaves in Moravian work, with a very rich embroidered border of flowers beneath, united by semi-circular branches and roses to a pyramidal border that surrounds the bottom of the skirt. Tucker, of a double row of fine tulle: a small bouquet on the right side of the bust. The hair a la Madonne in front, with plaited bands round the head, and a bow at the back; demi-wreath of Persian roses behind. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of dead gold. White kid gloves trimmed a la Francaise. Transparent painted horn fan. White satin shoes."

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Autumnal Vibes

Just a couple of dresses that I think look super autumnal.

1836-38 Wool dress from the V&A collection.

Description from the V&A website:

"The fitted bodice has a low, round neck and a slightly high waistline. The skirt is box-pleated more tightly at the centre back. The sleeves are set low, tightly pleated below the shoulder. They have been altered by having the fullness reduced and a frill attached at the elbow. The sleeve puffs are stiffened with calico and supported with tapes. The main seams are faced, the bodice is lined with cotton and the skirt faced with glazed cotton."

Dress | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections (vam.ac.uk)

Red cotton dress 1828-35 from the Augusta Auctions site.

Description from Augusta Auctions:

"Turkey red cotton with leaf and flower sprays and dotted stems in cream, wide scoop neckline, bodice gathered at chest in vertical pattern, full sleeves tapering to .5" cuff, upper sleeve lined with cane-inset muslin, inset waistband, full gatheredskirt, piped seams, muslin bodice lining, brown calico print cuff facings, indigo chambray hem facing, back closing, brass hooks & embroidered eyes, pelerine of matching fabric with scalloped bottom (scattered holes and stains, fading overall) good."

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Taffeta Tuesday

Taffeta evening dress ca.1855 from the Museum of Fine Art Boston collection.

Description from MFA Boston:

"Yellow taffeta dress with wide, flaring neckline, tightly fitted bodice, short sleeves; skirt full all around with three flounces of yellow and white brocade border taffeta; triangular panels front and back of bodice and edges of sleeves trimmed with part of brocade taffeta."

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Wedding Veil Wednesday

This 1850s embroidered wedding veil is from Augusta Auctions.

Description from Augusta Auctions:

"1 shaped veil in cream Tambour, running stitch & drawn net work in Baroque revival & floral motifs, 64.5" x 39", (tiny holes in top of head, probably reshaped at edges) very good."

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Silken Saturday

Today's silken Saturday object is this 1790s muff from the V&A collection.

Description from the V&A website:

"Muff of ivory silk satin, lined with blue silk sarsenet and stuffed. It is embroidered with coloured silks and couched with silver filé and spangles, in a central motif of a floral bouquet tied with a ribbon, surrounded by floral borders. There is a casing set in from each edge, creating a ruffle at each end."

Muff | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections (vam.ac.uk)

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Striped Sunday

This 1825-30 dress is from the Augusta Auctions site.

Description from Augusta Auctions:

"Mauve silk w/ small brocade pattern, red & green printed stripes, empire W, short puffed Sleeves, B 34", W 30", L 52", (very small tear & stain, altered?)"

The dress has such a cosy colour palette with its deep shades of red and green.

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Taffeta Tuesday

This grey taffeta Quaker dress ca.1825 is part of the MFA Boston collection.

Description from the MFA Boston website:

"Fitted bodice, open down front, probably closed with a brooch, lined with glazed linen which overlapped in front, long sleeves, full and puffed slightly at shoulders tapering to narrow wrist, skirt with fullness in soft knife pleats, rest of fullness at center back, front panel of skirt drop front; many small brownish stains."

Quaker's dress of gray taffeta – Works – Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (mfa.org)

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Menswear Monday

This gorgeously gaudy 1845-50 waistcoat is from the V&A collection.

Description from the V&A website:

"Man's waistcoat of Jacquard-woven silk satin with a roll collar. With a pattern of peacock feathers and pendulous flower forms surrounding the feathers in cream, blue and fawn on a dark red satin ground. With simple shaped lapels edged with braid. Six covered hand-made buttons constructed over a wooden core that fasten at the lower front and with a pocket at either side edged with a fine braid. Backed with deep red silk and lined with cream glazed cotton."

Find out more:

Waistcoat | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections (vam.ac.uk)

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Floral Friday

Today's Floral Friday dress is this American 1825-30 dress from the MFA Boston collection.

Description from the MFA Boston website:

"Dark brown satin bodice with all over sprays of roses, candy tuft and other small flowers brocaded with polychrome silks, short waisted, with wide flaring neck, hooked down centre back, long straight undersleeves with short full puffed oversleeves, boned and lined with white linen; narrow ruching of stiffened sheer cotton at edge of sleeves. Tag saying, Mrs. Inches."

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Wedding Bonnet Wednesday

This ca.1845 English wedding bonnet is from the V&A collection.

