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Brandon Maxwell Spring/Summer 2020

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Bella Hadid for Mugler by Nam Nguyen

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Hilde Reindl, #Color Wheel and Tone Study for Paul Klee’s Course, 1927.

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bias cut always looks good on J

Jennifer Aniston was looking stunning in vintage Dior by John Galliano gown while attending the 26th annual Screen Actors Guild Awards at The Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, California.

[other1kchad]

3 WAYS

Being in fashion and just being normal observant human with taste. I’ve noticed that I’ve become bothered by so many things that others would’t take notice. What I do notice most of all however is how people dress, how they carry themselves. They walk, they slouch and their daily uniform is underwhelming to say the least. Can we not try harder people? Daily doldrums and things get us down, but on the whole, just look at it with me on the general scale of things and ask yourselves can we do better? It doesn’t take a lot. And on those days, where we are out of our wits, we’ve been left behind or otherwise there are three easy ways to at least let the world know, the bothered ones that we acquire some taste, some good to our wardrobe. The rest of your problems, well I can't help with that.

ONE. A coat. A long sweat if you will. It makes whatever else is going on underneath seem, streamline. Like it’s the duvet over the bed that you pull over swiftly when you have company coming over. My go-to is an American Apparel knit dark grey sweater (dark grey goes with everything) and I throw it on and suddenly I’m somewhat chic at least by the Olsen-twins status. Or my vintage Valentino that is so long I find the tasteless stepping on it, but it masks the lack of effort underneath and the downtrodden lack of effort I had to offer that day. I I believe, before we continue, that the “mono” look can be more than solids, it can be prints, it can be textures or even variations of lengths and colors. The more you make the look your ‘own’, the more together you can come off. Okay on to #2.

TWO. A chick bag. I have loads. A coach clutch, two Gucci waist bags, a Kara mini chain bag, a utility belt I wear crossbody, well you get the gist. And guess what? I can pair them with my sweater. It’s like a seatbelt holding that oversize garment together. It also says, my bag is small, my sweater is big, who am I?

THREE. When all else fails, go for the monochromatic look. It’s clean, it’ll match the sweater and the bag doesn’t even matter at this point. An all black look with  matching sweats, jeans, fuck even your exercise leggings. Or a beige look with sweatpants and add some penny loafers. The point is paired with one and two, the world doesn’t know where you’re going or where you came from. The look itself is tired, I know. The girl or the guy with the coat and the mono and the chic bag, and they seem so important right? They have places to be and friends to chat with. But this is for the lazy ones, with nowhere to go but a maybe a quick errand or a shoot to style. If you really want to know how to dress, that’s a different story. 

I’ve attached some photos [not my own, I do not have copyrights] to spare some examples of this easy 3-way look. 

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These two 

Givenchy SS 09 (left) Guy Laroche f/w 2014 (right)

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Moohong SS20 shot at Paris Fashionweek

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Vaguely..Kimhekim SS20 “Me” shot at Paris Fashionweek 

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Christian Stone SS20 shot at Paris Fashionweek

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By Claudia Knoepfel for Porter Edit Magazine

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SOCIAL JUSTICE ON THE RUNWAY?

DOES SOCIAL JUSTICE HAVE A PLACE ON THE RUNWAY?

Black lives matter. LGBTQ equality. The Feminist movement. What do these three terms have in common? They are all social justice issues. So, what is “social justice?” It’s a term we love to throw around these days to define topics that plague our modern-day society. It’s a term loosely used to sound intelligent when discussing controversial subjects. By definition it means, “justice in terms of the distribution of wealth, opportunities, and privileges within a society.” Many movements fall under this blanket term and during my time at a private university whose mission was social justice, I have come to learn about the sensitive and delicate reactions that arise when the term “social justice” is thrown around too carelessly.

I think it’s somewhat distasteful when phrases or slogans that reference social justice are haphazardly thrown on t-shirts or sweatshirts. We’re all familiar with the “FEMINIST” tees sold at Forever 21 or Etsy finds that read, “DO SOMETHING WITH YOUR LIFE THAT WOULD MAKE A 1950s STRAIGHT, WHITE MAN ANGRY #GIRLPOWER.”Powerful stuff, or so one might think. These slogans definitely grab your attention and maybe they make you laugh or conjure a sense of solidarity with your fellow woman, but is this social justice? Let’s take a look at how these fast fashion brands gained their inspiration.

