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Parfums de Marly: Carlisle

Carlisle. A regal and noble name, fitting for such an opulent fragrance. This is my favourite from all my collection, not just because of the quality of the juice but also because it was a gift from someone incredibly special to me. Carlisle is a Parfums de Marly creation, the best of their offering in my opinion, although many swear by favourites like Herod and Layton. Here we have some of the smoothest gourmand I’ve ever smelt and a rich and unapologetic apple accord. There’s a lot more going on in the ensemble but really they’re all supporting casts to the main notes. Amplifiers. Its an enveloping gourmand, consistent in all aspects and just an absolute pleasure for the olfactory senses. Its strong, confident, reliable but still measured in its approach. Its longevity is superb and projection appropriate. Notice I didn’t scale or bluntly describe those two performance aspects. That’s because its as noble as you’d expect a “Carlisle” to be. Succinctly, its a masterpiece. Notes: Nutmeg, Green Apple, Tonka Bean, Rose, Patchouli, Vanilla.

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Long time, no smell

It’s been a while since I’ve been on here. I seriously miss the prime Tumblr days.  The theory was simple, yet brilliant. Still, a lot has happened since my last post. Besides the general seasonality of life, there has been some change in my approach to fragrance, my perspective and overall source of influence. My collection has grown with very few departures and considerably more arrivals. 

In what I would coin a “new chapter” of my fragrance journey, I will explore my love for fragrance with more synchronicity with my day to day. As much as I would enjoy raving and reflecting on ever aroma I encounter, I will henceforth focus on scents I experience in the moment, evoking feeling and compelling me to elaborate on its appeal. My thoughts should be more concise as I've honed my writing skills and can more accurately express how each fragrance makes me feel. My written visual renditions should also improve as I’ve enjoyed more time with these scents and notes. I dunno, you tell me. Either way, I hope you enjoy the resumption and continuation of this journey.  

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Al Haramain: Oudh 36 Nuit

Agarwood-Rose exquisiteness. Highly acclaimed by Fragcomm, I purchased this purely off community recommendation and it turned out to be a fantastic blind buy. A winter hitman bearing a rose bouquet. 

Al Haramain is a top tier Middle Eastern perfume house with an extensive offering which includes this gem alongside its sibling Oudh 36 and the delightful Neroli Canvas. The subject here, Oudh 36 Nuit, is a fantastic tribute to the beauty of perfecting the Rose and Oudh (not Oud) combination. It's powerful, yet still undeniably elegant. It's soft but commanding. Brut but gentle. And to add to that, it's surprisingly very affordable. Likened to Christian Dior’s Oud Ispahan, I feel this has better symphony with the Rose which lingers throughout the performance in a very balanced way. The silage and projection are so divine, I'm confident it deserves a permanent place in your collection as it does in mine. 

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Molinard: Patchouli

All aboard the Molinard Express! Next stop is “Patchouli”. So impressed by (Patchouli Intense) that I dug back into the brand, and with the help of Fragcomm I emerged with the elegantly rugged “Patchouli”. 

As you have come to know, Molinard is painfully blunt in their description. This is nothing but Patchouli.. but its also something completely different. Starting off incredibly harsh in the opening and sure to catch the uninformed off guard, the first few application weren’t pleasant to be honest. I had heard from the many whispers that this was a very earthy and raw patchouli, more so than its noble senior (Patchouli Intense). Don’t panic, and definitely HANG IN THERE. 

Patchouli is the most transformative fragrance I have owned, going from the deep end of the spectrum to the other in a matter of hours. It matures to a soulful and comforting vanilla-amber-patchouli trio that just tantalises the senses. For a winter scent, its Projection and silage do decline overtime, but its still absolutely worth it (and underpriced). Its exceptional and an embodiment of the phrase “ the best is yet to come”. Welcome to my collection, Patchouli. 

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Molinard: Patchouli Intense

Spicy woody-gourmand heaven. Molinard is quickly becoming one of my favourite new scent house’ with their incredibly well executed and focused offerings. I’m not even sure what is more impressive, the criminally low price points or the quality of their fragrances. 

Patchouli Intense is an open book. Its exactly what it says on the lid (a feature I have discovered is common with Molinard and something I have come to adore them for). Put simply it is raw, yet refined patchouli cranked up to MAX and coated in sweet, vanilla cinnamon-ly gourmand. It is a very unique offering, with extraordinary silage and projection considering the price.  I would only wear this in winter however, as the opening and the mid-range can be very overpowering (Particularly the opening, as with most Molinard’s I’ve come across). At risk of repeating myself, it is really a stunning item and one I can see myself tied to for some time at these prices. Categorically a STEAL. 