Description from the V&A website: "Cream silk tulle bonnet trimmed with bands of white crepe and sprays of imitation orange blossom, coal scuttle shape"

Orange blossom was especially popular among Victorian brides after featuring prominently in Queen Victoria's wedding attire.

Wedding Bonnet | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections (vam.ac.uk)

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Striped Stocking Sunday

For today's stripey Sunday, we have this pair of 1860s silk stockings from the V&A collection. They have a pattern of white, blue, pink and green stripes.

Pair of Stockings | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections (vam.ac.uk)

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Blue Silk Saturday

This man's waistcoat ca.1851-60 is from the Museum of London collection. I love how the colours of this piece are still so vivid.

Object description from the Museum of London website:

"A man's waistcoat, fronts of blue silk embroidered with coloured silk thread with lilies of the valley. The front of the waistcoat is of royal blue silk with a shawl collar and a small slit pocket on either side. The embroidered lily motif lies in a diagonal band of three on each side of the waistcoat and each side of the collar has two motifs. Each embroidered motif consists of three sprigs, each sprig has a mid brown stem, green shaded leaves and ivory flower heads with a green base. The front has a straight bottom edge and is fastened by means of four blue silk covered buttons. The back of the waistcoat is made of blue silk taffeta. Attached to the lower part of the silk back are two sets of brown silk ties which are fastened to adjust the width of the waistcoat. The waistcoat is lined in a buff coloured silk material."

Museum of London | Free museum in London

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Wedding Dress Wednesday 👰

This ca.1834 wedding dress from the V&A Collection has that quintessential 1830s silhouette. The shoulders are sloped, the skirt is voluminous and the sleeves are massive.

Description from the V&A website:

"Wedding dress consisting of a pelisse robe with large sleeves and bell shaped skirt. It is made of white muslin with self coloured cotton embroidery in a formal floral pattern. There is a bow of satin at ankle height, in the front of the skirt. The dress is lined with silk and fastens at the neck and waist with black metal hooks and eyes. There is an additional silk tying ribbon inside the waist."

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O166833/wedding-dress-unknown/?carousel-image=2010EG1364

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The Leadville Levi’s

1890s

United States

The Leadville Levi’s® are a pair of 1890s Spring Bottoms — a riveted denim cousin to the 501® jean. They are named for their “spring” or flare at the bottom of the hem and are considered the first Levi’s® flared jean. Spring Bottoms would have suited a store owner, clerk, office worker or other middle manager who preferred more tailored clothes.

Spring Bottoms were first introduced in 1889 and originally came in two colors, blue or grey denim. The Leadville Levi’s® are an unusual grey denim. With the new addition, the Archives now has examples of both blue and grey pairs.

Like 501® jeans, the Spring Bottoms have riveted pockets, but the pockets are rounded and tailored with unusual stitching detail. Such tailoring, which would have required a skilled sewing machine operator, meant that the jeans took longer to make and were more expensive than traditional 501® waist overalls.

The Levi Strauss & Co. Archives

Learn More About the Leadville Levi’s at The Levi Strauss & Co. Archives

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Monday Mitts

Image credit - MFA Boston Collection

A pair of early 19th century mid-length mitts from the MFA Boston.

Description from the MFA Boston website:

"Black silk machine made net ground, stocking stitch sprays of flowers are worked on this tambour stitch with green, yellow, brown, pink, white and blue silk."

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Stripey Sunday

Image credit - Augusta Auctions

This 1825-30 dress was part of Tasha Tudor's extensive costume collection before being auctioned in 2007.

Here's the description given on the the Augusta Auctions website:

"Roller printed in stripes of orange, brown and white over-printed with red and blue florals, rounded neckline, centre front closure, bodice with tucked bias diagonal bands across the chest, full puffed sleeve tapering to 1" piped cuff, self fabric button on each cuff, apron front gathered to drawstring tie, finished with attached 2" fabric belt, full gathered skirt, muslin lined bodice, sleeves and hem facing, probably English"

I feel cosy just looking at this dress. It has peak grandma's curtain energy and peak autumn vibes.

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Journal des Dames et des Modes, editie Frankfurt 2 septembre 1821, Costumes allemand et françois (36).

The accompanying text in the magazine (p.278) states: Viennese fashion: Fig. 1: Blue crepe hat, embroidered with straw, decorated with a garland of straw flowers. Gown of flamed 'mousseline', garnished with organdy stars. Scarf in embroidered muslin. Yellow long gloves. Pink shoes. fig. 2: Hat of 'paille d'Italie' decorated with a wide band of gaze. Cotton percale dress, trimmed with muslin strips and tulle inserts. Fichu from side. White gloves. Blue shoes. The print is part of the fashion magazine Journal des Dames et des Modes, published in Frankfurt as a copy of the French edition by Pierre de la Mésangère, Paris, 1797-1839.