It’s not a new fad to throw a word or catchy slogan on a t-shirt and call it fashion, but as of the last couple years the slogans have been focusing on issues that plague our society. Topics like those of Black Lives Matter, LGBTQ, politics, Me Too and other feminist concerns have been addressed on our clothing and on the runway, but does this make the causes more meaningful or have we now become jaded due to these trends marching down the store aisles and down the runway? Taking a look at Dior and highlighting their infamous, “We should all be Feminists,” t-shirt; a simple white shirt with black lettering proves the point by saying, ‘it’s simple, it’s black and white with no distractions: be a feminist.” The message itself is from author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s essay, “We should all be feminists,” and itis direct and a call to action that you can’t escape. However, its true now these messages similar to the Dior tee are inescapable because you can find them in any fast fashion store in your local mall and see them marching around your school or even your job. The issue does not lie with the consumer who is choosing to let their community know their stance on social issues, but it lies within designers choosing an issue and possible exploiting it to the point of shallowness to target an audience to  garner sales.

Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri is no stranger to bringing the slogan tee to the runway, beginning with the popular “feminist” shirt and now, in 2019 sending models down the runway in shirts that read, “Sisterhood is powerful,” borrowing the slogan from Robin Morgan’s book of the same name. These shirts tell women and men alike that we should be feminists, and I don’t disagree, but how can we join this movement? Buy the shirt and you’re in! Only problem is these shirts range from $500-$800 which seems out of touch and makes spreading the movement more difficult for consumers who can’t afford this price point. As a result, we have knock-offs and counterfeit tees directly quoting Chiuri’s shirts or referencing them and thanks to fast fashion everyone is a feminist. It’s not only Chiuri but other designers as well such as Jonathan Simkhai, Prabal Gurung and Christian Siriano. These designers follow the same trend by dressing their models in high-low fashions mixing slogan tees with couture accessories and shoes, but I want to take a look at the larger picture. These t-shirts are referencingtitlesof feminist works that cover complex issues and are neglecting many issues these authors are addressing. Meaning these slogans are somewhat one-sided and they aren’t representative of sex workers, trans women, or women from far more oppressed cultures such as those in the Middle-East.

I understand Chuiri is a feminist designer and that she is an innovator especially where the Dior brand is concerned. But what I also understand is that social justice is multidimensional and slogan tees aren’t enough and won’t cut it in the foreseeable future. I call upon designers as well as consumers to be concerned and aware of the role fashion plays in social justice.

[other1kchad]

My inspiration comes from mostly the Antwerp 6, Ann, Dries, etc. Even Rei. The idea that a garment can be shown in many stages. The stages it takes to create the classic button up or the layers you can add to an outfit. For example, layering jackets in different drapings can create a new silhouette altogether. 

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DESIGNER OF MANY NAMES

RICHARD ROSS: A MANY OF MANY NAMES AND TALENTS TO MATCH

Richard Calabasas. WICHUUD. Drähcir. These are the few names that surround art student, photographer and designer Richard Ross. A proud Bay Area native from Concord, California that I was honored to exchange some insightful emails with concerning his love for fashion, music and film. Currently living in Southern California, attending California State University of Long Beach and studying fashion which he says is the “right move,” for him with the exception of adjusting to living alone and away from his home in the Bay Area.

           Looking at Richard’s Instagram (@richardcalabasas) you will find a curated page of only 13 posts at the moment. Despite the lack of photos, compared to other creative’s hundreds of photos, its still apparent where Ross’ passion lies. His most recent post is a preview of a single he’s released on all streaming platforms titled, “Ultra.” Keep scrolling and you’ll see a photo of him with his parents of whom he says, “I’m so glad I have the parents to support it [learning about fashion]. Not many people are fortunate enough to have their family back them up with what they truly want to do.” Continue down his Instagram, and its apparent he has a strong interest in dance and photography.