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Penhaligon’s: Portraits - Roaring Radcliff

A rum and gingerbread party! A respectable member of the Penhaligon’s colourful and vibrant “Portraits” line, Roaring Radcliff is the perfect blend of sweet and spicy, clean and dirty. The rum is this is intoxicating, and with the merger of the gingerbread, this becomes an otherworldly experience. The most notable trait for me is the smoothness in the delivery all through its cycle, from opening to close. The notes fade gracefully and every layer is complimentary to its predecessor. My first Penhaligon, and most certainly not the last from this incredible British house. 

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Mancera: Cedrat Boise

This was a blind buy I made without knowing a single thing about Mancera prior to purchase. I conducted what was at best 30 minutes of shallow research and next thing Royal Mail are at the door. 

Mancera is a bridge house, offering a glimpse to the niche world of fragrance. Superior (only slightly) to most designer offerings, Mancera is known for producing a very versatile range of fragrances, some of which is extremely unique and considerable quality. Cedrat Boise is possibly their most famous offering, having been dubbed a Creed Aventus clone. It is a deep citrus ensemble, with some spiciness in the opening and a closing. Longevity is average, but nothing surprising for its note class. A winner for the workplace.  

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian: Masculin Pluriel

I have never really ever been a traditional cologne lover. The only recent cologne based scents I loved but never got were Bois D’argent and Balade Sauvage by Christian Dior. Even still, I feel like I forced myself into liking those simply because I felt I needed a cologne link to take myself seriously as a fragrance enthusiast. Masculin Pluriel however is the complete opposite. Finally finding a fresh citrus scent, floral free and long-lasting, then having the added bonus of coming from one of your favourite perfumers was just too good to be true! 

Masculin Pluriel is a modern cologne masterpiece. It is every bit as fresh, clean, sharp and zingy as any good smelling cologne out there. What distinguishes MP is its instantly noticeably depth and the seething smoothness that you get in every Kurkdjian creation. I am fanboying harddd but honestly for someone who despised the aftershave stench of cologne, this was such a breath of fresh air! I get fantastic performance and good projection from this. The skin chemistry for me it my favourite quality, especially when the sun is peaked. My signature cologne. 

Notes: Lavender, Cedar, Patchouli, Vetiver and Leather 

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Hermes: Terre D’Hermes Vétiver

The Classic reborn! I’ve seen a lot of mixed reviews on this and I can’t imagine why. It’s a great addition to the line and in my opinion a fantastic evolution to the scent. I suspect the only ones making a fuss as the old heads who simply despise change to anything that sprung in their era, “These damn millennials” 

The vetiver is a fantastic inclusion that is well blended with the existing notes, adding a hint of soft spice to the scent, sweetening its presence ever so slightly. In the dry down it emerges into a mysterious spice floral combo that carries relatively well on my skin. I would consider this a longer lasting daytime fragrance with modest projection. If you have previously enjoyed the classic, I think you would be intrigued and would approve of the iteration. 

Notes: Vetiver, Bergamot, Lemon, Amberwood, Patchouli, Olibanum, Geranium, Sichuan Pepper

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Carlina Herrera: Herrera Tuberose 

Discovered this on one of my fragrance hunts and I thoroughly admired the smell. I have now come to realise I have a soft spot for the note and that its a frequent culprit in many of my treasured scents. The connection was henceforth unsurprising. I sprayed so much of this stuff that the attendant had to chase me away by giving me a mini tester. 

It's a soft and summery scent, heavily represented by tuberose but with subtle woody accords. Some will argue its more feminine but I could see this pulled off  on a warm, sunny summer day by an absolute gentleman. You certainly would get you compliments. However, at £230 for a 100ml bottle (£2.30/ml) its no where economically worth it for a soft scent. No matter how much I like the smell. If I source it at a 50% discount, then we would be in business. 

Notes: Orange Blossom, Tuberose, Vanilla

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Arabian Oud: Tarteel Gold

My girlfriend got this as a gift for me on Valentine’s day and safe to say she knows the key to my heart. The packaging and presentation is probably the best I have seen on any fragrance I have owned. Upon receipt I was like “Wow” and immediately I pondered if the juice inside could ever live up its the entrance - it definitely does!

I am a big fan of oud, and especially interpretations that come from middle eastern houses given they source and work primarily with the note. This is a luxurious and pampering take on oud, with a unique sweetness and smokiness that I take as different to the signature of traditional Agarwood (Oud). Its refined and upscale. A definite head turner and easily multi seasonal. Besides the original Kalemat Black, the is the second best offering from Arabain Oud in my opinion. A winner!

Notes: Bergamot, Saffron, Lemon, Rose, Cinnamon, Orange Blossom, Vanilla, Oud, Musk, Patchouli, Ambergris

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Paco Rabanne: Ultrared Man

Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! Ladies and Gentlemen, this is a moment. Very rarely do you have a scent that completely transcends time and space, transporting you back in time in an experience so surreal you begin to contemplate reality. This is Ultrared man for me. The absolute. The One. Summertime eternal. 