           Drähcir Collective, Ross’ clothing brand, whose name is cleverly “Richard” spelled backwards is a consistent project that the designer speaks passionately about. A “simple process,” Richard describes as him sketching ideas, scanning them to his computer and then digitizing them. Ross prefers to work with a local printshop to support small businesses and to have the advantage of working closely with them on the details. “It is honestly the best feeling to see your pieces come to life,” he says of this “simple process.”

            When asked about his inspirations regarding fashion, Ross says that fashion was always something that was present in his family. Whether he was dressed and matching to the nines with his two older brothers or beginning his sneaker collection in elementary school its apparent Ross always had his own unique sense of style. “I would always get asked, ‘why do you dress like a 20-year old??’ I was genuinely confused because I just dressed how I wanted,” this speaks volumes to his minimalist approach to his designs on his windbreakers, jackets and sweatshirts.

           Despite family being an influence on Ross’ creative side, he also cites Jackie Chan being his first ever creative inspiration. He also cites Pulp Fiction as a film that inspires him immensely. It would be ignorant to discount his love for music and film, Ross’ describes clothing, music and photography as his “holy trinity.” He says his love for these three expressions by saying, “to put it into perspective, imagine building a brand in the future where I could design the clothes, shoot the pictures, and produce the music for the promos/shows.” It’s not a surprise that when I asked my final question about where Ross sees himself in 10 years to which he responds honestly and eloquently by saying, “In ten years I see myself as a respected designer within the fashion industry...Right now I’m a student absorbing as much knowledge and experience as I can. I’m still young…I’m currently motivated to be the best person I can be.” Seeing and learning about how much Richard Ross has accomplished since that young boy in elementary school sneaker shopping for school to accomplished designer, student and overall creative it’s not hard to imagine he will be a well respected creative within the industry.

PSA: I know Richard fairly well. He is a great friend of my family. What’s most admirable about Richard is that he is not confined to one form of art. His passion for learning more about fashion, music, photography and most importantly his friends is genuine. These attributes that I’ve highlighted, if he sticks with them, will matter most in this industry and no doubt contribute to his successful future. Follow his journey on his IG @richardcalabasas. Sparce posts but a good insight into his talent.

[other1kchad]

TRENDS

I may have made it apparent in my previous post that trends, in terms of style, should be avoided. Meaning that they can be taken too far. People allow trends to lead their fashion choices and then BOOM onto the next trend. There are “trends” that aren’t trends really anymore. They’re here to stay and they’ve become staples, pieces that are crucial to ones everyday wardrobe. Here are a couple of trends, only a couple that come straight to mind, that I approve of and are even hanging in my rack right now.

ONE. The monochromatic look. We have seen Hailey Beiber and Rosie Huntington-Whitely, and the Hadids alike frolicking around in a mono look. Rosie opts more for the Max Mara trenches and matching pant with her signature Bottega Venetas. I love it. Same with Hailey B. With H I tend to see a mono sweatsuit with an overcoat in a matching color or even a dark contrasted black jacket. This look can be achieved with not necessarily a more formal-meeting ready get-up but even with a sweat suit (H) a matching hoodie and a coat to tie it all together. And let’s not forget a chic handbag to complement the look.

TWO. A cyclical trend, the “dad” shoe. Raf, Yeezy, Pyer Moss, Balenciaga, basically every designer is capitalizing on this “trend.” Plain and simple, I endorse. Why? It adds modernity and it is striking if done correctly. I’ve seen women in my fashion classes try to rock this trend and it’s paired poorly with a jean, knee length skirt and peasant top and its a no go. For me, how do I pair my Yeezy’s? An oversized denim jean, sweats (of course) or an above the knee sweat-short that’s paid with a Benneton button down. Again, Hi-Lo for me is the way I go. And the gag is, the shoes are so comfortable. I wear mine almost everyday.

THREE. This one is more complicated for me, because it’s being overdone. Okay we get it we love our Jacquemus mini Chiquitos, but everything in moderation. They are adorable and not functional but who cares because fashion isn’t supposed to be. I opt for a slightly different, slightly more functional mini-wallet (and its a wallet because it only fits my two credit cards, ID and maybe my Dior lipstick.) It’s the KARA Chain bag in the mini option. The chain is heavy, like an actual chain, many mistake it for a weapon (i.e. LDR security and the county office) but I’m inseparable from it. It’s a conversation starter no matter where I go. “Is it a bag?” “Is it a chain accessory?” Nope, its my Kara. My point being we’ve seen Lizzo rocking the mini Chiquito and in my opinion, it’s been done. The craze is over. I love Jacquemus! He is a fresh designer who puts thought and personality and not to mention sentimentality into his work (i.e. 2020 Menswear collection.) But like I said trends are cyclical and this one is “sort of” overplayed. Let’s see some variety. This final acceptable “trend” is an exception because it can be done in a multitude of ways. Link to the Kara bag below. 

BONUS. Oversize clothing. Contradictory to #3 oversize blazers, leather jackets as well as denim is unique because you can wear them casually or even dress them up depending on the crowd and location. I love an oversize leather blazer or biker jacket with slacks or even denim (baggy or fitted. They can go with virtually any bottom: shorts, biker shorts, skirt, and I’ve even worn my oversize leather with nothing but tights for a birthday celebration (25 thank you). Hi-Lo is a guiding theme for me so I own a lot of denim and leather and tops that are anywhere in between. My dichotomy tends to shift between high end pieces and “low” end finds. I’m attracted to minimalism and chaos and layers. 

Here’s the link to my Kara bag that I’m inseparable with: https://www.ssense.com/en-us/women/product/kara/black-bike-wallet-bag/4878681

[other1kchad]

Style [defined by me]

Recently I had a good friend of mine ask me at a party (of all places) what defines style for me? This is a complicated question because in my opinion style is vague, it’s like defining love. Everyone has a different answer. So what does style mean to me? Do I have it? I am very humble when it comes to things like this because I’m in the Fashion Art Direction and Fashion Journalism Master’s program so I must have that “something” that constitutes style.

For one, what I’ve learned from listening to stylists and my instructors it’s that you must combine the individual’s style with what you interpret their style to be. I hope you’re still with me here. So, back to the big Q, what is style to me? For one, it’s someone who doesn’t rely on trends. Now, trends are cyclical, where as up until recently they followed a bell curve trend. Meaning, styles come and they go, we can see this as early as the late 1800′s up until the 50s or even the 60′s. But now, we see they repeat and they come and go.

Karl Lagerfeld said that style is something you’re born with, you can’t acquire it, and to an extent I believe this is true. Looking on Google (sadly) this is what comes up.

“ Style is expressing yourself through what you wear. Style is defined as a particular of doing or saying something, or refers to a unique form of clothing or way of arranging your appearance. An example of style is the method by which you learn.”

For me, it’s your finesse. It’s your lifestyle and your style should exude no matter what you wear, how you look. It’s an energy, an attitude. It can be the way you carry yourself, you light your cigarette or sit at the bus stop.Even the way you speak, you articulate in a discussion or argument. It's how people identify you and describe you. If you have no style, or at least you think you don’t, look to what inspires you and you can gain a pretty clear idea (or at least start). What attracts you? What excites you? Does everyone have style? Mmmm I’m not sure about that. But, what I’ve noticed, especially in my time spent in Paris, is that women, all women. Working women, business women, women who lunch, they all express their femininity, or their style in one way or another. I picked up on this and looked at my own style.

What’s my style? Confidence, loyalty, high-low fashion and a mean walk no matter where I am. What do you think constitutes style? Since it’s such a vague concept (to me) that goes beyond fashion, I am searching and interested in other opinions. Please, and I mean sincerely share with me your thoughts.

[other1kchad]

JOURNEY TO NOW [FASHION IS CALLING]

Homeschooled since 2nd grade until...well very recently. I knew my “thing” was academia. I excelled in school. I graduated high school/community college at the same time and all I knew was books. I got lost in music-creatives like Lady Gaga, Prince, Queen and the greats, thanks to my mother who knows everything about anything to do with music. I could say she introduced me to fashion. She told me the gossip about the supermodels of her time and their lives. And loving the same about books, my new fascination was magazines. It began with models. They were so mysterious to me, but figures of perfection and beauty. So I became lost in a new education, a new form of literature and that was magazines. But it was just a fascination, just an interest but even then I think I knew there was a small light inside of me that wanted that. Being a lonely high school student all I thought was that I wanted to be famous. A vague idea that needed cultivation, because it was more than that. 