I got my first bottle in 2008. I absolutely loved it, but not as much as the 100,000 girls that wouldn't stop hugging me that year (true story, I counted). As a young man who just wanted to “smell nice”, I didn't even stop once to appreciate the beauty I had in my possession. I never explored their curiosity. I never asked “why?” they reacted this way. 

Its hard to explain, but make no mistake this was a heavily sentimental and emotional buy. It makes me happy AND brings me to back to happier and simpler times. Don’t let that fool you though, this is a full blown, blood orange packed masterpiece that lifts every single anatomical sense. The gourmand is almost edible. Smelling is believing, and in this case you just have to take my word for it. Those who have come across it would echo my take. One the biggest disappointments is that Paco never saw the beauty in this and tried to recreate it. Perhaps, maybe he did. Maybe he understood that some things just can’t be recreated. If that is the case, I respect him for being a smarter man than I am. 

Notes: Blood Orange, Tonka Bean, Praline, Patchouli, Vanilla. 

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Christian Dior: Thé Cachemire

I am pleased to announce I have found my summer romance! This has been a long time coming. I plotted, I schemed, and when the time was right I executed. It wasn't an easy choice in any sense. You very much could have been reading about its very worthy adversary, Terra Bella, from the same legendary Francois Demachy. Cachemire had an unmatched smoothness I just couldn’t overlook. It smells and feels as its named. A truly remarkable scent.

Picture this: Waves, seagulls and the ocean winds. Sounds harmoniously blending, radiant warmth from the midday sun filters through the straw cabana and through the linen on your skin. Purple skies, courtesy of the tint from your sunglasses and the smell of fresh lemon passing through the gas bubbles escaping your gin and tonic in hand. A blissful experience. 

Notes: Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Lemon, Petitgrain, Rose, White Tea, Honeysuckle, Magnolia, Musk, Orris. 

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Sospiro: Erba Pura

Purchased a 10ml tester a few weeks ago, and ever since I’ve felt like a florist has been chasing me with a bouquet. Many have referred to it as a “flower bomb” and honestly its accurate.

I’m a big fan of seasonal rotation, and as much as I appreciate what this is trying to do, I just feel the florals are too soft for a brother like me. It is a drama queen fragrance and an attention seeker with impressive performance. I would 95% purchase this for my girlfriend. My only fear is the florist chasing her every moment after that might give me a run for my money.

Notes: Orange, Lemon, Bergamot, Amber, White Musk, Madagascan Vanilla. 

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Van Cleef & Arpels: Bois Dore

My second purchase from this house, a second addition from the “Collection Extraordinaire” from Van Cleef & Arpels. On a day where I smelt some seriously incredible perfumes from new season ranges, this stood out, whilst not doing so at all. Perched in a blackout bottle, I wasn’t even remotely drawn to it. I caught the tonka bean when an attendant sprayed it onto a card for another customer. My next word were “WHAT. WAS. THAT”.

Disclaimer. Bois Dore is revolutionary. It isn’t even that unique. What it is, in the words of Vision from Marvel’s Cinematic Universe is “Terribly well balanced”. This is the case with every single offering from the Collection Extraordinaire range. You may disagree with some notes in individual variants, but wheat cannot be disputed is their harmonic coexistence and delivery. I need something sweet with depth, an enforced for when the softer juices just need some reinforcements.

Notes: Black Pepper, Vanilla, Tobacco, Almond, Tonka Bean, Musk, Teak Wood.

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Van Cleef & Arpels: Precious Oud

A new addition to the collection and the beginning of the bow towards to warmer months (I say with the thermostat reading 1 degree). Here we have an honorary member of the 6 piece “Collection Extraordinaire” from Van Cleef & Arpels. Finely crafted scents, driven primarily from foundational base notes (Patchouli and Oud in this case)

Picture this: A sea of brown, orange and green leaves scattered along the path  on a crisp spring morning. The sun, constantly re-emerging from the clouds, hits the side of your face providing a source of inner warmth. Its savoury comfort. 

Notes: Oud, Patchouli, Vetiver, Jasmine, Tuberose, Bergamot, Black Pepper

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Archive: Oud 24 Hours

“Imposter! a beautiful Imposter!” they said. I say, it's all a matter of perception. Often touted as the “Black Orchid Killer”, Oud 24 is quite literally the cheapest perfume I have ever bought. That is, less than takeout cheap. It's absolutely ridiculous. Its absolutely wonderful, because each time I spray this on I can’t help but smile. 

Fruity, sweet and remarkably memorable, it's a frustrating experience dealing with Oud 24. It's probably the weakest scent I know with a longevity score of 1/10. Whatever is in it just can’t stand the effect of time. 

My verdict? ABSOLUTE YES. Even if its gone in an hour or two, its a fantastic addition to the roster of any perfume enthusiast. It cost nothing, and more importantly it smells GREAT.