I think it was the need to be seen for something. Something that was my own. At 17 I transferred as a junior to the University of San Francisco. College is promising, it promises you to find yourself. I did. I found that I loved to study Theology and Religion. After that, after graduation, I graduated a year early and all my school friends, my new family were still in undergrad. So I enrolled in the Graduate MFT program to stick around. And I loved it, but I was using it as a catalyst to deal with inner demons that ended up consuming me and led me to my demise. I didn’t think I would make it out alive but after 2 almost three years I was back on my feet. 

I had an old friend, an old flame who hurt me. Its a hurt that you will never forget but still find myself praising from time to time. He was a fashion student and I would help him on shoots. And I loved it, but it still wasn’t clicking for me just yet. It wouldn’t until a couple of years later. I’m surrounded by about 200 magazines, and all I follow besides a few friends on Instagram are fashion magazines, stylists, models and the like. I look at the Academy of Art website and I think, “let’s try it.” Because I’m young and I would regret it if I didn’t and what’s the worst that could happen? I don’t get in and that’s not so bad. I did get in. And now I’m halfway done in a major in Fashion Journalism and picked up another in Fashion Art Direction. How I got there is another story. 

But even after three semesters in Fashion Journalism, I still had that itch, that this wasn’t it for me. My “calling” came to me when I took a styling class for the first time and my eyes were wide open, and tearful because I didn’t know something could move me that much. I want to combine my written skills, which I know was a gift given to me, with my desire to be hands on and in control of styling, photography, hair and make up. I want to call the shots and for so long in my life I felt I was being controlled by a mental situation and I’ve finally found a way to take that situation and put it to good use. When you find your calling you have to answer it. And it may start when you are in middle school or high school like it did for me but it was well worth the wait because with all my being I know this is where its at for me.

[BELOW] First shoot I’ve ever done. To be honest, I worked with a group of two other stylists that didn’t fully grasp the assn. but the experience taught me a great deal  and the model was gorgeous. what more can you ask for. it was after this my professor had explained to me that she saw a real talent in my that she wanted to cultivate and I was sold.

[other1kchad]

RISK TAKERS: MARGIELA

who are the new risk takers in fashion? the mature ones that come to mind are Gaultier, Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and those are just the immediate legacies that come to mind. But who is it now that is shocking, that is riveting? I believe fashion, true fashion should make you feel above all else. feel what? well when I watched Valentino’s SS ‘19 show I felt emotional. It was beautiful and one felt tearful. It was the feeling of hope and everyone sensed it. The draping and the colors and not to mention the striking color against the multitude of models of color. It felt fresh and renewed. 

Then we have Margiela. Oh M, making us think about the construction of a garment. No surprise because he studied from the same institute that some of the famed Antwerp 6 studied at. Yes I’m talking Demeulemeester and yes I’m talking Dries. His reinvention and deconstruction can be attributed to yet another risk taker in fashion, Gaultier, because he began by studying under his tutelage. Margiela’s style soon became known for his grunge and unfinished looks that made a statement in the industry. Perhaps what draws me most to Margiela is the master or the anonymous factor to the brand. He denies photographs and interviews even though after two decades he hasn’t been attached to his own label but rather a design team that creates in his name. He left the label in ‘14 and didn’t assign a creative director until...Galliano. A bit surprising but not so, since Galliano for a while was blacklisted since an unfortunate drunken anti-semitic incident while he was at Dior. Its fitting, seeing as what we know about the alternative, de-constructed nature of Margiela’s clothing. Its ‘haute couture’ (since 2012). And aren’t we thankful to Galliano for employing choreographers such as Pat Boguslawski for giving us these infamous Leon Dame walks down the runway. The evolution of Maison Martin Margiela has the three components that make the brand timeless and stand the text of time: intrigue, anonymity and electricity.